Tent Trailers

Tent trailers are a popular entry-level RV. They are generally light weight and inexpensive compared to other options. Because they are light weight they can be pulled my many family cars, even some compacts, eliminating the need for a special tow vehicle.

As the name implies, tent trailers are a cross between a tent and a travel trailer. They are collapsible so they have a low profile on the road. When extended they have full headroom inside. A tent trailer is essentially a tent with solid floors, a partial lower wall, and roofs or a trailer with canvas walls. The walls between the roof and the solid lower wall are made of canvas, like a tent. Most tent trailers provide nearly all the amenities of a travel trailer, including spacious and comfortable beds and a well-equipped galley. Most tent trailers are not fully self contained, meaning they don't usually have bathrooms. Many do include a porta-potty (or one can be added) to reduce late night trips to the camp restrooms. Tent trailer's light weight makes them easy to tow but it also makes them a little less stable in camp and on the road than larger, heavier trailers. Even with stabilizers you'll notice the difference in camp. Some tent trailers, such as the one pictured above, have 'pop outs' for the beds. They greatly expand the living space by moving the beds outside the primary floor space, but they tend to be somewhat unsteady. Always be sure the braces beneath them are properly extended and locked. Even then, the leverage makes them a little shaky, which is disconcerting to some people. The canvas walls mean you will hear wind and rain and outside noises loudly.  The canvas will transfer a lot of heat, making them somewhat warm in summer and cold in winter, and the very walls may flap in any breeze. Keeping a tent trailer warm or cool enough is a little easier than maintaining the temperature in a tent, but more difficult than it is in an RV with solid walls.  Many tent trailers include propane powered furnaces that generally keep them pretty comfortable when the weather turns cool.

Heating or cooling a tent trailer has some of the problems of a tent. The canvas walls do not provide a lot of insulation. However, a solid roof, floor, and partial walls provide more protection than a tent and some tent trailers may be equipped with forced air furnaces for added comfort and convenience. In summer, cooling has similar drawbacks. Heat enters through the canvas walls and thin plastic windows.

Tent trailers aren't usually equipped with air conditioners.  Air conditioners require 120-volt shore or generator power.  In addition they are heavy and don't lend themselves to being installed on the raiseable roof of tent trailers.  You pretty much have to cool a tent trailer as you would a tent.

Tent trailers are a good transition from tent camping to RVing. The "real" beds in a tent trailer are a definite boon to anyone with back problems or who has difficulty sleeping on the ground. Having stand-up headroom makes many tasks, such a dressing and cooking, much easier. Speaking of cooking, it is OK and even desirable to cook in a tent trailer. Most have well-equipped though often compact galleys. You still want to avoid cooking things that produce strong odors as they will permeate the canvas and you'll be living with the smell long after the meal is done. Some odors will deteriorate over time and become really disgusting. You may want to bring along some Fabreze or similar fabric freshener, just in case. Making sure you have adequate ventilation when cooking can minimize potential odor problems.

Because tent trailers are generally light weight, they are somewhat unstable in wind. The instability is apparent both when towing and in camp.  Using stabilizers on each corner in camp will greatly reduce rocking but the canvas could still be susceptible to flapping and to damage in high winds. If it gets windy enough, you may have to close it down and sit in the car and wait out the storm to avoid serious damage to the canvas. Because they are so much lighter than solid wall RVs, they may be more likely to be blown over in high winds in camp. On the road, their low profile keeps them fairly stable, but once again, light weight makes them susceptible to wind gusts and even blow-by from passing trucks.  Because they are often towed by smaller vehicles, the wind effects are typically felt more intensely by the driver than when towing a heavier travel trailer with a larger vehicle.

Tent trailers are usually easier to set up than tents. You don't have to roll them out, stake them down, or setup poles and ropes. All the components are connected so you don't lose poles and stakes. The presence of beds, tables and seating areas, lighting, furnaces, and water systems makes them far more comfortable and convenient than tents. All this without taking up any room in the family car. Some high end models are equipped with electric motors to raise and lower the roof but most require either manual lifting or manual cranking. That means you will have some setup time when you arrive in camp and, if the weather is bad, it may be uncomfortable and tedious, especially when extending the pop-outs.

Always chock the wheels before you disconnect the trailer from your tow vehicle. Even a slight slope may cause the trailer to roll if it isn't blocked. Even as comparatively light as a tent trailer is, is bigger than you are and it can easily run you over if you try to stop it by getting in front of it!

Despite some of the special considerations, tent trailers are still an effective and economical way to begin RVing. They are inexpensive, easy to tow, and provide a great amount of creature comforts. You just have to know how to use them and understand and be prepared to live with their limitations and their idiosyncrasies.  If you need a low profile, for towing or for storage in your garage, a pop-up tent trailer will surely fit the bill.

Lest you think tent trailers are for sissies, check out this version from Australia, the ConquerorAustralia off road trailer.  It is loaded with inhabitant comforts and is incredibly strong.  But it comes with a hefty price tag to match:  about $46,000!  Not exactly entry level.  But if you really want to go camping off road, this is one way to do it.  Tow it with a suitable 4x4 and you can go just about anywhere.

I have even seen a little tent trailer designed to be towed by an ATV for really remote camping.

                                                                                                      
    

Tent trailers have been around a very long time.  There was even a patent for a horse-drawn tent trailer in 1894 and clever inventors starting building various tent systems for motor car use almost as soon as motor cars went into production in the early 1900s.  For a lot of background on tent trailer history, see Popup Camper History.

Tow it easy!

Towable RVs

There are two general classes of towable RVs: bumper pull or tow behind and fifth wheel. A bumper pull or tow behind trailer is the traditional style travel trailer that can be pulled behind any car, truck, or SUV with a hitch of adequate towing capacity and sufficient power. A fifth wheel can only be towed by a pickup or specialized tow vehicle equipped with a fifth wheel hitch, similar to those used by commercial semis. A gooseneck trailer is a variation of a fifth wheel that uses a ball hitch mounted in the bed of a pickup instead of a fifth wheel hitch. Gooseneck trailers typically have about the same functionality and handling characteristics as a fifth wheel. I will address tent trailers and tear-drop trailers, special sub-groups of small bumper pull trailers in more detail in subsequent posts.

Towables versus motor homes. Towables keep the camping unit separate from the towing vehicle. This usually means a lower cost for the camping unit and often it can be towed by an existing vehicle, further reducing the cost of acquisition. It also means you have a vehicle available for use once you've unhitched the trailer and set up camp. This can be advantageous when you are going shopping or sightseeing. Some motor home owners tow a "dingy" -- a small car or truck -- behind their motor homes in order to have local transportation once camp is set up. I saw one extremist solution where a huge, bus conversion was towing a limo as its dingy!  One advantage of a motor home over a trailer is that your passengers have access to all the facilities of the motor home while on the road. With a trailer, you have to pull over somewhere and get out of your tow vehicle to make use of the facilities. Riding in a towed trailer is restricted or illegal in many states.  Towable RVs range from small, light weight tent trailers to humongous units with multiple axles and near residential living space.

