Emergency RV Repairs

If you go RV-ing, you can count on having some technical problems sooner or later. If you only camp in commercial campgrounds with full hookups and near civilization you may have mobile RV services readily available to assist you. Sometimes there are mechanics on staff at large resorts and sometimes the manager or other member of the staff may have some helpful skills.  If you do a lot of “boondocking” – camping in primitive campgrounds in remote locations, you will likely have to fend for yourself – at least for a time. Some mobile RV repair services are able to come to remote locations, but don’t count on it and expect to pay a premium for the service if you can get it. Check your Emergency Road Service (ERS) too. Some will not provide service in remote locations or even off paved highways.  And ERS programs are typically designed to provide assistance with mechanical problems with your vehicle, such as a dead starting battery, flat tire, or out of gas.  Problems with other RV systems are usually beyond the scope of ERS policies.

Mechanical problems: consider this: a motorhome has all the same systems as both your car and your house and more so think about the problems you have with them and figure sooner or later you're going to have all the same problems -- and more -- that you have with them. Your motor home – or the vehicle you tow your trailer with, are subject to the same mechanical failures as any other motor vehicle. Your best defense against failure is proper maintenance. Rubber components such as tires, belts, and hoses, are among the most common points of failure if not properly maintained and should be checked frequently and replaced if showing signs of wear or deterioration. Other typical problems may include running out of fuel, dead batteries, and flat tires. Not all RVs come with spare tires. If yours did, make sure you check it regularly to ensure it is usable. If yours did not come with one, look into get getting one. A common reason some RVs don't have spare tires is a lack of anyplace to carry them.  You may have to get creative to find a place in yours.  I've heard of guys putting them on the luggage rack on the roof, but that is NOT a good idea.  Getting a heavy spare and and down from the rack will be difficult and you'll risk injury to yourself trying to manhandle it it up and down or damaging the tire if you drop it off the roof.  The added weight (usually around 100 lbs or so) at that height can affect handling.  Furthermore, leaving a tire exposed to sunlight on the roof will greatly shorten its useful life.  One of the major tire companies uses the the roof of their warehouse in southern California as an extreme UV testing facility.  Having a spare is just the beginning. Unless you are along a highway where auto club type tire service is readily available, you may have to change the tire yourself. For that you will need a jack that will fit under the frame and is large enough to lift the unit and lug wrenches that both fit the lug nuts and provide sufficient torque to remove them. Keep in mind, on large RVs, the lug nuts were likely tightened by very high-torque air impact wrenches and may be VERY difficult to break loose. I had a flat on the freeway and the auto club driver had to tow my RV back to his shop where he had a 3/4" air impact wrench to get the lugs loose. Always make sure you have adequately blocked the vehicle before attempting to jack up the corner with the damaged tire. And NEVER crawl under a vehicle that is supported on a jack alone! Keep people out of the vehicle while it is up in the air. Movement inside can cause it to fall off the jack, with potentially dire consequences to the vehicle and to anyone nearby! Hydraulic leveling jacks, if you are lucky enough to have them, can sometimes be used to safely lift the damaged tire off the ground for changing, saving a lot of effort.

If you do a lot of boondocking it is a good idea to carry spare fan belts and heater and radiator hoses. These are usually fairly easy to replace by the DIY mechanic and will quickly get you back on the road, but you will need some basic tools and at last some mechanic skill.  Sometimes you can affect temporary radiator hose or heater hose repairs using duct tape or electrical tape. There are special tapes made for radiator hose repairs that will stick even when wet, which is even better. Having a roll of this type of tape in your tool box may save you a lot of frustration and wasted time. If you are already a fair DIY mechanic, you can probably diagnose and repair many of the problems you may encounter – if you have brought along some basic tools and supplies. If you aren’t mechanically inclined, it may be worth your time to take a basic mechanics course at your local adult education school or community college. The modest fee and time spent will be a good investment that you may find helpful beyond your camping needs. You may be able to make very temporary emergency repairs to radiator hoses and heater hoses using duct tape. A special radiator hose tape that sticks when wet is even better. Heater hose damage often occurs near the ends where it has been stressed over the connections or is bent sharply. Quite often there is enough slack in the hose to simply cut off the damaged section and stretch the hose to reconnect it to temporarily get you back on the road.  You will want  to replace the hose as soon as it is practical to ensure reliability and avoid more problems in the near future.  Be sure to include some slack when you buy a new  hose so you'll have room for emergency repairs if needed later.

