RV Basics -- RVing for Dummies

I know none of you are really dummies, but the plethora of XXXXX for Dummies books and manuals lends itself to the concept of introducing novices to new technology. There are many facets of an RV that will be new to you if you've never used one before. There may be some things you think you know but sometimes "what you know ain't so" and that can be the worst kind of knowledge.  For those of you who may be new to owning or using an RV, here are some fundamental concepts you need to know.   More experienced readers may even find some esoteric topics or thoughts on the RV lifestyle.

First, what is an RV? "RV" stands for "Recreational Vehicle". While it is sometimes used to describe off highway vehicles used for sport, it is more commonly used to describe a motorhome, truck camper, van conversion, travel trailer, or tent trailer that provides sleeping, cooking, and, usually, sanitation facilities -- a home on wheels. Technically it can be either self-propelled (a motorhome) or towed (a travel trailer) but most commonly refers to motorhomes. Towables are typically called "travel trailers" or "TTs". A variation called the "tent trailer", which, as the name implies, is part trailer, part tent and is also considered an RV.  Truck campers may also be classified as RVs but are usually just called campers.  The Robin Williams movie "RV" was about a family's motorhome adventures.

Winnebago.   Winnebago is a specific brand of motorhome but in common usage is almost synonymous with "motorhome".  They launched the first production Class A motorhome line back in 1963.  "Minnie Winnies" are Winnebago brand Class C mini motorhomes, but just as people sometimes use "Winnebago" to describe any motorhome, "Minnie Winnie" is often applied (or misapplied) to any Class C.

Self contained: this means the RV can be used without the need for external hookups like water, sewer, and electricity. A self contained RV is an excellent choice if you intend to go boondocking (camping in remote locations without hookups). A self contained RV will have a fresh water tank and one or two holding tanks. Most RVs have two holding tanks: one for sink and shower water, called gray water and a separate tank for the toilet (called black water). Keep in mind that although your RV emulates many of the amenities you have at home, it has restrictions. For example, unless you are hooked up in an RV park, you have a very limited supply of water and holding tank capacity. Do everything you can to conserve water. Learn to take "Navy" showers (turn the water off while scrubbing and run it only as needed to rinse before and after using soap. Many RV showers are equipped with shutoffs at the head so you can easily turn them off while scrubbing and only run the water when you absolutely need it. If yours is not so equipped, shutoffs are pretty easy to add, and well worth the effort and investment. Don't use your precious water to pre-rinse dirty dishes. Wipe them with a paper towel or piece of newspaper instead. Make sure faucets are shut off completely after every use. You would be surprised how quickly a leaking faucet can transfer your fresh water to your holding tanks and convert it to sewage. To be completely self contained it will need an onboard source of 120 volt power, usually from a generator, but could be provided by a large battery bank and solar panels.  Propane powers most RV furnaces, hot water heaters, and even refrigerators.  Most, but not all, modern motorhomes and travel trailers are self contained, although generators and roof A/C units are often optional on travel trailers, campers, and Class B motorhomes and you'll seldom see them on campers and almost never on tent trailers.

Many truck campers and tent trailers and some small travel trailers are NOT self-contained, but they still provide a number of creature comforts.  Low-end models often have an icebox instead of a refrigerator and no toilet or holding tanks.  The sink drains directly out the side of the camper so you need to use a hose and bucket to collect and dispose of the waste water. Bigger/better units will have built in holding tanks to collect waste water.  Smaller units often won't have any bathroom facilities, except maybe a "porta-potty". High end truck campers may be self contained and have most the facilities of a motorhome, including bathrooms, crammed into a much smaller, top heavy space.  Even so, the solid, insulated walls and comfortable beds make these units an attractive and comfortable alternative to tent camping.  They make setting up camp faster and easier and will usually be somewhat warmer in cold weather and cooler in hot weather than a tent.  And they don't flap in the breeze and are less prone to leak when it rains or snows.

Galley.   The kitchen facilities in an RV are often referred to as the "galley",  a term borrowed from boating.  This area will incorporate the range and oven, refrigerator, sink, food preparation areas, and cabinetry for storing cooking ware and provision.  The sink is usually supplied with water from the fresh water holding tank.  Most RVs today have 12-volt demand water pumps that deliver water to the fixtures.  Some older units had pressurized water tanks and some campers and small trailers had/have manual pumps built into the faucet.  To use a manual pump you usually lift the knob on the top of the faucet to draw water into the pump and push it down to dispense water into the sink.  On RVs with 12-volt demand or pressurized systems, you simply turn on the faucet like you would at home.  If you don't get any water, check to see that the pump switch is turned on.  If you happen to have an old-fashioned pressurized water system and don't get water at the fixtures (and there is water in the tank) you'll have the re-pressurize the system. This can sometimes be done by an on board electrical pump or by adding air through a Shrader valve (like a tire valve) near the hose connection.  You can do this using the air hose at a service station, a 12-volt air pump, or even an old fashioned manual tire pump. The stove in an RV is typically powered by propane.  Most require you to light the burners but some may have automatic igniters like your gas range at home.  Always have your match or lighter ready before you turn on the gas.  You don't want to let excess gas escape into the enclosed space of the coach before you light the burner or you could blow yourself up!  Light the lighter or match first, then turn on the gas.  From then on, the stove will work about the same as any residential gas range, except the smaller burners may require some shifting of large pans to ensure even heating and cooking may take a little longer.  Some RV ranges include an oven that also behaves much like the one at home.  You must take care with most RV ranges and ovens to make sure the gas is turned off at the controls when the burners or oven is not lit.  Some newer models include thermocouples that only allow gas to flow when the fixture is ignited, but most will allow gas to flow as soon as the knob is turned on.  Always have your match or lighter ready when you turn on the gas so it will ignite immediately without dispersing excess gas into the living area. There is a trend these days toward microwave/convection ovens that may eliminate the need for a gas oven.  The refrigerator in most RVs is a gas-absorption model.  That means it runs on propane instead of electricity, although there are some luxury RVs that use a large battery bank and solar panels to power a residential style electric refrigerator.  If you have trouble getting gas appliances (stove, oven, refrigerator, furnace, hot water heater) to light, check to make sure the main propane valve on the tank has been opened.  The cabinetry is pretty much a scaled down version of what you have at home so you'll need to be selective in what you bring along.  Giant economy sizes of things usually offer cost savings for home use but may not fit well in an RV.  You may need to repackage ingredients into smaller sizes.  The cabinet doors and even the drawers will have some kind of positive latch.  If there is no apparent latch on drawers, you will need to lift the front of the drawer before it can be pulled out.

Head:  a term borrowed from nautical jargon meaning "bathroom"; sometimes it refers specifically to the toilet itself.

Some RV Shower Tips.  RV showers are much like residential showers except they are usually smaller.  That isn't generally a problem unless you are a larger than average person or somewhat claustrophobic.  As mentioned above, having a shutoff on the shower head will help conserve water and reduce filling holding tanks.  True, you could just shut off the faucets but it isn't nearly as convenient as a shutoff on the shower head and you will waste water re-adjusting the temperature, not to mention the unpleasantness of cold (or hot)water while you struggle to get the right temperature.  Another thing we found helpful in our RV when hooked to city water:  turn on the water pump while showering to get extra flow and pressure.  The inline pressure regulators strongly recommended to protect the plumbing also reduce flow.  The opening inside them is less than 1/4"!  One more shower tip:  keep an inexpensive squeegee handy (we got our from Dollar Tree) and use it to clear the water off the shower walls and doors so avoid a buildup of water spots.

Full hookups. Full hookups means the campground has connections for water, sewer, and electricity. Some campgrounds may also offer cable TV and telephone connections.  Many of today's campgrounds even offer Internet via wifi.  RVs may be wired for either 30 or 50 amp electrical service. Older campgrounds may offer only 30 amp service. Adapters are available to connect 50-amp RVs to 30-amp service, but you will only have 30 amps of power available. Adapters are even available to connect your high-amperage RVs to ordinary 15 amp household outlets. Doing so allows you limited use of RV electrical appliances. A 15 amp circuit is usually enough to power the RV's 12-volt converter and to run the refrigerator and entertainment systems. It is NOT enough to operate air conditioners!  You might get an air conditioner to come on while connected to a 15 amp circuit but you risk damaging the motor and you'll probably find the power cord gets quite hot, perhaps even hot enough to melt the insulation and short out, so, please, don't even try it!  If you REALLY need some cooling, use the FAN ONLY option.   That will move some air to help you feel cooler without stressing the electrical system.  By the way, don't leave power cords coiled or wrapped around reels.  This increases the chance of overheating and damaging the cord.  I've seen power cords wrapped on reels that melted all the way through the insulation and shorted out the wires in several places.  Exceeding the amperage of the circuit you're connected to will trip circuit breakers or blow fuses.  There are adapters that plug into both the 15 amp and 30 amp plugs on a campground pedestal in an attempt to approximate 50 amp service for vehicles with a 50 amp power cord.  However, whether it actually adds amps depends on how the pedestal is wired.  If the 15-amp plug and 30-amp plug on the pedestal are on the same circuit to start with, you'll only get 30-amps.

