Teardrop Trailers

Teardrop trailers are NOT travel trailers that cause a lot of grief or sadness. "Teardrop" refers to the shape of the trailer, not owner's reaction. No doubt many tears have been shed over 'lemons' and other bad purchases or even the loss of a favorite RV, but that is not what this post is about. It is about a very popular, light weight travel trailer design that has proven itself for more than 80 years. 

                                                        

I have made quick mention of "tear drop" trailers before. I've never personally owned one, but I had an aunt and uncle who traveled all over the western United States in one back in the 1950s. I envied them.  Whenever we traveled we camped in a tent or had to find motels.  Teardrop trailers are a kind of unique form of bumper pull travel trailer, unique enough to merit their own discussion. The "teardrop trailer" has been around since at least the 1930's and is a popular light weight camping trailer. It takes its name from its teardrop shape, with a relatively high rounded front tapering off to a pointed rear end. They are regaining popularity as gas prices continue to climb. Their light weight and streamline design make them economical to tow. Some people find the retro design appealing too. The main body of the trailer is primarily a sleeping area and is typically only about 4-5' high at most so there usually isn't room to stand up in them. The rear of the trailer opens up like a hatchback so that the door forms a sort of canopy over the "kitchen" or galley area built into the back. You can special order your new teardrop to have this kitchen area configured just about any way you would like them.  Basically, the rear kitchen is a glorified "chuck box". They typically include a small sink and a single burner propane or butane stove. They may or may not include an ice box so you might still need an ice chest.  The more clever designs have a special compartment in the back for the ice chest.  These units are especially good for towing behind smaller vehicles since they weigh under 1000 pounds, some as low as 750 pounds and have a tongue weight of only 75-85 pounds. With such light weight and good aerodynamics, they are easy to tow and have a minimal affect on fuel economy while providing very comfortable, weather-proof sleeping quarters and convenient but not weatherproof kitchen facilities. Their small size also makes them easy to store and one person can maneuver them easily into parking areas or even into your garage. A teardrop trailer is an economical alternative to tent camping. You gain the convenience of a sleeping area that is protected from elements and critters and maintain much of the feeling of "real" camping using the outdoor kitchen. The solid walls provide a lot more insulation than a tent to maintain a more comfortable and quieter sleeping environment. They don't usually have a furnace or heater so you might need a tent heater on particularly cold nights. These days you can get many accessories for your teardrop trailer, including special tents designed to attach to the side door of the trailer, adding a stand-up dressing room and additional living space. Throw in a porta-potty and you'll pretty much have all the conveniences of home.

Teardrop trailers come in a variety of sizes and configurations. They are probably best suited to single campers or couples. A small family might squeeze into one if you're OK all sleeping in one bed, but even tent trailers generally provide more room (and separate beds) for more people -- plus stand up headroom. I recently saw a unique teardrop trailer with a slideout that significantly increased the size of the sleeping area.

Teardrop trailers don't usually have heaters. Most people find that body heat alone is sufficient to keep the interior comfortable through the night. Each human generates about as much heat as a 100 watt incandescent light bulb.   In extra cold weather, put your Coleman lantern inside for a few minutes before bedtime and it will be toasty when you hit the sack (open a window a little so it doesn't use up all the oxygen and/or pollute the air). Other possibilities would include just about any tent heater. Just be sure to maintain adequate ventilation using any heater or lantern indoors or you'll not only sleep through the night, you'll sleep forever!

Even though the standup room in most teardrops is limited, you still have a more private and convenient dressing room than, say, a pup tent or a small dome tent. I have seen some models that pop up like a tent trailer so there is room to stand up, but most are limited to 4'-5' interior height.

Here is an interesting variation of a teardrop that does have stand up headroom: you might call it a teardrop tent trailer.  Not sure what they do for a galley on this variation, but it is certainly an innovative solution.

Here is an enhanced, modern version of a tent trailer that even has an innovative front slide out:  Enhanced Teardrop Trailer. 

Teardrop owners tend to be almost fanatical about their units, so take that into consideration when talking to owners or salesmen of teardrops. You might find a teardrop that meets your needs, so check them out.

