Is Spring Ever Going to Get Here?

Spring seems to be reluctant to show itself this year.  Here in McKenzie Bridge, Oregon we celebrated the first day of spring (March 20, 2023) with a Winter Storm Alert, forecasting up to 48" of new snow above 3000'!  Fortunately we didn't get nearly that much at our 1300' elevation, but even 2/3 of the way through April we are still getting snow.  Of course this is good news for areas so hard hit by recent drought.  Last I heard, Oregon was at 172% of normal snow, California about the same, and Utah at 201%!   All the extra snow should help refill some of the lakes and reservoirs that are at historic lows but it will take several years for them to fully recover from so many years of drought.

The late spring may have caused some RVers and campers to postpone spring cleaning and other preparations for a new recreational season.  Although we might not be able to get out and enjoy all of our favorite places for camping and outdoor recreation for a while yet, it is still a good idea to being preparations.  It usually takes a little time to get everything out of storage, cleaned, re-provisioned, and ready for the new season.  It seem like no matter how carefully we perform our winterization procedures, we always find something that needs repair or extra cleaning or other extra help before we are ready to hit the road.  Pests can infiltrate tents, sleeping bags, clothing, and provisions even when we have them stored in the most secure ways we can devise.  The last thing you want is to unroll your tent or sleeping bag in camp and discover is has been soiled or devoured by ravenous insects!  Such a discovery is never fun, but it is a lot better to make it at home where we can do something about it well in advance of needing to use it on an outing.

Having a delayed start on our outdoor activities can also give us a chance to do a little more research and a little more planning.  Doing so can enhance our summer activities more than you can imagine.  Whether you are looking for new places to go and things to do or just learning more about your favorite haunts, spending a little time on the Internet asking some relevant questions can yield a plethora of fun and useful information.  Knowing more of the geological and historical aspects of where we are headed can be a lot of fun and add greater depth to out enjoyment.  My family and friends had been dirt biking around Randsburg and Searles Station in the Mojave Desert in California before I learned that one of our usual campsites (Garden City) had once been a major stop for the famous Borax 20 Mule Teams and then a primary rail center.   All that remained when we were there was a decaying railroad water tower.  Not too far from there is also a small monument erected by an Eagle Scout at the site of an X15 crash to recognize the sacrifice of Major Michael Adams, American's 27th Astronaut (having flown the X15 to more than 266,000 feet) and the first official astronaut casualty. The concrete marker isn't grandiose, but it sparks the imagination. Try Googling "X15 crash site" for details and photos.

Given the long history of many of our state and national parks, you can almost always find lots of interesting stories regarding past and even regular ongoing events that can be fun to know and fun to share.  Some places, like Yellowstone and Devils Tower, have tons of geological features you will enjoy learning about too.

I have a couple of "spring" poems I find kind of fun:

FIRST:

Spring has sprung

The Grass has riz

I wonder where the flowers is! 

SECOND (actually kind of focused on summer, but starts with spring):

Spring has sprung

Fall has fell

Summer's come

And its hotter than ... it oughta be!

About a week after posting this lament on the delayed spring we suddenly had several very warm days, with temps getting up to 95F!  But now the highs are back down in the 60s and even down into the 50s in the coming days.  So, you never know what the weather is going to do!  Don't like the weather?  Just wait a minute!

Well, only a week or so after the late Winter Storm Alert we are back to 80 and 90 degree days.  The trees have leaves and lawns need to be mowed every week.  Guess it is about time to start planning this season's outings.

Enjoy the delay!

Winterization Reminder

Just a quick reminder that if you live in a 4-season climate, it is time to winterize your RVs, OHVs, and camping equipment.  Since I have covered winterization in detail in previous posts I won't repeat it here, just cover a few basic topics to help remind you of what you need to be doing.  Not properly winterizing your RVs, OHVs, boats, and camping equipment can expose them to severe damage caused by freezing in cold climates and may invite mold and mildew or damage by pests everywhere.  Water systems are usually a primary focus of winterization.  In cold climates unprotected systems can freeze and since water expands when it freezes, freezing can cause significant damage that can be expensive, sometimes impossible, to repair.  In milder climates water systems stagnant water may develop bad odors and can even accumulate toxic mold and mildew.  Winterization focuses mainly on freeze protection because that is most likely to cause severe damage, but properly cleaning and storing everything is critical to keeping it in good working condition and prevent unwanted damage during storage.  Soiled tents, sleeping bags, and clothing will attract pests that can wreak severe damage on the soft materials.  Bugs (including moths) eat holes in things; mice chew things up and leave nasty droppings everywhere;  mold and mildew weaken fabrics as well as giving them bad odors that are sometimes impossible to get rid of.  A little extra care in preparing your items for storage and prevent a lot of this kind of damage.

Keep an eye on the weather, especially dropping temperatures.   You want to make sure you have winterized all your camping gear and recreational vehicles BEFORE you get regular freezing days and nights.  As long as the temp remains above 32F water and water-based products won't freeze but below 32F they will begin to freeze.  RVs will usually withstand a little freezing overnight temperatures but when it drops below 24F or so at night and never gets above freezing during the day they will be very likely to experience frozen water systems if they have not been properly protected.  Water expands when it freezes with enough force to rupture even sturdy steel pipes.  The plastic pipes and water tanks on RVs are even more susceptible to freeze damage if not protected.

Any vehicle or piece of equipment that includes water needs to be freeze protected.  Either completely drain any water based systems or replace the water with potable RV antifreeze.  Engine cooling systems should be protected with automotive antifreeze of the proper concentration, usually 50-50.

RVs and OHVs that will be stored for next season need to be cleaned and serviced.  If they have water cooled engines, make sure the coolant contains enough antifreeze to protect them against freezing.  Today's gasoline with ethanol deteriorates quickly so it is best to drain fuel and purge fuel from fuel systems.  Turning off the fuel at the tank and letting the engine run until it runs out of fuel usually does the job.  Then drain the tank.   Additives such as Stabil can extend the usable life of gasoline but draining the tank is more reliable.

Camping equipment needs to be clean and dry when put in storage for the winter.  Damp and/or dirty items are subject to rot, mold, mildew, and insect damage.  Perishable provisions should be removed and each one stored appropriately.  Gasoline fueled appliances liked stoves and lanterns need proper fuel treatment.  Camping and OHV clothing along with tents and bedding should be cleaned and stored where it will be safe from pests (insects and rodents mostly).  Adding moth balls or used dryer cloths to the storage container will help deter pests.   Using dryer cloths avoid having the unpleasant smell of moth balls on your clothing or linens.

Camping tools, such as axes, hatchets, shovels, etc. should be properly cleaned, repaired, and oiled before storage.  Metal parts that are not protected are likely to rust.  Wooden handles benefit from being wiped down with linseed oil to prevent them from getting over dried out while in storage.  Canopies and camp furniture should be clean and dry before being put into storage.  Any moving parts should be lightly lubricated.

The off season is usually a good time to perform preventative maintenance and/or upgrades to your equipment.  Doing so during this time lets you take advantage of  "down time" to work on stuff without impacting normal usage and gives you something related to your hobbies to do during the off season.  You might also be able to take advantage of reduced off-season prices.  Or, if you snagged some bargains during year-end clearance sales, now is a good time to get them assembled and or installed.  You might have to wait until next season to try them out, but you will have them ready to go when weather does permit taking out your rig.  Go over your "to do" list for your camping stuff.  Winter is a really good time to make repairs or improvements without impacting your camping schedule.  It is also a fun way to stay involved with your hobbies when heading outside isn't desirable or practical.

You can also use the off season to review and catalog the last season's activities and do research and make plans for next year.   The sooner you document your activities, the better chance you will capture accurate memories of them.  Converting camping log books into more detailed histories for example.  You might be able to expand on some of your camping notes before the memories fade.   Or copying hand written logs into electronic format for easy long-term storage and retrieval. Researching new equipment and new destinations can be a fun way to use the time you normally spend participating in your chosen activities the rest of the year.  Finding things to add interest, fun, or convenience to your camping experience is always a productive use of time.  Identifying new places to go and explore expands your options along with bolstering your knowledge of your environment.  I found it was a lot of fun to learn more of the history of the mining camps and communities where we went dirt biking in the Mojave Desert.   We even got to visit the crash site of one of the X-1 test planes.

Make good use of your off time!

 

Keeping your RV or Camper Warm

Most RVs and campers are equipped with propane furnaces that usually do a pretty good job of keeping them warm enough on cool nights.  Just set the thermostat and as long as you don't run out of propane or run your batteries down you will stay warm.  Interestingly enough, when your batteries get low the furnace fan may keep running, blowing cold air.  However, even with a good furnace, you may need extra help on really cold nights.   Often Canadian motorhomes come from the factory ready for winter use, but most made in the United States do not.  Usually you can make modifications to make them more suitable for cold weather camping if you need it but it can be expensive.  You may need extra insulation along with freeze-proofing your water systems and increasing heat through a larger or additional heating unit.

Boats have different heating and cooling problems than RVs.  Please see my post on Keeping Your Boat Cabin a Comfortable Temperature for more information on boats.  Basically, you will only find heating and cooling systems on larger yachts and not on the daysailers typically used by weekend sailors.  Fortunately, we don't often use our boats in freezing weather.

You might take advantage of all the warmth from sunlight you can get:  park so the side with the most or largest windows is facing the sun most of the day.  Solar heating won't keep your RV warm by itself but it can help keep it warmer.