Boondocking  or dry camping refers to camping "off the grid" either in open camping areas with no facilities or in primitive campgrounds without hookups, designed mostly for tent camping.  Technically it might also be considered dry camping if you stop overnight in a rest area or a Walmart parking lot but these overnight stays are not usually considered boondocking since you aren't in really in a primitive setting.

 RV toilets are made to look much like their residential counterparts, but there are significant differences. Residential toilets use a reservoir of 3-5 gallons of water for flushing. RV toilets have a stream of water that helps rinse the bowl but most of the flushing is taken care of by gravity and usually use only about 1 pint of water per flush, depending on how long you hold down the foot valve. The "flush lever" for an RV toilet is usually foot operated because it has to open the spring-loaded valve in the bottom of the toilet. The same lever also controls the flow of water. For best results, I like to fill the narrow lower part of the toilet with water before using the toilet for more than urination. The water helps carry the solid waste into the holding tanks, prevents deposits on the bowl, and provides needed liquid for the holding tank chemicals to function properly to digest waste and control odors and to facilitate dumping.  The swirling water entering the bowl wets the surface and helps prevent stains.  Do NOT fill the bowl with water. It won't add much functionality and will waste a lot of water. When you are done, hold the foot pedal down enough to keep the water flowing after the valve has closed to allow a little water (an inch or two) to accumulate on top of the closed valve at the bottom of the well to seal out fumes. Make sure the waste passed completely past the valve at the bottom and that there is no waste or tissue caught where it will interfere with closing the valve. Then make sure the pedal is fully released. If anything blocks it or it gets bent and binds, the valve will not close completely. Nasty holding tank odors can then get into the coach and the stuck pedal will likely leave the water valve open and you'll transfer all your precious fresh water into the holding tank converting fresh water to sewage. Take care not to release the foot pedal until all the waste and tissue has fallen into the holding tank. If anything gets caught in the valve, it won't close and you will "enjoy" the above mentioned consequences and they aren't pleasant. On one outing, a novice visitor let the valve close on some tissue that was stuck in the throat of the toilet. It held the valve slightly open and eventually emptied our fresh water tanks into the black water tank and overflowed the toilet. Yccch!  We were all outside and didn't know there was a problem until I noticed water dripping from under the RV.  It took weeks to get the smell out of the carpet! Be aware that some RVs have a shower that drains into the black water tank. This isn't just because the manufacturer was too cheap or too lazy to run the drain to the gray water tank. It helps reduce filling of the gray water tank and it adds much needed liquid to the black water tank to aid decomposition and flushing out of solid wastes.  A handy trick we learned is to put the bowl for the toilet brush in the bottom of a Big Gulp cup and keep it behind the toilet.  It makes a cleaner and easier place to store the brush.  A dowel with a motorcycle hand grip also makes a good cleaning stick to clean the bowl quickly after each use.  Just wrap a little toilet paper around the end of the dowel and clean away.  Then flush the tissue and rinse the stick.  That way you can keep the bowl clean without collecting any foul residue on your toilet brush.  You could try the same trick using the toilet brush, but the tissue tends to get stuck in the bristles.   Most RV toilets are positioned directly above the black water tank and empty straight into it but some large luxury units with multiple bathrooms may have a vacuum operated toilet located some distance from the black water tank.  These require special consideration when flushing to make sure the waste is all flushed into the holding tank.  A common problem, especially with new users, is not using enough water when flushing solids down the toilet.  Without enough water the solids will pile up right below the toilet, forming a hard pyramid that will be difficult to flush out and sometimes accumulating high enough to block the toilet.  Insufficient water also restricts the ability of holding tank chemicals to break down solid waste and control odors.  You always want to conserve fresh water when you can, especially when boondocking, but don't be TOO stingy or you'll regret it.  Another tip especially for the gentlemen:  sit down!  No matter how good your aim may be, there will still be some splatter that will eventually accumulate around the toilet and create unpleasant odors.  Sitting down is an especially good idea at night when you don't want to turn on lights that would disturb other sleepers in your RV.  Most RV toilets are made of plastic, although porcelain models are becoming more popular.  A porcelain toilet can be cleaned just like the one at home but the more common plastic models should not be cleaned with harsh abrasives.  If you need cleanser, use products designed for RV toilets or choose Bon Ami brand (their tag line is "Hasn't scracthed yet!") or Bar Keepers Friend.  Even then, don't rub too hard.  If you etch the surface trying to get it clean you will only exacerbate the problem.  The scratches you make will trap additional material and you may end up having to replace the entire toilet!

City water hookup: Hooking the hose to the city water connection is what you will do if you are staying in a developed campground with hookups. Always use a hose rated for potable water and dedicated only for your fresh water use (hook-up or filling your tanks). Also always use a pressure regulator between the faucet and those to protect both the hose and somewhat fragile RV plumbing from high pressures that can cause damage.   If you use an ordinary garden hose your water will most likely smell and taste like plastic. If you use a hose you also use for flushing your dump hose you risk contaminating your fresh water supply with sewage. Also use an inline pressure regulator to prevent excess pressure from damaging your RV plumbing.  Using the city water connection eliminates the need for your 12-volt water pump to run and, if the pressure in the park is satisfactory, gives you residential performance within your RV. Some folks are bothered by the noise of the water pump when it cycles, so using city water when you can eliminate this problem, which can be especially annoying when someone uses the bathroom in the middle of the night. Many RV water tanks are located beneath the main bed with the pump nearby, so the sound of the pump running can be quite effectively disturb the slumber of the occupants. The city water connection is usually on the left side of the RV and is a female hose fitting to which you attach a hose connected to the faucet in the campground. Use only the white, potable water hoses designed for this purpose. Ordinary garden hoses will leach a plastic taste into your water. Connect the hose to the faucet and turn on the faucet and let it run for a few minutes before connecting the hose to the RV to clean out any dust, insects, stale water, or other contaminates that might have accumulated during storage.  Another option is a pressurized water system in which compressed air is used to push the water through the plumbing to the faucets. The compressors for these systems only run when the pressure drops below a threshold so they don't run every time a faucet is opened like 12-volt pump systems do. Some older truck campers, tent trailers, and small travel trailers have a pump type faucet at the kitchen sink instead of having a water pump. This eliminates the sound of the pump cycling and use of battery power but lacks the "at home" convenience of running water via a pressurized system.  When disconnecting a city water connection, turn off of the campground faucet, then open the galley faucet to relieve pressure before disconnecting the hose from the RV.  Then disconnect the hose from the faucet.  It is a good idea to keep one end of the hose low as you roll it up to allow water to drain out so it doesn't stagnate, mildew, or  host algae colonies during storage.  The city water inlet includes a anti back flow valve that prevents water from flowing back out when the pump is turned on.   There is usually a flow restrictor also.  I've seen folks remove the back valve to improve the flow and pressure of city water hookups, but then the on board water system cannot be used because it will simply pump all the water out the city water inlet.  A pressure regulator should always be used with city water connections.  The regulator is normally placed between the hose and the faucet to protect the hose as well as the RV plumbing.  Why do you need a pressure regulator?  Well, I've seen water pressure in some campgrounds exceed 100 psi and it can vary a lot depending on how much water is being used by how many rigs at the same time.  The plastic plumbing in most RVs is not designed for high pressure.

By the way, if the pump cycles when you're not using any water, there is probably a leak somewhere.  Make sure all the faucets are shut off and that there isn't something holding the toilet partly open.  If everything is shut off and the pump still cycles unexpectedly, there is likely a leak somewhere.  Look for wet spots on the floor or inside cabinets where the water lines might run.  Some leaks are very hard to find.  I had a situation where a hot water tank fitting only leaked when the water was hot.  You won't hear the pump cycling if you're using your city water hookup but you could get wet spots and might here hissing if there is a leak in the fresh water system.  It is important to control or correct leaks as soon as possible to avoid dry rot in the wet walls and floor, which can lead to difficult and expensive repairs.  The pump will run continuously if that tank is empty and might also run continuously or cycle randomly if the internal parts of the pump are worn or damaged.  If you can't find a leak anywhere, have the pump checked.  Rebuild kits are available for most pumps and are a lot less expensive than a new pump.

Filling the fresh water tank: there are two methods of filling fresh water tanks: gravity fill and city water connection. Gravity fill systems have a little doorway on the side of the RV with a pipe that leads to your fresh water tank. Simply add water through that opening from a hose or water jug until the tank is full. You may be able to have someone monitor the gauges inside the unit but most people just fill until water runs out of the fill-port. There are special little hoses made to fit into the fill port to make filling easier than holding the male end of the hose in place until the tank is full. These are usually about a foot long and made of clear or white vinyl tubing with a female hose fitting on one end and the other end (that goes into the fill port) cut off. Some have shutoff valves at the female end. If you purchase one that does not have a shutoff valve, one can easily be added. They are found at RV stores and most any home and garden centers. The shutoff makes it easy to stop filling as soon as the tank is full without having to make a mad dash to the faucet while water gushes down the side of your RV and all over the place. Water will likely spill out the fill on turns and other maneuvers that tilt the coach until the water level shifts a bit. Many RVs have overflow tubes that allow water to spill while on the road, especially on turns or climbing hills or on ramps, often prompting well-meaning fellow motorists to warn you that something is leaking. I've heard you can lose up to 25% of your fresh water through the overflow tubes. A fairly easy and inexpensive solution is to locate the tubes and install inline shutoff valves. Just make sure you open them again when you get to camp. The overflow tubes also function as a vent to avoid building up a vacuum inside the fresh water tank as you pump water out. Units with gravity fill systems will be vented through the filler tube, but those that can only be filled via the fresh water connection depend on the overflow tubes for venting.  Gravity fill is not available on the old style pressurized systems since the system must be sealed to maintain pressure to deliver water to the fixtures.  If you see excess water coming out the fill port before the tank is full, the filler tube may be pinched, partially blocked, or perhaps just not steep enough.  If the problem is that the tube doesn't have enough slope, you may be able raise the side of the RV where the filler port is so water will flow down into the tank better.  Sometimes, but not often, it is possible to replace and reroute the filler tube to get improved flow.

