Refinishing Formica RV, Camper, and Boat Tables and Countertops

Many RVs, especially older ones, have Formica tables and countertops.  While there is some appeal to upgrading to more modern and luxurious materials, such as granite or composite solid surface, these are usually cost prohibitive for the average RVer.   Exotic materials like granite or even ceramic tile may also add a lot of unwanted and unnecessary weight.  The added cost will almost never increase the trade-in or resale value.  If you plan to keep your RV a long time the pleasure you get from using them might be worth the investment, but you might also enjoy less expensive alternatives too.

If you have faded Formica, you may have gotten discouraged looking for solutions to restore the color and shine on the Internet.  Mostly what I found in my initial search was that it could not be restored, but had to be sanded and painted or the faded Formica ripped off and replaced.  Some folks recommended various waxes and furniture polishes, but in my own attempts, none of them worked.  A good aerosol furniture polish made it look good while it was wet, which was encouraging, but as soon as it dried (in minutes)  it was back to its old dull, faded color.  Not an acceptable solution.

Then my wife suggested trying the SC-1 detail spray we use on our dirt bikes.  And wa-la! Instant success!  We had a badly faded walnut grain Formica table in our nearly 50 year old sailboat.  I thought I was going to have to paint it or get a new one.  But the SC-1 brought it back to like new condition with just a single application!  So far it has lasted 5 years and still looks good!

A second trick for restoring old table tops is to replace missing or damaged edge trim.  It is easier than you might think.  The edge trim was long gone from our boat table, exposing the rough edge of the plywood it was made of.  I bought some iron-on walnut edge tape at my local home center, sanded the old edge, and ironed on the tape,  trimmed it with a razor knife, then sealed it with a good clear coat and now instead of ugly old exposed plywood the edge is a nicely finished walnut that matches the restored Formica table top.  You can also get iron on edge tape in the form of white Melmac for edging shelves.  I didn't want to take any chances ruining my wife's good iron so I picked up a used one at a thrift store for a couple of bucks.  You can probably get away with using your regular household iron if you are careful with it.  Use a thin cloth like a dish towel between the iron and the tape.

Of course, if you want or need to change the color of a table or countertop or if the surface has been physically damaged by scraping or badly stained beyond redemption, you can still paint.  Sand the old surface to remove any contaminants and smooth out imperfections, fill any holes, then clean it with rubbing alcohol or acetone, the paint according to the paint manufacturer's instructions.  A gloss paint will be shinier and easier to clean but a semi-gloss will hide imperfections better and still look good.  Satin or matt finishes should be avoided as they will be more susceptible to dirt and stains and harder to clean.

Replacing Formica provides a new countertop that should last many years.  It usually requires removing the old Formica, properly preparing the surface, and gluing on new formica.  Getting really tight seams and corners requires a bit of practice and expertise so you might want to have this done by a professional for best results.  Sometimes you can apply new Formica over old but it is more common to remove the old, worn out material.  For a more temporary solution you might get away with installing self-adhesive vinyl tile over the old Formica.  The vinyl tiles are fairly easy to cut to fit and the self-adhesive style avoids the tedious task of applying adhesive.  You might even get some short-term satisfaction covering old, ugly Formica with Contact paper but it probably won't be very durable or last very long.

Another option for RV tables is to simply replace them.  Most of them are removable and can be easily replaced by a new table, available at most RV stores.  Or you could custom design and make your own if you have the DIY skills and tools to do so.  Butcher block cutting boards can sometimes be found in a size to match smaller tables, like the ones in front of an RV sofa.  Some tables  have interesting or even useful designs like road maps.  Replacement tables can be had for $30-$100 and you can even order them custom made to your specifications.  Custom made tables can run into the hundreds of dollars, depending on size, material, and features you specify.  Brand new, ready made tables can be purchased at RV stores, usually for less than $50.  I have always admired ones that had a good U.S. map image on them.

There is no need to live with ugly tables or countertops.  With a little creative effort they can be restored to give new life to your RV, camper, or boat.

Happy restoring!

Some Cool Alternate Hot Weather Activities

When the hot summer weather arrives, camping and dirt biking in dry, desert or even mountain environments gets to be a little more than uncomfortable.   During the hot summer months in southern California we sometimes opted to drive a little further than our usual Mojave Desert haunts to more mountainous regions where it was a little cooler.  However, for REAL relief from summer heat, you might want to consider water based activities like swimming, fishing, and boating.

For desert camping in the summer we often brought along a kiddie pool and a 55 gallon drum of water.   Obviously you won't be swimming a plastic pool less than a foot deep, but it does let you get wet enough to cool of on hot days.  At first we took a lot of hazing from bring it along but eventually it was really a lot of fun to see big, burly bikers cooling off in our little pool.  The only downside I recall was that it seemed to attract every sweat bee within miles!