One of the first things to do is to make sure you aren't throwing away heat through open windows or vents.  Make sure you roof vent(s) are closed.  It is easy to forget to close the one in the bathroom.  Avoid opening exterior doors as much as possible.  Also be sure to close curtains and drapes.  Adding reflective foam insulation to windows can help keep you warmer in winter and cooler in summer.  Some units may benefit from additional insulation.  For example, it was easy for me to add a Styrofoam insulation panel to the roof of a van camper.  All that was there before adding the insulation was a cardboard-like headliner.  The foam helped keep it warmer in winter and cooler in summer.  It usually isn't practical to add insulation to the walls, ceiling, or floor or most RVs and campers, unless you are already opening them up for other repairs or modifications.  If you REALLY need extra insulation you might be able to install foam panels on the inside of the walls and put new paneling over it.  You will loose a little space inside your unit but it might be worth it.  The easiest way to do this is with Styrofoam insulation panels.  Another alternative would be to essentially build an extra wall all the way around the inside of your unit to give you room to install residential-style fiberglass insulation.  Doing it with 2x2 studs will probably double the thickness of most RV walls and insulation since most RVs have 2x2 studs in the original walls.  To get full R-13 insulation like you have at home you might need to build new wall inside using 2x4 studs.  Doing  that will use up at least 5-6"of interior space for each wall, depending on what kind of wall board you use.  One issue you will have to deal with in either case is the moldings around doors and windows, which may take some creative construction to achieve acceptable results.   And don't forget the ceiling!  Since heat rises, you want to make sure you aren't losing heat unnecessarily through the roof!  Adding insulation to the floor will likely very intrusive and expensive.  Sometimes you can reduce heat loss through floors by putting a skirt to block wind from blowing underneath the vehicle while it is parked.  For long term usage, like using your motorhome or trailer as a guest house at home, you can use plywood or other rigid panels cut to fit between the bottom of the wall and the ground.  If you want skirting during your outings, flexible panels made of vinyl or canvas will do the job.  You usually need to install snaps along the bottom edge of your unit to secure flexible panels.  Heavy duty Velcro might be an option if you don't want to drill holes in the walls of your RV.

Take advantage of every available resource to reduce heat loss.  Close curtains and drapes.  Close vents.  If there is a breeze coming under a door, roll up a towel and lay it against the crack where the breeze is coming in.  You might be losing heat under doors even if you don't feel any breeze coming in.  If you can see daylight under the door, it probably needs to be blocked to reduce heat loss.  Since heat rises, be sure to check for gaps at the top of exterior doors too.  You may be able to add weather stripping to block gaps.

In most cases adding an auxiliary heater of some kind is the easiest and least expensive way of warming up a cold RV or camper.  If you have 120 volt electrical power from a generator or shore line an electrical heater is really easy to install and use and is generally a little safer than propane heaters that consume oxygen.  Even indoor rated catalytic propane heaters that do not produce significant amounts of toxic fumes will consume oxygen to you always have to provide adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation!  You will want to take precautions with all heaters to ensure they are not too near to any combustible surface, such as curtains, drapes, upholstery, and bedding.  Also be careful using them to dry wet shoes and clothing, making sure items aren't too close.  Electric fireplaces are an attractive way to add heating capacity along with a nice cabin-like ambiance.  The ones I've used fit nicely under the dinette table.

Sometimes you might simply add an extra sweater or sweatshirt or even a jacket or dress in thermal underwear to keep YOU warmer without having to heat the entire living space of your RV or camper.  At night an extra blanket or quilt or a warmer sleeping bag might all that is needed.  Some folks like to wear warmer "bunny" pajamas and socks but many people feel claustrophobic with too much clothing in bed.  You will usually sleep best and most comfortably when dressed the way you usually sleep at home.  You can add warm rocks or something like warmed potatoes or a hot water bottle to your bedding to help ward off cold feet, just make sure they aren't hot enough to scorch the bedding or hurt your feet.

If you do a lot of cold weather camping and your existing furnace isn't sufficient to keep you comfortable you may be able to add a second furnace or upgrade the existing one.  Upgrading the existing one is usually easier and less expensive as it can take advantage of the original electrical and gas connections, fit in the old cabinet, and use the existing ducting.  Many times newer, more efficient furnaces with greater heating capacity will fit in the space of older units but sometimes you may have to modify cabinets around them to make more room.  Adding a second furnace usually requires additional wiring and gas plumbing plus venting to the outside as well as finding someplace to mount it.  Some furnaces rely on convection to circulate the heat but others may require the installation of ducting so keep that in mind when choosing and installing your new furnace.  Convection furnaces are often used in small units like slide-in campers; ducted furnaces are common in larger trailerl and motorhomes.

You might be able to improve the energy efficiency of your rig to make it easier to heat and to keep it warm.  Try to eliminate any drafts around plumbing, wiring and doors.  Minimize opening of doors.  Keep curtain, shades, and drapes closed and add reflective foam panels to cover your windows.  If you ever have access to the inside of walls, floors, and ceilings (such as during repairs or renovations) consider increasing the insulation.  The gains from adding insulation probably don't warrant opening things up just to install it so take advantage of any time you do have things apart.

Monitor your propane usage closely.  During cold weather you will use more gas for heating, cooking, and hot water.  The last thing you want to do in cold weather is run out of heating fuel!  For extended stays bring along an extra portable tank or two of propane and invest in an Extend-A-Stay system to attach them to the propane system on your RV.  These work well for an auxillary gas supply for RV appliances but since RV generators run on liquid propane they won't work when the liquid in the RV tank drops below the pickup point.  You might be able to hedge your bet for extended stays by connecting the auxillary tank long before the level in the permanent tank drops below the generator pickup. 

If you have shore power or a big battery bank and an inverter you might use an electric blanket to keep you warm at night.  There are even 12 volt electric blankets if you have enough battery reserve for it.  If you rely on a generator or solar power for your electricity you still might use an electric blanket to pre-warm you bed so it is more comfortable when you get in it and it will stay warmer longer.  You can then conserve energy by turning it off.  You might need to turn it back on a time or two during colder nights.  That might be a problem if you don't have enough battery reserve and rely on your generator and are camping where running it at night might disturb other nearby campers.

One rather extreme solution, is to purchase a different unit, one that was built for cold weather use.  Many Canadian models come from the factory already suitable for cold weather operation, including freeze protection for the plumbing and sufficient furnace capacity.  Some units manufactured in the United States can be purchased with winterization packages but most standard units will not be suitable for winter camping without additional modifications.  To convert an existing RV for cold weather operation you will need to freeze protect the fresh water and waste water systems as well as improving insulation and upgrading the heating system.

Heat it up!

End of Season Tasks for Campers, RVers, and Boaters

We are almost into September.  Soon the kids will be back in school and it soon will be time to start winterizing our summer toys.  There might be time for one last hoorah in the motorhome, out on the boat, or riding off road toys, but before long it will be time to tuck them away until next season.  All of our summer recreational equipment should be properly prepared for winter storage.  Failure to do so may result in serious damage over the winter or, at the very least, make getting it ready to use again next season more difficult.  For more information on winterizing, check out this post.

Motorhomes and campers  and boats need to have their water systems winterized before the onset of freezing weather.  That means draining all the holding tanks and either blowing all the water out of the system or filling the plumbing with RV antifreeze to keep the pipes from freezing -- if you live where you get freezing weather.  Folks who live in the sunbelt don't have to worry about freeze protection.  Check out this post  or more detailed motorhome winterization .

Anything with a gasoline engine will need to have the fuel system treated to prevent deteriorating fuel from clogging up the works.  For small engines, like motorcycles and outboard motors, you can turn off the fuel and run all the gas out of the system to reduce the problems old fuel causes in carburetors and injection systems.  Then treat the remaining fuel in the tank with a fuel stabilizer or drain the tanks.  For motorhomes and boats with inboard motors add the fuel treatment, then run the engines for 10 or 15 minutes so the treated fuel fills the system.

 How you deal with your boat depends on whether you plan to leave it in the water or haul it out for the winter.   Trailerable boats and other smaller boats are usually hauled out and either tarped or shrink-wrapped to protect the against winter weather.  Of course water systems on boats require the same winterizaton in freezing climates as campers.  For more detailed suggestions for winterizing your boat, click here.

Camping equipment should be inspected and cleaned and repaired as necessary before putting it into storage.  Fabric items such as sleeping bags, blankets, and tents, are particularly susceptible to damage from mold and mildew if they get put away damp.  You will also want to protect them against pests such as moths using moth balls or dryer cloths.  Sleeping bags should NOT be tightly rolled for long term storage as it will crush the filling and destroy the lift that provides the warmth and comfort.  Kitchen items, such as pots and pans, dishes, and utensils should be clean and dry before storage and should be packed to protect them against breakage or other impact damage.  Fuel should be drained from stoves and lanterns.  Perishable provisions should be removed and all remaining cooking stuff should be stored in tightly closed plastic tubs.  

Camping clothing should be laundered and properly stored in closets or in moisture-proof plastic bins.  Before putting it away inspect each item for any damage that needs to be repaired or might relegate the item to be recycled.  Here again items need to be protected against moths using moth balls or dryer cloths.

There is at least one other task on the end of season list.  This last one is a little more fun.  It is checking out the End of Season Sales where ever you like to shop for camping supplies.  Retailers often offer great savings on seasonal summer merchandise to make room for winter items.  Sometimes end of season sales will start as early as July or August.  Some retailers take large price cuts right away to quickly move inventory.  Others may start out with smaller discounts, say 10%, and gradually increase them over time.  We will each have our own idea of how much of a discount will motivate us to buy something and that discount will probably vary depending on the total cost of an item and how much we may want or need it.  Personally I usually take a close look at anything with a discount of 50% or more to see if I want to expand my back up resources to try something new.  Lesser discounts may be worth grabbing on items you need or want, especially if they are popular and will sell out quickly.