The second fill method utilizes the city water connection for your RV and isn't very common. This uses the city water inlet, a female hose connector mounted to the side of the RV. There may be some kind of transfer pump, switch, or valve to direct the water to the fresh water tank instead of into the RV plumbing, so check your owners manual or have a knowledgeable service technician demonstrate how this is done. On some units you may have the option of using either a gravity fill or the city water connection. Personally, I think gravity fill works faster, but the transfer option allows you to top off your fresh water tank while you're connected to city water in the campground.  Filling via the city water connection avoids messy spillage but  you may have to monitor it carefully to avoid overfilling the fresh water tank and causing problems with the tank and/or the plumbing.

Holding tanks  capture waste water and sewage.  Most RVs have a black water tank for toilet waste and one or more gray water tanks for sink and shower water.  The shower in some RVs drains into the black water tank to increase the availability of liquid to decompose and flush solids and to minimize filling of the gray water tank.  The only time this may be of particular concern is if you over fill your black water tank so that nasty odors and other filthy stuff starts coming up out of the shower drain. Definitely something to be avoided!

Dumping the holding tanks: many new users think this task is difficult and unsanitary and extremely disgusting. It can be if done improperly, but if done right, it is neither. A good first step is to wear disposable rubber gloves. That way, if any sewage should accidentally spill, you won't contaminate your skin. Done correctly with equipment that is in good condition, there shouldn't be any spillage. For added safety and comfort, put on rubber gloves before handling the sewer hose and dump valves. I use disposable latex gloves but some owners prefer stronger re-usable rubber gloves. If you use re-usable gloves, you'll want to wash them after each use before you put them away. While I like the convenience of the disposable gloves, they are somewhat flimsy and are easily torn by the hose clamps on many sewer hose systems. A fairly recent addition is the Rhino-flex sewer hose system, that uses connectors that screw onto the end of the sewer hose and eliminate the old hose clamps. Even if you wear gloves, be sure to wash your hands thoroughly when you're done or use a hand sanitizer. There is a scene in the Robin Williams movie "RV" where he gets showered with really nasty sewage attempting to dump the holding tank on a rented RV. The good news is it is highly unlikely you will ever experience anything quite like what he did. Simple physics tells you there won't be a huge geyser of sewage like the one in the movie without some outside force to pressurize the lines. The bad news is, you can still get covered in filth if you happen to aim the business end of a dump hose in the wrong direction or a hose comes loose during dumping and you're in its line of fire!   While it isn't likely to shoot 8-10 feet in the air like it did in the movie, you can expect it to rise to the level of the top of the holding tank, which could be about waist high on a large RV.  Although there isn't enough force to shoot high in the air as in the movie, there is enough to pop poorly attached hoses off their connectors and flood the area -- and any bystanders -- with really nasty raw sewage. The worst spills I've ever have seen are fairly common and are contained within the basin around the dump when the hose pops up out of the drain opening. Anyone nearby may have been splattered with nasty stuff, but most of the spill was simply washed down into the sewers and what did splash on bystanders was pretty easy to clean off.  It can get much nastier if the dump hose comes off the valve or the separates at the input end,especially if you happen to be kneeling down to tighten the connection or operate the dump valve when it comes apart.  In-line connections are also sometimes subject to coming loose so you want to make sure they are secure BEFORE you open the valve.

Dump caps should always be firmly closed except when actually connecting hose for dumping.  The standard dump cap is a solid black plastic cap but there are accessories caps that have a male hose fitting built in with its own cap.  This allows you to drain off gray water into a suitable disposal site through an ordinary garden hose instead of having to hook up the messy and cumbersome 3" dump hose.  I've seen folks use these to get rid of extra gray water when camping in remote desert locations where there was no chance of contaminating ground water.  Another benefit of the garden hose fitting is you can open it before removing the cap to see if any water has leaked past the valves.  It is easy to drain the offending liquid into a bucket or directly into the dump hose through the small hose adapter connection, avoiding a huge splash of potentially really nasty stuff when you open the big cap.  Most dump caps are made of black ABS plastic but you can also buy some made of clear plastic that lets you see if there is any leakage behind them before you open any caps.  You can get get both solid and clear hose adapter caps.  I prefer the hose adapter caps so I can drain any leakage before opening the 3" cap and facing a surge of nasty sewage.  A dribble from the hose connector fitting is much easier to control than the gush from a 3" sewer pipe!  Having a clear cap lets you see if you need to drain the leakage before opening the cap and getting dowsed with nasty stuff!

Line up the dump valves on your unit with the dump station. If the ground around the dump station slopes away, you may need to raise the other side of your RV to get complete dumping. Dump stations should slope toward the dump facility, not away, but that isn't always the case.  Proper dump stations may have been designed with a bit of proper slope but many were after thoughts whose design was focused purely on easy of installation and the surrounding parking area may be flat or even tilted the wrong way.  Hydraulic levelers on motorhomes can easily overcome this or you can drive up on leveling blocks.  If you can't get your RV to lean toward the dump station, don't panic.  MOST of the contents of the holding tanks will still drain out.  Once in place, get out your sewer hose then remove the cap from the dump valve. Some RVs have a single point of attachment even if there are two holding tanks and two dump valves. If yours has separate points of attachment, connect to the black water tank first. This tank should be directly below the toilet. It is a good idea to have a bucket or pan under the dump port when you remove the cap in case the valve wasn't closed completely or the seals are bad and sewage leaked into the space between the valve and the cap. If you use a clear plastic cap you will be able to see if there is stuff behind it before you open it and get deluged.  Once the cap has been removed, attach the sewer hose to the dump port. The port will have tabs which hook onto shaped locks on the sewer hose coupling to latch. Twist the coupling until the hooks on the coupling are securely fastened on the tabs. Place the other end of the sewer hose into the sewer pipe in the dump station.  Dump stations will usually have a heavy brass cap that can be opened via a foot level on one side.  Push the hose down into the dump station several inches.  There are various kinds of adapters available to fit different styles of dump stations and sewer connections but for the most part, the unfinished end of the sewer hose will fit down into the pipe in the dump station. Push it down a few inches and close the brass cap. If there is no cap, look for a brick or rock you can put on the hose to hold it in place.  You might need to have someone hold it down with their foot.  You don't want it to shoot out when the sewage begins to flow! With the hose securely in place, open the dump valve on the RV. Dump valves have a T-handle that is locked in place by a plastic nut where the shaft enters the valve. Loosen the nut until it is completely free from the valve body, then pull the T-handle straight out. Do NOT pull it at an angle as that will bend the handle and damage the valve. Because of the placement of the valves underneath the RV it may be difficult to get a straight pull on the handles, but it is VERY important that you do. When you pull the valve open you will hear (and quite possibly smell!) the sewage as it begins to flow. Some fittings and hoses are translucent so you can see into them, making it easier to determine when dumping is complete. Some fancy RVs have electrically operated dump valves for extra convenience.  If you are fortunate enough to have an RV with a power flush system, you can connect a garden hose to the flush fitting and turn the water on to complete flushing the tank.  I usually connect the hose before beginning to dump and turn on the water just before opening the valve.  If you don't have a flush system, you will need to either flush the tanks using a wand attached to a hose connected to the water faucet at the dump station and inserted through the toilet to flush the inside of the black water tank or you'll have to back-flush the tanks through the sewer hose. If you have to use wand you can usually run the hose through the bathroom window to avoid dragging it through the inside of your RV.  After having to do this a couple of times you'll understand the popularity of power flushing systems. To back flush the tank through the sewer hose, lift the discharge end of the sewer hose above the dump port and run clean water back through the sewer hose to partially fill the tank and then put it back into the dump station pipe and let it drain again. There are flush adapters that fit between the sewer hose and the dump port. They are usually made of clear plastic so you can observe the flow and color of the waste as you flush.  They have a female garden hose fitting where you can connect a garden hose.  They usually come with an anti-siphon device to keep sewage from being sucked back up into the fresh water system.   A nozzle inside the fitting sprays back up inside the dump port to flush the tank or down the hose to flush it, depending on position of the valve. These devices work pretty well when they shoot directly back into the tank but lose a little effectiveness if there are 90° turns in the pipes between the valve and the tanks like occurs when you have one valve connected mid-way between two tanks.  If you have a flush system or a flush adapter you will probably want to bring your own garden hose to make the connection. The hoses at many dump stations have had the male fitting cut off to prevent people using a hose contaminated by sewage for fresh water purposes. NEVER use a hose intended for filling fresh water (yours or at the dump site) when flushing holding tanks.  No matter how you flush the tank, flush it until the water running from the end of the sewer hose is clear. When you are finished flushing the black water tank, let it drain completely, then close the black water valve. If you have separate dump ports, move the sewer hose to the gray water port and replace the cap on the black water dump port. Then open the gray water valve and drain the gray water tank. Flushing the gray water tank is not as important as flushing the black water tank and is most easily done using a flushing system. I do not recommend back-flushing through the sewer hose since you may flush residual black water sewage contaminants into the gray water tank. If you feel you must flush your gray water tank, install a flush system or purchase one of the flush adapters mentioned above. The only other way would be to run a garden hose inside the RV and run lots of water down the tub/shower or sink drain.  The flush system is the most sanitary. Using the adapter minimizes the potential for contaminating your gray water tank but is it still shooting rinse water back up through an area that was contaminated by black water. There is no convenient way to flush the grey water tanks from inside the RV. You could run a hose into the sink or shower but I wouldn't want to risk contaminating any of the sinks or counters. Once you have finished flushing your gray water tank and let it drain completely, close the valve, remove the sewer hose and replace the cap on the dump port. Now rinse the sewer hose inside and out with clean water, letting it drain into the dump station basin, and put it back in its storage compartment. Rinse any spilled sewage within the dump basin down the drain. Hopefully there will be no spillage outside the dump station basin. If there is, flush it away with plenty of water. Now go inside ore RV and put the proper amount of chemicals into your black water tank through the toilet. You will need to know the black water capacity of your unit so you can pour the right amount of chemicals into the tank. I usually dump the chemicals into the toilet, then run a little water into the toilet until the narrow well in the bottom is full and then flush it rather than trying to dump the chemicals directly through the toilet into the tank. This is especially helpful if the chemicals you are using are in powder rather than liquid form. By the way, I have not found any particular advantage to one form over the other. I usually just go for the best price. Many experts recommend running about an inch of water into the bottom of the black water tank to provide enough liquid to begin dissolving and processing solid waste. You may think you're wasting valuable holding tank capacity, but in reality it is a good investment in proper holding tank maintenance. Discard your disposable gloves and thoroughly wash your hands with soap and warm water. I strongly suggest you carefully inspect your sewer hose before each trip and replace it if is showing any thin spots or leakage. Having the proper hose in good condition is essential to sanitary and successful dumping. If you've ever seen the movie "RV", with Robin Williams, I'm sure you will recall the nasty situation he encountered when he attempted to dump the holding tanks. With equipment in good condition and by following proper procedures, including parking close enough to the dump station, you will not share his nasty fate! By the way, simple physics tells us the spectacular fountain of waste produced in the movie isn't realistic, but any leakage or failure of your sewer lines will produce very nasty consequences to anyone in the line of fire. So always make sure the hoses are in good condition and all connections are properly tightened.