Water activities usually provide opportunities for cooler recreation -- swimming, boating, or just lying around the beach (and taking advantage of the water to cool off now and then).  For that reason, and because I've always liked sailing, we have recently acquired a 24' Venture sailboat, complete with outboard motor for windless days and a trailer to get it to and from the lake.  It is small enough to trailer and for two of us to comfortably sail but has a large enough cabin to provide protection from sudden squalls and room to stay overnight in a remote cove.

Personal cooling devices can provide an amazing degree of comfort on hot days.  You can buy little battery powered portable fans to create a little personal breeze, some even come with water bottles attached so you can add a cooling mist.  For easy , inexpensive, and convenient personal cooling, we use simply spray bottles.  Spritz every now and then can be very refreshing.  We picked up our bottles at our local Dollar Tree.  That's got to be about the cheapest air conditioning you'll ever find!

Interestingly enough, nights in the desert can be surprisingly cool in spite of horrific daytime heat.  I've seen night time temps in the 40s after hitting over 100 in the afternoon.  I have also seen high temps hang on all through the night, leaving it way to hot to sleep without some kind of cooling system so you need to be prepared to deal with both scenarios.

Yes, I know, it is said that a boat is merely "a hole in the water into which you throw money".   But, like any other recreational pursuit, it will be what you make of it.  Just like RVs and OHVs, you can spend a lot of money on boats and related equipment and accessories, but you don't have to.  For example, we got our 24' Venture for free! There is even a web site that specializes in free or low cost boats:  http://www.free-boat.com/.  I was surprised at the number and variety of boats I saw there.  I have also seen inexpensive boats on ebay.  Some are offered by an organization that solicits donations and then sells them to fund their charitable operations.  I recently saw 25' sailboat in seaworthy condition go for $611 on ebay!  But, if you find a good deal, be aware there will be title and registration fees to be paid and, if the boat is in a marina, you may have to have proof of insurance and have to pay moorage fees.  If it comes with at trailer there will be DMV fees for the trailer.  If it doesn't come with a trailer you may have to pay to have it transported from where it is to your home or the port where you will moor it.  So, even a free boat will not be entirely with some up front costs.  And then there are the costs of maintenance and for repair, renovation, and/or restoration, if you choose to go that route. 

In some ways, our sailboat is like a floating RV and many of the lessons learned while RVing can be directly applied to "living" on a sailboat, for example, limited and scale down resources, and water and power conservation.  However, there are unique safety and operating procedures we all need to become familiar with before be embark on any maritime activities.  You can often get started with a free online instruction, then augment it with hands on training classes or guidance from experienced sailors.

Unlike RVs, which usually have standup headroom in even the smallest campers and tent trailers,  the cabins on many boats may be considerably shorter, except in larger yachts.  You can stand up somewhat bent over enough to move around inside the cabin of our little 24' sailboat and it isn't too uncomfortable to cook on the camp stove inside and very comfortable to eat at the dinette or sleep in the berths, but we always have to walk bent over and be sure to duck our heads unless the overhead companionway slide is open!  Sleeping in the v-berth (in the bow of the boat) has the headroom limitations of a truck camper with the added narrowing at the bow that pushes our feet together.  Some boats have a "pop top" that is mostly used when at anchor to give stand up headroom in the cabin. 

Our sailboat is a 1970 MacGregor Venture 24.  It is structurally sound but shows some signs of nearly 5 decades in the sun and water.  The gel coat on the deck is crazed and will need to be sanded and painted.  The once lovely teak trim had weathered to a dull uniform grey.  The nice walnut grained Formica table in the cabin was faded until near the center edge it was about the color of hot chocolate powder and the edging was gone, exposing raw, rough plywood.  A few feet of iron-on walnut edging tape painted with clear coat quickly solved the edging problem.  I was pleasantly surprised at how easy and effective the iron-on tape was.  As for the Formica, my attempt to find a suitable solution on the Internet resulted in a few, ineffective suggestions:  furniture polish or wax.  I tried a variety of products and while some made it look nice while it was still wet, it returned to its dull, dingy color when it tried.  Then my wife suggested using the same SC-1 Clear Coat detailing spray I use on my dirt bikes and in just minutes, we had a table that looked like new!  You can usually buy SC-1 at your local off road bike shop but if they don't have it they can probably order it.  It is made by Maxima, who produces a number of products most bike shops regularly carry.    SC-1's tag line on the can reads "New bike in a can" and you will be surprised how well it works to improve appearance.   It has been fun to find cross-over skills between our RV/OHV lifestyle and our new maritime addition.