Teardrop trailers are a popular design with do-it-yourselfers. You can see some photos of teardrop trailers here, where you an also purchase plans to build your very own.

Because many teardrop trailers were originally homemade or ordered with custom design features, you probably won't find a lot of consistency among used units.  If you find one you particularly like you should probably grab it up before someone else does.  The next one could have a very different configuration.  

The nostalgic design makes them ideal to tow behind classic or antique vehicles.

No tears with THESE teardrops!

Tent Trailers

Tent trailers are a popular entry-level RV. They are generally light weight and inexpensive compared to other options. Because they are light weight they can be pulled my many family cars, even some compacts, eliminating the need for a special tow vehicle.

As the name implies, tent trailers are a cross between a tent and a travel trailer. They are collapsible so they have a low profile on the road. When extended they have full headroom inside. A tent trailer is essentially a tent with solid floors, a partial lower wall, and roofs or a trailer with canvas walls. The walls between the roof and the solid lower wall are made of canvas, like a tent. Most tent trailers provide nearly all the amenities of a travel trailer, including spacious and comfortable beds and a well-equipped galley. Most tent trailers are not fully self contained, meaning they don't usually have bathrooms. Many do include a porta-potty (or one can be added) to reduce late night trips to the camp restrooms. Tent trailer's light weight makes them easy to tow but it also makes them a little less stable in camp and on the road than larger, heavier trailers. Even with stabilizers you'll notice the difference in camp. Some tent trailers, such as the one pictured above, have 'pop outs' for the beds. They greatly expand the living space by moving the beds outside the primary floor space, but they tend to be somewhat unsteady. Always be sure the braces beneath them are properly extended and locked. Even then, the leverage makes them a little shaky, which is disconcerting to some people. The canvas walls mean you will hear wind and rain and outside noises loudly.  The canvas will transfer a lot of heat, making them somewhat warm in summer and cold in winter, and the very walls may flap in any breeze. Keeping a tent trailer warm or cool enough is a little easier than maintaining the temperature in a tent, but more difficult than it is in an RV with solid walls.  Many tent trailers include propane powered furnaces that generally keep them pretty comfortable when the weather turns cool.

Heating or cooling a tent trailer has some of the problems of a tent. The canvas walls do not provide a lot of insulation. However, a solid roof, floor, and partial walls provide more protection than a tent and some tent trailers may be equipped with forced air furnaces for added comfort and convenience. In summer, cooling has similar drawbacks. Heat enters through the canvas walls and thin plastic windows.

Tent trailers aren't usually equipped with air conditioners.  Air conditioners require 120-volt shore or generator power.  In addition they are heavy and don't lend themselves to being installed on the raiseable roof of tent trailers.  You pretty much have to cool a tent trailer as you would a tent.

Tent trailers are a good transition from tent camping to RVing. The "real" beds in a tent trailer are a definite boon to anyone with back problems or who has difficulty sleeping on the ground. Having stand-up headroom makes many tasks, such a dressing and cooking, much easier. Speaking of cooking, it is OK and even desirable to cook in a tent trailer. Most have well-equipped though often compact galleys. You still want to avoid cooking things that produce strong odors as they will permeate the canvas and you'll be living with the smell long after the meal is done. Some odors will deteriorate over time and become really disgusting. You may want to bring along some Fabreze or similar fabric freshener, just in case. Making sure you have adequate ventilation when cooking can minimize potential odor problems.

Because tent trailers are generally light weight, they are somewhat unstable in wind. The instability is apparent both when towing and in camp.  Using stabilizers on each corner in camp will greatly reduce rocking but the canvas could still be susceptible to flapping and to damage in high winds. If it gets windy enough, you may have to close it down and sit in the car and wait out the storm to avoid serious damage to the canvas. Because they are so much lighter than solid wall RVs, they may be more likely to be blown over in high winds in camp. On the road, their low profile keeps them fairly stable, but once again, light weight makes them susceptible to wind gusts and even blow-by from passing trucks.  Because they are often towed by smaller vehicles, the wind effects are typically felt more intensely by the driver than when towing a heavier travel trailer with a larger vehicle.