Tent trailers are often a good entry point into the RV lifestyle. They are typically relatively inexpensive to purchase and to operate, yet provide many if not most of the conveniences of other types of recreational vehicles. If you expect to be camping in extreme weather conditions, a tent trailer does have many of the disadvantages of a tent such as susceptibility to high winds and minimal insulation against heat or cold. Because of their light weight they are often subject to movement that is disconcerting to some people. The movement may be due to external forces, such as wind, or internal forces, such as the routine movement of people within the unit. Stabilizing jacks can minimize movement. Tent trailers can be awkward for one person to set up by themselves, so, if you plan to use one alone, be sure you can set it up and take it down without help -- or have sufficient help available.  More about tent trailers in a subsequent post.

A step up from tent trailers are pop-up trailers. These are collapsible, hard-sided trailers. They are usually lighter in weight and lower in height (while being towed) than conventional travel trailers but avoid some of the pitfalls of tent trailers. For example, the hard sides are more resistant to wind, weather, and wear, and to punctures and tears that sometimes beset tent trailers. Collapsible trailers usually use crank-up techniques or even electric motors that can be easily handled by one person.  If you need a low profile trailer but don't like the flapping walls of tent trailers, a pop-up trailer might be the answer.  Tent trailers usually use pop-outs for the beds so they may have more usable floor space than pop-up trailers.

Traditional bumper-pull travel trailers offer near ready-to use convenience when you arrive at a campsite. All that is required is to block the wheels and level and stabilize the trailer -- and, connect to water and electricity if you are in a camp site with hookups. The convenience of simply entering the trailer, turning down the bed, and getting a good night's sleep without the hassle of extended set up procedures makes a traditional travel trailer an attractive choice for many campers. The amenities and conveniences will depend on the size and price of the unit. Most simple travel trailers will include sleeping, heating and cooking facilities. Self-contained units will include a fresh water tank, bathroom facilities, and holding tanks. Units with 120 volt generators may include air conditioning. Entertainment options may range from a simple am/fm radio and perhaps a cassette or CD player in smaller units to full-blown home theater systems in larger, more expensive trailers.

Fifth-wheel trailers. The major difference between bumper-pull and fifth wheel trailers is how the trailer is attached to the vehicle. Fifth wheel advocates claim enhanced stability when towing, but backing and parking a fifth wheel may require some extra training and practice. Fifth wheel advocates praise the maneuverability of their units once they get used to them. The layouts may be different also, since fifth wheels have sections with reduced headroom over the hitch (often used as a bedroom) while bumper pulls typically have full head room their full length. Amenities and conveniences of tow-behinds and fifth wheels are comparable among units of similar size and price. To make use of the raised space over the hitch, fifth wheel trailers usually have some inside stairs, which is something to consider if anyone who will be using it has physical limitations that would make climbing stairs uncomfortable.  Sometimes there is a second bedroom on the main level or sofas and/or dinettes that make into beds so using the upper level could be avoided.

Gooseneck trailers look and handle a lot like fifth wheel trailers, but they use a ball hitch mounted in the bed of the pickup instead of a fifth wheel hitch.

 Since not all trailers come equipped with on board generators, portable generators are a popular solution these days.   Modern portable generators are small, quiet, and fuel efficient, making them attractive to many campers  in small RVs and even tents these days.

There is no ideal RV for everyone. Everyone has different tastes and different needs and different budgets -- and they will vary at different times of our lives. So consider the choices and pick the RV that suits YOU NOW.

Take your pick!

Benefits of Different Types of RVs

A common benefit of having almost any RV is having a sturdy and convenient shelter when camping.   A tent can provide a surprising level of comfort and protection from the elements, but an RV is sturdier and most require little setup time.  Some tent trailers take a little while, but most travel trailers, campers, and motorhomes, only need to be leveled and stabilized once you arrive in camp. With most RVs you have more than basic shelter.  You also have cooking, sleeping, and sanitation facilities.  Fully decked out you'll have a furnace, hot water heater, air conditioning, shower, toilet, and a cozy and comfortable bed.  An awning will give you your own private patio area next to your RV.   The addition of optional TVs, VCRs, DVD players and satellite systems give residential quality entertainment systems.

Ready to go is one of the benefits of just about any RV.  You can usually keep your RV stocked and ready to hit the road.  You can store clothing, basic supplies and provisions, tools, and cooking utensils so you're ready to go anytime.  You might arrange your tent camping equipment so it is easy to load and go, but usually you can get away faster with a well-equipped and properly maintained RV. And you're less likely to leave something you need at home.  About all you need to add at the last minute will be perishable foods and maybe fresh snacks.  You might also need fresh fuel for your motorized toys.

Tent trailers are often a person's first RV.  They are light weight, easy to tow, and relatively inexpensive, yet get you up off the ground and provide many of the conveniences of home.  They are easy to store and can often be stored in your garage.   Entry level models may have only an ice box instead of a refrigerator and very limited fresh water capacity.   Upscale models often have all the features of a self contained RV, including hot water, shower, toilet, and holding tanks.   Most tent trailers include a furnace or heater of some kind.  They usually do not include air conditioning so they might not be as comfortable if you plan to do a lot of desert or other hot weather camping.  Some of the primary benefits of a tent trailer are low initial cost and light weight for easy, economical towing with a regular car.  You can often store them in a normal garage so you don't have to purchase RV storage.  So, what are the disadvantages of tent trailers?  Like a tent, they can be noisy in the wind and will loose heat quickly in cold weather.  Setup time is usually longer than solid sided RVs.  The tent fabric is subject to wear and fading and may have to be replaced from time to time.

Travel trailers offer more protection against wind and rain than tent trailers.   Small, entry level models may have limited facilities, but many are fully self contained and provide all the comforts of home.   Always check the loaded weight of your trailer to be sure you don't exceed the Combined Vehicle Weight Rating for your tow vehicle.  Travel trailers may require a larger car, an SUV, or pick up truck for towing because of the added weight.  Trailers are usually less expensive than motorhomes but can provide virtually the same level of comfort and convenience in camp.   If you already have a suitable tow vehicle, a trailer may be a good choice for you.  If, on the other hand, you'll be buying an additional vehicle to tow your trailer you'll want to weigh the advantages and disadvantages of the extra vehicle and trailer versus having a motorhome.  Having a trailer also means you can disconnect the trailer and take the tow vehicle out solo for shopping, sight-seeing, and other trips.  Travel trailers are pretty stable so long as you have an adequately sized vehicle to tow them.  If the vehicle is too small, the "tail will wag the dog" and the trailer may make the vehicle difficult or impossible to control.

