Winterizing -- Its That Time Again

Winterizing your RV.  If you live in a cold climate you will need to either store your RV in a heated garage or winterize it before the cold weather sets in to prevent freeze damage.  If you are lucky enough to live in the sunshine belt you can probably skip this post for now.  If you choose, for whatever reason, not to winterize your RV, and you live in a cold climate, the consequences could be very expensive.  Temperatures below about 24°F for several days WILL create conditions that can seriously damage RV water systems.  Occasional nights below freezing but with warm day time temperatures may not require full winterizing, but it always better to be safe than sorry.  When I lived in southern California I seldom winterized my vehicles, even when I lived in Rosamond where we got occasional winter night time temps down into the lower 20s. It warmed up enough during the day to prevent the kind of solid freezing that damages plumbing.  It was nice being able to keep the RV ready to roll all year round.  When we moved to Utah I had dreams of building a heated garage, but keeping a big, steel building warm in Utah winters isn't very practical so I've had to resort to winterization.  With night time temperatures in the single digits and daytime highs below freezing, winterization was not optional.   In the process I've had my share of partial successes, resulting in some frozen components when I failed to properly winterize them.   If the damage is in an exposed bit of plumbing, it is an inconvenience and usually a minor expense to repair.  If it occurs inside walls or within the floor, it can be very time consuming and expensive to take care of.  Even frozen pipes under the kitchen sink are a real nuisance to reach.  Proper winterization will take time and require several gallons of RV antifreeze.  It is not a good idea to skimp on either the process or the antifreeze.

The fresh water system is one of the most vulnerable parts of your RV when it comes to freezing. Water freezes at 32°F (0°C).  When water turns to ice it expands.  That's a good thing for lakes 'cause the ice floats.  If it sank, it might never melt and the lake would eventually freeze solid!   Not good for fish or fishermen!  Expansion in confined spaces, like pipes and fixtures, can seriously damage those components.  Many a homeowner and RV owner has suffered the consequences of freezing temperatures on water pipes.   If freezing can rupture heavy galvanized pipe in homes (and it does!), just think what it can do to the comparatively flimsy plastic pipes, dump valves, and fixtures in your RV!  Freezing of fresh water tanks and holding tanks is also of concern, though the size and flexibility of the tanks allows more leeway than thin pipes where the heat is quickly lost and whose structural integrity can be easily destroyed by the expanding ice.   The dump valves and other entry and exterior plumbing are quite susceptible to freeze damage if water is left in them.    All water needs to be eliminated or replaced with RV antifreeze.

To winterize your fresh water system, first drain your fresh water tank then run the water pump and open each faucet until no water comes out.  For added safety, use a 'blow out plug' in the city water inlet to use compressed air to blow any remaining water out of the system.  Be sure to open all the faucets before applying the compressed air.  Leave the drain open until it stops dripping to be sure all the water is out.  You may need to elevate the RV on the side away from the drain to be sure it all comes out.  Drain the hot water heater.  To conserve antifreeze you may want to install a water heater bypass kit (if your RV isn't already equipped with one).  They aren't expensive (usually around $20) and fairly easy to install if you have access to the back of the water heater.  With antifreeze running about $4/gallon, they'll pay for themselves in saved antifreeze the first year.  This allows cold water to pass directly from the feed to the hot water distribution without having to fill the water heater.  It is also a good idea to blow out the lines and fixtures with compressed air if you can.  You will need an adapter to screw into the city water connection to which you can attach your compressed air.  Next fill the system with RV/Marine antifreeze.  DO NOT use automotive antifreeze!   It is toxic. RV antifreeze is usually pink. automotive antifreeze is green or yellow.   If you have access to the 12 volt water pump you may be able to connect a hose from the inlet to draw antifreeze from the jug and pump it through the system.  If not,  add a gallon or so of RV antifreeze to the fresh water tank.   If that isn't enough to allow your pump to deliver water to all the faucets you may have to continue adding antifreeze until it does pump through the system.  You can also buy manual pumps to pump antifreeze in through the city water connection.   Some winter windshield wiper fluids are also pink, so make sure you use ONLY designated RV/Marine antifreeze.  Then disconnect the inlet side of the water pump and run a line into a jug of antifreeze.  Turn the pump on and open one faucet or fixture at a time (don't forget the toilet) and let it run until the pink antifreeze comes out.  Make sure you have at least 1/2 cup of antifreeze in each drain to prevent the P-traps from freezing.  Your fresh water system should now be safe down to the protection level indicated for the antifreeze you used.   If you can't get to the inlet side of the pump, dump about 5 gallons or so of RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank until you can pump it through the lines and faucets.  Make sure the pink stuff comes out ALL the faucets, both hot and cold, and the toilet.   And, don't forget the outside shower if your RV is equipped with one.

