Maintaining Your RV's Exterior Appearance

RVs represent a substantial investment for most people, so naturally you'll want to keep yours looking as good as possible for as long as possible. Not only is it more pleasing to look at and to be seen in, it will help retain resale value if you keep it in good condition. A clean, shiny RV will also be somewhat more visible, making it a bit safer.  Theoretically, a smooth, shiny, well polished surface will also offer lest wind resistance and, considering the huge surface area of most RVs, that can translate to slightly better fuel economy.  Last but certainly not least, having a clean RV makes it easier to detect any developing problems such as loose fasteners, cracks, or deteriorating caulk around doors, windows, and fixtures.  Besides that, they're a lot more fun to look at than a dirty, faded rig.

Sunlight is very damaging to RV surfaces. It fades and oxidizes paint, decals, and rubber and plastic trim. It damages tires. It fades and rots exposed curtains and upholstery. A key way to protect your RV is to keep it out of direct sunlight as much as possible. Carports or sheds large enough to house an RV are rather expensive, but provide the necessary protection and are convenient to use. RV covers are a less expensive, albeit more labor intensive alternative and less convenient. You will see people using cheap tarps to cover their RVs, but a good quality RV cover provides much better protection. RV covers are usually breathable so they don't promote the accumulation to of moisture like ordinary tarps can do. Tarps also tend to be more abrasive and may damage paint and other RV surfaces as the wind blows if they are wrapped or directly on the RV. It will be better for the RV if the tarp is stretched above it like an awning -- but the tarp will be more difficult to secure and more susceptible to wind. Tire covers are relatively inexpensive and easy to use and, especially given how expensive it is to replace the tires on an RV, they are a good investment.

Keep your RV clean. Dirt and road film build up on our RVs while traveling and even while sitting in storage. This film tends to accelerate damage to RV surfaces and, besides that, it looks ugly. Dirt acts as microscopic sanding particles at highway speeds. The film that accumulates over time also speeds deterioration of clear coats and paint by trapping UV rays.  An acquaintance, who ran a body and paint shop in southern California, offered his customers a lifetime warranty on clear coat if they would just wash their cars at least twice a month.  Washing an RV is much like washing a car. It's just a LOT bigger! Use  good quality soap made for washing cars or RVs.  Many people use dish washing detergent.  It cleans OK, but it also tends to strip away the wax, so, unless stripping the wax is your intended goal, don't use dish soap.  Being by rinsing off the entire rig working from the top down before applying soap and starting to scrub.  Always begin by washing the roof first so any debris or dirty/soapy water can be washed off when you wash the sides. Take care when washing the roof of an RV. Not all roofs are constructed to allow full walk-on over the entire roof area. If the roof seems spongy when you step on it, try to find areas that have more internal support as you move around to clean the surface or put down a piece of plywood to distribute your weight. The types of chemicals you use to clean the roof will depend on what kind of roof surface you have. Most roofs can be safely washed with ordinary car wash soap, but some rubber roofs require special cleaners to prevent damage and restore and condition the surface. Be careful moving around on the roof. There are usually many obstacles up there you could trip over, and it is a L_O_N_G way to the ground! Watch out for vents, antennas, searchlights, storage pods, A/C units, and roof racks.  Once it is clean, using a good wax goes a long way toward keeping fiberglass and painted surfaces that way and protecting the paint and decals.  Wax should include UV inhibitors that help prevent sun damage.  I've found I can restore the luster and shine to many painted surfaces using a Turtle Wax product called "Colorback".  I've also had pretty good luck with "Speed Wax" from Maxim.  Speed Wax goes on and wipes off easily. If the paint isn't TOO badly faded you can get pretty good results with minimal effort. Severely damaged paint may required polishing with rubbing compound, a tedious and time consuming, but effective process.  Many RVers favor a product called "Protectall", which is easy to use and provides a slick, shiny surface and adds UV protection.  It was originally developed by a chemist for use on his personal airplane to maintain the appearance and to reduce wind drag.

