Camping Tools and Tricks

Having a few basic tools on board your RV or tow vehicle or in your camp kit-- and some basic mechanical skills -- can mean the difference between a minor inconvenience and an extremely uncomfortable situation or even disaster. Whether your RV is motorized, you're towing a trailer with another vehicle, or you're car camping, you have a motor vehicle of some kind that will require regular maintenance and sometimes may need emergency repairs. If you don't already know now, learn how to diagnose and repair simple problems, such as a leaky radiator or heater hose or a slipping or damaged fan belt. If you are camping in a remote area, it is often a good idea to carry spare radiator and heater hoses and fan belts, since these rubber items can sometimes fail without warning. And, of course, check your belts and hoses before you leave home. If your outings include any motorized toys, make sure you gain some understanding of their mechanical components. Things that go wrong with Jet Skis and how to fix them can be quite different than the problems you might encounter with dirt bikes or ATVs.  Having done some work on your lawnmower at home might be better than nothing, but actually knowing specifics about your machines will be of most benefit.

Make sure the tools you have are appropriate to your vehicle or vehicles. If you bring motorized toys with you (dirt bikes, ATVs, Jetkis, snowmobiles, etc) they may require different tools than your main transportation. For example, I thought I was well prepared for my first dirt bike outing. For years I had carried a rather complete tool set in my RV. To my great disappointment and embarrassment, I quickly discovered that the SAE tools that were adequate for my American made motor home were totally useless on the metric fasteners on my Japanese dirt bikes. My motorcycle trailer is now equipped with a pretty complete set of both SAE and metric tools, along with specialty tools for the dirt bikes. Most tasks can be almost fun when you have the right tools and skills. Conversely, even the simplest task can be a pain the neck (or about 2' lower!) when you don't.

Relevant owners manuals are essential and shop manuals will be even more helpful if you want to do any of your own mechanical work.

Basic hand tools. If you're already a pretty good do-it-yourselfer, you probably have a good idea what tools you use most. For the newcomers, here are some suggestions:

     * Pliers
     * Screwdrivers (a variety of sizes of flat and Phillips)
     * Hammer
     * Socket set
     * Combination wrench set
     * Adjustable ("Cresent") wrenches
     * 12-volt test light
     * electrical tape

Some optional items I've found really helpful include: 

     * Diagonals (special cutting pliers)
     * Wire crimpers
     * T-handle sockets
     * T-handle allen wrenches
     * Wire tie pliers (for securing OHV hand grips)
     * Hot vulcanizing tire patch kit
     * File
     * Hair spray (to treat slipping fan belts and for installing OHV hand grips)
     * Cable ties 

Basic outdoor tools.  Some basic outdoor tools will make life around camp easier.  They would include:

     * Axe
     * Shovel
     * Rake
     * Wood splitting wedge

If you cut a lot of firewood a chain saw may also be helpful.

Many stores offer "automotive" tool kits designed to carry in the trunk of your car. I've seen them for around $30-$50 and many have most of the basic tools mentioned above. They usually come in a blow-molded plastic case that keeps them clean and organized and is easy to transport and store. If you don't have any tools, picking up one of these would be a good investment. You will likely pay more for brand names like Craftsman, Crescent, and Husky, but in my experience, it pays off. Cheap tools too frequently are of poor quality and lack precision.   That makes them hard to work with and they may slip and damage your equipment.  They often break just when you need them most. When that happens at home it is irritating and inconvenient. When it happens in a remote camp site, it can waste a lot of time and getting things repaired can be expensive. I like tools with a "lifetime guarantee". While it is nice to be able to get a free replacement when something breaks, it is even nicer to have things that don't break -- an no manufacturer wants to give away a lot of free tools so those with lifetime guarantees are usually more durable.  And not all tools with a lifetime guaranty are high priced.  Harbor Freight offers a lifetime guaranty on all their Pittsburg (house brand) hand tools.  I have had a few opportunities to exercise their lifetime guaranty and they have always honored it pleasantly with no hassle but for the most part their tools have served me well.

Socket sets come in a wide variety of prices and quality.   They also come in different sizes ranging from little 1/4" drive sets that handle small fasteners to 3/4" drive sets mostly used on heavy equipment.  While you can often find inexpensive combination sets that include 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" drive sets, my personal experience with them has not been good.  I've found it to be a much better investment to buy better quality individual sets in each size.  You'll pay about as much for each better set as you would for one cheap combination set, but it will pay off.  Better quality sockets an ratchets will work much better and last much longer -- and avoid a lot of stripped fasteners and skinned knuckles!

Combination wrench sets also come in a lot of configurations.   Small sets may only have 5 or 6 wrenches, with the largest usually 9/16" or 5/8".  Larger sets will be more complete, usually going from 1/4" to 1" by eighths of an inch.  Better quality sets will be more precise and will fit the nuts and bolts better.  I like ones with nice sharp edges where they grip the fasteners.  I also prefer polished tools rather than textured ones.  I find they're easier to keep clean and they look nice.

RV specialty tools. RVs often have fasteners with special heads. Square drive and torx (star) drive screws are often used on paneling and to secure windows and roof vents. It is a good idea to check to see what your RV has and pick up a matching driver. Keeping these fasteners snug can prevent extended damage that would far exceed the nominal cost of the tool.

OHV specialty tools. Some OHVs required special tools for even routine tasks. I've had dirt bikes that required custom spark plug wrenches. It is literally impossible to change the spark plugs without them.  No standard spark plug wrench or even deep well socket will work.  Some other handy items are spanners for adjusting shocks and tightening steering heads. A spring puller for exhaust springs will save injuries (and loss of blood!) and lots of time, frustration and cursing. You might get by using a screwdriver to remove the springs and some pliers to put them back on, but once you've used a spring puller, you won't want to waste time -- and skin off your knuckles -- doing it any other way.  Because of how we tend to line up our eyesight to get the best view of pulling a spring into place, eyes are often the first and worst casualties when a spring slips.  Usually it only throws dirt and grease but a flying spring can do serious and permanent damage to delicate eye tissue.  A proper spring puller minimizes the risk.  Another handy tool for OHVs with handlebars is a pair of safety wire pliers.  These are used to tighten and secure safety wire on hand grips.

Duct tape is always a good thing to have around. You may be able to use it to effect a good enough repair on a damaged radiator hose to limp back to civilization -- or to temporarily repair a damaged hinge on a cooler. It is good for temporary repairs on tears in awnings and tents and I've even used it to hold loose siding on a trailer until I could get it home and make permanent repairs. You can use it to secure a cracked or broken window to keep out the weather and prevent further damage and possible injuries. It is also a good way to secure splints when someone is injured.

Hair spray sprayed on a slipping fan belt will often provide enough extra stickiness to get you home or to a repair station.  If the belt is really loose, you'll need to tighten the adjustment.  This usually is done my loosening the bolts attaching the alternator to its bracket and pushing the alternator out until the belt is tight, then re-tightening the bolts.  Don't over tighten a belt.  It will put stress on the pulley and bearings in the alternator and any other belt-driven accessories (like A/C, power steering, and  smog pumps).  Hair spray is also good for installing hand grips on handlebars.  It temporarily lubricates the surface to make installation easier, then dries to hold it in place like glue.  You can buy special grip cement, but I've found hair spray works just about as well and is much cheaper.  You can even buy it at your local dollar store.

I carry a variety of size and colors of plastic cable ties.  They have endless uses, such as repairing cracks in OHV plastic parts, anchoring tarps, securing gas lines, and makeshift boot latch repairs.

