Winter Rving and Camping

Having lived in southern California until a few years ago, I haven't done a lot of winter RVing but I have been out in the snow more than once. Somehow, at least for most of us "snow camping" just doesn't have the same appeal as enjoying the sunshine and green grass or beaches, but some people do find it attractive. Your RV can be your mobile ski chalet or hunting lodge -- if it is properly equipped and you are prepared for winter driving.

You can go RV or tent camping in the winter. You just have to make the right preparations. RV camping will usually be more warmer and comfortable, but with the right clothing and gear tent camping can be fun, safe, and enjoyable too.

Most RVs made in the US do not come from the factory equipped for winter use. A few do have enclosed and heated underbellies.  Those manufactured in Canada are more likely to come from the factory prepared for four season use.  If yours is not 'winter hardened' and you want to do some winter camping, you will need to add heat tape to the holding tanks and exposed plumbing to prevent them from freezing. Heat tape usually requires 120 volt electricity so you'll need to run you generator while on the road as well as in camp unless you are connected to shore power. However, some heat pads and tape will also work on 12 volt DC -- if you have sufficient battery capacity.  Heating elements draw a lot of current.  Some factory-winterized units heat the holding tanks and plumbing using ducts from the furnace but that kind of after the sale modifcations are usually cost prohibitive if they are even possible.  Sometimes just adding a 100 watt incandescent light bulb to an exterior compartment will be enough to provide freeze protection -- if  you have 120 volt power to run it as needed.

Many newer RVs feature double-pane windows which help reduce heat loss to maintain a comfortable temperature inside your RV in summer and winter. For older models, you can apply heat-shrink plastic storm windows (available at hardware stores and home centers). Other easier, more flexible options include reflective foam interior insulating panels, similar to windshield sun blockers. These can be used in the summer to keep the heat out and in the winter to help keep it in. Keep the curtains, drapes, or blinds closed as much as possible to further reduce heat loss.  If you use your RV a lot in the winter or find it is difficult to keep it warm, you might try replacing the curtains or drapes with heavier, insulated drapes.

Drafts. You can loose a surprising amount of heat through small openings around where plumbing and electrical wiring passes through RV walls. Seal these openings with spray foam or silicone caulk. Ordinary foam weatherstripping can often be used to reduce drafts around pedals and control cables that pass through the firewall of your vehicle. Spray foam can also be used to insulate the inside of exterior cabinet doors and provide some protection for exposed plumbing, reducing the amount of energy required for heat tape to do its job. You may find drafts around windows and doors or even where interior walls meet exterior walls or where ceilings or floors meet exterior walls. These may be more likely on older units that have been subjected to years of road vibration and twisting of the coach in normal (or abnormal!) use. Careful and judicious use of spray foam can seal these cracks if adjustment of the doors and windows doesn't solve the problem.

Roof vents. Roof vents provide welcome ventilation in warm weather, but can be a conduit for heat loss in cold weather. Heat rises, so the warmest air in your RV is going to be up near the ceiling, right where it can escape or be cooled by unprotected roof vents. The plastic or acrylic domes or even metal lids provide little insulation. Some permanent skylights have double domes that do provide better protection, but ordinary pop-open roof vents usually do not. RV stores sell pillow-like pads that can be pushed into the vent opening or you can make your own from styrofoam sheets or foam rubber. Or just stuff a throw pillow into the opening. You can also purchase vinyl covers that fasten over the vent using snaps or velcro. The pillow types provide more insulation, but the snap-on covers block a lot of heat loss through air flow and take up less storage room. Another option is to cut foam insulation like Reflectix to fit the roof vent openings as well as covering your windows.   If you bought a roll to make your window covers you may very well have some left over to cut to fit your roof vents.  Be sure to cut it slightly larger than the opening so it will fit tight and stay put.

RV furnaces aren't always able to keep up with freezing winter tempeatures.   If you find that your furnace runs constantly and your RV is  still cold, you may need a bigger furnace -- or a second furnace or other source of heat to keep  your RV comfortable.  Sometimes a good tune up may solve the problem, but unless your find heat runs that are blocked or the flame isn't adjusted properly, it probably just isn't big enough.  Sometimes you can buy a more powerful furnace that will fit in the same place as the old one, but quite often a larger furnace will require a bigger space and might need larger ducting.  Of course you want to make sure you have solved any heat loss problems (drafts, unprotected windows, etc) before you invest in a new furnace.