Battery problems: in many cases, battery problems can be traced to poor connections at the battery or at the other end of the cables where they connect to the vehicle components. Typically, RVs use a negative ground configuration, with the negative battery terminal connected to the vehicle chassis. The positive battery terminal is typically connected to the starter. Negative cables are usually, but not always, black; positive cables are usually, but not always, red. One of the first things to check if you are having battery problems are the connections at the battery. If they are corroded, you need to remove them, clean the battery terminals and the cable ends, then reconnect the cables. There are special battery cleaner sprays that help remove the corrosion but ordinary baking soda can also be used to nullify the acid causing the corrosion. Sprinkle a little baking soda on the corroded parts, then dribble a little water onto the soda. Wait a few minutes, then brush and rinse the corrosion away. Be sure to check the connection of the ground to the frame and engine too.  Corroded connections will prevent your vehicle charging system from doing its job to maintain the batteries so you may still have to jump start the vehicle from another battery in order to get it going. Some RVs have emergency starting switches that connect the coach batteries to the vehicle starting batteries temporarily to assist in starting the vehicle or the generator. In an emergency, you could remove the coach batteries and move them to where you could attach jumper cables in order to get your vehicle started. If the vehicle batteries have not been properly maintained, there is a good chance that the coach batteries are also in trouble and you may have to clean the terminals there as well. Once the vehicle is started it should charge both the starting batteries and the coach batteries using the engine alternator. Some late model motorhomes will only charge the coach batteries after the starting battery has been fully charged, so you'll need to carefully monitor the charge status. The engine alternator will provide a higher charging rate and faster charging than attempting to recharge low batteries running the generator and using the charger in the 12 volt converter. The charger circuits in most converters are only designed to maintain the charge while the unit is in storage. They are not intended to recharge discharged batteries. Some inverter/charger systems are designed to charge batteries. A fairly inexpensive solution is to purchase an automatic automotive battery charger you can run off the generator or shore power.  Automatic chargers sense the state of charge and adjust the voltage to prevent overcharging, which can damage the battery.  The better quality chargers will also have a “START” mode that can sometimes be used to assist in jump starting the vehicle. If all of your batteries are low, you may want to try connecting the starting battery to the coach batteries, then start the generator. It may take less power than trying to start the vehicle engine. Then hook your automotive battery charger to the starting batteries and run the generator for at least an hour or two with charger set on HIGH.  A friend of mine once ran down the starting battery in the truck hauling his camper.  It was a simple process to swap the coach and starting batteries, which were both under the hood so he could get it started to drive home.  He was somewhat mechanically challenged and had no idea the batteries could be swapped.  While it is NOT a good idea to permanently use a deep cycle battery as a starting battery or a starting battery as a deep cycle battery, there is nothing wrong with switching them to get home!

Out of fuel: it is all too easy to run out of fuel, especially if you are running your generator for extended periods of time during remote camping. Most RVs have the generator fuel pickup designed so the generator will run out of gas before completely emptying the vehicle gas tank, leaving you fuel to get to a service station -- hopefully. If you are in a remote location, monitor your fuel usage. The amount left in the tank when the generator runs out may not be enough to get you back to civilization! The generator fuel pickup will usually leave you about a quarter of a tank for the engine.  If you are doing a lot of remote camping, you should consider carrying extra fuel. If you have a gasoline powered vehicle and gasoline powered “toys”, you may be able to borrow fuel from your “toys” to get you to the nearest gas station. Even if your “toys” have 2-stroke engines and use mixed gasoline, you can use the mixed gasoline in your gasoline powered vehicle in an emergency. It may blow a little smoke and if too much is used for too long a time may foul spark plugs and plug catalytic converters, but it usually works well enough to get you to a gas station to save the day. 2-stroke engines are common on dirt bikes, ATVs, snowmobiles, chain saws, personal watercraft, and outboard motors.

Some diesel powered motor homes have propane powered generators. In this case you won't run the risk of using up all the fuel to run your vehicle, but excessive generator usage may leave you without propane for cooking, heating, and running the refrigerator and water heater. There are external tank kits ("Extend-a-stay") that can augment your on-board tanks for motor homes. For travel trailers, you may want to carry one or more extra propane tanks to make sure you don't run out prematurely. Note: generators tap into the liquid fuel in the propane tank. Extend-a-stay kits don't deliver liquid fuel into the RV system, only vapor. Monitor your propane usage and connect the Extend-a-stay long before you run out of fuel if your generator is propane powered. This will allow other appliances to use the vaporized fuel and conserve liquid fuel for use by the generator.
 
Coach Problems your coach (motor home, camper, or trailer) consists of many systems, any one or more of which have problems from time to time. The coach body itself is a “shelter system”. A common problem is water leakage. Leaks typically occur on the roof, especially around vents, antennas, or other roof-mounted components and around windows and doors. Once again, the best defense against leaks is proper maintenance. Periodically inspect the caulking around the windows and doors and all body seams and around components installed on the roof. If the caulking is missing or severely dried out, it should be completely removed and replaced BEFORE a noticeable leak shows up inside. Check your roof after any storm, especially if you've been parked under trees. Falling debris can puncture the roof with nasty results. By the time you notice a leak inside, there is already a lot of water soaking the ceiling and/or into wall panels and this will eventually lead to serious and expensive dry rot problems and unpleasant odors. If you do encounter a leak while on an outing, try to repair it as quickly as possible. There are a number of commercial products available including special repair tape (Eternabond is one popular brand) that will stick even underwater and sealants that typically come in tubes and can be squeezed out to seal the leak. In choosing a sealant, make sure you get one that is compatible with the roof material on your RV. Many sealants that are used for home applications contain petroleum distillates that can harm the rubber roofs on some RVs. On one of my motor homes I had a commercial roof coating installed to repair existing leaks and prevent new ones. It came with a 10 year guarantee and a real life-expectancy of 20 years. The cost was about the same as about 2 or 3 years worth of having an RV shop re-caulk the roof and I never had to worry about leaks as long as I owned the motorhome. The coating is pure white and both the color and the insulation value of the coating helps keep the RV cooler in hot summer months. The coating also helps avoid heat loss in cooler weather.  It even helped soften the noise of rain or hail or wind on the roof.