Using park sewer hookups: If you are staying in a park with full hookups, you will have a sewer connection right at your site.  Site connections usually don't include a basin, just a pipe sticking up out of the ground or maybe a little concrete slab immediately around the pipe and often have a screw in cap you have to remove to install your dump hose.  Connect the sewer hose from the dump port to the sewer pipe as you would to dump the tanks (wear your rubber gloves for this task). If you have a unit with separate dump ports, connect the hose to the gray water tank and open the gray water valve. If you have a single dump port for dual tanks, connect the hose to the dump port. Some folks like to open only the gray water valve but with it open you may get fumes from the campground sewer system back up into your RV.   It is OK for gray water to drain directly into the sewer immediately but you definitely don't want to do that with the black water tank. The reason for this is, with the valve open, all the water will drain away quickly and leave solid waste behind. The best method is to wait until the black water tank at least half full before opening the valve and dumping it. That way, the water stays in the tank to flush the solids out when the valve is opened. Allowing the water to stand in the tank also gives the chemicals or enzymes a chance to do their job liquifying solid wastes.   While is is acceptable to leave the gray water valve open, most RVers find it best to keep both dump valves closed until the tanks are at least half full before dumping them.  That way there is sufficient liquid to flush the contents and you have water in the gray water tank to flush the valves and drain hose after dumping the black water tank.  Thoroughly flushing the hose helps minimize odors making their way back up into your RV.   Remember to recharge the holding tank chemicals each time you dump the tank. If you are flushing when the tank is half full, you may only need half as much chemical as you would use if you were setting it up for use on the road or remote camping where the tank may become near full. When you end your stay at the park, you will want to completely flush your black water tank and recharge the chemicals fully before hitting the road again. Since you don't know if you'll be dumping again when its only half full, put in enough chemicals for a full tank. 

Valterra offers an alternative to regular holding tank dumping that allows you to dump the tanks into a sewer access some distance (up to 100 feet) from your RV.  It is called the Valterra Sewer Solution. It connects to the same sewer port as your regular dump hose.  It is powered by a hose from an external "city water" faucet, which both pulverized and flushes wastes down a 3/4" hose up to 25 feet.  It comes with a 10' hose and you can buy 25' extensions.  You can use 1" PVC pipe to extend the reach as far as 100 feet.  The only complaint I've seen is that it takes longer than  using a standard 3" sewer hose.

Electrical connections: another nice feature of staying in a park with hookups is the availability of electricity. RVs typically have either 30 amp or 50 amp service. Be sure to check the rating for your unit. 30-amp service has a large, 3-prong plug like an older electric clothes dryer on the shore power cord. The plug on 50-amp systems has 4 prongs. There are adapters available at RV stores to allow connecting a 50-amp cord to a 30-amp receptacle. There are even adapters that will let you connect 30 or 50 amp cords to ordinary 15-amp residential receptacles. Keep in mind that when you connect to a lower amp service, you only have that much power available, regardless of the rating of your RV. Using a lower amp service, especially 15-amp, means you won't have the capacity to run all the appliances you would at your rated service, especially air conditioners. If you find you keep tripping the park's circuit breaker (usually located on the same power pole where you plug in), turn off some appliances. Don't even try running the roof A/C if you are plugged in to an ordinary 15 amp receptacle. That is a sure way to trip the breakers or perhaps even burn out wiring and cause a fire. And, attempting to run the air conditioner on low power can damage its electric motor.  If you don't have a receptacle at home with the right rating you may need to use an adapter to connect to your ordinary 15-amp household outlet to pre-cool the fridge and keep the batteries charged. Remember, do not try to run air conditioners on a 15 amp circuit.  Always check the plug before connecting to park receptacles.  Make sure the prongs are clean, dry, and straight.  Then plug them in fully and securely.  Try to route the power cord so it doesn't create a trip hazard nor put unnecessary strain on the plug or the connection to the RV. It is a good idea to carry a circuit tester to check the connections before you plug in.  Occasionally you may run into park connections that are wired wrong.  I've even found brand new extension cords that were cross wired.  The tester is fairly small and inexpensive.  Here is an online example:  120 volt circuit tester.  You simply plug it into a 15-amp outlet (on the park power post or in your RV) and lights will indicate if the wiring is correct.  Diagrams on the tester indicate whether the wiring is correct or not and, if not, what is wrong.,  Incorrect wiring can damage electrical and electronic appliances and can sometimes cause a fire.  120 volt circuit testers are available at hardware stores and home centers and you might find them at some RV stores. They are safe and easy to use, as easy as plugging in a lamp or other appliance.

Cable and phone connections: some RVs are equipped with connections for cable TV and telephone service when it is available at the park where you are staying. Note: these services are usually NOT included in the cost of your site and have to be separately purchased. These days you might also find Internet connections, although most parks that offer Internet service today do so through Wifi routers so all you need is the password to connect your wireless computer to the park's Internet service provider.  Many parks provide the WiFi service for free, but some may charge extra.

Internet connections:  many RV parks today offer free wi-fi service to their customers.  A few may charge extra.  Either way all you need is a wi-fi adapter on your computer to use it in your RV.  You'll need to get the password from the office and they may have multiple wi-fi routers and can tell you which one should give you the best performance at your specific camp site.  Although it is unlikely, you might run into an older campground with wired Internet.  To take advantage of it you'll either need an external Ethernet connector on the outside of your RV that is wired to a convenient connector inside or you'll need to run the Ethernet cable through a door or window.  Obviously wifi is a lot more convenient.  Some truck stops  and even fast food places also have wifi connections for customer use.  If you find you often don't get a good connection you may need to add a booster system within your RV.  The structure and even the wiring in the walls can sometimes interfere with the signal, especially if the signal is marginal to begin with.  There are literally miles of wiring inside the walls of large RVs and it all acts like an antenna for wifi signals, sometimes intercepting them before they reach your wireless adapter.  With that in mind you can sometimes improve marginal performance by placing your wifi antenna near a window.  Some RV parks have multiple wife networks and you might get better performance if you can identify the one nearest your site.  You should be told which wifi to use when  you get your password from the front desk.