Your RV contains many of the same systems as your house: water, power, heating, cooling, sewer and failure of any of these components can put a serious damper on most outings. Most of these systems are engineered for a mobile existence, but the constant vibration and stress of travel, often over rough roads or no roads at all, can eventually take their toll -- as does ordinary wear and tear. Invest a little time reviewing the operator's manuals for each of you RV appliances and comply with required maintenance to avoid unnecessary problems. These manuals may prove to be an invaluable source of information if you experience an unexpected failure, especially if you are in a remote location. Make sure your tool box includes tools for tightening loose water or propane connections and familiarize yourself with where these fittings are. Propane leaks may be initially detected by the nasty odor present in the gas, even if you haven't yet been alerted by the "gas sniffer" alarm that should be present and functional in all RVs. To confirm the specific location of a propane leak, apply a soapy water solution to the suspect fittings or pipes. Any leak will cause the solution to bubble. The rate of bubbling and size of the bubbles will be an indicator of the size of the leak. Leaking water pipes can usually be discerned from wetness in the area, drips from pipes or fittings, or a mist or spray at the site of the leak. Sometimes, fittings can work loose from vibration, twisting of the RV body, or from expansion and contraction from heating and cooling. Simple re-tightening them may seal the leak. But be careful not to over-tighten any connection. You may just make things worse. If you damage the connector or the threads, it may have to be replaced entirely in order to be repaired. If a propane pipe or tube has been damaged and is leaking anywhere but at a fitting, it cannot be repaired in the field and must be replaced as soon as possible. Turn off the propane at the tank and do not turn it back on again until the damaged parts have been repaired or replaced. Leaking propane can accumulate and result in a rather spectacular (and deadly) explosion. Leaking water pipes create less of an immediate hazard, but left alone can soak surrounding parts of the coach and cause bad smells and extended damage that can be time consuming and expensive to repair. If you have a leak, turn off the city water faucet or the RV water pump whenever you aren't actively using water to minimize collateral damage -- and loss of fresh water.

Gadgets. As you experience the RV lifestyle, pay attention to your fellow campers. You will learn lots of tips and tricks from them -- which gadgets are the most useful, how to choose utensils that have multiple uses to minimize how much junk you carry around with you, what things make your camp outs less work and more fun. An uncle of mine introduced me to camp fire pie makers -- little long-handled fold-over cookers into which you place slices of bread, filled between with pie filling. They take up little room and create really tasty treats from simple, easy, inexpensive ingredients. There are special cook sets designed for camping and RVing that store within themselves to take up minimal room while providing a variety of cooking options. A lot of camping "tricks" are just simple common sense. For example, bring along a shampoo/conditioner/body wash combination instead of three separate bottles to save space and weight without sacrificing functionality. Gadgets tend to fall into three categories: RV accessories, tools, and toys. RV accessories will make camping less work and more fun. Tools will minimize repair time and, by selecting multi-purpose tools you may be able to reduce weight and space needed for tools. Good tools are just plain fun to have and use and enhance the overall "get away from it all" experience.

Tools for your OHV. OHVs often require some special tools, sometimes to perform routine functions like changing a spark plug. If a toolkit came with your OHV, make sure you bring it a long. Keep it on the OHV or in your fanny pack if possible for emergency on-the-trail repairs. Some other things I've found handy over the years include a tire patching kit -- I like the hot-vulcanizing patches. They stick better than the common peel-and-stick patches often used on bicycle tires. Another handy specialty tool is a cable-oiler. It clamps around the upper end of a control cable and has a rubber fitting where you can insert the tube from a can of WD-40 or any other appropriate lubricant to force oil all the way through the cable. I have found that T-handle socket wrenches make repairs on my dirt bikes a lot easier and faster than conventional wrenches or socket sets. Same with T-handle allen wrenches. Some sets even include T-handle screwdrivers. If you ever have to deal with the exhaust pipes, a spring puller tool will prevent a lot of cursing, skinned knuckles, chasing errant springs and will speed repairs. I may have gone overboard, but I even carry a bench grinder and a small acetylene welding set. In addition to an electric powered bench grinder I can use when running the RV generator, I managed to find a crank-operated, manual grinder for off-the-grid use. A manual tire pump is a necessity for any wheeled toys and an electric-powered air compressor (12 volt or 120 volt) is a nice upgrade. I keep a small 120-volt "pancake" compressor in my motorcycle trailer. It makes tire repairs a lot faster and easier and supplies air for a variety of tools and cleaning tasks. An inexpensive cordless drill is another convenient addition. You may not have the need or the room for my extra, "luxury" power tools, but I mention them as a potential service and because they have made my off-road life easier -- and assisted a number of my fellow campers on more than one occasion. If you decide to include cordless power tools, be sure to check and recharge the batteries regularly.

Race kit. Ever since I got my first enclosed motorcycle trailer I've maintained a set of tools and spare parts in the trailer so I'm not caught off-guard 150 miles from the nearest bike shop like I was on our first outing. When my daughter started racing -- and often going to races by herself and doing her own wrenching -- I put together a "race kit" -- a single tool box containing essential tools so she'd be prepared. And, yes, my beauty-pageant contestant daughter did her own wrenching on her dirt bikes when she was racing. Even after she stopped racing we've kept the race kit for outings when, for whatever reason, we don't take the big trailer. It takes only a half a minute to grab the kit and it has saved more than one outing. For many people, my race kit would be all the tools they'd ever need and wouldn't have to stock their trailer. I may have gone over-board in the tool department in my trailer, but it is nice to know I have the tools to handle just about any repair that can be done in the field. And I like them to be convenient to find and to use. It is pretty frustrating if you discover a loose bolt just before a ride and spend 20 minutes looking for the tool to tighten it -- and any fellow riders who are waiting for you are going to get ticked off.  If it happens too often you'll start getting left behind.

Tool organization and maintenance. You are going to want to keep your tools clean, in good repair, and well-organized. Dirty tools are cumbersome to use and can damage fasteners and your body when they slip. Check your tools often and discard and replace any that are bent or damaged. Clean your tools after each use. Never put them away wet or greasy. Store them in appropriate tool boxes that allow you to organize them so you can easily find what you need when you need it. If you can't find it when you need it, you might as well not have it. You'd be better off leaving things at home and saving the weight than have things you can't find.

Trail tricks. If you do any amount of trail riding -- or even hiking -- eventually you will have something break when you're far away from your base camp. Fortunately, the tools you need to take care of most hiking repairs are small, lightweight, and fit easily into your pack or on your belt. A good "multi-tool" like Leatherman pliers gives you most of the implements you need to effect emergency tent, pack, clothing, and pack frame repairs. If your sport includes off highway vehicles you'll want to carry a little more. Fortunately, you can usually get the tools you will need most into a fanny pack style tool kit or a fender bag that attaches to your OHV. When selecting tools to bring along look for compact tools that can serve more than one purpose. A small adjustable wrench comes in handy. Unfortunately, I've found that they often contain enough slack to let them slip, especially on smaller nuts and bolts so I try to carry combination wrenches to fit the most common fasteners on my dirt bike. I also picked up a small t-handle socket set with just one handle and interchangeable sockets that make trail repairs quick and easy and don't round off fasteners. I once was heavily teased, even chastised, by another rider, an editor of a major motorcycle publication, about the number of tools in my fender bag. It wasn't 20 minutes later I came across him broken down on the trail and now VERY glad for my "everything but the kitchen sink" tool kit. His face literally lit up when he saw me coming and I never got any more flack from him. A tool roll is a good way to keep tools clean and organized and prevent them from rubbing through the fabric of a tool pack and getting lost.  I once picked up almost a complete trail kit that had fallen out from some unfortunate rider's tool kit along the trail.  Never could identify the owner so they made a nice contribution to my own tools.  Been on the other end of that loosing situation too.  My wife once lost her entire fanny pack with all of its tools and parts.  Even though we retraced our route we never did find it.  Someone must have picked it up before we could get back for it.  I have since installed an extra snap link behind the buckles of all our off road packs to prevent them from falling off if the buckle breaks or comes apart.