External panel separation: sometimes the “skin” of an RV will come loose. In many cases the ends of a panel are held in place where they extend into a shallow channel in the trim. Twisting of the body of the coach sometimes pulls the panels out of their channels, allowing wind and water to get behind the panel and pull it away from the underlying wall. Temporary repairs can often be made using duct tape to secure and seal the damaged seam until permanent repairs can be made. Catching and correction problems of this type early can prevent more extensive damage and expensive repairs. If you see a panel starting to separate, tape up the seam as soon as possible, before moisture or wind can cause further damage. An open seam may catch enough wind on the highway to rip the whole panel off, greatly increasing the damage and the expense of repairing it. I have had major structural problems with two travel trailers that required me to remove inside wall panels and replace broken or damaged structural components. It can be done by a dedicated do-it-yourself-er, but most such repairs are best left to professionals. In my own defense, I did have the advice of a professional motor home engineer to guide my efforts.  These were definitely not emergency repairs that could be done in camp, but I did use duct tape to hold things together until I could get the trailer home.  You may notice places where the skin of  your RV seems to be bubbling.  This is called "delamination" and happens when the glue that holds the skin to the underlying paneling deteriorates, usually due to water intervention.  As long as the skin is still secured adequately around the bubble this doesn't pose an immediate emergency, but it is something you should take care of as soon as possible.  An RV repair shop may be able to fix it for you or, if you want to try it yourself, you may be able to inject glue into the bubble to reattach the skin.  Be sure to seal the hole(s) you make to do the injection using a suitable silicone or RTV sealer.  If you can't find some that matches the color, use a clear sealer.

Some minor damage to exterior panels can be inexpensively disguised by covering them with a false vent. I found it would cost hundreds of dollars to replace a damaged panel on one of my coaches, even though the damage was purely cosmetic. At the suggestion of an "old timer", I sealed the cut in the RV skin with a permanent repair tape, then covered the whole thing with a residential furnace vent grill. You can find quite an assortment of sizes at most home supply stores. Often you can obtain a white or off-white one that can be used as is -- or can easily be painted to match the color scheme of your RV. It may not be the most elegant repair, but it is cost effective and, done right, doesn't look too bad. It prevents further damage and provides a fairly pleasing cosmetic appearance. When I found I could not match the skin on my custom-made enclosed motorcycle trailer, I sealed up the damaged surface with tape and silicone and installed a 2'x2' vent painted to match the trailer siding to disguise and protect the torn surface.

Broken windows can result from wind blown debris, accidents in camp, or even from twisting of the vehicle over uneven terrain. Tape up any cracks as soon as possible to prevent further deterioration and reduce the possibility of injuries from flying glass shards. A clear plastic shipping tape works well and doesn't interfere with the view as much as duct tape will, but duct tape works well in an emergency. You want to prevent dust or moisture from entering you vehicle and keep the broken glass from creating a hazard. Broken glass can damage upholstery and injure occupants.  Unless you carry spare windows (highly unlikely and impractical) any repairs you make will be temporary at best. You will need to get the windows replaced as soon as you can when you return home.  Windshield glass is laminated so it won't shatter.  Tempered glass, like those on automobiles, will shatter and crumble into chunks.  Some untempered RV windows may be more like residential windows and can break into jagged shards when broken, creating possible projectiles like dozens of knives or arrow heads.  RV windows should be tempered, but if you have a used coach you never know if a previous owner, being either ignorant or just cheap, replaced a broken window with ordinary glass.

Water system problems: your RV will typically have 2 or 3 water systems: a city water system, for use when connected to campground water supply, 12-volt water system (fresh water tank and 12 volt pump for dry camping), and a sewer system. Most RVs have two different sewer holding tanks: gray water (sinks and shower) and black water (toilet). A few older, smaller units may have only one.   Like any plumbing system, those on your RV can be subject to leaks. In fact, the vibration and twisting of RV bodies subjects these plumbing systems to greater stresses than your home plumbing would normally encounter unless you live on top of an extremely active earthquake fault. For that reason most of the piping used in RV freshwater systems consists of flexible tubing. Although most of these systems have a very long life, failures can and do occur. One significant source of RV plumbing failures is damage due to freezing in cold climates. If you live in an area where it stays below freezing for more than a few hours at a time, you will need to “winterize” your RV plumbing systems. This consists of removing all the water from your holding tanks and water heater and either blowing all the water out of the lines and fixtures or filling the lines and fixtures with special RV antifreeze. DO NOT use regular automotive antifreeze as these solutions are poisonous! RV antifreeze is pink in color and is non-toxic. Be sure to empty the holding thanks, then add a cup or so of antifreeze through the toilet and into each drain to protect the P-traps in the drains and the dump valves in the holding tanks. Even though RV antifreeze isn't poisonous, it doesn't taste good, so you need to flush and sanitize the fresh water system completely before using it again

If you notice your water pump cycling when no water is being used, you probably have a leak somewhere -- or someone didn't turn a faucet off completely. If all the faucets are shut off you need to trace the water lines from the pump to each fixture (as best you can – a lot of the lines will be out of sight  in walls or floors). Also look for damp spots on the floor or walls or underneath your RV that would indicate the location of the leak. If the only sign you can see is water dripping underneath your RV you may have to open outside cabinets to trace where the water is coming from.  If you can locate the leak, you may be able to repair it if it is a loose connection. Carefully tighten any loose connections until the leak stops. DO NOT over-tighten as this can damage the seals and threads permanently and make the problem worse! If the leak is a damaged line, the only long term solution is to replace the damaged section, which, unless you are proficient in plumbing repairs, is best left to professionals who have the knowledge and the proper tools to do the job. Note: the plastic pipe used in most motorhomes uses crimp fittings that do require special tools. Sometimes you can purchase twist-on fittings to replace broken or damaged connectors or repair damaged pipes. I try to carry an assortment of elbows and in-line  twist-on connectors that fit my RV plumbing if I need to make on site repairs.  You might be able to make emergency repairs to get you through the weekend and back home by tightly wrapping the damaged line with tape. Waterproof repair tape would be best, but you might get lucky by turning off the water pump and drying the damaged section, then wrapping it tightly with plastic tape or electrical tape. If you can’t stop the leak entirely, try to place a container underneath it to capture the escaping water to prevent further damage to cabinets, walls, floors, and contents.  Also turn off your pump or turn off the city water faucet when you aren't actually using water to minimize the damage the leak may cause.

