Detecting and Fixing RV Roof Leaks

It is fall and in most places rain is on the way or has already arrived.  You want to be sure your RV or camper roof is waterproof and safe.   If you have or even suspect you may have any leaks be sure to cover your unit with a suitable tarp until you can repair the leak.

Leaking roofs can lead to extensive cosmetic and structural damage that can be very difficult and expensive to repair.  If you can catch a leak early you can usually take care of it and avoid the long term consequences.  Leaks can be caused by several different problems.  Impact damage from falling objects like tree limbs and hail is usually easy to find and can often be successfully patched without too much trouble, depending on the type of roofing material and the extent of the damage.  Leaking seams or other failures in the roofing material from aging and/or weather can be harder to locate but are also very common.  Leaking seams can be caulked or sealed; worn out roofing must be replaced.  Another frequent source of leaks is around fixtures on the roof:  roof vents, antennas, roof racks, and air conditioners.  These can usually be taken care of by re-caulking but sometimes they must have the fasteners tightened or be removed and re-bedded to cure the leak.  Re-bedding usually means replacing the butyl tape between the object the the roof.  Roof A/C units may need to be removed and the gasket replaced to cure leaks around them.

The first step is detecting a leak.  That sounds like it should be pretty straightforward, but RV roof leaks can often be very sneaky and the only signs may show up far from the source of the leak.  Water will always choose the path of least resistance.  Roof leaks may be the cause of wet or soggy floors and moldy walls.  A leak in the roof may be completely contained by the ceiling and show up as streaks down the wall or puddles on the floor a long way from where the water is entering the roof.  Sometimes the only noticeable symptom of a roof leak is a persistent foul smell caused by mold and mildew somewhere behind walls or ceilings.  Excessive condensation may also be a clue that you have a leak somewhere that is allowing an unusual amount of water into the vehicle.  Of course, some condensation is normal, especially in damp climates but if you begin to see a lot more than you normally see, you might suspect a leak somewhere.  Some leaks are obvious, with water dripping from A/C panels or light fixtures every time it rains or you wash your rig.  Some show up as damp or discolored patches on the ceiling or along seams.  Streaks on the walls anywhere except below windows are an indication of a roof leak (streaks under windows can be caused by leaky windows).  Sometimes you can do some tests to help locate where the water is coming it by watering the roof with a hose while someone watches inside.  Take it slow, because it can take some time for water to make its way from where it enters through roof or seam damage to reach the site where it becomes visible on the interior.  I have seen people try to use colored water to trace leaks but be aware any coloring the water may stain interior surfaces so use this technique very cautiously.  You might want to test the colored water on an out of sight portion of  surfaces where it might show up before you start.  Even though you might be able to clean a surface from a short test, long term exposure from a test soaking through from the roof may cause permanent stains that are difficult or impossible to remove.

Leaking roofs often stain the ceiling.  Sometimes you can remove the stains with household cleaners but really bad stains may require painting or refinishing.  When repainting you will want to apply Kilz as a primer to seal the stains so they don't show through the finish coat.  If the surface is damaged too badly for paint you might be able to install a new ceiling panel.  The first choice would be to match the original panel.  If that isn't possible pre-finished plywood paneling or FRP are good choices.  FRP will be easier to clean.  You will probably have to remove any light fixtures, vents, or antennas in the area to be replaced and remove all the moldings where the ceiling meets the walls or cabinets.  Take care removing the moldings so they can be reused.  If the moldings are damaged you may need to install new ones along with the new panels.  It is a good idea to number the moldings and where they go to make it easier to reinstall them.  You can either install a new panel over the old one or remove the old ceiling panel and replace it.  Removing the old one reduces weight and gets rid of any old, rotten, smelly material that might cause problems in the future.  It also lets you examine beneath the paneling to determine if there is any additional damage you need to address.

The most common source of RV roof leaks are seams, either along the edges where the roof meets the wall or between sections of the roof.  These seams are usually protected by caulk, but caulk does dry out had should be replaced every year or two.  The next most common problem occurs around fixtures that penetrate the roof, such as A/Cs, vents, lights, antennas, and roof racks.  Most of these problems can be solved by removing the old caulk, cleaning the surfaces, and applying a generous coating of new caulk.  As an alternative to regular caulking you might consider having the entire roof sealed.  I did that with one of my motorhomes.  The company guaranteed no leaks for 10 years and the projected life of the roof sealant was more like 20 years.  I had the motorhome for many years (lost track of exactly how many) and never had any problems.  The coating is one that is used on commercial buildings.  It is white so it helps keep things cooler in summer.  It can be rolled, sprayed, painted, or even dumped on and spread around.  You can do it yourself but the effort it takes to properly clean the roof can be time consuming and having the guarantee may well be worth the cost of having the company do the installation.  Besides that, being roofing experts, they will be able to better detect and correct any defects that might cause future problems.  I believe the company I used was Minnesota Roofing Company, who came to southern California to do RV roofs in the winter when weather in Minnesota wasn't conducive to many roofing jobs.  They would also sell the material for you to do it yourself if you want to do that.

When you find a roof leak, check the surrounding area for soft spots that would indicate dry rot or other structural damage.  You may have to at least partially remove some part of the roofing and maybe the ceiling to effect appropriate repairs.  Look for damage to the roof panels, ceiling panels, and any supporting infrastructure.  Just fixing the leak and leaving the damage is a recipe for more problems. Damage can often occur far from the leak.  A leaking A/C seal on my motorcycle trailer resulted in a rotted out roof panel several feet away where the water pooled around a roof A/C and eventually made its way past the aging seals.   Rotted out roofing panels have to be removed and replaced.  That can be a really big job, especially if the underlying structural support is damaged or if there are interior cabinets that might be affected by the repair.  When replacing RV roof panels, match the paneling as closely as possible to the thickness and rating of the original panel.  Then cover it with a matching roofing material.  Most RV roofing panels are made of exterior plywood that is pretty easy to match up.

RV Roof A/Cs are sometimes the source of leaks because of gasket failure, even if the visible signs of leakage are some distance away from the A/C.  The gaskets are relatively inexpensive and not too difficult to replace.  If you start seeing moisture or discoloration on the ceiling around your A/C it is probably time to replace the gasket.  Early replacement can prevent additional damage that can be costly to repair.  Almost RV roof air conditioners fit a 14"x14" opening in the roof and most, but not all, use a universal 14"x14" gasket.  Be sure to disassemble the unit far enough to measure the old gasket before ordering a new one.  I recently had to work on a 20+ year old unit that needed a non-standard gasket.  Amy in our local RV store (Gary's RV Store in Springfield, Oregon) spent a lot of time and effort attempting to help us find the right gasket.  She eventually sent us to her supplier, Airxcel, manufacturers of Coleman Mach Series and Maxxair air conditioners.  Their customer service was very quick to respond and helped us find the right gasket.

Another cause of leaks around roof A/Cs is sagging.  Roof A/C units are fairly heavy and if the roof was not properly structured to support the weight sagging will result.  This causes any water that falls on the roof to pool around the A/C and the sagging often compromises the gasket seal between the A/C unit and the roof.  If the roof has sagged you will need to upgrade the structural supports to restore it to level and properly support the weight of the A/C.    Be sure to remove all damaged supports and replace them with securely anchored new material.  Unless you have reasonably good carpentery skills and the proper tools this is probably best left to professionals.

If your roof is structurally sound you probably only need to replace the gasket.   Over time gaskets, which are under pressure from the weight of the unit and from tightened fasteners, get compressed to otherwise begin to deteriorate resulting in leaks.  If you have a manual for the A/C follow the manufacturer's instructions to remove the A/C and replace the gasket.  Lacking a manual, you will first need to remove the interior shroud.  Doing so might allow you to confirm if the unit is leaking.  If you decide to replace the gasket you will need to locate the fasteners (bolts or screws) that secure the interior base plate to the bottom of the A/C.  You will probably have to unplug wiring too.  Then lift or tilt the A/C up out of the way.  The old gasket should be stuck to the base of the A/C.  Remove the old gasket and any residue completely and carefully clean the mounting surface before installing the new gasket.  You can usually scrape the old gasket off with a putty knife and clean the residual adhesive with solvent.  Take care not to spill solvent on rubber roofs!  While the roof where it sits is exposed use a level or straightedge to determine if the mounting platform has sagged.  If there are any low spots you will need to correct the structural defects before proceeding.  Then attach the new gasket to the bottom of the unit and lower the A/C back into place and reinstall the base plate on the inside to snug it down and secure it to the roof.  Plug in the wiring and reinstall the interior shroud.   Be sure to carefully inspect the roof and supporting structure and make any necessary repairs before reinstalling the A/C.