Tent trailers are usually easier to set up than tents. You don't have to roll them out, stake them down, or setup poles and ropes. All the components are connected so you don't lose poles and stakes. The presence of beds, tables and seating areas, lighting, furnaces, and water systems makes them far more comfortable and convenient than tents. All this without taking up any room in the family car. Some high end models are equipped with electric motors to raise and lower the roof but most require either manual lifting or manual cranking. That means you will have some setup time when you arrive in camp and, if the weather is bad, it may be uncomfortable and tedious, especially when extending the pop-outs.

Always chock the wheels before you disconnect the trailer from your tow vehicle. Even a slight slope may cause the trailer to roll if it isn't blocked. Even as comparatively light as a tent trailer is, is bigger than you are and it can easily run you over if you try to stop it by getting in front of it!

Despite some of the special considerations, tent trailers are still an effective and economical way to begin RVing. They are inexpensive, easy to tow, and provide a great amount of creature comforts. You just have to know how to use them and understand and be prepared to live with their limitations and their idiosyncrasies.  If you need a low profile, for towing or for storage in your garage, a pop-up tent trailer will surely fit the bill.

Lest you think tent trailers are for sissies, check out this version from Australia, the ConquerorAustralia off road trailer.  It is loaded with inhabitant comforts and is incredibly strong.  But it comes with a hefty price tag to match:  about $46,000!  Not exactly entry level.  But if you really want to go camping off road, this is one way to do it.  Tow it with a suitable 4x4 and you can go just about anywhere.

I have even seen a little tent trailer designed to be towed by an ATV for really remote camping.

                                                                                                      
    

Tent trailers have been around a very long time.  There was even a patent for a horse-drawn tent trailer in 1894 and clever inventors starting building various tent systems for motor car use almost as soon as motor cars went into production in the early 1900s.  For a lot of background on tent trailer history, see Popup Camper History.

Tow it easy!

Towable RVs

There are two general classes of towable RVs: bumper pull or tow behind and fifth wheel. A bumper pull or tow behind trailer is the traditional style travel trailer that can be pulled behind any car, truck, or SUV with a hitch of adequate towing capacity and sufficient power. A fifth wheel can only be towed by a pickup or specialized tow vehicle equipped with a fifth wheel hitch, similar to those used by commercial semis. A gooseneck trailer is a variation of a fifth wheel that uses a ball hitch mounted in the bed of a pickup instead of a fifth wheel hitch. Gooseneck trailers typically have about the same functionality and handling characteristics as a fifth wheel. I will address tent trailers and tear-drop trailers, special sub-groups of small bumper pull trailers in more detail in subsequent posts.

Towables versus motor homes. Towables keep the camping unit separate from the towing vehicle. This usually means a lower cost for the camping unit and often it can be towed by an existing vehicle, further reducing the cost of acquisition. It also means you have a vehicle available for use once you've unhitched the trailer and set up camp. This can be advantageous when you are going shopping or sightseeing. Some motor home owners tow a "dingy" -- a small car or truck -- behind their motor homes in order to have local transportation once camp is set up. I saw one extremist solution where a huge, bus conversion was towing a limo as its dingy!  One advantage of a motor home over a trailer is that your passengers have access to all the facilities of the motor home while on the road. With a trailer, you have to pull over somewhere and get out of your tow vehicle to make use of the facilities. Riding in a towed trailer is restricted or illegal in many states.  Towable RVs range from small, light weight tent trailers to humongous units with multiple axles and near residential living space.

Tent trailers are often a good entry point into the RV lifestyle. They are typically relatively inexpensive to purchase and to operate, yet provide many if not most of the conveniences of other types of recreational vehicles. If you expect to be camping in extreme weather conditions, a tent trailer does have many of the disadvantages of a tent such as susceptibility to high winds and minimal insulation against heat or cold. Because of their light weight they are often subject to movement that is disconcerting to some people. The movement may be due to external forces, such as wind, or internal forces, such as the routine movement of people within the unit. Stabilizing jacks can minimize movement. Tent trailers can be awkward for one person to set up by themselves, so, if you plan to use one alone, be sure you can set it up and take it down without help -- or have sufficient help available.  More about tent trailers in a subsequent post.

