I make it a habit to check out the camping stuff just about everywhere I go. Walmart, K-mart, and Big 5 are my favorite places to at least window shop, but I also look over the stuff in truck stops and local grocery stores. Camp stores are always fun to check out. You'll often find creations of local craftsmen you won't see anywhere else.
Camping purchases may be planned or spontaneous. When you have determined you want a specific new gadget it is often useful to shop around to get the best price. Check the Internet. I've found a lot of stuff I need on eBay. Make a list of the things you need and compare prices and availability, then make your best deal. Don't forget to consider shipping costs when buying on the Internet. As retailers have become more competitive with Internet stores, the lack of shipping costs plus the convenience of having it NOW often tips things in their favor. Spontaneous purchases happen when you're browsing through the camping department and come across something you like. More often than not I've regretted not buying something when I spotted it. All too often it is no longer available when I finally get around to adding it to my list. Spontaneous purchases are particularly justified when you are out of town and somewhere it would be difficult to return to at a later time. I've found some of my camping tools in truck stops during our travels -- and have never seen the identical items anywhere else.
There are some unusual places you may find camping stuff. Garage sales and thrift stores can yield unbelievable bargains on camping equipment. Sometimes it has never even been used, just stuff people accumulated and never used or no longer need. Sometimes you'll see tools or supplies at home centers and hardware stores that are applicable to your camping lifestyle. If you like bargains (and most of us do!), check out liquidation centers and keep your eyes open when you visit your local dollar stores. I created a solvent-resistant, cushioned work surface on the workbench in my motorcycle trailer using foam animal puzzles from the 99 Cent store. It looks kind of funky, but it keeps things from sliding around, protects the counter top, and is surprisingly resistant to grease, oil, and solvent making it easy to clean. "Swim noodles" from the dollar store can be cut to make windshield wiper shields for motorhomes or used to wrap exposed tent or canopy poles to protect them from people walking into them and cushion the impact when they do. More than once I've found handy kitchen gadgets for my motorhome on the kitchen utensils wall at my local Dollar Tree. You never know what you might come across that will be helpful -- at least not until you spend a little time reviewing the options.
Good shopping!
Wecome To RVs and OHVs
This blog is all about RVs (recreational vehicles) and OHVs (Off Highway Vehicles), camping, and survival
and how they work together to provide wholesome family fun and great learning opportunities.
Many posts are intended to familiarize novice campers and RVers with RV systems and basic camping
skills. But even experienced RVers will enjoy the anecdotes and may even benefit from a new
perspective. Comments, questions, and suggestions are encouraged.
and how they work together to provide wholesome family fun and great learning opportunities.
Many posts are intended to familiarize novice campers and RVers with RV systems and basic camping
skills. But even experienced RVers will enjoy the anecdotes and may even benefit from a new
perspective. Comments, questions, and suggestions are encouraged.
Tuesday, May 14, 2013
Tuesday, April 30, 2013
Walmart Hospitality
Walmart is known for being RV friendly. I've even seen Walmart bill boards with RVs on them, inviting travels to stop in. Their large parking lots make a fairly safe and comfortable place to make an emergency stop for the night. The expansive selection of products makes Walmart a good place for one-stop shopping while you're there. You can replenish your pantry, pick up cleaning supplies, replace automotive chemicals you may have used up, even update your wardrobe. All at one convenient location.
Walmart's generosity is a privilege, not a right. All users must respect that fact and be courteous. Most RVers behave appropriately, but I've seen some who, if Walmart judged all RVers by them, would result in loss of access. On a recent trip to my local Walmart I saw a large, Class A motorhome with an SUV dingy behind it and a motorcycle on a rack on the back of the dingy. The driver had pulled into a double row so he was only occupying two parking places... BUT ... the front of the RV was about 4' out into one driveway and the entire SUV and motorcycle blocked about half the other one. I drive a 40' Class A and usually pull a 15' enclosed motorcycle trailer so I usually need lots of room. When there isn't room to park in the lot without blocking the roadways, we should go back out and park on the street. In the case described above there was plenty of easy curb parking that would not have been much further from the front door than where the offender had ensconced his rig. It may seem more thoughtful to try to only use up 2 parking spaces instead of parking crosswise over several spots -- but not if your rig then blocks the driveways! And street parking, when available, especially for short shopping visits, is even more preferable. Very often it is a lot easier to get going again from curb parking than negotiating a tight parking lot with a big rig.
Pack it in, pack it out. This is usually the mantra of back packers and environmental activists, but it applies equally well to RVers stopping in a rest area or a Walmart parking lot. Make sure your dump valves are closed and the cap tightly in place so you don't leave foul deposits on the pavement. Keep track of your garbage and don't let it blow around the parking lot. If you see trash anywhere near your rig, pick it up, even if it isn't yours. We should make this a habit where ever we go, but it is particularly offensive to leave a mess behind when accepting the free parking from at Walmart or rest areas.
Patronize the store. Very often we need supplies by the time we stop for the night, so give your business to Walmart while you're there. I always like to stroll through the RV supplies and camping accessories every time I'm in Walmart, even if I've only come for groceries or auto parts. You may well find something useful. Even though our travel budget usually doesn't include a category for this kind of shopping, I've found it very helpful and satisfying to take advantage of purchasing interesting items when I see them. All too often I've not been able to find them again if I decide to wait until I get home. And you'll never have a better frame of reference for whether something will be useful than during an actual trip.
Don't over stay your welcome. I'm sure Walmart and their neighboring businesses would not appreciate some camping in the parking lot for an extended period of time. Their generosity is aimed toward travel-weary drivers who need to get off the road and get a few hours rest before they have an accident. If you need someplace to stay longer than just overnight, seek out a public or private campground or a primitive camping area on BLM or forest service land. If you stay too long you can likely expect a visit from local law enforcement. If that happens, you can't automatically assume someone at Walmart called them. They may have just noticed the vehicle on a routine patrol or, perhaps, some neighbor (business or resident) may have called in the report.
Welcome to Walmart!
Walmart's generosity is a privilege, not a right. All users must respect that fact and be courteous. Most RVers behave appropriately, but I've seen some who, if Walmart judged all RVers by them, would result in loss of access. On a recent trip to my local Walmart I saw a large, Class A motorhome with an SUV dingy behind it and a motorcycle on a rack on the back of the dingy. The driver had pulled into a double row so he was only occupying two parking places... BUT ... the front of the RV was about 4' out into one driveway and the entire SUV and motorcycle blocked about half the other one. I drive a 40' Class A and usually pull a 15' enclosed motorcycle trailer so I usually need lots of room. When there isn't room to park in the lot without blocking the roadways, we should go back out and park on the street. In the case described above there was plenty of easy curb parking that would not have been much further from the front door than where the offender had ensconced his rig. It may seem more thoughtful to try to only use up 2 parking spaces instead of parking crosswise over several spots -- but not if your rig then blocks the driveways! And street parking, when available, especially for short shopping visits, is even more preferable. Very often it is a lot easier to get going again from curb parking than negotiating a tight parking lot with a big rig.
Pack it in, pack it out. This is usually the mantra of back packers and environmental activists, but it applies equally well to RVers stopping in a rest area or a Walmart parking lot. Make sure your dump valves are closed and the cap tightly in place so you don't leave foul deposits on the pavement. Keep track of your garbage and don't let it blow around the parking lot. If you see trash anywhere near your rig, pick it up, even if it isn't yours. We should make this a habit where ever we go, but it is particularly offensive to leave a mess behind when accepting the free parking from at Walmart or rest areas.
Patronize the store. Very often we need supplies by the time we stop for the night, so give your business to Walmart while you're there. I always like to stroll through the RV supplies and camping accessories every time I'm in Walmart, even if I've only come for groceries or auto parts. You may well find something useful. Even though our travel budget usually doesn't include a category for this kind of shopping, I've found it very helpful and satisfying to take advantage of purchasing interesting items when I see them. All too often I've not been able to find them again if I decide to wait until I get home. And you'll never have a better frame of reference for whether something will be useful than during an actual trip.
