Wecome To RVs and OHVs

This blog is all about RVs (recreational vehicles) and OHVs (Off Highway Vehicles), camping, and survival
and how they work together to provide wholesome family fun and great learning opportunities.
Many posts are intended to familiarize novice campers and RVers with RV systems and basic camping and survival
skills. But even experienced RVers and campers will enjoy the anecdotes and may even benefit from a new
perspective. Comments, questions, and suggestions are encouraged.

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Sunday, November 22, 2015

Winter Camping At Home -- Say What?

In most of the colder parts of the country, winter means storing our RVs and camping gear and holing up in front of  a cozy fireplace until the warm weather returns.  Those in the sunbelt can continue to enjoy outdoor pursuits.  When we lived in southern California even New Years Day was an opportunity for RVing and dirt biking in the Mojave Desert.  Not likely that is going to happen here in Utah!  So why they heck would anyone what to do any winter camping at home?

If you have an RV you store at home during the winter you might consider spending a night or two in it just for fun, to maintain your familiarity with systems and supplies, and to keep your equipment in peak opearting condition.  We did that in our truck camper when the onset of winter sneaked up on us before we could take it out.  If you're in freezing weather you won't want to use any of the water or sewer systems, but you can still test out the furnace and determine if the bedding is adequate for cold nights.  And you could cook and eat in the RV.  Just be sure to take all the dishes back into the house to wash them.  Using your RV systems periodically while in storage is actually good for them.  Run the generator for an hour so two.  Disuse is one of the hardest things on equipment.

Our motorhome and camper have both served as extra guest rooms when we've had family visiting at Christmas on a number of occasions.  We had to educate our guests that there was no water and to not use the toilet, but otherwise they were quite warm and comfortable and enjoyed more privacy than they might have had crammed inside the house with other guests.  The grandkids especially liked staying in an RV.  If you live in the sunbelt where winterization isn't necessary, using the RV is even more convenient.

Winter opportunities for tent campers are more limited but still possible.  You may have to set up your tent in the snow, but even that can be surprisingly comfortable if you are prepared for it.  If that doesn't appeal to you and your family you might resort to setting up your tent in the garage or an outbuilding.  I've noticed that the temperature inisde my garage is typically in the mid 50s even when the outside temperature is in the teens.  I've read that even just having a roof over your head can raise the temperature 20°F, which is often enough to prevent freezing of water lines etc.  A barn, shed, or greenhouse could also provide a temperate location for setting up a winter tent.

I've even seen folks set up dome tents in their family rooms and living rooms for the kids for a fun night or two and there is no reason that couldn't be done by kids of ALL ages.

Practicing your winter camping skills could turn out be more than just a fun diversion.  If you should experience a long term power outage during the winter, being able to  move into your RV or set up your tent in your living room might be your best way to survive.  The threat of long term power outages grows stronger every day.  Not only are we now facing possible outages from a strong EMP from solar activity, the terrorist organization ISIS is actively planning ways to disable the US power grid.  Many people aren't aware of just how vulnerable the power grid is nor how long it would take to replace damaged transformers and restore power.  It would likely be years!

Practicing your campfire skills can also be fun in winter.   Gathering around a blazing fire is a good way to ward off the chill of winter activities.  Campfires may also become critical for cooking during an extended emergency.

Be cool and keep warm!

Saturday, November 21, 2015


While a "blowout" sale is usually a good thing, having a tire blowout on your RV or tow vehicle certainly is not.  Blowouts can cause serious damage as the fragmented tire slams into parts of the vehicle or friction heats things up and causes a fire.  I've had motorhome and trailer tires blow out a few times, and it is never a pleasant or inexpensive proposition.  After a tire blew out on my enclosed motorcycle trailer I discovered it was likely caused by a failed magnet in the electric brakes that had locked up the brakes and made the tire drag.  In addition to the tire itself, it destroyed the wheel and the fender skirt and the collapse of the tire allowed the entry step to hit the ground and get bent way beyond repair.  The leaf spring on that side was also damaged.  I had to replace both springs and both brakes (they should always be replaced in pairs).  I was unable to find a matching fender skirt so I had to replace the skirts on both sides to maintain a satisfactory appearance.  By the time all was said and done the total bill came to about $1200!