Spray the inside of new handle-bar grips with hair spray. It will make it easier to slide them on and when it dries it helps hold them in place.  You can also buy special grip glue at your local motorcycle shop, but I've found hair spray works just about as well.  It can also sometimes be used to temporarily treat slipping fan belt.  And its a lot cheaper than grip glue, especially if you buy it at the dollar store.  And who knows, you might even use it to control "helmet  hair" after a ride so you feel more presentable at the campfire.  Wire tie pliers are really handy for securely fastening grips to handle bars.  You can twist the wires with ordinary pliers, but wire tie pliers make it a lot easier and give much neater results.

If you don't have a chain breaker you can usually grind or file down the end of the pins in chain so you can drive it out to shorten it or make other repairs. I splurged and bought a small electric bench grinder for my motorcycle trailer. I have to run the RV generator to get power to run it. I also have a hand-crank operated grinder I picked up at a garage sale for when I don't have power. I just need to recruit one of my kids or a fellow camper to crank it so I can focus on the grinding. It can be done by one person, but it isn't easy, cranking with one hand and trying to guide the object being ground with the other.  Two hands are much better, which reminds me of the teen age boy who, when stopped by a police officer for driving with only one hand on the wheel ( the other arm was wrapped around his girl friend's shoulder and holding her tight) was, asked "Don't you know you're supposed to use both hands?" to which he replied "Yeah, but I needed one for driving!"

Shiny tools appeal to me. Nice chrome-plated or polished wrenches and socket sets have almost the same attraction to me that jewelry does for most women. (But I believe my tools are far more practical!) Some people like the textured surfaces for extra grip but smooth surfaces are easier to clean and usually more comfortable to hold. For the most part you don't rely on surface friction to hold onto your tools. Keep your eyes open for bargains whenever you're in your favorite auto parts store or home center. I got sets of both SAE and Metric "Gearwinder" wrench sets for half price at my local Lowes. These are not as essential as regular wrenches can handle most tasks, but I have found them useful -- they save time and they are kind of fun to use. My wife, knowing my passion for tools, bought me a set of Craftsman "cross force" wrenches for Christmas a year or so ago. These come in solid, combination wrenches, as well as fancy racheting tools like "Gearwinders". What makes them unique is the handles are twisted so the flat side rather than the edge is against your palm when exerting force to loosen or tighten fasteners. Given how much more comfortable they are it is amazing that someone didn't think of this a long time ago! Another useful option are "Metrinch" tools that combine metric and SAE tools in a single set, reducing the weight and space you need to transport and store them.  Note some metric sizes have interchangable SAE sizes -- 14 mm and 9/16" wrenches and sockets are essentially the same size,  But others aren't.  A 1/2' SAE is smack in between 12 mm and 13 mm metric sizes.  A 12 mm won't fit on a 1/2" fastener and a 13 mm will be in danger of slipping and rounding off the head.

There are a few power tools you might find useful to bring along.  The first that comes to mind is a cordless drill/driver.  I also like to have a cordless impact wrench for use on my dirt bikes (especially when working on the clutch!).  My favorite tool is a 4 volt Worx screwdriver with an extendable shaft.  It is small and light weight but remarkably powerful.  Power tools can save a lot of time keeping fasteners tight on RVs.

OHV riders will want to carry tools with them on the trail. There are many fine bags designed for this purpose. I have used fanny packs, tank bags, and fender bags. I once got a deal on several denim shaving kits at a liquidation store that I adapted as fender bags and they actually outlasted some of the expensive tool bags I bought from a motorcycle shop. Some riders prefer using a back pack. My daughter had a teddy-bear back pack she wore while racing. It was more attractive and feminine than an ordinary back pack and helped us identify her on the trail. Everyone at the races knew the "girl with the teddy bear pack". There are specially designed off-road fanny packs with pockets for tools and compartments for other necessities. If your fanny pack doesn't have tool pockets, you can buy a tool roll or make one from the leg of an old pair of jeans.  In addition to basic tools, I carry a flashlight, a chemical light stick, a pocket first aid kit, a water-proof container for matches, and a flint and steel fire starter. I try to keep a poncho and/or emergency blanket in my tool kit too, in case I get caught out in the rain or have to spend the night along the trail.  "Space blankets" are aluminized mylar and take up about as much room as a folded handkerchief but are said to retain about 70% or so of your body heat, which could be life-saving if you're caught out in cold weather over night.  In hot weather they make a pretty darn good sun shade.  Since they shine like a mirror they can also be used for signalling.

Spare parts and supplies are essential to keeping up with what happens during an outing.   Brake and clutch levers are frequently damaged on dirt bikes and ATVs.  Shift levers run a close second.  Having spares on hand can save your weekend.  Engine oil and other necessary lubricants are necessary to keep things working smoothly.  Some extra coolant and brake fluid may be needed to top things off between rides.  A variety of fasteners (nuts, bolts, washers, screws, cable ties) gives you an alternative to sidelining a vehicle or making a trip to town for parts in many cases.  When I first started riding I got the mechanic at my local motorcycle shop to cough up a can full of spare nuts and bolts from his stash.  These days you can buy kits containing the most commonly used fasteners for almost any brand of off road vehicle -- or a "universal" kit.  Nice thing about these are they're all brand new and shiny.  They fit right and look good.  They can run as much as about $50, but are well worth it.  I like to watch for them on sale and stock up then, often getting them for under $20!  You won't need or want to carry all this stuff on the trail but having adequate replacement parts back in camp has saved more than one outing for me and my group.

You'll also need camping tools. Basic tools for camping, whether in an RV or car camping in a tent, include an axe or hatchet, a shovel, and a knife. Use your axe or hatchet to prepare firewood and kindling. A shovel is need to build fire pits and put out fires. A knife has dozens of uses around camp, from shaving sticks to create tinder to cutting tangled fishing lines. A Swiss Army style knife or a Leatherman multi-tool is often chosen by campers but survival experts recommend a good, 4-5 " fixed blade knife. Those big macho-looking "survival" knives appeal to the "Rambo" in all of us, but won't be as useful as a smaller hunting knife for most camping and survival tasks.  I have also learned to appreciate the value of a "rigging knife"with a marlin spike.  I carry one one my sailboat and have found the marlin spike indispensable for loosening over tightened knots.  It would be equally useful in camp or on the trail.

One of my favorite campfire safety tricks is one I learned from my little sister.   Use a stick to hold wood when splitting it for kindling instead of holding it with your fingers.  If you should miss, you only shorten the stick and not your fingers, which are difficult to reattach and won't grow back.

Trick or Treat?
Pick the tools and tricks that will be a treat to use.

Boondocking or "Dry Camping"

Several recent reports I've read indicate more than around 3/4 of RV owners prefer camping in full hookup campgrounds,  in spite of the fact that most RVs are self-contained and capable of camping anywhere.  Most RV purchasers are looking for rigs that are fully self contained and capable of going off grid even though the majority of owners never use them that way.