The use of caulk, silicone, or liquid sealers along with the A/C gasket is not recommended.  The gasket is designed to compress and form a tight seal.  Any added sealers may interfere with its normal function and sometimes may actually damage and destroy the integrity of the gasket.

A few RVs have a domed roof that helps keep water from accumulating under A/C units, but most have flat roofs.   If yours has a flat roof and water tends to puddle around the A/C you might be able to build up a little platform around the opening to help it shed water.  This would be easiest to do if you were removing and replacing the roofing but you might be able to do it without removing the roofing if you have good finish carpentery or cabinet making skills to make the shims necessary.  The shims should create a flat, level platform at that extends outside the roof opening far enough to support the entire A/C gasket.  Then you will need tapered shims from the flat platform extending a few inches to support the roofing.  Making and installing those tapered shims could be a bit of a challenge unless you have the right wood working skills.  The mitered corners will have to taper in two or even three dimensions!

Most roof A/Cs are designed to fit a standard 14 x 14 roof opening.  Make sure you know the size of the old gasket before purchasing a replacement gasket.  Standard gaskets sell for around $30 or less; premium gaskets can cost over $50.  However, given the high value of many RVs and the high cost of repairing water damage it may be a good idea to opt for the premium gasket if you have the budget for it and plan to keep the RV for any significant length of time, but I have seen standard gaskets work perfectly well for 20 years or more.    I had to replace the gasket on a very old unit that needed a gasket that was about 15"x 151/2" inside dimensions and with shipping it cost over $90!  NEVER attempt to replace or repair a leaking gasket using caulk or silicone sealer.  It might work for a little while but you can be sure it will fail a lot sooner than making a proper repair by replacing the gasket with the correct one.  The solvents in some sealing compounds could damage the gasket causing even more problems.

Prevention is always better than repair!   Many roof problems can be prevented by proper preventative measures.  Regular inspections for deteriorating caulk or damage can help you seal seams or repair holes BEFORE they start to leak.  Avoid loading heavy or sharp objects onto an RV roof and make sure you have sufficient clearance before driving under trees where low-hanging branches might damage the roof.  Be careful when walking on an RV roof and make sure there is no sharp debris caught in the tread on the soles of your shoes.  Standard seam caulking should be inspected frequently and typical maintenance schedules call for stripping it off and redoing it about once a year.  Some roof coatings, such as those supplied by Minnesota Roofing, may reduce the need for frequent caulking.  When inspecting the caulking be sure to examine all the seams (including those where the roof on some RVs wraps down over the side wall) and around all vents, antennas, etc, that project through the roof.

Dry up!

Chain Saws For Campers

Chain saws are essential for off-grid living and very useful for homeowners with lots of trees on their property.  Because of their size and their cost they aren't always adopted by RVers and campers.  Campers traditionally rely simple bow saws or foldable saws because they are small and inexpensive.  So-called cable saws are very small and easy to transport and pretty easy to use, but they can take a lot of time and effort to cut through larger pieces of wood.   Manual saws (like bow saws or buck saws) have a been a staple for campers for decades.  They are quiet and reliable but take up a lot of room and take a lot of effort to use.  But, with new, quiet, lightweight cordless chain saws that might be changing. Small, handheld cordless chain saws are available with blades up to 6" that might be handy for campers and RVers.

Chain saws are handy tools for cutting firewood for camping.  These days you can choose from gasoline powered, electric powered, and cordless models.   I even have an older 12-volt model that runs off a car battery.   A good chain saw with a sharp chain can make short work of cutting logs into firewood.  If you camp where you legally gather firewood a chain saw might be a useful addition to your camp kit or RV.

The most popular and most powerful chain saws are gasoline powered.  They normally have a 2-stroke engine that requires oil to be mixed with the gasoline.  Running unmixed gas in a 2-stroke engine will result in catastrophic engine failure as 2-strokes rely on the oil in the gasoline to lubricate the engine.   Be sure to use the prescribed ratio.  A mixture that is too rich (too much oil) will foul the spark plug and one that is too lean (too little oil) will cause excessive wear or even cause the engine to seize.  Every engine has a prescribed fuel:oil ratio.  The typical ratio for many chain saws is 50:1 (50 parts gasoline for 1 part oil).  You can calculate how much oil you  need to add to your gas can or use a device like a Ratio-rite that is calibrated to measure the amount of oil for several common ratios and common gas can sizes.  There are often special, richer "break in"ratios needed for new engines.  Running the standard ratio during break in may result in engine damage.  Running the break in ratio beyond the break in period can result in fouling spark plugs and excess smoke so be sure to use the break in ratio for the break in period and only the break in period.  Gasoline powered chain saws come in many sizes.  The larger sizes are quiet heavy.  All gasoline chain saws are noisy.  You will want to wear ear protection when using them, especially for extended periods of time.

Electrical chain saws are handy for small tasks like cutting firewood but you need a long extension cord of adequate gauge and a source of 120 VAC power.  Using too small a gauge extension cord can cause a number of problems, including reduced performance, shortening motor life, blown fuses or circuit breakers, and even overheating and melting the cord and possible fires.  Most RV generators and many portable generators provide more than adequate power to run an electric chain saw.  You may even be able run one on a portable inverter attached to a 12 volt battery.

Cordless chain saws are a fairly recent addition to the market.  Cordless chain saws are particularly convenient for RVers and campers.  They are generally lighter than gasoline saws, much quieter, and do not require cumbersome electrical cords or an immediate 120 V power source during operation.  You do need a 120 V power source to recharge the batteries but not during normal operation.  If you opt for a cordless chain saw you may want to purchase extra batteries so you always have enough charged batteries available to last until you can recharge them.  A solar powered battery charger may allow you to conveniently, quietly, and inexpensively recharge your batteries whenever you have sunlight.  Or just make sure to put the batteries on the charger and run your RV generator for a while after each use.  

The recent addition of small, one-handed, cordless chain saws gives RVers and campers even greater convenience and flexibility.  They usually aren't big or tough enough to cut logs, but can be useful for trimming firewood to fit your needs and are getting inexpensive enough and small enough to make it worthwhile for camping.  The one I bought included three 4"chains, 2 extra bars, 2 batteries and a charger, and even gloves and safety glasses, all in a convenient plastic case that will easily fit in just about any storage cabinet on an RV or camper.  It is not much bigger than a kids metal lunch box.  It was on sale at Christmas for under $50 on Amazon.com.  Regular prices start around $55.  Be sure to check the sizes.  For example some have 4" blades, some have 6" blades.  Finally got a chance to try mine out and was very pleased.  The 4" blade isn't going to handle big logs but it sure made trimming branches up to 2-4" or so fast and easy!  It doesn't have a chain oiler so I would be concerned about using it continuously for long periods without oiling it or letting the chain cool down.  It has quickly become my favorite yard trimming tool.

I have an older 12-volt chain saw that runs off a car battery that I carry in my RV but they are not easy to find these days.  Quite frankly, the one I have, which I bought at a garage sale many years ago, is the only one I've ever actually seen!  I did locate new ones online called a Minibrute that is similar to the one I have.  The only downside is you need to be fairly close to your vehicle (about 10-12') or drag a heavy 12-volt battery pack or portable generator with you to your work site.

Chain saws, like any power tool, require proper training for safe usage.   In fact, chain saws really need a lot more training than other common homeowner power tools.  To  use a chain saw on U.S. Forest Service lands you even have to pass a training and certification requirement.  Most, but not all, chain saw injuries are the result of user error and are preventable.    Here is a basic introductory training video.  In this video they will stress the importance of getting hands-on instruction from a qualified  instructor.  If you watch the video all the way through it should go into a second video that offers instruction on how to cut trees if you are interested in doing that.  You may even be required to be certified to operate a chain saw in many state and Federal forests if you plan to cut your own firewood for camping.

Modern chain saws include a chain brake.  It looks like second handle in front of the handle on the motor and is designed to stop the chain if your hand hits it (like it does if the saw hits something and bucks).  The brake is pushed toward the back of the saw to use the saw and brakes the chain when pushed forward.  If the saw bucks it kicks back toward you and your hand or wrist usually pushes the brake forward and activates it to stop the chain.  The brake often needs to be in the off position to start the saw.  Some older saws do not have chain brakes.  If for some reason you happen to have one of these older saws, be especially careful when operating it as the chain brake on modern units is a significant safety feature.  Never remove or disable any safety device!

