How you go about setting up camp will depend on several factors, mostly what kind of RV you have, if any, and where and when you are camping. Other factors include weather, terrain, what kind of optional equipment you have and how many people you have to help you and to keep track of. It will make a difference whether you are group camping with other people or camping solo. Camping and RVing are great family activities. There will be many benefits to sharing responsibilities for setting up camp with other family members, including children. One major advantage is they will feel more a part of the excursion if they are involved. They will also have the opportunity to learn responsibility and gain valuable camping and survival skills. On top of that, setting up camp will be a lot easier and go a lot faster when tasks are divided among several campers instead of all falling on one person. Admittedly, teaching children will initially take more time than doing it yourself, but the investment will pay great dividends in their personal development and eventually will take some of the load off you. Besides, it is fun to watch them! While tent camping may mean a lot more setup, just positioning and leveling an RV and getting camp equipment unpacked and set up will take some time. The better and more practiced your routine, the faster it will go. Many campers, especially children, are super anxious to begin the planned recreational activities so it is easy to put off some aspects of setting up your camp. Try not to fall into the trap of rushing off to play without getting setup. You will almost always find your stay more enjoyable if you are organized to start with. Setting up camp can be a fun activity in itself. Some of us are perfectionists and prefer to do things ourselves. We each like things done in a specific way and often have difficulty delegating tasks to others. True, the first time it may actually take more time to show them what to do than to do it ourselves, but with a little practice and patience, we can give others an opportunity to learn and share in essential tasks, taking off some of the load and getting everyone on to the other fun stuff faster. Getting everything setup when you arrive leaves you free to enjoy the rest of your stay. Putting it off until later often introduces extra work and takes extra time. You might find yourself trying to do a lot of things in the dark! Better to be well organized to start with. I even like to prepare my campfire so all I have to do is light it when I'm ready.
A primary consideration for both RV and tent campsites is finding a level spot to set up. In most established campgrounds this isn't a problem, but it can be a serious issue when boondocking. The closer the spot is to level, the better. RVs need to be level for comfort and so the refrigerator will work properly. Tent sites need to be level so you don't roll or slide down the hill while you're sleeping. If you MUST set up in a location that isn't level, try to orient your RV so the front wheels are down hill. That way it is easier to drive up on leveling blocks or, if you're lucky enough to have hydraulic levelers, they won't lift your back wheels off the ground. The back wheels are usually where your parking brakes are and lifting them off the ground lets the RV roll. If you can't level your RV, try to orient it so your feet will be downhill when you're sleeping. If you have to set up your tent on an sloping side, orient it so your feet will be downhill. If you lie across the hill you will roll. If your head is downhill, stomach bile will creep back up your throat during the night and that is definitely not a good way to get night's sleep. Dinner doesn't taste so good that second or third time around! Stomach acid creeping up in your throat will also give you a sore throat.
Motorhomes are about the easiest to setup in camp. Often all you have to do is pull into your assigned space and, if you're in a campground with hookups, connect your water, power and sewer. You probably won't need to hook up the sewer hose until you are ready to dump you tanks. Setting up right away leaves it out in the sun longer causing it to deteriorate faster and it may be a trip hazard or might be damaged if someone steps on it. You won't need it until the black water tank is at least 1/2 to 2/3 full. If the space isn't level you may have to do some leveling and you will want to activate any stabilizing system you may be using. Automatic levelers make leveling and stabilizing really easy. Automatic levelers usually work in two stages. When you first activate them, the leveling jacks swing down. This allows you to place "jack boots" under the jacks to spread the load and keep them from sinking into softer surfaces. The second stage senses the position of the RV and lowers each jack as necessary until the RV is level. If you have a manual leveling system you will have to operate each jack as needed until the RV is level.
Trailers may need to be disconnected from the tow vehicle to be leveled and stabilized. Other than that, setting them up is very much like setting up a motorhome. Sometimes a space may be too short for your tow vehicle to remain connected to the trailer and you'll have to park beside the trailer or in another designated location. Even if there is enough room, you may need to disconnect in order to be able to adjust the height of the front of the trailer in order to level it. You can usually achieve front to back leveling raising or lowering the tongue jack.. Side to side discrepancies will required the use of jacks or leveling blocks.
Once you have parked, leveled, and stabilized your motorhome or trailer, connect to park facilities (if available), extend your awning(s), and roll out and stake down your awning mat. If you plan to use your own picnic table or BBQ, get it out and set it up. You will probably want to close all the curtains, shades, or drapes both for privacy and temperature control. Closing window coverings keeps the interior cooler in summer and warmer in winter. Start your water heater and make sure your refrigerator is working. If the weather is cool, start your furnace. If it is hot, start your generator and turn on your air conditioning. Unload fire wood and stack it somewhere convenient to your fire pit, but at a safe distance so it won't be ignited by sparks or blowing embers. If you plan to watch over the air TV, raise the antenna and aim it in the direction of the station. If you use a satellite system, align your dish. If you weren't traveling with the water heater on, turn it on now.
Tent Camping. We'll start with the basics. Many aspects of tent camping will apply to camping in an RV as well. First, locate your camp site. If you're in a developed campground, your site will be assigned at check-in time. Sites are usually identified by numbered posts or signs where you park. Most sites in developed campgrounds will include a picnic table and fire pit. Park your vehicle, taking care to stay within the bounds of your assigned paved or graveled parking area. Do NOT drive over grass or landscaping unless instructed to do so by your camp host and NEVER allow your vehicle to intrude into another camp site or public area or hang over into the roadway or pathways. Inspect your site and decided where to put your tent. Ideally it should be upwind and uphill from the fire pit and from any nearby toilet facilities. An appropriate "pad" is usually provided in developed campgrounds -- a fairly level area cleared of major debris. Usually it will be a nice grassy spot. When in remote locations you'll have to identify and clear your own pad. Unload your tent and other major components, such as ice chests and stoves. Survey your chosen or assigned site to determine how to make the best use of available features and improvements. Your options may be limited when you are in a developed campground but when camping in a primitive site you may be able to design your own camp layout. Find a safe place for your fire pit and try to place it downwind of your tent and your vehicles if possible. In a developed campground, set up your tent upwind from the permanent fire pit. I would set up my camp kitchen near the fire and close to any sources of water if I can. Choose a level spot within your designated site, clear of rocks, twigs, and other debris to set up your tent. Make sure you have enough overhead clearance if you choose a spot under trees. Lay out a ground cloth if you are going to use one beneath your tent. Ground cloths help protect tent floors from dirt, punctures and ground moisture. Tarps are usually sturdier than the thin fabric of tent floors. Just be careful that your ground cloth does not extend beyond the edges of your tent. If it does, it will collect and funnel any moisture (rain, dew, melted snow) under your tent! Personally, I like to use a ground cloth inside my tent too. That way I am sure my sleeping bags will be protected against ground moisture but it doesn't protect the tent floor from stuff on the ground the way one beneath the tent will. Using both gives maximum protection against unwanted moisture from the ground reaching your sleeping bag and spoiling your night's sleep as well as protecting the tent floor. Roll out the tent and stake down the corners. Then erect the poles according to the manufacturer's instructions. If you can set up the poles without staking down the corners, do so. Then crawl into your tent, roll out your sleeping bag, and make sure there aren't any sticks or stones beneath you. It is a lot easier to move the tent and clear the obstacles before you stake it down. Weather permitting, open windows and/or doors to allow the tent to air out. It will probably be a little musty from being in storage since your last trip. Set up your air mattresses or roll out your sleeping pads or install foam floor tiles if you're using them, then roll out your sleeping bags on top of them. Rolling out your sleeping bags in advance allows the compressed filling to expand and restore "loft" and insulation before you need it. If they have been rolled up for a long time, it might be a good idea to hang them outside where the breeze can help freshen and fluff them up. It may also help "air out" any musty odors that may have accumulated in storage. Hopefully you can leave room in your tent to store other items and for undressing and dressing. If you are using a small pup or pop-up tent, there may only be room for your sleeping bags and any other gear will have to be stored elsewhere. In good weather you may be able to leave it outside, but if the weather is bad or if you suspect your gear may be subject to theft or tampering, cover it with a tarp or put it back in your vehicle. I like to use a tent sized for one more person than will be occupying it so we have extra room for dressing and undressing and for gear.
Next, set up your camp kitchen. You want this to be safe, convenient, and easy to use. It should be downwind from your tent and your vehicles. You may want to use one end of the site picnic table (if available) as a convenient place to put your stove, ice chest, and water jugs. Lacking a table you might use the tailgate or trunk of your vehicle. You should keep your non-perishable foodstuffs in plastic tubs that can be easily stored back in your vehicle along with coolers for perishables when you're done with meals to prevent animals from getting into them. Even metal coolers aren't enough to stop bears from helping themselves to your goodies. Old-timers sometimes hang their provisions high in a tree to keep them safe, but putting them back in your vehicle is much easier, although bears have a been known to break into vehicles in search of food. There are portable camp kitchen support systems that can also be used if you have room to transport them. They usually fold up into a compact bundle and are made of aluminum so they are light weight and easy to transport and relieve your dependence on having a picnic table available when you arrive. These stands often include a place for your camp stove, racks for utensils and condiments, some (usually limited) counter space, sometimes a portable sink, and maybe even a spot for your ice chest. Set up and check your camp lanterns. If you have battery powered lanterns you need only verify battery and bulb condition. For gas-powered lanterns, you will need to check the fuel level and the condition of the mantles. Be careful fueling liquid gas lanterns. Use a funnel and stay far away from any open flames, including the pilot lights on your water heater and fridge! Mantles in gas lanterns, once installed, are made of ash and are very fragile and easily damaged in transport so bring plenty of spares. If the mantle is damaged, replace it before it gets dark. Also be sure to make sure you have a trash can or trash bag convenient to your cooking area. I sometimes bring along a portable sink when tent camping. It is made of plastic and has a built in reservoir and pump for the water. It isn't large enough for doing dishes, but it is great for personal hygiene, such as brushing your teeth, shaving, and washing your hands and face.
If you are tent camping in a primitive area without any restrooms you'll need to choose an area for a latrine. For a short stay you may just dig individual holes as needed but if you're going to be there for several days or have a bunch of people in your group, you might want to dig a trench latrine for added convenience. Make sure all latrines are downwind from your camp site and at least 200' away from any lake, stream, pond, spring, or well.
Set up your campfire. If it is cold, you may want to get the campfire going sooner rather than later so you have a place to warm up during other camp chores, but for ideal camping weather you probably won't need it until evening, long after everything else is ready to go. Even then, I like to set mine up when I set up camp so all I have to do is light it when I'm ready to use it. If you are in a developed or even a previously used primitive campground, there will probably be an existing fire pit. If you are in a remote area, you may have to build your own fire ring or use a portable fire pit. In any case, you'll want to get your fire set up and ready to light before it gets dark so it will be ready to just light when you need it most. Unload your firewood and stack it neatly where it will be convenient to use by safe from sparks. Clean out and repair rock fire rings, then set up your fire for later lighting. See my previous post on Campfire Safety for additional tips on campfires.
Set up optional camp equipment. You may have camp chairs, a dining fly to shade your picnic table and protect it from rain and bird droppings, and games or recreational equipment to be unpacked and set up. If your activities include OHVs or other motorized toys you will want to get them unloaded and prepared for use. If there is a likelihood of bad weather, cover outside equipment with tarps and secure them so they won't blow away. If the weather is TOO bad, consider postponing getting things out until it clears up a bit. If you're using a Sun Shower, fill the bag and hang it or lay it out in the sun to heat. If you have an awning mat, roll it out and stake it down so it doesn't blow away if the wind kicks up.
If you are RV camping in a remote or primitive area, try to use a previously used camp site. This will avoid unnecessary environmental damage and will make setting up your camp easier for you, especially if there is an existing fire pit. Sometimes you can see where other RVs have been parked and this may save you time and effort locating an appropriately level spot. Most group camps are set up around a central fire pit, so locating the fire pit may help you identify potential camp sites. Then follow the same procedures as you would in a developed campground (except you won't have any hookups), once again taking care not to encroach on any neighboring campers. If you must set up in a pristine area, do your best to minimize the footprint you leave and take advantage of level areas and any natural features that may provide protection from wind or rain. Avoid camping in depressions or dry washes, especially if there is any chance of rain. Even if the rain is many miles away, flash floods can arrive with surprising speed and force in a previously dry creek bed or wash and quickly inundate low lying areas.
RV Camping with hookups. Setting up camp with your RV is a mostly matter of locating your assigned space, properly parking and leveling your vehicle, and connecting to the camp ground hook ups. Some campgrounds don't offer full hookups so you will have to adapt to what is available and hook up what you can. Always keep all of your vehicles on the paved or graveled parking areas unless otherwise instructed by the campground host. Once you have parked your vehicle, proceed to block it securely and stabilize or level it. Then connect shore power, water lines, and sewer hoses. It is a good idea to carry a volt-meter with you to check voltage at camp sites. Low or high voltage can damage your converter and any electronic equipment you may have on board. It is also surprising how often you may find sites that are mis-wired. Sometimes extension cords are mis-wired also. I once had a brand new heavy duty extension cord that was cross wired, so be sure to test your cords as well as the receptacles. There is a simple, inexpensive device you can plug into any standard 15 or 20 amp 120 volt outlet to confirm the wiring is correct. They are available at some RV stores and in hardware stores and home centers. A combination of lights indicate the status of the outlet and can warn you of wiring errors before they can damage your RV's electrical system or equipment. If the voltage is low or high (below 110 volts or over 130 volts)or the receptacle is mis-wired, DO NOT plug your RV into the camp receptacles. Report the problem to the campground manager. Connect your fresh water hose (use only a white, potable water hose -- ordinary garden hoses will give your water a plastic taste) to the faucet at your campsite. Make sure you are using YOUR faucet, and not one intended for a neighboring site. Sometimes hydrants are placed between sites and shared by more than one site. Use an inline pressure regulator to protect your RV plumbing from excessive city water pressure. Water pressure can vary significantly from place to place and even from time to time during the day and you want to be sure you are protected from unexpected surges that might rupture lines or damage faucet seals inside your RV. I like to put mine between the faucet and the hose so it protects the hose as well as the RV plumbing. Connect your sewer line. If your RV has separate dump valves for the gray water and black water tanks, connect the sewer line to the gray water tank and to the dump pipe and then open the gray water valve completely. If you have a single dump port, connect the hose from that dump port to the dump pipe and then open ONLY your gray water dump valve. You need to leave the black water valve closed to let the black water tank fill at least half full before dumping it to prevent the accumulation of solid wastes that are left behind when liquids quickly drain off if the valve is left open. Some people recommend letting the gray water tank also fill before dumping it, but that usually isn't necessary. Some commercial campgrounds offer extra-cost cable TV and telephone hook ups. If your RV is so-equipped and the campground offers these service, connect the cable TV and Phone lines. Make sure all your electrical lines and hoses are flat on the ground or mark them with bright ribbons so passersby won't trip over them, which could disconnect them or cause someone to be injured. Many campgrounds these days offer wifi Internet service. You won't need a physical connection, but you will need to get the login information from the campground host to be able to use your laptop in your RV. You should try out your Internet connection so you can seek assistance from the host before you really need access if you have any problems. Now turn on the faucet and verify that you have water at all fixtures inside your RV. Make sure your main propane valve is opened. Start your water heater. Most modern heaters have an electronic ignition that only requires you to turn on the switch at the control panel. Older units may require you to light the pilot light. Be sure to carefully follow the lighting instructions on the water heater to avoid injury to you or damage to the water heater. If the weather is cool, start your furnace. Like water heaters, most only require you to turn on a switch and set the thermostat. Some use the thermostat alone, in which case just setting the desired temperature is all that is desired. In hot weather, turn on the roof A/C. If the inside of your RV is warmer than it is outside, air it out before turning on the A/C. Open a few windows to allow cross-ventilation and/or turn on any powered roof vents to evacuate hot air. Remember that hot air rises, so powered or even unpowered roof vents will let the hottest air out the fastest. Check the status of your refrigerator to make sure it is functioning. Light the stove briefly to ensure it is operating correctly. This gives you a chance to diagnose and correct any problems prior to dinner time! It also clears air from the propane lines. If you weren't running the refrigerator in transit (which I normally do), turn on the fridge. If you have a problem with any appliance and do not have the knowledge, skills, or tools to diagnose and correct it, check with the campground manager. Often these folks are able to help you resolve problems themselves or can put you in contact with local mobile RV technicians who can come right to your RV to fix things for you on the spot. If your RV doesn't have a permanent bed, unpack your bedding so it can air out and restore loft to sleeping bags so they'll be ready to crawl into when bedtime rolls around. If the campground offers Internet service either connect a cable to the port on the pedestal or obtain the wifi password from the office. Wifi is more common than hardwired Internet in campgrounds.