Don't over stay your welcome. I'm sure Walmart and their neighboring businesses would not appreciate some camping in the parking lot for an extended period of time. Their generosity is aimed toward travel-weary drivers who need to get off the road and get a few hours rest before they have an accident. If you need someplace to stay longer than just overnight, seek out a public or private campground or a primitive camping area on BLM or forest service land. If you stay too long you can likely expect a visit from local law enforcement. If that happens, you can't automatically assume someone at Walmart called them. They may have just noticed the vehicle on a routine patrol or, perhaps, some neighbor (business or resident) may have called in the report.
Welcome to Walmart!
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Monday, April 29, 2013
Hiking Comfort and Safety
Hiking is a wonderful way to explore nature. But, like any other outdoor activity, there are some risks and you need to prepare yourself by dressing properly, using good hiking form, and paying attention to your environment. Many of the tips provided in this post are also applicable to other outdoor activities, such as horeseback and OHV riding.
Access to many trail heads often involves hiking or walking along narrow rural roads where there are no sidewalks or pedestrian lanes. Sometimes this is the most dangerous part of the hike. When walking along a road with no pedestrian lanes, always walk facing traffic. That way you can see approaching vehicles and jump out of the way if they don't see you -- or don't have room to move over due to oncoming traffic. We have had two serious accidents in our rural neighbor hood in the last few years involving youth who were walking along a rural highway at night. One of our neighbors, a 14 year old boy, died at the scene of the first accident. He and his friend were walking along the right hand side of the road with their backs to traffic on their side of the road and didn't see the approaching car.
On the trails, watch where you're stepping. Avoid stepping over rocks or logs without knowing what is on the other side. Snakes and poisonous insects often hide under such obstacles and they can also mask dangerous holes that could cause you to sprain or break an ankle. Also be aware that prey travels on trails, predators travel beside trails. Hiking on a trail may make you look like prey to wild animals. That is not to say you should hike off the trail, just pay attention to your surroundings. Watch and listen for nearby movement that might indicate you are being stalked by a predator. Most wild animals are normally frightened of humans and will stay out of your way if you give them a chance. Let them know you're there by making some noise. Injured, starving, or sick animals may behave more aggressively, as will mothers with young if you appear to be a threat to their cubs.
One of the best ways to ensure your safety on the trails is to check in with the local ranger before striking out. From them you can learn about especially difficult sections of the trail you may need to watch out for and find out about recent animal activity. Rangers can give you excellent advice about choosing trails that match your skills, physical condition, and desired adventure. They can tell you how long it should take to hike a particular route so you can plan your day appropriately. You don't want to start out on a 16 hour trek if you're only planning a day hike. On the other hand, back packing with overnight stays can a wonderful adventure -- if you're properly prepared and equipped for it.
Know your surroundings. Be able to identify major landmarks. Know in what direction you would need to go to find your way back to civilization if you wander off the trail. It is WAY too easy to loose track of your route when hiking in unfamiliar forests. Believe me, all the trees look alike, especially when it starts to get dark! Add a measure of panic and you're really in trouble! Check out maps of the area before you start out. Just finding a road, power line, or railroad track won't do you much good if you don't know which direction to go once you find it. Civilization and safety may be just around the next bend -- if you go the right direction -- but could be hundreds of miles if you make the wrong choice.
Proper hiking equipment is essential for a safe and comfortable outing. While people do a lot of treking in canvas shoes, sturdy leather hiking boots are a better option. They protect your ankles from sprains and protect your feet from injury from sharp objects, snakes, and insects. Your boots should fit properly and be broken in BEFORE you begin your hike. Wear them around home for a while to break them in. If you can't walk at least a couple of miles around your neighborhood in your boots you have no business wearing them out on the trail. The right socks will make a world of difference in your hiking comfort. Sometimes you need a "sock system" -- multiple layers that protect from blisters, cushion your step, maintain the right temperature, and keep your feet dry. In warm weather you will want to avoid sweaty feet. Wear socks that will wick moisture away to help keep your feet dry. In cold weather you'll want to keep your feet warm. Wear insulated socks or even heated socks or add chemical "toe warmers". Dress appropriately for the weather. If it is cool when you start out, dress in layers so you can lighten up when either sun or exertion raises your body temperature. A light, long-sleeved shirt and long pants will protect you from sunburn and from scratches from bushes and branches. A broad-brimmed hat will help protect your head, face, and neck from sunburn and help keep you cool in hot weather. A walking stick can add stability in difficult sections and easy the overall effort, reducing fatigue. Given that any physical activity like hiking, horseback riding, or even riding an OHV will raise your body temperature, you should probably dress to you feel just a little cool before starting out. In cold weather, be sure to wear or bring along waterproof rain gear if there is any chance of rain. Nice, warm, cozy winter coats that work great in cold and snow are not always water resistant and you'll quickly find yourself freezing if your clothing gets wet from rain or melting snow.
Hydration is essential. Always wear a hydration pack like a Camelbak or carry a canteen or water bottle. Don't wait until you feel thirsty to take a drink. It is better to take frequent sips of water than to gulp down a whole bunch at once. You can begin hydrating yourself the day or evening before a hike by drinking plenty of water or sports drinks with a balanced electrolyte mix. Drinking copious amounts of water alone can lead to a condition sometimes known as water intoxication. Technically it is called hypnotatremia. What happens when you drink too much water is you flush out all the electrolytes (the chemicals your body needs) and then what you drink just ends up in your urine without doing you any good. Dark urine is usually a sign of dehydration telling you you need to drink more. Hypnoatremia is one time pale urine isn't a good sign and could be misleading.
Routine hazards are usually more of a nuisance than a danger, but you still want to avoid unnecessary discomfort and some minor problems, if left unattended, can lead to serious problems. Some typical examples are sunburn, splinters, and insect bites. Minor sunburn is painful but really bad sunburns can deliver 2nd and even 3rd degree burns. Spinters are painful and often casue infection. Insect bites are mostly annoying, with minor pain and itching, but some insects carry disease. Those pesky mosquitoes sometimes carry West Nile disease. Wear long sleeved shirts and long pants and use a good insect repellant to deter all the little beasties you can. "Bite sticks" and anti-itch creams can help relieve your suffering and some contain antiseptics to kill germs. Forget to bring some along? Ordinary household ammonia is the active ingredient in many insect bite products. Plain old tooth paste (not gel) can also help with the itch. Blisters on your hands and feet are quite common. Wear light weight gloves to protect your hands. Make sure your boots fit properly and wear the right "sock system" for the weather. Have some "moleskin" in your first aid kit to cover blisters if still get them. Carry at least a small (pocketsize) first aid kit and treat all injuries, even minor ones, quickly to avoid infection. Make sure you have a needle in your first aid kit to remove splinters. Another handy tool for splinters is a pair of ordinary nail clippers. The jaws can grip a splinter and pull it out or can be used to cut tough skin away so you can remove the splinter.
Back packs are handy for carrying supplies, clothing, etc. but don't over load them. A pack that is too heavy will dig into your shoulders and put a strain on your back and legs. Take care in how you arrange things in your pack. Put soft things like towels and clothing next to your back and hard things like camp stoves and flashlights on the other side. Having a pack with ample outside pockets will allow you to organize things to avoid losing track of small items while keeping frequently used gadgets close at hand.
Always bring along your first aid kit and basic survival tools. You never know what might happen and it is always better to have resources and not use them than to need them and not have them. You don't have to go overboard. A pocket first aid kit, a BIC lighter, and a good hunting knife should be adequate for most situations. I like to toss in a survival blanket, one of those aluminized mylar things that fold up to about the size of a handkerchief.
Always let someone (family member, neighbor, park ranger, local sheriff) know where you are going and when you expect to return. That way, if something should happen to you out on the trail someone will know where to come looking for you when you don't return. Even the most experienced hikers can have accidents or even become disoriented and lost. Leaving your plans with someone is not the sign of a a wimp, it is a sign of wisdom. Even Survivorman has a safety crew that will come looking for him if he doesn't show up at the designated rendezvous on time.
Happy hiking!
Access to many trail heads often involves hiking or walking along narrow rural roads where there are no sidewalks or pedestrian lanes. Sometimes this is the most dangerous part of the hike. When walking along a road with no pedestrian lanes, always walk facing traffic. That way you can see approaching vehicles and jump out of the way if they don't see you -- or don't have room to move over due to oncoming traffic. We have had two serious accidents in our rural neighbor hood in the last few years involving youth who were walking along a rural highway at night. One of our neighbors, a 14 year old boy, died at the scene of the first accident. He and his friend were walking along the right hand side of the road with their backs to traffic on their side of the road and didn't see the approaching car.