Personal Protection Equipment (PPE) is essential for safe operation.  Minimum equipment would include sturdy work gloves and eye protection (safety goggles or face shield).  I like goggles with a fine mesh screen for cold weather use because they won't fog up.   Hard hats are suggested to protect your head from flying wood tossed by the saw if it jams or if you are trimming trees to prevent injury if a falling limb or piece of wood kicked up by the saw lands your head.  Hearing protection is also highly recommended, especially for gasoline powered models and particularly if you are going to be doing a lot of cutting.  Special chainsaw chaps are more than a good idea, they should be considered essential!  They are designed to stop the chain quickly to prevent serious injury to your legs.  Note that chaps will usually stop gasoline engines, but electric motors will continue to run as long as they have power and the switch is on, even if the chain is inhibited by the chaps.  Regular pants, even  Levis and sturdy off-road riding pants will not prevent chain saw injuries.  Not even our ultra-heavy firefighter turn-out pants will protect against a chainsaw and we are always required to wear chaps when using a chain saw in the fire service.

Ensuring your work area is safe and clear of people or hazards is critical.    The area should be free of branches or debris that would interfere with safe operation.  Be sure to check overhead as well as all around your work area.   One good way to ensure a clear area is to take a stick about the length of our chainsaw and swing it all around and over head.  If it doesn't hit anything, you should be clear.  If it does hit something you either need to clear the obstacle or find another place to do your cutting.  Even if there is nothing directly in the way of what you are cutting you need to make sure the area around you is clear.  If the saw jams and bucks it is likely to swing anywhere within reach, injuring or damagig anyone or anything it comes in contact with and possible bouncing back to injure you!  When cutting firewood you will want to have some kind of base beneath the log your are cutting.  You NEVER want to let the chain cut into the ground.  It will dull the saw almost instantly.  Chains are designed to cut wood, not dirt!

A sharp chain is essential to both ease of operation and safety.   A dull chain will make you work harder and is more likely to bind or kickback which often results in injuries.  If you see smoke coming from where you are cutting, you need to sharpen your chain!  If there are burned or scorched marks in the cut, you need to sharpen your chain!  Eventually a dull chain could even start a fire!  A dull chain also places more load on the motor accelerating wear and shortening usable life.

Gasoline powered chain saws are very noisy.   You should always wear ear protection when using them, especially if you are going to be using them for any length of time.  You also need to be aware of the impact the noise may have on fellow campers and restrict your usage to times of the day and locations  that will minimize any impact on other people.

Safe starting of gasoline chain saws.   First, make sure the area around you is safe, free from obstacles that might interfere and people who might be injured.  People should always be at least 10-15 feet away when you start the saw in case the chain catches on something and kicks back.  You may see loggers starting a chain saw using a drop method where they hold the handle of the starting rope and drop the saw to start it.  This it NOT an approved method.  Two safe ways to start a saw are to hold the back end of the saw securely between your knees while pulling the rope or to set the saw on the ground and put the toe of one boot into the handle beneath the trigger while yanking the rope.  No matter which method you use ALWAYS set the chain brake off before attempting to start the saw.  Most saws have a 2-step choke.  Typically you will push the choke all the way down and pull the rope until the engine pops, then move the choke to the center position and start the saw. Once it is running, open the choke fully.  Some saws (especially larger ones)  have a compression release button.  Pressing this button before attempting to start the saw is essential since high-compression engines will be too hard to turn over to start under full compression.

All chain saws need bar oil.  This is a special grade of oil designed to lubricate the chain.  Old time saws sometimes required you to squeeze the trigger frequently to squirt oil on the chains but modern saws do it automatically.  Fill the oil on the saw every time you fill the gas.  A "tank" of bar oil usually lasts through at least one tank of gas..  Most saws have a visual window where you can see how much oil is remaining so you can top off if necessary before you ruin a chain by running it dry!  Most oil tanks are designed to hold enough oil to last more than the fuel in the fuel tank so refilling the oil each time you fill the fuel should prevent you from running out of oil.  If you are using an electric, cordless, or 12 volt saw, be sure to keep an eye on the oil level or keep track of how much time you've been running the saw and how often you have to refill the oil so you can keep enough oil in the tank at all times.  Running a chain saw without oil is a sure recipe for disaster!  Lack of oil will cause the chain to overheat and to wear more quickly or possibly even bind up.  If you happen to run out of bar oil, in a pinch you might use 10-30 motor oil.  It won't perform as well as specially formulated bar oil and will probably splatter but it will provide some lubrication and reduce possible damage.  For the small, hand-held chain saws that don't have an oiler, dribble a little chain oil on the chain from time to time to prevent excess wear.

You can purchase chain saws at just about any home center, on Amazon.com, and places like Harbor Freight.  Like most power tools for home use they do not require any special licenses to buy them.  However, you should make sure you get proper instruction from an experienced chain saw user or qualified instructor before you try to use your new saw.  They are far more dangerous and require more training and skill for safe operation than typical homeowner power equipment like a cordless drill or circular saw.

Chain through!

Harbor Freight forTools and Supplies for RVers, OHVers, Campers and Boaters

I have mentioned Harbor Freight in a number of posts.  That is not because I receive any sponsorship or compensation from Harbor Freight, it is just because I have some experience with the products involved and have found them to be useful and cost effective and thought my readers might too.  They have lots of hand tools, power tools, garden tools, and other items that are useful to campers -- like tie downs, towing products, tarps, hardware, and even wheels and tires that fit some small tent trailers.  I became really familiar with their products when my wife worked as a rebuyer for their purchasing department.

You can find lots of Youtube videos about Harbor Freight tools.  They will include both positive and negative opinions.  Be sure to consider the background, qualifications, and bias of the reviewer together with both their intended use of the tools and your intended use.  You may need professional quality tools if you use them regularly on your job but less expensive options may be adequate for home or DIY use.

I have found Harbor Freight to be an excellent source for many tools for my RVs, OHVs, boats, and camping as well as for my mechanics and home maintenance tools.   You will sometimes see negative comments about the quality of tools from Harbor Freight.  While it is almost certain that high end name brands like SnapOn, Husky, and Craftsman will most likely last longer in professional use, I have pretty much found Harbor Freight tools to be more than adequate for my do it yourself projects.  The lower cost also allows me to purchase specialty tools that make jobs easier and sometimes allow me to do tasks that I could not otherwise do at all.  It also lets me afford duplicates to create convenient specialized tool kits for my motorcycle trailer, camp kit, RV, and boat.  Harbor Freight also offers a lifetime guarantee on just about all their hand tools.  In more than twenty years of buying and using their tools I have only had to utilize the guarantee a couple of times and both times they were very quick and friendly about replacing the damaged items, no questions asked.

Harbor Freight offers about the biggest selection of tarps I have seen anywhere.   They include light weight blue "poly" tarps, green farm tarps, more heavy duty silver tarps, and even real canvas tarps.  The selection and reasonable pricing always makes them my first stop when I need a tarp.  The normal prices are usually pretty good but keep an eye out for coupons and sales for even better savings.  Of course you an also find really light clear plastic painter's tarps too.

Another pretty complete category of useful items for RVers is the towing section.  You will find hitches, couplers, ball mounts, towing balls, lights, hitch pins, tie downs, safety chains, towing straps, anti-sway bars, tongue jacks, just about everything you need for towing trailers and even hitch-mount racks for carrying additional cargo and mounting winches.

Harbor Freight offers a variety of jacks and jack stands that can be useful, ranging from small bottle jacks to 10-ton floor jacks and tall farm jacks like the ones often used off-road by 4x4 users.

Harbor Freight has a large selection of hand tools -- wrenches, pliers, screw drivers, sockets, ratchets, hammers, clamps, and pry bars.  They also provide a lifetime warranty on almost all of their hand tools.  I have had to use the warranty a couple of times.  One time I twisted a socket completely off of a cross-bar lug wrench trying to remove a stuck lug not on a 3/4 ton off-road truck.  Another time I twisted a T-handle allen wrench until the flat sides were twisted from tip to  handle.  I was impressed with the strength of the plastic handle!  In both cases I was clearly exceeding the normal application but received replacements on the spot without any hassle.

The reviews of Harbor Freight power tools are mixed.  If you look for Harbor Freight on Youtube you will get a variety of videos listing the "10 Best" or "10 worst" Harbor Freight items.  Sometimes they may tell you what to buy or not to buy at Harbor Freight.  Remember, all of these videos are personal opinions of the people who made the videos and they may or may not have their own bias and they may or may not have any real qualifications for evaluating the products.  My own experience has been mostly positive.  I have found things like cordless drills and even cordless impact wrenches to be well worth the modest price.  Did they hold up as long as brand names like Dewalt?  No, not usually.  But the prices were significantly less and usually the performance was similar or at least adequate while they lasted for my DIY projects.  In general I have found most DIY reviews were pretty positive while many of the negative reviews were from professionals who normally use expensive, high-end tools and use them a lot.  An inexpensive cordless drill was a welcome addition to the tools in my enclosed motorcycle trailer.