I had a nearly new right front tire blow out on a class A motorhome on one trip.   I discovered the cause of the failure was a valve extension installed by the tire shop.  The technician there had claimed the braided stainless steel extensions I had been using were prone to failure and talked me into installing solid semi-truck style extensions.  Unfortunately, the new extension rubbed against the wheel cover until it wore a hole in it and allowed the air to leak out of the tire.  The flapping of the exploded tire ripped out all the wiring for the lights (headlight, park light, and turn signal) and destroyed the outside cabinet behind the wheel well.  We gathered up the scattered contents of the shattered cabinet and avoided driving after dark until I could re-wire the lights.  Then I had to rebuild the cabinet when I got home.

The loss of a left rear inside dual on a 40' diesel pusher managed to damage the primary plumbing near the water pump.  All my fresh water leaked out and I couldn't even use park hook ups until I was able to repair the broken pipe.  I never did figure out what caused that particular failure.  The tire had been in good condition at the start of the trip and I religiously check tire pressure every morning before hitting the road.  I suspect it may have been damaged by some kind of debris on the road.

Way too many blowouts are simply a result of under inflation.  A soft tire will quickly overheat and together with the stress of excessive flexing of the sidewalls will soon fail under highway conditions.  Under inflation can usually be avoided by simply checking tire pressure regularly.  Under inflated tires will usually look "squishy" and will be hotter than properly inflated tires after driving.  Whenever you discover an under inflated tire, bring it up to the correct pressure as soon as possible.  However, driving on an under inflated tire will sometimes have already caused enough internal damage that the tire has been weakened and will fail prematurely.  The best way to ensure proper inflation is to check tire pressure with an accurate gauge.  Truckers and some RVers will use a "tire thumper" as a way to quickly see if tire pressure is approximatley where it should be.  Soft tires will give off a dull thump instead of a sharp thud and an experienced driver can usually feel the difference when the thumper strikes the tire.  Under inflated tires may show excessive wear on both edges of the tire

Over inflation isn't good either, but it usually doesn't cause the rapid and catastrophic failures associated with under inflation.   Over inflated tires will cause handling and ride problems, making the vehicle feel skittish and the ride harsh.  Over inflated tires will show excessive wear in the center of the tread.

Overloading is another common cause of tire failures.  Some large motorhomes are very close to the maximum chassis and/or tire rating as they come from the factory so it is all too easy to over load them with passengers and equipment.  If you suspect your vehicle is overloaded, take it to a truck scale and weight each individual wheel.  Having the weight on each wheel will allow to set the right tire pressure for the load.

Dragging trailers brakes can also cause tire failures.  If trailer tires get unusually hot when towing the brakes may be dragging and should be inspected and adjusted.

Failed suspension components can put inappropriate stress on tires.  Weak or broken springs and/or shocks can stress tires and sometimes either rub directly on the tire or allow it to rub on other parts of the fame or body.  If a vehicle sags more on one corner than the others or if a wheel seems to be leaning the body appears to be lower than it should be you should have the suspension checked.  Worn, bent, or broken suspension can not only cause tire failures but could cause a loss of control that may result in a serious accident.

A blowout on a motorhome is usually very apparent the instant it happens bu drivers of tow vehicles are not always immediately aware of tire failures on trailers.   A few years ago an older couple pulling a travel trailer through Idaho and Washington failed to notice a flat tire on the trailer.  Flaming debris from the dragging tire ignited several wildfires along their route.  How can a driver not notice a flat tire?  A flat on the vehicle you are driving is usually pretty obvious, but one on a trailer can be well disguised, especially if the trailer is relatively small compared to the weight and power of the tow vehicle.  The driver of a 40' motorhome pulling a little 15' utility trailer probably won't feel anything if a trailer tire blows out.  However, he should be able to see the trailer leaning when he checks his rear view mirrors or back up camera.  You should frequently monitor the attitude of your trailer when towing.  And also watch for signs of smoke that could indicate a tire has failed.

If you do experience a blowout, DON'T jam on the brakes!   Keep a strong grip on the steering wheel and slowing pull over out of traffic, allowing the vehicle to slow, using the brakes as little as possible.  Jamming on the brakes can cause a sudden grabbing of the damaged tire and wheel, resulting in an unexpected change of direction and/or loss of control. 

Smoothe motoring!