On the trails, watch where you're stepping. Avoid stepping over rocks or logs without knowing what is on the other side. Snakes and poisonous insects often hide under such obstacles and they can also mask dangerous holes that could cause you to sprain or break an ankle. Also be aware that prey travels on trails, predators travel beside trails. Hiking on a trail may make you look like prey to wild animals. That is not to say you should hike off the trail, just pay attention to your surroundings. Watch and listen for nearby movement that might indicate you are being stalked by a predator. Most wild animals are normally frightened of humans and will stay out of your way if you give them a chance. Let them know you're there by making some noise. Injured, starving, or sick animals may behave more aggressively, as will mothers with young if you appear to be a threat to their cubs.
One of the best ways to ensure your safety on the trails is to check in with the local ranger before striking out. From them you can learn about especially difficult sections of the trail you may need to watch out for and find out about recent animal activity. Rangers can give you excellent advice about choosing trails that match your skills, physical condition, and desired adventure. They can tell you how long it should take to hike a particular route so you can plan your day appropriately. You don't want to start out on a 16 hour trek if you're only planning a day hike. On the other hand, back packing with overnight stays can a wonderful adventure -- if you're properly prepared and equipped for it.
Know your surroundings. Be able to identify major landmarks. Know in what direction you would need to go to find your way back to civilization if you wander off the trail. It is WAY too easy to loose track of your route when hiking in unfamiliar forests. Believe me, all the trees look alike, especially when it starts to get dark! Add a measure of panic and you're really in trouble! Check out maps of the area before you start out. Just finding a road, power line, or railroad track won't do you much good if you don't know which direction to go once you find it. Civilization and safety may be just around the next bend -- if you go the right direction -- but could be hundreds of miles if you make the wrong choice.
Proper hiking equipment is essential for a safe and comfortable outing. While people do a lot of treking in canvas shoes, sturdy leather hiking boots are a better option. They protect your ankles from sprains and protect your feet from injury from sharp objects, snakes, and insects. Your boots should fit properly and be broken in BEFORE you begin your hike. Wear them around home for a while to break them in. If you can't walk at least a couple of miles around your neighborhood in your boots you have no business wearing them out on the trail. The right socks will make a world of difference in your hiking comfort. Sometimes you need a "sock system" -- multiple layers that protect from blisters, cushion your step, maintain the right temperature, and keep your feet dry. In warm weather you will want to avoid sweaty feet. Wear socks that will wick moisture away to help keep your feet dry. In cold weather you'll want to keep your feet warm. Wear insulated socks or even heated socks or add chemical "toe warmers". Dress appropriately for the weather. If it is cool when you start out, dress in layers so you can lighten up when either sun or exertion raises your body temperature. A light, long-sleeved shirt and long pants will protect you from sunburn and from scratches from bushes and branches. A broad-brimmed hat will help protect your head, face, and neck from sunburn and help keep you cool in hot weather. A walking stick can add stability in difficult sections and easy the overall effort, reducing fatigue. Given that any physical activity like hiking, horseback riding, or even riding an OHV will raise your body temperature, you should probably dress to you feel just a little cool before starting out. In cold weather, be sure to wear or bring along waterproof rain gear if there is any chance of rain. Nice, warm, cozy winter coats that work great in cold and snow are not always water resistant and you'll quickly find yourself freezing if your clothing gets wet from rain or melting snow.
Hydration is essential. Always wear a hydration pack like a Camelbak or carry a canteen or water bottle. Don't wait until you feel thirsty to take a drink. It is better to take frequent sips of water than to gulp down a whole bunch at once. You can begin hydrating yourself the day or evening before a hike by drinking plenty of water or sports drinks with a balanced electrolyte mix. Drinking copious amounts of water alone can lead to a condition sometimes known as water intoxication. Technically it is called hypnotatremia. What happens when you drink too much water is you flush out all the electrolytes (the chemicals your body needs) and then what you drink just ends up in your urine without doing you any good. Dark urine is usually a sign of dehydration telling you you need to drink more. Hypnoatremia is one time pale urine isn't a good sign and could be misleading.
Routine hazards are usually more of a nuisance than a danger, but you still want to avoid unnecessary discomfort and some minor problems, if left unattended, can lead to serious problems. Some typical examples are sunburn, splinters, and insect bites. Minor sunburn is painful but really bad sunburns can deliver 2nd and even 3rd degree burns. Spinters are painful and often casue infection. Insect bites are mostly annoying, with minor pain and itching, but some insects carry disease. Those pesky mosquitoes sometimes carry West Nile disease. Wear long sleeved shirts and long pants and use a good insect repellant to deter all the little beasties you can. "Bite sticks" and anti-itch creams can help relieve your suffering and some contain antiseptics to kill germs. Forget to bring some along? Ordinary household ammonia is the active ingredient in many insect bite products. Plain old tooth paste (not gel) can also help with the itch. Blisters on your hands and feet are quite common. Wear light weight gloves to protect your hands. Make sure your boots fit properly and wear the right "sock system" for the weather. Have some "moleskin" in your first aid kit to cover blisters if still get them. Carry at least a small (pocketsize) first aid kit and treat all injuries, even minor ones, quickly to avoid infection. Make sure you have a needle in your first aid kit to remove splinters. Another handy tool for splinters is a pair of ordinary nail clippers. The jaws can grip a splinter and pull it out or can be used to cut tough skin away so you can remove the splinter.
Back packs are handy for carrying supplies, clothing, etc. but don't over load them. A pack that is too heavy will dig into your shoulders and put a strain on your back and legs. Take care in how you arrange things in your pack. Put soft things like towels and clothing next to your back and hard things like camp stoves and flashlights on the other side. Having a pack with ample outside pockets will allow you to organize things to avoid losing track of small items while keeping frequently used gadgets close at hand.
Always bring along your first aid kit and basic survival tools. You never know what might happen and it is always better to have resources and not use them than to need them and not have them. You don't have to go overboard. A pocket first aid kit, a BIC lighter, and a good hunting knife should be adequate for most situations. I like to toss in a survival blanket, one of those aluminized mylar things that fold up to about the size of a handkerchief.
Always let someone (family member, neighbor, park ranger, local sheriff) know where you are going and when you expect to return. That way, if something should happen to you out on the trail someone will know where to come looking for you when you don't return. Even the most experienced hikers can have accidents or even become disoriented and lost. Leaving your plans with someone is not the sign of a a wimp, it is a sign of wisdom. Even Survivorman has a safety crew that will come looking for him if he doesn't show up at the designated rendezvous on time.
Happy hiking!
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Saturday, April 20, 2013
"Hoarding"
Our "all-knowing" government in Washington, D.C., has implemented steps to prevent what they have labeled "hoarding". Many of us have, for many years, used the term "emergency preparedness" to describe the practice of stockpiling some extra food, clothing, medical supplies and other necessities against times of need. Such preparations have been crucial for many people I know during the recent recession. Now Washington, D.C., having repeatedly failed to anticipate needs for emergency support adequately themselves (think Katrina and Sandy), has decided to criminalize those of us who have had the foresight to prepare to take care of ourselves. Already they have made it illegal to get extra prescription drugs and rumors that they are actively buying up ammunition to prevent law abiding citizens from obtaining it have sparked panic buying that is creating an artificial shortage. Severe restrictions on stockpiling food are also underway. It seems "they" want to make sure that "we" are completely and forever dependent on "them". Be aware that the time may come when the food you keep in your RV or camping supplies for convenience and for potential emergencies may be considered "hoarding". Some of this concern about hoarding is based on Executive Order 10998 issued by John F Kennedy in 1962! The current concerns focus on how this order might be interpreted and enforced by the present administration. FEMA guidelines suggest maintaining a 2 weeks supply of food so you should be safe at that level. Beyond that you may want to keep things pretty much to yourself, which you should do to prevent looting during a disaster anyway.
What can you do about it?