Boondocking, also sometimes called dry camping, refers to camping "off the grid", without hook-ups. Mostly the term implies RV remote camping in primitive camp sites in open BLM or Forest Service camping areas. I've even seen some boondocking overlooking the ocean along the Pacific Coast Highway in California.  These outings can be very delightful and rewarding, but some special preparation is required to get the most out of the experience. Boondocking often gives a more "authentic" outdoor experience than staying in a full hook-up resort. Technically, you are off grid when you stop overnight in a rest area or Walmart parking lot or in front of your in-law's house, but it usually implies camping in a remote or primitive area without any facilities. When boondocking, you will not have direct access to water or electricity or sewer connections. You only have what you brought with you. That's when a fully self-contained RV come in really handy.

One of the primary concerns for boondocking is fresh water. If your RV has a small fresh water tank you will want to bring extra water in portable containers sufficient for your needs and your intended length of stay. Limit your fresh water use. Habits that work well at home such as rinsing dishes individually and letting the water just run while waiting for the shower to get warm wastes precious water. Wipe off dishes with a paper towel or old newspaper before washing and collect water in a plastic dishpan or portable container while the shower is warming up and use it for other tasks -- like rinsing dishes if your aren't happy with just wiping them down. When boondocking in a tent you'll need to bring plenty of water in plastic jugs. It is also a good idea to bring extra water for your RV and dump it into your fresh water holding tank as you use what is there. We haul several 5-6 gallon water jugs for a reserve. You can get them cheaply at Walmart. By the way, my wife came up with slick trick to deal with the loss of the little plastic plugs that are supposed to close the vent holes. She screwed in a plastic drywall anchor, the kind that look like large, white plastic screws. They are cheap and easy to install and remove.  They are self drilling so it is pretty easy to install them in the vent holes, which are usually smaller than the hole made by the anchor.  The easiest way to install them the first time is using a cordless drill-driver.  You may need a #2 phillips screwdriver to remove and reinstall them the first couple of times you use them.  Sure beats having water spill out of the vent hole or buying new water jugs!  The only way I've found of replacing the original plugs is to buy a kit to replace the spout too, which makes them kind of expensive.

Closely related to fresh water consumption is holding tank capacity. Dumping of sewage onto the ground is illegal as well unsanitary, unpleasant, and inconsiderate. By limiting your fresh water consumption you will also limit how quickly your holding tanks fill up. Gray water from sinks and showers can sometimes be drained into surface sumps.  Black water from the toilet must be drained into an approved sewer system.  Minimize holding tank filling by minimizing water consumption.  You may also avoid filling holding tanks by availing yourself of any available toilet facilities, if you are in a developed campground. The pit toilets in many primitive campgrounds are not be the most pleasant to use, but even worse is having your black-water tank back up into your coach. You can easily escape the foul odors of a pit toilet once you've finished your business, but getting away from fouled carpet in an RV is pretty hard. And it is very difficult to get it really clean and fresh again!

Tent campers will have to deal with managing their own wastes.  Without toilet facilities in remote locations, tent campers will have to dig their own latrines.  Dig them downwind and some distance from camp and at least 200' from any spring, creek, river, lake, or well.  If you don't know how to do this properly, seek instruction.  Improper latrines are a health and safety hazard and in many places are illegal and you could face serious fines for violations.

Power is another essential commodity for RV boondocking.   In fact, conserving your batteries may be the most important consideration.  Avoid unnecessary power consumption by retiring and rising with the sun if you can. If you choose to stay up after dark, use battery powered lights or gas lanterns to avoid draining your vehicle batteries. If you find that even with reasonable conservation measures your coach batteries are not adequate for your needs your batteries may be getting old or may simply be inadequate. You can usually upgrade the batteries to increase capacity. See my Battery Maintenance post for additional information. Increased battery capacity may be especially necessary if camping in cold weather since the battery is usually required to operate the furnace in an RV. That brings up another option to consider. If you are doing a lot of cold-weather camping, you may want to invest in one or more portable catalytic heaters. With adequate ventilation, these can be used in a confined space. A properly operating catalytic heater will not give off toxic fumes, but it will consume oxygen, so proper ventilation is absolutely essential to avoid suffocation. Typically leaving a window slightly open on each side of the RV is sufficient, but check the requirements of your unit to be sure. Forced air RV furnaces are more convenient but require outside venting and must be installed by a qualified technician. Of course, one can avoid the need to heat the RV inside by appropriate campfire activities, then retiring to a well insulated sleeping bag when the evening comes to a close. If you've ever done any tent camping, you are probably used to this approach and will find the RV more comfortable even without auxiliary heating, than a tent. Do not -- ever -- use the cooking stove or oven in an RV for heating purposes.   Incidental heating that occurs while cooking is OK, but don't turn on the oven or stove just to warm up the interior.  You will normally only use the stove or over a short time for cooking but may be tempted to run it much longer if you're trying to warm up a cold RV.  Not good!  These units release toxic fumes, especially carbon monoxide, that can be deadly as well as consuming oxygen! Follow the manufacturer's instructions for venting your cook stove or oven when using them for their intended purposes. Of course, excess heat from cooking on your RV stove or using   the RV oven will help warm your RV, but don't rely on it for all your heat. The furnace is designed for -- and safe -- for that purpose. The stove isn't! And don't discount the value of body heat. Just having several people inside your RV can warm it up considerably if it is well insulated. Each person generates about as much heat as a 100 watt light bulb, which is quite a bit.  Minimize opening doors and make sure all windows and roof vents are closed during cold weather. If you think your stove is creating too much pollution, open a window and a roof vent. This will help get rid of toxic fumes and cooking odors, bring in fresh air, and help remove excess heat. Powered roof vents are especially good for this purpose.  Tent campers need only be concerned about their vehicle batteries, which will normally not be drained unless you use vehicle lighting in camp, place the radio or other electronic devices significantly, or run other 12-volt appliances.  If you use the 12-volt power from your vehicle in camp, be sure to monitor battery condition so you don't end up stranded by a dead battery when its time to go home.

You can avoid heat loss in an RV by making sure windows and doors close and seal properly and any cracks are caulked or sealed with foam insulation. We all enjoy the panoramic views offered by large RV windows, but unless they are double-pane, thermal protected windows, they transfer heat rather efficiently. Keeping the blinds or curtains closed will help keep the heat in when you want it in and out when you want it out, keeping you warmer in winter and cooler in summer. There are add-on storm window kits available at hardware stores you can use. These are clear plastic films that are stretched over the windows and shrunk tight using a hair dryer. Another simple solution is to cut foil foam bubble insulation to fit each window. This is available in bulk rolls from hardware and home improvement stores and RV stores or they can be made from automobile windshield shades. The bulk insulation is usually thicker and provides more protection against heat loss than automotive shades. Any of the foam panels work well to keep your RV warmer in winter and cooler in summer but you have to sacrifice the view. Usually the improved comfort level in winter or summer is well worth giving up the view and you can always step outside or remove the panels for a few minutes if you really want to soak up some atmosphere. When you are done, your RV will be waiting for you providing a comfortable refuge from outside weather.