Friday, November 13, 2015

Dealing With Flooded Camp Sites

Noah had advance warning and considerable time to prepare for The Flood.  When we're camping, we usually don't get much advance warning.  In fact, if we knew it was coming we probably wouldn't be camping in the first place. While completely avoiding situations where your camp site might get flooded is certainly the best approach, there may be times when you get caught in flood waters.

If you select your camp sites properly, you shouldn't have any problems with flooding.  But sometimes your options are limited.  Given a choice, set up camp (tent or RV) on a slight rise so that any water that may arrive doesn't flow under your RV or into your tent.  Never set up camp in a dry wash or a deep depression if there is any chance of rain.  Even if the rain is many miles away, flood waters may rush down dry washes with surprising force and speed.  Always avoid camping on marshy ground where vehicle can sink in.  If the ground is already soft, a sudden rain can nearly liquify it, allowing tires and leveling jacks to sink deep into the mud and making it very difficult or perhaps even impossible to drive out  Getting towed out of a situation like that can be very expensive.  I've even seen would-be rescuers get stuck and have to towed out, greatly multiplying the frustration, delay, and expense.

I got surprised by flooding during one desert camp out.  We were on solid, gravely ground that was fairly level and were not in a sand wash or dry creek bed.  Even so, heavy rains one evening delivered water rushing under and around our RV, bringing with it enough silt that our grass patio mat was completely buried under about a half inch of mud the next morning.   Basically the entire parking area was in the path of runoff from not too distant hills, turning into a broad, shallow river. Further analysis showed the only way to have avoided the problem would have been to camp somewhere else.  There was little we could do except do our best to avoid tracking mud into the motorhome, usually by leaving muddy shoes outside or just inside the door and wait for the sun to dry things out.  When we packed up at the end of the outing we shook as much mud and dirt off the grass mat as we could, then folded it up and stuffed in the back or our motorcycle trailer.  At home we hung in on a corral fence and used a power washer to restore it to usable condition.  We left it hanging on the fence and by the next day it was try enough to roll up and store back in its proper cabinet on the motorhome.

If you do get flooded out, sometimes your best bet it to just sit tight until the water recedes and the ground dries out enough for you to drive out.  Hopefully you won't be in water deep enough that it gets inside your RV, although that is a possibility if you are in a low enough spot and/or there is enough rain.  Attempting to exit over soft or flooded ground is likely to result in getting your vehicles thoroughly stuck.

Dealing with a flooded camp site in a tent can be lot more devastating.   Had we been camping in tents instead of RVs when the above mentioned incident happened, it would have been our tents and sleeping bags instead of a grass mat that were buried in mud!  It is CRITICAL that tents be set up on high enough ground so they won't ever be in the path of rising water.  Finding "high ground" when camping in the desert can be difficult and options will be very limited when staying in developed campgrounds with assigned spaces.  Hopefully, developed campgrounds will have been properly engineered to drain properly without flooding the pads intended for tents.

Stay dry!

Thursday, November 12, 2015

Covering Your RV

Covering your RV to protect it from the elements is basically a good idea -- if its done right.  One of the best ways to protect an RV from summer sun and winter precipitation is to put it in a garage or under an RV "carport".  Next best is to use an RV cover made especially for the purpose.  Because RV covers are more expensive than blue polytarps, people will often opt to cover their RVs with tarps with some very unpleasant and unwanted consequences.  RV covers are made of a soft fabric that won't damage the moldings and finish on the RV.  Tarps have a rougher weave that over a single winter can polish the paint right off corner moldings and sometimes the sides of the RV itself.  RV covers are NOT waterproof.  They are water resistant and breathable.  That prevents them from trapping moisture inside the cover where it can eventually saturate the walls and cause delamination.

It is good to shade your RV during summer months to prevent sun damage and minimize heat buildup inside.  Also use tire covers to protect the rubber from exposure that will speed deteriorization.  It is OK to shade your RV with a polytarp, just don't wrap it around the entire vehicle.  Hang it on a frame over the RV or use it to cover the roof only.