You may now want to roll out your awning mat and open your awning. Awning mats help catch dirt, mud, sand and debris before it gets tracked into you RV and helps define a pleasant patio sitting area. Even if you don't have a full size patio mat, even a small welcome mat outside your rig will help keep dirt outside. If the mat is on gravel or grass you can stake it down with spike-type tent stakes to keep breezes from attempting to relocate it. When camping on asphalt, I use a Hilti style rim-fire nail gun to literally nail the mat down. In either case, you will want to have prepared your mat by installing grommets at appropriate locations (all 4 corners, appropriate spacing along long sides, and on either side of where your RV steps hang out over the mat). In a pinch you can drive stakes or nails directly through the mat, but the grommets will protect the mat from tearing. I usually use large washers on the stakes or nails to secure the grommets and reduce the potential for tearing the mat if the wind kicks up. It also gives you a better way to remove them later when the time comes to go home. Weather permitting, you may want to extend your patio awning and window awnings if you have them. The awnings will help keep your RV cooler and the patio awning will provide shelter from sun and light rain and further define a pleasant outdoor living area. Never open your awnings when there are high winds and avoid using them during heavy precipitation. If it starts to rain after you've set up, lower one corner of the awning to encourage run-off and avoid puddling.
Welcome mats are useful for both tent and RV camping. Having a place to wipe your feet before entering your abode will reduce tracking dirt inside. An old burlap bag makes an excellent door mat. The rough texture is good at scraping sand, dirt, snow, and mud off your shoes. It folds up small so it takes up little room in transit and you can easily wash it out when it gets dirty. Usually all you have to do his hose it off and hang it up to dry.
You may then want to proceed with preparing your campfire and any optional camping equipment you have brought along as describe above for tent camping.
RV Camping "off-grid". Camping without hookups, also known as boondocking, dry camping, or being off-grid differs from camping with hookups in that you have to rely on the self-contained features of your RV and you probably won't have a graded parking area. The initial steps are basically the same as for camping with hookups. That is, locate your site and park, level, and stabilize your unit. If you are truly boondocking in a remote area, there will not be designated camp sites and you will have to select an appropriate place to camp. I recommend searching first for areas that have been previously used. That way you avoid unnecessary damage to the environment and save yourself some work setting up your camp. You may also take advantage of the effort someone else has already gone to to find the most level place to park and will probably have already discovered any unseen obstacles and found a way around them. Parking under trees is appealing, especially in warm weather, but if it is now or gets windy, broken and falling branches may seriously damaged the roof of your RV and birds may roost above your unit and make unpleasant deposits on it and you! Since you have no water, electric, or sewer hookups, at this point you need only turn on your water pump and verify you have water at your fixtures and start your water heater. Then check the fridge, stove, and furnace or A/C. To run the A/C you will need to start the generator. Let it warm up for 5 minutes or so before starting the A/C. If the generator shuts off or gets shut off while the A/C is running, wait at least 5 minutes for the "head pressure" in the compressor to bleed off before restarting the A/C to avoid damage to the A/C and reduce stress on the genset. Now proceed to set up the rest of your camp as described above for tent camping. I have seen some campers in remote locations connect a garden hose to special cap on their gray water tanks to allow gray water to be drained some distance away from their vehicles. In most places this practice is forbidden or even illegal and should be avoided. It might be permitted in some very dry desert situations. Care must always be taken to route the hose far away from ANY vehicle or equipment and where the water won't run back into any area where there is a vehicle, people, or equipment. I have seen people stick the end of the hose into a hole in the ground, but remember, something had to make the hole and is probably still living down there! Stuffing a hose into it might stir up a rattlesnake and that could spoil your whole day! At the least you will be creating an unpleasant hazard for the occupants and may even drown them! Your holding tanks are designed and intended for holding waste water. Except in very unusual circumstances you should use them. NEVER, EVER drain black water onto or into the ground. It MUST properly disposed of in an appropriate dump station.
OHV Considerations. If you are on an OHV outing, you will want to unload your OHVs and prepare them for use. Top off fuel tanks, lubricate cables and drive chains, check all lights, check tire pressure. Do a quick check for any loose fasteners. Better to spend a few minutes tightening screws now than losing parts on the trail! You may find it helpful to rope off or mark off a parking area for your OHVs near your RV or trailer so you'll have a convenient place to put them to park and service them again when you return from your ride. I have an awning on my enclosed motorcycle trailer I like to park my bikes under. It defines my parking space and helps protect the seats and plastic components from the sun and will keep off any unwanted moisture, like rain, snow, or dew. Most OHV seats are a dark color and can get very hot if left in the sun. If you can't park in the shade, you may want to throw a tarp or at least a towel over the seat. If its breezy out you may need to tie it down to keep it from blowing off. Unpack your riding gear and inspect and organize it so it is easy to put on when you're ready to ride. Fill your canteens or hydration packs. Be considerate of fellow campers. Push your OHVs some distance away from other campers before starting them early in the morning and never "hot dog" or show off in or near camp. Ride slowly in and out of camp to prevent stirring up dust that will annoy other campers and foul your own outdoor gear and equipment. Dust seldom enhances the view and is not a very desirable condiment for hamburgers, steaks, or any meal and never enhances breathing! When leaving your OHVs outside overnight, be sure to secure them with chains or cables and locks. Personally I have never had any problems or seen any among my fellow riders, but we all pretty much lock up our rides at night and it is always better to be safe than sorry. There was one time when anti-OHV folks sabotaged some of our bikes while we were performing volunteer trail maintenance with the U.S. Forest Service, so it is always a good idea to secure them where someone can keep an eye on them.
Winter Camping. Setting up a winter camp requires some special consideration. You may find it helpful to shovel the snow off your site and from around your picnic area before parking. Even finding the proper parking area in a developed campground or locating a safe parking place while boondocking can be made more difficult when the ground is covered with snow. If you are using hookups, you will need to bring heat tape to prevent your hose and the campground faucet from freezing. It is a good idea to get out and walk the space and look for obstacles or holes that may be hidden in the snow and could cause damage to your vehicle or cause you to get stuck before you enter the site. If you are tent camping in the winter you may need to clear away the snow to create a smooth and solid place to set up your tent. Tent pegs may not hold well in snow so you'll need to be able drive them into the ground (which may be frozen!) or devise an alternate form of anchor you can bury in the snow. I carry some large nails (about 10"-12" long) to use in hard or frozen ground. They are sturdier and easier to drive than regular tent pegs. You may also face dangers from accumulated snow falling from overhead branches so it is not a good idea to set up your tent under branches where snow could accumulate. Heat rising from campfires, camp stoves, and even your tent or RV or any little breeze that happens to come along can also cause overhead snow to melt and fall into the fire or stove, so seek an open spot for your campfire or using your stove.
Now, have fun!
Information on recreational vehicles (RVs) and Off Highway Vehicles (OHVs), Camping, Sailing, and Survival
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
Saturday, February 26, 2011
Spring Cleaning
OK, it still being February, we may be jumping the gun a little to talk about spring cleaning, but it isn't really that far away. And the sooner you discover any needed repairs, the more time you'll have to take care of them before your first outing. Of course, if you are still experiencing below-freezing temperatures you won't want to de-winterize your fresh water and holding tanks just yet. Wait until the freezing weather is over. But you can get a head start on a lot of other tasks.
General Exterior Cleaning. After sitting all winter, your RV is going to be in need of a good bath, even if its been kept under cover or in a garage or shed. Begin by carefully sweeping dirt and any accumulated debris from the roof. If your RV has been stored outside, especially if it was parked under trees, inspect the roof for damage from falling branches and bird droppings. Check the caulking of all seams and around all vents and fixtures on the roof. If the caulking is cracked, it should be removed and replaced. Then, if it isn't still below freezing outside, wash the roof and the rest of the RV as described in a previous post (Maintaining Your RVs Exterior Appearance). Remember that when you are washing your RV is good time to check for leaks. Run a little extra clean rinse water around vents, air conditioners, windows and doors and check inside for any evidence of leakage.
Roof repairs. One of the most common roof problems will be dried and cracked caulk. Carefully remove all the old caulk. A plastic putty knife usually works pretty well with less risk of damaging the surface below than a steel scraper. Rubber coated roofs are especially susceptible to damage when removing old caulk so be extra careful. Then apply a generous coating of new caulk over all screws and rivets and along the edges of all attachments. Punctures: punctures should be repaired as soon as possible. Small punctures, say up to the size of a dime, can be sealed with silicone or another sealer compatible with the roofing on most roof surfaces. Larger holes, such as might be made by a falling tree branch, will need to be patched first. Really big holes will require major roof repairs, better left to a professional as it involves removing and replacing an entire roof section. For manageable sized holes, up to perhaps 4" across, you may be able to get by with external patches. First obtain some suitable patching material, such as sheet aluminum or tin. I have successfully used commercial dry-wall patches from my local home center on 2-3" holes. They may be made of aluminum or fiberglass mesh and some are even self-adhesive. If you use tin or steel you will have to worry about rust. Aluminum, plastic, or fiberglass won't rust. Cut a piece about 2" larger than the hole. Sop up any water that may be in the hole and carefully use heat gun or hair dryer to dry it out before covering it over. Apply a generous amount of caulk around the hole and press the patch in place, making sure the patch overlaps the hole all around and the caulk extends out beyond the edges of the patch. Large patches may need to screwed down to make sure they are secure. Use short screws to reduce the risk of penetrating wiring or even punching through the ceiling or hitting wiring inside. Then coat the entire patch, including any screws and all edges with caulk to form a completely waterproof seal. It may not look pretty, but it will keep out the weather, and, hey!, who's gonna see it up there anyway? Whenever using any caulk or sealant, make sure it is compatible with your roof. You should not use any petroleum-based sealants on rubber roofs.
Check all the lights, including clearance lights. Replace any burned out bulbs and correct any bad grounds or loose wiring or blown fuses. Loose or corroded ground connections are a very frequent cause of lighting problems on all kinds of RVs. Problems may occur at fixtures or elsewhere, such as where a ground wire is connected to the vehicle ground. Replace or repair any damaged lenses. Be sure to check any auxiliary lights, such as porch lights or work lights, step lights, and exterior cabinet lights.
Clean wheels and tires and check lug nuts and tire inflation, wear, and condition. You can use a penny to measure tire tread depth. Hold the penny so you can put the edge with the top of Lincoln's head into the tread. If the top if his head is covered, your tread is OK. If is not, you need a new tire. And don't forget to check the date codes on your tires. Many RVs get little use so tires will usually time out long before they wear out. Out-dated tires can fail unexpectedly, not only causing a lot of inconvenience, but can often cause serious and expensive accidents. Tires aren't cheap, but accidents and the damage a blow tire can do to an RV is a LOT more expensive!
Before your first trip you'll want to get a full service lube and oil change. And don't forget the generator. It also needs an oil and filter change and an air filter and fuel filter check.
Belts and hoses. Belts and hoses on motorhomes and tow vehicles are highly susceptible to environmental deterioration and should be checked frequently. They are usually fairly inexpensive to replace and can often be taken care of by the average do-it-yourself mechanic. Even if you have to pay a professional, the cost of replacing an old radiator or heater hose is far less expensive than replacing an engine if you lose coolant and the engine overheats. Another rubber part to check frequently are windshield wipers. It is easy to forget about them until you need them and find they are cracked, tattered or brittle and leave streaks or don't work at all. Again, they are pretty cheap and easy to replace. You can buy covers to protect them from the sun or just use a length of foam pipe insulation or slice foam swim "noodles" to fit over them. Either way can extend the life of wipers considerably. Sometimes you can buy wiper dressing at your auto parts store. You put some on a cloth and wipe it on the rubber edge of the wipers. You will usually see a black streak on your cloth as it removes oxidized rubber. Not only does the dressing clean the wipers, it helps condition the rubber to restore or retain flexibility. In a pinch, try gently wiping the edge that contacts the glass, even if you don't have any dressing. Often that is enough to remove debris and smooth out some of the rough spots to improve performance so you can get by until you can replace the wipers.
General Interior Cleaning. There are two good times each year to perform deep annual interior cleaning: winterizing and spring cleaning. It may seem redundant to do major cleaning without any use in between, but it really isn't. Even in storage, things can happen which require a thorough cleaning and inspection. Rodents and insects love our RVs about as much as we do, especially as safe winter homes. Our absence during the winter enhances their opportunities to make themselves at home. Transient dust can make its way inside a closed RV and soil counter tops, carpets, bedding, and upholstery. Just being all closed up for the winter can make it smell stale or somewhat musty. Go through your unit from end to end, wiping down hard surfaces (counters, cabinets, sinks, tile or vinyl floors) and vacuuming and shampooing carpets and upholstery. Use a good fabric freshener like Fabreze on cloth upholstery, drapes, rugs, and carpets. Vacuum the mattress too. You will be more comfortable and it will be healthier sleeping on a clean mattress than one that smells dusty or musty from months of storage. Clean all your windows and mirrors, inside and out using any good glass cleaner. I like the kind that also contains an anti-fog ingredient. I usually use residential aerosol furniture polish to clean cabinet faces and my favorite detail spray, SC-1, to restore luster and protection to vinyl surfaces, like the acres of dashboard in my motorhome. If you are fortunate enough to have leather seating, invest the time and a couple of extra bucks to clean and condition it with a saddle soap and a good leather cleaner such as Leather Balm. Good old fashioned saddle soap does a good job cleaning badly soiled leather seats. You can give any special woodwork (such as hand rails) extra attention using a beeswax based polish.
Take inventory of your on board utensils, cooking supplies, cleaning supplies, linens, and clothing. Now is a good time to replace any missing or damaged items and get rid of redundant, outdated, or unused stuff. It is also helpful to make sure everything is stored in its proper place. Socks in the silverware drawer and spatulas in the shoe drawer won't be of much use when it comes time to get up, get dressed, and prepare breakfast in camp!