Hot water heaters are also subject to freezing when left off (you don't want to waste propane heating water all winter!).   Many RVs have a bypass system so you don't have to fill the whole water heater with antifreeze to protect the hot water lines.  After turning the valves to bypass the water heater, drain the water heater completely.  If your RV doesn't have a hot water heater bypass, one can usually be added fair inexpensively, especially if you can do it yourself.  Then, when you pump antifreeze through lines, it will go through the hot water lines and faucets as well as the cold water lines so all the lines are protected without having to pump 6-10 gallons of antifreeze into the water heater.  Installing a bypass system is pretty easy if you have ready access to the back of the water heater.  You may need custom components if clearances are tight.  Off-the-shelf bypass kits may have fittings and valves that may not fit if clearances are close.

Holding tanks are also susceptible to freeze problems.  Most vulnerable are the dump valves, but the tanks themselves and other plumbing lines can also be ruptured if the contents freeze and expand. Completely drain the holding tanks and add a gallon of antifreeze to each one to protect the dump valves.  Most of the drain lines will be dry, except for the P-traps.  That is why you need a half cup or so of antifreeze in each drain, to fill the P-traps.   Chemicals and contaminates in sewage may lower the freeze point slightly in holding tanks, but unless the additives are antifreeze it probably won't protect them much below the normal freeze point of plain water (32°F) and plain water caught in P-traps would definitely be likely to freeze and damage the plumbing.

The water hoses you use to fill your fresh water tank and to rinse your sewer hoses both need to drained so they don't freeze and burst or take them out and store them in a heated area where they will be protected from freezing.   Some RVers carry multiple fresh water hoses to ensure they can reach the faucets in even the most inconveniently configured camp sites.  Some may also carry a standard garden hose for flushing the holding tanks.  Be sure you take care of all your hoses.

Anything with water in it will need to be drained or protected.   I have a water type fire extinguish in my motorcycle trailer that I have to drain, plus I have to empty our "Camelbak" hydration packs.   Check around your cabinets for where you might have squirreled away bottled water and soda and put it somewhere that it won't freeze.   Frozen soda cans burst when they freeze and when the stuff melts it leaves a really sticky mess.   Ice maker lines should be disconnected and drained.

Propane systems usually don't require any special winterizing for storage, but if you plan to use your RV during winter months you'll want to fill it with a winter blend.  Ordinary propane tends to gel in cold temperatures and then your stove, furnace, and refrigerator won't work.  The winter mix includes butane which has a different vaporization point and helps keep the fuel ready to use at lower temperatures.  I learned this the hard way.  I had a Class B van conversion that I took with me when I moved to Chicago from southern California.  I figured I could increase our driving comfort by lighting the furnace an hour or so before we were ready to drive the van.   I was really disappointed when I could not get anything to light!  It was about -20F outside and the propane was useless. When it warmed up in the spring, everything worked just fine.  If there is excess moisture in your propane system, it could freeze and damage regulators and gas lines.  There is no easy way to determine if there is excess moisture in the propane system.   For peace of mind, have a propane technician check the system.  They may add alcohol to help control moisture and reduce the chances of freezing.

Windshield washer fluid also needs to be changed.   Summer formulas will freeze, most winter formulas are good down to at least -20°F.  That should be good enough for must of us, unless you live in Alaska or plan to visit Antarctica!

Coach batteries must be kept fully charged or removed and stored inside to prevent them from freezing.  An automatic battery charger or good converter with a multi-stage charger should maintain the charge for normal winter temperatures, but batteries should be stored in a non-freezing environment if you expect -- or encounter extreme cold.  Check the electrolyte level.  Low electrolyte will prevent the batteries from charging properly.

Automotive systems in your motorhome or tow vehicle also need to be winterized.  If you've been keeping up with your routine maintenance your coolant should already be at the proper mixture to protect the engine from freezing.  Check the protection level in your radiator using a hydrometer. Make sure you are protected well below the temperatures you expect to experience -- just in case you get an unexpected cold snap.  It is a very good idea to change the oil before storing your vehicle for the winter.   Used oil often contains acids and contaminates that can damage metal parts while in storage.  Don't forget the oil in your generator.  And make sure the battery is fully charged.  A low battery can freeze fairly easily, but a fully charged on will withstand much colder temperatures. A frozen battery may crack, spilling acid all over the place and causing serious and expensive damage as well as destroying the battery.  Removing the batteries on very cold nights is a nuisance, but not nearly as much of a nuisance as cleaning up spilled battery acid if they freeze and break!

Provisions you keep in your RV, including edibles, medicine, and sundries, may need to be removed and stored inside during freezing weather so they don't freeze and break their containers or destroy the contents -- or both!  You won't like the results of either consequence!  Broken containers can be very messy and frozen contents may present you with a nasty surprise when you go to use them next season.  And don't forget the contents of your outside storage compartments.  Some cleaning supplies you store there may need protection to avoid freezing too.

