Boondocking or "Dry Camping"

Several recent reports I've read indicate more than around 3/4 of RV owners prefer camping in full hookup campgrounds,  in spite of the fact that most RVs are self-contained and capable of camping anywhere.  Most RV purchasers are looking for rigs that are fully self contained and capable of going off grid even though the majority of owners never use them that way.

Boondocking, also sometimes called dry camping, refers to camping "off the grid", without hook-ups. Mostly the term implies RV remote camping in primitive camp sites in open BLM or Forest Service camping areas. I've even seen some boondocking overlooking the ocean along the Pacific Coast Highway in California.  These outings can be very delightful and rewarding, but some special preparation is required to get the most out of the experience. Boondocking often gives a more "authentic" outdoor experience than staying in a full hook-up resort. Technically, you are off grid when you stop overnight in a rest area or Walmart parking lot or in front of your in-law's house, but it usually implies camping in a remote or primitive area without any facilities. When boondocking, you will not have direct access to water or electricity or sewer connections. You only have what you brought with you. That's when a fully self-contained RV come in really handy.

One of the primary concerns for boondocking is fresh water. If your RV has a small fresh water tank you will want to bring extra water in portable containers sufficient for your needs and your intended length of stay. Limit your fresh water use. Habits that work well at home such as rinsing dishes individually and letting the water just run while waiting for the shower to get warm wastes precious water. Wipe off dishes with a paper towel or old newspaper before washing and collect water in a plastic dishpan or portable container while the shower is warming up and use it for other tasks -- like rinsing dishes if your aren't happy with just wiping them down. When boondocking in a tent you'll need to bring plenty of water in plastic jugs. It is also a good idea to bring extra water for your RV and dump it into your fresh water holding tank as you use what is there. We haul several 5-6 gallon water jugs for a reserve. You can get them cheaply at Walmart. By the way, my wife came up with slick trick to deal with the loss of the little plastic plugs that are supposed to close the vent holes. She screwed in a plastic drywall anchor, the kind that look like large, white plastic screws. They are cheap and easy to install and remove.  They are self drilling so it is pretty easy to install them in the vent holes, which are usually smaller than the hole made by the anchor.  The easiest way to install them the first time is using a cordless drill-driver.  You may need a #2 phillips screwdriver to remove and reinstall them the first couple of times you use them.  Sure beats having water spill out of the vent hole or buying new water jugs!  The only way I've found of replacing the original plugs is to buy a kit to replace the spout too, which makes them kind of expensive.

Closely related to fresh water consumption is holding tank capacity. Dumping of sewage onto the ground is illegal as well unsanitary, unpleasant, and inconsiderate. By limiting your fresh water consumption you will also limit how quickly your holding tanks fill up. Gray water from sinks and showers can sometimes be drained into surface sumps.  Black water from the toilet must be drained into an approved sewer system.  Minimize holding tank filling by minimizing water consumption.  You may also avoid filling holding tanks by availing yourself of any available toilet facilities, if you are in a developed campground. The pit toilets in many primitive campgrounds are not be the most pleasant to use, but even worse is having your black-water tank back up into your coach. You can easily escape the foul odors of a pit toilet once you've finished your business, but getting away from fouled carpet in an RV is pretty hard. And it is very difficult to get it really clean and fresh again!

Tent campers will have to deal with managing their own wastes.  Without toilet facilities in remote locations, tent campers will have to dig their own latrines.  Dig them downwind and some distance from camp and at least 200' from any spring, creek, river, lake, or well.  If you don't know how to do this properly, seek instruction.  Improper latrines are a health and safety hazard and in many places are illegal and you could face serious fines for violations.