A step up from tent trailers are pop-up trailers. These are collapsible, hard-sided trailers. They are usually lighter in weight and lower in height (while being towed) than conventional travel trailers but avoid some of the pitfalls of tent trailers. For example, the hard sides are more resistant to wind, weather, and wear, and to punctures and tears that sometimes beset tent trailers. Collapsible trailers usually use crank-up techniques or even electric motors that can be easily handled by one person.  If you need a low profile trailer but don't like the flapping walls of tent trailers, a pop-up trailer might be the answer.  Tent trailers usually use pop-outs for the beds so they may have more usable floor space than pop-up trailers.

Traditional bumper-pull travel trailers offer near ready-to use convenience when you arrive at a campsite. All that is required is to block the wheels and level and stabilize the trailer -- and, connect to water and electricity if you are in a camp site with hookups. The convenience of simply entering the trailer, turning down the bed, and getting a good night's sleep without the hassle of extended set up procedures makes a traditional travel trailer an attractive choice for many campers. The amenities and conveniences will depend on the size and price of the unit. Most simple travel trailers will include sleeping, heating and cooking facilities. Self-contained units will include a fresh water tank, bathroom facilities, and holding tanks. Units with 120 volt generators may include air conditioning. Entertainment options may range from a simple am/fm radio and perhaps a cassette or CD player in smaller units to full-blown home theater systems in larger, more expensive trailers.

Fifth-wheel trailers. The major difference between bumper-pull and fifth wheel trailers is how the trailer is attached to the vehicle. Fifth wheel advocates claim enhanced stability when towing, but backing and parking a fifth wheel may require some extra training and practice. Fifth wheel advocates praise the maneuverability of their units once they get used to them. The layouts may be different also, since fifth wheels have sections with reduced headroom over the hitch (often used as a bedroom) while bumper pulls typically have full head room their full length. Amenities and conveniences of tow-behinds and fifth wheels are comparable among units of similar size and price. To make use of the raised space over the hitch, fifth wheel trailers usually have some inside stairs, which is something to consider if anyone who will be using it has physical limitations that would make climbing stairs uncomfortable.  Sometimes there is a second bedroom on the main level or sofas and/or dinettes that make into beds so using the upper level could be avoided.

Gooseneck trailers look and handle a lot like fifth wheel trailers, but they use a ball hitch mounted in the bed of the pickup instead of a fifth wheel hitch.

 Since not all trailers come equipped with on board generators, portable generators are a popular solution these days.   Modern portable generators are small, quiet, and fuel efficient, making them attractive to many campers  in small RVs and even tents these days.

There is no ideal RV for everyone. Everyone has different tastes and different needs and different budgets -- and they will vary at different times of our lives. So consider the choices and pick the RV that suits YOU NOW.

Take your pick!

Micro-mini motorhomes

Micro-mini motorhomes were Class C motorhomes built on a 3/4 ton Toyota pickup chassis. Some brands I recall were Dolphin, Seabreeze, Odessey and New Horizon. They were typically about 19-20 feet long. Much of their appeal was relatively good fuel economy, low cost, ease of driving, and the ability to fit into small forest service camp sites. Some people even used them as a second car.

       

The engine size in the original Toyota pickup determined the power of the motorhome. I believe there were at least two power plants offered, a 4-cylinder and a V-6. The higher the power, the better the acceleration and towing capactiy; the lower the power, the better the fuel economy (usually). When buyers ordered new units they could choose the power plant they wanted based on whether they wanted better performance or better fuel economy -- and how much extra they were willing to pay. Those who bought them off the lot -- new or used -- had to take whatever was available. For more power, some innovative owners replaced the original Toyota engines with GM V-6s or even small-block V-8s, sacrificing fuel economy for impressive power.  The light weight chassis and small motorhome body contributed to better fuel economy than typically found in larger Class C's with the same power plant  while delivering superior acceleration and towing capacity.

Typical configurations were fully self contained, but like many mini-motorhomes of the day, on-board 120 volt generators were optional so you won't always find them on micro-mini motorhomes. They did, however, have innovative floor plans that allowed a large cab over bed, a comfortable dinette, a fully equipped galley, and complete sanitation facilities. To fit it all in a small unit, the "bathroom" was very compact, a single compartment that served as both shower and toilet area with a small sink on one side. Though not spacious by any means, they were surprisingly adequate for normal sized adults but straddling the toilet while showering took some getting used to. Some compact bathrooms solved that problem with a toilet that folded up into the wall under the sink. We even  had one small Class A with a similar compact bathroom.