If you boondock a lot and find you are constantly running out of fresh water or filling your holding tanks too soon, you may want to upgrade to a unit with larger tank capacities -- or bring extra water or plan sufficient trips back to civilization to meet your needs. We used to haul a 55 gallon barrel of water with us in the pickup that towed our motorcycle trailer when we were dirt biking in the desert with a family of 8 for days at a time -- on top of the 100 gallons of fresh water in the Class A motorhome's tank. This was possible because we brought a pickup and trailer to haul the dirt bikes. It may be possible to upgrade the tanks on some rigs, but most are so integrated into the structure that installing larger or additional tanks isn't very feasible or cost effective. Sometimes you may be able add supplemental tanks in unused spaces but that requires careful engineering to ensure structural integrity (water is VERY heavy -- 8 lbs per gallon) and functionality (filling and efficient transfer between the main and supplemental tanks). You may need additional suspension modifications to accommodate the extra weight. External portable holding tanks can be used to expand your capacity between visits to the dump station as long as you have a safe way to transport them to the next dump station.

In addition to learning how to make use of your self-contained RV for boondocking, you'll need to figure out how to find some suitable places to go.  There are many places on BLM and US Forest Service lands in the western United States where "dispersed" camping is permitted.  There are no BLM managed lands east of the Mississippi River but there are Forest Service facilities nationwide.  A lot of Forest Service campgrounds have no hook ups, so you could end up boondocking in an actual campground.  Be aware that there are often privately owned lands near or even within Forest Service boundaries and using them without permission would be a definite NO-NO.  You'd be trespassing and could be be fined or even imprisoned.  If you go camping in a primitive Forest Service campground, you'll probably find a fire ring and perhaps a picnic table at each designated site but no hookups. Locations such as this can provide a good introduction to boondocking.  You'll have chance to learn how to use your RV self reliance features and develop your skills without being totally in the wild.  If you should fill your holding tanks, you will probably still have access to toilet facilities in the campground to help get you by.

When you graduate to using dispersed camping sites where there are NO facilities,  you will get to select your own site rather than park in a designated space.  You'll have to choose and prepare a safe place for your campfire (assuming the area isn't under fire restrictions).  Check with the local rangers to find out where dispersed camping is permitted.  They can also give you some idea of which areas are most popular.  If you are seeking solitude, you may want to avoid popular spots, but using popular places will allow you to take advantage of fire pits that have already been prepared by previous campers and you may also be able to find convenient routes in and suitable places to park without a lot of trouble or negotiating terrain that could damage your vehicle.  Previously used camp sites usually make it easier to find the most level place to park.

Wild animals are not usually a problem in established campgrounds, but when you are camping in primitive, remote locations, you may encounter them. Most animals, even predators, are usually cautious or even scared of humans and will keep their distance, especially if you have a good fire going or are making plenty of noise. Snakes, not so much. They'll crawl right into camp. We've killed more than one rattlesnake in the desert when it crept right under someone's rig and into camp. In the interest of not wasting natural resources, many of the snakes found their way into dinner and their skins decorated hats or were made into belts. NOTE: we did NOT go snake hunting. We usually try to scare them off first, but it that doesn't work we protected ourselves against unwanted visitors -- who no doubt considered us the invaders in the first place -- then we made good use of the kill. And yes, snake does taste like chicken. Bears and raccoons are a problem in some forest areas. Keep your food locked up or out of reach. Never feed wild animals or leave food out for them. Coyotes may be a threat to pets but usually stay clear of humans.  We almost always heard coyotes at night when camping in the Mojave Desert but never had any come anywhere near camp.  Mountain lions sometimes make the news by attacking people but are normally pretty shy and mostly leave people alone. If there is any history of aggressive animals in an area you plan to visit, check with the local ranger or land manager to determine if it is safe at this time and learn of any special precautions you should take. The girls in the movie, "The Parent Trap" embarrassed their father's girlfriend by convincing her that banging two sticks together would keep the mountain lions away, an idea that was soundly denounced in the movie. However, noise IS often a deterrent to many wild animals so that loud heavy metal music your teenagers love blaring at the threshold of pain may have some value after all.

Stick it out in the sticks!

Camper Shells

Camper shells started out as rigid roofs to cover a pickup bed for basic camping needs, hence the name, but now are mostly used for utility and storage purposes but it can still be used for camping. A camper shell provides sturdy shelter against winds, rain, snow, and hail and requires no set up. It does not include any kitchen or other facilities. It is usually only about the height of the cab so you can't stand up in it.  They usually aren't insulated.  You can purchase optional "carpet kits" for the pickup bed that enhance the appearance and comfort if you do choose to use it for camping. I have one that, when the cushions are folded up, creates a comfortable sofa against the front of the truck bed (back of the cab) and a cushy, wall to wall mattress when laid out that is very comfortable to sleep on. I've seen some that have bench seats along the side over the wheel wells and the pad between them can be lifted into place to create a comfortable wall-to-wall bed. The seats open on the top and on the ends for storage. The design originated in the 1970s and, surprisingly enough, they're still making them.

                                                         

How is a camper shell different from a truck camper? First of all, a camper shell is usually only has high as the roof of the cab and has no interior improvements, that is why it is just a "shell". Some camper shells have slightly raised roofs that give a little more head room.  A full on camper usually has stand-up head room, beds, eating area, and a galley with a stove, sink, and ice box. High end campers may have sanitation facilities, furnaces, and refrigerators.  Most camper shells are not insulated.  Most campers are.  Still, a camper shell will generally be more weather resistant than a tent and doesn't require any setup.

Unlike truck campers, camper shells are usually designed to fit a specific year, make and model of pickup truck.  Some might be interchangeable or you might be able to adapt one to fit your truck, but often the angle on the front needs to match the angle of the cab and there isn't much you can do if they are different.  Another consideration is the footprint -- length and width at the base where it sets on the rails of the truck bed. A good fit is essential if you want to keep the interior dry in the rain,

If you already have a pickup truck, a camper shell could be a pretty cost effective way of turning the bed into a weather proof cargo area and a basic sleeping space in camp. For the most part, it just replaces your tent and you'll still need sleeping bags, a camp stove, cooler, water, and some kind of dishpans or basins for washing dishes and personal hygiene. The sturdy aluminum or fiberglass construction stays dryer than a tent and is often warmer, especially if it is insulated. Many are not, just aluminum sheeting or structural fiberglass.  Camper shells are securely anchored to the truck bed so you don't have to worry about them blowing down in the wind like you might a tent. Camper shells do not include heaters or furnaces, but you can warm them with a good tent heater. Just be sure to maintain adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation! If you have a sliding window that opens into the truck cab you might get some temporary warming from the truck heater.

Depending on how you configure your carpet kit and stow your gear, you should be able to arrange things so you have little if any setup to do when you reach camp. If you arrive late it is really nice to just roll out the sleeping bags on a nice soft mattress and not have to wrestle with a contrary tent in the dark and the wind and then sleep on twigs and rocks. Sometimes shells have sliding front windows. If they do you may be able to pre-warm your shell as you drive if your truck also has a sliding rear window -- and a really good heater. Given that the heater in your vehicle is usually designed to only keep the cab warm, trying to heat the shell might not be practical or efficient, but it also might be worth a try. I've had trucks with heaters that would drive you out, even with the windows open! My dad had a 1936 Dodge pickup we used on the ranch. All of the windows except the windshield were gone, but we'd have to turn down the heater even on the coldest winter days or it would drive us out.

