Wecome To RVs and OHVs

This blog is all about RVs (recreational vehicles) and OHVs (Off Highway Vehicles), camping, sailing, and survival
and how they work together to provide wholesome family fun and great learning opportunities.
Many posts are intended to familiarize novice campers and RVers with RV systems and basic camping and survival
skills. But even experienced RVers and campers will enjoy the anecdotes and may even benefit from a new
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Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Does your RV, boat, or camp kit need to be put on a diet?

As time goes by, we all tend to collect things that clutter our homes and our lives; and RVs, boats, and camp kits are no exception.   In fact, they seem to be especially prone to accumulating unnecessary stuff. There is a real, bonafide advantage to adding useful tools and supplies to our RVs or camp kits when we notice deficiencies. I have even found it useful to make a list of things I wish I had on board on each trip. However, over time, all those "good ideas" can add a lot of weight and clutter to your RV or camping gear. It is a good idea to unpack and repack your stuff periodically. How often you do this will depend on how often you use your RV, boat, or camp kit and how much of a pack rat you are. Even if everything you take out goes back in, going through it is a good exercise to help you remember what you have on board and where it is -- and to make sure it is still serviceable and accessible.  Some items deteriorate over time.  Soft goods may suffer from pest infestations or simply rot.  Tools may get rusty.  Supplies may become outdated and unusable.  It is a good opportunity to organize cabinets or containers so what you do keep is in a logical place where you can find it and where it can be easily accessed. Take advantage of doing this inventory to verify the condition of each item and repair or replace worn, outdated, or damaged items. If you don't remember it is there, can't find it, it is outdated, damaged, or you can't get to it, it would be better off at home instead of adding to the weight and clutter on the road and in camp.

Weight control and reduction is usually more of an issue with RVs than with tent camping gear. Stuff squirreled away in cabinets and cupboards gets hidden, forgotten, and ignored and tends to build up over time. Out of sight, out of mind.  You probably have no idea some stuff is even there unless you go through your cabinets regularly.  Lugging our bins of tent camping supplies between the garage and the car and from the car to the camp site makes us more aware when we begin to bring along too much stuff. Even so, it is a good idea to go through your bins regularly and cull out things you don't really need -- and make sure you do have everything you do need.

Weight reduction is even more important to boaters.  Added weight means added displacement, which puts your boat lower in the water, affecting performance, handling, and safety.  So getting rid of unnecessary clutter is pretty critical for boaters.

When choosing which things to keep and which to retire, you will always want to keep critical tools that are either 1) used frequently or 2) essential to keeping your RV. boat, or OHV functioning or 3) may be needed in an emergency. Some of the criteria I use in deciding on discretionary items include size and weight, utility, and frequency of use. Small, light weight, multi-function tools that are frequently used will always find a home in my RV, boat, or camp kit. Large, heavy, single-use items that get only occasional use are clear candidates to go back on the shelf in the garage until there is a trip where they are expected to be needed. If they spend too much time on that shelf, maybe they should go into the garage sale instead of the garage shelf! At any rate, they probably don't belong in your RV, boat, or camp kit if you aren't using them regularly.  However, if you have something you do use now and then, be sure to store it properly so it will be in good condition and you can find it the next time you do want to use it.  If you can't find it, you might as well leave it home and save the weight of carting it around!

I personally have a difficult time reducing the weight of my tool box. I fear that as soon as I take something out I'm going to need it. And too often that has proven itself to be true. When it comes to tools, I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it. Still, I try to be selective about what goes in and sometimes I find new multi-use gadgets that can replace more than one old tool. That is always a happy time! Every time you go through your tools, make sure they are clean, in good condition, and stored in the right place and well organized so they'll be ready to use when you need them. Redundant or duplicate tools are good candidates for culling -- unless there is a very good reason for having them.