Specialty trailers, like teardrops and toy haulers, cater to niche markets.  The teardrop trailer appeals to nostalgic campers or those who need a light weight, easy-to-tow trailer.  Toy haulers are ideal for OHV enthusiasts as they provide both comfortable living space and room to haul motorized toys and associated parts and equipment.

We have found motorhomes a good option for our family.  We like having all the facilities available on the road.   All but the driver can use the on board bathroom without the need to find a rest stop or service station -- a real boon when you're traveling with children.   Entertainment systems can stem the incessant chorus of "are we there yet?" that seems to be a significant part of the job description for young people when traveling.  Your co-pilot can grab you a cold or hot drink or a snack when you need it.  When you arrive in camp all you need to do is find a level parking spot, close the curtains, and hit the sack.  Because motorhomes combine both living space and a motor vehicle, they tend to be more expensive than trailers.   Because of their size and weight you won't get as good fuel economy as you might with a trailer, although towing a trailer significantly affects fuel economy no matter how efficient the tow vehicle is solo.  For added convenience and fuel economy on local trips, some motorhome owners tow a "dingy" vehicle.  Towing an additional vehicle will affect highway fuel economy but will make local trips easier and less costly.  Ironically,  Class C motorhomes often have more sleeping space than many larger Class A units.  Class C units are often good for families.  Large luxury Class A coaches have a tendency to cater to affluent retired couples. Like most generalities, these should not be taken as absolute rules.  Class B van conversions are good for single campers, couples, and small families and often have the advantage of doubling as a second car.  Just make sure whatever you choose fits you and your families' needs.  Motorhomes are about the most stable of any RVs in wind.  The heavy automotive style truck/bus chassis and low-mounted holding tanks give them a relatively low and stable center of gravity.  Truck campers, on the other hand, have a fairly high center of gravity because everything sits in or above the pickup bed.

Truck campers are a good option for anyone who already owns a pickup truck with enough capacity to handle the camper.   Campers can be unloaded between trips so the truck can be used for other purposes.  Of course that means you need extra time to load and unload the camper for each trip, but it might be worth it.   Make sure your truck has sufficient load carrying capacity and power to handle the extra weight of the camper.  Truck campers tend to be somewhat top heavy and easily affected by wind.

When cost is a significant factor ( and isn't always?), look for good used units.   RVs don't get used as often as most of us would like, so you can often get really good bargains on pre-owned units.  I have found other benefits to pre-owned RVs:  1) they have passed the stage of "infant mortality" where early problems with new units have already been fixed by the original owners under warranty and , 2) previous owners have often added accessories that make them more convenient or add functionality.   Such additions rarely add much to the book value (or price) but a lot to useability.

RV today!

Camping and Boating Trade Offs

There are many trade offs to take into account when considering a camping lifestyle.   One of the first decisions is whether you like any kind of camping.  Next is whether you want to tent camp or camp in some kind of RV.  While cost is often a major factor in deciding between tent camping and buying an RV, it certainly isn't the only factor.  Tent camping can be done in a wide variety of locations.  It also gives a more primitive, adventurous spirit to outings which can be very satisfying, even if not as comfortable as an RV.  RV camping provides better protection from the elements along with significant creature comforts that can rival residential environments.  RVs make a really good base camp for a lot of other activites such as riding OHVs, hiking, fishing, hunting, rock hounding and more.

If you choose tent camping, one of your biggest choices will be what kind of tent to buy.  If you have a large family you will need a large tent.  If, on the other hand you plan to do a lot of backpacking, you'll need a very light weight, compact tent.  I've used 10'x14' cabin tents for family camping and a tiny little back packing tent that is really little more than a sleeping bag cover for solo back packing.  Each one is equally enjoyable in its proper environment.

If you decide you'd like the additional creature comforts and security of camping in RV, you'll need to do some research to figure out what kind of RV will work best for you.  There are many options, ranging from relatively inexpensive tent trailers with minimal facilities to huge luxury RVs with amenities that rival high-end residential homes.  Budget may be a significant factor for most people, but intended use and desired lifestyle will also play an important role.  You will need to decide if you want a self-propelled RV (motorhome) or a towable (trailer).  Another option is  truck camper.  There are advantages and disadvantages to each type.  Trailers are usually less expensive, but you also have to consider the cost of a tow vehicle unless you already have a vehicle capable of towing your chosen trailer.  There are many trade offs in choosing between the various options within each category.  Motorhomes range from Class B van conversions that are essentially the same size as a regular full size van, to Class C's, built on a cutaway van or truck chassis, to large Class A units that resemble large buses and, in fact, are sometimes built on bus chassis.  Trailer options begin with small tent trailers and can range up large fifth wheels measuring 35' in length or more.  In between are a variety of "bumper pull", goose-neck, and fifth wheel trailers. Bumper pull trailers use a standard trailer hitch that is usually mounted below the bumper.  Goose-neck trailers have a trailer ball mounted in the middle of a pickup bed.  Fifth wheel trailers connect via a special hitch similar to those used by large semi-trailers, which is also mounted a pickup bed.  The towing characteristics of each type of hitch will be somewhat different so you'll want to research the handling and load capacities and, if possible, try out any options you want to consider BEFORE you buy.  Truck campers allow you to remove the camper from the truck when it is not in use and use the truck for other tasks.  Truck campers tend to be less spacious than motorhomes or trailers and are usually more top heavy.  If you live in a state where there is a lower speed limit for vehicles towing trailers (such as California), you may want to consider whether you can live with longer travel times.  The argument for differential speed limits is based on the assumption that large vehicle are safer at lower speeds and ignores the more pragmatic and scientifically proven "85 Percentile" approach, which recommends universal speed limits should be set to the speed 85% normally driven on a given stretch of road.  Consistent traffic speed has repeatedly been shown to be safer than situations involving "traffic sheer" (different speeds in different lanes, known to be one of the most dangerous practicies), yet many states continue to post differential speeds for trucks and vehicles pulling trailers, thereby creating traffic sheer.