Sap, road tar, and bird droppings often stain our vehicles and can be very difficult to remove without damaging the finish.  Specialized automotive cleaners can make the task easier but getting crap off before it has time to bake on is the best solution.  Once it has dried it may have etched the surface, making it more difficult to remove and leaving a mark once it has been removed.  Cleaning off stains on a daily basis when traveling in your RV isn't something most of us want to take time to do, but it can save a lot of effort down the road and perhaps even save the finish.  Be very careful using any kind of abrasive cleaners or pads since they may damage the finish.  Better to soak the offending spots with warm car wash solution or bug/tar remover for several minutes and wipe it with a soft cloth.  You might use something like a Mr Clean Magic Eraser on stubborn spots, but be careful not to rub too hard or you may still damage the finish.  Steel wool or even razor blades can be used on glass or chrome, but even the plastic scrubbers like "Scothbrite" pads can be rough enough to damage paint, clearcoat, and fiberglass.  Mineral spirits can be used to remove road tar.  There are specialized products for removing bugs, like the Love Bug Eraser and  Prosol Bugs N All.  The Love Bug Eraser is a cleaning sponge made of non-abrasive fibers.  Bugs N All is a spray on cleaner that quickly softens dried bugs for easy removal.  But even if you plan to use these specialty products, you'll want to get the bugs off as soon as you can so they don't adhere tightly to the surface or perhaps stain it as they decompose, especially on light colored surfaces.  Using these must might make the task easy enough and fast enough to do as needed while on a trip.

Unlike automobiles, RVs have several different types of surfaces and each requires its own specific cleaners and treatments for optimum appearance.  Many RVs have unpainted fiberglass siding.  Some have painted aluminum. Airstream trailers use unpainted aluminum siding.  Full body automotive style paint has become more popular in recent years.  Full body paint jobs require the same care you would give your car.  Wash and wax small sections at a time.  RV roofs may be finished similar to the sides and may be made of alumninum or fiberglass, but some have rubber roofs.  Make sure you know what you have and then use the appropriate cleaners, re-conditioners, and sealants for each one. If your RV has an automotive type paint you can clean, polish, and wax is like you would your car.   Unfinished aluminum or fiberglass units need special cleaners and special attention.   Some high quality auto polish/wax products can be used on fiberglass, especially if it has painted graphics.  I like using SC-1 detail spray on vinyl graphics.

Just like washing a car, begin by spraying the entire surface with clean water to rinse away loose debris and start soaking. Use direct scrubbing with a clean, soft cloth or sponge on stubborn stains. "Black streaks" are a common ailment with many RVs, the result of water running off the roof or around caulked seams, windows and doors. Special "Black Streak Remover" is available at RV supply stores and it will make cleaning a lot easier. When scrubbing, take care that you do not have any grit or dirt on your cloth or sponge as it will scratch the surface. If you should scratch the surface in this manner, you can probably buff it out using a rubbing compound, but that is a lot of extra work, so it is better to avoid damaging the surface in the first place. Wash, rinse, and dry a section at a time, no more than 2 or 3 feet square. Trying to do too large an area at once will likely leave you with stubborn water or soap spots that have dried on the portions you did first. Use a good window cleaner to clean the windows and windshield. If your RV is subjected to hard water from sprinklers at home or in a campground, you will likely have hard water spots that are difficult to remove. Sometimes the only way to remove them is by using rubbing compound on painted or fiberglass surfaces. Exercise caution using rubbing compound on unpainted fiberglass surfaces as it may damage the surface.You may be able to clean stubborn water spots from glass and chrome using a single-edge razor blade type scraper. Wet the surface with a strong glass cleaner, vinegar, or hard water treatment solution before and after using the scraper.  Wear latex or rubber gloves to protect your hands from harsh chemical cleaners.  Your windows should be crystal clear when you are done, making your RV more pleasant to look at and enhancing the view from inside your RV. Having a crystal clear windshield improves your view and is safer.  Even slight imperfections or streaks can refract light and create distractions or distort the view for the driver.   Be sure to clean the inside too, where vapors from cooking and even from vinyl upholstery can create a dull film that is especially difficult to see through when in direct sunlight.