RVs usually need protection from precipitation (rain/snow) during winter months.  As mentioned above, the best protection is inside or under some kind of sturdy structure that will protect it from sun and from snow loads.  If that isn't feasible for you, invest in an RV cover.  Custom covers will fit best but are a bit pricey.  You can usually find a generic cover sized to closely fit most RVs.  RV covers are made from a soft,  breathable material that will not damage RV surfaces.   Custom covers usually have a zipper door to give you easy access to the entry door during storage.  Off the shelf covers probably won't have a zipper door or it may not be where you need it.  Covers should have straps to secure them under the RV or grommets where you can attach bungee cords or ropes to tie them down.  If you don't have to worry about freezing weather, an easy trick for holding down a cover is to tie it to one gallon plastic bleach or milk jugs that have been filled with water.  Since water weighs 8 lbs per gallon, each jug anchors its anchor point with 8 lbs of force.   Use several jugs all around to keep the cover from blowing off.  If you have to deal with freezing weather, secure the bottom of the cover to the bottom of the RV.  You might use inverted plastic bins spaced on top of the RV to create a uniform height and keep the cover above air conditioners, vents covers, and antennas  If the cover is in direct contact with somewhat narrow features like roof racks or the top of ladders, the cover may be damaged or worn through as the wind whips it over the obstacle.

It is advisable to use tire covers whenever the RV is in storage,  both summer and winter.  Tire covers are relatively expensive and a whole lot less expensive than tires.  I've seen folks cut a piece of plywood or OSB they can slip in the fender wells to shade tires.  This will keep them out of direct sunlight, which is the biggest threat, but it is better to use canvas or vinyl tire covers, which protect the tires from ozone as well as sunlight.

Cover up!

Sunday, October 25, 2015

RV Toilets

OK, so it isn't a very polite or palatable subject.  However, there are several things newbies should know that will make life on the road -- and in camp -- more pleasant.

First of all, most RV toilets are not made of porcelain like home toilets.  They are made of plastic.  One reason for that is it makes them a lot lighter and saving weight in an RV is important.  However, that means they have special cleaning requirements.  You can usually use most liquid toilet cleaners safely, but never use harsh cleansers which will mar the finish. Once scratched it is almost impossible to restore and will collect unpleasant deposits.  Use something liked a "Softscrub" cleanser,  Bon Ami ("Hasn't scratched yet"), or a Mr Clean Magic Eraser for stubborn stains.

The plastic lid and seat often becomes discolored over time.  Sometimes you can safely restore the appearance by cleaning plastic parts with vinegar or lemon juice.  Lemon juice has the advantage of leaving a more pleasant fragrance.

To avoid stains sticking to the toilet bowl in the first place, always press down the flush pedal part way to run a little water in the bowl before using the toilet. Then keep a toilet brush or a dowel handy to clean stains after use.  Use the dowel to swab the bowl with a little toilet paper.  That way you don't put smelly deposits on a brush that will be left sitting in a container behind the toilet.  You can simple flush the toilet paper.

Don't put facial tissue in your RV toilet.  It will not break down as easily as toilet paper and can cause buildups and clogs that are difficult to remove when you dump the tanks.

Speaking of toilet paper, it is best to use the toilet paper designed for RV toilets.  If you run out, use the cheapest and lightest weight paper you can find.  The fancier, multi-layer brands won't break down well and may contribute to clogs and difficulty dumping the black water tank.

NEVER put disposable diapers or feminine hygiene products down an RV toilet.   Once again, these products won't break down in the holding tank and will cause clogs and bad odors.

Here's a tip for guys:  to avoid urine smell buildup around your RV toilet, sit down to urinate.  OK, so it may not be the most macho thing to do, so what?  It can keep things a lot nicer.  No matter how good your aim is, it still splatters and over time it adds up.  You will also find it especially convenient for nocturnal trips when you don't want to turn on any lights.

You may have a tendency to limit water usage when flushing to conserve your fresh water.   While conserving fresh water is almost always a priority when boondocking, using too little water will create problems in the black water tank, ranging from th buildup of a pyramid of waste right below the toilet to not having enough liquid for the chemicals to their job or to flush the tank when the time comes.  It may take a little experimentation to determine the right balance between conservation and adequate flushing.  It is usually a lot easier to err on the side of using too much water and slowly backing down than having to deal with too much solids building up in the tank.  Too much water in the holding tank will not cause any problems with dumping, but too little definitely will.  Too little water also impedes the function of holding tank chemicals, which break down solid waste and control odor.  If you think you are short of water in the black water tank (as evidenced by piles of solids seen beneath the toilet when you flush it), try adding some extra water collect while warming up your shower or even draw a bucket or two off your gray water tank and dump it down the toilet.

Enjoy your RV "throne".