Once you have decided on what type of RV you want, you're likely to face many more tradeoffs before you finally select a specific vehicle.  Some of the normal issues you will face will include new versus used (usually determined up front by budget), age or mileage versus luxury features (you may be able to get luxury features you want and stay within your budget by buying an older model), power versus fuel economy (if you need to tow a boat or OHV trailer  you'll want more power and will probably have to sacrifice fuel economy to get it).  Whether you opt for an older model to get more features or a newer one to minimize mechanical risk and potential maintenance cost, will depend on how badly you want the features and what resources you have (skill, tools, money) to handle additional maintenance.  Some other considerations may include intended use:  do you plan to stay mostly in campgrounds with full hookups or will you be doing a lot of "boondocking"?  Class A motorhomes generally have larger fresh water and waste water holding tanks than Class B or C units and allow you longer boondocking stays.  Class C motorhomes, oddly enough, often offer bunkhouse configurations that provide more beds and may be better suited for large or growing families.  Nearly all modern motorhomes are self-contained and, therefore, suitable for boodocking.

Where you are in your life may be a significant factor in making tradeoffs.   Having a young family will obviously swing things in favor of "bunkhouse" motorhomes with lots of sleeping capacity and room for growth.  And older couple may favor more conveniences and more luxury.  RV manufacturers know this and you'll find that those huge, high end, luxury coaches are often designed mostly for two people.  A young family may want to favor a late model low mileage unit.  An older couple may choose to spend the same amount of money to get an older coach with more amenities.  The longevity and resale value may be more important and of more use to a younger user while comfort and convenience may be more appealing to an older couple.

You may want to consider whether certain accessories or features are essential in your initial purchase,  or whether you can add them on later.  Some features, such as slide-outs, are not practical or cost-effective to add on to existing vehicles.  Things like hydraulic levelers are pretty costly and usually require expensive professional installation.  If you're a moderately good handyman and have the right tools and equipment, you may be able to install awnings yourself and anyone with basic mechanical skills can add wheel simulators to improve the appearance of a rig with standard steel wheels.  Likewise, you can probably add or replace a microwave oven or TV without too much expense or difficulty, but replacing a refrigerator is a much bigger job.

New versus used is often a legitimate question when buying camping equipment or RVs.   So-called "pre-owned" (used) items are less expensive to purchase than new ones, but sometimes repair or maintenance costs may favor buying new, especially if you're not a Do-It-Yourselfer.  If you decide to go with used items, be sure you are aware of any necessary repairs they may need before you buy.  Also consider whether you have the resources (parts, materials, skills, tools, time or money) to affect the repairs or the financial resources to hire someone else to do it.  Used tents, camping stoves, lanterns, and even sleeping bags are often a good bargain.  Some people have concerns about using personal items like sleeping bags but a trip to the dry cleaners should take care of that.  Check tents to be sure all the parts are there and that there are no major rips or tears.  Look out for leaking fuel tanks on stoves and gas lanterns.  They are not easy to repair and can be costly to replace.  You can usually save a LOT of money on used RVs, but shop around to get the best value.  Keep in mind the best value does not always mean the lowest price.  Consider age, mileage, condition, features, and how you plan to use the RV.  Buying a huge luxury motorhome won't be of much use if you plan to mostly visit Forest Service campgrounds that often have size limitations.  And  cute little Class B won't hold more than a couple of people (surprisingly, a lot of large luxury RVs are designed for only two people too).  Are you going to use your RV for a base camp for other outdoor activities?  If so, consider whether the CVWR (Combined Vehicle Weight Rating) is sufficient to accommodate your toys (boats, OHVs, etc).

Perhaps the biggest choice for boaters whether you want a power boat or not.  Power boats will come with most of the mechanical ramifications of any motorized recreational machine.   They give you relative freedom of movement regardless of wind or currents.   Alternatives include things like kayaks, canoes, paddle boards, rowboats, and sailboats.   What you choose will depend on personal preferences and how much effort you are willing to invest in using it.  Power boats require the least effort with sailboats next with human-powered craft  requiring the most effort to use.  Where you plan to use it will also affect which option is best for you.  Not all venues have winds that are suitable for sailing.  Some scenic rivers prohibit power boats.

You will encounter trade offs in choosing gear and equipment to support your camping and related activities.  Cost versus features will often be a factor.  Size and weight versus durability and convenience is also a frequent issue.  Availability of replacement parts may feature in consideration of vintage RVs and equipment.

As you go forth you will be looking at tradeoffs associated with just about every outing.  Where you go and for how long is a frequent factor in choosing a destination.  Do you have enough time to make the trip and enjoy it?  Would there be a better time to go, based on weather, accessibility, and your own personal or family schedule.  You will make tradeoffs regarding menu and supplies, even about clothing.

There are many trade offs to be considered for other activities to be paired with camping.  First, do you even want or need any additional activities?  Then do you prefer group activities with high social interactions or more private and primitive experiences?  Do you enjoy using motorized toys?  Do you already have friends with which you would like to share an activity they enjoy?  Your budget (both available time and money) may help you determine what activities are within your reach and whether you should pursue new or used equipment.

Let the trading begin!

Teardrop Trailers

Teardrop trailers are NOT travel trailers that cause a lot of grief or sadness. "Teardrop" refers to the shape of the trailer, not owner's reaction. No doubt many tears have been shed over 'lemons' and other bad purchases or even the loss of a favorite RV, but that is not what this post is about. It is about a very popular, light weight travel trailer design that has proven itself for more than 80 years. 

                                                        

I have made quick mention of "tear drop" trailers before. I've never personally owned one, but I had an aunt and uncle who traveled all over the western United States in one back in the 1950s. I envied them.  Whenever we traveled we camped in a tent or had to find motels.  Teardrop trailers are a kind of unique form of bumper pull travel trailer, unique enough to merit their own discussion. The "teardrop trailer" has been around since at least the 1930's and is a popular light weight camping trailer. It takes its name from its teardrop shape, with a relatively high rounded front tapering off to a pointed rear end. They are regaining popularity as gas prices continue to climb. Their light weight and streamline design make them economical to tow. Some people find the retro design appealing too. The main body of the trailer is primarily a sleeping area and is typically only about 4-5' high at most so there usually isn't room to stand up in them. The rear of the trailer opens up like a hatchback so that the door forms a sort of canopy over the "kitchen" or galley area built into the back. You can special order your new teardrop to have this kitchen area configured just about any way you would like them.  Basically, the rear kitchen is a glorified "chuck box". They typically include a small sink and a single burner propane or butane stove. They may or may not include an ice box so you might still need an ice chest.  The more clever designs have a special compartment in the back for the ice chest.  These units are especially good for towing behind smaller vehicles since they weigh under 1000 pounds, some as low as 750 pounds and have a tongue weight of only 75-85 pounds. With such light weight and good aerodynamics, they are easy to tow and have a minimal affect on fuel economy while providing very comfortable, weather-proof sleeping quarters and convenient but not weatherproof kitchen facilities. Their small size also makes them easy to store and one person can maneuver them easily into parking areas or even into your garage. A teardrop trailer is an economical alternative to tent camping. You gain the convenience of a sleeping area that is protected from elements and critters and maintain much of the feeling of "real" camping using the outdoor kitchen. The solid walls provide a lot more insulation than a tent to maintain a more comfortable and quieter sleeping environment. They don't usually have a furnace or heater so you might need a tent heater on particularly cold nights. These days you can get many accessories for your teardrop trailer, including special tents designed to attach to the side door of the trailer, adding a stand-up dressing room and additional living space. Throw in a porta-potty and you'll pretty much have all the conveniences of home.