As you might imagine, our nearly 50-year old sailboat needed some TLC, both the make her look better and to prevent further deterioration.  The paint inside the cabin was chalky and peeling.  It took some scraping and sanding to get rid of the damage.  A coat of Kilz is then a good idea as a primer and to reduce the possibility of mildew.  Marine grade paints can be quite expensive.  However, the small area involved may help keep the cost down and they may provide longer life than house paints.  I've heard of people using ordinary interior house paint inside their boats, but I would prefer to use an exterior acrylic latex or at least a paint rated for kitchens and bathrooms since the inside of a boat will by its nature be exposed to a lot of humidity.  We used exterior acrylic latex on our Venture with very good results.  We're now going on four years since refurbishing and the paint is still holding up very well.  Gloss paints are easier to clean but any defects will also show up more prominently.  Flat paint hides defects but can be harder to clean.  We went with a Satin fininsh that is somewhere in between and it has worked very well.  It looks good, resists dirt, and is pretty easy to clean.

Outside, the teak trim was barely recognizable as it had weathered to a dull, uniform grey color.  I was delighted to find it can be cleaned with oxaclic acid to bleach out they grey, then a coating or two of teak oil to restore the luster and depth of the color gets it ready for a suitable clear coat like polyurethane to protect it from the element and give it a deep, rich shine that both looks good and is comfortable to touch -- especially nice for hand rails.

Most boats, even sailboats, will have some 12-volt wiring for lights.  Lights may include convenience lights in the cabin and cockpit and required navigational lights for night time cruising. Wiring on a boat may not appear too different from wiring on an automobile or an RV, although some larger boats may have 24 or even 48 volt systems instead of 12 volt systems.   However, be aware that marine wire is different than automotive wire.  The same gauge wire will be made up of many more smaller diameter strands and each strand is tinned to prevent corrosion.  Yes, it will be a lot more expensive than ordinary primary wire for automotive or RV use, but it is necessary to ensure long life and good, safe connections in the marine environment.   You don't want your navigation lights to fail due to corroded connections while you're out on the water at night and even losing cabin lighting could be more than just inconvenient.  I found some cabin lights in our Venture had been wired using ordinary 2-conductor zip wire.  I'm sure it was cheap and convenient for whoever did it, but now all the connections are a badly corroded to a dull green and I had to replace the wiring to ensure safety, reliability, and performance.  For good measure I replaced all the old incandescent lights with LEDs, both interior lights and navigation lights.

If you decide to explore boating opportunities to augment your regular camping and OHV outings, be sure to get proper training on how to operate your boat or personal watercraft.  Also make sure you wear proper safety gear.  Personal Flotation Devices (i.e., life vests) are required for every person on a boat or personal watercraft and larger boats (over 16') must have at least one throwable flotation device.  This could be a life saver ring or simply an appropriately configured cockpit cushion.  You will also have to carry appropriate signalling devices (flags, lights, flares, horns, whistles, "day shapes").

There are also signals you need to be aware of to indicate to other boaters your intentions and for them to indicate theirs to you.  Boat horns have much more specific meanings than car horns.  When approaching another boat, a short single toot of your horn indicates you want to pass them on your port (left) side.  Two short toots means passing on the starboard side.  A hint for remembering which is which:  port has one syllable and one toot, starboard has two syllables and two toots.  Three toots mean backing up.  Five toots mean danger!  Or that you don't understand or disagree with the other boat's intentions.  For example, if they indicate passing you on the port side and there is a swimmer or an obstacle there they can't see, you would respond with five toots of your horn.  In poor visibility (e.g., fog) use one long blast when coming around a blind corner if you're in a power boat or one long and two short blasts for a sail boat, repeated about every two minutes.  You need to know these signals so you can recognize them when you hear them and be able to use them when necessary.  Short blasts or toots are about 1 second in duration.  Long blasts are about 4-6 seconds in duration.

Being near or out on the water means you are going to be exposed to a lot of sunlight and will need to pay attention to proper UV protection.  The sunlight reflecting off the water can burn as quickly and as badly as direct sunlight from above.   Sometimes you won't notice you're burning because of the cooling affect of the breeze and/or spray, but don't let that fool you.  Hats, sunglasses, and sunscreen are far more than fashion accessories when boating:  they are a necessity.

Personal watercraft, such as jet skies and SkiDoos, have a particular appeal to folks who usually ride dirt bikes or snowmobiles.  In fact, jet skis are sometimes called 'wet bikes' and are ridden much like a motorcycle.  SkiDoos are a lot like snowmobiles for the water.   However, just because the conformation and controls are familiar doesn't mean you don't need to take time learn how to ride them!  Taking a little time to get familiar with and learn proper use of any kind of motorized recreational equipment is essential and will pay back dividends in safety and fun for years to come.