Auxiliary heaters. Hopefully, if you've weather-proofed your RV, your furnace will provide adequate heat to keep you warm and toasty through cold winter nights. If it does not, you should first make sure it is operating optimally. Blocked heat vents, kinked, looped, or excessively long heat runs, weak fan motors, blocked combustion vents, and improper gas pressure can all have a detrimental effect on furnace performance. If everything is working correctly and you still can't stay warm your furnace may just be too small for your rig and conditions and you may want upgrade the furnace or add an auxiliary heater. A few RVs have more than one furnace.  If yours has only one you may be able to add a second one if there is some convenient cabinet space you can sacrifice.  If you choose this route, have it installed by a qualified professional or make sure it is properly vented and the gas line is leak free.  If you will be mostly staying in campgrounds with shore power or able to run your generator all night (not recommended since exhaust fumes could enter your RV and make you ill or even kill you), you may be able to use an electric heater. This is usually the easiest and most convenient solution if you have 120 volt power available. Many people find this suitable since they only need extra heat while sitting around in the evening and not while snugly tucked in for the night.  Warm bedding is one of  the easiest, least expensive, and most comfortable ways of staying warm at night.  One of the most innovative, appealing and attractive options I've seen for electric heat is a compact electric fireplace. Not only does it provide heat like any other electric heater, it adds a nice, cabin-like ambiance to your RV. However, the ones I've see only have 750W/1500W heat so if you need a lot more heat, get a 3000W or 3500W portable heater. Another popular solution comes in the form of catalytic heaters. These can be permanently mounted and plumbed into your RVs propane system or are available as portable units (often used as tent heaters). In either case, you will need to keep a window or two slightly open to ensure you have an adequate supply of fresh air.  Although some of  these heaters, even the white-gas and propane catalytic heaters, do not give off smoke or toxic fumes they do consume oxygen, so you must make sure you have fresh air coming in at all times so you won't suffocate! I found the white-gas powered Coleman tent heater kept our 16' Smuggler warm all night for the kids to sleep in, even with two windows left open about an inch or so for ventilation. Permanently mounted heaters are safer than portable heaters since they aren't in danger of being tipped over onto a flammable surface. However, take care to keep the area around ALL catalytic heaters clear. They get VERY hot and anything coming into contact with them (clothing, curtains, flesh) will be badly damaged in an instant. If you must run your generator at night, consider an add-on exhaust vent such as a Genturi Exhaust. These attach to the generator exhaust and extend above the roof of your RV to carry exhaust gases up where they are more likely to be dissipated without contaminating the air you are breathing. They cannot be left attached while the vehicle is in motion so you'll need someplace to store the pipes during travel. Be sure to let them cool before disassembling them and storing them.  Unless the extra pipes are sealed at each joint there is still a chance of exhaust fumes leaking where they could pose a problem so it is always best not to run you generator while you're sleeping.

Winter Camp issues. Winter camping brings some new situations you will have to learn to deal with. You will want to have an aggressive exterior welcome mat to help remove snow and keep it from being tracked inside your RV. You may want to bring along a snow shovel to remove snow from pathways from your RV to places you need to go frequently or to clean off the concrete pad around the campground picnic table or from around the fire pit.  BTW, keeping your snow shovel waxed will keep snow from sticking to it,  When it does stick it makes every shovel full heavier and less productive,  Even in winter weather you may find it pleasant to sit or stand around a campfire. If you are staying in a campground with hookups, you will need to protect your fresh water line and sewer dump lines from freezing. Heat tape is the most effective way of doing this. You can also wrap your fresh water hose with foam pipe insulation to keep the heat in and minimize how much you have to use the heat tape but insulation alone will not prevent freezing. Ideally you will have a thermostat on heat tape and each device so that it will automatically maintain a temperature above freezing. Remember, you don't need holding tanks, plumbing, or water lines to be kept "warm", just above freezing, which is 32°F. A typical target temperature to prevent freezing is 40°F. That way, if there is a sudden drop in ambient temperature, the heat tape or heater will have time to react before the contents freeze. Water expands when it freezes and generates enough force to shatter pipes and split water tanks and water heaters wide open.  Keep an eye on bottled or canned liquids like water or soda pop too.  They can also freeze if left out or if the ice chest they are in is left out in sub-freezing weather.  