Check out all appliances. You will want to make sure all appliances are functioning normally. Turn on the water and make sure you get water to all fixtures. Run the fridge for a day or so to make sure it is working right. Fire up the furnace and water heater. Light the burners and oven on the stove. Run your generator and test roof A/C units and microwave oven. I unplug my motorhome from shore power and run the generator to power the microwave to boil a cup of water, testing both systems at once. Test all your electronics (radios, TVs, VCRs, DVDs, satellite receivers). Now is a good time to replace the batteries in your remote controls, smoke detectors, and test gas detectors too. Check furnace vents, refrigerator cooling coils, and refrigerator and hot water heater burners and remove any debris or insect infestation.
De-winterizing. When weather permits, you will want to de-winterize your plumbing systems and make them ready for use. First, run the water pump and allow any antifreeze in the lines and fixtures to drain out. Then add some water to your fresh water tank so you can flush the lines and fixtures. You may want to sanitize your fresh water system as described in a previous post ( Post Trip Procedures) to ensure odor free, good tasting water. When you have finished sanitizing your fresh water system, refill the fresh water tank. Take your RV to a dump station and dump and flush the holding tanks and add the proper amount of appropriate holding tank chemicals.
Chassis Preparation. Your motorhome chassis or your tow vehicle needs a little TCL before you start out on your first trip of the year. In addition to a full service oil and lube, check all the belts and hoses. Replace any hoses that are cracked, leaking or feel spongy when you squeeze them or have become brittle. Belts that squeal or are glazed or frayed should be replaced. There are sprays to renew fan belts and it is probably a good idea to carry a can in case of emergencies. However, don't try to substitute a quick fix for replacing seriously worn or stretched out belts. Belts will stretch over time, so you may need to adjust them. Many newer engines have belt tensioners that automatically take up the slack of normal expansion as the belts heat up in operation and stretch over time but the only solution for older models is to adjust or replace the belt. Loose belts can cause serious problems, such as over heating and loss of output from the alternator. Keeping your fan and serpentine belts in good condition is a very wise investment that can save you hours of frustration on the road and tons of money in repairs.
If you are towing a trailer, check the receiver, hitch, and electrical connections. The tiny screws that hold the wiring inside of trailer connectors have been known to work loose due to vibration and cause shorts within the connector. You can test the functionality of the connector on the tow vehicle using a test light. Be sure to test running lights, left and right turn signals, and brake lights. Clearance lights are on the same circuit as park lights. If you have a trailer brake or a trailer battery charging lead, be sure to test these as well. If any lead fails to light up, take the connector apart and check the screws inside and test the wiring directly. If there is power at the wires but not in the connector, the contacts in the connector are probably corroded. You may be able to clean them, but the best long term solution is to replace the connector. Examine the receiver and the hitch for any signs of wear or cracking. I've seen hitches fail where the ball mount is welded to the tube that fits into the receiver, dropping the trailer tongue smack into the dirt! Far better to discover failing parts and replace them now than have them fall apart on the road! Be sure to test your trailer brakes. You don't want to learn they aren't working when you have to make an emergency stop or negotiate a long downhill. By then it is too late!
Tools and Supplies. Spring Cleaning is a good time to take inventory of your on board tools and supplies. Over time we all tend to "borrow" tools and supplies from our RVs for home use and they don't always get put back. I usually take advantage of this time to clean and re-organize my tools and supplies too. I find taking them out and wiping them down is one of the best ways to check condition and verify inventory. Not only do I make sure nothing is missing, it helps remind me what I have and where to find it when I need it. I like to keep my tools well organized. I use socket rails and wrench holders so I find the right sizes quickly and can tell at a glance if something is missing. You might ask why bother cleaning tools when they'll just get dirty or grease again the next time you use them? Well, clean tools are safer and more pleasant to use than dirty ones. It will also be easier to detect any damage when they are clean so they can be repaired or replaced before you need them. Supplies, such as lubricants and cleaners, can develop leaks or, in the case of aerosol products, loose their propellant and/or become clogged, so check them carefully to make sure you aren't carrying around empty or useless cans.
OHV Equipment and Gear. Just like your RV, your OHVs will need to be cleaned and serviced. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for annual servicing. Clean and lubricate your vehicles. Inspect your personal gear to make sure it is clean and in good repair and that nothing is missing. You don't want to get 150 miles from home and discover you left your riding boots at home! I've seen riders wrap duct tape around their flip-flops when they've left their boots at home, but I CANNOT recommend that solution. The resulting injuries were not pleasant for them or for anyone who observed them! USE YOUR CHECKLIST. Make sure you have everything you need and it is ready to do its job.
Spring into action!
General Exterior Cleaning. After sitting all winter, your RV is going to be in need of a good bath, even if its been kept under cover or in a garage or shed. Begin by carefully sweeping dirt and any accumulated debris from the roof. If your RV has been stored outside, especially if it was parked under trees, inspect the roof for damage from falling branches and bird droppings. Check the caulking of all seams and around all vents and fixtures on the roof. If the caulking is cracked, it should be removed and replaced. Then, if it isn't still below freezing outside, wash the roof and the rest of the RV as described in a previous post (Maintaining Your RVs Exterior Appearance). Remember that when you are washing your RV is good time to check for leaks. Run a little extra clean rinse water around vents, air conditioners, windows and doors and check inside for any evidence of leakage.
Roof repairs. One of the most common roof problems will be dried and cracked caulk. Carefully remove all the old caulk. A plastic putty knife usually works pretty well with less risk of damaging the surface below than a steel scraper. Rubber coated roofs are especially susceptible to damage when removing old caulk so be extra careful. Then apply a generous coating of new caulk over all screws and rivets and along the edges of all attachments. Punctures: punctures should be repaired as soon as possible. Small punctures, say up to the size of a dime, can be sealed with silicone or another sealer compatible with the roofing on most roof surfaces. Larger holes, such as might be made by a falling tree branch, will need to be patched first. Really big holes will require major roof repairs, better left to a professional as it involves removing and replacing an entire roof section. For manageable sized holes, up to perhaps 4" across, you may be able to get by with external patches. First obtain some suitable patching material, such as sheet aluminum or tin. I have successfully used commercial dry-wall patches from my local home center on 2-3" holes. They may be made of aluminum or fiberglass mesh and some are even self-adhesive. If you use tin or steel you will have to worry about rust. Aluminum, plastic, or fiberglass won't rust. Cut a piece about 2" larger than the hole. Sop up any water that may be in the hole and carefully use heat gun or hair dryer to dry it out before covering it over. Apply a generous amount of caulk around the hole and press the patch in place, making sure the patch overlaps the hole all around and the caulk extends out beyond the edges of the patch. Large patches may need to screwed down to make sure they are secure. Use short screws to reduce the risk of penetrating wiring or even punching through the ceiling or hitting wiring inside. Then coat the entire patch, including any screws and all edges with caulk to form a completely waterproof seal. It may not look pretty, but it will keep out the weather, and, hey!, who's gonna see it up there anyway? Whenever using any caulk or sealant, make sure it is compatible with your roof. You should not use any petroleum-based sealants on rubber roofs.
Check all the lights, including clearance lights. Replace any burned out bulbs and correct any bad grounds or loose wiring or blown fuses. Loose or corroded ground connections are a very frequent cause of lighting problems on all kinds of RVs. Problems may occur at fixtures or elsewhere, such as where a ground wire is connected to the vehicle ground. Replace or repair any damaged lenses. Be sure to check any auxiliary lights, such as porch lights or work lights, step lights, and exterior cabinet lights.
Clean wheels and tires and check lug nuts and tire inflation, wear, and condition. You can use a penny to measure tire tread depth. Hold the penny so you can put the edge with the top of Lincoln's head into the tread. If the top if his head is covered, your tread is OK. If is not, you need a new tire. And don't forget to check the date codes on your tires. Many RVs get little use so tires will usually time out long before they wear out. Out-dated tires can fail unexpectedly, not only causing a lot of inconvenience, but can often cause serious and expensive accidents. Tires aren't cheap, but accidents and the damage a blow tire can do to an RV is a LOT more expensive!
Before your first trip you'll want to get a full service lube and oil change. And don't forget the generator. It also needs an oil and filter change and an air filter and fuel filter check.
Belts and hoses. Belts and hoses on motorhomes and tow vehicles are highly susceptible to environmental deterioration and should be checked frequently. They are usually fairly inexpensive to replace and can often be taken care of by the average do-it-yourself mechanic. Even if you have to pay a professional, the cost of replacing an old radiator or heater hose is far less expensive than replacing an engine if you lose coolant and the engine overheats. Another rubber part to check frequently are windshield wipers. It is easy to forget about them until you need them and find they are cracked, tattered or brittle and leave streaks or don't work at all. Again, they are pretty cheap and easy to replace. You can buy covers to protect them from the sun or just use a length of foam pipe insulation or slice foam swim "noodles" to fit over them. Either way can extend the life of wipers considerably. Sometimes you can buy wiper dressing at your auto parts store. You put some on a cloth and wipe it on the rubber edge of the wipers. You will usually see a black streak on your cloth as it removes oxidized rubber. Not only does the dressing clean the wipers, it helps condition the rubber to restore or retain flexibility. In a pinch, try gently wiping the edge that contacts the glass, even if you don't have any dressing. Often that is enough to remove debris and smooth out some of the rough spots to improve performance so you can get by until you can replace the wipers.
General Interior Cleaning. There are two good times each year to perform deep annual interior cleaning: winterizing and spring cleaning. It may seem redundant to do major cleaning without any use in between, but it really isn't. Even in storage, things can happen which require a thorough cleaning and inspection. Rodents and insects love our RVs about as much as we do, especially as safe winter homes. Our absence during the winter enhances their opportunities to make themselves at home. Transient dust can make its way inside a closed RV and soil counter tops, carpets, bedding, and upholstery. Just being all closed up for the winter can make it smell stale or somewhat musty. Go through your unit from end to end, wiping down hard surfaces (counters, cabinets, sinks, tile or vinyl floors) and vacuuming and shampooing carpets and upholstery. Use a good fabric freshener like Fabreze on cloth upholstery, drapes, rugs, and carpets. Vacuum the mattress too. You will be more comfortable and it will be healthier sleeping on a clean mattress than one that smells dusty or musty from months of storage. Clean all your windows and mirrors, inside and out using any good glass cleaner. I like the kind that also contains an anti-fog ingredient. I usually use residential aerosol furniture polish to clean cabinet faces and my favorite detail spray, SC-1, to restore luster and protection to vinyl surfaces, like the acres of dashboard in my motorhome. If you are fortunate enough to have leather seating, invest the time and a couple of extra bucks to clean and condition it with a saddle soap and a good leather cleaner such as Leather Balm. Good old fashioned saddle soap does a good job cleaning badly soiled leather seats. You can give any special woodwork (such as hand rails) extra attention using a beeswax based polish.
Take inventory of your on board utensils, cooking supplies, cleaning supplies, linens, and clothing. Now is a good time to replace any missing or damaged items and get rid of redundant, outdated, or unused stuff. It is also helpful to make sure everything is stored in its proper place. Socks in the silverware drawer and spatulas in the shoe drawer won't be of much use when it comes time to get up, get dressed, and prepare breakfast in camp!
Check out all appliances. You will want to make sure all appliances are functioning normally. Turn on the water and make sure you get water to all fixtures. Run the fridge for a day or so to make sure it is working right. Fire up the furnace and water heater. Light the burners and oven on the stove. Run your generator and test roof A/C units and microwave oven. I unplug my motorhome from shore power and run the generator to power the microwave to boil a cup of water, testing both systems at once. Test all your electronics (radios, TVs, VCRs, DVDs, satellite receivers). Now is a good time to replace the batteries in your remote controls, smoke detectors, and test gas detectors too. Check furnace vents, refrigerator cooling coils, and refrigerator and hot water heater burners and remove any debris or insect infestation.
De-winterizing. When weather permits, you will want to de-winterize your plumbing systems and make them ready for use. First, run the water pump and allow any antifreeze in the lines and fixtures to drain out. Then add some water to your fresh water tank so you can flush the lines and fixtures. You may want to sanitize your fresh water system as described in a previous post ( Post Trip Procedures) to ensure odor free, good tasting water. When you have finished sanitizing your fresh water system, refill the fresh water tank. Take your RV to a dump station and dump and flush the holding tanks and add the proper amount of appropriate holding tank chemicals.
Chassis Preparation. Your motorhome chassis or your tow vehicle needs a little TCL before you start out on your first trip of the year. In addition to a full service oil and lube, check all the belts and hoses. Replace any hoses that are cracked, leaking or feel spongy when you squeeze them or have become brittle. Belts that squeal or are glazed or frayed should be replaced. There are sprays to renew fan belts and it is probably a good idea to carry a can in case of emergencies. However, don't try to substitute a quick fix for replacing seriously worn or stretched out belts. Belts will stretch over time, so you may need to adjust them. Many newer engines have belt tensioners that automatically take up the slack of normal expansion as the belts heat up in operation and stretch over time but the only solution for older models is to adjust or replace the belt. Loose belts can cause serious problems, such as over heating and loss of output from the alternator. Keeping your fan and serpentine belts in good condition is a very wise investment that can save you hours of frustration on the road and tons of money in repairs.
If you are towing a trailer, check the receiver, hitch, and electrical connections. The tiny screws that hold the wiring inside of trailer connectors have been known to work loose due to vibration and cause shorts within the connector. You can test the functionality of the connector on the tow vehicle using a test light. Be sure to test running lights, left and right turn signals, and brake lights. Clearance lights are on the same circuit as park lights. If you have a trailer brake or a trailer battery charging lead, be sure to test these as well. If any lead fails to light up, take the connector apart and check the screws inside and test the wiring directly. If there is power at the wires but not in the connector, the contacts in the connector are probably corroded. You may be able to clean them, but the best long term solution is to replace the connector. Examine the receiver and the hitch for any signs of wear or cracking. I've seen hitches fail where the ball mount is welded to the tube that fits into the receiver, dropping the trailer tongue smack into the dirt! Far better to discover failing parts and replace them now than have them fall apart on the road! Be sure to test your trailer brakes. You don't want to learn they aren't working when you have to make an emergency stop or negotiate a long downhill. By then it is too late!
Tools and Supplies. Spring Cleaning is a good time to take inventory of your on board tools and supplies. Over time we all tend to "borrow" tools and supplies from our RVs for home use and they don't always get put back. I usually take advantage of this time to clean and re-organize my tools and supplies too. I find taking them out and wiping them down is one of the best ways to check condition and verify inventory. Not only do I make sure nothing is missing, it helps remind me what I have and where to find it when I need it. I like to keep my tools well organized. I use socket rails and wrench holders so I find the right sizes quickly and can tell at a glance if something is missing. You might ask why bother cleaning tools when they'll just get dirty or grease again the next time you use them? Well, clean tools are safer and more pleasant to use than dirty ones. It will also be easier to detect any damage when they are clean so they can be repaired or replaced before you need them. Supplies, such as lubricants and cleaners, can develop leaks or, in the case of aerosol products, loose their propellant and/or become clogged, so check them carefully to make sure you aren't carrying around empty or useless cans.