Of course, this isn't the end of the season for everyone!  Some people continue to enjoy their motorhomes and boats and even camping year round, although it typically requires some special preparation to accommodate more harsh weather.   Some off roaders enjoy the challenge of riding in the snow and, or course, snowmobilers are anxious for winter to come!  If you are one of those folks, instead of putting everything away until next spring you will want to make the necessary preparations to protect your resources against winter weather and make it ready for winter use.

Winter is sometimes a chance to take a break and review last year's fun activities.   Now is a good time to complete documenting your summer trips, review your want lists, and begin making plans for next year.  It is often an excellent time or make needed repairs, perform annual maintenance, or make updates or additions to your equipment.

There doesn't have to be anything off about the off season!

Winterizing Your Boat

How do you winterize your boat?  A lot depends on what kind of boat you have, how large it is, and whether you leave it in the water or not.  Trailerable boats can be easily hauled out and stored on shore, often at the owner's home or in a storage yard so they are easily accessible for cleaning, maintenance, winterization, repairs, and upgrades.  It also keeps them safe from theft or damage at the marina.

Many aspects of winterizing a boat are similar to winterizing and RV.  First of all, drain or freeze-proof all water systems (fresh water tanks, lines, and fixtures, waste water lines and tanks, and engine cooling systems).  Remove all perishable foods, sundries, and supplies.  Inspect all hatches and thru-hull fittings to ensure they won't leak.  

If you have a trailerable boat, or have your boat hauled out for the winter, you may want to shrink wrap it to protect it from the elements over the winter.  Doing it yourself can be a lot of work but there are companies that perform this service and are well worth it if it is within your budget.  Covering  your boat with a tarp will provide some level of protection, but it won't be as secure as shrink wrap and wind may wear holes in the tarp and/or damage the finish on the boat where it contacts hard surface.  Custom fit boat covers provide a safer, more secure way of covering your boat but they can take time and can be quite expensive.   We use a tarp over a PVC pipe frame to protect our sailboat.  The tarp protects it from the weather; the pipe frame protects the boat from the tarp and allows access for off season work.  When all assembled it looks like the boat is in a covered wagon!

While you have your boat out of the water is a good time to clean and inspect it.   Hulls often collect algae, mollusks, and other unwanted growths that can inhibit performance and, quite frankly, look like crap!  It would be a very good idea to thoroughly clean your boat, top and bottom, inside and out, before you put it into storage.  Carefully inspect the deck and hull to determine if they need painting or other maintenance before you put the boat back into service next year.

If you leave your boat in the water you will want to ensure it is securely tied up so winter storms don't toss it around and cause damage.  You will want to winterize all plumbing systems and remove perishable provisions and things that might be damaged by freezing if you are where it freezes.  You may want to cover your boat with a boat cover or tarp for extra protection.  If you do, make sure it fits well and is securely fastened.  You should plan on inspecting your boat regularly so you can take care of any problems that come up such as loose docking lines or accumulation of excess water in pools on covers or tarps.  Depending on how secure the marina is, you may also need to check for possible theft or vandalism while your boat was unattended.  Thieves and vandals are usually quick to notice and take advantage when any property is left alone for longer than normal periods of time.

You will want to remove all perishable provisions and anything that might be subject to freezing.  You may also want to inspect galley items to ensure they are clean before putting your boat into storage lest they attract pest during the winter.  Clean tables, counters, and cushions and wash any bedding, linens and clothing you plan to leave in the boat before putting it into storage.  Add used dryer cloths or moth balls to  drawers and closets help keep bugs at bay.  Used dryer cloths can be left between the sheets or in sleeping bags to help keep the beds fresh and clean.

Install some kind of device to reduce humidity when you put your boat into storage.   If your boat is stored where you have access to 120 volt power there are electric de-humidifiers that will dry the air.  For other situations you can get moisture control canisters that use chemicals to draw the moisture out of the air.  I use them in my motorhome, motorcycle trailer, and my boat.  I usually purchase them at Dollar Tree so they are not terribly expensive.  They are small so they fit just about anywhere but the size does limit there capacity so you may need to swap them out several times during the winter for best results.  Reducing humidity will help prevent mildew.

While your boat is out of commission for the winter is a good time to perform any need repairs, do regular maintenance, and work on any upgrades or enhancements you have been planning.  It will be harder if you leave your boat in the water or have it shrink wrapped.  Check the hull to see if the bottom needs painting.  They often do after a season in the water.  If  you have anything you need or want to do this winter you may want to do it before you shrink wrap it if that is your plan for protecting the boat.  Otherwise you may have to wait until you unwrap it next spring to get the job done.   Making repairs as soon as possible is the best way to reduce further damage and minimize the chances of forgetting what needs to be done.  In the paragraph below I describe the framed cover we use for our sailboat which gives us access to work on the boat just about all winter along.

We have a trailerable Macgregor 25 sailboat.  Each winter we pull it out of the lake and bring it home.  This saves several months of mooring fees, avoids risking damage from being banged around the docks by winter storms or icing, and keeps the boat in our yard where we can keep an eye on it.  We built a shelter for our boat using a PVC pipe frame and a large, green farm tarp.  The PVC bends enough to form bows over the boat to hold the tarp up, preventing possible damage to the tarp and the finish on the boat and allowing us access to the deck and the cabin for inspection and maintenance.  It looks like a big green covered wagon over the boat.  We drive 3/8" rebar into the ground as anchor points for each of the PVC pipes supporting the frame.  We used 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe.  For our 25' boat we use three horizontal pipes -- one at the ridgeline and one alongside each lifeline.  We use 4-way  (cross) connectors every 2' to run bows and legs from the ground on one side up over the boat to the ground on the other side.  Then pull the tarp over and tie it down securely with bungie cords.  You might want to glue the framework together or secure each joint with cotter pins or bolts, but I just use a press fit so I can easily replace any parts that may get damaged from snow loading and can disassemble it when it is time to launch the boat.  Our original green farm tarp lasted through 5 years of rainy and snowy Oregon winters, including an unusually heavy snowstorm and strong winds in at least 2 seasons!  This type of framed cover allows us to get into the boat for regular inspections and any maintenance, repairs up upgrades we need or want to do over the winter.  You will need to monitor throughout the winter to make sure the tarp stays taught and doesn't collapse under the weight of snow or rain.  Try to dump any puddles as soon as possible to minimize the buildup of weight on the protective structure.  If it collapses on your boat it could cause expensive damage.

To minimize tear down and set up time we keep as much of the framework intact when we remove it each summer.  If  you glue it together be sure to leave enough room on each side to pull the whole boat and trailer assembly out and put it back in next season.  If you choose to glue it together and use it as a semi-permanent structure you might want to consider using larger PVC pipe.  We went with 1/2" pipe for flexibility and ease of handling as well as lower cost.  We managed to break down our framework into about 6 pieces this last time and it took us less than 2 hours from start to finish to install the cover this year.  The "covered wagon" style cover also allows us easy access to the boat for inspection, repairs, cleaning, maintenance, and upgrades over the winter while providing good protection from the elements.  I find it handy to keep a supply of PVC fittings to replace any that get damaged by wind or snow loads (or I break taking it apart!).  They should include Ts, elbows, and 4-way "cross" fittings.

We kept our original 1970 Macgregor Venture 24 sailboat after it was totaled by the insurance company when it fell off the trailer on the way to the lake last summer.  It makes a fun playhouse for the grandkids and one day, with luck, we might find a new swing keel and mast to repair it and make it seaworthy again.  We covered it with a tarp to protect it against winter weather and keep soggy leaves from staining the deck.  I used sections of the broken mast to make a ridgepole down the centerl ine so that rain mostly runs off.  Fortunately the tarp doesn't really contact any painted or gelcoat surfaces that might be damaged by chaffing, but it is already wearing through where it contacts the tops of the stanchions along the lifeline.  Next year I should probably top each stanchion with a tennis ball.

The more you protect your boat for the winter, the less work you will face before launching it again next spring and the less chance there is of unwanted visitors making nasty nests or messes in or on your boat.  Wet leaves can leave nasty stains on the deck so protecting it with some kind of cover will save you a lot of scrubbing (or repainting!).

Keep it protected!

Winter Again -- Winterize RVs, Boats, OHVS, and Camping Equipment

Yep, it’s winter again. For most of us, especially in the northern latitudes, it pretty much means the end of our RV, OHV, camping, and boating season. Time to winterize the vehicles, clean and stow the camping gear, and break out the hot drinks and warm sweaters. Other posts on this blog have given detailed suggestions for winterization of RVs, campers, and boats, so we won’t go into details again here. Just consider this a reminder to review the previous winterization posts and take action. Failure to properly winterize your equipment can have far reaching and often expensive consequences. One of the most obvious issues is problems with freezing temperatures that have a devastating effect on water systems. Water expands when it freezes and it does so with surprising force. Freezing in little cracks in concrete sidewalks and driveways can completely destroy them. Freezing water tanks, pipes, and fixtures often cause damage in addition to the destruction of the items themselves so you want to be sure your water systems are protected if you expect freezing weather. Small engines, like those on motorcycles, personal water craft, and home maintenance equipment like lawn mowers are susceptible to fuel problems if fuel is left in the system for an extended period while the machine is not in use. Modern ethanol gasoline is does particularly nasty things to carburetors. It is a good idea to drain the all the fuel from the fuel tank, then run the motor until it stops to empty the carburetor. If you chose to leave fuel in the tank, be sure to add a fuel stabilizer to prevent it from going bad over the winter. And don’t forget other fuel-powered items such as lanterns and camping stoves.

When storing RVs, be sure to clean them thoroughly and remove any perishable foodstuffs. It is surprising how pests can find their way into even sealed plastic containers. We once had to throw out cases of MRIs from our fire department wildfire stash because rodents had chewed through the mylar packaging. Their ability to chew through it wasn’t surprising but how they could tell there was food sealed inside kind of was. I guess even the sealed mylar containers allow enough odor to escape to attract them. Heavier plastic containers similar to Tupperware, might protect things better, but, to be on the safe side, remove ANY THING that might attract pests. 