Fueling: fueling a motorhome or the gas tank for the generator on a trailer isn't much different from fueling your car. First of all, make sure you are selecting the right fuel (gasoline or diesel) and the right grade for your equipment. Many RVs are equipped with dual fuel tanks and you'll want to fill them both before beginning a long trip. Make sure all the pilot lights inside the RV (water heater, furnace, refrigerator) are shut off before fueling. Otherwise you might blow yourself, your RV, your family, and half the neighborhood around the gas station to kingdom come! Identify the location of the filler door or cap BEFORE you need gas. That way you can make sure you are on the right side of the pumps and stop with the filler within reach of the hose. If you have two gas tanks, the fillers might be on both sides of the RV, necessitating moving the unit to fill the second tank. You might avoid this problem by running primarily on one tank and refilling before you need to switch. If you use this approach, alternate tanks to avoid letting fuel get old. Some RV owners have reported problems with slow filling. This can sometimes be overcome by raising one side of the RV, something that is probably only practical if you have a hydraulic leveling system. In a pinch, I have seen people drive up on their leveling blocks to raise one side of their RV. Do NOT overfill. Spilled gasoline represents a fire, environmental, and safety hazard and damages the finish on the side of your RV. Spilled fuel is slippery, so watch your step if you do accidentally let some escape onto the pavement and either wash it away with water or notify the attendant of the spill so he/she can deal with it.  Some RVs are notorious for being difficult to completely fill the fuel tanks.  The design of the tube from the gas cap inlet to the tank sometimes causes kickback that makes the pump think the tanks is full prematurely.  This can sometimes be mitigated by raising the side of the RV where the gas cap is located so fuel flows into the tank better.  Sometimes you can have the fuel filler line modifed to improve performance, but this usually isn't practical since the problem is the result of an overall design limitation.

Propane: another essential fuel for most RVs is propane. It is used to power the stove, furnace, hot water heater, and refrigerator. Yes, it is a flame that cools the refrigerator. If you really want to know how heat is used to cool, have a physics teacher explain it to you or look it up on the Internet. It is really rather interesting. Once again, before filling your propane, turn off all pilot lights and turn off the main valve on the propane tank. Propane must be filled by a qualified technician and they should usually ask you if all the pilot lights have been extinguished before they even connect the hose to fill your tank. Even propane tanks with OPDs (Overfill Protection Devices) have a bleed valve that must be opened to allow air to escape as the tank fills. When the tank reaches the rated capacity, a white vapor will escape from this valve. NEVER request nor allow the technician to keep filling after the vapor appears. An overfilled tank is dangerous and can lead to a fire or explosion. On top of that, any propane that does escape through pressure relief valves smells really bad, like rotten eggs and wastes money. I once had an inexperienced technician overfill the propane tank on my motorhome and it smelled terrible around it for weeks as the excess was released through the pressure relief valve!  Note that there is a small bleed valve on propane tanks that must be opened to allow air to bleed off while tanks are being filled. This should be done by the technician but if he/she has trouble filling your tank you could have them check.  When the tank is filled, visible white vapor will hiss out of the bleed valve, at which time they should stop filling the tank and close the bleed valve.   Make sure you turn the main valve back on before attempting to relight any appliances.  Should you EVER smell propane in or around your RV, keep all ignition sources away until the source can be identified and fixed. You may get a whiff of propane when you light the stove or oven and that is OK -- as long as you don't leave the gas on too long before igniting the burner.  If you have to relight an appliance, turn it off completely and wait the time specified by the manufacturer (usually 5 minutes) for vapors to clear before relighting it.  Attempting to relight it too soon may cause an explosion.  I personally know of at least one gentleman whose vacation was ruined when he tried to relight his furnace without waiting and received 2nd degree burns on his hands, arms, and face.  If you get a fairly strong and persistent propane smell inside your RV or the propane alarm goes off, first check to make sure all the knobs on the stove/oven are turned off.  Open some vents and windows to allow the propane to dissipate.  If all the knobs were completely closed, you'll have to search for and correct a more serious propane leak.

Gas detectors:  All RVs should have a propane detector located near the floor.  A carbon monoxide detector is also an important feature, especially if you have an on board generator.  CO detectors should be mounted at least 5' above the floor.  While propane is heavier than air, CO is lighter.  Be aware that propane detectors do sometimes false alarm.  They tend to be sensitive to after shave, cologne, and sometimes even hair spray.  I know of one RVer who eventually tracked down frequent propane false alarms to flatulence from his small dog who liked to nap near the detector.

Generators: 120 volt generators are marvelous additions to any RV. Most large motorhomes have them as standard equipment. Owners of trailers often have them added or bring along portable units. They are typically powered by the same fuel as the vehicle engine in motorhomes. Sometimes motorhomes with diesel engines have propane powered generators. The generator on most travel trailers will be propane powered since the only on board fuel is typically propane.   There is usually a Start/Stop switch inside the coach.  Sometimes it is on the dashboard, sometimes in the monitor panel.  Some fancier units have a second switch in the master bedroom.  There are also Start and Stop switches on the generator itself.  Most portable generators are gasoline powered. Generators consist of two major components: an engine and an electrical generator. The engine requires essentially the same kind of maintenance as the one that powers your motorhome or tow vehicle -- check the oil level and keep the air cleaner and fuel filters clean. Built-in generators are located in outside cabinets (look for a door that has an open grillwork) in motorhomes and trailers and they usually have a control panel inside the vehicle to start and stop the generator. Sometimes there are secondary controls located in the main bedroom. It can also be started or stopped from switches on the unit itself. If the generator doesn't start right away using the inside switch, you may be able to get it started by manually closing the choke on the engine while pressing the start button on the unit. Some generators may need to have their fuel systems primed. These units will have a switch on or near the fuel pump on the generator that needs to be activated until the fuel reaches the engine. Portable generators may have a pull-cord like a lawn mower for starting. More sophisticated (an expensive) ones may have an electric starter.  Many generators are connected to a receptacle in or near the power cable compartment.  You have to plug the shore power cable into the receptacle in order to deliver generator power to the RV.

 Automatic Transfer Switch.  A more sophisticated solution for using the generator includes an Automatic Transfer Switch that will make the connection for you when you fire up the generator.  The input from both the shore power cord and the generator feed the switch and the output goes to the 120-volt breaker panel.  Don't worry if the power doesn't come on as soon as you start the generator.  Most RV transfer switches are designed with a built-in delay of about 30 seconds to allow the generator motor to warm up a bit and stabilize before activating the switch so the coach gets power from the generator.

Generator Trouble-shooting. If the generator starts but you don't get any electricity inside the RV, the first thing to check is to make sure the shore power cord is plugged into the generator receptacle (usually located inside the compartment where the power cord is stored). Some RVs have automatic transfer switches that automatically switch from shore power to the generator when the generator is running and there won't be a generator receptacle. Automatic transfer switches typically have a built in delay to allow the generator engine to stabilize before applying a load, so don't expect power right away on these units. If the cord is plugged in  and time delay has expired and you still don't have power, check the circuit breakers. There are circuit breakers located on the generator itself and on the AC power panel inside the RV. Some outlets may be GFCI protected, just like the ones in your kitchen or bathroom at home. One GFCI outlet may protect other outlets on the same circuit, so if you don't have power, check and reset ALL the GFCI receptacles. If you still don't have power, you may need the assistance of a qualified RV technician or an electrician. Some units are equipped with an automatic transfer switch that switches between from shore power to the generator when the generator is running. If yours does not, you have to plug the shore power into the generator receptacle to power the coach. Forgetting to plug the power cord into the generator is a common mistake among novice and even experienced RVers.

Water Heater: water heaters are one of the features that add great comfort to RVing. They are typically propane powered but some may be electrically operated or at least have an auxiliary electric heating unit.  Most RV water heaters have a 6-gallon or, on some larger units, a 10-gallon capacity but on demand water heaters that provide unlimited hot water (as long as you don't run out of water) are becoming more popular.  Most modern water heaters have automatic piezio-electric igniters. For these units all that is necessary is to turn on the switch on the control panel inside the RV. If the water heater fails to ignite, a red light near the water heater switch will illuminate. The light should come on briefly when you first turn it on, then it will go out.  If it comes on again it indicates the water heater did not light.  Turn the switch off, wait a few minutes, and try again. If it repeatedly fails to light, make sure the main propane valve (located at the propane tank) is turned on and that there is propane in the tank and try again. If it still fails to light you may have to contact a qualified technician. These water heaters are computer controlled and you may need a new computer board. Some motorhomes have a neat pre-heat feature that uses engine heat to pre-heat the water heater while in route.  These rigs have extra long water heater hoses like those that run the normal automotive heater that run back to a heat exchanger built into the hot water heater.  The first time I encountered it I though I'd inadvertently left the water heater on in transit.  It is a nice feature if you have it, and one I sadly missed when our next motorhome didn't have it.  Unfortunately, it isn't something that can be easily added.  By the way, you can buy add-on electrical heating elements for most propane powered water heaters.  They usually install in place of the drain plug and are mostly intended to supplement the propane heating and reduce propane consumption, not replace the propane heater entirely.

Older water heaters may have a pilot light that must be manually lit. Open the door to the water heater (located on the outside of the RV). There will be a gas valve that needs to be turned to the "PILOT" position and depressed to allow gas to flow to ignite the pilot light. Once the flame is lit, keep the valve depressed for about one minute. This allows the flame to heat the thermocouple, a tube-like device above the flame. The thermocouple generates a small electrical current that feeds back to a solenoid in the gas valve that opens the gas valve. After sufficient time has elapsed for the thermocouple to warm up, turn the gas valve to the full "ON" position. The water heater should roar to life and begin heating your water. It is normal for a water heater flame to make a kind of roaring noise when operating properly.  If it fails to ignite, turn everything off, wait about five minutes and try again, making sure you allow sufficient time for the thermocouple to warm up before turning on the gas valve. If repeated attempts fail, the thermocouple may be faulty. These are usually pretty universal and inexpensive and it is good to have a spare on hand. They are easy to replace, usually just one screw that holds them in place and one wire that connects to the gas valve. Once again, make sure the main gas valve is turned on before calling a technician to further diagnose and repair the problem.