Winter activities. If your OHVs include snowmobiles, your activities will likely center around their use. ATVs, especially those with 4WD, are also popular for winter rides. Dirt bikes can be used in the snow, but are not as stable and may need special studded winter tires to get traction. I've seen dirt bikes with a track installed in place of the rear wheel giving them almost the kind of traction snowmobiles  have in snow, but these modifications are expensive.  Beyond the vehicular activities, all the old standard winter activities are readily available: skiing, snowboarding, sledding, ice skating, snowball fights, ice fishing, and building snowmen and snow forts. We've even made ice cream from fresh snow (make sure it isn't contaminated -- as they say, "don't eat yellow snow"), but personally, I prefer a nice cup of hot chocolate in cold weather!  I find frozen treats much more appealing when its hot outside.  BTW, you may have seen the beer commercial where an avid beer fan is seen eating yellow snow as he follows someone carrying a leaking keg.  Trust me.  Most times you find yellow snow it won't be beer, unless its already been cycled through someones kidneys!

When you go out for an activity, leave your RV furnace running  -- unless you are on an extended outing and are concerned about conserving fuel. Then you might want to just turn it down a bit.   DO NOT turn it off completely since you may expose the interior and contents to freezing temperatures that will damage plumbing and freeze provisions. Shoot for around 40° to conserve propane and yet protect interior components from freezing.  If you're not worried about using propane or you won't be gone long, set it to a comfortable temperature.   It is really nice to come back to camp and have a warm place waiting for you. You will find this particularly convenient if your are traveling with children or elderly companions whose tolerance for being cold may be limited. And, should someone get chilled to the point of hypothermia, it could be life-saving. Set the thermostat at 40° if you want to protect your RV against freezing yet conserve propane when you're not "at home". To come back to a comfortably warm unit, a setting of 65 or 70 degrees should be about right. While 65 is bit cool when you're sitting around doing nothing, it is usually a lot warmer than it is outside and will feel really good when you come in from the cold. A setting of 65° will use less propane than 70° but if you have enough propane and really like to be warm, crank it back up to 70° when you come in.  At 65° you may still need a sweater and some warm socks or fuzzy slippers.

Some newer luxury RVs have Hydronic heating systems.    These systems are usually more compatible with cold weather camping.  They use a central boiler that circulates a heated antifreeze solution to distribute heat throughout the coach.  In many cases they also heat holding tanks in enclosed cabinets so they're protected against freezing as long as you don't run out of fuel.  The original Hydronic systems were only available on diesel pushers because they used diesel fuel but a propane version has recently been introduced that will allow their use in gasoline powered motorhomes and even trailers.   Because of the extensive plumbing required it is not practical to retrofit hydronic systems into existing units but it might be a feature to look for if you find yourself in the market for a winterized RV.  The even heat distribution and warm floors are definitely appealing features on cold outings.