OHV Equipment and Gear. Just like your RV, your OHVs will need to be cleaned and serviced. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for annual servicing. Clean and lubricate your vehicles. Inspect your personal gear to make sure it is clean and in good repair and that nothing is missing. You don't want to get 150 miles from home and discover you left your riding boots at home! I've seen riders wrap duct tape around their flip-flops when they've left their boots at home, but I CANNOT recommend that solution. The resulting injuries were not pleasant for them or for anyone who observed them! USE YOUR CHECKLIST. Make sure you have everything you need and it is ready to do its job.
Spring into action!
Friday, February 25, 2011
Summer RVing and Camping
For the most part, summer camping is almost a no-brainer. Summer is when most of us do most of our camping so that is where most people already have some experience. Spring and fall offer mild weather, summers can be HOT! But summer usually means more opportunities to get away, especially if you have kids still in school. Moderate summer temperatures don't usually require a lot of special preparation. Even so, there are things to be considered to get the most enjoyment out of summer camping.
Hot weather preparations. Summer usually means hot weather. Sometimes we go camping at the beach or mountains to escape hot suburban summers, but there will still be plenty of hot air between you and your cool escape. Hot weather demands a certain amount of preparation for you, your vehicles, and your equipment. The cooling system on all your vehicles needs to be in good condition and properly filled with appropriate coolant. Antifreeze does more than protect your radiator from freezing. It also helps prevent corrosion and improves the ability of the coolant to carry heat away from the engine to be dissipated through the radiator. Check radiator caps and hoses and make sure the radiators are clean and not clogged or contaminated with dirt, dust, oil, insects, or debris. Bring along some extra coolant in case you should spring a leak in a hose. Make sure it is the right kind of coolant for each vehicle. Some OHVs use special, "environmentally friendly" coolants that are not compatible with the ethylene glycol normally used in automobiles. Different types of coolant are different colors. Ethylene glycol is usually green. Recent multi-purpose automobile coolants are orange. Some specialized OHV coolants are blue. You can add ordinary water to most cooling systems in an emergency (distilled water is better), but maintaining the proper mixture provides the best protection and performance. Proper coolant not only protects against freezing, it conditions the cooling system and improves cooling efficiency so maintaining the correct antifreeze mix is important year round. The normal mix for most antifreeze/coolant solutions is 50/50 -- 50% coolant, 50% water. You will often find both concentrated and pre-diluted versions of antifreeze so make sure you know what you're buying. Pre-diluted is ready to use, but usually costs about the same as an equal amount of concentrated antifreeze, which would give you twice as much to use for the same amount of money. You just have to mix it with an equal amount of water.
Personal preparation. Prepare yourself for hot weather activities by pre-hydrating your body. Drink extra water or drinks with electrolytes the day before beginning hot weather activities. Dress appropriately in loose fitting clothing that will aid cooling. Wear a hat to keep the sun off your head and shade your face and eyes. Wear eye protection (sun glasses) that limit UV rays. Wear sun-block on exposed skin. Avoid over-exposure to direct sunlight. Drink plenty of water during your activities. Carry a water bottle or canteen or wear a hydration pack and take frequent sips to compensate for loss of fluids through perspiration and breathing. Plan your activities to allow time to get out of the sun and cool off and replenish your bodily fluids. You can cool your body using a simple spray bottle. A spritz now and then is unbelievable refreshing.
Keeping your shelter (tent or RV) cool. One of the best ways to keep a tent cool and to reduce the load on RV generators, is to keep them out of the sun. Parking your RV or setting up your tent in the shade may be an option in some locations, but if thunderstorms are likely, you want to avoid tall trees or being near any tall object that could attract lightning. Also avoid camping in a depression or along a stream bed that might be subject to flash flooding. To keep your tent cooler, make sure you install the rain fly, if it has one. In addition to keeping rain off, it also provides built-in shade with a few inches of air above your tent fabric, which gets rid of a lot of heat that would transfer directly to the interior of your tent if it were in direct sunlight. For extra protection, set up a dining fly over your tent or cover it with a tarp. A white tarp will reflect more heat than a dark colored rain fly. For both tents and RVs without A/C keep the windows open and the screens closed. Try to open windows on opposite sides to create a cross breeze and open windows on the windward side to take advantage of breezes if there are any. Open the roof vents on RVs to allow hot air to escape and open windows on the shaded side to allow cooler air to come in. If you have an A/C on your RV, keep all windows closed. If you RV has an evaporative cooler you will need to keep one or more windows slightly open for proper operation. Make use of window and patio awnings to shade windows from direct sunlight when possible and/or place reflective foam insulation panels in the windows to keep the sunlight and heat out. Permanently mounted reflective tape will let you keep your view but block unwanted heat and light. You can even get self-adhesive blackout film for temporary installation if you really need to block it.
Outdoor options. To keep cool outdoors, seek shade. If there aren't trees or canopies around, use your RV awning or set up an umbrella, awning, or dining fly -- or stretch a tarp out between trees and/or vehicles to provide shade. I found the days in the Mojave Desert too hot to enjoy even sitting the shade of my RV awning so I added a mist system to the awning that greatly improved the comfort level. An easier and less expensive solution is to just use a spray bottle to create your own personal mist. I prefer to buy new spray bottles to use for mist. Re-using one that previously contained cleaning solutions risks spraying residual cleaning chemicals on your skin that could result it irritations and discomfort, especially if you happen to have sensitive skin or allergies. You can buy new spray bottles at "dollar" stores. You may be able to plumb a mist system into the existing cold water lines on an RV but I prefer to set up a separate water tank and pump so I don't risk using up my culinary water supply just to run the misters. We ran misters under the awning on our motorhome during summer dirt bike outings in the Mojave Desert and the were very effective.
Summer activities. Popular summer activities include swimming, boating, fishing, hiking, bicycling and riding OHVs and horses. Swimming, boating, and fishing usually provide plenty of opportunities to cool off in the water, but the water also reflects sunlight and increases the risk of sunburn. Hiking, bicycling, and riding OHVs and horses will require participants to provide their own cooling methods and plenty of drinking water. Many people enjoy a variety of sports such as baseball, football, basketball, and volleyball, all of which make significant demands on our bodies and require that we pay attention to staying hydrated and avoiding becoming over-heated and getting sunburned. Usually sunburn is a minor inconvenience but it is possible to even get third degree burns from the sun that can be life threatening. It is all too common for people to get so involved in an activity that they don't notice the effect of the sun until it is too late. Pay attention to your own situation and keep an eye on your friends and family and everyone in your group and let them know if they seem to be getting burned or too hot.
Cool treats are always going to be a hit when its hot out. RV refrigerators or really good ice chests may let you bring along ice cream and popcicles. We found snow cones to be especially refreshing when desert camping. I found a couple of different devices to prepare the "snow". One used its own specially frozen ice disks and created very fine shaved ice. The other one grinds ordinary ice cubes. The result is a little coarser than the shaved ice, but you can dump in bagged ice or cubes made in trays in your RV fridge. Cold drinks are also always very popular. Some people may tout some health issues with drinking ice cold beverages, but few people doubt the enjoyment and immediate refreshment they deliver when its hot out. You will also want to plan your meals to avoid hot, heavy entree's and things that require a lot of cooking.
Dressing for summer. For the most part, you already know how to dress for warm summer weather. However, there are a couple of things to consider that might not be obvious. Loose fitting long sleeved shirts and pants are usually cooler than T-shirts, tank tops, and shorts and they will protect your arms and legs against sunburn. Think about how the a Bedouins and other desert nomads dress -- loose, flowing robes that cover their entire bodies. An appropriate hat or sun shade is necessary to keep you cool. Sunglasses should be more than a fashion statement and should do more than darken your view. Good sunglasses should also provide UV protection to avoid damaging your eyes.
Hot August Night was a cool song by Neil Diamond, but it isn't something very comfortable to try to sleep through. If you're tent camping or can't run your A/C at night, you may have to find ways to survive a Hot August Night or two. Begin by cooling your tent or RV as much as possible before you retire. You may have to sleep on top of your covers or sleeping bag or with only a sheet over you and shed some night clothes to stay cooler. I found it helped make my tent and my RV more comfortable if I sprayed a mist on the window screens to create a sort of limited evaporative cooler. Sometimes it will help to hang a damp cloth in front of a window where a breeze is coming in. Fans, either in your RV or portable, battery powered units, can add to your comfort. They don't actually cool the air, but they make you feel cooler by moving air that speeds the evaporation of perspiration and removal of heat from your skin. They can also help expel hot air and/or draw in cooler air from outside. In a pinch you can make a hand-fan by folding paper or cardboard or just using a paper plate for momentary personal cooling. Avoid hot drinks, hot heavy meals, and even spicy food, which can elevate your body temperature and add to your discomfort. Hot summer days are a good time for sandwiches, salads and cold cuts. And keep a spray bottle filled with clean water handy as a personal cooling system.
Summer evening/nighttime activities. Summer evenings are perfect for campfire activities. Cook your dinner over the campfire. It is fun and avoids adding heat inside your RV. S'mores and just roasting marshmallows are traditional favorites. These days there and super-sized marshmallows that make it even more fun. Another fun treat we've enjoyed are individual pies. They are easy to make, using clam-shell type pie cookers. You just put a piece of bread in each side, spoon in your favorite pie-filling, close the cooker, and put it in the coals. In a few minutes you have a hot, tasty pie. Sing-alongs and storytelling are long-time campfire hits, so bring along your instrument or favorite tall tale to entertain your companions. Later, when it gets dark, take a little time to explore and enjoy the night skies. Many of us live in urban environments where the night skies are obscured by ambient light from street lights, homes, traffic, and shopping centers. Getting out away from the city gives us a chance to observe the beauty of the universe. Many city-dwellers have never seen the Milky Way. A simple telescope or even ordinary binoculars can enhance our view of the moon and stars. Be careful looking at the moon. It is much brighter than you think when it is magnified! After all, it is reflected sunlight. Even a modest telescope should let you view the rings of Saturn and detect the red color of Mars and perhaps even see the famous red spot on Jupiter. Get a star map so you can recognize the major constellations and share some fun facts about them. Did you know that there are only 6 stars in the constellation known as the Seven Sisters or that the Great Pyramids of Egypt area arranged to match the stars in Orion's belt? When the Sphinx, which has the body of a lion, was originally built, the constellation Leo (the Lion) rose directly behind it. Another fun think to watch for in the night sky are shooting stars and even artificial satellites. There are specific times of the year, such as the Perseids Meteor Shower in early August, when shooting stars are especially plentiful. It is fun to take a moonlight stroll when there is enough moonlight and not a lot of clouds to block it. Other fun things to to at night might include identifying night creatures, such as owls and coyotes. The list is endless, limited only by your imagination. Kids have a natural fascination with fire and often have a tendency to play with burning sticks, creating a unsafe conditions for themselves and for anyone -- or any thing -- around them. I found giving them chemical light sticks to play with to be a less threatening alternative.
Keep cool!
Hot weather preparations. Summer usually means hot weather. Sometimes we go camping at the beach or mountains to escape hot suburban summers, but there will still be plenty of hot air between you and your cool escape. Hot weather demands a certain amount of preparation for you, your vehicles, and your equipment. The cooling system on all your vehicles needs to be in good condition and properly filled with appropriate coolant. Antifreeze does more than protect your radiator from freezing. It also helps prevent corrosion and improves the ability of the coolant to carry heat away from the engine to be dissipated through the radiator. Check radiator caps and hoses and make sure the radiators are clean and not clogged or contaminated with dirt, dust, oil, insects, or debris. Bring along some extra coolant in case you should spring a leak in a hose. Make sure it is the right kind of coolant for each vehicle. Some OHVs use special, "environmentally friendly" coolants that are not compatible with the ethylene glycol normally used in automobiles. Different types of coolant are different colors. Ethylene glycol is usually green. Recent multi-purpose automobile coolants are orange. Some specialized OHV coolants are blue. You can add ordinary water to most cooling systems in an emergency (distilled water is better), but maintaining the proper mixture provides the best protection and performance. Proper coolant not only protects against freezing, it conditions the cooling system and improves cooling efficiency so maintaining the correct antifreeze mix is important year round. The normal mix for most antifreeze/coolant solutions is 50/50 -- 50% coolant, 50% water. You will often find both concentrated and pre-diluted versions of antifreeze so make sure you know what you're buying. Pre-diluted is ready to use, but usually costs about the same as an equal amount of concentrated antifreeze, which would give you twice as much to use for the same amount of money. You just have to mix it with an equal amount of water.
Personal preparation. Prepare yourself for hot weather activities by pre-hydrating your body. Drink extra water or drinks with electrolytes the day before beginning hot weather activities. Dress appropriately in loose fitting clothing that will aid cooling. Wear a hat to keep the sun off your head and shade your face and eyes. Wear eye protection (sun glasses) that limit UV rays. Wear sun-block on exposed skin. Avoid over-exposure to direct sunlight. Drink plenty of water during your activities. Carry a water bottle or canteen or wear a hydration pack and take frequent sips to compensate for loss of fluids through perspiration and breathing. Plan your activities to allow time to get out of the sun and cool off and replenish your bodily fluids. You can cool your body using a simple spray bottle. A spritz now and then is unbelievable refreshing.
Keeping your shelter (tent or RV) cool. One of the best ways to keep a tent cool and to reduce the load on RV generators, is to keep them out of the sun. Parking your RV or setting up your tent in the shade may be an option in some locations, but if thunderstorms are likely, you want to avoid tall trees or being near any tall object that could attract lightning. Also avoid camping in a depression or along a stream bed that might be subject to flash flooding. To keep your tent cooler, make sure you install the rain fly, if it has one. In addition to keeping rain off, it also provides built-in shade with a few inches of air above your tent fabric, which gets rid of a lot of heat that would transfer directly to the interior of your tent if it were in direct sunlight. For extra protection, set up a dining fly over your tent or cover it with a tarp. A white tarp will reflect more heat than a dark colored rain fly. For both tents and RVs without A/C keep the windows open and the screens closed. Try to open windows on opposite sides to create a cross breeze and open windows on the windward side to take advantage of breezes if there are any. Open the roof vents on RVs to allow hot air to escape and open windows on the shaded side to allow cooler air to come in. If you have an A/C on your RV, keep all windows closed. If you RV has an evaporative cooler you will need to keep one or more windows slightly open for proper operation. Make use of window and patio awnings to shade windows from direct sunlight when possible and/or place reflective foam insulation panels in the windows to keep the sunlight and heat out. Permanently mounted reflective tape will let you keep your view but block unwanted heat and light. You can even get self-adhesive blackout film for temporary installation if you really need to block it.
Outdoor options. To keep cool outdoors, seek shade. If there aren't trees or canopies around, use your RV awning or set up an umbrella, awning, or dining fly -- or stretch a tarp out between trees and/or vehicles to provide shade. I found the days in the Mojave Desert too hot to enjoy even sitting the shade of my RV awning so I added a mist system to the awning that greatly improved the comfort level. An easier and less expensive solution is to just use a spray bottle to create your own personal mist. I prefer to buy new spray bottles to use for mist. Re-using one that previously contained cleaning solutions risks spraying residual cleaning chemicals on your skin that could result it irritations and discomfort, especially if you happen to have sensitive skin or allergies. You can buy new spray bottles at "dollar" stores. You may be able to plumb a mist system into the existing cold water lines on an RV but I prefer to set up a separate water tank and pump so I don't risk using up my culinary water supply just to run the misters. We ran misters under the awning on our motorhome during summer dirt bike outings in the Mojave Desert and the were very effective.