Some products require multiple steps, doing cleaning, polishing, and sealing in individual processes using chemicals specific to the task.  This is often believed to deliver the best  results but requires a lot more time and effort than a single-step product that cleans, polishes, and seals in one step.  Multi-step processes obviously require more time and effort, but using products specific to each task and focusing on achieving maximum results at each step usually yields superior results.  But combination products will usually give satisfactory results if used correctly in far less time, often making it more likely that we'll do the job.  You may have to use one-step products more often to maintain a satisfactory appearance but the savings in having only one step may make it will worth it.

Waxing. Waxing an RV can be an intimidating task, but an essential one. Wax helps protect the paint or fiberglass surface from damaging UV rays.  The surface area is huge, quite literally, hundreds of square feet. Use the same techniques to wax an RV that you use to wax your car. Do a section at a time. In the case of an RV, that might mean selecting arbitrary portions of the surface, no more than about two or three foot square at a time. I usually use windows and other exterior features to help keep define the sections and keep track of what has and hasn't been done. Keep the vehicle out of direct sunlight which will dry the wax too quickly and make it difficult to buff out. If yours is an older unit and heavily oxidized, you will want to start with a quality polish/cleaner or even rubbing compound in extreme cases, to prepare the surface for waxing. You might save some time and effort by using a quality automotive combination polish/wax product. A lot of RVers like a product called Protect-All. It was invented by a chemist to wax his private airplane. It goes on easily and protects the finish from dirt, grime, and UV rays. I have tried Protect-All and found it lived up to its advertising claims. It works on just about all RV surfaces (fiberglass, aluminum, or painted).   However, when I'm dealing with heavily oxidized surfaces, I prefer something like Colorback, a popular automotive polish that removes oxidation and provides additives that help restore faded finishes. It works really well on faded paint and I've even had pretty good luck on faded decals and oxidized fiberglass.  Another neat wax product is Speed Wax from Maxim.  It is a one-step wax and polishing product that is easy to use and does a fair job of restoring faded paint.  There are also special products designed to restore badly oxidized fiberglass surfaces which may be worth trying if your fiberglass is dull and chalky.  Apply  Protect-all or a good wax after any rigorous cleaning to seal and protect the surface and preserve the shine.  There are products called shine boosters that can perk up the paint job between waxings.  They are fairly easy to use but won't provide the depth of shine nor long lasting protection of real wax.  Liquid, one step car polish and wax products are OK, but using a good paste wax after a good cleaning is even better.  It takes a little more effort but it puts down a shinier and more durable finish.

Clean your wheels and tires thoroughly. Commercial tire-cleaners and coatings will give your tires a like-new appearance. A mature mechanic friend of mine suggested using brake fluid instead of tire sprays, claiming it soaks into the rubber and helps replace lost ingredients that protect the tires against sun damage and sidewall cracking. Not sure I agree. It seemed to me that it attracted dust.  I prefer using a tire protectant specifically designed for that purpose, one that is buffed to a nice shine, not those you just spray and leave. While washing the wheels and tires, inspect them for any damage or excessive wear. You may not be able to detect loose lug nuts with your fingers, but if there is any wear or a shiny ring showing on the wheels around the lug nuts, they are or probably have been loose. It wouldn't be a bad idea to check the torque of all the lug nuts with a torque wrench occasionally, just to be safe. The most accurate way to ensure they are properly tightened is to use a torque wrench.  Check cold tire pressure and top off any low tires. While under-inflation can be a serious problem when driving, causing handling problems, tire wear, and dangerous heat buildup, even sitting on under-inflated tires in storage can damage the tires. Bulging tires will take a "set" which creates a bumpy ride until the tire warms up and stretches back into its original shape -- if it ever does! Over-inflation will also adversely affect handling , making the vehicle feel skittish, and cause excessive wear in the middle of the tread. If your tires are wearing on both edges, you may be running them under inflated; if the wear is greater in the middle, they're over inflated.  Either way you're wearing your tire out too quickly and probably experiencing unnecessary handling problems. RV tires are way too expensive to be allowed to fail prematurely!  Wear only on one edge indicates an alignment problem.  You'll want to correct alignment issues to prevent further tire damage and avoid handling problems.