There are also soft top versions built of materials similar to a convertible top. These are usually referred to as canopies instead of shells, but they serve the same purpose. They aren't as durable and probably don't hold in the heat as well as a solid shell, but they are light weight, probably less expensive, and often easier to put on and take off. So, what's the difference between a canopy and a truck tent? A canopy is more or less permanently attached to the truck bed and stays in place when you're driving. It normally doesn't extend much above the top of the cab. A truck tent essentially just a dome tent that is installed in the bed after you reach camp instead of being setup on the ground. It may or may not have stand-up head room. It cannot be left in the truck when you are driving, except perhaps to maneuver slowly around your camp site. Never try to drive on roads or highways with a truck tent set up in the back of your truck!

Shells aren't just for turtles!

Truck Campers

There is one more RV option to be considered that is neither a trailer nor a motor home. That is the truck camper. This is kind of like a wheel-less camper trailer that slides into the bed of a pickup truck. Like any other type of RV, there are many styles, sizes, features, and prices to choose from. A truck camper may offer the advantage of being able to use the truck for other traditional uses between camping trips by removing the camper. If you plan to do a lot of off-road driving where 4WD may be useful, a truck camper may be a viable solution since the camper can be mounted on a 4WD pickup. There are a few 4WD motor homes, but they are generally difficult to find and significantly more expensive than their 2WD counterparts or than a 4WD pickup and camper. Truck campers are not to be confused with "camper shells", which were originally designed to be a camp shelter but are now mostly used to protect cargo in transit and storage. Truck campers usually have stand-up head room, a galley, a cab-over bed, and a dinette.  The galley typically includes a sink, stove, and ice box.  Fancier campers will have a refrigerator instead of an ice box.  Larger units may even be self contained and include full sanitation facilities. 

                    

Some truck campers have a pop-up feature that allows them to be collapsed lowering profile, wind-resistance, and center of gravity while on the road. When expanded they have full head room and all the conveniences of standard campers although you do sacrifice some overhead cabinet space.

Even the most basic slide-in campers typically provide a comfortable bed, an ice box, a table, and a stove. More upscale units will include a refrigerator instead of an ice box and perhaps a furnace. Some campers are even self-contained, with hot water, shower and toilet but because of the added weight of extra fresh water and the contents and location of holding tanks, they will be heavier and sometimes less stable than smaller units. One of the advantages of a motor home is that heavy elements such as water tanks and holding tanks are mounted deep within or sometimes even below the vehicle frame to keep the center of gravity low for better handling and more stability while the very nature of a slide-in truck camper places the water and holding tanks (if any) inside the bed and fairly high above the vehicle frame making them somewhat top heavy.

Sleeping in a truck camper is probably going to be a little different from sleeping in a camping trailer or motorhome. There are usually two places to sleep: make the dinette into a bed or sleep in the cab-over bed. Most RV dinettes are limited in size and those in most truck campers especially so.  Often, but not always, they are primarily intended for children.  If you plan to sleep adults on the dinette, measure it to be sure they'll fit.  The cabover sleeper is designed to be the primary sleeping area in most truck campers. The cabover sleeper is similar those in Class C motorhomes, but usually has less headroom. These beds present a couple of special considerations you don't usually have to worry about in most other RVs: getting into the bed and low head-room. Since they are up over the cab of the truck you'll need to do some climbing to reach them. Some campers have kind of built-in places to climb up. Some need ladders. Either way, if you have any physical ailments that prevent you from climbing, plan on sleeping on the dinette -- even if you have to pull your knees up to fit. The second consideration, head-room, doesn't affect you very much while you're lying down sleeping. But it will definitely affect you if you are startled awake in the middle of the night and try to sit up suddenly. You just might return unexpectedly to a different kind of slumber if you sit up too fast and bang your head on the ceiling! The configuration of the cab-over sleeper makes the task of making the bed a little difficult, but you'll soon learn to shift your weight from knee to knee to pull the bedding back into place in the far corners. Cab over sleepers usually have windows on each side of the camper, at the head and foot of the bed so you can get some cross ventilation. The front windows are usually fixed, providing light but no ventilation. Most will also have a roof vent to allow hot air to escape.  A powered roof vent will cool even better.   If you find it is still too warm for your comfort you may want to add a 12-volt oscillating fan or two to move the air so you feel cooler. Remember, fans don't actually cool the air, they just move it to aid evaporation of perspiration on your skin to make you feel cooler. Keep a spray bottle filled with fresh water handy in hot weather. An occasional spritz will help keep you feel cooler.

Air conditioning is a luxury usually available only on very large, high-end truck campers. The added weight on the roof plus the need for a generator to power the A/C is usually prohibitive. There are some possible alternatives. One is what is affectionately called a "swamp cooler". This is a 12-volt powered evaporative cooler. They work fairly well in dry climates and in outside temperatures above 85 degrees. They don't work at all in high humidity. The original brand was called Recair and you may still find a few used units available now and then. The brand was taken over by another company who now markets them under the name of "Turbo-Kool". New units are not cheap. They run about $700 plus installation. They work pretty well in camp, but I found using them while on the road less than satisfactory. A turn or lane change can cause the water to spill from the reservoir over into the fan and get sprayed all over the place! If you use a "swamp cooler", remember you are constantly drawing fresh air in from the outside so the old air has to have some place to go. You will need to keep one or more windows partly open. Selective choices of windows can affect the air flow and distribution of the cool air within the vehicle. We have had some success with portable evaporative coolers. There used to be some designed for automotive use that were about the size of a small ice chest and plugged into a cigarette lighter socket. There are some that look like over-grown box fans. They have a reservoir for water in the bottom and one side is fitted with the same kind of "cooling pads" as a residential swamp cooler. Water is pumped up to drizzle down through the pads and the fan draws warm air in through the wet pads to be cooled by evaporation. Ever wonder how well that works? Well, consider this. It takes only 80 calories of heat to turn 1 gram of ice into 1 gram of water. It takes 539 calories to turn 1 gram of water into 1 gram of water vapor! So each gram of water cools more than 6 times as much when it evaporates as one gram of ice as it melts. The rule of thumb is an evaporative cooler can reduce air temperature about 15-20 degrees. So if is 100°F outside, a swamp cooler can only bring it down to about 80°F inside -- and will significantly raise the humidity.  Sometimes just running the fan without the water (if you have that option) will be more comfortable.

Limited space is typically a defining characteristic of truck campers. You will have limited head room in the cab over sleeper, limited floor space, and limited cabinet and closet space. Truck campers are not ideal for large families or large people but can be very effective for a single person, a couple or a small family. You may have to be very selective in what you bring along on each trip, but with some practice, a truck camper can be a very comfortable home-away-from home. Slide-outs are now an option on some high end truck campers, which greatly increases the living space inside when extended. Of course the slide-out also adds weight so there are definitely trade-offs.