Power is another essential commodity for RV boondocking.   In fact, conserving your batteries may be the most important consideration.  Avoid unnecessary power consumption by retiring and rising with the sun if you can. If you choose to stay up after dark, use battery powered lights or gas lanterns to avoid draining your vehicle batteries. If you find that even with reasonable conservation measures your coach batteries are not adequate for your needs your batteries may be getting old or may simply be inadequate. You can usually upgrade the batteries to increase capacity. See my Battery Maintenance post for additional information. Increased battery capacity may be especially necessary if camping in cold weather since the battery is usually required to operate the furnace in an RV. That brings up another option to consider. If you are doing a lot of cold-weather camping, you may want to invest in one or more portable catalytic heaters. With adequate ventilation, these can be used in a confined space. A properly operating catalytic heater will not give off toxic fumes, but it will consume oxygen, so proper ventilation is absolutely essential to avoid suffocation. Typically leaving a window slightly open on each side of the RV is sufficient, but check the requirements of your unit to be sure. Forced air RV furnaces are more convenient but require outside venting and must be installed by a qualified technician. Of course, one can avoid the need to heat the RV inside by appropriate campfire activities, then retiring to a well insulated sleeping bag when the evening comes to a close. If you've ever done any tent camping, you are probably used to this approach and will find the RV more comfortable even without auxiliary heating, than a tent. Do not -- ever -- use the cooking stove or oven in an RV for heating purposes.   Incidental heating that occurs while cooking is OK, but don't turn on the oven or stove just to warm up the interior.  You will normally only use the stove or over a short time for cooking but may be tempted to run it much longer if you're trying to warm up a cold RV.  Not good!  These units release toxic fumes, especially carbon monoxide, that can be deadly as well as consuming oxygen! Follow the manufacturer's instructions for venting your cook stove or oven when using them for their intended purposes. Of course, excess heat from cooking on your RV stove or using   the RV oven will help warm your RV, but don't rely on it for all your heat. The furnace is designed for -- and safe -- for that purpose. The stove isn't! And don't discount the value of body heat. Just having several people inside your RV can warm it up considerably if it is well insulated. Each person generates about as much heat as a 100 watt light bulb, which is quite a bit.  Minimize opening doors and make sure all windows and roof vents are closed during cold weather. If you think your stove is creating too much pollution, open a window and a roof vent. This will help get rid of toxic fumes and cooking odors, bring in fresh air, and help remove excess heat. Powered roof vents are especially good for this purpose.  Tent campers need only be concerned about their vehicle batteries, which will normally not be drained unless you use vehicle lighting in camp, place the radio or other electronic devices significantly, or run other 12-volt appliances.  If you use the 12-volt power from your vehicle in camp, be sure to monitor battery condition so you don't end up stranded by a dead battery when its time to go home.

You can avoid heat loss in an RV by making sure windows and doors close and seal properly and any cracks are caulked or sealed with foam insulation. We all enjoy the panoramic views offered by large RV windows, but unless they are double-pane, thermal protected windows, they transfer heat rather efficiently. Keeping the blinds or curtains closed will help keep the heat in when you want it in and out when you want it out, keeping you warmer in winter and cooler in summer. There are add-on storm window kits available at hardware stores you can use. These are clear plastic films that are stretched over the windows and shrunk tight using a hair dryer. Another simple solution is to cut foil foam bubble insulation to fit each window. This is available in bulk rolls from hardware and home improvement stores and RV stores or they can be made from automobile windshield shades. The bulk insulation is usually thicker and provides more protection against heat loss than automotive shades. Any of the foam panels work well to keep your RV warmer in winter and cooler in summer but you have to sacrifice the view. Usually the improved comfort level in winter or summer is well worth giving up the view and you can always step outside or remove the panels for a few minutes if you really want to soak up some atmosphere. When you are done, your RV will be waiting for you providing a comfortable refuge from outside weather.