If you still want to store some extra food against times of need (man-made or natural disaster, loss of employment, societal collapse) start purchasing a little extra each week and setting it aside. Be sure to rotate your supplies so you use up the oldest stock first. Most budgets can accommodate an extra can or two of beans or tuna each week. Assuming you do your grocery shopping once a week, in a year you could have 50-100 cans of emergency food saved up, without creating any red flags or unwanted attention that bulk buying might generate. And, by the way, buy foods you will actually eat. Stocking up on rice cakes if you never eat them wouldn't do you much good. In fact, significant changes in diet can have extreme digestive and health as well as psychological consequences.
Medicines are another major issue. With legal limits on prescriptions, stocking up for extended emergencies is becoming problematic. Even hospitals, that have a very legitimate need to store medications, are facing shortages. One suggestion I've seen is to examine animal medications as alternatives. A lot of medications people depend on (insulin, blood thinners, etc) may be really hard to obtain and keep in sufficient quantities for long term emergencies, but some things that may offer life-saving treatments in a disaster, like antibiotics, are often available as animal medications. Veterinary penicillin can usually be purchased at farm and ranch stores without a prescription and could be better than nothing in long term disaster situation. Fish antibiotics are available without a prescription and in many cases exactly match human dosages. For example, Fish Mox is available, without prescription, in the same 250mg dosage used for human beings. It is even the same red and pink capsule and bears the same WC 731 identification. Several other aquatic antibiotics also have matching human counterparts. Be sure to examine the ingredients of any alternative medication to be sure it doesn't contain fillers or other contaminates that could be dangerous. Single-ingredient items are usually OK, but having not been certified by the FDA, might not have been manufactured under conditions fit for human consumption. Note: antibiotics should ONLY be administered when there are clear signs of infection. Overuse will damage "good" bacteria needed to sustain good health and will promote the development of strains of "super bugs" that are resistant to antibiotics. Another thing to consider is expiration dates. Army testing has shown that about 90% of medications are safe and effective for 15 years beyond their stated expiration date! That means, you don't always have to toss out our old meds the day they expire. However, watch for signs of deterioration, such as changes in color or texture, separation of components in liquids, chalking or flaking of pills, or unusual odors. When ordinary aspirin gets old it begins to give off a vinegar like smell. Personally, if aspirin that smelled like vinegar was the only pain killer I had, I'd still use it.
Ammunition is not something that is easy to find substitutes for. If you're into re-loading you may be able to extend your capacity. If not, take advantage of availability and make periodic small purchases as you can. If you are finding the particular ammunition you need in short supply, you might consider buying alternate firearms with better availability. In a long term TEOLAWKI scenario you may find yourself dependent on hunting for food. It may be a good idea to develop alternate skills, such as archery and trapping. Archery can be a good, fun activity to complement your RV and camping outings. It would be a good idea to develop some skills BEFORE you need them for survival. It takes some instruction and practice to become proficient. You can find lots of web sites that describe how to make simple deadfall or Paiute traps, but it takes some practice to get it down. Here is one instructional video for making deadfall traps. Even Les Stroud (Survivorman), with all his experience, sometimes has trouble with the delicate adjustments necessary to make them work. Unfortunately, in a disaster situation, people who are prepared may become targets of looters and others who failed to make proper preparations and you may have to defend yourself and your family from attack. Will you know how and will you have appropriate tools and mental attitude to do so? Knowing what to do and being prepared to do it aren't always the same thing.
Dangers of being prepared. The dangers of not being prepared are pretty obvious: lack of food, medicine, and fuel in a disaster situation could be life threatening. Unfortunately, being prepared could become life threatening too. If you are prepared -- and those around you who aren't know of it -- things could quickly reach the point where the unprepared will do ANYTHING to get what you have and they don't. You will either need to be prepared to share your emergency supplies or defend them. Keeping a low profile -- security by obscurity -- is one way to minimize potential problems. But if your neighbors see you thriving when they are starving, sooner or later they're going to come knocking.
Hoarding or wise preparedness? You decide!
What can you do about it?
If you still want to store some extra food against times of need (man-made or natural disaster, loss of employment, societal collapse) start purchasing a little extra each week and setting it aside. Be sure to rotate your supplies so you use up the oldest stock first. Most budgets can accommodate an extra can or two of beans or tuna each week. Assuming you do your grocery shopping once a week, in a year you could have 50-100 cans of emergency food saved up, without creating any red flags or unwanted attention that bulk buying might generate. And, by the way, buy foods you will actually eat. Stocking up on rice cakes if you never eat them wouldn't do you much good. In fact, significant changes in diet can have extreme digestive and health as well as psychological consequences.
Medicines are another major issue. With legal limits on prescriptions, stocking up for extended emergencies is becoming problematic. Even hospitals, that have a very legitimate need to store medications, are facing shortages. One suggestion I've seen is to examine animal medications as alternatives. A lot of medications people depend on (insulin, blood thinners, etc) may be really hard to obtain and keep in sufficient quantities for long term emergencies, but some things that may offer life-saving treatments in a disaster, like antibiotics, are often available as animal medications. Veterinary penicillin can usually be purchased at farm and ranch stores without a prescription and could be better than nothing in long term disaster situation. Fish antibiotics are available without a prescription and in many cases exactly match human dosages. For example, Fish Mox is available, without prescription, in the same 250mg dosage used for human beings. It is even the same red and pink capsule and bears the same WC 731 identification. Several other aquatic antibiotics also have matching human counterparts. Be sure to examine the ingredients of any alternative medication to be sure it doesn't contain fillers or other contaminates that could be dangerous. Single-ingredient items are usually OK, but having not been certified by the FDA, might not have been manufactured under conditions fit for human consumption. Note: antibiotics should ONLY be administered when there are clear signs of infection. Overuse will damage "good" bacteria needed to sustain good health and will promote the development of strains of "super bugs" that are resistant to antibiotics. Another thing to consider is expiration dates. Army testing has shown that about 90% of medications are safe and effective for 15 years beyond their stated expiration date! That means, you don't always have to toss out our old meds the day they expire. However, watch for signs of deterioration, such as changes in color or texture, separation of components in liquids, chalking or flaking of pills, or unusual odors. When ordinary aspirin gets old it begins to give off a vinegar like smell. Personally, if aspirin that smelled like vinegar was the only pain killer I had, I'd still use it.
Ammunition is not something that is easy to find substitutes for. If you're into re-loading you may be able to extend your capacity. If not, take advantage of availability and make periodic small purchases as you can. If you are finding the particular ammunition you need in short supply, you might consider buying alternate firearms with better availability. In a long term TEOLAWKI scenario you may find yourself dependent on hunting for food. It may be a good idea to develop alternate skills, such as archery and trapping. Archery can be a good, fun activity to complement your RV and camping outings. It would be a good idea to develop some skills BEFORE you need them for survival. It takes some instruction and practice to become proficient. You can find lots of web sites that describe how to make simple deadfall or Paiute traps, but it takes some practice to get it down. Here is one instructional video for making deadfall traps. Even Les Stroud (Survivorman), with all his experience, sometimes has trouble with the delicate adjustments necessary to make them work. Unfortunately, in a disaster situation, people who are prepared may become targets of looters and others who failed to make proper preparations and you may have to defend yourself and your family from attack. Will you know how and will you have appropriate tools and mental attitude to do so? Knowing what to do and being prepared to do it aren't always the same thing.
Dangers of being prepared. The dangers of not being prepared are pretty obvious: lack of food, medicine, and fuel in a disaster situation could be life threatening. Unfortunately, being prepared could become life threatening too. If you are prepared -- and those around you who aren't know of it -- things could quickly reach the point where the unprepared will do ANYTHING to get what you have and they don't. You will either need to be prepared to share your emergency supplies or defend them. Keeping a low profile -- security by obscurity -- is one way to minimize potential problems. But if your neighbors see you thriving when they are starving, sooner or later they're going to come knocking.
Hoarding or wise preparedness? You decide!
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Friday, April 5, 2013
Some Unusual but Useful Camping Skills
Here are some things we've run into during our camping adventures that you might not think you'll ever encounter. They are not planned or even routine happenings that you would normally associate with camping. However, given the remote locations we all enjoy for our outdoor activities, you might run into one or more of these situations and it would be good to be at least mentally prepared and have some idea what do do.