Should you leave the hot water heater on all the time?  That is a good question and one that is often hotly debated by RVers (pun intended!).  One argument says you will waste propane by keeping water hot all the time.  The opposing argument claims it takes more propane to heat up a fresh tank of cold water each time you want to  use than it does to keep it hot.  I've not seen any conclusive evidence to support either claim, but my personal preference is to leave it on so I  have hot water anytime I want it, without waiting a half hour or so for it to heat.  Sometimes I will even light the hot water heater before hitting the road so I'll have hot water for washing hands during the trip.  If I don't get it lit at the beginning of the trip it is one of the first things I do when I get to camp.


On demand water heaters are becoming more popular.  Generally more expensive than standard tank style water heaters, they have some advantages.  The main one is that they create continuous hot water on demand so you won't run out half way through your shower.  Since they don't keep water hot when it isn't being used they may save on propane too.  An older RV with a tank style heater can be retrofitted with an on demand unit, but the cost of the new unit and the conversion usually aren't cost effective.  Convenience is the main reason for conversion and you may get a bonus in a little savings in propane consumption if you normally leave your water heater on overnight when camping.

Furnaces: most RV furnaces these days are very simple to operate and modern units are controlled by a computer board. Just turn on the switch and set the thermostat. For some all you have to do is set the thermostat. Older models may have a pilot light that must be lit manually. Always make sure the main gas valve is turned on and follow the manufacturer's lighting instructions carefully. Please see my January, 2011 post on Emergency Repairs for trouble-shooting furnace problems. Most modern furnaces have 12-volt fans that deliver warm air to the coach and help bring fresh air into the combustion chamber. Older units may be "convection" furnaces that have no fans and rely on convection to distribute heat throughout the coach. It may seem illogical, but if your batteries get low, the furnace fan may continue to run after the burner shuts off, blowing cold air and further draining the batteries. If that happens, turn off the furnace and recharge your batteries as soon as you can.  You might also find your furnace blowing cold air if you run out of propane or if  your propane is turned off.  Always make sure the propane is turned on, and if you have  a coach equipped with a propane guage, check the guage to make sure you are not out of propane.

Refrigerators: RV refrigerators are typically propane powered, but many also run on 120 Volt A/C current. Most newer models automatically select AC mode whenever electricity is available (from shore power or the generator). Some even have a 12-volt mode so they can run off the vehicle alternator while on the road. Starting one of these units is as simple as setting the switch to "AUTO" (or to "GAS" if you want to avoid load on the generator). You may hear a clicking or popping sound as the piezio-electric igniter tries to light the burner. Some older models have "ELECTRIC" , "OFF", and "GAS" settings and with these there will be a "Push To Light" button you need to hold in when you turn the selector "GAS".  If the refrigerator fails to light, you may be able to get by for a time by running the generator and switching to AUTO or electric mode. If you need to run it on gas, the first thing to do is to make sure the main propane valve is open.  If it is then open the outside cover on the back of the refrigerator (outside the RV) and inspect the burner assembly. Sometimes insects or rodents or just debris will have contaminated the igniter and cleaning away the crap may be all that is needed to get it working. If it isn't dirty, or if cleaning it doesn't help, I'm afraid we're back to calling a qualified RV technician. It is likely there is a problem with the computer board that controls the refrigerator. Like older furnaces and hot water heaters, older refrigerators may have a pilot light that must be manually lit. One more "feature" of RV refrigerators: they like to be level. In fact, if they aren't sometimes they won't work at all, especially older models. So always try to level your RV as best you can. Newer models are less sensitive to this requirement than they used to be, but you still want to give it the best chance at doing its job well. The reason for being level has to do with the physics of how the coolant circulates. When the unit isn't level, the liquid coolant pools in low spots and blocks circulation. Because of constant motion while driving, being always level while moving isn't critical, so you don't have to worry that your fridge will stop working when you're going up or down a long hill.

Computer boards: we have mentioned that the furnace, water heater, and refrigerator in newer units, are all controlled by computer boards. That may seem a bit of overkill, but it adds greatly to the convenience and reliability of these units over older models. Fortunately, there is something called a "Dinosaur board" that your RV tech can use to replace faulty boards in just about any of these devices. They aren't cheap -- usually around $100 or so, but are a lot less expensive than replacing a whole unit! So when the RV tech talks about a "Dinosaur board" he isn't insulting the age of your appliance, he is recommending a state-of-the-art replacement part that can get your unit functioning properly again and usually at less cost and quicker than using OEM parts. Mobile technicians often carry some Dinosaur boards in their vans whereas it wouldn't be practical for them to stock OEM boards for every appliance.

Leveling your RV: how important is leveling your RV? Well, the affects of being in an off-kilter RV can be exasperating: things rolling off tables, yourself rolling out of bed or sliding to one end -- or if the head of the bed is downhill, you may get a throat full of vile tasting bile and stomach acid or last night's dinner before morning if you're sleeping with your head downhill! Definitely not pleasant nor conducive a good night's sleep. In addition, most RV refrigerators are "absorption" refrigerators and need to be almost perfectly level when stationary to operate properly. Some of the newer models are not as sensitive as the older units, but for maximum efficiency, you want even the best units as level as possible.

Now we've established the "WHY" let's talk about the "HOW" of leveling. Sophisticated luxury motorhomes have automatic hydraulic levelers. You just push one button and a computer-controlled leveling system extends the hydraulic jacks and adjusts them until the unit is level. There are also manual hydraulic leveling systems out there where owner manipulates each jack separately via a control panel inside the RV until the unit is level.   Extending the jacks is usually a two-stage process.  In stage one, the jacks are moved from the horizontal storage position to the vertical position for use.  The user should put jack boots under the jacks at this time, before lifting the vehicle. Jack boots are pads that enlarge the footprint so the jack doesn't press into the ground.  In stage two, the jacks extend, lifting the vehicle until it is level.  Automatic systems lift each corner until the unit is level.  With manual systems, the operator moves each of 4 levers until the yellow light at each one goes out.  When all the lights are out, the vehicle should be level.  It is a good idea to verify that the vehicle is level using bubble levels.  There are also non-powered mechanical leveling jacks which are mostly used on travel trailers but sometimes adapted by innovative owners to motorhomes. These have to be manually extended and "jacked" until the RV is level.  Sometimes these have the form of a scissors jack that is raised and lowered by a crank handle.  A second advantage to any of these jack-based leveling systems is that it stabilizes the RV so it doesn't bounce on its own springs from movement of people inside or winds outside. A note of CAUTION: always block the tires before raising your RV on hydraulic jacks. They will sometimes take all the weight off the rear wheels, effectively negating any effect of the parking brake and allow the RV to roll off the jacks! Not good for the jacks or the RV -- or the owner's or any bystander's nerves!

A less complex and less expensive alternative is the use of leveling blocks. Several types are available from RV stores or you can make your own from 2x6 or 2x8 lumber. Some commercial leveling blocks are made of plastic, some of metal, some of wood. Check the capacity of any blocks you may purchase to be sure they can hold the weight of your vehicle. Leveling blocks are used by placing blocks on the low side or low end of the vehicle and driving the vehicle up onto the blocks. Place the blocks directly in line with the tires. Use two matching blocks on dual tires. Never run just one of the duals up on a block as it will put unusual stress on the wheel and axle, which could bend them! It is helpful to have an assistant outside the RV guide you so you don't go to far and roll off the end of the blocks. You can sometimes eye-ball how high the blocks have to be to get your unit level, but for the most part, it takes a lot of trial and error, which is one reason hydraulic leveling systems came into being. There is a device available at RV stores that you can set on the table inside your RV and adjust wedges on each corner to determine how high the blocks need to be at each location to level your unit. Although this type of leveling doesn't take weight off the wheels it is still a good idea to block the tires once the RV has been leveled, just for safety. If you are using leveling blocks you may want to stabilize your RV to avoid the bouncy effects of moving around inside or wind. Stabilizers usually come in a set of 4 and are mostly used with travel trailers, but might be effective on motorhomes if they aren't too high off the ground. They are aluminum pyramids with adjustable tops like a big bolt that are put in direct contact with the four corners of an RV so the body is braced against the ground, preventing it from rocking on its own springs and suspension.