The 12-volt water system and the city water system usually share most of the plumbing in your RV. The only difference, being the source. City water is supplied from a hose fastened to a special connector on the side of your RV.  The source of water for your 12-volt water system is the fresh water tank through the 12-volt water pump. If you are using city water, the only indicators you may have of a leak are a hissing sound or the appearance of moisture on the floor or walls or inside cabinets.  Or you might hear water running at the outside faucet when no water is being used inside the RV.  The city water connector on your RV includes a one-way back flow valve (unless it is broken or someone  has removed it) that lets water in but not out.  There is a similar valve to prevent pressure from city water from entering and possibly damaging the 12-volt water pump.

Water pumps: Another common failure of on-board water systems is the water pump itself. Like any other mechanical device, they are subject to wear and tear (and freezing if not properly winterized). If you get no water to your fixtures, first check to make sure you have not run out of water. Most RVs have electric indicators showing E, ¼, ½, ¾, F. However, the sensors can give false readings if sediment or hard water residue has collected on them so always try to verify the water level visually or by pushing a length of hose or tubing into the gravity feed water fill opening. If you have water in the tank and still get no water at the fixtures, check to make sure the pump is turned on and that the fuse has not blown. Most RV water pumps have their own dedicated fuse on the 12 volt fuse block near the converter or in-line, near the switch or near the pump. Also check the connections, both 12-volt supply and ground. Sometimes there is a shutoff valve in the line between the tank the pump, so make sure that valve is open. That covers the most common causes of most on-board water supply failures. If the pump is found to be defective, the only real solution is to replace it. It is not a particularly difficult task, but is unlikely you’ll have a spare pump on board. Most RV water pumps can also be rebuilt or repaired. It might make sense to carry a repair kit for your particular make and model.

If you have water at some fixtures, but not others, the problem may be as simple as a clogged screen in the faucet at the offending fixtures. Gently unscrew the “difusser” screen from the end of the faucet. Inside you will usually find a screen or a plastic piece with many small holes in it. These holes sometimes get clogged by accumulations of small particles in the water. Remove the debris clogging the holes and re-install the diffuser. You might also want to try the faucet before reinstalling the diffuser to make sure that is the problem. If the faucet does not work at all with the diffuser removed, the problem could be a kinked or crushed line between the water source and the faucet or it could be debris or damaged seals clogging inside of the faucet itself. While you may be able to remove and clear a problem inside the faucet other than a clogged diffuser, there is just as good a chance that once you have taken it apart, the damage cannot be repaired on site. If the problem is a damaged internal seal, when you put the faucet back together you might not be able to turn it off, just making the situation worse. You might carry an assortment of faucet washers, available at any home center or hardware store, but RV faucets are often unique and many ordinary home faucet repair kits may not fit. If you REALLY want to be prepared, check with your local RV supply store to see if you can buy faucet repair kits specific the make and model of the fixtures in your RV.

City water systems are subject to variations in pressure and flow from the campground faucet.   High pressure can damage RV plumbing.  ALWAYS use a pressure regulator between the campground faucet and your potable water hose.  Delivery problems can often be traced to a kinked or flattened hose.  I've seen more than one RVer park his rig on his water hose and then complain he couldn't get any water.  Some remote locations are on private wells that may frequently pump up sediment that can clog screens in faucets, filters, and hoses.  If you aren't getting any water, first check to make sure the faucet is still turned on.  Vandals or pranksters have been known to turn them off just for kicks. Then turn off the faucet and disconnect the hose from the RV.  If water flows through the hose when you turn it back on, the problem is within the RV, perhaps a clogged inlet screen or a filter that needs replacing.  It could also be a clogged screen or aereator on the outlet side at each sink.  A clogged inlet screen can usually be pried out can cleaned.  Clogged screens or aereators on the faucets need to be unscrewed to be cleaned.  If you get no water through the hose, trace the hose and make sure it isn't kinked, flattened, or cut.  Disconnect the hose from the faucet.  If no water comes from the faucet, contact the campground manager.  If you have water at the faucet but not out of the hose and the hose isn't kinked or flattened, something must be lodged inside the hose that is blocking the water flow.  Clearing a blocked hose can be tricky and sometimes the best solution is to simply replace the hose.  If  you're using a pressure regulator (and you always should), make sure you are getting water through the regulator as they can also get clogged.  Sometimes incects build nests inside hoses while they are in storage.  You can usually blow them out just using the pressure from the faucet.  You might have to remove your pressure regulator temporarily to blow out the line.  I always like to run water through my hose for a few seconds after hooking it to the faucet via a pressure regulator but before connecting it to my RV to flush out any debris or stale water before hooking it up.