Saturday, September 19, 2015

Fall Camping

Fall is when most campers put their stuff away for the winter.  But there are some really great experiences to be enjoyed as the leaves begin to turn.  Weather won't be too bad yet and is usually even more comfortable than hot summer days.  The cooler evenings are perfect for campfires.  You probably won't have to deal with freezing weather in early fall, but, depending on how high up in the mountains you go and how late in the season it is, you might encounter some pretty cold nights so be prepared to protect you and your equipment against freezing overnight temperatures.

Fall brings colorful leaf changes in many parts of the country.  Be sure to check out potential locations near you where you can enjoy the bright yellows, oranges, and reds as deciduous trees prepare to shed their leaves for the winter.  The only downside to seeking good viewing of fall foliage is that you may encounter heavier than normal traffic as others take the "scenic route" to also enjoy the colors.  Be aware that it is often freezing temperatures that trigger the dramatic changes in leaf color, so don't be surprised if you encounter very cold nights, especially at higher elevations.

Fall doesn't usually deliver the freezing temperatures of winter, but Mother Nature may choose to surprise you, so be prepared.  I remember a "Fall Encampment" I did with with one of my sons in Boy Scouts when it dipped to 24° overnight.  The California boys were totally unprepared for temperatures that cold and took turns warming their hands and other body parts in front of the fireplace in the lodge.  Make sure the furnace in your RV is in good working order and that you have sufficient propane and battery power to keep it going.  If you're tent camping, bring along your tent heater and/or your cold weather sleeping bags -- or an extra set of sleeping bags in case you need to double up to keep warm.

Fall weather is usually more volatile than summer weather.  It might be beautiful when you leave home, but that can change rapidly, so be sure to check the forecast before you leave home and then monitor the weather during your outing.  A NOAA weather radio is one of the best ways to monitor regional weather but just listening to local radio stations may be useful. And, of course, keep an eye on the sky and check with local rangers or fellow campers familiar with the area to know what to expect for local conditions.  Remember, mountains, which are often a first choice of campers, often generate their own weather so what you see might not show up on regional forecasts.

Camping facilities, especially Forest Service and other government run campgrounds, may begin to shut down as winter approaches.  Sometimes that means they are completely closed.  Other times they may have already shut off the water to faucets and bathrooms, but the camp sites ares still open to those who come prepared to do without an on site water source.  Commercial venues are less likely to shut down but you may still encounter some reduction in services so always check ahead of time so you don't get surprised and have to forgo your planned activities.

If you are camping at a full hookup campground in an RV, be sure to bring along some heat tape to wrap your city water connection (hose and faucet) in case you encounter any freezing temperatures.  Often it is freezing overnight temperatures that trigger the magnificent change of leaf color that makes fall camping so much fun.  If you don't have heat tape, disconnect your hose from the faucet, drain it, and store it inside a protected cabinet each night.  If you leave it connected, the frost-free faucet can't drain and both your hose and the faucet can freeze.  If that happens YOU will be liable to the campground for the cost of repairing the freeze damaged faucet!  As you can imagine, they are not cheap and the labor to dig them up and replace them is not trivial, especially if the ground is frozen!

When boondocking, make sure you have plenty of propane.  You're likely to use more for cooking and hot water as well as keeping the furnace going on colder nights.   Night time temperatures can be surprisingly cold during fall weather.  I did a Fall Encampment with the Boy Scouts in southern California and unexpectedly encountered 24° the first night! Did not expect that in southern California that time of year!

Cooler fall days are often a good time to hit the trails on your dirt bike, ATV, horse, or just hiking.  Moderate temperatures make for pleasant outings.  It is usually much easier to dress in layers to accommodate cooler weather than to try to stay cool when temperatures soar.  After all, there is only so much clothing you can remove when it gets too hot!

Fall is often hunting season in many parts of the country.  That can be a mixed blessing.  You may want to go camping to do some hunting, but if you are not a hunter, you may find yourself wandering around where they're likely to be shooting so you'll want to take appropriate precautions.  Wearing bright orange clothing is one way of distinguishing yourself from potential game but it is a better idea to avoid tramping around in popular hunting areas in the first place.  Most hunters are thoughtful and careful but there are always a few bad apples that spoil things for everyone else.  When I was growing up in Idaho a hunter was bragging in the barber shop that he "got off some sound shots but didn't hit anything".  When the barber asked him what he meant by "sound shots" he said "I heard a noise in the bushes and shot at it, but I didn't hit anything."  The barber proceeded to shave stripe down the middle of his head from front to back in a kind of reverse mohawk and when confronted by the hunter for what he did he defended his actions with a straight razor in his hand and said, in affect,"guys like you should be marked so everyone can see you coming".  Taking any shot without a clear view of the target -- and what's behind it -- is never a good idea.  Even if you're lucky and don't hit something you shouldn't (like a fellow hunter!), obstacles in the path of the arrow or even a bullet can deflect the shot so you miss your target and possible hit something you didn't intend to shoot.