Cooler winter weather often contributes to condensation inside stored vehicles and vessels.   It is a good idea to provide some kind of moisture control.  If you have access to 120 volt power where your unit is stored you might use an electric de-humidifier.  The ones I've seen sell for about $50 to $80. Lacking power you can use chemical moisture eliminators.  I get mine at Dollar Tree.  They are small and I usually have to swap them out a few time each winter, but they do absorb moisture from the air.  You can tell when they need to be replaced because all the white granuals will have dissolved and the bottom of the container will be filled with clear water.  Or buy larger sized bags at your home center or online.  For example, amazon.com offers a 4-pack Boat Dehumidifier bag for $17.99.

 Camping equipment other than items that may contain water (canteens, water heaters, thermoses, etc.) are often forgotten, but proper storage is essential to prevent damage and make sure they are safe and ready to use next season. Sleeping bags should NOT be tightly rolled. If you have a place to do so, hang them so they can stay dry, air out, and the loft can expand. If you can’t hang them, put them in a stuff bag but don’t pull the cords too tight. As a last resort, unroll them and hang them for a few hours to let any residual moisture evaporate, then gently fold them for storage.  Leaving them tightly rolled like you do them for packing is a sure way to destroy the loft and make them unusable the next time you get them out after lengthy storage.  Make sure other fabric items, such as back packs, ground clothes, tarps, and tents, are dry before storage. Storing things wet is an open invitation to mold and mildew which, at the very least, makes them unpleasant to use next season and can often cause permanent aesthetic and even structural damage.

Batteries need special attention also. Vehicle batteries may need to be removed and placed where they will be protected from freezing. Using a ”trickle” charger to maintain the charge will significantly lower the freezing point if you want to leave them in the vehicle. It is best to remove batteries from dry cell appliances, like lanterns and flashlights. Electronic equipment should be stored safely in a warm, dry place with a fairly stable temperature. Frequent swings between hot and cold can cause condensation to build up internally and damage them, especially if they are in a humid environment. Interestingly enough, some dry cell batteries may benefit from being stored in a refrigerator.  If you don't want to remove dry cell batteries, consider flipping one around backwards to interrupt the circuit so the batteries won't get drained if the switch gets accidentally turned on.

Camping clothing should be cleaned and stored safely. If you choose to leave it hanging in an RV closet or folded in a drawer in your boat or camper, be sure to add some moth balls or used dryer cloths to discourage insects. I like using used dryer clothes. It is a nice way to recycle stuff that would otherwise just go into the trash and get extra use of out of otherwise disposable items and it leaves a pleasant scent, unlike the potent, nasty smell of moth balls.

Periodic inspections throughout the winter are a good idea. Take a few minutes to look over your stored RV, OHV, or boat every week or so to make sure everything is all right. If wind or weather has begun to damage things or there is evidence of pest intrusion, the sooner you discover it and can mitigate the problem, the less damage there will be. A broken limb that makes a hole in the roof of your camper isn’t TOO big a problem if you can find it and repair the hole before it allows a lot more weather to get in and create more significant damage. Getting rid of pests quickly can mean the difference between an unpleasant and inconvenient infestation and total loss of some items or even and entire RV!

 Winter is a good time to review and reflect on last season’s activities. Snuggle up in front of the fireplace in your favorite blanket with a hot beverage in your hand and read some of your camping diary. Or re-read your favorite RV or camping magazines and begin planning fun things to do in the upcoming season. Youtube has an endless supply of interesting and often useful and informative videos on just about any subject that may interest you. I have found the videos on camping and survival to be the most appealing and helpful to me. Brush up on your fire starting skills. Even if you have a nice gas log lighter to get your fireplace going, practice building your fire the right way, using appropriate tinder, kindling and perhaps flint and steel or some other “survival” method of starting a fire.  

While thinking about winterizing your recreational equipment you might want to think about winterizing your home too.  Sprinkler systems should be shut off and drained.  If you are on a well you might need to activate a heater or at least a 100 watt incandescent light bulb in your pump house to prevent exposed pipes from freezing.  You may have to shop around to find the 100 watt bulb as they seem to have been discontinued as a knee-jerk reaction to claims of global warming.  Drain and store garden hoses,  And don't forget to stock up firewood for your fireplace or wood stove.  Our current residence lacks both a fireplace and a stove but we still enjoy a fire in our R2D2 fire pit in our picnic area.  R2D2 is an old washing machine tub.

Stay warm, stay healthy, be safe, and get ready for another outstanding outdoor season!

Winter Camping At Home -- Say What?

In most of the colder parts of the country, winter means storing our RVs and camping gear and holing up in front of  a cozy fireplace until the warm weather returns.  Those in the sunbelt can continue to enjoy outdoor pursuits.  When we lived in southern California even New Years Day was an opportunity for RVing and dirt biking in the Mojave Desert.  Not likely that is going to happen here in Utah!  So why the heck would anyone what to do any winter camping at home?

One big advantage to winter camping at home is you don't have far to go to recover if anything goes wrong.  Just as we've often suggested driveway or backyard "outings" as a way to develop your skills and get used to your equipment, you can use them for winter preparations as well.  If you should run into trouble, like say running out of propane, you can just go back inside to keep warm whereas, if you had a problem in a remote location you might not have any convenient way of handling the issue(s) and may experience a considerable amount of discomfort  -- or even get sick or die -- before you could recover.  Winter camping at home is a good way to make sure you are prepared before you try any remote winter camping.

If you have an RV you store at home during the winter you might consider spending a night or two in it just for fun, to maintain your familiarity with systems and supplies, and to keep your equipment in peak operating condition.  We did that in our truck camper when the onset of winter sneaked up on us before we could take it out for a shakedown cruise.  If you're in freezing weather you won't want to use any of the water or sewer systems, but you can still test out the furnace and determine if the bedding is adequate for cold nights.  And you could cook and eat in the RV.  Just be sure to take all the dishes back into the house to wash them.  Using your RV systems periodically while in storage is actually good for them.  Run the generator for an hour so two.  Disuse is one of the hardest things on equipment.

Our motorhome and camper have both served as extra guest rooms when we've had family visiting at Christmas on a number of occasions.  We had to educate our guests that there was no water and to not use the toilet, but otherwise they were quite warm and comfortable and enjoyed more privacy than they might have had crammed inside the house with other guests.  The grandkids especially liked staying in an RV.  If you live in the sunbelt where winterization isn't necessary, using the RV is even more convenient since they can use the water based systems.  You may be able to use the water based systems if your RVs are properly prepared for it and you exercise proper procedures.  You may need holding tank heaters to keep fresh and waste water tanks and lines from freezing.

Winter opportunities for tent campers are more limited but still possible.  You may have to set up your tent in the snow, but even that can be surprisingly comfortable if you are prepared for it.  If that doesn't appeal to you and your family you might resort to setting up your tent in the garage or an outbuilding.  I've noticed that the temperature inside my garage is typically in the mid 40s even when the outside temperature is in the teens.  I've read that even just having a roof over your head can raise the temperature 20°F, which is often enough to prevent freezing of RV water lines etc.  A barn, shed, or greenhouse could also provide a temperate location for setting up a winter tent.  One of our kids and her family set up a tent in our barn during a Christmas visit in Utah a few years ago.

I've even seen folks set up dome tents in their family rooms and living rooms for the kids for a fun night or two and there is no reason that couldn't be done by kids of ALL ages.  You'll need a self standing tent, not one that needs stakes and guy ropes.  If don't have a self-standing tent you might get by setting up a 2x4 frame around your tent to fasten loops and guy lines to since you can't drive stakes into your floor.

Practicing your winter camping skills could turn out be more than just a fun diversion.  If you should experience a long term power outage during the winter, being able to  move into your RV or set up your tent in your living room might be your best way to survive.  The threat of long term power outages grows stronger every day.  Not only are we now facing possible outages from a strong EMP from solar activity, the terrorist organization ISIS is reportedly actively planning ways to disable the US power grid.  Many people aren't aware of just how vulnerable the power grid is nor how long it would take to replace damaged transformers and restore power.  It would likely be years!  Recent estimates I've read say that disabling as few as 9 key substations would disable the entire US power grid for a year and a half.

Practicing your campfire skills can also be fun in winter.   Gathering around a blazing fire is a good way to ward off the chill of winter activities.  Just having a campfire in your snowy backyard can be fun.  Campfires may also become critical for cooking and hygiene during an extended emergency so it is good practice to try it out before you need it in an emergency.

Be cool and keep warm!

Involuntary Downsizing

We recently experienced an accident that resulted in our 1986 Holiday Rambler being declared a total loss by the insurance company.  I spent a couple of months searching  the Internet for a replacement and couldn't find a single similar unit for sale anywhere in the U.S.  I found two in Australia, both had been converted to Australian Design Rules and completely renovated, with prices about 4 times what I paid for my unit several years ago.  While that speaks highly of the quality of the original unit, it doesn't lend itself to replacing a wrecked motorhome in Utah.  Once we knew it was going to be totaled we began looking for an alternative.  We quickly realized that the 1986 HR we'd had for about 10 years was an incredible find when we bought it and that we weren't going to be able to replace it with anything even close.  Available units of a similar size and age but a different brand had originally sold for about 1/4 the cost of the Holiday Rambler and lacked its features and quality.  So we reevaluated our needs and adjusted our expectations.