An alternative method for leveling, if you are boondocking on raw terrain, is to dig a hole on the high side or end for your tires to drive down into. This is a tedious, dirty, and time-consuming process.  It can also result in getting your RV stuck, especially if it rains while you're parked in the holes and leaves holes that can a problem for future users.  Leveling blocks are much easier to use.  Sometimes, in unpaved, primitive camp sites, I've seen RVers dig holes to lower a high corner or high side.  This isn't an acceptable practice in any developed campground even if it isn't paved and is quite time and labor intensive.  Blocks are much faster and easier to use.  The only downside to using leveling blocks is they don't stabilize the body.  For that you need stabilizing jacks in addition to leveling blocks to keep the body from bouncing on the suspension during vigorous activities or high winds.  Scissor jacks are often used to level and stabilize travel trailers, but usually don't have sufficient lifting capacity for motorhomes.  However, they can be used to stabilize motorhomes after the major leveling has been achieved using leveling blocks.  You can also buy adjustable stabilizer jacks you can put under each corner to control rocking.  They are usually stackable to minimize the space they take up during transport.  There are various designs of permanently mounted stabilizer jacks available too, but they often require drilling and/or welding for installation.  However, being permanently attached to the frame, they are more convenient to use.  That also makes them more stable and secure.

Stabilizing your RV.   Stabilizing an RV keeps it from swaying in the wind or bouncing around from activity inside.  If you have a hydraulic leveling system, your RV will be stabilized at the same time it is leveled because the leveling jacks are attached to the frame.  If you use leveling blocks, your RV will still be resting on its suspension and can tilt in the wind or bounce on the springs.  You can use stabilizer jacks to prevent this.  They typically come in a set of 2 or 4 and consist of tapered aluminum stands with large threaded rods in the top of each stand.  You can adjust the height by screwing the rods up or down.  To stabilize a vehicle, adjust the rods so the top is almost touching a solid point on the body or frame.  Then continue screwing the rod higher until it securely presses against where it contacts the vehicle.  These devices are not designed to level a vehicle, only to stabilize them. You should not try to lift the RV with the adjusting screw.  Just snug it up so the stabilizer is in direct contact with the RV body.  If you attempt to lift the RV using a stabilizer you will damage the stabilizer and could create a hazardous situation.

Awnings: many RVs have roll-up awnings on the passenger side that provide an instant patio next to the RV when extended. Primarily used for shade, they can also provide protection from rain if aligned so that rain doesn't puddle on them. To allow rain to run off, lower one outer corner of the awning. Luxury motorhomes may have electrically operated awnings that extend or retract at the push of a button, but most are manually operated and require specific procedures to extend and retract them. Different models may have different controls, but here are some typical things to look for. First, there should be some kind of locks on the awning arms that reach from the roller tube down the side of the RV. These must be released before the awning can be extended. Next there is usually some kind of locking device on the roller tube itself. Some awnings have a lever, usually at the forward end of the awning, that just be moved to the DOWN position. For some awnings you have to lift the arms to allow the roller tube to swing away from the RV. Once the roller tube is free, pull the awning open like you would a window blind. You may have to use an awning wand to reach a loop in the end of a strap in the middle of the awning. Most awnings come with a solid steel wand.  Telescoping wands are also available that are easier to store.  I tried one and the very first time I used it the "L" shaped fitting in the end pulled right out of the tube so I went back to the steel wand.   Pull the awning all the way out. The arms will swing away from the top of the RV and, when the awning is fully extended, be at an angle. There are braces inside each of the arms that must be installed. Starting at end of the brace nearest the roller tube, push the end of the brace back down the arm toward the bottom of the RV until the awning fabric is held tight. Then tighten the screw knobs on the braces to keep them in place. You can then unlock the arms and lift the roller tube up to the desired height and re-lock the arms. The arms will telescope to allow the roller tube to be lifted into place. Alternatively, you can disconnect the bottom of the arms from the RV and put them on the ground so the supports are vertical rather than angled back toward the RV. If you choose this option, the feet of the arms should be staked to the ground to prevent them from moving around when a breeze hits the awning or someone bumps into the arms. Awning clamps are a good accessory to use. They clamp to the fabric and then fasten to the awning arms to reduce the flapping of the awning fabric. There are also awning anchoring systems that consist of long straps and stakes to further secure the awning in high winds. The stakes are large corkscrew shaped gadgets like those used for doggy chains.  You screw them into the ground and connect the strap to them to hold the awning down.  For my money, if the winds get that high, I'd prefer to put the awning away! A very popular and useful accessory for your awning is an awning mat (see below). This is a mat or length of grass-like outdoor carpet you roll out under your awning to further define your patio and reduce tracking dirt, mud, and debris into your coach.

Reverse the procedure to roll the awning back up for travel. Keep the fabric tight as it rolls up. If it isn't tight once it is all rolled up, pull it all the way back out and roll it up again, keeping a little tension on the roller tube so it rolls tight. NEVER, EVER travel with an awning extended. And make sure the roller tube and the arms are securely locked!  Try not to put the awning away wet.  If you must roll up a wet awning due to pressing travel plans, open it up again and let it dry before storing the RV when you get home to avoid development of nasty mildew and fungus. And keep an eye on that awning when you're on the road.  If it starts to unroll, the wind will eventually pull out enough fabric to rip the whole shebang off the RV, creating a significant amount of damage.  If it starts to unroll, stop and re-roll it.  If it is still loose, try tying it with twine or securing it with duct tape.  There are aftermarket locking kits that can be added to most awnings to keep them secure during travel.

Bag awnings: so-called because they are stored in a bag instead of permanently attached to the side of the RV. There will usually be an "awning rail" along the top of the RV that the awning slides into. This style of awning typically uses tent pole type supports at the outside corners (away from the RV) and requires ropes and stakes to keep the fabric taught and hold the awning in place. The greatest advantage to bag awnings is low cost -- and portability, because they can be easily used on different RVs. One of the least expensive and simplest form of bag awning is the dining fly. This is a light weight stand alone canopy mostly designed to be set up to provide shade for your picnic table. They are typically 12 to 16 feet square and are supported by light weight aluminum tent poles and secured with ropes and stakes.

Awnings are subject to serious flapping when the wind picks up.  You can control light winds using awning "deflappers", which clamp to the rafters and grip with awning fabric to hold it tight and reduce movement.  High winds may pull the fabric from the grip of the deflappers so always roll up the awning before the winds get too strong.  An awning strap  is also available to tie the whole awning down to the ground using screw in anchors like dog chains.  They are harder to use but should stand up to stronger winds.  Even so, you'll still want to put the awning away during periods of high wind to avoid serious damage.  Not sure when to put it away?  Better safe than sorry -- put it away long before the wind gets above a gentle breeze.  It will be really hard to roll it up and stow it properly when the wind catches it.

E-Z Ups. These are standalone awnings that have the awning fabric permanently attached to a folding framework to make setup and take down quick and, as the name implies, easy.  EZ-ups are not connected to the RV.

Window and door awnings: many RVs are equipped with window awnings that provide shade and rain protection, sometimes allowing windows be be kept open in the rain. Window awnings are very simple to operate. Like the patio awnings there is a strap with a loop in the middle of the awning. Using the awning hook, pull the strap to unroll the awning. Then anchor the strap to the matching hook to secure the awning in place. Door awnings are similar to window awnings, but because the door opens, the anchor point for the strap has to be on one side instead of in the middle. Release the strap from its hook to roll up the awning for travel. Roll it up slowly, keeping some tension on the strap so the fabric rolls tightly. NEVER travel with any awnings extended.

Slide-out:  a portion of an RV that can be extended out when the RV is parked to increase interior space.  Slide outs are often used in living rooms, galleys, and bedrooms.  Some RVs have multiple slide outs creating relatively cavernous space inside.  If you have one or more slide outs you will want to make sure you have sufficient clearance to open them when choosing a camp site and parking your RV.  A handy way to check clearance is to use the awning wand you use to open your patio awning.  Extend your slide out all the way, then measure the distance using the wand and mark the maximum extension using tape or a marker.  Then you can easily test the clearance of a site before attempting to extend the slide out and avoid the damage you might get if it hit an obstacle.   While modern slideouts appeared in the early 1990s there is a 1915 Model A Ford in the RV Museum that includes a "telescoping apartment" so they've actually been around a long time.

Slide-out awnings: these days many RVs are equipped with slide outs that greatly expand the living space inside. Many of these slide outs are equipped with awnings that automatically extend and retract with the slide out. These awnings protect the top of the slide out, helping keep rain from intruding and keeping debris from collecting on the top of the slide where it would get jammed in the mechanism when the slide is retracted.  Normally they function automatically, but make sure there isn't any debris on or under them before retracting the slide out.

Awning mats: whether you have permanently attached awnings or use a bag awning, you will find an awning mat is a welcome accessory. Together with your awning, your awning mat creates a very usable patio for your RV. Awning mats are available in a variety of colors to match or complement your RV and/or your awning. For years I've used the grass-style indoor-outdoor carpet, available in bulk at home centers. I have found it to be less expensive than awning mats at RV stores and I can buy it in any length I need to match my awning. One little problem with awning mats, is that they are susceptible to wind. Unless they are anchored with rocks or stakes they will billow and even blow away. I installed brass grommets in the corners and strategically spaced along both long sides and use huge nails (10-12") with washers to secure the mat to the ground. The strategic spacing I mentioned includes anchors that line up on either side of the RV step so the mat doesn't blow up and become a tripping hazard when entering and exiting the RV. Awning mats not only define a pleasant patio area but help to reduce the amount of dirt and sand that gets tracked into the RV. This is particularly useful when boondocking or camping in unpaved sites.  If you don't opt for a full size awing mat, at least use a comfortably sized welcome mat to reduce tracking dirt and debris into your rig.