Sewer problems, thank goodness, are usually limited to odor problems but sometimes there are moer serious issues such as either backup (over-filling holding tanks) or leaking dump valves. Odors are usually due to inadequate or improper use of holding tank chemicals.  If you thoroughly flush your holding tanks each time you dump them and then add the right amount of the right chemicals you shouldn't have problems with excessive odors.  You may need to add extras chemicals during hot weather as the heats the chemicals to break down quicker.  Backups should always be avoided but sometimes occur unexpectedly. We once had a young relative who was unfamiliar with RV fixtures camping with us. He somehow left the toilet jammed partway open. As a result, the pump kept running, steadily converting our fresh water to sewage until the black water tank overflowed through the toilet into the interior of our motor home. Yccch! What a mess! There is little you can do to fix leaking dump valves until the tanks have been dumped. The first thing to check is to make sure the valves are completely closed. DO NOT attempt to pull them out and push them back in. You will get a very unpleasant burst of sewage. Simply push or tap on the handles to try to seat the valves more fully. If that doesn’t solve the problem, putting something under the valves to contain the drip may the best you can do until you can get somewhere to dump the tanks and rebuild or replace the valves. Make sure the cap is tight. Once again, maintenance is your best friend. Make sure the valves are clear before closing them after dumping the holding tanks. It is not uncommon for un-dissolved toilet tissue or other debris to get caught during dumping in the slot where the valve seats, preventing the valve from sealing. Inspect the valves before closing them. Any debris in the groove can be removed with a piece of stiff wire or a pointed instrument, but be gentle so you don't put deep gouges in the plastic or damage the seals which will cause the valves to leak. While we're on the subject of sewer systems, avoid putting things in the system that can't be easily broken down and flushed away. RV toilet tissue is specially designed to break down easily. Normal household tissue, and especially facial tissues, do not break down well and may cause holding tank problems. Do not put trash, paper towels, sanitary napkins, or disposable diapers down an RV toilet. You can limit foul odors from your gray water tank by wiping leftovers from dishes using paper towels instead of rinsing the yucky stuff down the drain -- and you'll save water and reduce filling your holding tank. You may able to reduce odors by adding some holding tank chemicals. Put maybe a half a cup of chemicals down one of the drains. Use the one where the odor is strongest. The odor may be coming from residue in the pipes themselves. If all the drains are uniformly smelly, use the one closest to the holding tanks to get as much of the chemicals as possible into the tanks. Add at least a quart of water to flush the chemicals out of the P-traps and through the pipes. There are gray water chemicals that are designed to freshen the gray water tank. In a pinch you might just add some diluted household bleach or vinegar down each drain. I like to use bleach with a "rain-fresh" scent to avoid the harsh chlorine smell. Do NOT use bleach in the black water tank. In some units the shower drains into the black water tank to distribute the loading and increase liquid in the black water tank to assist breaking down waste and dumping, so be cautious about using bleach in the shower drain. At best, bleach will interfere with the regular holding tank chemicals, at worst it may create a chemical reaction that could produce foul, possibly dangerous, even fatal fumes.

A common black water problem among novices is not using enough water when flushing the toilet.  We all try to conserve water, especially when boondocking, but not using enough water when flushing solids causes them to pile up below the toilet, making it difficult to flush it out and sometimes even piling up high enough to clog the toilet.   A residential toilet typically uses about 3.5 gallons of water for each flush so it carries the solid waste down into the sewer system.  RV toilets use a fraction of that amount.  I suggest that, after flush the solid wastes, let the valve close but keep your foot on the lever enough for the water to continue flowing until it fills the little well in the bottom of the toilet, then depress the foot valve all the way to let the water flush into the holding tank.   It is also recommended that you put about 1" of water in the bottom of the black water holding tank after emptying your holding tanks it to provide a buffer and some liquid so the chemicals can break down the solids to avoid buildup.

Another sewer-related problem is unpleasant odors seeping into the coach. The holding tanks are vented through the roof and normally odors are carried up and away. However, driving on the highway with windows open, can sometimes create low pressure inside the RV which sucks in vapors from the sewer vents or up through drains. Closing the windows may avoid this problem. There are a couple of styles of aftermarket roof vents that provide more positive venting and will often help dispel odors both on the road and in camp. On rare occasions a vent pipe may become dislodged from the top of the holding tank or otherwise damaged, allowing odors into the coach. These kinds of problems will likely require professional repairs and there is little you can do about them away from home. Sometimes installation of accessories will drill into a vent pipe. Take care when installing accessories and avoid areas below the roof plumbing vents if possible and always use the shortest fasteners that will do the job. Should you penetrate a vent pipe, remove the offending fastener and fill the hole with silicone or another sealant that is compatible with the ABS or PVC vent pipe. Sometimes you may get lucky and a broken vent pipe may be accessible through a cabinet. In this case, you may be able to affect temporary emergency repairs by duct-taping the damaged section. This should only be used as a temporary repair to get you through the outing until you can properly replace the broken section. Unfortunately, most vent pipes are routed up through interior walls where they are not accessible. If they become damaged, they may have to be removed through the roof and completely replaced, which may also entail dropping the holding tank to secure the bottom of the vent pipe to the top of the tank.