Fall into fun!

Wednesday, June 10, 2015

Cruise Control

Cruise control is a useful tool for drivers of both motorhomes and tow vehicles as well as the family car.  The primary purpose of cruise control is to maintain a preselected speed and relieve the driver from having to constantly maintain pressure on the gas pedal.  On long drives that pressure often results in cramping and stiffness.  Using cruise control can allow the driver to be a little more relaxed.  To the extent that relieves stress, its a good thing, but you certainly don't want to become so relaxed that you get apathetic or drowsy!  Avoiding leg cramps is definitely a good thing.  Using cruise control is said to improve gas mileage too.

Cruise control can usually help get better fuel economy.  Each time you press down on the acclerator pedal the fuel system dumps gas into the engine.  Cruise control minimizes these surges and allows the engine to operate more efficiently.  However, cruise control can be problematic when towing a heavy trailer or negotiating hills.  Many drivers of heavy vehicles like to "get a run" at steep or long hills and cruise control cannot anticipate upcoming hills.  It can only react when the hill has already slowed you down.  Drivers who routinely maintain a steady foot on the accelerator won't see as much mileage improvement as those who tend to surge and back off frequently.  I once had a construction supervisor whose inconsistency on the gas pedal was enough to make his passengers car sick.  Fortunately I wasn't susceptible to motion sickness but other employees were. Riding with him was not comfortable.  He would have seen significantly better mileage by using cruise control (and probably avoided passengers vomiting in his truck!).

Why does cruise control improve gas mileage?  For one thing, each time you press down on the accelerator it dumps extra gas into the engine.  Avoiding frequent and often unnecessary movement avoids his extra fuel usage.  Some years ago I recall seeing something called an "Econometer" that supposedly helped drivers improve gas mileage.  It was a dial with green, yellow, and red segments and the goal was to keep the needle in the green as much as possible to get the best possible gas mileage.  How did this work?  Well, what it really was, was a vacuum gauge.  Low vacuum occurs when the engine is under load, so maintaining a steady throttle and avoiding putting load on the engine improves gas mileage. 

Cruise control should NOT be used on wet, snowy, or icy roads.  It has been demonstrated that cruise control, attempting to maintain speed on slick roads, can sometimes cause you to loose control  of your vehicle.  Even a little rain can be enough to cause problems.  Vehicles tend to hydroplane on wet roads.  When that happens you aren't driving on the pavement, you are driving on top of the water on the pavement and you have very little traction and very little control.  Because of lack of traction, the speed doesn't increase as it normally does when the cruise control opens the throttle, so it opens it more and more and when it eventually does get traction, the reaction is sudden and much more than needed, sending the vehicle out of control.  snopes.com lists this as TRUE.

I've seen drivers use the cruise control buttons like manual driving controls instead of using the gas pedal.  While I have no hard evidence that this isn't a good thing to do, common sense tells me it isn't.  There is usually some delay as the cruise control responds to input to accelerate or slow down, a delay the "real" driver doesn't normally introduce and I seriously doubt such use will provide the fuel economy benefits of setting the cruise control and leaving it alone.  I do not recommend using cruise control in heavy traffic.  The speed changes too often and the potential for another vehicle suddenly cutting you off and forcing you to slow quickly is too great.  Cruise control cannot anticipate nor even react to such things.

There are many anecdotes about naive drivers treating cruise control like an "auto pilot".   Hopefully, none of them are true, but in the interest of a little humor I will retell the story of the RV driver who wrecked his new motorhome after he set the "auto pilot" and went back to make a sandwich or a cup of coffee! Other variations include the driver who got in the back seat of his sedan to take a nap and the woman who went back in her van to care for her crying baby after setting the cruise control. Not surprisingly, snopes.com lists these as LEGEND.

Cruise along!