Winterization -- Again!

Yes, there already is a post on winterization.   So this is mostly just a reminder.   If you live an area that gets freezing temperatures you'll need to winterize your RV and camping equipment BEFORE the freezing weather hits every year.  You should already be started on or planning for winterization by the time you get your first frost.  Chances are you'll still have little time before consistent freezing temperatures will cause damage in your RV, but don't wait too long!

Tent campers will probably have little winterization to do, unless you have a portable hot water system or a Porta-potty.   These WILL need to be drained and winterized just like RV water systems or stored in a heated area where they won't freeze.  Also check any food and medications you have in your camp kit and make sure they are safely stored so they won't freeze.  Otherwise, if you properly stored your stuff after your last outing, you should be good to go.   Make sure your sleeping bags aren't tightly rolled and that your tents and tarps are dry.  Store sleeping bags loosely in large stuff sacks or hang them up so the filling doesn't get compacted.

RV water systems and holding tanks will need to be drained and RV antifreeze added to protect critical components from freezing.   Completely drain your fresh water tank and all the lines.  Open all the faucets to allow water to drain back into the tank.   Then either blow out the lines and fixtures with compressed air or pump RV antifreeze through the lines until it comes out every fixture.  You may want to pump antifreeze through the system after blowing it out just be sure you don't have any problems if there was any residual left after blowing it out.  Don't forget the toilet!   Make sure you put at least a half cup of antifreeze in each sink or shower to protect the P-trap in the drain.   Dump enough antifreeze into the black water tank through the toilet and down the gray water drains (sinks, shower) to protect the dump valves -- usually at least a quart in each tank.  Drain the hot water heater. If it has bypass valves, set them so the antifreeze will flow through the bypass instead of the water heater.  That saves you about 6 gallons or more of antifreeze it would take to fill the hot water heater.

Use ONLY Marine/RV antifreeze in RVs and camping appliances.   It is non-toxic and is usually pink in color.  Automobile antifreeze (that green stuff) is usually ethylene glycol and is toxic. NEVER use it in an RV water system, not even in the holding tanks.  The chemicals in automotive antifreeze are not compatible with septic systems.

Don't forget your fresh water fill hose.   You should always drain the hose before storing it anyway, but for winter storage in freezing temperatures it is especially important to make sure there is no water left in the hose to freeze.  Water expands when it changes to ice which can burst the hose.

Windshield washer fluid also needs to be changed.   Summer formulas will freeze, most winter formulas are good down to at least -20°F.  That should be good enough for must of us, unless you live in northern Alaska or plan to visit Antarctica!

If you plan to use your RV at all during the winter months, you'll need to switch to winter fuel blends.  We usually don't think of fuel as being susceptible to freezing.   But, have you ever seen the documentaries of Antarctic research stations where they had to build fires under the fuel tanks before they could get their equipment going?  Winter diesel fuels have additives that prevent them from gelling.  Summer blends do not and at temperatures below about 40F will start to gel and become unusable.  The colder it gets, the worse the problem.  Hard starting is an early symptom and as it gets colder the engine won't run at all.  Propane has a similar problem.   Although it vaporizes at -44F, the reduction in tank pressure at low temperatures will cause  problems.  I have seen it recommended to keep your propane tanks full whenever the temperature drops below 40°F.  Partially empty tanks encourage condensation which can freeze.  The temperature inside the tanks drops dramatically as gas is drawn off. I could not light the furnace in my Class B at all one winter in Chicago when it was about -20°F outside.  I've had similar problems with the furnace in my camper at temperatures below 10F° here in Utah.   Freezing of pressure regulators can occur even when the outside temperature is above freezing due to the cooling effect of the propane itself on the regulator.  Try to use up you last summer filling of your propane tank and refill it before putting your rig into storage.  Winter blends often contain a mix of propane and butane, which improves low temperature performance.

If you're not going to be using your RV during winter months you need to winterize the water systems and batteries and protect the vehicle from bad weather.   Storing it in a garage, shed, or carport is best.  Next best is using an RV cover.  As a last resort you can protect them with tarps, but tarps can damage paint and other surfaces and may trap condensation.  Use tire covers while the vehicle is in storage to reduce weather checking and prolong the useful life of your tires.   You will also need to remove any provisions (food stuffs, medicines, cleaning supplies) that might freeze or be attacked by bugs or rodents while your vehicle is in storage.  For added protection against mice, put a Decon trap or two inside.  To prevent moisture from accumulating and contributing to mildew and odor problems, use some kind of de-humidifier in your RV while it is in storage.  There are electric de-humidifiers you can use if you have 120 volt power to your RV in storage and there are chemical types that work anywhere.  For the past several years I've been able to find them at my local Dollar Tree so they don't have be expensive.  Make sure you put the cap back on and remove them before you take your RV out next spring so the collected moisture doesn't spill.  BTW, if when you check them during storage you find only liquid in the container, toss it out and replace it with a new one.

If you do plan to use your RV in winter activities you will need to make sure the water system and holding tanks are protected against freezing.  You may need to apply heat tape to exposed tanks and water lines.  You can also buy heated potable water hoses for your city water connection.  Be aware a heated hose may still leave the faucet unprotected and it could freeze, leaving you without water but with a hefty repair bill from the campground!  Always wrap the exposed pipe for your water faucet with heat tape in freezing weather.  You may need auxiliary heat to supplement your furnace.   If you have shore power, portable electric heaters are a simple and convenience solution.  Lacking shore power, you'll need catalytic heaters that run on white gas or propane.   Keep in mind these heaters consume oxygen so they can only be used with adequate ventilation.  That means keeping a couple of windows open enough to provide both you and the device with enough fresh air to breathe.  To minimize heating needs, make sure your windows are insulated with heavy drapes or add bubble-foil insulating panels.  Unless your RV has four wheel drive you may be required to have tire chains on certain mountain passes.   Installing tire chains on a large RV is not fun!  You may want to practice it a few times before you find yourself out alongside the road putting them on in a blizzard!  A small tarp or section of bubble-foil insulation to lie on helps keep you out of the wet snow.

Batteries.   Make sure your batteries are fully charged.  If you have them on an automatic battery tender, you can leave them in the vehicle but if they aren't on a charger, take them out and store them where they won't freeze.  Fully charged batteries are safe down to about -75°F; dead batteries will freeze around -10°F.  Check the electrolyte level and top them off with distilled water BEFORE the temperature drops below 32°F.  Water added in freezing weather will probably freeze before it gets mixed with the rest of the acid unless you drive a bit or take the batteries out and shake them.   Also make sure all the connections are clean and tight.

No freeze-ups!