The bottom line: anything that gives you a place to get in out of bad weather and make your stay more comfortable is better than having nothing at all and will make your outings more pleasant. The trick is to find what works for you -- and your budget. I got my first truck camper for free through a local classified newspaper! Sure, it needed some work, but the acquisition price was right and after a little basic repair and TLC it was quite comfortable and I even made a modest profit when I eventually sold it. More recently we picked up an older, self contained  11 1/2'  truck camper for $100 to give us access to mountain roads and smaller campgrounds where our big diesel pusher Class A motorhome can't go. It is more than 40 years old but it was a top of the line unit when it was built and is still in remarkably good condition.  The coach body is solid, no broken or missing windows, and all the appliances work.  With some careful shopping and a little patience, you can find some genuine bargains. As with any previously owned unit, check for serious structural damage and signs of water damage that could indicate major problems. A foul, musty odor is usually an indication of severe water damage, even if there no visible signs of leakage. Be skeptical of units with heavy air fresheners as they may be disguising telltale odors. However, the mere presence of an air freshener does not necessarily mean the owner is trying to hide something. Some people just like the smell of "Vanillarama" or gardenias or pine but very heavy fragrances are often an attempt to cover up chronic nasty smells. Another indicator of water damage is soft spots on the floor, ceiling, or walls. Be leery of any RV that has soft spots. I once owned a Class C motorhome on which the manufacturer had failed to complete all the welds on the brackets intended to support the extended frame behind the rear wheels. The whole back 10' or so of the motorhome was sagging and felt bouncy. The average buyer probably isn't equipped to handle the task of re-aligning the bent steel and welding in new brackets to correct problems of this type and this kind of professional repairs doesn't come cheap. More common are squishy spots on the floor due to dry rot caused by water damage. Any outside leak or plumbing problem that isn't taken care of promptly can result it this kind of damage. Even a leaky ice chest or a dripping ice box can eventually ruin floors. If you have some basic carpentry skills you might be able to make satisfactory repairs to damaged floors. Roofs and ceilings are usually more difficult and may require professional services to achieve satisfactory results.

Driving and handling. Since a truck camper sits on your pickup truck, many driving features will already be familiar. However, a camper is going to significantly affect handling, especially accelleration, stopping, turning and and in cross winds. You will notice the camper sway in the wind from passing trucks or even from your own lane changes. Because campers sit in the bed of a pickup truck, they have a relatively high center of gravity compared to motorhomes and even travel trailers. Well-designed motorhomes keep as much weight as they can as low as possible. Holding tanks are often between or even below the frame rails. With a truck camper, almost all of that weight is above the floor of the bed, unless it hangs off the back like many of the larger self-contained units, which creates its own momentum problems. Talk about the tail wagging the dog! As a result, they tend to make the entire unit a little top heavy. You may find simple maneuvers such as lane changes will start the camper rocking. Your best defense is to avoid sudden moves and keep away from uneven pavement lanes. If you find your camper sways excessively you may need to add a sway bar and/or upgrade the shocks or even the springs on your truck to improve handling and safety. Also make sure the camper is securely anchored on all 4 corners so it doesn't rock within the truck bed. Having it securely anchored will dampen oscillations that might grow if it were free to rock back and forth.  If you're considering buying a camper, be sure to find out the weight and confirm your truck can handle it safely.  If you also plan to tow a boat or trailer, be sure the combined vehicle weight rating is sufficient for all your needs.

Wiring. Truck campers usually require some special wiring connections. If your camper covers the taillights of your truck you'll need to connect the taillights on the camper to the truck wiring. The camper will usually have a trailer-style connector that can be hooked to the truck trailer connection with a proper pigtail. Some campers may have a coach battery installed in the camper. Others rely on power from the vehicle. In either case any connection from the vehicle alternator to charge the coach battery should pass through a battery isolator to prevent the camper from drawing down the starting battery and leaving you stranded. Some tow vehicles have an extra battery platform under the hood for a second battery for the camper. If yours does not it would be a good idea to look for a place to put an extra battery in the vehicle or in the camper. You don't want to rely on powering the camper from the starting battery. Most campers have doors that give you access to the unused space in the truck bed in front of the wheel well. You may be able to put a battery in this space. Just be sure to anchor it securely so it doesn't bounce around, tip over, or get broken or damage your camper.

If you already have a truck capable of carrying a camper a truck camper may be an economical solution for you, especially if you shop around for a true bargain. Remember, cheap does not necessarily mean it is a good bargain. From my experience, there are enough inexpensive units in good condition that you should never have to settle for a trashed camper. I recently bought an 11 1/2' older (40+ years!) self contained camper in excellent condition for $100! All the appliances worked and there was no structural damage or dry rot. It had once had walnut colored wood grain stripes on the outside that had faded to a dull, dusty cocoa color. A few cans of metallic blue spray paint quickly refreshed the appearance and made it closely match my pickup truck. The relatively narrow stripes were pretty easy to paint. Be sure to remove any emblems or nameplates and to mask off adjacent areas before you start painting. I wouldn't want to attempt to paint larger areas without a good air powered paint gun and much more practice.  When I replaced my truck I again repainted the stripes on the camper to match the "new" truck.  Took only an afternoon, including cleaning, masking, painting, and cleanup.

Most of the amenities you find for travel trailers and motorhomes can be adapted to truck campers as well. You may have to make some compromises in size or capacity to fit the camper. Awnings are a good addition to any RV. For a truck camper you may want to install it on the curb side for in camp convenience or on the back so it protects the entry. Bag awnings, though less expensive than permanently mounted models, can be difficult to install and remove due to how high the top of the camper is from the ground. If you get a camper that doesn't have a furnace you may be able to add one -- or at least a catalytic heater -- to keep your warmer on in chilly weather. NEVER use the cooking stove for heating!   The limited cabinet space will probably restrict your entertainment system options, but, thanks to flat-panel LCD TVs, it is getting easier than it once was.  Inverters can give you 120 volt power for entertainment systems if you have sufficient battery power available.

Truck campers seldom have on board generators.  But that doesn't mean you have to do without.  It is possible to get engine-driven generators that will run off the truck engine.  They are used on ambulances and other emergency vehicles that need reliable 120-volt power and they are not cheap, but they are available and would be more practical than attempting to add a generator to a camper and more convenient than dragging along a portable generator.  Also, in the past, I've seen kits to run a 120-volt outlet off the vehicle alternator but a quick online search didn't come up with any current offerings so you may have to rely on an inverter if you have sufficient battery capacity.  The standard vehicle alternator should provide sufficient power to run lights and 12 volt appliances, but won't be enough for A/C units and other high amperage 120 volt appliances.

Keep on truckin!

Toy Haulers or Sport Utility Recreational Vehicles (SURVs)

Another type of RV, or sub-type, we haven't talked about yet specifically, are Sport Utility Recreational Vehicles (SURVs), more commonly known has toy haulers. These are especially relevant to those who enjoy the RV/OHV lifestyle. Most toy haulers are travel trailers or fifth wheels with a "garage" in back to carry dirt bikes, ATVs, snowmobiles, golf carts, or other toys. Obviously giving up 10-14 feet of living space for the "garage" means there are some compromises in living space compared to ordinary units of the same size. Some toy haulers have large beds built into a compartment over the garage, similar to the over-cab beds in Class C motorhomes. Some have electric beds that drop down from the ceiling in the cargo area. Most have fold down benches for seating so the garage space can be used as a temporary living space once the toys have been taken out. Most units have a "checkered aluminum" floor that is excellent for hauling the toys, but not particularly nice for living space, so many units have a roll out carpet or rug (or you can add your own) to make the space more fit for human occupancy. Once the toys are unloaded, the "garage" often doubles as a living room in camp. There are a few motorhomes designed with a "garage" to haul your toys, but they are not as common as trailers. You will usually have more living space, comfort, convenience, and luxury with a regular motorhome and a toy hauler or other utility trailer for your toys.
                        