Teardrop trailers come in a variety of sizes and configurations. They are probably best suited to single campers or couples. A small family might squeeze into one if you're OK all sleeping in one bed, but even tent trailers generally provide more room (and separate beds) for more people -- plus stand up headroom. I recently saw a unique teardrop trailer with a slideout that significantly increased the size of the sleeping area.

Teardrop trailers don't usually have heaters. Most people find that body heat alone is sufficient to keep the interior comfortable through the night. Each human generates about as much heat as a 100 watt incandescent light bulb.   In extra cold weather, put your Coleman lantern inside for a few minutes before bedtime and it will be toasty when you hit the sack (open a window a little so it doesn't use up all the oxygen and/or pollute the air). Other possibilities would include just about any tent heater. Just be sure to maintain adequate ventilation using any heater or lantern indoors or you'll not only sleep through the night, you'll sleep forever!

Even though the standup room in most teardrops is limited, you still have a more private and convenient dressing room than, say, a pup tent or a small dome tent. I have seen some models that pop up like a tent trailer so there is room to stand up, but most are limited to 4'-5' interior height.

Here is an interesting variation of a teardrop that does have stand up headroom: you might call it a teardrop tent trailer.  Not sure what they do for a galley on this variation, but it is certainly an innovative solution.

Here is an enhanced, modern version of a tent trailer that even has an innovative front slide out:  Enhanced Teardrop Trailer. 

Teardrop owners tend to be almost fanatical about their units, so take that into consideration when talking to owners or salesmen of teardrops. You might find a teardrop that meets your needs, so check them out.

Teardrop trailers are a popular design with do-it-yourselfers. You can see some photos of teardrop trailers here, where you an also purchase plans to build your very own.

Because many teardrop trailers were originally homemade or ordered with custom design features, you probably won't find a lot of consistency among used units.  If you find one you particularly like you should probably grab it up before someone else does.  The next one could have a very different configuration.  

The nostalgic design makes them ideal to tow behind classic or antique vehicles.

No tears with THESE teardrops!

A Trailer For Hauling Your Camping Gear

Do you need a trailer to haul your camping gear?  Well, maybe.  Depends on your camping style, how much gear you have, how many people are in your group, what kind of vehicle you have, where you are going. what kind of activities you will be involved in, and how long you are going for.  The larger your group, the more complex your activities, and the longer you plan to be gone, the more likely you will need room to haul more stuff.  You might also need extra supplies if your destination is very remote and you won't have reasonable access to additional supplies as needed.

If you normally go camping in a motorhome, camping trailer, or truck camper, you probably won't need a utility trailer to haul your camping gear.  You can usually stow everything you need in your rig.  But sometimes you may want to bring along more stuff than you have room for in your normal recreational vehicle.  Having more people than usual or going on a longer trip than usual typically requires bringing along more stuff.   In such cases or if you are a tent camper and don't have a large vehicle to transport your gear, you will probably want to consider buying or making a light-weight utility trailer to tote your stuff around.  Pickups, vans, and large SUVs might have enough capacity but ordinary passenger cars, especially the small, compact, fuel efficient ones we generally prefer for daily drivers, will probably need extra cargo carrying space.

Even if you are a tent camper you may or may not need a trailer to haul your camping gear.  If you drive a large SUV or a pickup truck you probably have all the room you need to transport your normal camping equipment.  Even a station wagon or a full-size sedan may be adequate.  However, in these days of steadily increasing fuel prices you may choose a smaller, more fuel-efficient vehicle for your daily driver.  Or if your family or regular camping group is large your gear might not fit in any vehicle, especially a smaller one.   If either is the case, you might need a small, light-weight trailer to transport your camping gear.  When I was a teen our family of 4 went camping in a '57 Hudson with sleeper seats and were quite comfortable for several days of travel and camping in and around Yellowstone Park and everything we needed fit comfortably in the trunk.  The same trip in a regular passenger car a year or so later required motel stops.

Some alternatives to a trailer might include a roof top carrier or hitch-mounted cargo rack or box.  If you have a vehicle with a roof rack you may be able to carry a lot of the bulky, lighter weight items like sleeping bags in a waterproof cargo bag secured to the roof rack. If you live in an area that gets little rain you might get way without covering your cargo, but whether you use a cargo carrier or a tarp it is still a good idea to cover the load to protect it from sunlight, wind, possible rain, and prying eyes.  Simply keeping things out of sight can provide a certain level of  "security by obscurity" and reduce thefts of opportunity.  Whenever you haul cargo outside your vehicle make sure it is securely anchored so it doesn't blow or bounce off during travel.  Avoid putting heavy items on roof racks.  Getting it up and down risks injury and having heavy loads up high can affect vehicle handling and could damage the roof.

A lightweight utility trailer isn't hard to come by.  Many home centers sell small trailers for home use and for transporting lawn mowers and other power yard equipment.  If you have a bent for do-it-yourself projects you can build your own trailer using trailer kits like those available at Harbor Freight.  They have kits for different size trailers.  A popular size is 48"x96", just right for a single sheet of 3/4" plywood to make the floor.  It is small enough and light enough to be pulled by a small vehicle yet large enough to carry almost all the camping gear you will need for the average family.  Flat bed trailers or utility trailers or even enclosed box trailers are all good possibilities.  What you choose will depend on your individual needs, budget, and availability.  Flat beds make it easy to load and unload wheeled toys.  Utility trailers help keep things secure in transit without having to tie them down.   You may be able to tarp both flat bed trailers and utility trailers to protect your gear against sun and rain.   Enclosed trailers provide the most security for your gear on the road and in camp and provide convenient extra protection against the weather.  You can often find small, inexpensive trailers for sale on craigslist.org.  I have used old tent trailers that were repurposed as motorcycle or utility trailers.  You might pick up an older tent trailer with a ruined tent pretty cheap (maybe even free!) and strip it down to make a utility trailer.