Snow accumulation. Watching it snow can be very pleasant, if you are warm and cozy inside your tent or RV. However, the accumulation of snow on flat surfaces -- awnings, RV roofs, and tents should be monitored and the snow removed before it becomes heavy enough to cause structural damage. You can usually just drop an awning all the way down and sweep or brush the snow off of it. If you are tent camping, sweep the snow off the tent frequently to avoid weight build up and to avoid the snow from freezing to the tent. Warmer temperatures inside the tent will melt the snow against the fabric, then the cold snow above it and cold temperatures outside will re-freeze it, making the whole mess very hard to remove.  If  your tent is sturdy enough you might let some snow accumulate for insulation, like an igloo.  12" of snow has about the same insulation "R" factor as the fiberglass bats in the walls of your fixed residence.  But be aware that snow can be heavy.  Light, fluffy snow can still add up to a 14 lbs/sq ft, which can be quite a load on a tent or RV roof.  Wet snow is even heavier.  Take care if you need to remove the snow from the roof of your RV. RV roofs can be very slippery and its a long way down if you fall off. Also, you may not be able to see obstacles on the roof that you may trip over or inadvertently damage slogging through deep snow. If at all possible, use a ladder alongside your RV and sweep or brush the snow off the roof. Although it may seem like a good idea to park under trees for protection from winter weather, it really isn't. Snow can accumulate in the branches of the trees and then fall with surprising force onto the roof of your RV. It can easily crush vent and A/C covers and other accessories and may even cause structural damage to the roof itself. If you MUST park under trees, monitor the snow accumulation in the trees above your RV and be prepared to move if the buildup appears to be reaching dangerous levels. What are dangerous levels? Well, if large clumps are starting to fall from the branches or deep accumulations are forming on the branches (approaching 6" or more), you are looking at a catastrophe in the making.

Winter driving. Hopefully, if you live in an area where you will be doing winter RVing, you already have some experience with winter driving. If not, it probably is not a good idea to make a "snow trip" in the first place! If you have never had any experience with winter driving, you DON'T want you first crack at it to take place behind the wheel of a motorhome or a tow vehicle! Winter driving is difficult enough without adding the extra burden of an over-sized rig. If you are new to winter driving, try to take a few trips in your car or truck by itself before you venture out with a motorhome or travel trailer. You will want to be confident in your winter driving capabilities before adding the extra concerns of a heavy RV.  If possible, practice driving in an empty, snow-covered field or parking lot to get a feel for how your vehicle handles in the snow.

Winter driving brings many hazards. Slick roads are probably the first to come to mind. They may be covered with snow or with "black ice". Another serious consideration is snow accumulation, which will make progress and maneuvering difficult. Appropriate tire chains and 4WD provide some defense against these problems, although tire chains are not very effective against black ice and few RVs are equipped with 4WD. In many higher elevations you will encounter sections where snow chains or 4WD are required. Be sure you have chains that properly fit your RV and practice putting them on and taking them off before you leave home. You won't want to be rolling around in the snow or slush at the side of the road while you learn how to hook them up. Bring along a tarp or use a sleeping pad to lay on to hook up your chains and keep you out of the wet and cold. Chains will give you added traction in snow but you will not be able to drive as fast as you would on clear, dry pavement. However, driving too slow will make you an obstacle for other vehicles and can create its own safety hazards, so you must use common sense and try to maintain a safe speed. Turning and stopping an RV in snow or icy conditions requires a LOT more room than normal, so give yourself time and space. Look ahead and plan and execute your moves carefully. Slow down for all turns. Turning your vehicle depends on there being sufficient friction between your front tires and the road to overcome vehicle momentum and change its direction of travel. Snow and ice reduce friction to where it doesn't matter what direction the wheels are pointing, the vehicle will keep going straight! It is difficult, if not impossible, to discern traffic lanes and edges of the highway on snow-covered roads. In places that get a lot of winter snow there should be tall reflective poles along the edge of the road that can give you some idea of where the road goes, but unless you are on a divided highway there will be no indication of even where your direction of travel is, let alone differentiation between lanes.

Another winter driving hazard is visibility. Snow, whether falling from the sky or being blown from ground sources, can literally reduce visibility to zero. Even without snow there are other winter conditions that make it very difficult to see where you're going, such as fog, especially freezing or frozen fog. You can encounter what is called a "white out", where the only thing you can see is snow and/or fog, leaving you NO landmarks or references to steer by. You can't distinguish any horizon.  In fact, sometimes you can't even tell which way is up! If you encounter white-out conditions, pull off the road and STOP! Put on your emergency flashers, and wait for the white-out to clear. Try to get to clear off the road if you can so no one runs into you but take care not to go so far as to get stuck!