Summer activities. Popular summer activities include swimming, boating, fishing, hiking, bicycling and riding OHVs and horses. Swimming, boating, and fishing usually provide plenty of opportunities to cool off in the water, but the water also reflects sunlight and increases the risk of sunburn. Hiking, bicycling, and riding OHVs and horses will require participants to provide their own cooling methods and plenty of drinking water. Many people enjoy a variety of sports such as baseball, football, basketball, and volleyball, all of which make significant demands on our bodies and require that we pay attention to staying hydrated and avoiding becoming over-heated and getting sunburned. Usually sunburn is a minor inconvenience but it is possible to even get third degree burns from the sun that can be life threatening. It is all too common for people to get so involved in an activity that they don't notice the effect of the sun until it is too late. Pay attention to your own situation and keep an eye on your friends and family and everyone in your group and let them know if they seem to be getting burned or too hot.
Cool treats are always going to be a hit when its hot out. RV refrigerators or really good ice chests may let you bring along ice cream and popcicles. We found snow cones to be especially refreshing when desert camping. I found a couple of different devices to prepare the "snow". One used its own specially frozen ice disks and created very fine shaved ice. The other one grinds ordinary ice cubes. The result is a little coarser than the shaved ice, but you can dump in bagged ice or cubes made in trays in your RV fridge. Cold drinks are also always very popular. Some people may tout some health issues with drinking ice cold beverages, but few people doubt the enjoyment and immediate refreshment they deliver when its hot out. You will also want to plan your meals to avoid hot, heavy entree's and things that require a lot of cooking.
Dressing for summer. For the most part, you already know how to dress for warm summer weather. However, there are a couple of things to consider that might not be obvious. Loose fitting long sleeved shirts and pants are usually cooler than T-shirts, tank tops, and shorts and they will protect your arms and legs against sunburn. Think about how the a Bedouins and other desert nomads dress -- loose, flowing robes that cover their entire bodies. An appropriate hat or sun shade is necessary to keep you cool. Sunglasses should be more than a fashion statement and should do more than darken your view. Good sunglasses should also provide UV protection to avoid damaging your eyes.
Hot August Night was a cool song by Neil Diamond, but it isn't something very comfortable to try to sleep through. If you're tent camping or can't run your A/C at night, you may have to find ways to survive a Hot August Night or two. Begin by cooling your tent or RV as much as possible before you retire. You may have to sleep on top of your covers or sleeping bag or with only a sheet over you and shed some night clothes to stay cooler. I found it helped make my tent and my RV more comfortable if I sprayed a mist on the window screens to create a sort of limited evaporative cooler. Sometimes it will help to hang a damp cloth in front of a window where a breeze is coming in. Fans, either in your RV or portable, battery powered units, can add to your comfort. They don't actually cool the air, but they make you feel cooler by moving air that speeds the evaporation of perspiration and removal of heat from your skin. They can also help expel hot air and/or draw in cooler air from outside. In a pinch you can make a hand-fan by folding paper or cardboard or just using a paper plate for momentary personal cooling. Avoid hot drinks, hot heavy meals, and even spicy food, which can elevate your body temperature and add to your discomfort. Hot summer days are a good time for sandwiches, salads and cold cuts. And keep a spray bottle filled with clean water handy as a personal cooling system.
Summer evening/nighttime activities. Summer evenings are perfect for campfire activities. Cook your dinner over the campfire. It is fun and avoids adding heat inside your RV. S'mores and just roasting marshmallows are traditional favorites. These days there and super-sized marshmallows that make it even more fun. Another fun treat we've enjoyed are individual pies. They are easy to make, using clam-shell type pie cookers. You just put a piece of bread in each side, spoon in your favorite pie-filling, close the cooker, and put it in the coals. In a few minutes you have a hot, tasty pie. Sing-alongs and storytelling are long-time campfire hits, so bring along your instrument or favorite tall tale to entertain your companions. Later, when it gets dark, take a little time to explore and enjoy the night skies. Many of us live in urban environments where the night skies are obscured by ambient light from street lights, homes, traffic, and shopping centers. Getting out away from the city gives us a chance to observe the beauty of the universe. Many city-dwellers have never seen the Milky Way. A simple telescope or even ordinary binoculars can enhance our view of the moon and stars. Be careful looking at the moon. It is much brighter than you think when it is magnified! After all, it is reflected sunlight. Even a modest telescope should let you view the rings of Saturn and detect the red color of Mars and perhaps even see the famous red spot on Jupiter. Get a star map so you can recognize the major constellations and share some fun facts about them. Did you know that there are only 6 stars in the constellation known as the Seven Sisters or that the Great Pyramids of Egypt area arranged to match the stars in Orion's belt? When the Sphinx, which has the body of a lion, was originally built, the constellation Leo (the Lion) rose directly behind it. Another fun think to watch for in the night sky are shooting stars and even artificial satellites. There are specific times of the year, such as the Perseids Meteor Shower in early August, when shooting stars are especially plentiful. It is fun to take a moonlight stroll when there is enough moonlight and not a lot of clouds to block it. Other fun things to to at night might include identifying night creatures, such as owls and coyotes. The list is endless, limited only by your imagination. Kids have a natural fascination with fire and often have a tendency to play with burning sticks, creating a unsafe conditions for themselves and for anyone -- or any thing -- around them. I found giving them chemical light sticks to play with to be a less threatening alternative.
Keep cool!
Winter Rving and Camping
Having lived in southern California until a few years ago, I haven't done a lot of winter RVing but I have been out in the snow more than once. Somehow, at least for most of us "snow camping" just doesn't have the same appeal as enjoying the sunshine and green grass or beaches, but some people do find it attractive. Your RV can be your mobile ski chalet or hunting lodge -- if it is properly equipped and you are prepared for winter driving.
You can go RV or tent camping in the winter. You just have to make the right preparations. RV camping will usually be more warmer and comfortable, but with the right clothing and gear tent camping can be fun, safe, and enjoyable too.
Most RVs made in the US do not come from the factory equipped for winter use. A few do have enclosed and heated underbellies. Those manufactured in Canada are more likely to come from the factory prepared for four season use. If yours is not 'winter hardened' and you want to do some winter camping, you will need to add heat tape to the holding tanks and exposed plumbing to prevent them from freezing. Heat tape usually requires 120 volt electricity so you'll need to run you generator while on the road as well as in camp unless you are connected to shore power. However, some heat pads and tape will also work on 12 volt DC -- if you have sufficient battery capacity. Heating elements draw a lot of current. Some factory-winterized units heat the holding tanks and plumbing using ducts from the furnace but that kind of after the sale modifcations are usually cost prohibitive if they are even possible. Sometimes just adding a 100 watt incandescent light bulb to an exterior compartment will be enough to provide freeze protection -- if you have 120 volt power to run it as needed.
Many newer RVs feature double-pane windows which help reduce heat loss to maintain a comfortable temperature inside your RV in summer and winter. For older models, you can apply heat-shrink plastic storm windows (available at hardware stores and home centers). Other easier, more flexible options include reflective foam interior insulating panels, similar to windshield sun blockers. These can be used in the summer to keep the heat out and in the winter to help keep it in. Keep the curtains, drapes, or blinds closed as much as possible to further reduce heat loss. If you use your RV a lot in the winter or find it is difficult to keep it warm, you might try replacing the curtains or drapes with heavier, insulated drapes.
Drafts. You can loose a surprising amount of heat through small openings around where plumbing and electrical wiring passes through RV walls. Seal these openings with spray foam or silicone caulk. Ordinary foam weatherstripping can often be used to reduce drafts around pedals and control cables that pass through the firewall of your vehicle. Spray foam can also be used to insulate the inside of exterior cabinet doors and provide some protection for exposed plumbing, reducing the amount of energy required for heat tape to do its job. You may find drafts around windows and doors or even where interior walls meet exterior walls or where ceilings or floors meet exterior walls. These may be more likely on older units that have been subjected to years of road vibration and twisting of the coach in normal (or abnormal!) use. Careful and judicious use of spray foam can seal these cracks if adjustment of the doors and windows doesn't solve the problem.
Roof vents. Roof vents provide welcome ventilation in warm weather, but can be a conduit for heat loss in cold weather. Heat rises, so the warmest air in your RV is going to be up near the ceiling, right where it can escape or be cooled by unprotected roof vents. The plastic or acrylic domes or even metal lids provide little insulation. Some permanent skylights have double domes that do provide better protection, but ordinary pop-open roof vents usually do not. RV stores sell pillow-like pads that can be pushed into the vent opening or you can make your own from styrofoam sheets or foam rubber. Or just stuff a throw pillow into the opening. You can also purchase vinyl covers that fasten over the vent using snaps or velcro. The pillow types provide more insulation, but the snap-on covers block a lot of heat loss through air flow and take up less storage room. Another option is to cut foam insulation like Reflectix to fit the roof vent openings as well as covering your windows. If you bought a roll to make your window covers you may very well have some left over to cut to fit your roof vents. Be sure to cut it slightly larger than the opening so it will fit tight and stay put.
RV furnaces aren't always able to keep up with freezing winter tempeatures. If you find that your furnace runs constantly and your RV is still cold, you may need a bigger furnace -- or a second furnace or other source of heat to keep your RV comfortable. Sometimes a good tune up may solve the problem, but unless your find heat runs that are blocked or the flame isn't adjusted properly, it probably just isn't big enough. Sometimes you can buy a more powerful furnace that will fit in the same place as the old one, but quite often a larger furnace will require a bigger space and might need larger ducting. Of course you want to make sure you have solved any heat loss problems (drafts, unprotected windows, etc) before you invest in a new furnace.
Auxiliary heaters. Hopefully, if you've weather-proofed your RV, your furnace will provide adequate heat to keep you warm and toasty through cold winter nights. If it does not, you should first make sure it is operating optimally. Blocked heat vents, kinked, looped, or excessively long heat runs, weak fan motors, blocked combustion vents, and improper gas pressure can all have a detrimental effect on furnace performance. If everything is working correctly and you still can't stay warm your furnace may just be too small for your rig and conditions and you may want upgrade the furnace or add an auxiliary heater. A few RVs have more than one furnace. If yours has only one you may be able to add a second one if there is some convenient cabinet space you can sacrifice. If you choose this route, have it installed by a qualified professional or make sure it is properly vented and the gas line is leak free. If you will be mostly staying in campgrounds with shore power or able to run your generator all night (not recommended since exhaust fumes could enter your RV and make you ill or even kill you), you may be able to use an electric heater. This is usually the easiest and most convenient solution if you have 120 volt power available. Many people find this suitable since they only need extra heat while sitting around in the evening and not while snugly tucked in for the night. Warm bedding is one of the easiest, least expensive, and most comfortable ways of staying warm at night. One of the most innovative, appealing and attractive options I've seen for electric heat is a compact electric fireplace. Not only does it provide heat like any other electric heater, it adds a nice, cabin-like ambiance to your RV. However, the ones I've see only have 750W/1500W heat so if you need a lot more heat, get a 3000W or 3500W portable heater. Another popular solution comes in the form of catalytic heaters. These can be permanently mounted and plumbed into your RVs propane system or are available as portable units (often used as tent heaters). In either case, you will need to keep a window or two slightly open to ensure you have an adequate supply of fresh air. Although some of these heaters, even the white-gas and propane catalytic heaters, do not give off smoke or toxic fumes they do consume oxygen, so you must make sure you have fresh air coming in at all times so you won't suffocate! I found the white-gas powered Coleman tent heater kept our 16' Smuggler warm all night for the kids to sleep in, even with two windows left open about an inch or so for ventilation. Permanently mounted heaters are safer than portable heaters since they aren't in danger of being tipped over onto a flammable surface. However, take care to keep the area around ALL catalytic heaters clear. They get VERY hot and anything coming into contact with them (clothing, curtains, flesh) will be badly damaged in an instant. If you must run your generator at night, consider an add-on exhaust vent such as a Genturi Exhaust. These attach to the generator exhaust and extend above the roof of your RV to carry exhaust gases up where they are more likely to be dissipated without contaminating the air you are breathing. They cannot be left attached while the vehicle is in motion so you'll need someplace to store the pipes during travel. Be sure to let them cool before disassembling them and storing them. Unless the extra pipes are sealed at each joint there is still a chance of exhaust fumes leaking where they could pose a problem so it is always best not to run you generator while you're sleeping.
Winter Camp issues. Winter camping brings some new situations you will have to learn to deal with. You will want to have an aggressive exterior welcome mat to help remove snow and keep it from being tracked inside your RV. You may want to bring along a snow shovel to remove snow from pathways from your RV to places you need to go frequently or to clean off the concrete pad around the campground picnic table or from around the fire pit. BTW, keeping your snow shovel waxed will keep snow from sticking to it, When it does stick it makes every shovel full heavier and less productive, Even in winter weather you may find it pleasant to sit or stand around a campfire. If you are staying in a campground with hookups, you will need to protect your fresh water line and sewer dump lines from freezing. Heat tape is the most effective way of doing this. You can also wrap your fresh water hose with foam pipe insulation to keep the heat in and minimize how much you have to use the heat tape but insulation alone will not prevent freezing. Ideally you will have a thermostat on heat tape and each device so that it will automatically maintain a temperature above freezing. Remember, you don't need holding tanks, plumbing, or water lines to be kept "warm", just above freezing, which is 32°F. A typical target temperature to prevent freezing is 40°F. That way, if there is a sudden drop in ambient temperature, the heat tape or heater will have time to react before the contents freeze. Water expands when it freezes and generates enough force to shatter pipes and split water tanks and water heaters wide open. Keep an eye on bottled or canned liquids like water or soda pop too. They can also freeze if left out or if the ice chest they are in is left out in sub-freezing weather.
Winter activities. If your OHVs include snowmobiles, your activities will likely center around their use. ATVs, especially those with 4WD, are also popular for winter rides. Dirt bikes can be used in the snow, but are not as stable and may need special studded winter tires to get traction. I've seen dirt bikes with a track installed in place of the rear wheel giving them almost the kind of traction snowmobiles have in snow, but these modifications are expensive. Beyond the vehicular activities, all the old standard winter activities are readily available: skiing, snowboarding, sledding, ice skating, snowball fights, ice fishing, and building snowmen and snow forts. We've even made ice cream from fresh snow (make sure it isn't contaminated -- as they say, "don't eat yellow snow"), but personally, I prefer a nice cup of hot chocolate in cold weather! I find frozen treats much more appealing when its hot outside. BTW, you may have seen the beer commercial where an avid beer fan is seen eating yellow snow as he follows someone carrying a leaking keg. Trust me. Most times you find yellow snow it won't be beer, unless its already been cycled through someones kidneys!