Harbor Freight offers a wide assortment of portable generators, ranging from small "tailgater" units to large ones that provide enough power to run your whole house in an emergency.   I have seen Youtube videos that both praise and criticize Harbor Freight generators.  Generally the ones from Harbor Freight will be considerably less expensive than well know name brands and may still be a good value even if they don't meet the same performance or longevity of the higher priced brands.  I have a 4500 watt unit I use frequently due to power outages in my rural area and in the two or three years I've had it, it has performed flawlessly.  It cost way less than half a "brand name"generator of the same size.

Harbor Freight is offering a line of winches that is an extraordinary value.   I have personally used a couple of their 2500 lb ATV winches and been very satisfied with them.  I have been eyeing the 12,000 lb Badlands winch for my 4WD truck.  At a regular retail price of $599 it is about 1/3 the cost of a similarly rated name brand winch and I have seen several very favorable reviews on Youtube from highly qualified professional users.  I have even noticed that a couple of popular off-road recovery teams uses the 12,000 lb Badlands winch.  I recently saw the 12,000 lb Badlands winch on sale for just $319!  And they have a hitch-mount rack specifically designed for it for just $75.  A similarly sized Warn brand winch typically retails for around $1800!

Harbor Freight has recently introduced some higher priced hand and power tools.  These might be of particular interest to professionals or those whose budgets can accommodate the higher prices.   Supposedly they will be closer in fit, finish, and quality to the high-end name brand tools but still less expensive.  When purchasing hand tools, especially things like pliers and wrenches and sockets, I look at the fit and finish and prefer those with precise edges and a smooth, shiny finish.  I have seen wrenches that looked like they had been cast in sand molds and avoid them!  Most of the hand tools that have failed me in the past would not have passed my current fit and finish selection criteria.  A lot of the wrenches and socket sets at Harbor Freight have a very nice fit and finish.

Harbor Freight often offers a variety of hardware you won't find any place else.  I find their "storehouse" offerings particularly appealing.  These are collections of small parts (nuts, bolts, fasteners, o-rings, nylon clamps, hitch pins, cotter keys, etc).  They usually come with their own plastic storage bins to organize them for ease of use.  A quick glance at my supply cabinet shows o-rings, hitch pins, cotter keys, metric nuts and bolts, SAE nuts and bolts, hose rings, hose clamps and cable clamps.  Having an assortment of commonly used hardware on hand has saved many projects and many trips to town!  They also usually have a good assortment of cable ties, ranging from tiny little ones handy for controlling phone charger cables to huge ones big enough to secure tents and sleeping bags.  On a related note, I figured out a way to keep the little plastic tubs in my dirt bike trailer nut and bolt storehouse from sliding out when traveling:  I cut some pieces of thin welding rod to match the height and width of the cabinet, then heated the ends and suck them into the plastic frames so they crossed in front of the drawers. It was a quick, cheap, and easy way to keep things from getting tossed all over the place towing the trailer to off-road locations.

Garden tools.  There are a surprising number of garden tools that might be useful for campers as well as for home use.  Axes, wedges, rakes, bow and pruning saws, and shovels are among the most appropriate camping choices as well as chain saws. Harbor Freight offers gasoline, electric, and cordless chain saws.  Bow saws and folding pruning saws are especially well suited for camping.   Folding saws are handy if you are hiking or backpacking.  Bow saws are a little stronger, cut faster, and are easier to use if you have a place to carry them,

Harbor Freight also has a wide assortment of gloves:  work gloves, garden gloves, welding gloves, mechanics gloves, latex gloves.  I rely almost exclusively on work and latex gloves from Harbor Freight for my home improvement, yard, RV, boat and car maintenance projects.  Their regular prices are usually very reasonable and they often have coupons that make them even more affordable.  I have noticed a dramatic increase recently in the cost of latex and nitrile gloves, thanks to COVID-19!

I have found  many uses for foam anti-fatigue mats which Harbor Freight has at a good price .  Be sure to watch for coupons for even greater savings, sometimes as low as $4.99 for 4-6 mats!  I have them in front of the workbench in my garage and in my motorcycle trailer.  I have also used them for a comfortable, anti-skid deck around and under my inflatable spa.  They can also be used to insulate the inside of boat cabins and are especially nice around the v-berth so you don't rub up against the cold fiberglass or metal hull in the middle of the night.  In addition to insulating the hull, the pads also reduce condensation inside the boat.

Harbor Freight stocks a good supply of safety items, such as goggles and face masks.   You will also find lot of other safety products, some you might not even have thought about before.  It can be educational just looking through the safety section.  I picked up some non-skid tape that has been useful on my RV, my motorcycle trailer, a utility trailer, and my sailboat as well as around the house.

Harbor Freight used to regularly offer coupons via print ads in many publications but has recently switched to online coupons.  Their coupons often provide substantial savings on their already low prices.  Use your favorite search engine to look for "Harbor Freight Coupons" to get the best prices on things you need.  Sometimes I peruse the coupons and take advantage of them to get items I might not even have an immediate need for if they are at a good price if I think I might have a use for them someday.  I like to be prepared.  They usually have a 20% off any item coupon that is especially useful when buying higher priced items at regular price.  Coupons are often a way to get customers into a store in hopes they will buy other things.  That being said, I have never had any negative experience buying coupon-only items at Harbor Freight.

They also offer an ''Insider's Club'' that gives additional discounts on selected items from time to time.  There is a modest annual fee to maintain your Club status but you usually recoup the cost quickly, especially if you purchase more expensive items where the Club savings on one purchase can often offset the annual fee.

Many Harbor Freight stores have side-walk sales from time to time.  These an be an especially good time to get excellent bargains.  Sometimes the inventory includes returned items offered at substantial savings.  When we lived in southern California we were even close enough to take advantage of the large side-walk sale at their warehouse in Camarillo, California.

In summary, I generally find Harbor Freight tools and hardware to be a good value.   As always, you should examine anything you are buying to make sure it meets your personal needs.  I would look to their higher-end offerings or maybe even defer to brand names for ongoing professional use but do-it-your-selfers may be able to expand your tool inventory at reasonable prices from their standard lines, allowing you to add many tools that would be way outside your budget if you bought professional brands and they will more than likely hold up well in occasional homeowner use.

Tool up!

Keeping Your Boat Cabin a Comfortable Temperature

Let's face it, we all like to be comfortable!

 If you have a climate controlled luxury yacht you can probably skip this post.   However, the rest of us might find some useful tips here for keeping our boat cabins a comfortable temperature.  The cabin temperature on smaller boats can be notoriously difficult to control.

It is often more difficult to maintain climate control on a boat than it is an RV.  Almost all RVs have some kind of furnace or heater for cold days and many have a roof A/C to keep it cool on hot days.  But boats, especially small boats like daysailers, have neither and, of course, open boats have none.   RVs usually have insulation and many small boat cabins have none.  Since boating is mostly a fair weather activity the lack of a heater usually isn't a problem but often keeping cool is.  Of course, heaters and A/Cs are not relevant on open boats, but controlling the climate inside any boat with a cabin can be an adventure in itself.  Climate control in open boats is pretty much an individual thing -- dress for (or stay out of) the weather.  However, you can add a bimini cover provide some shade against the summer sun for many boats and it might help keep the rain off.  If you need to keep warm, wear warmer clothes -- or head back to a warm clubhouse, tavern, cabin, or campfire on the shore.

Like any other inhabited area we would like our boat cabins to be a comfortable temperature.  Human beings are usually most comfortable when the air temperature is about 70-72F.  When it gets hotter we want a cooler environment; when it is colder we seek warmer places.  When it is hot outside we want our boat cabins to be cool.  When the weather is wet and cold we want a warm, dry place inside out of the cold, wind, and wet stuff.   Small boat cabins usually do a pretty good job of getting us out of the elements.  However, many times boat cabins are not well insulated making them more susceptible to outside temperatures.  Having the hull sit in the water often means a large part of the boat functions as a heat sink to absorb heat from inside the boat and makes it hard to keep it warm inside.  Uninsulated hulls transfer heat to the water quite efficiently.  On hot days that can be a real boon, but on colder days it means it is going to take more heat to keep the cabin warm than it would to maintain the temperature in an RV or a room of similar size.  Rubbing up or leaning against a cold fiberglass or metal hull in bed can really ruin your rest period!  Since boating is usually a mostly fair weather sport the most common temperature problem on boats is the cabins are usually too warm , so cooling a boat cabin is often more of a priority than heating.  However, an uninsulated hull can still be very uncomfortable to the touch, even on warm days. Rolling over against one on cold nights can be really chilling!