I have a camping trailer that started life as an Apache tent trailer.  Someone before me had completely gutted the little trailer to turn it into a utility trailer.  I actually got it for free on craigslist.  It needed a little work (including a LOT of cleaning and a new paint job to match our Jeep) and I upgraded from 10" wheels and tires to 12" for extra road clearance and an added safety margin.  One advantage to this particular trailer is that is has a clam-shell top that completely closes it during travel.  On one of our first trips we encountered very heavy rain.  So heavy there was about 2" of standing water on the freeway on a 6% grade!  Once out of the storm we pulled off the freeway and opened the clam-shell to access and mitigate the damage and were pleasantly surprised to find only 2 or 3 drops had gotten inside!  The clam-shell can even be locked for extra security.  It also gives us a convenience place to haul and store our camping equipment so it saves storage space in the garage and is always ready to go.

Packing your camping trailer may take some fore-thought and a little practice.    Basically you will want to load the heaviest components over the axle but you will need to maintain a certain amount of weight on the tongue to keep the connection secure and to avoid swaying.  Tongue weight for most small trailers should be in the range of 200-300 lbs but ultimately will depend on the overall trailer weight and how the load is distributed.   If there isn't enough tongue weight on the hitch (shoot for about 10% of the total loaded weight) the trailer may sway back and forth, kind of like the tail wagging the dog.  If there is too much weight on the tongue (more than about 15%) your vehicle may become less responsive, especially when turning and braking.  You may have to take your loaded trailer to a weigh station to find out how much it weighs.  You might be able to use a home bathroom scale to weigh the tongue, but use caution.  If it is too heavy for the scale you can damage the scale.  Trailer sway can be a serious problem.  My family and I have experienced at least two significant accidents due to excessive sway.  In one case the 28' toy hauler trailer  my son was pulling was too big and too heavy for the 1/2  ton pickup pulling it when it got caught in heavy crosswinds.  The other problem occurred when one of the bunk boards holding our sailboat broke, dumping the boat onto one of the fenders and crushing it down onto the tire so it created excessive drag on one side causing the trailer to sway.

Plastic tubs are a good way to pack and organize the things you put into your trailer.  Things like tents, sleeping bags, stoves, and camp chairs can usually be loaded in their own factory bags or even as is but cooking gear, provisions, linens, and clothing will be safer and easier to manage in plastic tubs.  I prefer translucent tubs so I can sort of see what is inside.  If you use opaque tubs you might want to label each one with what is inside to make it faster and easier to locate stuff in camp.

If you store your camping gear at home in your camping trailer be sure you remove perishable items between trips.  Putting perishables in a separate plastic tub makes this a lot easier.  Also make sure all your equipment is cleaned up before putting it away.  Left over food scraps will attract all kinds of pests, from microbes to raccoons and bears.  Microbes will turn scraps into nasty rotten messes and larger pests can do considerable damage to your gear and maybe even your trailer.  Bears have even been know to break into locked cars in search of food.  Animals in search of food may not be able to smell the difference between a few leftover crumbs and a whole sandwich, so cleaning everything up is critical!

Camping trailers can sometimes find additional uses in camp.  Once the gear has been unloaded you might put up a pipe frame to support a tarp over the top of an open trailer to provide a nice kind of pavilion to keep you out of the sun and rain and up off wet ground.  Some people even add sides or set up a free-standing tent in the trailer and use it as an off-the-ground shelter.   Not quite as complete as a tent trailer, but a step above sleeping on the ground.  You probably should not plan to cook in it, just as you normally would not cook in your tent, but it can make a safe and comfortable place to get out of the weather and for sleeping and to protect your personal gear.  Sometimes even an empty utility trailer makes a good playpen for younger children you might want to keep up off the ground and away from snakes and insects on the ground in many remote campgrounds.  You can install an awning on a box trailer to provide patio shade and protection from light rain in camp.  For an economy awning you might make your own using an inexpensive tarp and arms made from PVC pipe.  Similar canopies can be installed over the bed of open trailers.

If you use an open utility trailer you will want to tarp it to protect your gear against rain.  Having it tarped also provides a little bit of "security by obscurity" by keep your desirable items out of sight, reducing the chance of some passerby helping themselves to your property and helps minimize getting dust and dirt in your gear.  If you haven a enclosed trailer (like our little Apache trailer or a box trailer) you might even use the trailer for permanent storage at home.  Not only does that save space in your garage, shed, or basement, it keeps everything all packed and ready for your next trip.  Be sure you have a tongue lock or other security so it can't be easily stolen!

Some accessories you might want to add to your camping trailer might include a portable toilet (Portpotti) and a chuck box.  Portable toilets will give you comfortable sanitation where ever you go and a chuck box makes a good portable kitchen for use in camp.  A camping trailer may also give you room to carry extra tools you might need in camp or on the road.   I have a large, heavy-duty vinyl bag I use to carry firewood.  Firewood can also be carried in a box or even laid loose where ever there is extra room between items in your trailer, but having it in its own container keeps things cleaner and makes the wood easier to collect for your campfire.  Having a trailer may give you room to carry cots to make sleeping more comfortable.

Loading your trailer.  I talked a little bit a few paragraphs above about using plastic tubs to load and organize your camping trailer.  The other thing you will want to do is put the things you need to get to first when you get to camp where they are easily accessible.  Normally you will probably want get out your tent and camp chairs first, perhaps along with a canopy or dining fly for shade.  Sleeping bags should go into the tent once it is set up.  All your kitchen gear and supplies should be easy to get to because you may very well be more than ready for a good meal after your travels.  Lanterns and flashlights should be close at hand in case you arrive at your destination after dark.  Heavy tools usually find a good home somewhere near the bottom of things and often kind of out of the way since you probably won't be using them right away or often.   While placement for convenience is important, it should never override the need to load the trailer for correct balance and a proper tongue weight.d  Also make sure things are loaded so any shift during travel won't damage items or the trailer.

Used trailers can be a good option.  Few of us get to go camping as often as we would like and even personal utility trailers probably get little use so used trailers and likely to still have plenty of miles left in them.  Check out your local craigslist to look for bargains in your area.  Things to check will be tires, brakes (if so equipped), hitch, lights, safety chains, springs, an door/tailgate latches.  Tires will often look very good but may have ''aged out'', so check the date of manufacture.  Tires typically have a maximum usable life of around 6-10 years, depending on how they have been stored or protected.  If you are looking at box trailers, also look for any signs of leakage.  Check to make sure the floor is solid.  Used trailers might have been commercially made or homemade.  Homemade trailers can be very good trailers but you may want to pay special attention to how they are constructed.  A popular option for homemade utility trailers is to mount an old pick up bed on an axle.  The axle may be a trailer axle or an old car axle.  Old car axles are very sturdy but also add a lot of weight.  Commercial axles come in different weight ratings so make sure the axle is strong enough to handle the weight of your trailer and anything you plan to haul in it.  Most single axles are rated at 3500 lbs but you can find heavier duty models.  My custom made enclosed motorcycle trailer is on a single axle that has a 5500 lb rating.  You want to be sure whatever you buy will have the capacity you need (cubic feet of storage and weight rating) to handle whatever you need it to carry.  In most cases, almost any trailer is going to have more than enough capacity to haul all the camping equipment you need for the average family.  If you plan to haul ATVs or any other large, heavy pieces of equipment or have an unusually large family or regular camping group, you may need a larger trailer.  I once picked up an old 19'construction office trailer to haul camping equipment and dirt bikes.  It was big, ugly and heavy but it was cheap and it did the job.