Protecting the exterior from winter weather is also important.   If you don't have a covered or enclosed storage area for your RV, consider investing in a good RV cover.  You'll see people using ordinary tarps and they provide some protection but they don't breath and the coarse surface can damage the finish on your RV.  Tarps are OK if they are set up as shield around and over the vehicle but can damage the paint if they are placed in contact with the surface.   Make sure your vehicle is clean before covering it.  Any dirt or debris is likely to damage the surface as the cover moves.   If your RV is stored outside, be sure to at least protect the tires.   The rubber tends to dry out and crack when the tires sit for long periods of time, especially if they are exposed to sunlight and ozone.  Vinyl tire coves are fairly inexpensive and easy to use.   Ordinary contractor trash bags wrapped around the tires will protect them from the sun.  Keeping the rain and snow of off your RV also prevents intrusion and accumulation of moisture that could then freeze and cause additional damage.   If you have to leave your RV outside when it snows, brush off the accumulation before it gets deep enough to overload the roof or the vents on the roof.  The best way to do this is to use a long-handled broom from a ladder alongside the RV. W alking around on a slippery RV roof, which is usually strewn with obstacles that could be hidden in the snow you could trip over, is a recipe for a nasty fall!   That ground is a long way down and likely to be frozen.  Definitely not someplace you want to land.

Using your RV in winter.  Most people don't use their RVs during freezing weather, but they can make a good base camp for skiing, ice fishing, and snowmobiling if they are properly prepared.   Just keeping your RV furnace set to keep YOU warm doesn't necessarily protect your water systems against freezing.  You may need a heater or heat tape to protect holding tanks, dump valves, and exposed pipes.  A 100-watt bulb inside an exterior compartment that contains exposed water system components may prevent them from freezing -- IF you have 120-volt power to run it all or most of the time.   You will want to seal any potential drafts around doors, windows, and cabinets and use foam insulation panels in the windows to prevent heat loss.  Make sure your furnace is in good condition and you have plenty of winterized fuel.  The propane used in warm climates will gel or freeze in cold weather, so try to use up your summer supply before the cold weather hits and refill your tank with a winter mixture.  If your furnace isn't large enough to meet the demands of your winter outings, explore adding a second furnace or a permanently installed or portable catalytic heater to add more warmth.  If you plan to do a lot of winter camping, it will be worth the investment in a second furnace or a permanently mounted catalytic heater.  If you only need it occasionally, you can probably get by using a "tent heater" for auxiliary heat.  With any catalytic heater, make sure you have adequate ventilation.  While they don't out out smoke or toxic fumes, they do consume oxygen and even seasoned campers have suffocated when they forgot to leave some windows open.  Electrical heaters are an easy remedy if you have shore power or a generator and plenty of fuel, at least for daytime use.  You don't want to run the generator at night so plan on other ways of keeping warm during "quiet hours".  Personal comfort can often be increased at little cost by adjusting your wardrobe.   Thermal underwear, warm socks, and sweaters are usually enough in an RV or even in a tent.  For sleeping comfort you may need a sleeping bag with a lower temperature rating or need to add some extra blankets, quilts, or comforters.  One trick I've found works really well is to open up an extra sleeping bag and use it to cover two people in their individual or shared bags.   The shared bag provides additional insulation and retains heat from both bodies immediately around the sleeping bags instead of letting it escape into the surrounding air and trying to heat and entire tent or RV.

Setting up your RV for winter use.  Some RVs come from the factory already set up for winter use. If yours didn't, there are some things you can do to make it more winter friendly.  Factory setups usually include enclosed and heated holding tank compartments that may be difficult or impossible to do as a retrofit. You may have to resort to heat pads and tape to warm exposed tanks and plumbing. Exterior compartments are often lacking insulation and you may be able to remedy that with rigid styrofoam or foam/foil insulation installed to line the compartments and compartment doors. Insulation alone won't keep exterior compartments warm.  You may need to add heat tape or just install a 60-100 watt incandescent light bulb in each compartment.  You'll need shore or generator power to run the lights, but since incandescent bulbs are about 90% efficient as heaters and 10% efficient as lights, they'll usually do a pretty good job of keeping the damaging chill away.   Generous and consistent use of foam/foil panels in your RV windows will greatly improve heat retention and interior comfort and reduce propane consumption.  You may need snow tires or tire chains to fit your RV tires for safe winter travel.  I like to use an old foam sleeping pad to lie on when installing tire chains.   Not only is it more comfortable than lying on cold, wet pavement or gravel, it helps keep you up off the snow or wet ground.

When using park hookups in winter you will need to wrap your water hose AND the faucet with heat tape.  Leaving the hose attached will defeat the self-draining features of the frost-free faucets and both the hose and the plumbing may freeze -- and YOU will be liable to the campground for the cost of repairs.  Heated fresh water hoses are convenient to use but somewhat expensive and you'll still need heat tape to protect the exposed pipe and faucet it is connected to.

Attention tent campers! Just because you don't have an RV doesn't mean you're off the hook for winterization. Your camp stoves and lanterns should be properly cleaned and stored.   Make sure your tent is clean and dry.  Loosen those tightly strapped sleeping bags so you don't destroy the loft.   Open them up and hang them freely if you can.  Go through your provisions and make sure anything that might freeze or leak is put somewhere safe.  If you have portable hot water system or a porta-potto, be sure to drain and winterize it.   Check your ice chests to be sure they have been emptied out.  Empty your canteens or hydration packs.  Then take advantage of the "indoor months" to inventory, inspect, repair, replace, or upgrade your gear as needed.

Keep cozy all winter!