Because weight is almost always a significant factor for boats, they often lack any kind of insulation.  Many times you can add some insulation if you have direct access to the inside of the hull as you do any many small boats. Foam anti-fatigue mats are an easy way to insulate boat walls.  They are fairly light weight, easy to cut to shape, are flexible to fit curved surfaces, and can be simply secured with basic adhesives.  Dark gray or black are standard colors but you can also buy brightly colored tiles that might be more attractive.  They can be glued directly to the fiberglass or metal hull liner in many boats.  Applying them below the water line will be especially helpful in preventing heat loss through the hull to the water.  Having them above the water line will help keep unwanted heat out and desirable heat in.  Installed on the walls of the V-berth they give you a padded, insulated surface next to your bed, making it far more comfortable than pressing up against a cold (or hot!) uninsulated hull wall!  Using them on the floor also has anti-slip benefits.  Adding insulation can also reduce condensation on the inside of the hull and the foam pad is softer than the hull if you bump into it.  Make sure whatever you add doesn't significantly increase the displacement.  A few pounds won't affect most boats large enough to include any kind of enclosed cabin, but consider that even light weight insulation may add up more quickly than you expect if you are applying it to large spaces.  If the weight of your boat and normal gear and supplies is already close to its maximum safe displacement, be careful adding extra weight!  The cabins on some boats have an upholstered ceiling that helps minimize heat transfer in and out.  I have seen folks remove it for cosmetic purposes usually when it gets old and stained, but doing so ultimately allows more heat into the cabin in hot weather and more heat loss when it's cold.  If your boat lacks any kind of ceiling covering you might add some to make controlling the inside temperature a little easier.

A wind scoop can often be used with a ceiling hatch on just about any boat to capture any available breeze and direct it down into the cabin for ventilation and cooling.  There are even models that are omni-directional so they will work no matter which direction the wind is coming from.   When your boat is in motion there is usually enough apparent wind coming from the bow for a front-facing scoop to work well, but when moored or anchored you may have to adjust the scoop as the wind changes direction.  Remember to leave another hatch or window open so the incoming air has somewhere to go!  Otherwise you simply pressurize the cabin and you won't get any air movement inside.  Wind scoops work pretty well when the boat is in motion but unless you monitor them and realign them with the wind as necessary while anchored they will only work when facing the wind -- unless you have the omni-directional style which is generally more expensive and sometimes a little bulkier.

Sometimes you can keep a cabin cooler by protecting it from the sun with some kind of canopy or awning.   A simple tarp suspended over the cabin to shade the cabin and provide a shaded air buffer to keep it out of direct sunlight will help keep things cooler inside.  Simply draping a tarp over the cabin might help a little but may also conduct heat if it touches the cabin surface so having it a few inches away from the surface is better.  Using a reflective silver or white tarp will keep things cooler than using a dark blue or green tarp.  You can usually set up a "boom tent" on sailboats fairly easily using the boom when the mainsail isn't raised.  A boom tent can cool the cockpit as well as the cabin but is really only practical at anchor.  A more permanent cover called a "bimini" can be adapted to provide shade on many boats.  They are more practical on power boats because they get in the way of  the very necessary task of watching the sails on a sailboat.  Some creative owners have made biminis with clear panels so they get rain protection but can still see the sails.

Portals (windows) on boats are usually much smaller than windows on RVs and campers but they can still let in a lot of unwanted sunlight and heat on hot days.  If you find you are getting unwanted heat through windows, cover them with reflective film or even total blackout film or hang curtains over them to block the sunlight.  You might be surprised how much cooler your cabin will be on hot sunny days when you limit sunlight intrusion!  Of course, smaller openings also don't work as well to help cool things when needed.

On larger boats, you may have the option of installing an air conditioner to cool things down on hot days.  Air conditioners are generally too heavy and too bulky to be used on smaller boats plus you need a 120 volt generator or a solar system together with a large and heavy battery bank to power them.  I have seen examples of DIY boat A/C using residential window mount room air conditioners but I am not sure they will stand up to the rigors of a marine environment.  I also worry about the stress the weight and leverage of typical window air conditioners would put on cabin bulkheads that were not designed for that kind of loading and about the effects of humidity in a marine environment on the electrical components.  The weight of an air conditioner is of more concern on smaller boats where the added weight  will be more noticeable and affect displacement and handling more than it would on a  larger yacht.

Evaporative coolers sometimes used on RVs (and land-based structures) aren't going to work well on boats.   Evaporative cooler depend on rapid evaporation of water so they work best in dry climates.  They work very well on RVs used for desert camping but since boats are sitting in the water the humidity level in the air is usually pretty high and evaporative coolers only work well in low humidity.  Evaporative coolers only really work at a humidity of 50% or lower and work best below 25%.  Very unlikely to find humidity that low on a lake, river, or ocean.

Cooling fans.  Fans don't really cool, but by moving air they make you feel cooler by evaporating perspiration faster and carrying heat away from your body.  Sometimes fans can be used to remove hot air or bring in cooler air to make the interior more comfortable too.  Portable 12-volt and even self contained battery powered fans can be use in even the smallest of cabins to create a little air movement that can make a big difference in comfort.  Heck, even fanning your face with a hand fan or even a paper plate can help!  You can enhance the cooling affect of fans by spritzing your skin with water from a spray bottle.  However, any kind of evaporative cooling will be limited by the high humidity in most marine environments.  Spraying yourself with cool water when the humidity is already 90 or 100% may help cool you a little but you won't get the same evaporative cooling you would get at lower humidity.  Sprays or mist systems generally work well in desert climates but not so well near bodies of water or other places with high humidity.  Even so, the cool spray itself can feel pretty good.

Many smaller boat cabins lack any kind of heater.   Since boating is often a fair weather activity and weight is a serious factor for boats, it makes sense to leave off heavy fuel tanks and furnaces.  The human body generates about as much heat as a 100 watt bulb so just being in a small enclosed space (like the cabin on a daysailer) will usually result in the space warming up fairly quickly, especially if you have more people.  My wife and I usually find just the two us us keep the cabin of our Macgregor 25 sailboat comfortable on cool nights without any auxiliary heat.  I am sure we would need more heat if outside temperatures dropped near or below freezing.  I once had to open doors and windows of our home during winter temperatures in the teens in Utah when I had 20 or so people in my living room even with no heat on!  Cooking inside your boat will warm things up but you should never use a cooking stove just for heating and you must always provide sufficient ventilation.  Often the heat from cooking an evening meal together with body heat is sufficient if your boat isn't drafty.  If you regularly need yet more heat you should obtain an auxiliary heater that is approved for maritime applications.  If you have 120 volt power an electrical heater is an easy and usually cost effective way of warming things up.  Lacking electricity you will have to consider some kind of  marine rated fuel powered heater.  Alcohol is often recommended for marine applications because the liquid fuel does not explode and the fumes aren't heavier than air and won't accumulate in the bilge.  Propane heaters that use self-sealing disposable fuel cylinders might be an option but you will need to store extra cylinders somewhere outside the cabin.   See Safety Tips for Small Propane Bottles from Practical Sailor for more information.

Automotive heaters that run off engine coolant can assist in warming up an RV.  I even had one RV that used engine heat to pre-warm the hot water heater while driving.  However, since most boat motors use water from the outside for cooling, automotive type heaters that run off hot water from the cooling system are not practical for use on boats.  The coolant generally doesn't get hot enough to be very effective and the plumbing to support it would be overly complicated and add unwanted and unnecessary weight on a boat.

Hatches and portals should be appropriately positioned open or closed to help you maintain the desired cabin temperature.  On hot days you will want to keep things fairly open to allow ventilation to help with cooling.  On cold days you will usually want to keep things closed ("batten down the hatches") unless you are using some kind of heater or lights (lanterns) inside that could put off toxic fumes and consume oxygen, in which case it is essential to maintain adequate ventilation.  Open things link the companionway slide will allow a LOT of heat to escape, partially because of the large opening but also because of the location at the top of the cabin (remember:  heat rises!).

Since boating is usually a fair-weather activity, cooling is usually the most common problem to be solved.  Some days may start out cool, then get warmer as time passes.  Dressing in layers so you can strip down to a comfortable level as things warm up is a good practice.  You can also use spray bottle to create a mist to help cool your body.   As mentioned above, a wind scoop can often provide much needed air flow for cabin cooling.  The physical activity often required by a sailboat often helps keep sailors warm.  Sometimes engine heat from inboard motors will also provide additional comfort on power boats.  If you need more heat be sure to get a heater that is designed for indoor marine use.  Catalytic propane heaters used in cabins and campers might work, but be sure to maintain adequate ventilation and store the propane cylinders out in the cockpit or on the deck.

Stay warm and keep your cool!

End of Season Tasks for Campers, RVers, and Boaters

We are almost into September.  Soon the kids will be back in school and it soon will be time to start winterizing our summer toys.  There might be time for one last hoorah in the motorhome, out on the boat, or riding off road toys, but before long it will be time to tuck them away until next season.  All of our summer recreational equipment should be properly prepared for winter storage.  Failure to do so may result in serious damage over the winter or, at the very least, make getting it ready to use again next season more difficult.  For more information on winterizing, check out this post.