When you go out for an activity, leave your RV furnace running -- unless you are on an extended outing and are concerned about conserving fuel. Then you might want to just turn it down a bit. DO NOT turn it off completely since you may expose the interior and contents to freezing temperatures that will damage plumbing and freeze provisions. Shoot for around 40° to conserve propane and yet protect interior components from freezing. If you're not worried about using propane or you won't be gone long, set it to a comfortable temperature. It is really nice to come back to camp and have a warm place waiting for you. You will find this particularly convenient if your are traveling with children or elderly companions whose tolerance for being cold may be limited. And, should someone get chilled to the point of hypothermia, it could be life-saving. Set the thermostat at 40° if you want to protect your RV against freezing yet conserve propane when you're not "at home". To come back to a comfortably warm unit, a setting of 65 or 70 degrees should be about right. While 65 is bit cool when you're sitting around doing nothing, it is usually a lot warmer than it is outside and will feel really good when you come in from the cold. A setting of 65° will use less propane than 70° but if you have enough propane and really like to be warm, crank it back up to 70° when you come in. At 65° you may still need a sweater and some warm socks or fuzzy slippers.
Some newer luxury RVs have Hydronic heating systems. These systems are usually more compatible with cold weather camping. They use a central boiler that circulates a heated antifreeze solution to distribute heat throughout the coach. In many cases they also heat holding tanks in enclosed cabinets so they're protected against freezing as long as you don't run out of fuel. The original Hydronic systems were only available on diesel pushers because they used diesel fuel but a propane version has recently been introduced that will allow their use in gasoline powered motorhomes and even trailers. Because of the extensive plumbing required it is not practical to retrofit hydronic systems into existing units but it might be a feature to look for if you find yourself in the market for a winterized RV. The even heat distribution and warm floors are definitely appealing features on cold outings.
Snow accumulation. Watching it snow can be very pleasant, if you are warm and cozy inside your tent or RV. However, the accumulation of snow on flat surfaces -- awnings, RV roofs, and tents should be monitored and the snow removed before it becomes heavy enough to cause structural damage. You can usually just drop an awning all the way down and sweep or brush the snow off of it. If you are tent camping, sweep the snow off the tent frequently to avoid weight build up and to avoid the snow from freezing to the tent. Warmer temperatures inside the tent will melt the snow against the fabric, then the cold snow above it and cold temperatures outside will re-freeze it, making the whole mess very hard to remove. If your tent is sturdy enough you might let some snow accumulate for insulation, like an igloo. 12" of snow has about the same insulation "R" factor as the fiberglass bats in the walls of your fixed residence. But be aware that snow can be heavy. Light, fluffy snow can still add up to a 14 lbs/sq ft, which can be quite a load on a tent or RV roof. Wet snow is even heavier. Take care if you need to remove the snow from the roof of your RV. RV roofs can be very slippery and its a long way down if you fall off. Also, you may not be able to see obstacles on the roof that you may trip over or inadvertently damage slogging through deep snow. If at all possible, use a ladder alongside your RV and sweep or brush the snow off the roof. Although it may seem like a good idea to park under trees for protection from winter weather, it really isn't. Snow can accumulate in the branches of the trees and then fall with surprising force onto the roof of your RV. It can easily crush vent and A/C covers and other accessories and may even cause structural damage to the roof itself. If you MUST park under trees, monitor the snow accumulation in the trees above your RV and be prepared to move if the buildup appears to be reaching dangerous levels. What are dangerous levels? Well, if large clumps are starting to fall from the branches or deep accumulations are forming on the branches (approaching 6" or more), you are looking at a catastrophe in the making.
Winter driving. Hopefully, if you live in an area where you will be doing winter RVing, you already have some experience with winter driving. If not, it probably is not a good idea to make a "snow trip" in the first place! If you have never had any experience with winter driving, you DON'T want you first crack at it to take place behind the wheel of a motorhome or a tow vehicle! Winter driving is difficult enough without adding the extra burden of an over-sized rig. If you are new to winter driving, try to take a few trips in your car or truck by itself before you venture out with a motorhome or travel trailer. You will want to be confident in your winter driving capabilities before adding the extra concerns of a heavy RV. If possible, practice driving in an empty, snow-covered field or parking lot to get a feel for how your vehicle handles in the snow.
Winter driving brings many hazards. Slick roads are probably the first to come to mind. They may be covered with snow or with "black ice". Another serious consideration is snow accumulation, which will make progress and maneuvering difficult. Appropriate tire chains and 4WD provide some defense against these problems, although tire chains are not very effective against black ice and few RVs are equipped with 4WD. In many higher elevations you will encounter sections where snow chains or 4WD are required. Be sure you have chains that properly fit your RV and practice putting them on and taking them off before you leave home. You won't want to be rolling around in the snow or slush at the side of the road while you learn how to hook them up. Bring along a tarp or use a sleeping pad to lay on to hook up your chains and keep you out of the wet and cold. Chains will give you added traction in snow but you will not be able to drive as fast as you would on clear, dry pavement. However, driving too slow will make you an obstacle for other vehicles and can create its own safety hazards, so you must use common sense and try to maintain a safe speed. Turning and stopping an RV in snow or icy conditions requires a LOT more room than normal, so give yourself time and space. Look ahead and plan and execute your moves carefully. Slow down for all turns. Turning your vehicle depends on there being sufficient friction between your front tires and the road to overcome vehicle momentum and change its direction of travel. Snow and ice reduce friction to where it doesn't matter what direction the wheels are pointing, the vehicle will keep going straight! It is difficult, if not impossible, to discern traffic lanes and edges of the highway on snow-covered roads. In places that get a lot of winter snow there should be tall reflective poles along the edge of the road that can give you some idea of where the road goes, but unless you are on a divided highway there will be no indication of even where your direction of travel is, let alone differentiation between lanes.
Another winter driving hazard is visibility. Snow, whether falling from the sky or being blown from ground sources, can literally reduce visibility to zero. Even without snow there are other winter conditions that make it very difficult to see where you're going, such as fog, especially freezing or frozen fog. You can encounter what is called a "white out", where the only thing you can see is snow and/or fog, leaving you NO landmarks or references to steer by. You can't distinguish any horizon. In fact, sometimes you can't even tell which way is up! If you encounter white-out conditions, pull off the road and STOP! Put on your emergency flashers, and wait for the white-out to clear. Try to get to clear off the road if you can so no one runs into you but take care not to go so far as to get stuck!
The best defense against winter driving is to avoid it! Check the weather before you leave home and monitor weather stations frequently while you are out. If severe weather is headed your way, take appropriate actions to either get out of the area or find a safe place to wait out the storm. Far better to spend a few hours in a rest area or campground or even a Walmart parking lot than have to pull over along the highway and risk getting rear-ended by a big rig trying to make up time or even a snow-plow trying to clear the road for you! If a snowplow happens to go past you while you're parked, you may find yourself behind a berm of snow thrown up by the plow, making it difficult to get back on the road. You may have to get out and dig yourself out. Always carry at least a folding shovel when driving in winter.
Walmart parking lots. Speaking of Walmart parking lots, it is well-known among RVers that most Walmarts are RV-friendly. As RVers we need to show our appreciation for their generosity by demonstrating good behavior when stopping in a Walmart lot and by patronizing their stores. Try to park way out away from the entry doors and take up as few parking spaces as you can. NEVER block driveways or fire lanes. ALWAYS make sure your holding tank valves are tightly closed and the caps securely in place. Police the area around your rig before you leave. Even if the trash was there before you arrived, it is polite and appropriate to leave the area in better condition than it was when you found it. And if its a mess when you leave, you may get blamed even it was already a mess when you got there. The use of Walmart parking lots is a not a right, it is a privilege, one we may lose if we aren't good citizens. I've seen thoughtless folks take up twice as many parking places as they really need, block access ways, driveways, and even fire lanes. Obviously these people are NOT thinking or are completely self-centered. This kind of abuse could very easily lead to Walmart posting "NO RVs" signs if they continue. Note: not all Walmarts allow overnight RV parking. Some are restrained by local ordinances, some by manager decision. Either way it is incumbent upon RVers to obey the rules. Some other businesses also cater to RVers. One I know of is Cracker Barrel.
If you plan to do any winter camping in a tent, you will want to obtain a good four season tent. Summer tents won't keep you warm in snow and freezing temperatures or stand up to snow loads. The fly should come as far down as possible. Some people even sew an extra skirt on the rain fly so it nearly reaches the ground all around. Short flys will allow snow to blow up onto the walls and sometimes even through the vents into the tent. If you want to extend the fly, purchase some nylon fabric that closely matches or complements the existing rain fly and sew it securely to the bottom of the original rain fly. Be sure to hem the new bottom edge and add grommets as needed to properly anchor the whole configuration. Adequate ventilation is required to avoid condensation which will quickly destroy insulation values. An attached vestibule is a good way to keep snow from coming in the door. Tent heaters are desirable in cold weather but be sure to read and follow the instructions religiously. In addition to the potential to set the tent on fire, they may give off toxic fumes and will always consume oxygen unless they obtain their combustion air from the outside. Traditional catalytic tent heaters require ventilation to avoid suffocation. You may be inclined to keep all the windows and vents closed when its cold outside, but doing so could be fatal! I read of an experienced camper who died using a tent heater without sufficient ventilation. The good old Coleman lantern gives off a lot of heat and will often be sufficient to warm a small tent if it isn't TOO cold outside. Just be sure to exercise extreme caution to avoid fire or suffocation.
Sleeping warm in a tent in winter takes some preparation. Start with a good sleeping bag that is rated for the temperatures you are expecting. When I did some snow camping, I used a heavy tarp as a ground cloth beneath my tent, a second tarp covering the floor inside the tent, then opened up an old sleeping bag and laid it out inside before rolling out our regular sleeping bags. That gave us extra padding and extra insulation between us and the snow. After rolling out our regular winter sleeping bags, I laid another opened up bag over both bags. The outside temperature was well below freezing that night, but we stayed warm and cozy. Couples who are used to sleeping together can benefit from having sleeping bags they can zip together to share their warmth with each other.
Protecting your provisions during winter outings. During warm months you need an ice chest to maintain foods at 40° or less to avoid spoilage. During winter months you might use an ice chest to help keep your provisions from freezing! You will need to balance the need to protect your food from animals (by storing it in your vehicle) against freezing (by storing it in your tent). Since bears hibernate during winter months, you probably won't have to deal with them, but many other animals (wolves, coyotes, and raccoons for example) are likely to become bolder as limited winter food supplies boosts their hunger.
Dress for winter weather. You can handle colder, nastier weather than you might think IF you are properly dressed for it. Consider skiers and snowmobilers who regularly brave sub-zero temperatures and blizzards in relative comfort. The secret is dressing in layers. Not only do multiple layers give added insulation to preserve body heat, they allow you to adjust as circumstances (temperatures, level of activity) change. The air between layers can also be a factor in added insulation. Start with a warm, comfortable base layer. You want this layer to be fairly form fitting. It should be made a material that will both insulate and wick away perspiration. Cotton has long been the fundamental fabric but there are some excellent synthetics with exceptional performance these days. Though not what you're probably used to wearing as underwear, you will want these garments to be long legged and long sleeved. Next comes a layer of comfortable clothing (pants, shirts). Generally the pants should be fairly thick material and ideally somewhat waterproof unless you plan to wear a waterproof layer over them. Shirts should be fairly loose and comfortable. Flannel and fleece are popular options for warm shirts. In really cold weather you might need to add a sweater or sweatshirt. For OHV riding, you can buy "Windchill" jerseys that are warmer than regular jerseys. Next you will need a warm coat. One with a hood is good to keep your head and neck warm. In really cold weather you will want an additional pair of pants. Ideally they should be wind and water proof. Depending on just how cold it is you might opt for insulated pants for extra warmth. Or you could substitute a snowmobile suit for jacket and pants. A warm hat is essential. My grandmother taught us "if your feet are cold, put on your hat". There is actually something scientific behind this old folk saying. You can lose a lot of heat through your head. Wearing a warm hat will help keep your blood warm which in turn helps keep your extremities warm. You may also want to wear a baclacava or ski mask to keep your face warm. I was surprised how much warmer my face was even with a thin nylon face mask that I can wear under my helmet when dirt biking. My favorite cold weather hat is a Russian Ushanka but even a good stocking cap will help keep your ears and head warm and can be comfortably worn under the hood of most coats and jackets. And, speaking of feet, they, too, need proper sock systems to ensure comfort. Start with a pair of well fitting light socks that will protect your feet against chafing and blisters and wick away perspiration. Then add some warm socks. Wool socks are the traditional standard and retrain their insulating properties even when wet. You can purchase battery powered heated socks if your really need extra help keeping your feet warm or use chemical toe warmers. Finally, some waterproof insulated boots such as snow boots to keep your feet warm and dry. You will need warm gloves or mittens for your hands. Mittens will keep your hands warmer but you sacrifice some dexterity. You can use chemical hand warmers in either mittens or gloves for added comfort. Using soft glove liners can add extra protection and adapt regular OHV gloves for winter use. Well insulated, waterproof gloves should keep your hands warm. Why waterproof gloves and other clothing? In most cold climates you will encounter snow and as snow melts you need your outer layer to be waterproof to ensure your other layers stay dry. One final piece of useful gear is a baclacava or face mask to keep your face warm. Knitted ski masks or military bacalcavas will be warmest, but even a thin nylon face mask, which can be worn under an OHV helmet, will help a lot. Wear sunglasses to protect your eyes. The glare off snow can be brutal!
Winter campfires. Cozying up to a nice, warm, crackling fire on a cold day is certainly appealing. There are some special considerations when building campfires in winter. First, try to scrape away the snow down to the ground. A fire built on snow will sink into the snow and be drowned by snow melt. If you can't scrape down to the ground, build a platform of green logs or large, flat stones on which to build your fire to keep it away from the snow. A piece of sheet metal might keep your fire out of the snow, but the heat transferred through it will melt the snow underneath and you could still have a problem with flooding from snow melt around and into your fire. You also need to be aware of what is overhead. Building a fire under snow-laden trees is a catastrophe waiting to happen. Heat from the fire may loosen snow on the branches and it will come crashing down and put out your fire. It could also cause injuries to anyone it falls on and, at the very least, would be a quite unpleasant, unwanted, and unproductive surprise to be pummeled with snow when you're trying to warm up around the fire.
Winter camping is cool!
You can go RV or tent camping in the winter. You just have to make the right preparations. RV camping will usually be more warmer and comfortable, but with the right clothing and gear tent camping can be fun, safe, and enjoyable too.
Most RVs made in the US do not come from the factory equipped for winter use. A few do have enclosed and heated underbellies. Those manufactured in Canada are more likely to come from the factory prepared for four season use. If yours is not 'winter hardened' and you want to do some winter camping, you will need to add heat tape to the holding tanks and exposed plumbing to prevent them from freezing. Heat tape usually requires 120 volt electricity so you'll need to run you generator while on the road as well as in camp unless you are connected to shore power. However, some heat pads and tape will also work on 12 volt DC -- if you have sufficient battery capacity. Heating elements draw a lot of current. Some factory-winterized units heat the holding tanks and plumbing using ducts from the furnace but that kind of after the sale modifcations are usually cost prohibitive if they are even possible. Sometimes just adding a 100 watt incandescent light bulb to an exterior compartment will be enough to provide freeze protection -- if you have 120 volt power to run it as needed.