Make sure the vehicle you use to tow your trailer is properly configured with a correct hitch for the trailer weight, has adequate power, tires, and suspension, and has appropriate connections for trailer lights and safety chains.  Trailer brakes may be required on heavier trailers, along with brake controllers on the tow vehicle.  Surge brakes are an alternative that provides self-contained brakes on moderate sized trailers.  Surge brakes use a special, articulated hitch on the tongue that pushes a rod into a brake master cylinder to apply the brakes on the trailer whenever the trailer pushes against the hitch as the tow vehicle slows or stops.

Small, light-weight trailers may or may not have to be licensed.  Some states required ALL trailers to be licensed, but some only require licenses on trailers over a certain loaded weight.  An unlicensed trailer may save you annual registration fees, but having it licensed may guard against theft or make it easier to identify and reclaim your trailer if it is stolen.  Normally if you are towing an unlicensed trailer with a licensed vehicle from the state of residence where the trailer license is not required, you will not need to have a license even a state where residents are required to license all trailers.  However, having the license might prevent you from getting pulled over from time to time when driving out of your state since local law enforcement might not know your home state regulations.  You may be able to defend against a traffic ticket but avoiding the potential problems in the first place might well be worth the modest cost of registering the trailer, even it isn't required in your home state.

Haul away!

Hauling Your Camping Gear

Many times, hauling your camping gear simply means loading it into the trunk of your car, the back of your SUV or pickup, or on the roof rack and hitting the road.  But what do you do when your stuff no longer fits in the trunk or other available space?  Whether it is because your family is growing, you've invited more people to join you, or because you've just accumulated more or larger camping gear, the time will come when you run out of room.  In the old days when cars had running boards, extra cargo could be tied down on them. But since running boards disappeared back in the 1930s options for carrying excess cargo have been limited.  If you have a trailer hitch, you may be able to get a rack or an enclosed "trunk" that fits in the hitch like a wheel-less trailer.  Another low-cost and low-impact option is to purchase a car-top carrier.   This may take the form of a bag that attaches to an existing roof rack on an SUV or a unit that mounts on the drip rails of a standard sedan. In either case you'll likely have a zippered vinyl container that is suitable for carrying tents and sleeping bags and some other gear.   Both to reduce the stress on your back getting gear up and down and to minimize the load on the roof, try to limit the weight of items you put up there.   Too much weight can affect handling and piling things high will create drag that affects fuel economy, even if it isn't heavy enough to cave in the roof.   I prefer to load soft, fairly light items, like sleeping bags and put the hard, heavy stuff (like camp stoves) in a lower, more secure cargo area.   Some modern cars don't have drip rails so there isn't a good place to attach a roof carrier without drilling holes in the roof, which, of course, isn't a good idea. Some may sit on suction cups, secured with straps into the top of the door openings. Keep in mind any strap that interferes with the weather stripping will cause wind noise and will very likely leak when it rains.  Many times the weather stripping will be permanently damaged so the door whistles and leaks even after the strap has been removed.   Try to make sure all the straps lie flat to minimize the impact on weather stripping.   If you plan to use a roof top carrier often it might be worth adding a roof rack if you don't already have one.  You usually don't see them on sedans, but there is no reason they couldn't be added.  If you're a pretty ambitious do-it-yourselfer you might pick up a roof rack from an old station wagon at your local junk yard and install it yourself.  It will require removing the headliner and that can be a pain and you might want to look for ways to reinforce the roof where you mount the rack to prevent damage.  Luggage racks can sometimes be added to the deck lid but that makes opening the trunk difficult when they are loaded.  If a roof top carrier doesn't appeal to you or won't work on your vehicle, you might consider getting a small trailer.  Most cars, even sub-compacts, can have a trailer hitch added.  Just be sure you don't exceed the Combined Vehicle Weight Rating CVWR) loading your trailer.  An overloaded trailer or exceeding the CVWR is recipe for disaster!

Utility trailers are a convenient option for transporting camping gear.  If you don't already have a trailer hitch on your vehicle, you'll have to add one, together with appropriate connections for stop, turn, and tail lights.  In some states, light utility trailers don't even require license or registration.  Small trailers like this can be towed by just about any motor vehicle, including compact cars and even motorcycles!  Light utility trailers usually don't have electric brake systems.  If you choose a larger trailer with electric brakes, you'll need a brake controller on your vehicle.  Some small trailers come equipped with a "surge brake".   This is self-contained.  The hitch on the trailer is designed to flex and activate a hydraulic braking system on the trailer when the tow vehicle slows down.  Light weight trailers often don't have any brakes.  While simple flat-bed trailers like those used to haul riding lawnmowers will do the job, you'll probably be happier with a box style trailer with enclosed sides.  It will look kind of like a pick up bed.  You can cover it with a tarp to keep the sun and rain off your gear and keep things from blowing out.  Fully enclosed box trailers provide extra protection for your gear against weather and extra security, but they are usually a little more expensive and a little heavier to tow.  Fully enclosed trailers, or a well-tarped utility trailer, can provide extra protection against unusually bad weather in camp.  For that reason I would probably buy a trailer that is at least long enough to lay down in, unless I really needed something very small and very light to tow behind a small car or a motorcycle.  With a little creativity you can make a pipe frame to support a tarp over your utility trailer to create a protected patio space in camp.  An enclosed utility trailer just might become your first step toward an RV and can provide emergency shelter if the weather turns bad.  I like to have an enclosed trailer when I have work on my dirt bikes in bad weather.  It also provides a secure place for tools, spare parts, and riding gear.  A couple of people could sleep on the floor out of of the weather in an emergency.  I have seen old tent trailers stripped down to make light weight utility trailers that are ideal from hauling tent camping equipment.  I obtained on old Apache tent trailer that includes a clam-shell lid that does a surprisingly good job of protecting the contents from the elements.  All the original amenities were long gone but it makes a great trailer for hauling our camping gear.