Motorhomes and campers  and boats need to have their water systems winterized before the onset of freezing weather.  That means draining all the holding tanks and either blowing all the water out of the system or filling the plumbing with RV antifreeze to keep the pipes from freezing -- if you live where you get freezing weather.  Folks who live in the sunbelt don't have to worry about freeze protection.  Check out this post  or more detailed motorhome winterization .

Anything with a gasoline engine will need to have the fuel system treated to prevent deteriorating fuel from clogging up the works.  For small engines, like motorcycles and outboard motors, you can turn off the fuel and run all the gas out of the system to reduce the problems old fuel causes in carburetors and injection systems.  Then treat the remaining fuel in the tank with a fuel stabilizer or drain the tanks.  For motorhomes and boats with inboard motors add the fuel treatment, then run the engines for 10 or 15 minutes so the treated fuel fills the system.

 How you deal with your boat depends on whether you plan to leave it in the water or haul it out for the winter.   Trailerable boats and other smaller boats are usually hauled out and either tarped or shrink-wrapped to protect the against winter weather.  Of course water systems on boats require the same winterizaton in freezing climates as campers.  For more detailed suggestions for winterizing your boat, click here.

Camping equipment should be inspected and cleaned and repaired as necessary before putting it into storage.  Fabric items such as sleeping bags, blankets, and tents, are particularly susceptible to damage from mold and mildew if they get put away damp.  You will also want to protect them against pests such as moths using moth balls or dryer cloths.  Sleeping bags should NOT be tightly rolled for long term storage as it will crush the filling and destroy the lift that provides the warmth and comfort.  Kitchen items, such as pots and pans, dishes, and utensils should be clean and dry before storage and should be packed to protect them against breakage or other impact damage.  Fuel should be drained from stoves and lanterns.  Perishable provisions should be removed and all remaining cooking stuff should be stored in tightly closed plastic tubs.  

Camping clothing should be laundered and properly stored in closets or in moisture-proof plastic bins.  Before putting it away inspect each item for any damage that needs to be repaired or might relegate the item to be recycled.  Here again items need to be protected against moths using moth balls or dryer cloths.

There is at least one other task on the end of season list.  This last one is a little more fun.  It is checking out the End of Season Sales where ever you like to shop for camping supplies.  Retailers often offer great savings on seasonal summer merchandise to make room for winter items.  Sometimes end of season sales will start as early as July or August.  Some retailers take large price cuts right away to quickly move inventory.  Others may start out with smaller discounts, say 10%, and gradually increase them over time.  We will each have our own idea of how much of a discount will motivate us to buy something and that discount will probably vary depending on the total cost of an item and how much we may want or need it.  Personally I usually take a close look at anything with a discount of 50% or more to see if I want to expand my back up resources to try something new.  Lesser discounts may be worth grabbing on items you need or want, especially if they are popular and will sell out quickly.

Of course, this isn't the end of the season for everyone!  Some people continue to enjoy their motorhomes and boats and even camping year round, although it typically requires some special preparation to accommodate more harsh weather.   Some off roaders enjoy the challenge of riding in the snow and, or course, snowmobilers are anxious for winter to come!  If you are one of those folks, instead of putting everything away until next spring you will want to make the necessary preparations to protect your resources against winter weather and make it ready for winter use.

Winter is sometimes a chance to take a break and review last year's fun activities.   Now is a good time to complete documenting your summer trips, review your want lists, and begin making plans for next year.  It is often an excellent time or make needed repairs, perform annual maintenance, or make updates or additions to your equipment.

There doesn't have to be anything off about the off season!

Doing Jumps on a Dirt Bike or an ATV -- Showing Off or Essential Skill

OK, so why would anyone want to do jumps on a dirt bike or an ATV?  Well, for one thing, it is fun!  And, of course, some people do it just to show off.  However, believe it or not, it is a useful skill you just might need unless you only ride on flat, familiar tracks or trails.   And you may encounter jumps even on familiar terrain.   If you do any desert or cross country riding you are likely to encounter sand washes and other obstacles you may have to negotiate.  We did a lot of riding in the Mojave Desert and ran across LOTS of sand washes.   Some were shallow and easy to cross, some were deep and you either had to jump all the way over them, jump down into them, or stop and find a way around.  If you come on one of these unexpectedly, you don't have time to stop and find a way around so you either have to jump over or into them!  You may also encounter other obstacles that you need to  jump over.  So I consider jumping to be an essential skill, not just a trick for show-offs.

As I contemplated what I would do if I encountered a wash and couldn't stop in time I decided it was time to at least learn how to jump down into one safely.  To do that I rode around until I found a shallow wash, about 1' deep and began jumping down into it.  No big deal.  As soon I got comfortable with that I moved along the wash to where it was a little deeper and began practicing there.  I kept moving along until eventually I could comfortably jump down into a wash 5 or 6 feet deep.  Having accomplished that I felt a lot more confident in being able to safely handle coming on a deep wash by surprise.   We took some videos of us jumping down into a wash about 6' deep and quite honestly they were disappointing.  Jumping into a wash like that looks pretty easy on film (and actually it is!).  However, it FEELS a lot more scary and exciting than it looks until you get used to it.  You don't want your first time to be a surprise when you suddenly come upon a wash and don't have time to stop or room to turn.  It takes some practice to build up the confidence to handle jump safely and successfully when required.  Unexpectedly finding yourself flying off the edge of a sand wash could result in a really bad landing if you don't know how to handle it.

You can learn to jump obstacles in a similar way by starting small.  Find or build a small bump and learn to launch off of it, then move up to larger and larger bumps as you get more comfortable.  You can practice riding whoop-de-doos, where lifting the front wheel from the top of one whoop to the next can significantly smooth out the ride.  Another little trick I learned for smoothing out the whoops is to stand up, kind of relax your arms, and let the bike pivot on the foot pegs beneath your feet as it rolls up and down the whoops, but jumping every other one lets you go faster.

Motocross and Supercross tracks have big jumps that may send bikes and riders 50' - 80' in the air and  100' or more over the ground.  That kind of jumping isn't something the average recreational rider is likely to find necessary but you may still encounter hillocks on a trail that may make you airborne for a little bit and it is a good idea to know how to handle them.  Again, the key to learning how to handle such obstacles is practice.  Start with small jumps and work your way up.  Sometimes being able to jump over some of the whoops in long section can save time and hammering on your bike -- and your body, but you need practice so you can land in the right place to launch over the next set successfully.  It takes more than a little practice to learn how much throttle you need to clear a particular size of obstacle but is well worth learning.

No matter whether you are jumping into a sand wash or over an obstacle, it is best to know what it looks like where you are going to land.  Out in the desert we often encountered mounds of dirt in the middle of an otherwise flat plain.  When you see something like think about how it got there.  Most likely it is the result of someone digging a hole.  Believe me, you don;t want to jump over a mound of dirt and find yourself landing in a big hole on the other side.   When he was a teen my eldest son found himself looking down into a deep mine shaft when jumping a pile of dirt.  Fortunately, he managed to make it far enough that his back tire barely caught the far edge of the shaft and he landed safely.  Same principle applies to jumping over sand dunes.  Very often the far side of the dune may be hollowed out and you will find yourself much higher off the ground than you expected.  The teenage daughter of an acquaintance of mine was killed jumping her ATV over just such a dune.  It wasn't a particularly large dune from where she approached it but the back side was hollowed out more than 40' deep!  Riders often expect the dunes to be symmetrical, with equal slopes on both sides but  often that is not always the case.

Another tip for jumping is to always keep the front wheel up so you land on the rear wheel first.  Landing on the front wheel first can bend the forks, twist the steering, or simply compress the suspension and cause you to "endo" (where the rear of the bike flips over the front wheel throwing you over the handlebars).  In such cases you often experience two very painful impacts:  one when you hit the ground and again when the bike hits you as it tumbles.  Landing rear wheel first makes it easier to control the landing.  Landing on the front wheel first has the risk of  the wheel turning to one side or the other and sending you out of control.  The front forks are also more likely to bend if you land wrong.  The fixed rear wheel won't turn sideways and the center of gravity brings the front of the bike down whereas if you land front wheel first the center of gravity of the moving bike wants to rotate forward and up and toss you off.   Jumping ATVs is very similar to jumping dirt bikes but you also need to keep the machine level side to side as you leave the ground and when you hit the other side.  Larger UTVs (side-by-sides) can handle limited jumps, but the added size and weight are something to always keep in mind.  I've seen dozens of UTVs with broken front wheels and suspensions from bad landings.