The best defense against winter driving is to avoid it! Check the weather before you leave home and monitor weather stations frequently while you are out. If severe weather is headed your way, take appropriate actions to either get out of the area or find a safe place to wait out the storm. Far better to spend a few hours in a rest area or campground or even a Walmart parking lot than have to pull over along the highway and risk getting rear-ended by a big rig trying to make up time or even a snow-plow trying to clear the road for you! If a snowplow happens to go past you while you're parked, you may find yourself behind a berm of snow thrown up by the plow, making it difficult to get back on the road. You may have to get out and dig yourself out.  Always carry at least a folding shovel when driving in winter.

Walmart parking lots. Speaking of Walmart parking lots, it is well-known among RVers that most Walmarts are RV-friendly. As RVers we need to show our appreciation for their generosity by demonstrating good behavior when stopping in a Walmart lot and by patronizing their stores. Try to park way out away from the entry doors and take up as few parking spaces as you can. NEVER block driveways or fire lanes. ALWAYS make sure your holding tank valves are tightly closed and the caps securely in place. Police the area around your rig before you leave. Even if the trash was there before you arrived, it is polite and appropriate to leave the area in better condition than it was when you found it.  And if its a mess when  you leave, you may get blamed even it was already a mess when you got there.  The use of Walmart parking lots is a not a right, it is a privilege, one we may lose if we aren't good citizens. I've seen thoughtless folks take up twice as many parking places as they really need, block access ways, driveways, and even fire lanes. Obviously these people are NOT thinking or are completely self-centered. This kind of abuse could very easily lead to Walmart posting "NO RVs" signs if they continue. Note:  not all Walmarts allow overnight RV parking.  Some are restrained by local ordinances, some by manager decision.  Either way it is incumbent upon RVers to obey the rules.   Some other businesses also cater to RVers.  One I know of is Cracker Barrel.

If you plan to do any winter camping in a tent, you will want to obtain a good four season tent. Summer tents won't keep you warm in snow and freezing temperatures or stand up to snow loads. The fly should come as far down as possible. Some people even sew an extra skirt on the rain fly so it nearly reaches the ground all around. Short flys will allow snow to blow up onto the walls and sometimes even through the vents into the tent. If  you want to extend the fly, purchase some nylon fabric that closely matches or complements the existing rain fly and sew it securely to the bottom of the original rain fly.  Be sure to hem the new bottom edge and add grommets as needed to properly anchor the whole configuration.  Adequate ventilation is required to avoid condensation which will quickly destroy insulation values. An attached vestibule is a good way to keep snow from coming in the door. Tent heaters are desirable in cold weather but be sure to read and follow the instructions religiously. In addition to the potential to set the tent on fire, they may give off toxic fumes and will always consume oxygen unless they obtain their combustion air from the outside. Traditional catalytic tent heaters require ventilation to avoid suffocation. You may be inclined to keep all the windows and vents closed when its cold outside, but doing so could be fatal! I read of an experienced camper who died using a tent heater without sufficient ventilation.  The good old Coleman lantern gives off a lot of heat and will often be sufficient to warm a small tent if it isn't TOO cold outside.  Just be sure to exercise extreme caution to avoid fire or suffocation.

Sleeping warm in a tent in winter takes some preparation. Start with a good sleeping bag that is rated for the temperatures you are expecting. When I did some snow camping, I used a heavy tarp as a ground cloth beneath my tent, a second tarp covering the floor inside the tent, then opened up an old sleeping bag and laid it out inside before rolling out our regular sleeping bags. That gave us extra padding and extra insulation between us and the snow. After rolling out our regular winter sleeping bags, I laid another opened up bag over both bags. The outside temperature was well below freezing that night, but we stayed warm and cozy.  Couples who are used to sleeping together can benefit from having sleeping bags they can zip together to share their warmth with each other.

Protecting your provisions during winter outings. During warm months you need an ice chest to maintain foods at 40° or less to avoid spoilage. During winter months you might use an ice chest to help keep your provisions from freezing! You will need to balance the need to protect your food from animals (by storing it in your vehicle) against freezing (by storing it in your tent). Since bears hibernate during winter months, you probably won't have to deal with them, but many other animals (wolves, coyotes, and raccoons for example) are likely to become bolder as limited winter food supplies boosts their hunger.