As you go through your RV, boat, or camp kit, be sure to check the expiration dates on your provisions. Some non-perishable goods have a very long shelf life. However the temperature swings in an RV can have a negative effect on the quality and longevity of many items. Some things are easy to recognize when they go bad. Flour gets weevils (ugly little bugs) and develops a rancid smell. Sugar hardens into cement-like chunks. Honey crystalizes, but can be recovered in hot water. NEVER microwave honey. It damages its nutritional value. Canned goods are more difficult to evaluate. However, any can that is bulging, rusted, or leaking is a dead giveaway that it should be tossed in the trash can before its foul contents make you sick or dead! Not long ago I read how prepared baking mixes can go bad once they've past their expiration dates, creating serious health hazards, even death, for people who may be sensitive to a specific type of mold that finds them to be an ideal environment. If you're like me, you hate to throw food away. But is saving the few dollars a new box of Bisquik costs worth risking the health of you and your family?  Even if all it does is make you sick for a day or so it isn't worth ruining an outing to save a couple of bucks.  As always, better safe than sorry!

Another candidate for periodic thinning is clothing. If you, like my family, tend to accumulate favorite camping clothes in the RV, you may soon find you have more than you need -- or have room for! Here is another place where having too many things is almost like not having them at all since you probably don't remember what is there or where it is when you want to use it. Stuff jammed into closets or drawers makes it really hard to use. It is likely to be wrinkled or may have mildewed or gotten infested by insects or may just smell bad from body and cooking odors from the last time it was used.  Making judicious wardrobe choices will ensure you have adequate options without overfilling your closets and drawers and that you know what you have and where it is. Once again, if you can't get it when you want it -- or don't even remember it is there -- it is better off left at home! Over-stuffed closets or drawers also mean wrinkled and therefore often unusable clothes, so keep things neat!

When it comes to saving weight, consider that water weights about 8 lbs per gallon. If your RV holds 100 gallons, that 800 pounds. Even the 25 gallon tank in a little Class C weighs in at 200 pounds.  If you're headed to the boondocks for a week, you definitely want all that water on board before you get there. But if your destination is an RV park with full hookups, a fraction of that is all you need for enroute use and you'll save fuel. Consider whether there is an opportunity to top off your fresh water tank near your destination to reduce traveling weight for as long a possible.

Keeping your holding tanks empty is another way to save weight. A large part of the sewage is water, so dumping, say 50 gallons of sewage, will shed about 400 pounds immediately. There is NO advantage to carrying sewage around with you. Emptying the holding tanks frequently not only reduces weight but minimizes the potential for sewer odors to make their way inside your RV.  You may incur extra dump fees and use extra chemicals to dump more often, but you'll probably make at least a large part of it up in reduced fuel consumption.  Clean holding tanks are also less likely to generate unpleasant odors or to rupture.  I've seen full holding tanks on a travel trailer fall out onto the highway on a hot summer day when the heat from the pavement combined with the weight of the contents caused the tanks to sag, pulling them out of their brackets in the frame.  It was very inconvenient, unpleasant and expensive for the owner.

Although the amount of weight you'll shave off your RV by washing away dirt is not likely to significant (unless you've been mud-womping or something!), a clean surface creates less wind resistance than a dirty one. Given the huge surface are of an RV, even a small improvement in air flow can improve mileage and performance. Keeping your RV clean is also a good way to check for potential problems like deteriorating caulk before it leads to leaks that can cause serious damage to your coach. If you park your RV outside, like most people do, the roof is subject to all sorts of nasty things. Broken branches falling on it can make ugly holes (been there, done that, never want to do it again!). Bird droppings can stain and even permanently damage some roof surfaces and everyday sunlight will dry out caulk, vents, A/C covers, etc and can permanently damage unprotected rubber roofs. Did you know that dirt traps damaging sunlight and speeds deterioration of paint? An acquaintance of mine, who ran an auto paint shop, said he gave his customers a lifetime guarantee on clear-coat IF they would wash their cars at least once every two weeks. That coating of dirt and road film is not only unsightly, but actually speeds the breakdown of the paint underneath it. I know, washing an RV is not an easy task. In fact, its a lot like washing a house! But it is something that is well worth the effort and is a lot easier if done often instead of waiting for the paint to become badly oxidized and the decals all cracked and faded. Proper cleaning can also be a safety issue. Windows, mirrors, and lights (including clearance lights) need to be clean to be most effective. And, if you drive your motorhome or tow vehicle in snow, make sure you clean the snow and road crud that accumulates off your headlights and taillights. I've seen snow reduce headlights by more than 50%. You almost need to get out and light a match just to see if the headlights are on! 