Wildfires can happen in just about any remote area. Whether ignited by lightning, careless campers, or inconsiderate smokers, fire can quickly get out of hand. One large fire in southern California was started by a cigarette thrown from a car on the 101 Freeway. It happened smack in front of a fire station and one of the firefighters witnessed the act. By the time they could get their equipment to the other side of the freeway the fire was already out of control. It then burned all the way through the mountains to the ocean, blackening more than 55,000 acres near Malibu. If you had been among the campers in the area near the fire, you would have either been evacuated or conscripted to help fight the fire. Conscription is not a frequent thing, but in an emergency, campers and even passing motorists have been known to to be "invited" to join the fire lines in some places. What would you do if you found yourself in a wildfire situation?
First of all, be vigilant. You always want to monitor the weather. If there is lightning in the area, it could start a fire. Watch the skies for excessive smoke. Brush fires usually put out copious amounts of white smoke. The smoke from some forest fires may be darker, depending on the type of trees and other foliage and how dry they are. If you see a lot of smoke, start making preparations to evacuate. If you wait until law enforcement comes around telling you to clear out, you may not have time to pack up. Always have an evacuation route in mind. Pay attention to access roads and alternate routes as you approach your campground. Consider where you will go if the primary access road is blocked.
Park for easy exit. The parking in many forest campgrounds is often narrow and deep. If you have a trailer it is often tempting to pull straight into the camp site and worry about backing out when the time comes. However, if, when the time comes, it is an emergency evacuation, getting out will be easier if you are already headed out. Taking the time to back into your spot when you arrive takes some discipline and commitment but will pay off if you need a quick get away. Wildfire and flood are two of the most frequent local emergencies that would trigger evacuation, but other, personal emergencies may also dictate a quick exit. Illness or injury of someone in your party or some kind of problem at home may dictate a speedy escape.
If you are camped in an area threatened by wildfire, take precautions to protect yourself, your companions, and your equipment. Blowing embers from a nearby fire can ignite even "flame resistant" tents and canopies. Pack up any flammable items before the fire gets close and begin planning your escape routes. Gather in any members of your group or pets and seek a safe refuge from approaching flames. RVs provide some protection but are still susceptible to catching fire if the flames get close enough.
If you do get involved with a fire fighting effort, will you know what to do? THE most important thing to keep in mind is your own safety. Placing yourself in danger only adds to the problem, so pay close attention to the instructions of rangers, law enforcement, and firefighters. Fire needs three things to burn: fuel, oxygen, and heat. Take away any one of those and the fire will stop. Cutting fire breaks is one way firefighters control wildfires -- it removes the fuel. Small fires, like spot fires from blowing embers, can sometimes be put out by shoveling dirt on them. That smothers the flames (removes the oxygen). Fire often behaves in unpredictable ways, but experienced firefighters know how to recognize certain conditions that sometimes give them some indication of what the fire is about to do. Watch and listen to them! Don't try to just guess. Changes in the color of smoke and the direction the fire is moving can be significant but unless you are an experienced firefighter you won't be able to recognize the signs.
Many of the precautions described for wildfires also apply to flash floods. Flash floods can occur even if it hasn't been raining where you are. Flash floods can rush down dry canyons from rain in the mountains many miles away and the results can be devastating. Avoid camping in low-lying areas or sand washes that may be subjected to flooding. Make sure you have a clear escape route in mind. Watch the weather and pack up ahead of time.
Loose livestock have surprised more than one camper. Some of the public lands where we camp are also grazing lands for sheep and cattle. Try to avoid disturbing grazing animals. If they stampede they can be very dangerous, causing a lot of destruction and serious injuries. NEVER chase them with your OHV! Grazing livestock is someone's livelihood and chasing them may cause injury or stress that is harmful. The act of chasing them may also damage critical grasslands on which they depend for food. Stay on designated trails. If livestock wanders into your campsite you may be able to shoo them away safely if there aren't too many of them. Never approach them closely or make threatening moves that may cause them to charge you. Even something as small as a sheep is surprisingly strong and can do a lot of damage. You may recall the scene in City Slickers where Billy Crystal ropes a calf and then asks the old cowboy "what is wrong with that?" The cowboy shoots off his gun and the calf takes off, dragging Billy Crystal behind him. It is best to have multiple people working together to chase livestock back where they belong. To encourage them to go where you want them to go, try to get in front of them or to the side opposite of where you are trying to direct them. Wave your arms or a branch or rope and shout. They should move away from you. Don't worry about wearing red. The old myth is that bulls charge red flags. Turns out they are color blind, so the color doesn't matter, the movement does. BTW, running from an animal usually encourages it to chase you. Sometimes standing still or moving slowly and deliberately in a safe direction is a better tactic.
Bears and other wild animals are frequent visitors in many popular campgrounds. I'm sure we all remember Yogi Bear and his obsession with picnic baskets. Unfortunately, unthinking people who feed the bears, create problems for the rest of us and for the bears. In the first place, table scraps are not proper nutrition for bears, so their health is compromised. Secondly, feeding them tends to make them dependent on human handouts. When the handouts get scarce, the bears starve -- and become dangerous. Bears have been known to even break into cars to get to food inside. Other wild animals, like racoons, because they are smaller, are usually thought to be less dangerous, but they can still do a lot of damage when threatened and often carry diseases (like rabies) that you DON'T want to get. Mountain lions get a lot of bad press when one wanders into a campground or suburban area, but they are usually rather shy creatures. If one does approach human beings, it is an indication of desperation and they are likely to be dangerous. Give ALL wild animals wide berth, especially a mother and her young. There is a lot written about the proper response to coming face to face with wild animals. Should you run? Should you make a lot of noise? Should you remain still? Depending on the type of animal, the situation, and who is giving the advice, you will see all of these actions recommended. To KNOW what to do, research the kinds of animals that inhabit areas you will be visiting and how to deal with them. Check with local rangers about the level of threat and best response if you should encounter unexpected 4-legged guests. You're on your own for 2-legged trespassers.
Dust storms are fairly common in desert areas or even areas near farms where winds can pick up loose dirt from plowed fields. It is a good idea to know what to do if you are caught in a dust storm. First of all, if you're traveling, the best action is to seek shelter. As the dust reduces visibility your risk of an accident increased dramatically, whether you're on the highway or on the trails on your OHV. At least slow down. If you can't see where you're going, find a safe place to pull over out of traffic and wait it out. Don't stop in the road or trail or you'll just become an obstacle for other travelers to run into. Use a bandana or other piece of clothing to cover your nose and mouth to filter as much dust as you can out of the air you're breathing. If you're in camp, close all the windows in your tent or RV and go inside. Make sure all your equipment is secured so it doesn't blow away. Cover any sensitive equipment with tarps and protect the air intake on vehicles to prevent clogging air filters.
Obnoxious neighbors. First of all, make sure YOU are not an obnoxious neighbor. The most frequent camper complaints are noise and trespassing. Keep your stuff, including sounds, smoke, and cooking odors from intruding into someone else's space whenever you can. If smoke from your campfire is blowing smack into someone else's space, minimize or douse your fire. If you are experiencing problems with another camper you have three choices: 1) endure it 2) report them to the campground host or manager or 3) confront the offenders yourself. Enduring it not a comfortable solution but is often the one with the least risk. Reporting them to the host can sometimes solve the immediate problem but all too often creates hard feelings that continue to generate issues. No one likes a tattle tail. Diplomatically confronting the offenders is usually your best bet. Sometimes they simply didn't realize they were causing a problem and are willing to make adjustments. I once had a bunch of teen agers arrive at primitive camp ground (no host) about 3:00 am. They set up right next to my motorhome, car doors wide open and steros blaring at full volume while they blithely deployed bright lights and began setting up their camp. After about a half an hour of enduring the situation I finally go up and got dressed and approached them. Though by then I was fuming, I did my best to use a diplomatic approach. When I explained they were disturbing me and my family they apologized, turned down the music, and redirected their lights. I think I was lucky. Loud groups often have already begun to form a kind of mob mentality that has a life of its own, independent of the normal behavior of the individuals. On rare occasions we had some loud party types join one of our family-oriented Desert Rat outings in the Mojave Desert. We would usually ask whoever invited them to ask them to hold it down and usually that worked pretty well without causing hard feelings. In most cases people who really wanted to party all night long found other groups to go out with.