There is often (usually) a vacuum breaker device on the plumbing for the drains inside one or more cabinets. If the odors seem to be stronger inside a cabinet, this device may be stuck or broken. Its purpose is prevent the water in the P-traps in the drains from being siphoned into the holding tanks by normal drainage. If that that happens, holding tank odors can waft up through the open drains into the interior of the coach. Or, if the device itself is stuck open, it can become the source of odors. Tapping on the device might un-stick it, but take care. It is made of plastic and you DON'T want to crack it. If the device is faulty, it will ultimately have to be replaced. Though unpleasant, a sticking vacuum breaker is not likely to lead to further complications or damage, unless the holding tanks are over-filled enough to allow sewage to leak out into the cabinet. Fortunately, these devices are limited to sink drains and are not normally found on toilets and black water systems. However, if your RV has a single holding tank (very uncommon), the gray water is deposited into the same tank as raw sewage and there is the potential for really foul odors to escape through the vacuum breaker or seep up through the drains if it isn't doing its job.  Dry or empty "P" traps at sinks will allow odors from holding tanks into the living area through drains.  P-traps may dry out while an RV is in storage for an extended period or may have drained out during sharp turns.  To solve this problem simply run a cup or two of water in each offending drain. 

Proper use of holding tank chemicals will also help prevent odors. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations for how much and often to use them. Chemicals are always used in black water tanks but are usually optional in gray water tanks. The waste water from sinks and showers goes into the gray water tank and, usually, only sewage from the toilet goes into the black water tank. Chemicals help both to control odors and to break down and liquify the sewage so it can be flushed when dumping the tank. Inadequate or inappropriate chemicals will result in intensified odors and may cause solid wastes to remain in the holding tank causing further problems. Use the right amount of chemicals. Too little will be ineffective; too much just wastes chemicals (and money) and probably won't help anyway and sometimes creates their own problems with chemical odors. If the holding tank has been given the correct dosage you shouldn't need to add extra chemicals between dumpings. Usually doing so is like pouring perfume on a pig. Sometimes, in hot weather, extra chemicals are needed between dumpings, but premature odor problems are usually a symptom of poor or inadequate holding tank maintenance.

Furnace problems: waking up in the middle of the night in a cold RV is, at the very least, uncomfortable and disappointing and could cause you or your family to become ill. If your furnace was working when you went to bed and in the middle of the night the fan is running and the furnace is blowing cold air, you may have run out of propane or it may be that your batteries are low. This is a fairly common problem. Shut off the furnace immediately so it doesn't continue to blow cold air and further drain the batteries.  If you are out of propane you'll need to refill your propane tank or connect an external tank using an "Extend-a-flow" system.   If the batteries are run down, you will need to recharge the batteries, run your generator, or connect to external power before your furnace will operate properly again. If your furnace cycles on and off without warming the coach, you may have one or more vents blocked. Check to make sure blankets or clothing or bags or boxes are not inadvertently blocking the furnace vents and make sure furnace ducts inside cabinets or under furniture have not been crushed or kinked. Blocked vents can cause air-flow problems that let hot air back up and shut down the furnace to avoid potential problems with fire. If the furnace has difficulty lighting or staying lit, check the outside vents to make sure the fresh air intake for the furnace and its exhaust ports are clear and protected from direct wind. These openings often attract insects or rodents during vehicle storage. If the fan doesn’t turn on, check the thermostat and any fuses for the furnace. Once again, the fuse may be on the fuse block or in-line near the furnace. Also check both 12-volt power and ground connections at the furnace. If the fan turns on but the furnace never ignites, the problem could be lack of fuel (check your propane level and make sure the propane supply valve is turned on), a damaged propane regulator, or a defective computer board. There is really nothing you can do about these kinds of problems while remote camping unless you have spare parts on board and the expertise and necessary tools to complete a correct diagnoses and make repairs. That is, of course, unless the problem is that your propane is turned off. To avoid embarrassment, ALWAYS check this before calling a technician or asking your fellow campers for help! Some older units may have convection furnaces that don't have fans. These usually have a pilot light that must be lit manually. Check inside the furnace compartment for a label with lighting instructions. Read and follow the instructions carefully to ensure success and avoid a fire or explosion! Convection furnaces won't run the battery down. The most common problems are loss of the pilot light, usually due to wind blowing in from outside. Try to block the wind but do not close up the vent. Low propane or a faulty regulator or a failed thermocouple can also cause the pilot light to go out. Thermocouples are inexpensive and easy to replace. I've saved more than one outing by having a spare thermocouple on board and replacing the faulty one. You can usually buy a universal thermocouple at your RV store and even a hardware store. The same thermocouple will often fit the furnace, hot water heater, and even the refrigerator, so having at least one spare on hand is a good idea.  More modern, computer controlled appliances use a sensor in conjunction with a computerized control board instead of a thermocouple.

Sometimes, if you are camping in unusually cold weather, your furnace may simply not be enough to keep your unit warm even if it is working properly. First, make sure you have eliminated any drafts around windows, doors, plumbing, etc. Spray foam insulation is a convenient way to seal many cracks and small openings around pipes or wires. If your unit does not have double-paned windows, storm window kits may help. These are plastic sheets than can be stretched over the windows and tightened using a hair dryer. The air gap between the plastic and the glass enhances the "R-value" to prevent heat loss. Another easy and effective alternative is to put foam window covers on the inside. Similar to the reflective windshield covers used in automobiles (and often adapted from them), these panels are light weight, easy to install and remove, and help keep the coach cooler in summer as well as warmer in winter. Ultimately. if all else fails, you may need auxiliary heat. There are a number of portable, catalytic heaters that can be used for this purpose. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturers instructions. Although catalytic heaters don't usually give off toxic fumes, they do consume oxygen, so proper ventilation is an absolute necessity. With proper furnace maintenance, adequate batteries, and careful protection against heat loss, you should be able to keep your RV warm and comfortable in the coldest weather. Electric heaters may be an option if you are camping with hook-ups or can run your generator, but remember, you shouldn't run the generator while you're sleeping because of the danger of carbon monoxide poisoning from the exhaust. The danger might be reduced by using an generator exhaust extension kit such as Genturi, that carries the exhaust above the roof of the RV. However, breezes could still blow dangerous levels of CO into your coach, so be very cautious. These systems, in order to be portable, often have slip joints that can leak, allowing CO to escape where it could enter the coach before it can exit above the roof as intended.