If you have aluminum wheels, which many luxury RVs do, check to see if they are coated or uncoated before attempting to buff them out. Coated wheels should only be washed and not buffed with aggressive wheel cleaners. If you can't tell if your wheels are coated, try cleaning an unobtrusive spot with a bit of wheel cleaner. If the rag quickly turns black, the wheels are uncoated, or at least the spot you're testing is uncoated. If the rag does not turn black, your wheels are coated and you should NOT use aggressive wheel cleaners to buff them out. It will remove the protective coating and accelerate surface oxidation.  Many RVs, especially older ones have wheel covers, wheel simulators, or hub caps over steel wheels.  You can greatly improve the appearance of an RV by replacing old hubcaps with modern wheel simulators that give the appearance of chrome wheels.  There are two styles of wheel simulators:  one that snaps in place like hub caps and one that is fastened under the lug nuts.  You usually only have to remove every other lug nut to install them.  The snap in versions are obviously easier to install but the bolt-on style won't come off on bouncy roads.

There is usually very little chrome or "bright metal" on modern RVs,  but if you do have chrome trim it can be cleaned with metal polish.  You can usually remove rust spots that sometimes pit older chrome surfaces by simply rubbing them with a copper penny.  The copper is hard enough to scrape away the rust but soft enough so it doesn't scratch the chrome plating.  Be careful (or avoid) attempting this technique on polished aluminum as it may scratch the softer metal.  Severely rusted chrome parts might have to be removed and taken to an electroplating shop to be re-chromed to restore a like new appearance.  It requires a bit of work and might be somewhat expensive, but it can significantly improve the appearance and extend the usable life of an older RV.   A good metal polish should restore the shine on most bright metal components, like mirrors, grills, door handles, and bumpers. 

Plastic surfaces, such as taillight lens and many newer headlights may require special treatment to keep them looking -- and working -- like new. There are plastic cleaning kits available from auto supply stores you can use to clean fogged plastic headlight lenses or you can have them done at many auto repair shops or detailers. Cost of a do-it-yourself kit is typically under $10. Having a pair of headlights restored will run you $35 or so. Keeping your lenses clean is more than just cosmetic. Discolored or damaged lenses can be a safety hazard. If you have missing, cracked, or broken lenses on taillights, turn signals, or clearance lights, they are relatively easy and inexpensive to replace. Plastic headlight lenses tend to be quite expensive and difficult to replace so you'll want to keep the originals in good condition as long as you can. Fogged and faded lenses limit and distort the light pattern, significantly reducing the effective range and coverage of headlights, so you'll want to keep them crystal clear if you can! I like to use SC-1 on the all the plastic lenses to brighten and protect them and make them more resistant to sun rot, dirt, and road film after I've cleaned them.