We looked at literally hundreds of online listings, inspected at least a dozen local units for sale by owner, and visited about a half dozen dealers looking for something that would meet our needs -- and satisfy at least some our our wants -- and staying within a reasonable budget.  I found that lacking an exact replacement, getting anything close in terms of size, features, and quality, would cost 2 -10 times the insurance payout!  A careful evaluation of our current needs showed we really didn't need such a big unit and that we'd be able to go more places and do more things in a smaller one.

We ended up downsizing from a 40' diesel powered luxury Holiday Rambler motorhome to a mid-sized 27' gasoline powered Class A.  It is a 1984 Southwind Eagle and, according to the dealer, was purchased from a legendary "little old lady" (which was confirmed by the current registration certificate found in the vehicle).   Given the condition of the unit, the story is believable.  It rolled over 42,000 miles on it as I drove it off the lot.  The appliances (stove, refrigerator) are like new.  The water heater was replaced just a few years ago and is also like new.  It has all brand new carpet.  Obviously it lacks the spaciousness and many of the luxury features our Holiday Rambler had, but it will be a very fun rig to use.  My initial intention was to purchase from a private party to get the best price but this little Eagle was advertised by a small local dealer, and at a surprisingly good price -- about 1/3 the average retail shown in the Nada Guide.  Moreover the dealer was exceptionally good to work with.  It is a small, family run lot in American Fork, Utah:  RVs of America.  It has been my experience that large dealers with a large sales force have a lot of overhead and there is usually lot of competition between the salesmen, often resulting in higher pressure selling than I like.  We found the folks at RVs of America (it is owned and operated by two brothers)  to be genuinely interested in  helping us find the right motorhome for our needs rather than selling us what they wanted to move.  By selecting a unit that was basically kind of under priced (buying in the November-December time frame might have had something to do with it) we had budget left over to add some of the premium accessories we'd come to enjoy in the big motorhome.

By carefully researching the available options we were able to find a unit that had at least some of the luxury features we'd become accustomed to in our Holiday Rambler, specifically, hydraulic levelers and an electric step.   I doubt if we'll miss the washer and dryer in the big Holiday Rambler which was so seldom used that the rollers in the dryer were flattened from sitting so long when I did want to use it.  One of the conscious tradeoffs we made was whether to buy a newer unit with fewer amenities or an older one that was better equipped.  Given our current station in life (semi-retired) we opted for more amenities.  When we were younger I probably would have favored newer units with higher potential resale or trade in value, but at this point I'm not planning to make many more trades -- and I've come to like my creature comforts.

Downsizing of this magnitude necessitates a reappraisal of what supplies and other items are really necessary.  With cavernous basement storage on the Holiday Rambler, we had room for lots of niceties that don't fit in the smaller motorhome.  I've even had to sort through and re-think my on board tool kit and buy a smaller tool box that would fit one of the compartments.  Fitting what you really need into less than 2/3 the space means reducing things by at least 1/3.  That means starting with the idea of setting aside one out of three kitchen items, one out of three extra items of clothing, one out of three cleaning supplies, and at the very least, one out of three gadgets.   The reduced basement storage on top of the significant reduction in overall length adds up to a lot more than a 1/3 reduction in cargo capacity.  Here is where selecting and stocking items with multiple uses will REALLY come in handy.  For example, bringing along a 3-in-1 shampoo/conditioner/body wash instead of separate solutions will save space in the limited bathroom medicine cabinet.  While the 3-in-1 may not yield quite the same results as more expensive individual products, it is adequate for occasional use for a few days in camp.  It also saves water since you only have to rinse your hair once.  In removing all our stuff from the "old" motorhome, I found that I had on board cleaning supplies that I only use during winterization or spring cleaning.  It was convenient to have them on board when there was plenty of room.  However, those now become candidates to be left on the shelf in the garage since they aren't normally needed in camp.  Closets revealed even more stuff that didn't really need to be there.  Over the years we had accumulated clothing for multiple seasons, often carrying around parkas and a whole box of winter gloves when it was 90°+ outside.  Things like that can be easily added as needed instead of occupying a permanent spot in limited real estate.  Gadgets are often a source of a lot of fun for RVers and other campers, but when space is at a premium, it is worthwhile to only bring along what you actually use.  I am certain there were a lot of nice gadgets I had squirreled away in the big motorhome that I seldom used that will not migrate to the "new" smaller unit.  The late RV great Gaylord Maxwell described his downsizing from a 40' monster Class A to more modest 30' Class C.  His rule for the big motorhome was "If you think you might need it, bring it along."  The smaller rig requires a different mind set.  The new rule is "If you're not sure you're going to use, leave it home."  Those two attitudes pretty much sum up our situation as we migrate from a 40' to a 27'.  However, we keep finding things we "need" and have to make room for.  It is a never ending battle.

There were a lot of difficult decisions to be made as we tried to find space for all the "stuff" we'd gotten used to packing around.  It is amazing how creative you can become when you have to.  The more than ample cabinets in the big Holiday Rambler allowed us many options for dinnerware.  Realizing we no longer had to regularly accommodate a family of 8 let us significantly reduce the number of table settings and we decided we really didn't need Melmac, speckleware, AND stainless steel plates, but we still managed to find a place under couch to squirrel away some cafeteria trays in case we join a potluck dinner somewhere.  Overall it was amazing to discover just how much "stuff" we'd packed away in our old, bigger rig.   Needless to say, it was a bit of a challenge.

Unfortunately, we took delivery just after winter arrived with sub-freezing temperatures and had to have the dealer winterize the rig even before we brought it home so we haven't been able to take it out yet.  It is tucked away in our covered RV storage where we slowly take care of a few enhancements we wanted to make and go through all the stuff we took out of the "beast" and figure out what will fit and where in the smaller rig.

We are expecting our "new" and smaller rig will be less expensive to drive and will definitely be more maneuverable and will fit in Forest Service campgrounds that were off limits to the big, luxury motorhome.  Hopefully that means more chances to go camping and more choices of where we can go.

August update:   we took the Eagle on a 2400 mile trip this summer and pretty much loved it.  There were few if any of the features of the bigger motorhome that we really missed and the 27 footer was a lot easier and less stressful to drive.  But we're still looking for places to put more "critical" things in the smaller unit.

2017 update.  Came across a deal that was too good to pass up:   a 1999 Holiday Rambler Vacationer with (as it said on the windshield) "low miles and huge slide".  Our previous experience with Holiday Rambler made us predisposed to the brand.  The low miles and the slideout, together with nice features like a queen island bed and an incredible trade-in allowance for our Southwind made this too good an opportunity to pass up.  It is a 36 footer so we got back a lot of the size and luxury features we had on our previous Holiday Rambler.  It is good to keep your eyes open where ever  you go.  We weren't really in the market for another motorhome.  In fact, I had gone to this particular lot to look at a used Jeep for my wife.  The Holiday Rambler caught my eye and the deal they offered me REALLY caught my attention.  We ended  up living quite comfortably in the Vacationer for about 6 months while we were looking for a new home in Oregon after selling our house in Utah.

When life hands you lemons, make lemonade!

End of Season

Is there EVER an end to the camping season?  Well, yes and no.  It is true that summer is the most popular season for camping, but you can camp in spring, fall, and even winter, when base camps support winter sports such as cross country skiing, snowmobiling, hunting, and ice fishing.

It is the middle of September and the "normal" camping season is winding down.  With the kids back in school, you've probably already done your "last harrah" family outing before summer ended -- or just maybe you still have time for one more!  It is likely that end of season sales on camping equipment already started back in July or August, but there might still be some bargains to be found.  It won't  hurt to check around at your favorite retailers.  You might find exceptionally good deals on anything that might still be left since they need to move it out quickly to make room for winter stock.  Always look for seasonal sales and "manger specials" at retail stores to get the best deals.  You may also see camping stuff showing up in garage sales and online as people wrap up their current seasons and dispose of unwanted gear before they have to find a place to store it.

Its just about time to be thinking about winter storage.  Tent campers probably already have their stuff safely tucked away after the last trip but it might be worth pulling it out and doing a quick inventory to make sure everything is clean and in good repair and properly stored.  Leaving things dirty while in storage for long periods invites additional damage.  If tents, canopies, or sleeping bags aren't thoroughly dry when put into storage they can be ruined by the time you get them out again.  Any cooking residue left on stoves, grills, pots and pans, and utensils will attract bugs, rodents, and bacteria that will make a real mess to be dealt with next spring.  Make sure you know where everything is so you don't have to go on a major hunt for it next season.  Now is also a good time to inventory your gear and supplies and make a list of any needed repairs, replacements, or additions.  That way you can spread the cost out over the winter months when there is no urgency.

You may not need or want to put everything in storage just yet, but it is still a good time to start thinking about it and planning for it so that when the times does come, you'll be ready.  For example, if you need to winterize the fresh water system on your RV you can start looking for good prices on Marine/RV antifreeze (the pink stuff) and stock up on it even if freezing weather is still weeks or months away.  When you winterize your RV, don't forget to drain the hot water heater.  It will save a lot of antifreeze if you have a bypass system to bypass the hot water heater when filling the water lines with antifreeze.  If your RV doesn't have one, you can purchase one for about $20 and can probably install it yourself.  Given  that the 6 gallons of antifreeze can cost $30, a bypass kit pays for itself right away, saving you both time and money.  It will also save time time when you de-winterize your rig next spring.