If you boondock a lot and find you are constantly running out of fresh water or filling your holding tanks too soon, you may want to upgrade to a unit with larger tank capacities -- or bring extra water or plan sufficient trips back to civilization to meet your needs. We used to haul a 55 gallon barrel of water with us in the pickup that towed our motorcycle trailer when we were dirt biking in the desert with a family of 8 for days at a time -- on top of the 100 gallons of fresh water in the Class A motorhome's tank. This was possible because we brought a pickup and trailer to haul the dirt bikes. It may be possible to upgrade the tanks on some rigs, but most are so integrated into the structure that installing larger or additional tanks isn't very feasible or cost effective. Sometimes you may be able add supplemental tanks in unused spaces but that requires careful engineering to ensure structural integrity (water is VERY heavy -- 8 lbs per gallon) and functionality (filling and efficient transfer between the main and supplemental tanks). You may need additional suspension modifications to accommodate the extra weight. External portable holding tanks can be used to expand your capacity between visits to the dump station as long as you have a safe way to transport them to the next dump station.

In addition to learning how to make use of your self-contained RV for boondocking, you'll need to figure out how to find some suitable places to go.  There are many places on BLM and US Forest Service lands in the western United States where "dispersed" camping is permitted.  There are no BLM managed lands east of the Mississippi River but there are Forest Service facilities nationwide.  A lot of Forest Service campgrounds have no hook ups, so you could end up boondocking in an actual campground.  Be aware that there are often privately owned lands near or even within Forest Service boundaries and using them without permission would be a definite NO-NO.  You'd be trespassing and could be be fined or even imprisoned.  If you go camping in a primitive Forest Service campground, you'll probably find a fire ring and perhaps a picnic table at each designated site but no hookups. Locations such as this can provide a good introduction to boondocking.  You'll have chance to learn how to use your RV self reliance features and develop your skills without being totally in the wild.  If you should fill your holding tanks, you will probably still have access to toilet facilities in the campground to help get you by.

When you graduate to using dispersed camping sites where there are NO facilities,  you will get to select your own site rather than park in a designated space.  You'll have to choose and prepare a safe place for your campfire (assuming the area isn't under fire restrictions).  Check with the local rangers to find out where dispersed camping is permitted.  They can also give you some idea of which areas are most popular.  If you are seeking solitude, you may want to avoid popular spots, but using popular places will allow you to take advantage of fire pits that have already been prepared by previous campers and you may also be able to find convenient routes in and suitable places to park without a lot of trouble or negotiating terrain that could damage your vehicle.  Previously used camp sites usually make it easier to find the most level place to park.

Wild animals are not usually a problem in established campgrounds, but when you are camping in primitive, remote locations, you may encounter them. Most animals, even predators, are usually cautious or even scared of humans and will keep their distance, especially if you have a good fire going or are making plenty of noise. Snakes, not so much. They'll crawl right into camp. We've killed more than one rattlesnake in the desert when it crept right under someone's rig and into camp. In the interest of not wasting natural resources, many of the snakes found their way into dinner and their skins decorated hats or were made into belts. NOTE: we did NOT go snake hunting. We usually try to scare them off first, but it that doesn't work we protected ourselves against unwanted visitors -- who no doubt considered us the invaders in the first place -- then we made good use of the kill. And yes, snake does taste like chicken. Bears and raccoons are a problem in some forest areas. Keep your food locked up or out of reach. Never feed wild animals or leave food out for them. Coyotes may be a threat to pets but usually stay clear of humans.  We almost always heard coyotes at night when camping in the Mojave Desert but never had any come anywhere near camp.  Mountain lions sometimes make the news by attacking people but are normally pretty shy and mostly leave people alone. If there is any history of aggressive animals in an area you plan to visit, check with the local ranger or land manager to determine if it is safe at this time and learn of any special precautions you should take. The girls in the movie, "The Parent Trap" embarrassed their father's girlfriend by convincing her that banging two sticks together would keep the mountain lions away, an idea that was soundly denounced in the movie. However, noise IS often a deterrent to many wild animals so that loud heavy metal music your teenagers love blaring at the threshold of pain may have some value after all.

Stick it out in the sticks!