Many newer RVs feature double-pane windows which help reduce heat loss to maintain a comfortable temperature inside your RV in summer and winter. For older models, you can apply heat-shrink plastic storm windows (available at hardware stores and home centers). Other easier, more flexible options include reflective foam interior insulating panels, similar to windshield sun blockers. These can be used in the summer to keep the heat out and in the winter to help keep it in. Keep the curtains, drapes, or blinds closed as much as possible to further reduce heat loss. If you use your RV a lot in the winter or find it is difficult to keep it warm, you might try replacing the curtains or drapes with heavier, insulated drapes.
Drafts. You can loose a surprising amount of heat through small openings around where plumbing and electrical wiring passes through RV walls. Seal these openings with spray foam or silicone caulk. Ordinary foam weatherstripping can often be used to reduce drafts around pedals and control cables that pass through the firewall of your vehicle. Spray foam can also be used to insulate the inside of exterior cabinet doors and provide some protection for exposed plumbing, reducing the amount of energy required for heat tape to do its job. You may find drafts around windows and doors or even where interior walls meet exterior walls or where ceilings or floors meet exterior walls. These may be more likely on older units that have been subjected to years of road vibration and twisting of the coach in normal (or abnormal!) use. Careful and judicious use of spray foam can seal these cracks if adjustment of the doors and windows doesn't solve the problem.
Roof vents. Roof vents provide welcome ventilation in warm weather, but can be a conduit for heat loss in cold weather. Heat rises, so the warmest air in your RV is going to be up near the ceiling, right where it can escape or be cooled by unprotected roof vents. The plastic or acrylic domes or even metal lids provide little insulation. Some permanent skylights have double domes that do provide better protection, but ordinary pop-open roof vents usually do not. RV stores sell pillow-like pads that can be pushed into the vent opening or you can make your own from styrofoam sheets or foam rubber. Or just stuff a throw pillow into the opening. You can also purchase vinyl covers that fasten over the vent using snaps or velcro. The pillow types provide more insulation, but the snap-on covers block a lot of heat loss through air flow and take up less storage room. Another option is to cut foam insulation like Reflectix to fit the roof vent openings as well as covering your windows. If you bought a roll to make your window covers you may very well have some left over to cut to fit your roof vents. Be sure to cut it slightly larger than the opening so it will fit tight and stay put.
RV furnaces aren't always able to keep up with freezing winter tempeatures. If you find that your furnace runs constantly and your RV is still cold, you may need a bigger furnace -- or a second furnace or other source of heat to keep your RV comfortable. Sometimes a good tune up may solve the problem, but unless your find heat runs that are blocked or the flame isn't adjusted properly, it probably just isn't big enough. Sometimes you can buy a more powerful furnace that will fit in the same place as the old one, but quite often a larger furnace will require a bigger space and might need larger ducting. Of course you want to make sure you have solved any heat loss problems (drafts, unprotected windows, etc) before you invest in a new furnace.
Auxiliary heaters. Hopefully, if you've weather-proofed your RV, your furnace will provide adequate heat to keep you warm and toasty through cold winter nights. If it does not, you should first make sure it is operating optimally. Blocked heat vents, kinked, looped, or excessively long heat runs, weak fan motors, blocked combustion vents, and improper gas pressure can all have a detrimental effect on furnace performance. If everything is working correctly and you still can't stay warm your furnace may just be too small for your rig and conditions and you may want upgrade the furnace or add an auxiliary heater. A few RVs have more than one furnace. If yours has only one you may be able to add a second one if there is some convenient cabinet space you can sacrifice. If you choose this route, have it installed by a qualified professional or make sure it is properly vented and the gas line is leak free. If you will be mostly staying in campgrounds with shore power or able to run your generator all night (not recommended since exhaust fumes could enter your RV and make you ill or even kill you), you may be able to use an electric heater. This is usually the easiest and most convenient solution if you have 120 volt power available. Many people find this suitable since they only need extra heat while sitting around in the evening and not while snugly tucked in for the night. Warm bedding is one of the easiest, least expensive, and most comfortable ways of staying warm at night. One of the most innovative, appealing and attractive options I've seen for electric heat is a compact electric fireplace. Not only does it provide heat like any other electric heater, it adds a nice, cabin-like ambiance to your RV. However, the ones I've see only have 750W/1500W heat so if you need a lot more heat, get a 3000W or 3500W portable heater. Another popular solution comes in the form of catalytic heaters. These can be permanently mounted and plumbed into your RVs propane system or are available as portable units (often used as tent heaters). In either case, you will need to keep a window or two slightly open to ensure you have an adequate supply of fresh air. Although some of these heaters, even the white-gas and propane catalytic heaters, do not give off smoke or toxic fumes they do consume oxygen, so you must make sure you have fresh air coming in at all times so you won't suffocate! I found the white-gas powered Coleman tent heater kept our 16' Smuggler warm all night for the kids to sleep in, even with two windows left open about an inch or so for ventilation. Permanently mounted heaters are safer than portable heaters since they aren't in danger of being tipped over onto a flammable surface. However, take care to keep the area around ALL catalytic heaters clear. They get VERY hot and anything coming into contact with them (clothing, curtains, flesh) will be badly damaged in an instant. If you must run your generator at night, consider an add-on exhaust vent such as a Genturi Exhaust. These attach to the generator exhaust and extend above the roof of your RV to carry exhaust gases up where they are more likely to be dissipated without contaminating the air you are breathing. They cannot be left attached while the vehicle is in motion so you'll need someplace to store the pipes during travel. Be sure to let them cool before disassembling them and storing them. Unless the extra pipes are sealed at each joint there is still a chance of exhaust fumes leaking where they could pose a problem so it is always best not to run you generator while you're sleeping.
Winter Camp issues. Winter camping brings some new situations you will have to learn to deal with. You will want to have an aggressive exterior welcome mat to help remove snow and keep it from being tracked inside your RV. You may want to bring along a snow shovel to remove snow from pathways from your RV to places you need to go frequently or to clean off the concrete pad around the campground picnic table or from around the fire pit. BTW, keeping your snow shovel waxed will keep snow from sticking to it, When it does stick it makes every shovel full heavier and less productive, Even in winter weather you may find it pleasant to sit or stand around a campfire. If you are staying in a campground with hookups, you will need to protect your fresh water line and sewer dump lines from freezing. Heat tape is the most effective way of doing this. You can also wrap your fresh water hose with foam pipe insulation to keep the heat in and minimize how much you have to use the heat tape but insulation alone will not prevent freezing. Ideally you will have a thermostat on heat tape and each device so that it will automatically maintain a temperature above freezing. Remember, you don't need holding tanks, plumbing, or water lines to be kept "warm", just above freezing, which is 32°F. A typical target temperature to prevent freezing is 40°F. That way, if there is a sudden drop in ambient temperature, the heat tape or heater will have time to react before the contents freeze. Water expands when it freezes and generates enough force to shatter pipes and split water tanks and water heaters wide open. Keep an eye on bottled or canned liquids like water or soda pop too. They can also freeze if left out or if the ice chest they are in is left out in sub-freezing weather.
Winter activities. If your OHVs include snowmobiles, your activities will likely center around their use. ATVs, especially those with 4WD, are also popular for winter rides. Dirt bikes can be used in the snow, but are not as stable and may need special studded winter tires to get traction. I've seen dirt bikes with a track installed in place of the rear wheel giving them almost the kind of traction snowmobiles have in snow, but these modifications are expensive. Beyond the vehicular activities, all the old standard winter activities are readily available: skiing, snowboarding, sledding, ice skating, snowball fights, ice fishing, and building snowmen and snow forts. We've even made ice cream from fresh snow (make sure it isn't contaminated -- as they say, "don't eat yellow snow"), but personally, I prefer a nice cup of hot chocolate in cold weather! I find frozen treats much more appealing when its hot outside. BTW, you may have seen the beer commercial where an avid beer fan is seen eating yellow snow as he follows someone carrying a leaking keg. Trust me. Most times you find yellow snow it won't be beer, unless its already been cycled through someones kidneys!
When you go out for an activity, leave your RV furnace running -- unless you are on an extended outing and are concerned about conserving fuel. Then you might want to just turn it down a bit. DO NOT turn it off completely since you may expose the interior and contents to freezing temperatures that will damage plumbing and freeze provisions. Shoot for around 40° to conserve propane and yet protect interior components from freezing. If you're not worried about using propane or you won't be gone long, set it to a comfortable temperature. It is really nice to come back to camp and have a warm place waiting for you. You will find this particularly convenient if your are traveling with children or elderly companions whose tolerance for being cold may be limited. And, should someone get chilled to the point of hypothermia, it could be life-saving. Set the thermostat at 40° if you want to protect your RV against freezing yet conserve propane when you're not "at home". To come back to a comfortably warm unit, a setting of 65 or 70 degrees should be about right. While 65 is bit cool when you're sitting around doing nothing, it is usually a lot warmer than it is outside and will feel really good when you come in from the cold. A setting of 65° will use less propane than 70° but if you have enough propane and really like to be warm, crank it back up to 70° when you come in. At 65° you may still need a sweater and some warm socks or fuzzy slippers.
Some newer luxury RVs have Hydronic heating systems. These systems are usually more compatible with cold weather camping. They use a central boiler that circulates a heated antifreeze solution to distribute heat throughout the coach. In many cases they also heat holding tanks in enclosed cabinets so they're protected against freezing as long as you don't run out of fuel. The original Hydronic systems were only available on diesel pushers because they used diesel fuel but a propane version has recently been introduced that will allow their use in gasoline powered motorhomes and even trailers. Because of the extensive plumbing required it is not practical to retrofit hydronic systems into existing units but it might be a feature to look for if you find yourself in the market for a winterized RV. The even heat distribution and warm floors are definitely appealing features on cold outings.
Snow accumulation. Watching it snow can be very pleasant, if you are warm and cozy inside your tent or RV. However, the accumulation of snow on flat surfaces -- awnings, RV roofs, and tents should be monitored and the snow removed before it becomes heavy enough to cause structural damage. You can usually just drop an awning all the way down and sweep or brush the snow off of it. If you are tent camping, sweep the snow off the tent frequently to avoid weight build up and to avoid the snow from freezing to the tent. Warmer temperatures inside the tent will melt the snow against the fabric, then the cold snow above it and cold temperatures outside will re-freeze it, making the whole mess very hard to remove. If your tent is sturdy enough you might let some snow accumulate for insulation, like an igloo. 12" of snow has about the same insulation "R" factor as the fiberglass bats in the walls of your fixed residence. But be aware that snow can be heavy. Light, fluffy snow can still add up to a 14 lbs/sq ft, which can be quite a load on a tent or RV roof. Wet snow is even heavier. Take care if you need to remove the snow from the roof of your RV. RV roofs can be very slippery and its a long way down if you fall off. Also, you may not be able to see obstacles on the roof that you may trip over or inadvertently damage slogging through deep snow. If at all possible, use a ladder alongside your RV and sweep or brush the snow off the roof. Although it may seem like a good idea to park under trees for protection from winter weather, it really isn't. Snow can accumulate in the branches of the trees and then fall with surprising force onto the roof of your RV. It can easily crush vent and A/C covers and other accessories and may even cause structural damage to the roof itself. If you MUST park under trees, monitor the snow accumulation in the trees above your RV and be prepared to move if the buildup appears to be reaching dangerous levels. What are dangerous levels? Well, if large clumps are starting to fall from the branches or deep accumulations are forming on the branches (approaching 6" or more), you are looking at a catastrophe in the making.
Winter driving. Hopefully, if you live in an area where you will be doing winter RVing, you already have some experience with winter driving. If not, it probably is not a good idea to make a "snow trip" in the first place! If you have never had any experience with winter driving, you DON'T want you first crack at it to take place behind the wheel of a motorhome or a tow vehicle! Winter driving is difficult enough without adding the extra burden of an over-sized rig. If you are new to winter driving, try to take a few trips in your car or truck by itself before you venture out with a motorhome or travel trailer. You will want to be confident in your winter driving capabilities before adding the extra concerns of a heavy RV. If possible, practice driving in an empty, snow-covered field or parking lot to get a feel for how your vehicle handles in the snow.
Winter driving brings many hazards. Slick roads are probably the first to come to mind. They may be covered with snow or with "black ice". Another serious consideration is snow accumulation, which will make progress and maneuvering difficult. Appropriate tire chains and 4WD provide some defense against these problems, although tire chains are not very effective against black ice and few RVs are equipped with 4WD. In many higher elevations you will encounter sections where snow chains or 4WD are required. Be sure you have chains that properly fit your RV and practice putting them on and taking them off before you leave home. You won't want to be rolling around in the snow or slush at the side of the road while you learn how to hook them up. Bring along a tarp or use a sleeping pad to lay on to hook up your chains and keep you out of the wet and cold. Chains will give you added traction in snow but you will not be able to drive as fast as you would on clear, dry pavement. However, driving too slow will make you an obstacle for other vehicles and can create its own safety hazards, so you must use common sense and try to maintain a safe speed. Turning and stopping an RV in snow or icy conditions requires a LOT more room than normal, so give yourself time and space. Look ahead and plan and execute your moves carefully. Slow down for all turns. Turning your vehicle depends on there being sufficient friction between your front tires and the road to overcome vehicle momentum and change its direction of travel. Snow and ice reduce friction to where it doesn't matter what direction the wheels are pointing, the vehicle will keep going straight! It is difficult, if not impossible, to discern traffic lanes and edges of the highway on snow-covered roads. In places that get a lot of winter snow there should be tall reflective poles along the edge of the road that can give you some idea of where the road goes, but unless you are on a divided highway there will be no indication of even where your direction of travel is, let alone differentiation between lanes.
Another winter driving hazard is visibility. Snow, whether falling from the sky or being blown from ground sources, can literally reduce visibility to zero. Even without snow there are other winter conditions that make it very difficult to see where you're going, such as fog, especially freezing or frozen fog. You can encounter what is called a "white out", where the only thing you can see is snow and/or fog, leaving you NO landmarks or references to steer by. You can't distinguish any horizon. In fact, sometimes you can't even tell which way is up! If you encounter white-out conditions, pull off the road and STOP! Put on your emergency flashers, and wait for the white-out to clear. Try to get to clear off the road if you can so no one runs into you but take care not to go so far as to get stuck!
The best defense against winter driving is to avoid it! Check the weather before you leave home and monitor weather stations frequently while you are out. If severe weather is headed your way, take appropriate actions to either get out of the area or find a safe place to wait out the storm. Far better to spend a few hours in a rest area or campground or even a Walmart parking lot than have to pull over along the highway and risk getting rear-ended by a big rig trying to make up time or even a snow-plow trying to clear the road for you! If a snowplow happens to go past you while you're parked, you may find yourself behind a berm of snow thrown up by the plow, making it difficult to get back on the road. You may have to get out and dig yourself out. Always carry at least a folding shovel when driving in winter.