Micro-mini motorhomes were amazingly comfortable. My Mom and Dad and adult sister and Grandmother traveled thousands of miles in a 19' New Horizon motorhome until they upgraded to a 23' mini motorhome with a little more room and a lot more power.  My Dad, who was a professional auto mechanic, really appreciated the extra power.

There was one known serious defect with the Toyota-based micro-minis: the rear axle. The coach builders used the standard Toyota 3/4 ton pickup axle and added innovative, custom-built dual wheels for extra load carrying capacity. Unfortunately, the extra leverage of the extended wheels coupled with the weight of the motorhome body over-stressed the wheel bearings in the 3/4 ton axles. There were enough problems that Toyota offered 1-ton replacement axles. My dad, who was a mechanic, was negotiating delivery of a 1-ton axle for his New Horizon when he upgraded to his larger, Chevrolet van based, Jamboree. Some of the later models came from the factory with a 1-ton rear axle.  If you should buy one that still has the original 3/4 ton axle, it may be a good investment to find a 1-ton axle to replace it if you plan to keep it for a while.  If you find one that already has the 1-ton axle, so much the better.  You may get by with the original 3/4 ton axle for a while, but if it ever does have to be replaced, or if you have the budget for the conversion, it is a very good idea to upgrade to the 1 ton model to avoid future problems.

If your family can fit in a 19' floor plan (it should handle up to 4 people comfortably, especially if some of them are children), and you're interested in relatively good fuel economy, you might look for a good used micro-mini motorhome. Like all motorhomes, they will have often spent most of their lives just sitting, which is both good and bad. It is good because there will be low mileage on the chassis. It is bad, because lack of use allows both the coach and some mechanical parts to deteriorate. If you find one, it is probably going to need some TCL before you are satisfied with it and it may need significant mechanical work. I've seen power plants upgraded to US made V-6s or even small V-8s that yield better performance and still maintain fairly good fuel economy because of the relatively light weight of the unit. If you find one that has already been upgraded, seek documentation of the upgrade. Engine conversions can be tricky. If done right you shouldn't have any problems but if they weren't done right you could have nothing but trouble. Check to see if it has had the axle upgrade. If not you may have to find a 1-ton axle in a junkyard to make the change yourself. If it hasn't been updated, keep a close eye on the rear wheel bearings. If the hubs get hot when you're driving, the bearings are probably going out. Given the history of these axles, chances are sooner or later the bearings will go out it and it will destroy the axle. If you have to replace the axle, make sure you get a 1-ton axle and not another 3/4 ton model.

Talk about a real "micro" mini motorhome, check out this custom RV built on a Volkswagen bug. These were custom built by a company in Irvine, California and you can still buy plans for this unique "Minihome" online today:

And for a really "micro" unit, some enterprising folks have built motorcycle based Class C type motorhomes.  I don't think I'd want to be driving one like this in any kind of extreme weather.

                                                                                                      


For die-hard envirnonmentalists, there are even bicycle based motorhomes.  I sure wouldn't want to try pedal one of these up a a hill!  Small at it is I'm sure it weights a lot more than I do, even with the middle age spread that has followed me into retirement.  I'll bet pedaling one of these around for a while would quickly take care of that for me!  Note the flat bed "bi-truck" in the background too.                                                




Micros are cool!

What is a Class C Motor Home?