120 Volt generator: your on-board 120-volt generator consists of two major components: an engine and the electrical generator. Problems with either one can seriously affect performance. If the generator has been running for some time and shuts down by itself, it may have simply run out of fuel. Motorhome generators are usually tapped high into the fuel tank so you won’t use up all your vehicle fuel running the generator. Another common problem is low oil. Like any internal combustion engine, the motor that runs your generator requires lubrication. Most are equipped with a low oil pressure shut off. If your generator shuts off, check the oil and add oil if necessary. A less common, but possible problem, is shutdown due to over-heating. This might occur you have been running multiple air conditioners on a hot day. It can also occur to due to excessive wear on the engine or the generator itself or a short in the 120 volt wiring. As always, proper maintenance is the most important factor in getting long and reliable service from your gen-set. Change the oil at the manufacturer-recommend intervals. Perform regular tune-ups. Frequently check the air filter and replace it as needed. Check and replace fuel filters. The generator is subject to almost constant vibration, either from movement of the coach or from its own operation, so connections are prone to work loose over time. Check all 12-volt and 120-volt electrical connections and tighten them as necessary. The 12 volt connections are required to start and stop your gen-set, the 120 volt connects are required to deliver power to your coach. Most gasoline or diesel powered generators use an electric fuel pump to deliver fuel to the engine. The fuel for propane powered units is delivered by pressure from the propane tank. OEM fuel pumps can be expensive and difficult to come by, especially for older units. In a pinch you can use a universal auto electric fuel pump until you can get an OEM replacement. Be sure to check the specs to make sure the pressure and delivery is within the range required by your generator. Too little and it won't work, too much and it may damage the fuel system or flood the engine.

An all too common problem occurs on units not equipped with automatic transfer switches. Automatic transfer switches control whether AC power is taken from the shore power line or from the generator. The normal default is for power to come from the shore power line. Then, when the generator is activated, the transfer switch switches to route power from the generator. Note that most transfer switches include a time-delay to allow the generator engine to warm up and stabilize for about a half a minute before activating the transfer. On units not equipped with automatic transfer switches, the user must plug the shore power cord into a receptacle powered by the generator. This is often over looked, especially by new users, leaving them vulnerable to amuse their fellow campers when seeking assistance. So, always make sure your power cord is properly connected to the receptacle if you don't have an automatic transfer switch. Before I had an automatic transfer switch I made it a habit to immediately plug the power cord into the generator receptacle when storing the power cord after disconnecting it from shore power. The generator receptacle is usually located in the storage compartment for the shore power cord.  Checking to make sure you are properly connected before calling for help will save you time, money, and embarrassment.

Most generators have built-in circuit breakers. If you lose 120-volt power but the motor continues to run, check the circuit breakers, both on the unit and at the circuit breaker panel inside the coach. This panel is usually, but not always, located near the 12-volt converter and coach fuse panel. A tripped circuit breaker may indicate an overload or a short somewhere. Shut down all 120 volt appliances, including roof air conditioners, microwave overs, and, if so equipped, electric water heaters before resetting the circuit breakers. Then turn appliances back on one at a time. This should help you discover what appliance or combination of appliances is overloading the circuit. You may find that you have to shut down one of the air conditioners or disable the ice maker while using the microwave. Keep in mind that many RV refrigerators have an automatic mode that switches them to electric whenever there is 120-volt power available. If the fridge is involved in the overload, you might solve the problem temporarily by manually switching the refrigerator controls to “gas”. If you don't find an overload problem, be extra alert for any clues of an impending electrical fire -- smoldering insulation gives off pungent fumes that may alert you to developing problems before they become more serious.  When shutting down 120-volt systems, shut down the individual appliances and breakers first, then shut down the main breaker.  When restoring power, use the reverse procedure:  turn on the main breaker first, then turn on each individual breaker and appliance.  If you blow circuit breaker when you turn on a specific breaker or appliance you have most likely identified, at least somewhat, where the problem is and can then trouble shoot that circuit for loose connections, damaged wiring, a faulty appliance or an excessive load caused by too many devices plugged in to the same circuit.