Trailers can provide other functions besides simply hauling your gear to the campsite.  I've seen small trailers with removable tops that are equipped with folding legs to serve as tables in camp.  If your trailer is approximately the size of any pick up bed you might put a truck tent in the trailer to get you up off the ground.  You might build a "chuck box" to fit in the back of your utility trailer (or your trunk or the back of your SUV or pickup) similar to the ones used in chuck wagons on cattle drives in the Old West, giving you a ready-made kitchen when you get to camp.  It should have cupboards and bins to hold pots and pants, dishes, utensils, and provisions.   Every door and drawer should have a positive latch so doesn't come open in transit.  With a little clever engineering you could add a sink with running water, adding further convenience to your camping experience.  A shepherd's crook style lantern holder might be fitted to keep your camp lighting stable and up out of the way.  If you use a propane lantern, you could power it from a large propane tank on or in the trailer so you don't have to bother with changing those little 1 pound cylinders every few hours.  A trailer might serve as part of the support system for your tent, adding strength and stability over standard and sometimes flimsy tent poles.  An enclosed trailer could be fitted with an RV awning or just a tarp and appropriate supports for convenient shade and protection from light rain.  I've seen simple PVC pipe frames used on flat-bed utility trailers to turn the trailer into a portable pavilion, providing much needed shade during desert camping.

You can use a trailer as a box to put your stuff in or customize it to create specialized compartments to secure items so you can find them easily and they don't get damaged in transit.  Just adding hooks or eyes where you can attach bungee cords to strap things down can make a lot of difference in organization and in preventing stuff from shifting during your travels.  A customized trailer might even include a chuck box (like they used in old-time chuck wagons) as the foundation for your camp kitchen.  Here is one source for building your own:  Chuck Box Plans  A chuck box can also be useful in a pickup bed, SUV, station wagon, or even the trunk of your car -- if you design it properly to fit the available space.

We picked up a small trailer to haul tent camping gear.   It had begun life as an Apache tent camping trailer and made an exceptionally good trailer for hauling camping gear.  All the internal features had been removed making it a simple utility trailer.  The original aluminum "clamshell" lid was still fully functional and kept out all but a few drops of rain when we were caught in an unexpected deluge, even with some damaged seals.  A small, lightweight trailer is a handy way to organize and even store your camping equipment if you have a place to park it.  You can keep it stocked with non-perishable items to make spontaneous outings more convenient.  In some states lightweight trailers like our Apache don't even have to be licensed.  I have found it hard to resist the temptation to restore more of the Apache's original camping features.  I have been experimenting with ways to make use of the trailer in camp, including rigging PVC hoops to support tarp to create protected living space inside but haven't yet gotten close to its full potential or even its original purpose.  Still we have found it VERY useful for tent camping.  Our converted Apache has a clam shell lid that does a surprisingly good job of protecting the contents.  We encountered an unexpected deluge during the first outing we took ours on and escaped with only a few drops inside.  The rain was so heavy there was 1 1/2" of water on the freeway even though we were on a fairly steep hill!   That same rain managed to fill the spare tire well in our supposedly well-sealed SUV!

It is likely you'll begin to find new uses for your trailer each time you take it out.   A trailer can help support a canopy or awning to get you some shade and you might even use the bed of the trailer as a sitting or play area to keep you and the kids up out of the dirt.  But be warned: as you start finding more innovative ways to use your trailer, you'll probably start gravitating toward upgrading to a trailer with even more amenities, like a quality tent trailer or pop-up trailer or perhaps even a camping trailer or a toy hauler.

Sometimes, if you have a hitch receiver on your vehicle, you can use a cargo rack or cargo box that attaches to the hitch receiver.   This may be a viable solution of you only need a small amount of additional carrying capacity and don't want to tow a trailer.  Dragging around a trailer often impacts maneuverability and, in some states like California, subjects you to lower speed limits.  Which is one of my pet peeves.  Traffic shear, the difference between speeds in adjacent lanes of traffic, is well known as a dangerous condition that contributes to accidents.  I find it appalling and irresponsible that governments choose to mandate traffic shear by setting different speeds for different vehicles on the same highway.  At one time a lower speed for over the road trucks and trailers might have made sense, but with modern suspension and braking systems, those restrictions are outdated.  While there was time when the brakes on trucks weren't adequate, a typical modern 18-wheeler has a maximum gross weight of around 80,000 lbs and is equipped with brakes designed to handle 100,000 lbs or more.

Before you figure out how you're going to haul your gear, you need to figure out what you need and how you're going to organize it.  What you have and how you put it all together will help you determine how much room you need to carry it.  Or, conversely, how much room you have may dictate how much stuff you can bring along.   What you need will be determined by where you're going, for how long, and how many people will be in your group.   You will probably need tents and sleeping bags for everyone plus kitchen supplies (pots, pans, dishes, utensils, and cleaning supplies). Unless you can rely on campfire cooking you'll need a camp stove.  Everything should be neatly packaged it either its own stuff sacks (like tents and sleeping bags) or in plastic bins (kitchen stuff, toiletries, clothing, extra bedding).  You often have a kind of "chicken and the egg" problem in choosing bins or tubs for storage.  The size of the bin must be at least big enough to accommodate the largest item you need to put in it, but the size of your bins might also be limited by where you can put it in/on your vehicle.  So, the space you need depends on the amount of stuff you bring and the size of the bins, but how much stuff you bring and the size of your bins may be limited by the space you have.  When space is of concern, and it usually is, take advantage of tools and equipment with multiple functions to reduce how much stuff you have to bring.  Sometimes you need to take advantage of every bit of available space.   You can do things like put small items like spice containers in pots and pans and pad them with dish towels, dish rags, and pot holders.  Mess kits designed for camping usually have pots and pans that nest inside each other, greatly reducing the amount of space needed.  Many times you'll find it more convenient to use moderate sized bags or bins that are easier to load and fit in smaller spaces instead of trying to pile everything into one container.

One word of caution:  don't try to haul too much!  As you create a convenient way to haul your camping gear, there may be a tendency to pack way too much stuff.  Having a place to put it lends itself to the "if you think you might someday need it, bring it along" criteria for choosing what goes in.  While that sometimes works to your advantage, until "someday" comes, you'll be carrying extra weight that will reduce fuel economy and most likely make accessing what you regularly use more tedious and difficult.  The best approach to packing is to carefully select what you use regularly and organize things efficiently so you can get to everything you need when you need it.  Then, if you have room left over without interfering with access to regularly used items, you might carefully and thoughtfully add a few items that might add convenience or functionality to your camping.

As in most camping situations, efficiency and convenience are key bywords.   Careful selection and organization of equipment and supplies together with a convenient way to transport them will ensure a pleasant and enjoyable outing.  You'll want a system that make is easy to load, locate, store, use, and load your equipment and supplies.

Haul away!