Never be surprised!
Wildfires can happen in just about any remote area. Whether ignited by lightning, careless campers, or inconsiderate smokers, fire can quickly get out of hand. One large fire in southern California was started by a cigarette thrown from a car on the 101 Freeway. It happened smack in front of a fire station and one of the firefighters witnessed the act. By the time they could get their equipment to the other side of the freeway the fire was already out of control. It then burned all the way through the mountains to the ocean, blackening more than 55,000 acres near Malibu. If you had been among the campers in the area near the fire, you would have either been evacuated or conscripted to help fight the fire. Conscription is not a frequent thing, but in an emergency, campers and even passing motorists have been known to to be "invited" to join the fire lines in some places. What would you do if you found yourself in a wildfire situation?
First of all, be vigilant. You always want to monitor the weather. If there is lightning in the area, it could start a fire. Watch the skies for excessive smoke. Brush fires usually put out copious amounts of white smoke. The smoke from some forest fires may be darker, depending on the type of trees and other foliage and how dry they are. If you see a lot of smoke, start making preparations to evacuate. If you wait until law enforcement comes around telling you to clear out, you may not have time to pack up. Always have an evacuation route in mind. Pay attention to access roads and alternate routes as you approach your campground. Consider where you will go if the primary access road is blocked.
Park for easy exit. The parking in many forest campgrounds is often narrow and deep. If you have a trailer it is often tempting to pull straight into the camp site and worry about backing out when the time comes. However, if, when the time comes, it is an emergency evacuation, getting out will be easier if you are already headed out. Taking the time to back into your spot when you arrive takes some discipline and commitment but will pay off if you need a quick get away. Wildfire and flood are two of the most frequent local emergencies that would trigger evacuation, but other, personal emergencies may also dictate a quick exit. Illness or injury of someone in your party or some kind of problem at home may dictate a speedy escape.
If you are camped in an area threatened by wildfire, take precautions to protect yourself, your companions, and your equipment. Blowing embers from a nearby fire can ignite even "flame resistant" tents and canopies. Pack up any flammable items before the fire gets close and begin planning your escape routes. Gather in any members of your group or pets and seek a safe refuge from approaching flames. RVs provide some protection but are still susceptible to catching fire if the flames get close enough.
If you do get involved with a fire fighting effort, will you know what to do? THE most important thing to keep in mind is your own safety. Placing yourself in danger only adds to the problem, so pay close attention to the instructions of rangers, law enforcement, and firefighters. Fire needs three things to burn: fuel, oxygen, and heat. Take away any one of those and the fire will stop. Cutting fire breaks is one way firefighters control wildfires -- it removes the fuel. Small fires, like spot fires from blowing embers, can sometimes be put out by shoveling dirt on them. That smothers the flames (removes the oxygen). Fire often behaves in unpredictable ways, but experienced firefighters know how to recognize certain conditions that sometimes give them some indication of what the fire is about to do. Watch and listen to them! Don't try to just guess. Changes in the color of smoke and the direction the fire is moving can be significant but unless you are an experienced firefighter you won't be able to recognize the signs.
Many of the precautions described for wildfires also apply to flash floods. Flash floods can occur even if it hasn't been raining where you are. Flash floods can rush down dry canyons from rain in the mountains many miles away and the results can be devastating. Avoid camping in low-lying areas or sand washes that may be subjected to flooding. Make sure you have a clear escape route in mind. Watch the weather and pack up ahead of time.
Loose livestock have surprised more than one camper. Some of the public lands where we camp are also grazing lands for sheep and cattle. Try to avoid disturbing grazing animals. If they stampede they can be very dangerous, causing a lot of destruction and serious injuries. NEVER chase them with your OHV! Grazing livestock is someone's livelihood and chasing them may cause injury or stress that is harmful. The act of chasing them may also damage critical grasslands on which they depend for food. Stay on designated trails. If livestock wanders into your campsite you may be able to shoo them away safely if there aren't too many of them. Never approach them closely or make threatening moves that may cause them to charge you. Even something as small as a sheep is surprisingly strong and can do a lot of damage. You may recall the scene in City Slickers where Billy Crystal ropes a calf and then asks the old cowboy "what is wrong with that?" The cowboy shoots off his gun and the calf takes off, dragging Billy Crystal behind him. It is best to have multiple people working together to chase livestock back where they belong. To encourage them to go where you want them to go, try to get in front of them or to the side opposite of where you are trying to direct them. Wave your arms or a branch or rope and shout. They should move away from you. Don't worry about wearing red. The old myth is that bulls charge red flags. Turns out they are color blind, so the color doesn't matter, the movement does. BTW, running from an animal usually encourages it to chase you. Sometimes standing still or moving slowly and deliberately in a safe direction is a better tactic.
Bears and other wild animals are frequent visitors in many popular campgrounds. I'm sure we all remember Yogi Bear and his obsession with picnic baskets. Unfortunately, unthinking people who feed the bears, create problems for the rest of us and for the bears. In the first place, table scraps are not proper nutrition for bears, so their health is compromised. Secondly, feeding them tends to make them dependent on human handouts. When the handouts get scarce, the bears starve -- and become dangerous. Bears have been known to even break into cars to get to food inside. Other wild animals, like racoons, because they are smaller, are usually thought to be less dangerous, but they can still do a lot of damage when threatened and often carry diseases (like rabies) that you DON'T want to get. Mountain lions get a lot of bad press when one wanders into a campground or suburban area, but they are usually rather shy creatures. If one does approach human beings, it is an indication of desperation and they are likely to be dangerous. Give ALL wild animals wide berth, especially a mother and her young. There is a lot written about the proper response to coming face to face with wild animals. Should you run? Should you make a lot of noise? Should you remain still? Depending on the type of animal, the situation, and who is giving the advice, you will see all of these actions recommended. To KNOW what to do, research the kinds of animals that inhabit areas you will be visiting and how to deal with them. Check with local rangers about the level of threat and best response if you should encounter unexpected 4-legged guests. You're on your own for 2-legged trespassers.
Dust storms are fairly common in desert areas or even areas near farms where winds can pick up loose dirt from plowed fields. It is a good idea to know what to do if you are caught in a dust storm. First of all, if you're traveling, the best action is to seek shelter. As the dust reduces visibility your risk of an accident increased dramatically, whether you're on the highway or on the trails on your OHV. At least slow down. If you can't see where you're going, find a safe place to pull over out of traffic and wait it out. Don't stop in the road or trail or you'll just become an obstacle for other travelers to run into. Use a bandana or other piece of clothing to cover your nose and mouth to filter as much dust as you can out of the air you're breathing. If you're in camp, close all the windows in your tent or RV and go inside. Make sure all your equipment is secured so it doesn't blow away. Cover any sensitive equipment with tarps and protect the air intake on vehicles to prevent clogging air filters.
Obnoxious neighbors. First of all, make sure YOU are not an obnoxious neighbor. The most frequent camper complaints are noise and trespassing. Keep your stuff, including sounds, smoke, and cooking odors from intruding into someone else's space whenever you can. If smoke from your campfire is blowing smack into someone else's space, minimize or douse your fire. If you are experiencing problems with another camper you have three choices: 1) endure it 2) report them to the campground host or manager or 3) confront the offenders yourself. Enduring it not a comfortable solution but is often the one with the least risk. Reporting them to the host can sometimes solve the immediate problem but all too often creates hard feelings that continue to generate issues. No one likes a tattle tail. Diplomatically confronting the offenders is usually your best bet. Sometimes they simply didn't realize they were causing a problem and are willing to make adjustments. I once had a bunch of teen agers arrive at primitive camp ground (no host) about 3:00 am. They set up right next to my motorhome, car doors wide open and steros blaring at full volume while they blithely deployed bright lights and began setting up their camp. After about a half an hour of enduring the situation I finally go up and got dressed and approached them. Though by then I was fuming, I did my best to use a diplomatic approach. When I explained they were disturbing me and my family they apologized, turned down the music, and redirected their lights. I think I was lucky. Loud groups often have already begun to form a kind of mob mentality that has a life of its own, independent of the normal behavior of the individuals. On rare occasions we had some loud party types join one of our family-oriented Desert Rat outings in the Mojave Desert. We would usually ask whoever invited them to ask them to hold it down and usually that worked pretty well without causing hard feelings. In most cases people who really wanted to party all night long found other groups to go out with.