12-volt electrical system: your 12 volt electrical system powers your lights, fans, and, sometimes, entertainment systems. 12-volt power comes from your converter when hooked to outside power or when running the generator, from the vehicle alternator when the motor is running, and from your coach batteries at other times. The most common problems in 12-volt systems are very simple and easy to fix. Most problems are burned out bulbs or blown fuses. If a light doesn’t work, first check the bulb. If it is blackened or excessively cloudy inside, it is probably burned out. Try replacing the bulb with one known to be good. You can check the continuity of the bulb with a multimeter and you can confirm power to the fixture using a voltmeter or a simple test light. Connect the ground clamp of the test light to a good ground and touch the positive terminals or the contact in the center of the socket with the point of the test light. If you don’t have any power at the fixture, it is likely there is a blown fuse or a loose connection. Check all the fuses in the 12 volt fuse block, usually located on or near the 12-volt converter. If you find yourself frequently running out of battery power while boondocking, you may want to upgrade your batteries. Some motor homes and trailers have only a single 12-volt deep cycle battery to supply power to the coach. Note that these deep cycle batteries are different than the normal staring batteries used in cars and trucks. A deep cycle battery is designed to withstand frequent discharges and recharging. An automotive type battery can be used in pinch, but such batteries will not last as long nor deliver as good as performance. Adding more coach batteries is one way to increase battery capacity – and keep the darn furnace running all night long on cold nights! If there is room for extra coach batteries, an alternate and often preferred solution is to use two 6-volt golf cart batteries wired in series instead of one or even two 12-volt deep cycle batteries. Two 6-volt golf cart batteries wired in series will provide more reserve power and longer life than two 12-volt deep cycle batteries. If you elect to use 2 12-volt deep cycle batteries, they must be wired in parallel. What is the difference? In wiring batteries in series, you hook the positive terminal of one to the negative terminal of the other, then connect the remaining negative terminal to the vehicle ground and the remaining positive terminal to the vehicle 12-volt power feed. When wiring batteries in parallel, connect the two batteries together, positive to positive and negative to negative, then connect the vehicle 12-volt power feed to either positive terminal and the ground to either negative terminal. Connecting batteries in series doubles the voltage. Hence, two 6-volt batteries connected in series deliver 12 volts. NEVER connect two 12-volt deep cycle batteries in series as this will generate 24 volts and fry your 12-volt system!

Most propane appliances utilize a thermocouple. This tube-like structure extends into the pilot light flame. As long as the flame is working, the thermocouple generates a small amount of electricity, which provides a signal that keeps the main gas valve open. If the pilot light goes out or the thermocouple fails, the main gas valve will shut off. Fortunately, thermocouples are pretty universal and easy to change. Purchase one or two and keep them in your tool box. They should fit older furnaces, hot water heaters, and refrigerators. Whenever working on propane appliances, close the main propane shutoff on the tank until you have everything safely reconnected. Leaking propane can create a serious explosion hazard. Test any new connections with soapy water before attempting to light the pilot. Many newer appliances with electronic ignition use a circuit board. If it fails, about the only way to fix it is to replace the board. A universal replacement, called a Dinosaur Board, can usually be used in furnaces, hot water heaters, and refrigerators. Because they cost upwards of $100 and are sometimes tricky to diagnose and install, I leave those repairs to the professionals. You sure don't want to hook up the new board wrong and fry $100 worth of new parts -- or waste a $100 board when it isn't even the source of the problem.

Fellow RVers are a valuable resource. It is very likely someone else in the camp ground has experienced the same problem you are having at some time in their RV careers or knows someone who has. They may provide invaluable insight into identifying the problem and devising a solution. Sometimes they may even have spare parts they are willing to share with you. Although you may be embarrassed by your apparent lack of expertise, you will find most RVers are non-judgmental and are happy and even anxious to share their own experience and expertise. One day you will be among the “sages” who help others. Even if no one has a solution, just knowing a problem will require a qualified RV technician can at least keep you from fretting over what you might be able to do.

Broken windows can allow weather inside your RV, which can create an uncomfortable climate and promote damage. Temporary repairs may be made using tape -- clear packing tape would be best since it would have minimal impact on being able to see out the window, but ordinary duct tape can also be used. Sealing up broken windows is especially important in bad weather -- rain or snow -- to prevent damage to interior components. In hot weather, a broken window allows cool air to escape, putting a greater load on the A/C unit.  If a window cannot be taped up, try cutting a piece of cardboard to fit the opening or tape plastic over the window until permanent repairs can be made.  Even an empty grocery bag or trash bag will do.

Awnings and tents can be easily damaged by winds, blowing embers, vermin, vandals, or falling debris. It is important to effect immediate temporary repairs to prevent further damage. Use duct tape to repair holes or tears in your awning or tent before wind can cause more damage. Apply long pieces of duct tape perpendicular to the tear to pull the edges together for extra strength before sealing the length of the tear with parallel strips. A severely damaged awning should be rolled up in travel mode until it can be permanently repaired. If your tent is your only shelter, you may have to find a way to "make do" until you can repair or replace the tent, but if you have an alternate shelter available, consider putting a damaged tent away until it can be properly repaired. If you find yourself in a situation with no tape for making repairs, you might be able to make small repairs using tree sap to secure a piece of material over the tear or puncture.

Gasoline stoves and lanterns depend on pressure for their fuel delivery. They usually have thumb-operated pumps to pressurize the fuel tanks. These usually use a leather "gasket" inside the pump to create an air-tight seal. When the gaskets get worn or dried out, they won't work right. If the pump doesn't work, try putting a few drop of oil down the pump shaft. There is usually a small hole in the cap around the shaft for this purpose. Any kind of oil can be used: motor oil, WD-40, even cooking oil. In a pinch, pull the dipstick from your generator or vehicle engine and drip a little oil into the pump opening. The goal is to soak the leather to make it soft and cause it to swell so it provides a better seal. Gasoline stoves and lanterns also rely on something called a "generator" to convert liquid fuel to vapor. There is really nothing you can do to repair these when they fail, but having a spare on board you can swap out, could save your outing.

You are going to need a pretty good tool kit if you're going to be able to handle your own repairs. You are also going to need some mechanic knowledge and skills. If you aren't comfortable diagnosing and repairing your own auto or home problems, you might want to seek some training at adult ed. It just might save your trip!

Keep it going!