Walmart parking lots. Speaking of Walmart parking lots, it is well-known among RVers that most Walmarts are RV-friendly. As RVers we need to show our appreciation for their generosity by demonstrating good behavior when stopping in a Walmart lot and by patronizing their stores. Try to park way out away from the entry doors and take up as few parking spaces as you can. NEVER block driveways or fire lanes. ALWAYS make sure your holding tank valves are tightly closed and the caps securely in place. Police the area around your rig before you leave. Even if the trash was there before you arrived, it is polite and appropriate to leave the area in better condition than it was when you found it. And if its a mess when you leave, you may get blamed even it was already a mess when you got there. The use of Walmart parking lots is a not a right, it is a privilege, one we may lose if we aren't good citizens. I've seen thoughtless folks take up twice as many parking places as they really need, block access ways, driveways, and even fire lanes. Obviously these people are NOT thinking or are completely self-centered. This kind of abuse could very easily lead to Walmart posting "NO RVs" signs if they continue. Note: not all Walmarts allow overnight RV parking. Some are restrained by local ordinances, some by manager decision. Either way it is incumbent upon RVers to obey the rules. Some other businesses also cater to RVers. One I know of is Cracker Barrel.
If you plan to do any winter camping in a tent, you will want to obtain a good four season tent. Summer tents won't keep you warm in snow and freezing temperatures or stand up to snow loads. The fly should come as far down as possible. Some people even sew an extra skirt on the rain fly so it nearly reaches the ground all around. Short flys will allow snow to blow up onto the walls and sometimes even through the vents into the tent. If you want to extend the fly, purchase some nylon fabric that closely matches or complements the existing rain fly and sew it securely to the bottom of the original rain fly. Be sure to hem the new bottom edge and add grommets as needed to properly anchor the whole configuration. Adequate ventilation is required to avoid condensation which will quickly destroy insulation values. An attached vestibule is a good way to keep snow from coming in the door. Tent heaters are desirable in cold weather but be sure to read and follow the instructions religiously. In addition to the potential to set the tent on fire, they may give off toxic fumes and will always consume oxygen unless they obtain their combustion air from the outside. Traditional catalytic tent heaters require ventilation to avoid suffocation. You may be inclined to keep all the windows and vents closed when its cold outside, but doing so could be fatal! I read of an experienced camper who died using a tent heater without sufficient ventilation. The good old Coleman lantern gives off a lot of heat and will often be sufficient to warm a small tent if it isn't TOO cold outside. Just be sure to exercise extreme caution to avoid fire or suffocation.
Sleeping warm in a tent in winter takes some preparation. Start with a good sleeping bag that is rated for the temperatures you are expecting. When I did some snow camping, I used a heavy tarp as a ground cloth beneath my tent, a second tarp covering the floor inside the tent, then opened up an old sleeping bag and laid it out inside before rolling out our regular sleeping bags. That gave us extra padding and extra insulation between us and the snow. After rolling out our regular winter sleeping bags, I laid another opened up bag over both bags. The outside temperature was well below freezing that night, but we stayed warm and cozy. Couples who are used to sleeping together can benefit from having sleeping bags they can zip together to share their warmth with each other.
Protecting your provisions during winter outings. During warm months you need an ice chest to maintain foods at 40° or less to avoid spoilage. During winter months you might use an ice chest to help keep your provisions from freezing! You will need to balance the need to protect your food from animals (by storing it in your vehicle) against freezing (by storing it in your tent). Since bears hibernate during winter months, you probably won't have to deal with them, but many other animals (wolves, coyotes, and raccoons for example) are likely to become bolder as limited winter food supplies boosts their hunger.
Dress for winter weather. You can handle colder, nastier weather than you might think IF you are properly dressed for it. Consider skiers and snowmobilers who regularly brave sub-zero temperatures and blizzards in relative comfort. The secret is dressing in layers. Not only do multiple layers give added insulation to preserve body heat, they allow you to adjust as circumstances (temperatures, level of activity) change. The air between layers can also be a factor in added insulation. Start with a warm, comfortable base layer. You want this layer to be fairly form fitting. It should be made a material that will both insulate and wick away perspiration. Cotton has long been the fundamental fabric but there are some excellent synthetics with exceptional performance these days. Though not what you're probably used to wearing as underwear, you will want these garments to be long legged and long sleeved. Next comes a layer of comfortable clothing (pants, shirts). Generally the pants should be fairly thick material and ideally somewhat waterproof unless you plan to wear a waterproof layer over them. Shirts should be fairly loose and comfortable. Flannel and fleece are popular options for warm shirts. In really cold weather you might need to add a sweater or sweatshirt. For OHV riding, you can buy "Windchill" jerseys that are warmer than regular jerseys. Next you will need a warm coat. One with a hood is good to keep your head and neck warm. In really cold weather you will want an additional pair of pants. Ideally they should be wind and water proof. Depending on just how cold it is you might opt for insulated pants for extra warmth. Or you could substitute a snowmobile suit for jacket and pants. A warm hat is essential. My grandmother taught us "if your feet are cold, put on your hat". There is actually something scientific behind this old folk saying. You can lose a lot of heat through your head. Wearing a warm hat will help keep your blood warm which in turn helps keep your extremities warm. You may also want to wear a baclacava or ski mask to keep your face warm. I was surprised how much warmer my face was even with a thin nylon face mask that I can wear under my helmet when dirt biking. My favorite cold weather hat is a Russian Ushanka but even a good stocking cap will help keep your ears and head warm and can be comfortably worn under the hood of most coats and jackets. And, speaking of feet, they, too, need proper sock systems to ensure comfort. Start with a pair of well fitting light socks that will protect your feet against chafing and blisters and wick away perspiration. Then add some warm socks. Wool socks are the traditional standard and retrain their insulating properties even when wet. You can purchase battery powered heated socks if your really need extra help keeping your feet warm or use chemical toe warmers. Finally, some waterproof insulated boots such as snow boots to keep your feet warm and dry. You will need warm gloves or mittens for your hands. Mittens will keep your hands warmer but you sacrifice some dexterity. You can use chemical hand warmers in either mittens or gloves for added comfort. Using soft glove liners can add extra protection and adapt regular OHV gloves for winter use. Well insulated, waterproof gloves should keep your hands warm. Why waterproof gloves and other clothing? In most cold climates you will encounter snow and as snow melts you need your outer layer to be waterproof to ensure your other layers stay dry. One final piece of useful gear is a baclacava or face mask to keep your face warm. Knitted ski masks or military bacalcavas will be warmest, but even a thin nylon face mask, which can be worn under an OHV helmet, will help a lot. Wear sunglasses to protect your eyes. The glare off snow can be brutal!
Winter campfires. Cozying up to a nice, warm, crackling fire on a cold day is certainly appealing. There are some special considerations when building campfires in winter. First, try to scrape away the snow down to the ground. A fire built on snow will sink into the snow and be drowned by snow melt. If you can't scrape down to the ground, build a platform of green logs or large, flat stones on which to build your fire to keep it away from the snow. A piece of sheet metal might keep your fire out of the snow, but the heat transferred through it will melt the snow underneath and you could still have a problem with flooding from snow melt around and into your fire. You also need to be aware of what is overhead. Building a fire under snow-laden trees is a catastrophe waiting to happen. Heat from the fire may loosen snow on the branches and it will come crashing down and put out your fire. It could also cause injuries to anyone it falls on and, at the very least, would be a quite unpleasant, unwanted, and unproductive surprise to be pummeled with snow when you're trying to warm up around the fire.
Winter camping is cool!
Camping With Pets
Many of us have furry, four-footed friends that are a big part of our lives. With proper training and preparation, they can be part of our camping and RVing lifestyle. You need to always be aware of two important aspects of camping with pets: 1) your pets' safety and comfort and 2) avoiding subjecting fellow campers to unwanted exposure to your pets. Just like you and your human family, your pets will need some time to adjust to camping or RVing and you need to provide for their safety and comfort. NEVER leave your pets unattended in your camp or RV. Bring along their favorite food and water dishes and a few favorite toys. NEVER let you pets roam free. They may get in trouble with other campers or other campers' pets, they may leave unwanted deposits, and they may become attractive meals or other targets for local predators. Most of our pets won't have the experience to adequately defend themselves against wild animals. I had a friend who brought their cat with them and no one ever really knew the cat was around. She stayed in their trailer all the time and never made a sound. I didn't even know he liked cats. The license plate frame on his big pickup truck said "Cats Flattened While You Wait". Some other members of our group had dogs. Most were well-behaved, quiet, and friendly and quickly became beloved camp mascots. On the other hand, I tried taking our dogs on an outing or two and quickly learned they weren't the camping types! I found them noisy and difficult to control so we opted to leave them home after that. They were generally well-behaved at home, but the novelty of camping threw them for a loop. Perhaps I could have trained them to be better campers if I had had more patience, but it was easier just to leave them at home. We brought our cat along when we spent the summer living in our RV while we worked at a resort. She was pretty scared to begin with, but adapted to life in camp surprisingly quickly and since she was basically an indoor cat she was safe and never a problem to anyone around us. One unexpected thing we learned from that experience was how many hiding places there were in our RV!
Medical needs. Just like us, our pets sometimes have special medical needs that will need attention during an outing. Be sure to bring along any medications that are currently in use. If you're traveling any significant distance from home, bring along vaccination records. Specific pet first aid kits are available for dogs and cats to give you convenient supplies to deal with common injuries and ailments. When traveling and/or staying away from home, research available veterinary services along your route and near your destination. One of my daughters was bitten by a dog during one of our outings. Since the owners couldn't provide vaccination records, local law enforcement quarantined the dog for two weeks at the owner's expense and I had to foot the bill for my daughter's examination and treatment.
Noisy pets. Noisy pets will quickly bring the wrath of fellow campers. Either find a way to keep them quiet or leave them home! That may seem harsh, but it is reality. You may find yourself in a dangerous physical confrontation with angry campers or they may seek to harm your pets in order to shut them up. Far better to leave them with a friend or in a kennel than risk the physical harm that could come to them -- or you! And though kennels can be expensive, they're not nearly as expensive as law suits if your pet injures someone or the cost of repairs if they tear up things in your RV or the vet costs if your pet is injured or gets ill. As mentioned above, one of my daughters was bitten in the face by an unrestrained dog. In addition to medical expenses, the owner had to deal with a costly two week quarantine of their beloved pet because they couldn't prove rabies shots. Fortunately my daughter was not seriously injured and healed quickly.
Pet sanitation. Developed campgrounds and many road side rest areas will have specially marked pet areas where you can take your pets to "do their business". If your pet soils the grass in or around your camp or anyone else's, clean it up immediately. If you are boondocking where there is no designated pet area, take your pets far from any other campers and avoid letting them soil trails, roads, or public areas where people or vehicles may pass. If there is any doubt about using an appropriate pet area, carry a plastic bag with you and clean up after them. No, it isn't fun, but IS your responsibility.
Pet Provisions. Of course you will need to bring along food for your pets sufficient to last the length of your trip. You should also pack a pet first aid kit. Check with your veterinarian to determine what to bring along. If your pets require any special medication, make sure you bring it along. Where will your pet sleep? If they normally sleep with you at home, you should probably try to let them sleep with you when camping. If they have a bed of their own, bring it along if it is practical to do so. The last thing you or your fellow campers need is a restless pet running around or whining all night long.
Regulations. Be sure to check local laws and regulations. Call ahead to developed campgrounds to find out if they are pet friendly. Check with the land managers (rangers) for BLM and Forest Service areas to see if pets are allowed and if there are any special threats or considerations you need to plan for. Pets are discouraged in many areas where predators are prevalent. Better to leave Fluffy at home than have her become a snack for a coyote, mountain lion, bear, or a raccoon!
Don't show up at a resort or campground with a pet if you haven't confirmed a pet-friendly reservation. You may be turned away or have to pay higher than expected fees. Indoor accommodations sometimes need to be kept free to meet the needs of customers with allergies. Properly cleaning a non-pet room so it is usable again after a pet intrusion is time consuming and expensive process, which YOU will be held legitimately liable for if you violate pet rules.
Have a purr-fectly good trip!
Medical needs. Just like us, our pets sometimes have special medical needs that will need attention during an outing. Be sure to bring along any medications that are currently in use. If you're traveling any significant distance from home, bring along vaccination records. Specific pet first aid kits are available for dogs and cats to give you convenient supplies to deal with common injuries and ailments. When traveling and/or staying away from home, research available veterinary services along your route and near your destination. One of my daughters was bitten by a dog during one of our outings. Since the owners couldn't provide vaccination records, local law enforcement quarantined the dog for two weeks at the owner's expense and I had to foot the bill for my daughter's examination and treatment.
Noisy pets. Noisy pets will quickly bring the wrath of fellow campers. Either find a way to keep them quiet or leave them home! That may seem harsh, but it is reality. You may find yourself in a dangerous physical confrontation with angry campers or they may seek to harm your pets in order to shut them up. Far better to leave them with a friend or in a kennel than risk the physical harm that could come to them -- or you! And though kennels can be expensive, they're not nearly as expensive as law suits if your pet injures someone or the cost of repairs if they tear up things in your RV or the vet costs if your pet is injured or gets ill. As mentioned above, one of my daughters was bitten in the face by an unrestrained dog. In addition to medical expenses, the owner had to deal with a costly two week quarantine of their beloved pet because they couldn't prove rabies shots. Fortunately my daughter was not seriously injured and healed quickly.
Pet sanitation. Developed campgrounds and many road side rest areas will have specially marked pet areas where you can take your pets to "do their business". If your pet soils the grass in or around your camp or anyone else's, clean it up immediately. If you are boondocking where there is no designated pet area, take your pets far from any other campers and avoid letting them soil trails, roads, or public areas where people or vehicles may pass. If there is any doubt about using an appropriate pet area, carry a plastic bag with you and clean up after them. No, it isn't fun, but IS your responsibility.
Pet Provisions. Of course you will need to bring along food for your pets sufficient to last the length of your trip. You should also pack a pet first aid kit. Check with your veterinarian to determine what to bring along. If your pets require any special medication, make sure you bring it along. Where will your pet sleep? If they normally sleep with you at home, you should probably try to let them sleep with you when camping. If they have a bed of their own, bring it along if it is practical to do so. The last thing you or your fellow campers need is a restless pet running around or whining all night long.
Some people rely on their pets for additional security in camp. Clearly a 100 lb snarling Rottweiler will deter all but the most determined burglars, but even a yapping Pekinese may be enough to attract enough attention to send them looking for safer pickings.
Regulations. Be sure to check local laws and regulations. Call ahead to developed campgrounds to find out if they are pet friendly. Check with the land managers (rangers) for BLM and Forest Service areas to see if pets are allowed and if there are any special threats or considerations you need to plan for. Pets are discouraged in many areas where predators are prevalent. Better to leave Fluffy at home than have her become a snack for a coyote, mountain lion, bear, or a raccoon!
Wild animals may present a threat to your pets, especially if you are boondocking. You pets probably haven't had experience with wild animals and their natural curiosity may lead them to unpleasant or even dangerous encounters with local wildlife. I grew up in a rural environment and even with dogs who were raised there we usually had to pull porcupine quills from their noses at least once or twice each summer and more than once they came home with the unmistakable proof of an encounter with a skunk! Raccoons are kind of cute but they can be very ferocious and often carry rabies so you don't want to mess around -- or let your pets -- mess around with them.
Don't show up at a resort or campground with a pet if you haven't confirmed a pet-friendly reservation. You may be turned away or have to pay higher than expected fees. Indoor accommodations sometimes need to be kept free to meet the needs of customers with allergies. Properly cleaning a non-pet room so it is usable again after a pet intrusion is time consuming and expensive process, which YOU will be held legitimately liable for if you violate pet rules.
Have a purr-fectly good trip!
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