Winter Again -- Winterize RVs, Boats, OHVS, and Camping Equipment

Yep, it’s winter again. For most of us, especially in the northern latitudes, it pretty much means the end of our RV, OHV, camping, and boating season. Time to winterize the vehicles, clean and stow the camping gear, and break out the hot drinks and warm sweaters. Other posts on this blog have given detailed suggestions for winterization of RVs, campers, and boats, so we won’t go into details again here. Just consider this a reminder to review the previous winterization posts and take action. Failure to properly winterize your equipment can have far reaching and often expensive consequences. One of the most obvious issues is problems with freezing temperatures that have a devastating effect on water systems. Water expands when it freezes and it does so with surprising force. Freezing in little cracks in concrete sidewalks and driveways can completely destroy them. Freezing water tanks, pipes, and fixtures often cause damage in addition to the destruction of the items themselves so you want to be sure your water systems are protected if you expect freezing weather. Small engines, like those on motorcycles, personal water craft, and home maintenance equipment like lawn mowers are susceptible to fuel problems if fuel is left in the system for an extended period while the machine is not in use. Modern ethanol gasoline is does particularly nasty things to carburetors. It is a good idea to drain the all the fuel from the fuel tank, then run the motor until it stops to empty the carburetor. If you chose to leave fuel in the tank, be sure to add a fuel stabilizer to prevent it from going bad over the winter. And don’t forget other fuel-powered items such as lanterns and camping stoves.

When storing RVs, be sure to clean them thoroughly and remove any perishable foodstuffs. It is surprising how pests can find their way into even sealed plastic containers. We once had to throw out cases of MRIs from our fire department wildfire stash because rodents had chewed through the mylar packaging. Their ability to chew through it wasn’t surprising but how they could tell there was food sealed inside kind of was. I guess even the sealed mylar containers allow enough odor to escape to attract them. Heavier plastic containers similar to Tupperware, might protect things better, but, to be on the safe side, remove ANY THING that might attract pests. 

Cooler winter weather often contributes to condensation inside stored vehicles and vessels.   It is a good idea to provide some kind of moisture control.  If you have access to 120 volt power where your unit is stored you might use an electric de-humidifier.  The ones I've seen sell for about $50 to $80. Lacking power you can use chemical moisture eliminators.  I get mine at Dollar Tree.  They are small and I usually have to swap them out a few time each winter, but they do absorb moisture from the air.  You can tell when they need to be replaced because all the white granuals will have dissolved and the bottom of the container will be filled with clear water.  Or buy larger sized bags at your home center or online.  For example, amazon.com offers a 4-pack Boat Dehumidifier bag for $17.99.

 Camping equipment other than items that may contain water (canteens, water heaters, thermoses, etc.) are often forgotten, but proper storage is essential to prevent damage and make sure they are safe and ready to use next season. Sleeping bags should NOT be tightly rolled. If you have a place to do so, hang them so they can stay dry, air out, and the loft can expand. If you can’t hang them, put them in a stuff bag but don’t pull the cords too tight. As a last resort, unroll them and hang them for a few hours to let any residual moisture evaporate, then gently fold them for storage.  Leaving them tightly rolled like you do them for packing is a sure way to destroy the loft and make them unusable the next time you get them out after lengthy storage.  Make sure other fabric items, such as back packs, ground clothes, tarps, and tents, are dry before storage. Storing things wet is an open invitation to mold and mildew which, at the very least, makes them unpleasant to use next season and can often cause permanent aesthetic and even structural damage.

Batteries need special attention also. Vehicle batteries may need to be removed and placed where they will be protected from freezing. Using a ”trickle” charger to maintain the charge will significantly lower the freezing point if you want to leave them in the vehicle. It is best to remove batteries from dry cell appliances, like lanterns and flashlights. Electronic equipment should be stored safely in a warm, dry place with a fairly stable temperature. Frequent swings between hot and cold can cause condensation to build up internally and damage them, especially if they are in a humid environment. Interestingly enough, some dry cell batteries may benefit from being stored in a refrigerator.  If you don't want to remove dry cell batteries, consider flipping one around backwards to interrupt the circuit so the batteries won't get drained if the switch gets accidentally turned on.

Camping clothing should be cleaned and stored safely. If you choose to leave it hanging in an RV closet or folded in a drawer in your boat or camper, be sure to add some moth balls or used dryer cloths to discourage insects. I like using used dryer clothes. It is a nice way to recycle stuff that would otherwise just go into the trash and get extra use of out of otherwise disposable items and it leaves a pleasant scent, unlike the potent, nasty smell of moth balls.

Periodic inspections throughout the winter are a good idea. Take a few minutes to look over your stored RV, OHV, or boat every week or so to make sure everything is all right. If wind or weather has begun to damage things or there is evidence of pest intrusion, the sooner you discover it and can mitigate the problem, the less damage there will be. A broken limb that makes a hole in the roof of your camper isn’t TOO big a problem if you can find it and repair the hole before it allows a lot more weather to get in and create more significant damage. Getting rid of pests quickly can mean the difference between an unpleasant and inconvenient infestation and total loss of some items or even and entire RV!

 Winter is a good time to review and reflect on last season’s activities. Snuggle up in front of the fireplace in your favorite blanket with a hot beverage in your hand and read some of your camping diary. Or re-read your favorite RV or camping magazines and begin planning fun things to do in the upcoming season. Youtube has an endless supply of interesting and often useful and informative videos on just about any subject that may interest you. I have found the videos on camping and survival to be the most appealing and helpful to me. Brush up on your fire starting skills. Even if you have a nice gas log lighter to get your fireplace going, practice building your fire the right way, using appropriate tinder, kindling and perhaps flint and steel or some other “survival” method of starting a fire.  

While thinking about winterizing your recreational equipment you might want to think about winterizing your home too.  Sprinkler systems should be shut off and drained.  If you are on a well you might need to activate a heater or at least a 100 watt incandescent light bulb in your pump house to prevent exposed pipes from freezing.  You may have to shop around to find the 100 watt bulb as they seem to have been discontinued as a knee-jerk reaction to claims of global warming.  Drain and store garden hoses,  And don't forget to stock up firewood for your fireplace or wood stove.  Our current residence lacks both a fireplace and a stove but we still enjoy a fire in our R2D2 fire pit in our picnic area.  R2D2 is an old washing machine tub.

Stay warm, stay healthy, be safe, and get ready for another outstanding outdoor season!