RVs and OHVs that won't be used for several months should be winterized and properly stored.  The degree of winterization required will depend on the climate where the vehicles are stored.   Some things, like checking fluid levels and makings sure cabinets are free from spills that would attract pets should be done not matter what kind of climate you live in but full winterization to prevent freeze damage is required if you live where you get freezing overnight temperatures.  Coolant should be checked to verify it contains enough antifreeze to protect the engines in RVs, OHVs, adn tow vehicles against expected low temperatures.  Coach water systems MUST be freeze protected in cold climates.  Any provisions that may be damaged by freezing should be removed and stored in a warm place.  Holding tanks on RVs should be dumped and thoroughly flushed before storage so foul odors don't permeate the furnishings during storage.  Then add RV antifreeze to the holding tanks to protect the dump valves.  Batteries should be kept on a maintenance charger or removed and stored where they won't freeze.  If possible, store RVs and OHVs in a garage or shed so they'll be out of the winter weather.  Lacking a suitable structure, consider purchasing an RV cover.  They only cost a few hundred dollars and are likely to pay for themselves in just a single season by protecting paint, decals, curtains, and exposed upholstery.  You may see people using ordinary cheap tarps to cover their RVs.  While this does block sunlight and usually protects against precipitation, they also trap moisture and are sometimes abrasive enough to damage the finish.  RV covers are made of  soft breathable fabrics that avoid these problems and are usually designed so they fit better.  Because they are designed to fit they are usually easier to install and their built-in anchor systems keep them in place during windy weather better than attaching a tarp with ropes or bungee cords.  By the way, if you MUST use a tarp, one simple way of anchoring it without damaging the vehicle is to fill empty bleach jugs with water (or, even better, old antifreeze) and hang them from the grommets on the tarp.  Be careful if you just fill them with water if you expect or experience freezing temperatures.   In a pinch  you can lower the freeze point a few degrees by adding salt to the water.  Plain water freezes at 32° F.   Salt water, fully saturated with salt (about 23% salt by weight) freezes at  -21° F.  If the jugs freeze they may crack and then the water will all leak out and your weights will become useless.  You may come out to find your tarp blown off or blown away.  Any crumbs or spills in and around your RV should be thoroughly cleaned up to avoid attracting pests.  You might even want to place some mouse bait in strategic locations to discourage the nasty little critters from taking up residence in your mobile residence.  I prefer using bait over traps.  Products like D-con not only kill rodents, but also contain a desiccant that causes their bodies to dry out instead of decaying and creating bad odors if they die inside the walls.  You may still have to dispose of their little mummified remains that are likely to be hiding beneath the bottom drawers or other out of the way places.

You will need to protect OHVs that have liquid cooled engines with the proper antifreeze.  It is also a good idea to drain the fuel tanks and the fuel lines and carburetors before storage.  Start the engine, turn off the gas, and let it run out of fuel so there won't be old fuel turning to varnish in th e carbuertor.  If, for any reason, you choose to leave fuel in the tank, treat it with a fuel additive like Sta-bil to minimize deterioration during storage. These simple steps of prevention can avoid costly service to get your machine running again next spring.  I've found it typically costs $80-$100 to get the gunk cleaned out of the fuel system.  So much better to drain the tank and run all the fuel out of the carburetor before you put your OHV into storage.  A light coat of oil on drive chains and other ferrous metal parts will prevent rust.

Fuel systems on RVs and OHVs that will not be used for several months should be drained or treated with a fuel additive such as Sta-bil.  You can usually drain the fuel tanks on OHVs pretty easily, then run the engine until all the fuel remaining in the lines and carburetor is used up.  Draining the large fuel tanks on other motor vehicles usually isn't practical.  Add enough Sta-bil for the tank capacity and top off the tank before storage.  A full tank will collect less moisture and condensation than an empty one, reducing the chance of water in the fuel line.

Propane powered camping stoves and lanterns usually only need to be cleaned before storage --  once the fuel canister has been removed.  Gasoline should be drained or treated with Sta-bil just like an OHV or vehicle engine.  Battery powered lanterns with removable batteries should have the batteries removed.  Rechargeable lanterns should be plugged in periodically to keep the batteries charged.   A convenient trick to to plug them into a timer so they aren't always being charged.  Overcharging can sometimes damage the batteries.

Proper storage will avoid unnecessary damage during the off season and make getting ready for your first out next season a lot easier and less expensive!

Tent campers will also need to store their tents and other equipment.  Tents and sleeping bags should be clean and dry before being stored.  Sleeping bags should not be rolled tightly.  Hang them so they can air out an restore loft if you can.  If not, pack them loosely in "stuff sacks".  Try to repair any damage before you put things into storage.  Make sure your pots, pans, utensils, dinnerware, and silverware are clean.  Remove perishable food and medical items before storage and, if your stuff will be stored will be stored where it could freeze, remove any liquids that might freeze.  Clean all your tools and coat metal surfaces with a light coating of oil to prevent rust.  This is also a good time to check for damage and make a list of those that need repair or replacement.   Drain fuel from gasoline stoves and lanterns.  Remove batteries from battery powered gadgets and store the batteries indoors.  You might want to include mouse bait near where  you store your stuff to minimize the chance of rodents infesting things.

After you've got all your gear and equipment taken care of, you can turn your attention to yourself.  You'll probably be facing an extended vacation from your favorite outdoor activities, especially if you live in northern climates with four real seasons.  Some people have enough winter activities that they don't miss camping, but many people will be getting a serious case of cabin fever long before Spring arrives and you can once again enjoy  your outings.  There are a number of fun and productive things you can do during the off season.  I find it is a good time to inventory, repair, clean, and detail my RV, camping and OHV equipment.  It may a good time for installing upgrades to your equipment.  You can also organize your photos and notes from last season's outings and begin making plans for next year.  Plan a regular exercise program to help stave off holiday weight gain and stay in shape so you'll be ready when Spring finally arrives.

And don't forget the end of season sales!  Even though some may have started months ago you may still find good buys on  closeouts of seasonal merchandise.  It is great time to try out new gadgets, replace damaged or outdated gear, or stock up on things you use often.  It might also be a goo time to look for bargains on ebay, craigslist, and at garage sales and thrift stores.

End of season is a good time to review this season's activities.   Remember, enjoy, and perhaps document notable outings.Organize and make notes on the photos you took during your trips.  Review the "to do"lists from each of your recent outings to make sure you've taken care of everything that needed attention.  Perhaps this upcoming "off season" will be a good time to take care of some postponed repairs or upgrades.  Sometimes not taking as many trips will leave a little more in the budget for desirable improvements you wanted to make to your RV, OHV, or camping equipment along with the time to do them.  And that is a fun way to stay connected to your camping needs when the weather doesn't lend itself to your usual activities.

Rest easy!

Its Almost Winter Again!

My, how time flies!  So we must be having fun ("Time flies when you having fun").  Or as Kermit says "Time's fun when you're having flies."   Seems it was just the other day we were doing spring cleaning and getting ready for another camping season.  Now, it is mid September and as I look at the weather forecast, predicted overnight temperatures on the mountain where I am currently staying are rapidly approaching the freezing point.  We've even had a few snow flurries and the possibility of more snow in a day or so.  That means winterizing RVs or putting them in a heated garage to prevent freeze damage.   If you get a night or two of barely freezing temperatures with warmer days in between, full winterization may not be as critical as it is where you have sub-freezing temperatures (say 24° F or below) for days on end.  Then you MUST winterize your vehicle to prevent freeze damage.  Anything with water in it is subject to freeze damage.   That includes holding tanks, water lines, hoses, faucets, hot water heaters, water jugs, and even porta-pottys.  And make sure you remove any provisions that might freeze, like cans or bottles of soda, or you'll have a real mess next spring.  I try to make sure my RVs are winterized long before I get two or more nights at 24° F or below, as those temperatures are sure to start causing damage.

There are other posts on this blog and many excellent articles on other web sites that give detailed instructions on winterizing your RV so I won't repeat them here.  The point I want to make is it is time to start planning to winterize your rigs.   Remove provisions that could be damaged by freezing and properly protect all the water systems with appropriate antifreeze or by draining.   That means making sure engine coolant in motorhomes, generators, tow vehicles, and OHVs are properly protected with the right kind of antifreeze too.  Buy the RV antifreeze you need now before its all gone as "everyone" finally gets around to winterizing their boats and RVs.

What about "winterizing" yourself?  You probably need to drag out your warm winter clothes and snow boots and make sure they are in good condition to be used.  Hopefully you cleaned them and stored them properly, but they may still need to be aired out and you need to inspect them for insect or vermin infestations and damage.  If you live someplace with a true four-season environment you'll want to find or obtain thermal underwear and maybe some insulated socks.   Don't forget earmuffs or beanies to keep your ears from freezing.   A balaclava (face mask) is good to have to keep your face warm if you expect to be out in really cold weather or riding an OHV, snowmobile, or horse in cold weather.  Warm, water-resistant or water-proof gloves or mittens are essential for keeping your hands warm.  Some chemical heat pads like "Hot Hands" can help keep your fingers and toes and other body parts warm.   Mittens will keep your fingers warmer than gloves, but you sacrifice some dexterity.  One of my winter favorites is a "ushanka" -- a Russian ear hat, those furry hats with flaps that cover your ears, neck, and part of your cheeks.  I find them very good for winter and even for extra cool desert nights.

What about winter activities?   Weather will likely have a significant impact on the kinds of activities you choose for winter.  Depending on where you live and you might switch over to winter sports, like skiing, snowboarding, or snowmobiling.  Or you might just put your outdoor energy toward getting ready for next year.   Now is a good time to perform routine inspections and maintenance on your vehicles and your gear.   Even if the weather is bad outside you can work on your camping gear and OHVs inside.   If your garage isn't heated you might use your catalytic tent heater to take the chill off.   Just be sure you have adequate ventilation.  Go through your RV or camping gear.  Make sure everything you used last year got back where it belongs and is clean and in good shape for next season.   Check your supplies and replace used up, damaged, outdated or missing items.  Check your sources for camping gear to see what may be available at year end or end of season closeout prices to enhance next year's outings.  Close outs and clearances are a good time to stock up for next year.   You may be able to snag a good deal on some new gadget or piece of equipment you've been wanting or just stock up on expendables.  Be sure to check online resources like ebay and craigslist.   You might even find some stuff on Freecycle.com, a web site where people list things they want to get rid of.  You never know.  Someone may need to make room in their garage and have just the tent you're looking for and all you have to do is go pick it up!  Freecycle is an interesting way to recycle useful items.   You may find YOU have stuff you don't need anymore. Listing it on Freecycle.com may make it available to someone who can really use it and you don't have to hassle with setting prices or haggling with prospective buyers.   It sure beats throwing it in the trash!