UTVS or side-by-sides are capable of handling some jumps, but the added size and weight makes jumping them not nearly as feasible as it is with dirt bikes and ATVs.  No doubt you have seen impressive vehicle jumps on TV shows and videos but what you may not know is that unless they were specially modified most of those vehicles had to be towed away from the landing.  Normal cars and trucks are not designed to handle the impact of landing from being jumped.  The Dukes Of Hazard busted up almost all the Dodge Chargers like the General Lee in Southern California, wrecking between 250 and 325 of them during the six year run of the series.  If I owned a UTV I certainly wouldn't go out of my way to jump it!  But I would want to know how to do so if I had to.  Many UTVs have almost as much wheel travel as dirt bikes.

Jumping a dirt bike (or an ATV) is not always for the professionals or showoffs.  Sometime it is a valuable skill you may need when you encounter obstacles when riding off road,

Jump safe!

NEW: Ads on rvsandohvs.blogpsot.com

You may have noticed that ads have begun to appear on this blog as of May 2021.  I have signed up with Google Adsense, who is totally responsible for the choice of ads that appear on these pages.  While I receive a small token payment for each ad that gets clicked on, I have no direct contact with any of the advertisers.  I do not choose the ads.  They do not influence my choice of topics nor what I might say about various products.  I have no idea what products they are going to advertise on my blog.  I wish I did!  I sincerely hope the algorithm Adsense uses delivers ads that are relevant and may actually be of some use to my readers.  Seems like it would make good sense for them to do so.

As always, any criticism or applause I offer for any products I may mention is purely my personal opinion and will not be influenced by the presence -- or absence -- of related advertising.  Ads have been placed to minimize intrusion on the articles themselves.  You may see them at the top of the right margin or at the bottom of articles.  I do receive a small (tiny) payment each time someone clicks on an ad so if you seen anything that interests you, please do click on it!  It will help me pay for additional research.   Lest you think I'm getting rich off ads it looks like I've earned just over $25 in almost a year of presenting ads -- and Adsense doesn't actually pay until it hits at least $100 so I probably won't see anything for about 4 years! Thank you to those who clicked on ads.

You will find links to some products embedded in posts.  These links are provided for information and for your convenience.  I do not receive any commission or other compensation for them.

I hope the ads do turn out to be relevant and useful.  I have found it helpful sometimes when I have found useful ads connected to articles I was reading.  I also find it annoying when I am besieged by ads that have no relation to the article and are totally useless and sometimes even offensive.  With all the artificial intelligence available to those who place ads on web pages you would think they would want to take full advantage of making the ads appropriate to the viewer.  Seems to me doing so is really a no-brainer, but sometimes "no-brain" is an apt description for some of the ads that besiege us.  An excellent example of that are tons of medication ads on TV, many of which say "Ask your doctor about xxxxx" without ever telling us what the medication is for!  How dumb is that!

Please feel free to comment on whether the ads you see are of any use to you.  It is my sincere hope that AdSense schedules ads that have at least some relevance to the overall intent of this blog and hopefully even to the individual topics to which they are attached.

Ad on!

Pre-trip Route Checking for Boaters

A previous post promoted pre-trip route checking for camping, RVing and OHVing.  Knowing the current status of roads, bridges, and venues can ensure a safe and enjoyable trip.  Pre-checking the route for boating activities is just as important but, of course, it will be somewhat different.  If you trailer your boat, you will want to check all the roads, gates, and bridges along your route to your launch point to make sure it is acceptable.  Basically for this you will want to consider the same things you would for Pre-Trip RV Route Checking.  You will also need to know if the launch ramp is suitable for the size of your boat and what you are towing it with and if it is useable condition.  Some marinas have cranes that can get your boat into the water for you but many do not.  Having Boat Trailer Guide Posts can be very helpful when it is time to pull the boat back out of the water.

Next you will want to consider the route you will be taking on the water in your boat.  It usually isn't as feasible to pre-scout the route over water like you can over land in a smaller vehicle, but if you have a very large boat it might be useful to check out the route in a smaller, more maneuverable craft before embarking on you primary journey if possible.  If you are only sailing on familiar inland lakes and rivers you may already know enough about where you are going,  but if you are headed into unfamiliar territory you will want to learn as much about it as you can.  Long ocean voyages aren't usually candidates for pre-running the route but negotiating local channels, inland lakes and rivers, and coastal waterways could still be useful if you have a vessel to do it in.  The alternative to pre-running is checking charts and maps and talking with other skippers who have already made the same voyage before.  You will need to pay special attention to things like navigable channels, the depth of water wherever you plan to go, any bridges or other over-head obstacles you may have to pass under, and any known underwater obstacles such as rocks, reefs, sandbars, coral, and wrecks.  Water currents (including tides) and wind will also need to be taken into consideration.  For ocean voyages you will need to be aware of regular trade routes.  Wind will be of more concern to sailboaters but wind can have a surprising affect on power boats that you will need to take into consideration when estimating travel times and fuel consumption.  Wind can also kick up waves that can pose a threat to your comfort and safety as well as slowing your progress.  Typical weather, major ocean current, and jet stream patterns will all have potential impact on any ocean voyage.  Local weather will be of even more concern to boaters than it is to RVers and campers, so be sure to check the forecast.

If your trip on the water will extend beyond one day you will want to plan for safe overnight anchorages along the way.  If your chosen anchorage is within a marina you will need make sure there is space available for the time you need.  Sometimes that means making advanced reservations.  If you can't make reservations you should probably plan for at least one alternate anchorage in case your first choice is full.  For long ocean voyages you will need to plan for 24-hour crew assignments or be prepared to heave to to give yourself time to sleep.

You may also need to plan for fuel stops.  Even sailboats often have auxiliary engines that require fuel.  You may need to carry extra fuel if fuel isn't available along your route.  Be sure to use only approved containers and store it safely and securely.  Outboard motors often have trouble with the E85 gasoline sold for automobiles so you may have to seek out locations the sell "clear" gas or plan to bring enough with you for your entire trip.  Speaking of outboard motors, many of them, especially older ones, may use 2-stroke engines so be sure to bring along enough oil to mix with the gas as needed,

Weather is probably an even more important factor for boaters than for campers and RVers.  A sudden rain storm can dampen your planned picnic but you can usually just wait it out in your tent or RV.  Bad weather out on the water can often deliver significant safety hazards and very often will seriously affect the progress of your voyage.  If you are in an open boat you will not be able to eaily escape any rain or other precipitation you may encounter along the way.  You wouldn't want to plan a boat trip when there are hurricanes or tornadoes forecast in the area during your planned excursion.  Rain and thunderstorms are not optimal weather for boating either.  Even without a the tall mast of a sailboat, just about any boat can pretty easily become the tallest thing on the water and therefore a likely target of lightning.  You should ensure your boat is properly equipped with lightning protection.  This usually consisted of some kind of mast that is grounded to the water so electrical charges can pass without striking occupants or equipment.  You will probably want to avoid boating trips when rain or thunderstorms are in the forecast, but you can't always avoid them or may encounter them unexpectedly, so be prepared!

The more you can learn about your route before you start your voyage, the safer you will be, the fewer the delays, less chance of accidents, and the more fun the trip will be.  That applies to both getting to the water and out on the water.  Sometimes learning about the route is a fun exercise all by itself!

Trip out!

COVID and Camping -- Summer 2021

The CDC has recently announced relaxed mask rules for people who have been vaccinated against COVID-19.  However, the new rules come with a few caveats.  First of all, your vaccine has to be "fully in effect" which typically means it has been at least two weeks since your final shot.  Vaccinated folks are allowed to go outside without masks but entering a facility without a mask requires the facility to verify the vaccination status.  Without a verification protocol in place, everyone is still required to wear a mask.  I have seen at least one business post signs accepting vaccinated customers without masks but there was no evidence of any kind of verification protocol.   I have also seen organizations say they are accepting vaccinated folks on "the honor system".  Hmmm.  Hope that works!

Because of an increase in COVID cases following the original relaxation of rules, many jurisdictions have imposed stricter indoor mask requirements and put limits on indoor gatherings.

Since most of our camping activities are outdoors, the new rules may give us greater freedom from wearing masks during camping outings.   Limits on the size of gatherings have been raised, making it easier for us to get together with our fellow outdoor enthusiasts.  However, we are still expected to respect rules for social distancing and since there isn't any very viable way to verify all the folks in our campground or even around our campfire have been vaccinated, it may still be  a good idea to continue wearing masks -- to avoid unnecessary conflict with fellow campers if nothing else.  Since masks do more to prevent a contaminated person from spreading the disease than they do to protect wearers from catching it, you might feel OK not wearing a mask but it could cause conflicts with other people it the vicinity.