Class C motorhomes are often called "mini" motorhomes. A Class C Motor home is one built on a cut-away chassis and sometimes referred to as a "semi-integrated" motorhome. Think about cutting a van or truck off just behind the driver's seat and mounting a travel trailer on the cut-away portion of the chassis. In fact, some of the very first home made Class C motor homes were exactly that: a pickup with the bed removed and a small travel trailed bolted on in place of the bed. Traditionally, Class C motor homes were built on cut-away van or full size pickup chassis, but for a time so-called "micro-mini" motor homes were built on a Toyota pickup chassis. I've even seen photos of a little Class C built on a VW bug! These days, manufacturers (including Dodge, Ford and Chevrolet) provide factory-built cutaway chassis to builders of Class C motorhomes. The Dodge "Sprinter" chassis, powered by a Mercedes diesel engine is a also popular choice that delivers superb performance and fuel economy -- for a motorhome. Today manufacturers are also offering "Super C" motorhomes, built on the heavy duty trucks used to pull semi-trailers.  They are roomy and excellent handling and ride characteristics and huge towing capacity.

  

Class C motor homes often offer spacious sleeping accommodations partially due to the large bed often built over the driver's compartment. This is also one of the most distinguishing characteristic of most Class C motor homes. Class C's are often the foundation for "bunkhouse" motorhomes that sleep 8-10 people.  In some Class C's, the cab over space is used to house elaborate entertainment systems in units designed for couples rather than families. The cab-over bed is sometimes counted as holding 3 people but you'd better be pretty good friends; if not you will be by morning!

Class C motor homes typically have smaller fresh water and holding tank capacities than Class A coaches, often around 25 gallons, compared to 80-100 gallons on most Class A's. This limits the length of any "off-grid" trips. Many, but certainly not all, Class C motor homes are fully self-contained and often come equipped with 120 volt generators.

Super C's are a kind of sub-class of Class C motorhomes built on a heavy duty truck chassis (like those that pull semi-trailers). They are typically, large, powerful, and luxurious. They are favored by people who do a lot of traveling because the chassis and driver comfort is designed for over-the-road truckers. As you might expect, they also have impressive towing capacities.  They are usually diesel powered giving them surprisingly good fuel economy for such a big rig as well as great torque for astonishing towing capacity.

Because Class C motor homes are built on modified truck or van chassis, the driving, performance, and mileage characteristics are usually similar to those of the chassis on which their are built. In deed, sitting in the cab of a Class C is not much different than sitting in a cargo van based on the same chassis. However, one must be aware of increased height, width, and weight of the vehicle when driving and parking.

If you need increased sleeping capacity for a growing family, or the ability to access routes and camp sites with size limitations, a Class C motor home may be a good choice for you. Towing capacities are typically fairly generous so long as the coach itself is not overloaded. Class C's can often negotiate roads to remote forest service campgrounds that would be off-limits to large Class As.

"C" you around!

What is a Class B Motor Home?

A Class B motor home is essentially a van conversion.   They are sometimes called a "camper van".  While many units will have a "bubble top" or "pop top" for additional headroom, typical Class B motor homes are built within the confines of the regular van body. The driving characteristics, mileage, and performance are very close to those of an ordinary passenger van. Class B motor homes may be self-contained, meaning they have full bathroom facilities and holding tanks, but some smaller units or less expensive only offer a Port-a-potty if that, and have no shower. The fresh water and holding tank capacities of those that are self contained are necessarily limited. Because of size and weight limitations, Class B motorhomes can but don't usually have an on board generator.

                                                             

A couple camping without children or even a small family may fit comfortably in a Class B motor home, but plan to bring extra water and make frequent stops to dump holding tanks (if so equipped) as there is not much room for large fresh water or holding tanks on these vehicles.   My first commercially built motorhome was a Class B with a pop top and it served our little family of 4 well until we out grew it when child number 3 came along. 120 Volt generators, typical on many larger motor homes, are optional and uncommon in Class B units. Some owners opt for a portable generator to power roof A/C and other 120-volt appliances when boondocking, but where to carry it in route and where to put it when you're not in camp can be a problem.  A convenient although somewhat expensive alternative is an engine driven 120 volt generator like those used on ambulances. 

Class B units offer maximum maneuverability and can sometimes be used as a second car. Water, propane, and holding tanks are usually small, so you may need to bring along additional supplies for extending boondocking. They are fun to drive and can pretty much go just about anywhere a car can go. If they don't have a high, extended roof, they can usually fit in a standard garage as well as any ordinary full size van.

If you need a 4-wheel drive motorhome, you'll find more choices among Class B units than other categories because they can be built on a 4WD van chassis.

"B" happy in your Class B!