Dress for winter weather.   You can handle colder, nastier weather than you might think IF you are properly dressed for it.  Consider skiers and snowmobilers who regularly brave sub-zero temperatures and blizzards in relative comfort.  The secret is dressing in layers.  Not only do multiple layers give added insulation to preserve body heat, they allow you to adjust as circumstances (temperatures, level of activity) change.  The air between layers can also be a factor in added insulation.  Start with a warm, comfortable base layer.  You want this layer to be fairly form fitting.  It should be made a material that will both insulate and wick away perspiration.  Cotton has long been the fundamental fabric but there are some excellent synthetics with exceptional performance these days.  Though not what you're probably used to wearing as underwear, you will want these garments to be long legged and long sleeved.  Next comes a layer of comfortable clothing (pants, shirts).  Generally the pants should be fairly thick material and ideally somewhat waterproof unless you plan to wear a waterproof layer over them.  Shirts should be fairly loose and comfortable.  Flannel and fleece are popular options for warm shirts.  In really cold weather you might need to add a sweater or sweatshirt.  For OHV riding, you can buy "Windchill" jerseys that are warmer than regular jerseys.  Next you will need a warm coat.  One with a hood is good to keep your head and neck warm.  In really cold weather you will want an additional pair of pants.  Ideally they should be wind and water proof.  Depending on just how cold it is you might opt for insulated pants for extra warmth.  Or  you could substitute a snowmobile suit for jacket and pants.  A warm hat is essential.  My grandmother taught us "if your feet are cold, put on  your hat".  There is actually something  scientific behind this old folk saying.  You can lose a lot of heat through your head. Wearing a warm hat will help keep your blood warm which in turn helps keep your extremities warm.  You may also want to wear a baclacava or ski mask to keep your face warm.  I was surprised how much warmer my face was even with a thin nylon face mask that I can wear under my helmet when dirt biking.  My favorite cold weather hat is a Russian Ushanka but even a good stocking cap will help keep your ears and head warm and can be comfortably worn under the hood of most coats and jackets.  And, speaking of feet, they, too, need proper sock systems to ensure comfort. Start with a pair of well fitting light socks that will protect your feet against chafing and blisters and wick away perspiration.  Then add some warm socks.  Wool socks are the traditional standard and retrain their insulating properties even when wet.  You can purchase battery powered heated socks if your really need extra help keeping your feet warm or use chemical toe warmers.  Finally, some waterproof insulated boots such as snow boots to keep your feet warm and dry.  You will need warm gloves or mittens for your hands.  Mittens will keep your hands warmer but you sacrifice some dexterity.  You can use chemical hand warmers in either mittens or gloves for added comfort.  Using soft glove liners can add extra protection and adapt regular OHV gloves for winter use.  Well insulated, waterproof gloves should keep  your hands warm.  Why waterproof gloves and other clothing?  In most cold climates you will encounter snow and as snow melts you need your outer layer to be waterproof to ensure your other layers stay dry.  One final piece of useful gear is a baclacava or face mask to keep your face warm.  Knitted ski masks or military bacalcavas will be warmest, but even a thin nylon face mask, which can be worn under an OHV helmet, will help a lot.  Wear sunglasses to protect your eyes.  The glare off snow can be brutal!

Winter campfires. Cozying up to a nice, warm, crackling fire on a cold day is certainly appealing. There are some special considerations when building campfires in winter. First, try to scrape away the snow down to the ground. A fire built on snow will sink into the snow and be drowned by snow melt. If you can't scrape down to the ground, build a platform of green logs or large, flat stones on which to build your fire to keep it away from the snow.  A piece of sheet metal might keep your fire out of the snow, but the heat transferred through it will melt the snow underneath and you could still have a problem with flooding from snow melt around and into your fire.  You also need to be aware of what is overhead. Building a fire under snow-laden trees is a catastrophe waiting to happen. Heat from the fire may loosen snow on the branches and it will come crashing down and put out your fire. It could also cause injuries to anyone it falls on and, at the very least, would be a quite unpleasant, unwanted, and unproductive surprise to be pummeled with snow when you're trying to warm up around the fire.

Winter camping is cool!