Camping is, as always, a GREAT family activity.  Family groups who know each others vaccination status should be free to assemble without masks.  You might be able to expand that to extended families and even close friends who have been vaccinated.  That being said, you may want to keep your masks close at hand should you receive any visitors who may feel the need for the extra protection.  While you and other vaccinated members of your group may not be at risk, un-vaccinated visitors may be worried about their risk and may be more comfortable around people wearing masks.

What a strange situation we now live in!  A little over a year ago masks were only worn by ordinary people at Halloween or sometimes on New Years Eve  Wearing any kind of mask at other times would would have been suspected of  mischief or even possible criminal intent.  Today NOT wearing a mask is seen as criminal!  Saw a kind of strange post on Facebook about how, in California, it is legal to take a dump in public, but you can be arrested for doing it without wearing a mask!

As  a camper and outdoor recreationalist I welcome the relaxed rules and very much look forward to the day when we can return to normal association with our neighbors and fellow campers.  We are planning to de-winterize our sailboat and haul it out to the lake soon and are hoping for a sailing season that is closer to normal.  Getting out on the water is a very nice way to maintain social distancing while still having fun.  We seldom come anywhere near other vessels as close as the required 6' for social distancing so it is only on the docks or inside buildings that we may have to consider wearing masks.

Stay safe and have fun!

Ratchet Straps for RVing, Camping, and Boating

We all use ratchet straps to tie down dirt bikes and loads on trailers and stuff.  I even use them to make sure my sailboat stays snug on its trailer in transit.  Putting a twist in them helps keep them from vibrating and makes them easier to see in your rear view mirrors to make sure they are where they are supposed to be but some people say that significantly reduces their strength.  Just watched a Youtube video where a guy tested a bunch of 2" straps.  He tested with 1 twist, 4 twists, 10 twists and a wet strap (after setting a base line with a brand new flat dry strap).  He also tested a strap with a knot tied in it.  The one with the knot snapped way below the rated capacity of the strap, like somewhere around 1/3!  However, all the straps with twists held to just about the same force as the straight strap!  The differences that were seen could easily be explained by differences in the individual straps, not to the twists.  They all snapped somewhere around 9,000 lbs, about 10% below the stated breaking point!  Since I always try to use straps with a working load at least twice that of the load I expect to put on them, I am pretty comfortable with achieving 90% the rated breaking strength.  A pair of  1200# ratchet straps holding down a 300# dirt bike is surely plenty of margin!

The straps tested in the video were all 2"straps with a working load of 3,333 lbs and a rated breaking strength of 10,000 lbs.   The most load the tester was able to apply using the handle was around 1500 kg, or 3300 lbs so he was able to load the strap manually to close to its rated working load.  He used an 8 ton air-over-hydraulic jack to stress the straps to the breaking point.  Each strap broke with explosive force and the stressed areas of each strap felt warm or hot to the touch.  They all broke near where the strap wrapped around the spindle.  They all pretty much reached at least 90% of the rated breaking strength, which was 3 times the rated working load. The accelerated  and concentrated stress imposed by the air-over-hydraulic jack may have been different than the stress a normal load would supply but his test protocol seemed to be appropriate and consistent.  He tested them wet as well as dry, with and without twists, and with and without knots.  Twists and being wet did not make any significant difference.  Knots caused straps to fail at much lower loads --  only a fraction of their rated load capacity!

 

Twists help reduce vibration and eliminates the annoying hum wind passing over the straps often causes.  Twists also make the straps easier to see in your rear view mirrors so you can better monitor their condition during travel.  Instead of looking only at the thin edge, you have the twist revealing the full width to view making it easier to tell if they are coming loose.

Another trick is to tie off the loose ends so they don't flap around and cause damage to your vehicle and maybe even work loose!  You can usually just tie a simple overhand knot in the loose end around an accessible part of the secured strap and pull the loose end tight.

So, the bottom line is, it is OK to put a twist in the straps.  It reduces vibration and the twist makes them easier to see in your rear view mirrors.  DO NOT use a strap with a knot in it.  Knots DO significantly reduce strength!  If your straps get wet in the rain or at the boat ramp it shouldn't significantly affect their strength.

 

A common size for ratchet straps is 1" wide and lengths varying from 6' to 30'.   These straps are typically used for securing loads on pickups and utility trailers.  Larger straps are available for heavier loads.  I use 2 1/2" ratchet straps to secure my 25' sailboat to its trailer.  For really sturdy straps check out Matt's Straps, from Matt's OffRoad Recovery.  They are bit pricey, but that are extremely strong and durable.

 

I usually don't use ratchet straps to tie down my dirt bikes.  The cam-lock tie down straps designed for dirt bikes are usually more than adequate to keep them secure and using ratchet straps could easily over compress and damage the suspension.  Ratchet straps are really good for tying down loads on pickups and utility trailers and holding things in place inside moving vans.  And for keeping boats secure on their trailers and objects secure on deck or in the hold.  Be careful not to over tighten them or you could bend or break your cargo or damage what you are fastening it to.

 
Sometimes you can use a ratchet strap or tie down strap as an emergency towing strap for dirt bikes and ATVs.   I would not recommend using them on larger vehicles.  Even side-by-sides are significantly heavier than dirt bikes and ATVs and can easily exceed the rated strength of ratchet straps and tie downs when being towed.  If you need to tow a larger vehicle use a towing strap, snatching strap, chain, or kinetic rope designed for that purpose.  Kinetic ropes are wonderful tools for extracting stuck vehicles.

 

Whenever you use ratchet straps make sure they are rated far above the load you expect to put on them.  Straps will usually give two numbers.  One is the working load, the other the breaking load.  Never use a strap with a working load less (or even near) the load you expect to put on it.  I like to have at least a 2 to 1 factor -- a strap with a working load rated for at least twice the weight I expect to put on it.  The tie down straps (not ratchet straps) I use for my motorcycles are rated around 400# each and I use two on each bike.  The bikes weigh under 300#, giving me way more than a 2 to 1 safety factor, in fact it is closer to 3 or even 4 to 1, depending on the weight of the bike.

Make sure your attachment points are suitable.  When securing loads on trucks and trailers the straps will usually be attached to the vehicle.  Take care to place them where they will hold securely and will not damage the vehicle.  When using straps to secure OHVs or even automobiles, be sure to fasten them to sturdy places that will hold well and neither the hooks nor the straps will bind or inflict any damage.  Even the holes in the top of pickup beds are often not strong enough to use as anchors for ratchet straps.  More than once I have seen them dimpled or distorted by the hooks on ratchet straps that were cranked down too tight.

It helps to make sure you thread ratchet strap correctly too.  Here is a nice Youtube video on how to use a ratchet strap.  It is surprising how often we thread them wrong and that always makes using them difficult or impossible and may reduce their performance.  Take an extra minute to thread it right and things will go much better.  Putting the loose end through the slot in the spindle from the wrong direction will make it difficult if not impossible to properly tighten the straps and lock the handle.  Not pulling the slack out the line before using the ratchet can result it too much material being wound around the spindle, eventually making it impossible to finish tightening the strap.  Always thread the strap correctly, then pull the loose end tight before you start to tighten it using the ratchet handle.  Then tie off the loose end so it doesn't flap in the breeze.  A flapping loose end can mask your view of a strap that is coming loose and sometimes the flapping loose end can jar the handle loose, especially if it hasn't been fully locked down or flapping around it may cause damage to your vehicle.

 

I recently saw ads for self-retracting ratchet straps.   Haven't had a chance to try them out yet.  I have seen some reviews on Youtube and they come off pretty well. Having straps that hold themselves in place while you tighten them and roll themselves up when you are ready to put them away has a certain appeal.  Another advantage is the working end won't pull off the roller like ordinary straps.  However, I am not sure if the bulky roll in the middle would get in the way in some applications.   The ones I've seen look like the roller isn't much bulkier than the normal ratchet handle and spindle so they may be OK, but they might run out of turning room on short runs.  They are also, understandably, a LOT more expensive than standard ratchet straps, like 3-4 times as expensive!

Two cautions for using ratchet straps.  The ratchet handles can deliver a LOT of force to the straps.  Be sure that your attachment points are strong enough to handle the load!  Also exercise caution to avoid damaging the load itself.  Ratchet straps are definitely strong enough to bend metal and break plastic parts.  Sometimes you can minimize the impact of the straps by using padding between the straps and the load.  The pads spread the force out so it isn't concentrated in one place to wreak damage.  Pads will also help avoid damage from the straps rubbing the load if the load shifts or air movement during travel vibrates or moves the straps.  The leverage delivered by the handles of ratchet straps is very powerful.  This is definitely an advantage when securing heavy loads, but can allow you to apply too much force, sometimes enough to damage the cargo.  I use 2 1/2' ratchet straps to secure a 25' fiberglass sailboat to its trailer and noticed some little stress fractures under one of the straps after this last trip.  Guess I shouldn't have given it that last extra tweak!

 

Tie one on!