I owned two of the earliest toy haulers. They were called Smugglers and were built by Journeyman in the 1970s. They had a very unique design. Instead of the large fold down ramp doors common on today's units, they had vertical "barn doors" on the back. Instead of having a separate "garage" in back the bikes were carried in the main living area. An interesting feature not found in modern units was that the carpeted floor opened up on hinges to expose rails for the dirt bikes -- and to protect the cabinets from the foot pegs. These were very compact trailers, with most of the features of an ordinary travel trailer of comparable size. The designers were very inventive. In addition to the hidden rails inside, the rear bumper was a 4" steel channel that could be flipped over to provide room to carry one more bike on the back of the trailer.   I found room to add another channel on the tongue for one more bike.  When the bikes were out, the interior was quite spacious, with easy access to cabinets, closets, stove, oven, sink, seating, beds, and ice box. In camp the Smuggler made a comfortable bedroom for 2 or 3 of our boys, relieving some of the congestion in the motorhome in addition to hauling the bikes and providing space to organize, transport, and store gear, tools, and spare parts.

Toy haulers have many advantages for those of us who enjoy OHV activities. You have a place to transport your toys combined with a comfortable living space for you and your family. Most have large rear door that doubles as a loading ramp.  You can usually put stabilizing jacks  under the out side corners to hold the ramp level if you want to use it as a deck.  They also give you a place to organize and store your riding gear, tools, supplies, and spare parts. Some folks even use them as a permanent garage to store their OHVs and gear at home. If you do more than an occasional OHV outing you will quickly come to appreciate the advantages of a well-equipped and well-organized toy hauler. Come to think about it, a well-organized toy-hauler may be even more of an asset if your trips are infrequent but it may be harder to justify the cost.

Most toy haulers include basic living space like you'd find in any RV: beds, bathroom, galley, living room. Most will include a furnace and hot water heater. Microwaves and roof air conditioners are popular options on models equipped with generators. Some of the more expensive models include elaborate home theater systems and outdoor entertainment centers. You can get just about anything you want if you have the budget.

Some optional features to look for include AC generators, microwaves, rear or side awnings, and fuel tanks to carry fuel for your OHVs. Fuel tank options sometimes include an electric pump feeding a small nozzle similar to the one you're used to seeing in gas stations.  A lower tech version has the fuel tank mounted up high and uses gravity to transfer fuel to your OHVs.  Some of the latest units even have railings to turn the rear cargo door into a raised patio "playpen" where the little ones can safely play and still enjoy the great outdoors, further demonstrating how family-oriented the RV and OHV lifestyle can be. There are many ways to organize your tools, gear, spare parts, etc. You will find dozens of options if you look under "race trailer accessories" on ebay and other web sites. Some of these gadgets can be pricey. I found it quite fun as well as cost effective, designing and building my own organizers, sometimes based on commercial offerings and sometimes of my own design based on needs and space available. They say "necessity is the mother of invention" and your storage needs will surely lead you to invent your own unique solutions.  Good organization is a vital key to making your toy hauler usable.  You want the tools, parts, gear, and other items you use frequently to be easily accessible yet stowed securely so they stay put on rough roads.

Keep in mind that hauling your toys in the trailer adds significant weight, so make sure your tow vehicle is up to the task. Check the hitch weight of the loaded trailer and the tow vehicle as well as the total Combined Vehicle Weight Rating of the tow vehicle to be sure you are within safe limits. Towing too big a trailer with too small a tow vehicle can have disastrous results. At the least, you will put extra stress on the vehicle drive train, leading to premature failure of critical components such as brakes, tires, transmissions, and engines. Not having a tow vehicle of sufficient size can lead to unsafe conditions. My son was towing a 27' toy hauler with a half-ton pickup truck when cross winds flipped the whole shebang over onto the left side. Both were totaled. The trailer was reduced to nothing but a lower frame, running gear, the ramp door, and a huge pile of rubble. He was an adult at the time and had a lot of experience towing trailers, so it was not a novice driver error but rather a simple matter of physics and being in the wrong place at the wrong time with the wrong vehicle combination. One of the most dangerous situations is created by towing a trailer too heavy for the tow vehicle, especially if there are no trailer brakes. The trailer soon becomes the "tail wagging the dog", causing the driver to loose control. Or, the trailer adds more weight than the vehicle brakes can stand and either the trailer pushes the vehicle into an accident or causes the vehicle brakes to overheat and become useless!  Toy haulers should have their own brakes, either electric brakes engaged by a controller in the tow vehicle or a "surge brake", which is activated by a hydraulic cylinder on the hitch.

Toy haulers give you the chance to get really well organized. I currently have a custom-built enclosed motorcycle trailer. While it lacks the full living quarters of a toy hauler, I did add a water tank and sink so I can fill Camelbaks without having to drag them into my RV and can wash up after a ride or working on the bikes without tracking dirt, mud, or grease into my motorhome. Mine has a workbench all the way across the front, with cabinets overhead and a large tool box underneath. I added shelves for helmets and other gear and rods to hang riding pants, jerseys, and jackets along the sides. I have a special rack to hang my tie downs and keep them untangled and readily accessible when they're not in use. I built custom racks to hold my gas cans just inside the back door where they're readily accessible. I added some exterior flood lights salvaged from an ambulance for working on the bikes after dark. I have a tube on the tongue where I can mount a flagpole to display my "Desert Rat" flag to help fellow Rats find our camp out in the desert. I mounted a trailer hitch tube vertically on the tongue to mount a tire changing stand. Fixing up and using my trailer has provided many hours of pleasurable and creative activity as well as making our outings more fun by making routine maintenance and repairs more convenient. The enclosed trailer also gives us a place to change in and out of riding gear without cluttering up or dirtying the motorhome or risking boot buckles damaging upholstery or scratching walls. Any dirt and mud that comes back with us from a ride is kept out of the motorhome.

My own enclosed motorcycle trailer is not designed for extra living space.   I have tried to make best use of all the available space to organize our riding gear, tools, spare parts, and other OHV related materials.  I've included a bench grinder and an air compressor.  I added a 120 volt RV air conditioner to cool it down on hot summer desert outings.  I had to add a dedicated, high amperage, outdoor outlet on my motorhome to provide adequate power to run the equipment in the trailer.  My trailer was custom built on a 5500 # axle so it has more carrying capacity that most single-axle utility trailers.  It already had workbench across the front inside when I bought it.  I added a sink and added high shelves along the sides to stow helmets and other riding gear.  I devised a series of  "closet rods" beneath the shelves that run perpendicular to the side of the trailer, allowing clothing to hang flat against the walls instead of extending out into the aisle where the bikes go.  There are 3 or 4 on each side, giving me a total of about 7' of closet rod, nearly as much as if I'd hung a regular rod under the shelves like it would be in a residential closet.  Hanging the clothing flat against the wall maintains the aisle space in the middle for the bikes.  Some other useful additions include a rack for hanging tie downs when they're not in use and a specialized framework on either side just inside the back door to contain several square off-road gas cans securely.  I'd rather not carry the gas cans in an enclosed space, but since it is not living space and I keep the trailer well ventilated, fumes have never been a problem.  And, of course, there is fuel in the gas tanks on the bikes anyway.  Several translucent plastic tubs of the right size to fit snugly on the shelves organize gloves, MX socks, goggles, and other small pieces of gear and equipment.   I built a lip around the shelves to keep things from sliding off in transit.  I use large spring clamps screwed to the shelves or walls to hang my knee braces and boots.  Hanging the boots prevents them sagging over and keeps them from bouncing around on rough roads.

A well designed and equipped toy hauler can provide all the facilities you need for you and your OHV toys. Some of the larger, fancier models, provide all the luxury living space you would want together with space to haul your toys and organize your tools, spare parts, supplies, and riding gear.

Happy hauling!