Never be surprised!
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Wednesday, April 3, 2013
Spring Cleaning -- Again
Its finally that time of the year again. The winter snow has melted, trees and shrubs are starting to bud, and campers are getting anxious to get away. No matter how carefully you stored your equipment and gear at the end of the last season, you'll need to invest a little time preparing for this year's camping adventures. In this post we'll go over some reminders. For more detail, see the previous post on Spring Cleaning.
Tents, sleeping bags, and other camping equipment that has been stored needs to be unpacked and inspected. Even in the cleanest residential environments, vermin, mold, and insects can take their toll on stored gear. If there was a little moisture left in tent or sleeping bag fabric when it was rolled up there is a good chance it will have turned into the most interesting (and unpleasant) smell. Unroll your tents, awnings, canopies, sleeping bags, and patio mats and make sure they are clean and free from foul stains and odors. Most fabrics can be cleaned with mild household cleaner, but take care not to over soak them. Have your sleeping bags dry cleaned. Even if they may say they can be machine washed, dry cleaning will be less likely to cause the filling to mat and clump. Tents may need to be re-waterproofed after cleaning with detergents. Spray on waterproofing like "Camp Dry" is the easiest way to do this.
Stoves, lanterns, and heaters need to be inspected and cleaned. Check all fuel connections to make sure there are no leaks. Clean both the inside and the outside of the glass globe on your lanterns. Clean the fuel ports around the burners on your stoves. Supply lines for propane appliances may have accumulated spider webs. Spiders seem to like propane and are prone to build webs in the plumbing of stoves, lanterns, and BBQs. You would think the pressure would simply blow the webs away, but they are surprisingly strong and adhere very well to the plumbing. Take care cleaning the orifices in propane burners. Avoid shoving needles into them as they can damage the metal and alter the size and shape of the orifice. Better to remove them and soak them in hot soapy water and blow them out with a blast of compressed air.
If you have any kind of RV you will need to de-winterize it -- unless you are fortunate enough to live in the sun belt where winterization isn't necessary. Flush the RV antifreeze from all plumbing lines and fixtures. You may need to clean the system with a diluted bleach solution to remove residual antifreeze tastes and any other odors that may have developed in storage. Follow up this cleansing by rinsing with a baking soda solution and you're system will be ready to deliver great tasting water -- if you fill it with good water to begin with. If you have a portable hot water system you use tent camping, you'll need to de-winterize in a similar fashion. Other post-storage tasks include inspecting the unit for any winter damage from elements, insects, or vermin. Check all tires, belts, and hoses and verify proper fluid levels. Now is a good time to do a thorough cleaning and detailing inside and out. Not only will your rig look nicer for the upcoming season, you will have a better chance of detecting any problems that might have gotten started so you can deal with them BEFORE you hit the road. Be sure to inspect all the exterior seams and joints around windows and doors where temperature changes may have damaged the sealants.
Provisions need to be inspected, inventoried, and replenished. Check for and replace damaged or leaking containers, outdated, or used up items. Be sure to check basic food items, cleaning supplies, medical supplies, and personal hygiene items.
Tools and utensils need to be inspected and inventoried. Missing or damaged items should be replaced. Make sure all cutting tools (knives, axes, saws) are clean and sharp. Check your kitchen drawers and your tool box to make sure anything you might have used last season or may have borrowed over the winter has been returned to is rightful place.
Inspect your camping wardrobe. Look for old tears or stains or new damage that needs to be taken care of. Insects may have found a home in your clothing over the winter. Clothing that has been in storage over the winter, in your RV or your camp bins, may need to be laundered or at least freshened before use.
Check your checklists. Use existing checklists to go over your equipment to ensure you are ready for the new camping season. Now is also a good time to review and update your checklists. You may find you have things on the list that are no longer needed or that you found things during last year's activities that were missing from the checklist. Hopefully you took care of the "to do" list from your last outing when you got home, but if it is still hanging around waiting for attention, go down THAT list and make sure you bring everything up to date. Re-creating the same list again this year will be very frustrating and waste a lot of time and energy.
Review your plans for this season. Will you be repeating many or even all of last year's trips? If not, are there any items related to deleted trips you can take out and leave home? Are there new places or events or activities you want to include that may require additional equipment or supplies? Did you have everything you needed for all of your trips last year? Will any of this year's planned activities require additional planning, equipment, or preparation?
Investing a little time now will ensure a much more enjoyable and frustration-free season. Making sure everything is ready to go will give you confidence and allow you to enjoy your outdoor time instead of spending it worrying, making repairs or "making do".
Tents, sleeping bags, and other camping equipment that has been stored needs to be unpacked and inspected. Even in the cleanest residential environments, vermin, mold, and insects can take their toll on stored gear. If there was a little moisture left in tent or sleeping bag fabric when it was rolled up there is a good chance it will have turned into the most interesting (and unpleasant) smell. Unroll your tents, awnings, canopies, sleeping bags, and patio mats and make sure they are clean and free from foul stains and odors. Most fabrics can be cleaned with mild household cleaner, but take care not to over soak them. Have your sleeping bags dry cleaned. Even if they may say they can be machine washed, dry cleaning will be less likely to cause the filling to mat and clump. Tents may need to be re-waterproofed after cleaning with detergents. Spray on waterproofing like "Camp Dry" is the easiest way to do this.
Stoves, lanterns, and heaters need to be inspected and cleaned. Check all fuel connections to make sure there are no leaks. Clean both the inside and the outside of the glass globe on your lanterns. Clean the fuel ports around the burners on your stoves. Supply lines for propane appliances may have accumulated spider webs. Spiders seem to like propane and are prone to build webs in the plumbing of stoves, lanterns, and BBQs. You would think the pressure would simply blow the webs away, but they are surprisingly strong and adhere very well to the plumbing. Take care cleaning the orifices in propane burners. Avoid shoving needles into them as they can damage the metal and alter the size and shape of the orifice. Better to remove them and soak them in hot soapy water and blow them out with a blast of compressed air.
If you have any kind of RV you will need to de-winterize it -- unless you are fortunate enough to live in the sun belt where winterization isn't necessary. Flush the RV antifreeze from all plumbing lines and fixtures. You may need to clean the system with a diluted bleach solution to remove residual antifreeze tastes and any other odors that may have developed in storage. Follow up this cleansing by rinsing with a baking soda solution and you're system will be ready to deliver great tasting water -- if you fill it with good water to begin with. If you have a portable hot water system you use tent camping, you'll need to de-winterize in a similar fashion. Other post-storage tasks include inspecting the unit for any winter damage from elements, insects, or vermin. Check all tires, belts, and hoses and verify proper fluid levels. Now is a good time to do a thorough cleaning and detailing inside and out. Not only will your rig look nicer for the upcoming season, you will have a better chance of detecting any problems that might have gotten started so you can deal with them BEFORE you hit the road. Be sure to inspect all the exterior seams and joints around windows and doors where temperature changes may have damaged the sealants.
Provisions need to be inspected, inventoried, and replenished. Check for and replace damaged or leaking containers, outdated, or used up items. Be sure to check basic food items, cleaning supplies, medical supplies, and personal hygiene items.
Tools and utensils need to be inspected and inventoried. Missing or damaged items should be replaced. Make sure all cutting tools (knives, axes, saws) are clean and sharp. Check your kitchen drawers and your tool box to make sure anything you might have used last season or may have borrowed over the winter has been returned to is rightful place.
Inspect your camping wardrobe. Look for old tears or stains or new damage that needs to be taken care of. Insects may have found a home in your clothing over the winter. Clothing that has been in storage over the winter, in your RV or your camp bins, may need to be laundered or at least freshened before use.
Check your checklists. Use existing checklists to go over your equipment to ensure you are ready for the new camping season. Now is also a good time to review and update your checklists. You may find you have things on the list that are no longer needed or that you found things during last year's activities that were missing from the checklist. Hopefully you took care of the "to do" list from your last outing when you got home, but if it is still hanging around waiting for attention, go down THAT list and make sure you bring everything up to date. Re-creating the same list again this year will be very frustrating and waste a lot of time and energy.