Unwanted hitch hikers often cling to the bottom of boats, both adding weight and increasing drag.  You usually don't collect a lot of mud on boats, but algae and other marine critters often adhere to the hull, rudder, etc. and should be kept removed as soon and as often as practical.

Souvenirs. We all tend to collect souvenirs of our trips, whether it be silver spoons, shot glasses, maps, or just plain rocks it all adds weight we don't need to keep packing around on every trip. Take out your souvenirs and store them safely at home. Some "souvenirs" might be unintentional, like accumulations of debris in the undercarriage. You definitely want to remove that! It not only adds weight, but can cause corrosion that can damage your vehicle.

Here is a list of 10 Things To Leave Behind as recommended by the nationally famous KOA Campground organization. Consider these good suggestions and a starting place.  However, don't take it out just because it is on this list.  But if it is on the list, make sure you have a very good legitimate reason for keeping it.

If you tow any kind of toy hauler you'll want to do the same kind of weight reduction on your toys and your trailer. And don't forget to go through your back packs, fanny packs, and fender bags periodically too.

Firewood is a candidate to be picked up on the way or purchased from the camp store. It is bulky and heavy and often messy and you're a lot better off forking over the $4.00 or so for a bundle of fire wood at the campground if it is available.  If you're boondocking you may not have the option to buy firewood in or near camp and then you have to bring it along, despite the issues. It is often tempting to drag along a bunch of scrap lumber to use for firewood, but it may not be worth the added weight and the hassle.  And nice pine or cedar firewood will make a lot more enjoyable fire.

Downsize packages and provisions. Go for convenience condiment packages instead of full-size bottles. Buy sodas in light weight aluminum cans instead of heavy glass bottles. You may buy basic ingredients like sugar and flour in large bags for home, but transfer only the amount you need to plastic bags or storage containers to bring along. A couple of cans of soup is probably enough for "just in case" meals. Don't shove a whole case under the sofa! Powdered drink mixes might help cut down on how much soda you're carrying, but you're going to need the water to mix it with anyway. If you'll be in a campground with hookups or with water available to fill your fresh water tanks you won't need to leave home with 800 lbs of water.  Hang on to those little packets of condiments from your favorite fast food place and substitute them for large, heavy bottles of mustard and ketchup.

One area I don't recommend skimping on is fuel. Sure, you might save a few pounds by only half filling your gas tank, but it will mean more frequent gas stops and the possibility of running out of fuel at a very inconvenient time and place.  My dad used to say "It doesn't cost any more to keep the top half full than it does to keep the bottom half full."  Keeping a tank full will also minimize the chances of condensation inside the tank, which can affect fuel quality and engine performance.  And, if you can fill up where fuel is relatively cheap instead of having to pay exorbitant prices for fuel in remote locations, you will probably save more money than you would be reducing the weight of fuel on board.  Speaking of fuel prices, don't let the search for the lowest price cause you to drive extra miles or create extra stress.  Even with a 100 gallon tank on a big motorhome,  3 cents a gallon only amounts to $3.00 per fill up.  Is saving $3.00 really worth the stress of worrying about running out of fuel or wasting time driving around looking for that bargain price?  And given the average mpg of motorhomes and tow vehicles, you don't have to drive very many extra miles to spend at least as much more on wasted fuel as you might save, let alone the time wasted.  In my book, convenience and saving time out weighs getting the lowest price.  And sometimes those low price fuels don't work well in RVs and tow vehicles anyway.  It is true that the fuel at many discount stations comes from the same refineries as brand names, but there is sometimes a difference it additives blended in brand names that affect performance.

Lighten up!

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