Ready. Set. Snow!

Spring Cleaning -- Again

April 3.  Its finally that time of the year again.  The winter snow has melted, trees and shrubs are starting to bud, and campers are getting anxious to get away.   No matter how carefully you stored your equipment and gear at the end of the last season, you'll need to invest a little time preparing for this year's camping adventures.  In this post we'll go over some reminders.  For more detail, see the previous post on Spring Cleaning.

Tents, sleeping bags, and other camping equipment that has been stored needs to be unpacked and inspected.   Even in the cleanest residential environments, vermin, mold, and insects can take their toll on stored gear.   If there was a little moisture left in tent or sleeping bag fabric when it was rolled up there is a good chance it will have developed the most interesting (and unpleasant) smell. Unroll your tents, awnings, canopies, sleeping bags, and patio mats and make sure they are clean and free from foul stains and odors.   Most fabrics can be cleaned with mild household cleaner, but take care not to over soak them.   A fabric freshener like Fabreze may help eliminate stale odors.  Have your sleeping bags dry cleaned.  Even if they may say they can be machine washed, dry cleaning will be less likely to cause the filling to mat and clump.  Tents may need to be re-waterproofed after cleaning with detergents.   Spray on waterproofing like "Camp Dry" is the easiest way to do this but liquids that are brushed on may provide heavier protection.  Pay special attention to the seams.  You may need to use a wax sealer stick on the seams to fill needle tracks that could leak.

Stoves, lanterns, and heaters need to be inspected and cleaned.  Check all fuel connections to make sure there are no leaks.  Clean both the inside and the outside of the glass globe on your lanterns.  Clean the fuel ports around the burners on your stoves.   Pumps on liquid fuel may need to be serviced.  Supply lines for propane appliances may have accumulated spider webs.  Spiders seem to like propane and are prone to build webs in the plumbing of stoves, lanterns, and BBQs.  You would think the pressure would simply blow the webs away, but they are surprisingly strong and adhere very well to the plumbing. Take care cleaning the orifices in propane burners.  Avoid shoving needles into them as they can damage the metal and alter the size and shape of the orifice.  Better to remove them and soak them in hot soapy water or vinegar and blow them out with a blast of compressed air.  If you can't clean them, replace them.

If you have any kind of RV you will need to de-winterize it -- unless you are fortunate enough to live in the sun belt where winterization isn't necessary.  Flush the RV antifreeze from all plumbing lines and fixtures.  You may need to clean the system with a diluted bleach solution to remove residual antifreeze tastes and any other odors that may have developed in storage.   Follow up this cleansing by rinsing with a baking soda solution and you're system will be ready to deliver great tasting water -- if you fill it with good,clean, filtered water to begin with.  If you have a portable hot water system you use tent camping, you'll need to de-winterize in a similar fashion.  Other post-storage tasks include inspecting the unit for any winter damage from elements, insects, or vermin. Check all tires, belts, and hoses and verify proper fluid levels.  Now is a good time to do a thorough cleaning and detailing inside and out.   Not only will your rig look nicer for the upcoming season, you will have a better chance of detecting any problems that might have gotten started so you can deal with them BEFORE you hit the road.  Be suspicious of unusual odors, stains, or softspots that might signify leakage and dry rot.  Be sure to inspect all the exterior seams and joints around windows and doors where temperature changes may have damaged the sealants.  Clean and service the air conditioners.  This includes cleaning the fins on the condensers outside and the filters inside.  Check and clean the refrigerator cooling coils and the burner.  Insects, rodents, and birds often find those places and use them for comfortable winter homes. 

Provisions need to be inspected, inventoried, and replenished.  Check for and replace damaged or leaking containers, outdated, stale, or used up items.  Be sure to check basic food items, cleaning supplies, medical supplies, and personal hygiene items.  Temperature swings over the winter months can take their toll on many products.   I've seen unopened bottles of hand lotion that had separated, spoiled and become unusable and foul smelling during winter storage.  Hot summer storage temperatures can do the same thing.  Check to make sure you aren't hauling around empty or near-empty containers that won't do you any good.  You will want to establish a "low re-order point" in your mind for each item.  Stuff that gets used a lot will need to be replaced when the container gets below about 25% while stuff that gets little use won't need to be replaced until is is nearly empty.

Tools and utensils need to be inspected and inventoried.  Missing or damaged items should be replaced.  Make sure all cutting tools (knives, axes, saws) are clean and sharp.  Check your kitchen drawers and your tool box to make sure anything you might have used last season or may have borrowed over the winter has been returned to is rightful place.

Inspect your camping wardrobe.   Look for old tears or stains or new damage that needs to be taken care of.  Insects may have found a home in your clothing over the winter.  Clothing that has been in storage over the winter, in your RV or your camp bins, may need to be laundered or at least freshened before use.  Sometimes all it needs is a session in a clothes dryer with some pleasant smelling dryer cloths and/or a shot of Fabreze.

Check your checklists.   Use existing checklists to go over your equipment to ensure you are ready for the new camping season.  Now is also a good time to review and update your checklists.  You may find you have things on the list that are no longer needed or that you found things during last year's activities that were missing from the checklist.   Hopefully you took care of the "to do" list from your last outing when you got home or over the winter, but if it is still hanging around waiting for attention, go down THAT list and make sure you bring everything up to date.   Re-creating the same list again this year will be very frustrating and waste a lot of time and energy.

Review your plans for this season.  Will you be repeating many or even all of last year's trips?   If not, are there any items related to deleted trips you can take out and leave home?  Are there new places or events or activities you want to include that may require additional equipment or supplies? Did you have everything you needed for all of your trips last year?  Will any of this year's planned activities require additional planning, equipment, or preparation?

Investing a little time now will ensure a much more enjoyable and frustration-free season. Making sure everything is ready to go will give you confidence and allow you to enjoy your outdoor time instead of spending it worrying, making repairs or "making do".

RV Winter Maintenance

It would be nice if we could just park our RVs and OHVs and forget about them during winter storage.   Some people do, but they usually pay the price, especially if they live in a cold climate. There are several things you need to do and to monitor to ensure your RV is safe and remains in good condition.

Proper preparation for winter storage (winterizing) is the first step.  We've gone over that in this blog a couple of times already.  The main concern is making sure your plumbing doesn't freeze. Protect tires with tire covers and by parking on wooden "pads" to keep off cold concrete and out of freezing mud.

Some RV insurance plans, like Good Sam, offer a discount while your RV is in storage.   If you have such a plan, be sure to call your insurance company and let them know as soon as you park your RV for the winter so you get maximum savings.

If your RV is a motorhome, you should run the engine about an hour every month.  If possible, take it for a drive.  Driving it helps to circulate lubricants and flex tires to maintain pliability and bring chemicals to the surface to prevent side wall cracking in addition to lubricating the moving parts.  It also gives you a chance to watch for oil and coolant leaks and listen for any other developing problems.  If your insurance allows you a storage option, driving it may not be feasible since your insurance would not be in effect, but starting and running the engine will help maintain the charge on your batteries and circulate fluids.  Most motorhomes have automatic transmissions.  Shifting through all the gears a few times if you can't drive it will help circulate transmission fluid and keep seals from drying out.

Towing your trailer a few miles each month (weather permitting) will exercise the tires and distribute wheel bearing grease.  Listen for any unusual noises and put your hand on the hubs after driving to see if the wheel bearings are overheating.  Some warmth is normal but if any one hub is noticeably hotter than the others it may be dry or damaged and should be removed, inspected and serviced.   Damaged bearings need to be replaced.  Check for proper brake operation each time you drive.  It is also a good idea to check all of the trailer running lights (park lights, brakes, turn signals, and clearance lights) while it is hooked up since insects or rodents sometimes chew on wires and can cause them to short out or humidity and temperature changes may induce corrosion.

Inspect the exterior, especially if it is parked outside where falling or blowing debris might damage it.   Sometimes just changes in temperature can crack glass.  If possible rinse off accumulated dust every couple of weeks or so to protect the clear coat present on many paint jobs.  Dust will trap UV rays within the clear coat and accelerate deterioration.   If you get snow, be sure to monitor accumulation and sweep it off the roof before it builds up deep enough to damage the roof or any of the components up there (storage pods, ACs, vents, antennas, etc.).

Check the interior of your RV periodically, about once a month should be sufficient under normal circumstances, more frequently if you experience extreme weather.   Look for any signs of water, insect, or rodent damage.  Also double check provisions to make sure you didn't leave something on board that was damaged by freezing temperatures or has been attacked by vermin.  See if you need to replace the dehumidifier.  If it is full of water, toss it out and open a new one.

Vandalism is sometimes a problem in RVs in storage.  I've seen units stored at the owner's home vandalized, even with the owner at home.  Storage yards do what they can to ensure the safety of your vehicles, but sometimes people with malicious intent will circumvent security measures and wreak havoc on unattended vehicles.  While your options for physically protecting your vehicle from vandalism may be limited, regular inspection will at least let you detect problems as early as possible. Timely reporting may assist law enforcement in apprehending the culprits and comply with insurance requirements and timely repairs will prevent further damage from bad weather if the integrity of the outer shell has been compromised.