Review your plans for this season. Will you be repeating many or even all of last year's trips? If not, are there any items related to deleted trips you can take out and leave home? Are there new places or events or activities you want to include that may require additional equipment or supplies? Did you have everything you needed for all of your trips last year? Will any of this year's planned activities require additional planning, equipment, or preparation?
Investing a little time now will ensure a much more enjoyable and frustration-free season. Making sure everything is ready to go will give you confidence and allow you to enjoy your outdoor time instead of spending it worrying, making repairs or "making do".
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Wednesday, February 20, 2013
Portable Canopies
Having a big patio awning on your RV is convenient and provides instant shade and protection from light rain. For tent camping, or RVs without awnings, a standalone canopy can offer some of the same advantages at a fraction of the cost. A stand alone canopy can also be set up over your picnic table, so you might want one even if you do have a nice patio awning on your RV.
Standard canopies come in a variety of sizes. They are essentially like tents without walls. They usually have at least one center pole plus 4 corner poles and require guy ropes at each corner to hold them in place. A "dining fly" is a kind of special version of a canopy. Typically about 12x12 or 16x16, they are designed to be used over picnic tables -- hence the name "dining fly". They are light weight, inexpensive and pretty easy to set up and take down. They work well for shade and can provide some protection from light rain but usually aren't suited to stormier weather. About the only disadvantage to them are the guy ropes, which can be a tripping hazard. You might want to tie bright colored ribbons onto the ropes to make them easier to see and minimize people tripping over them, which can damage both the canopy and the tripee!
EZ-ups are self contained canopies with the fabric often attached to the folding framework. They are free-standing and only require ropes in windy conditions. They usually don't have any kind of center poles so they're ideal for use where you need the interior free of obstructions. They can be set up by one person but it is usually easier if you have two or more people to lift them into position so all sides come up at the same time. They use a folding framework like those on scissor-lift to give create a rigid top frame. Be careful not to get your fingers caught in any of the moving parts! The legs telescope to adjust the height. This style canopy is usually pretty sturdy and will stand up to more use than light weight canopies and dining flies. Because of the added infrastructure, you can expect to pay more for them than simple canopies and they'll be heavier and bulkier to transport. EZ-ups make excellent booths for organizations or vendors and can be imprinted with club/family/company names.
Sidewalls are available or can be fabricated for use with almost any canopy, turning it into an outdoor room. Custom made panels will fit and look the best but ordinary, inexpensive tarps can often be used as privacy panels and as extra weather protection. Netting can be used to keep out insects or to provide for partial shade without completely blocking the view. For one-time or occasional use, simply tie the tarp to the framework of the canopy or string a rope from pole to pole to anchor the tarp to. If you use it frequently you may want to add straps or hooks or eyelets or velcro fasteners to make is easier and faster to install and remove the side walls.
Fires or cooking under canopies is generally not a good idea. Even using your camp stove or BBQ can generate enough heat under the canopy to damage it or create a fire hazard. Smoke and other cooking fumes may stain or otherwise cling to the inside of the canopy, creating ugly colors and unpleasant smells. If you REALLY need to cook under a canopy to get out of the weather, stay close to the edge and make sure you have adequate overhead and lateral clearance between the cooking appliance and any fabric to avoid a fire hazard. Try to set up so any prevailing breezes will carry smoke out from under the canopy and not back into your protected living area.
Screen rooms are a nice variation of a canopy, providing protection against marauding insects. They can make an afternoon or evening in the outdoors more pleasant and make a good hot weather bedroom, protected from dew and insects, but with plenty of fresh air. You can find back yard gazebos at home centers but they will probably be to big and heavy to easily transport for camping. Canopies and screen rooms designed for camping will be lighter weight and easier to transport. You can buy -- or make -- panels to convert your RV awning into a screen room. Commercial panels often are designed to provide some sun protection as well, creating a cooler space under the awning without completely blocking the view.
Portable canopies are excellent for setting up booths at outdoor events. Done right they not only provide protection for displays and occupants, they can be in and of themselves a billboard for the organization and the products and services offered. Canopies with custom imprinted logos and signage can be fairly expensive, but if you're artistic, you might stencil on your own designs or hang banners on the canopy for branding. Some typical uses include sign up tables, information booths, and marketing of merchandise. Of course, they are excellent for family gatherings, especially if you sudden rain catches you by surprise!
Any way you cut it, canopies add comfort and convenience to just about any camping activity. Even though I have permanently mounted awnings on both my motorhome and my enclosed motorcycle trailer, I carry a light weight awning for additional flexibility and extra shade when needed.
Cover up!
Standard canopies come in a variety of sizes. They are essentially like tents without walls. They usually have at least one center pole plus 4 corner poles and require guy ropes at each corner to hold them in place. A "dining fly" is a kind of special version of a canopy. Typically about 12x12 or 16x16, they are designed to be used over picnic tables -- hence the name "dining fly". They are light weight, inexpensive and pretty easy to set up and take down. They work well for shade and can provide some protection from light rain but usually aren't suited to stormier weather. About the only disadvantage to them are the guy ropes, which can be a tripping hazard. You might want to tie bright colored ribbons onto the ropes to make them easier to see and minimize people tripping over them, which can damage both the canopy and the tripee!
EZ-ups are self contained canopies with the fabric often attached to the folding framework. They are free-standing and only require ropes in windy conditions. They usually don't have any kind of center poles so they're ideal for use where you need the interior free of obstructions. They can be set up by one person but it is usually easier if you have two or more people to lift them into position so all sides come up at the same time. They use a folding framework like those on scissor-lift to give create a rigid top frame. Be careful not to get your fingers caught in any of the moving parts! The legs telescope to adjust the height. This style canopy is usually pretty sturdy and will stand up to more use than light weight canopies and dining flies. Because of the added infrastructure, you can expect to pay more for them than simple canopies and they'll be heavier and bulkier to transport. EZ-ups make excellent booths for organizations or vendors and can be imprinted with club/family/company names.
Sidewalls are available or can be fabricated for use with almost any canopy, turning it into an outdoor room. Custom made panels will fit and look the best but ordinary, inexpensive tarps can often be used as privacy panels and as extra weather protection. Netting can be used to keep out insects or to provide for partial shade without completely blocking the view. For one-time or occasional use, simply tie the tarp to the framework of the canopy or string a rope from pole to pole to anchor the tarp to. If you use it frequently you may want to add straps or hooks or eyelets or velcro fasteners to make is easier and faster to install and remove the side walls.
Fires or cooking under canopies is generally not a good idea. Even using your camp stove or BBQ can generate enough heat under the canopy to damage it or create a fire hazard. Smoke and other cooking fumes may stain or otherwise cling to the inside of the canopy, creating ugly colors and unpleasant smells. If you REALLY need to cook under a canopy to get out of the weather, stay close to the edge and make sure you have adequate overhead and lateral clearance between the cooking appliance and any fabric to avoid a fire hazard. Try to set up so any prevailing breezes will carry smoke out from under the canopy and not back into your protected living area.
Screen rooms are a nice variation of a canopy, providing protection against marauding insects. They can make an afternoon or evening in the outdoors more pleasant and make a good hot weather bedroom, protected from dew and insects, but with plenty of fresh air. You can find back yard gazebos at home centers but they will probably be to big and heavy to easily transport for camping. Canopies and screen rooms designed for camping will be lighter weight and easier to transport. You can buy -- or make -- panels to convert your RV awning into a screen room. Commercial panels often are designed to provide some sun protection as well, creating a cooler space under the awning without completely blocking the view.
Portable canopies are excellent for setting up booths at outdoor events. Done right they not only provide protection for displays and occupants, they can be in and of themselves a billboard for the organization and the products and services offered. Canopies with custom imprinted logos and signage can be fairly expensive, but if you're artistic, you might stencil on your own designs or hang banners on the canopy for branding. Some typical uses include sign up tables, information booths, and marketing of merchandise. Of course, they are excellent for family gatherings, especially if you sudden rain catches you by surprise!
Any way you cut it, canopies add comfort and convenience to just about any camping activity. Even though I have permanently mounted awnings on both my motorhome and my enclosed motorcycle trailer, I carry a light weight awning for additional flexibility and extra shade when needed.
Cover up!
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