I test all the lights whenever I wash my RV. That way, if any are in need of repair or replacement, I'll have time to take care of it before the next trip. If you find that lights aren't working yet the bulbs are good, chances are the problem is in the ground side of the circuit. You can easily test the "hot" side using a test light or a volt meter. Make sure you have a good ground for your test equipment! RVs are quite prone to grounding problems. Unlike ordinary cars and trucks whose bodies are mostly made of metal that provides a good ground for lights, RVs bodies are often made of wood and fiberglass, both good electrical insulators, so specific ground wires are required. These ground wires may become damaged from the normal twisting and vibration of the unit or the connection to light fixtures or to the vehicle ground may become loose or corroded. Correcting a faulty ground will often cure problems with several lights. Faulty grounds can cause strange symptoms, such as both stop lights blinking when one turn signal is activated. I've even seen a bad ground cause the clearance lights and front park lights to blink along with the turn signals. In this case the turn signal ground was bad and they were grounding back through the tail light circuit, which includes the clearance lights.   To correct a faulty ground connection, carefully remove the screw or bolt securing the terminal.  If the terminal itself is broken or badly damaged, cut it off and replace it.  Clean the surface it connects to with cleaning solvent and a wire brush and/or emery cloth until it is clean and shiny before reconnecting the terminal.  If you didn't replace the terminal, be sure to clean the old one thoroughly before connecting.  If the connecting screw is badly rusted or corroded, replace it with a new one, preferable stainless steel so it will resist future corrosion.

When you wash your RV is also a good time to check for leaks around doors, windows, vents, etc. If you find any leaks, take appropriate measures to fix them as soon as possible. You may have to wait a day or two for the area to dry before you can make repairs, so keep a log of what you find. Also pay attention to the seams in your RV "skin". If anything is starting to come loose you will want to correct it immediately before it gets any worse. Some loose fasteners may only need to be tightened or, if the defective areas involve pop-rivets instead of screws, you may have to drill them out and replace them. Timely replacement of a few failed fasteners may prevent far more extensive and expensive repairs that will be needed if the whole component comes off! Make sure to use an appropriate sealant between mating surfaces to ensure a watertight seam. Roof vents, which are exposed to a lot of sunlight and lots of wind, are particularly prone to loosening, so pay particular attention to them. Most RV windows are doors are installed using putty tape and are often also sealed with silicone caulk. Sometimes you can clean off the old caulk and replace it to stop a leak but often you may have to remove the door or window and scrape off and replace the putty tape for a permanent repair. An RV roof and waterproofing specialist recommended the use of DAP sealer rather than ordinary household caulk. The household caulk is easier to find and less expensive, but in my experience, the DAP sealant looks and works better. Be careful to apply only enough to seal the gaps. Excessive caulk is really ugly, especially around windows, and actually won't seal as well as using the proper amount.  It is normal to use copious amounts of caulk around the screws and edges of roof vents.  The caulking on RV roofs typically needs to be scraped off and redone every year or two.

Repainting an RV can be an expensive project so you want to keep yours in as good as condition as possible. I saw the invoice for just a partial paint job on one of my RVs and I'm glad it was done BEFORE I bought it. The previous owner paid over $6000 to repaint just the lower 2' and one 6" band across the front! Unless the color is something you can't live with, I would always try restoring the finish using ColorBack or a similar product before resorting to repainting. I have had some success repainting stripes myself on travel trailers and truck campers. Most of each unit was white, but they each had some sections that had been a highlight color that had long since faded beyond recognition or repair. The stripes on one camper were originally a nice walnut colored wood grain finish. When I got it, they had faded to an even light brown the color of cocoa powder with the sheen (or lack thereof) of primer. These sections are usually small enough that you can mask them off and, if you have a fairly good technique with a spray can, can repaint them to give new brilliance to the RV.  Preparing the surface properly is a key factor in getting good results.  Dirt, grime, road tar, and all the old wax must be completely removed.  Using a primer also helps to get the paint to adhere securely.   Sometimes the surface is dippled. When it is, it is easier to blend paint strokes and avoid runs. If you do get runs you may be able to gently blot them away and touch up the area with another light spray.   Large, completely smooth surfaces will require a more professional touch with an air powered spray gun for good results. If you doubt whether your equipment or skill will be adequate, you should probably invest in having it done by a professional. A poor paint job may look worse than the faded original, lowering both your satisfaction with the appearance and the potential resale or trade in value.  I have seen RVs that were repainted using house paint and a brush and roller and they looked like crap!  If that's your only alternative, don't waste your time!

With appropriate care you can keep your RV looking good for many years. You will feel better about using it and it will retain its resale value better if it is well maintained.

Keep it clean!