Check your batteries.   Always wear rubber gloves and eye protection when handling lead acid batteries.   If you haven't removed the batteries for storage in a warmer place, check both the charge status and the electrolyte level.  Check the charge status with a volt meter or by testing the specific gravity of the fluid.  A fully charged battery should register about 12.6 volts (half that on each 6 volt golf cart battery) or 1.265 specific gravity using a hydrometer.   Some battery hydrometers use colored balls to indicate charge state instead of a graduated scale.  If you find the electrolyte is low, add only distilled water.  If the temperature is below freezing you'll need to mix the added water to prevent it from freezing.  After you put the caps on, rock the battery or, better yet, take the unit for a hour's ride to charge the batteries and mix the water into the electrolyte.  If you can't take it out, put a charger on the batteries for an hour to help mix the contents.  If the voltage or specific gravity is low, charge the batteries back to full charge to avoid having them freeze.  Fully charged batteries are freeze-protected down to -75°F.  Fully discharged batteries will freeze at just -10°F.   If you have your batteries on an automatic battery tender, they should maintain their charge all winter, as long as the electrolyte doesn't boil off and expose the tops of the plates inside the battery.   The most common reason for boiling off electrolyte is excessive charging voltage.   Deep cycle batteries should be charged at about 14.8 volts. See the charts at PowerStream Sealed Lead Acid Battery Charging Basics for complete charts and detailed testing instructions.

Don't forget the windshield washer fluid in your motorhome and other vehicles.   Summer formulas will freeze.  Most winter fluids are good to at least -20°F, which is usually adequate unless you live in northern Alaska!

We sometimes spend a night in our RV at home during the off season or use it as a guest house for visitors.  This is a good way to make sure it remains inhabitable and to test the furnace and lighting.  Since we live where we get freezing temperatures in the winter, we do not use any of the plumbing during winter months, but if your RV is equipped for winter use you could do so.   Any use, even of winter-capable units, would require re-winterization after use to prevent freezing of water lines and dump valves in storage --- unless you live where you don't have to worry about freezing.

Winter is also a good time to do interior projects in your RV.  Do you want to update or add lighting fixtures?   Repair upholstery?  Add any new gadgets?   Any new entertainment equipment you want to install?  Any appliances that need service or repair?   Any cabinets or drawers that need to be fixed or just reorganized?  Don't we all suffer from the shortage of "round tuits"?    You know, all those things you can't do because you can't get around to it.  Winter is a good time to take care of those things you never got around to during the camping season.  The "off season" is a good time to empty out, clean, and reorganize every closet, cabinet, drawer and tool box.   If nothing else, it is helps us remember what we have on board and where it is.  You can also detect and repair or replace worn, damaged, or outdated items.

OHVs should be properly prepared for winter storage too.   Drain the fuel tank and run out all the fuel in the carburetor or add fuel stabilizer before parking your machine.   Change the oil so it isn't sitting all winter with contaminates that can damage metal parts.  Put a light coating of oil on exposed metal parts.  If it has batteries, they should be removed and stored in a warm place.  Leaving them on a maintenance charger might keep them charged enough to prevent freezing.  Just leaving them sit in freezing temperatures all winter is an invitation to failure.  Park your OHVs in a garage or shed if possible.  If not, cover them with a tarp to prevent damage from the elements.   Tires should be fully inflated and wooden "pads" put under them.

Store it right!

Winterization -- Again!

Yes, there already is a post on winterization.   So this is mostly just a reminder.   If you live an area that gets freezing temperatures you'll need to winterize your RV and camping equipment BEFORE the freezing weather hits every year.  You should already be started on or planning for winterization by the time you get your first frost.  Chances are you'll still have little time before consistent freezing temperatures will cause damage in your RV, but don't wait too long!

Tent campers will probably have little winterization to do, unless you have a portable hot water system or a Porta-potty.   These WILL need to be drained and winterized just like RV water systems or stored in a heated area where they won't freeze.  Also check any food and medications you have in your camp kit and make sure they are safely stored so they won't freeze.  Otherwise, if you properly stored your stuff after your last outing, you should be good to go.   Make sure your sleeping bags aren't tightly rolled and that your tents and tarps are dry.  Store sleeping bags loosely in large stuff sacks or hang them up so the filling doesn't get compacted.

RV water systems and holding tanks will need to be drained and RV antifreeze added to protect critical components from freezing.   Completely drain your fresh water tank and all the lines.  Open all the faucets to allow water to drain back into the tank.   Then either blow out the lines and fixtures with compressed air or pump RV antifreeze through the lines until it comes out every fixture.  You may want to pump antifreeze through the system after blowing it out just be sure you don't have any problems if there was any residual left after blowing it out.  Don't forget the toilet!   Make sure you put at least a half cup of antifreeze in each sink or shower to protect the P-trap in the drain.   Dump enough antifreeze into the black water tank through the toilet and down the gray water drains (sinks, shower) to protect the dump valves -- usually at least a quart in each tank.  Drain the hot water heater. If it has bypass valves, set them so the antifreeze will flow through the bypass instead of the water heater.  That saves you about 6 gallons or more of antifreeze it would take to fill the hot water heater.

Use ONLY Marine/RV antifreeze in RVs and camping appliances.   It is non-toxic and is usually pink in color.  Automobile antifreeze (that green stuff) is usually ethylene glycol and is toxic. NEVER use it in an RV water system, not even in the holding tanks.  The chemicals in automotive antifreeze are not compatible with septic systems.

Don't forget your fresh water fill hose.   You should always drain the hose before storing it anyway, but for winter storage in freezing temperatures it is especially important to make sure there is no water left in the hose to freeze.  Water expands when it changes to ice which can burst the hose.

Windshield washer fluid also needs to be changed.   Summer formulas will freeze, most winter formulas are good down to at least -20°F.  That should be good enough for must of us, unless you live in northern Alaska or plan to visit Antarctica!

If you plan to use your RV at all during the winter months, you'll need to switch to winter fuel blends.  We usually don't think of fuel as being susceptible to freezing.   But, have you ever seen the documentaries of Antarctic research stations where they had to build fires under the fuel tanks before they could get their equipment going?  Winter diesel fuels have additives that prevent them from gelling.  Summer blends do not and at temperatures below about 40F will start to gel and become unusable.  The colder it gets, the worse the problem.  Hard starting is an early symptom and as it gets colder the engine won't run at all.  Propane has a similar problem.   Although it vaporizes at -44F, the reduction in tank pressure at low temperatures will cause  problems.  I have seen it recommended to keep your propane tanks full whenever the temperature drops below 40°F.  Partially empty tanks encourage condensation which can freeze.  The temperature inside the tanks drops dramatically as gas is drawn off. I could not light the furnace in my Class B at all one winter in Chicago when it was about -20°F outside.  I've had similar problems with the furnace in my camper at temperatures below 10F° here in Utah.   Freezing of pressure regulators can occur even when the outside temperature is above freezing due to the cooling effect of the propane itself on the regulator.  Try to use up you last summer filling of your propane tank and refill it before putting your rig into storage.  Winter blends often contain a mix of propane and butane, which improves low temperature performance.

If you're not going to be using your RV during winter months you need to winterize the water systems and batteries and protect the vehicle from bad weather.   Storing it in a garage, shed, or carport is best.  Next best is using an RV cover.  As a last resort you can protect them with tarps, but tarps can damage paint and other surfaces and may trap condensation.  Use tire covers while the vehicle is in storage to reduce weather checking and prolong the useful life of your tires.   You will also need to remove any provisions (food stuffs, medicines, cleaning supplies) that might freeze or be attacked by bugs or rodents while your vehicle is in storage.  For added protection against mice, put a Decon trap or two inside.  To prevent moisture from accumulating and contributing to mildew and odor problems, use some kind of de-humidifier in your RV while it is in storage.  There are electric de-humidifiers you can use if you have 120 volt power to your RV in storage and there are chemical types that work anywhere.  For the past several years I've been able to find them at my local Dollar Tree so they don't have be expensive.  Make sure you put the cap back on and remove them before you take your RV out next spring so the collected moisture doesn't spill.  BTW, if when you check them during storage you find only liquid in the container, toss it out and replace it with a new one.

If you do plan to use your RV in winter activities you will need to make sure the water system and holding tanks are protected against freezing.  You may need to apply heat tape to exposed tanks and water lines.  You can also buy heated potable water hoses for your city water connection.  Be aware a heated hose may still leave the faucet unprotected and it could freeze, leaving you without water but with a hefty repair bill from the campground!  Always wrap the exposed pipe for your water faucet with heat tape in freezing weather.  You may need auxiliary heat to supplement your furnace.   If you have shore power, portable electric heaters are a simple and convenience solution.  Lacking shore power, you'll need catalytic heaters that run on white gas or propane.   Keep in mind these heaters consume oxygen so they can only be used with adequate ventilation.  That means keeping a couple of windows open enough to provide both you and the device with enough fresh air to breathe.  To minimize heating needs, make sure your windows are insulated with heavy drapes or add bubble-foil insulating panels.  Unless your RV has four wheel drive you may be required to have tire chains on certain mountain passes.   Installing tire chains on a large RV is not fun!  You may want to practice it a few times before you find yourself out alongside the road putting them on in a blizzard!  A small tarp or section of bubble-foil insulation to lie on helps keep you out of the wet snow.

Batteries.   Make sure your batteries are fully charged.  If you have them on an automatic battery tender, you can leave them in the vehicle but if they aren't on a charger, take them out and store them where they won't freeze.  Fully charged batteries are safe down to about -75°F; dead batteries will freeze around -10°F.  Check the electrolyte level and top them off with distilled water BEFORE the temperature drops below 32°F.  Water added in freezing weather will probably freeze before it gets mixed with the rest of the acid unless you drive a bit or take the batteries out and shake them.   Also make sure all the connections are clean and tight.

No freeze-ups!