Air conditioners: RV air conditioners are typically located on the roof of the RV. The most effective are 120-volt AC powered refrigerated AC units. These, of course, require either shore power or running the generator. Some units equipped with multiple A/C units can only operate one of the units at a time, especially if running on 30-amp shore power. Often these units have a switch somewhere to select which unit is powered an any given time. There are sophisticated (and expensive) power management systems that can alternately switch between multiple air conditioners. Sometimes it is possible to run both units when the generator is running, or, when running one on shore power, to run the other via the generator. The controls for most RV A/C units are on the units themselves. Typically there separate fan and temperature controls. Some luxury units have a wall-mounted thermostat similar to the one in your home. A word of caution: if you generator shuts off or your power cord gets disconnected while the A/C is running, turn off the A/C BEFORE reconnecting the power and let it rest for a few minutes (at least five) before turning it back on. Pressure builds up in the compressor and the unit or your generator can be damaged if it attempts to start up before the pressure can bleed off. Most RV A/Cs are direct discharge.  That is, they blow cold air directly into the living space through vents in the bottom of the roof mounted A/C unit.  However, there are also ducted A/C units that distribute the air more evenly into different parts of the coach.  Direct discharge units have been around providing adequate service for a very long time.  If you would like to move cool are around in your RV you can use portable 12-volt fans.

Just like there are evaporative coolers ("swamp" coolers) for your home, they are also available for RVs. They typically do not cool as well as refrigerated air but have the advantage that they run solely on 12-volt power and water. They work best in hot (above 85F), dry climates and pretty much not at all in high humidity. The only control is usually a fan switch. You may want to avoid this type of unit if you plan to go where the roads are uneven and your unit may be subject to bouncing or swaying since the water reservoir is shallow and water can spill inside the unit fairly easily. We had one on a Class C motorhome and the occupants riding in the coach were often doused on sharp turns or sudden stops. I also had one on an enclosed motorcycle trailer that worked pretty well, but eventually I installed a "real" 120-volt refrigerated A/C unit for better performance after adding a dedicated circuit to the motorhome I could plug it into.  You need to leave at least one window partly open when running a swamp cooler.  They draw fresh air in and need someplace for the old,  saturated air to go.  If the unit is all closed up it will get pressurized and you won't get much air flow or cooling.  To some extent you can direct the flow of cool air by which windows you open.

Entertainment systems may run the gamut, from a simple in-dash radio to a complete home theater system. Some may run on 12-volt DC power from the batteries, but larger TV systems usually require 120-volt AC power, which comes from shore power, your generator, or from a device called an inverter. An inverter converts 12-volt DC power to 120-volt AC power. You must have a lot of reserve battery power to be able to use an inverter to power a large entertainment system. That is usually supplied by a bank of 6-volt golf cart batteries wired with pairs in series to provide 12-volt power. Golf cart batteries work better and last longer than 12-volt RV Deep Cycle batteries. Satellite systems are a popular option among many RVers. There are portable antennas that can be set on the ground outside your RV and roof mounted antennas for permanent installation. Roof mounted antennas may be manually or automatically aligned. Automatic units allow viewing satellite channels while traveling. Manual units can only be used while the vehicle is stationary. Some TVs have built-in DVD and/or VHS players. If yours does not, you can add separate players. Since I have both DVD and VHS movies, I chose a combination DVD/VHS player to simplify wiring and usage. I found the remote control especially useful since the player is mounted near the main TV in the living area at the front of the coach but supplies a signal to the TV in the bedroom in back as well. For maximum flexibility, someday I may add a separate DVD/VHS player in the bedroom. That way people up front and in the bedroom could view two different movies if they wanted to.  A convenient and relatively affordable solution these days are flat panel LCD TVs.  They are light weight, take up little room, and fairly energy efficient.  You can even get them with built in DVD players for even more convenience.  If you enjoy concert hall or theater sound, there are several options for updating the sound system in your RV.  One of the easiest, most convenient, and cost effective methods I've found is called a Sound Bar.  It is small, light weight, and while it won't match the sheer power of a large speaker system  it delivers an amazingly full and rich sound far beyond the little speakers built in to most TVs.

Battery systems are used to provide power for lights and some 12-volt appliances when there is not outside source of power. Motorhomes usually have two separate battery systems -- a starting battery for the vehicle engine and one or more coach or house batteries to power the lights and appliances in the living space. Travel trailers, of course, don't require a starting battery. The trailer connector to the vehicle may include a 'hot' wire to charge the house batteries while driving. Any time you have more than one battery system, they should be separated by a battery isolator. These devices allow charging of both sets of batteries while the vehicle engine is running but isolate the systems in camp so using the lights and appliances only draws on the house battery system and will not deplete the starting battery. In some motorhomes there is a push-button that temporarily connects the house and starting batteries so you can use the house batteries to jump start the vehicle or the starting battery to aid in starting the generator, which usually uses the house batteries as its starting batteries. I've seen motorhomes where the generator had its own dedicated starting battery, but that is not a very common configuration. When I encountered it on one of my motorhomes I reconfigured the batteries and wiring so the generator starting battery was part of the house battery bank, giving me more available battery capacity in camp. House batteries are usually 12-volt deep cycle batteries. Two or more can be wired in parallel to increase capacity. 6-volt golf cart batteries are sometimes wired in series to supply 12-volt power. Golf cart batteries tend to be stronger and last longer than 12-volt deep cycle batteries. In a pinch you can use an ordinary car battery to power your RV systems, but they are not designed to handle the frequent discharging and recharging as efficiently as deep cycle and golf cart batteries and will wear out and fail sooner.  If you get stuck out in the boondocks with a dead starting battery you can use your house batteries to start your vehicle. I once helped a fellow camper reconfigure the batteries on the truck hauling his camper. His starting battery was dead, but his camper battery, which was housed under the hood, was still strong. We simply swapped the two batteries to get him home. Deep cycle batteries don't usually provide the same level of "Cold Cranking Amps" as starting batteries for starting big vehicle engines and starting batteries won't stand up to the constant depletion/charging that occurs with house batteries so it is important to use the right type of batteries in each situation, except in an emergency.

Converters. Most RVs are equipped with a converter that converters 120-volt AC power from city hookups or a generator to 12-volt DC power to run 12 volt lights and appliances. Many converters also have a modest battery charging circuit to help keep batteries charged during storage. Unless your converter has a high-amp, multi-stage battery charger, it will not be very good at recharging depleted batteries.

Inverters. More and more RVs are being equipped with inverters. These perform a function opposite from a converter. They change 12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power to run 120 volt appliances without having to fire up the generator. You need a very large and powerful battery bank to support inverter use. A 10 amp, 12-volt appliance will draw 120 watts of battery power. A 10 amp, 120-volt appliance will draw 1200 watts of power. If you're running that through an inverter it is going to suck up MORE than 1200 watts of batter power since the inverter is less than 100% efficient.

Most lighting is via 12-volt fixtures both inside and outside the RV. Power is supplied by the vehicle alternator when the engine is running or through the converter if the vehicle is connected to shore power or the generator is running. When no other source of power is available, it comes from the coach batteries. Some RVs include a few 120-volt lights which can only be used when 120-volt power is available. Lights are not usually connected to inverters because incandescent bulbs are horribly inefficient -- only about 10% effective as lights and about 90% effective as heaters! Running them from an inverter is a big waste of battery power. You're much better off using your 12-volt lights directly.  Replacing energy hungry incandescent bulbs with LEDs can reduce the drain on you batteries while dry camping.  Some older truck campers and travel trailers had propane light fixtures but you seldom see them these days.  Most units that once had them have switched over to 12 volt lights.

Driving an RV is fundamentally the same as driving any other vehicle, but it is a lot bigger. You need to be aware of the increased height, width, length and weight of your vehicle. You will need to make wider turns. You will feel the effects of wind or turbulence from passing trucks more keenly. The large, heavy vehicle will accelerate more slowly and need more room to stop. Many motorhomes and travel trailers have a long overhang in back that can swing further than you might expect. I've seen the whole rear cap ripped off a class A motorhome when a novice driver turned away from the curb too quickly and the rear end swung to the right and caught on a fireplug! That long overhang also will often cause the back bumper and trailer hitch (and sometimes dump valves!) to drag going in and out of driveways. You can minimize the risk by going at an angle instead of straight in and out. Trailers will "cheat" on you when turning. What that means is they will turn tighter than the tow vehicle instead of following its track exactly, so turn wide when towing. If you keep these differences in mind you should adapt pretty quickly to driving a motorhome or towing a trailer. Take it easy at first. Driving 55 mph will save you a lot of fuel in a heavy vehicle and give you more time to react if something unexpected happens. You may need a "ground guide" to assist you when backing up and NEVER try to back up if you're towing anything but a 2-wheeled trailer. Do NOT try to back up when towing a car on all fours or on a tow dolly. You cannot control a four-wheeled "trailer". A simple trick when backing a normal trailer is to move the bottom of the steering wheel in the direction you want the back end of the trailer to move.  If you aren't comfortable driving  your RV, check with your local RV store or club to find RV driving schools.  You will sometimes find them at RV rallies or trade shows too.  Typically you train in your own RV and it usually only takes a few hours to complete the course.  You might even save a little on  your insurance if you have completed a recognized driver training course.

Never stop learning!