Canoes and kayaks are popular vessels for personal use and use by small groups.  Since they have no motors or sails, there is a lot less that could go wrong and they require less maintenance.  They are economical to use, being powered either by hand or water currents, and are usually small enough and light enough to be easily transported from your home to various venues -- or around obstacles you might encounter on a river (like dams and falls).  About the only downside to these craft are that they ride very low in the water, are somewhat unstable and can be easily capsized if you aren't careful.  There are very few Boy Scouts who haven't gotten dunked in a canoe at summer camp!

Sailboats have a kind of nostalgic aura and there is a certain feeling of accomplishment and connection with the sea (or lake) that comes with operating them.  They may be as simple as a sabot (about 8' long with a single sail) or as complex as the Black Pearl, Captain Jack Sparrow's pirate ship in Pirates of the Carribean.  Most popular are boats in the 20-30 foot range, with a single mast with two sails (known as sloops) and with a small cabin that provides basic creature comforts out on the water and in port.  These boats are often called "daysailers" but can often accomodate overnight stays as well.

Power or motor boats appeal to a lot of people.  The controls for a power boat are similar to those in a car, except that there is no brake!  To stop a power boat you have to reverse the rotation of the propeller.  They are mostly steered using a wheel like a car although some with outboard motors have a tiller (handle) connected to the motor.  They come in many sizes and shapes from sleek, high-powered racing boats and water-ski boats, to huge yachts that are like floating palaces.  A popular mid-sized boat is a cabin cruiser.  These luxurious vessels provide a lot of creature comforts on the water and at anchor.

If you take up water skiing, there will be additional safety measures and signals you will need to know and, even if you don't water ski, you should become familiar with some of these signals any time you are on the water since you are likely to be sharing the space with water skiers and ski boats.  One of the most important signals is the flag that indicates there is a skier in the water.  This is a bright, hunter orange flat about 12" square and is used when the skier is down.  When you see this, slow down and exercise extra caution around that boat to avoid running over the person in the water.

Most states offer boating safety courses to help you get acquainted with rules and proper practices.  In some cases, proof of having completed such a course are required before you can operate a vessel in that state.

Boats with cabins usually have some kind of sanitation facilities.  On larger boats there will be holding tanks like those on on RV.  Unless you take the boat out of the water and have a way to drain the holding tanks, they will have to be pumped regularly to empty them.  Most marinas where you can rent moorage offer these services.  On smaller vessels you may have a portapotty which you can remove and empty yourself into a suitable dump station or maybe even into your own toilet at home.  In either case these will require the same kind of care and treatment as a black water tank on an RV.  Use only RV-safe toilet paper and never put facial tissue, sanitary napkins, wet wipes (not even those designated flushable), or paper towels into a toilet on a boat.  And, of course, keep an eye on the level of waste in the holding tank, including the little one on your portapotty!  Be sure to empty them BEFORE they get completely full.

If you get a boat with a cabin and plan to sleep in it, either docked in the harbor or at anchor in a remote cove, be sure to try it out where you have a way to easily escape if you find it unsuitable.  For example, we plan to aclimatise ourselves by sleeping in our boat a few times while it is still on the trailer at home before we add the strangeness of the sounds and feeling of being on the water.   Larger boats may have comfortable staterooms equipped with very good beds.  In smaller boats, like our 24 footer, the berths are under the bow (v-berth), in the converted dinette (much like the bed on a truck camper but with thinner cushions) or along the port (left) side under the cockpit.  Sleeping in the V-berth in the bow is a little like sleeping in a truck camper with limited headroom but with your feet jammed together into the narrow prow of the boat.  It isn't as uncomfortable as it sounds, but it may take some adjustment.  Be aware that even when tied up at a dock (and even more so when at anchor) a boat is going to rock.  Wake from passing boats, waves in the water, and even a gentle breeze blowing against the boat may cause it to move.  For some people it is soothing, like being rocked in a cradle.  But for other people this can be disquieting, even to the point of suffering insomnia or even getting seasick.

Speaking of getting seasick, it is not uncommon for people to get ill from the movement of a boat, especially until they get used to it.  There is popular commercial product to treat seasickness.  It is called Dramamine®. You can get it an just about any pharmacy without a prescription.  If you know or even suspect you are susceptible, be sure to pick some up before your first aquatic outing.  Some people even need it when traveling by car, train, or plane too.

If you can't get to the water, you may still be able to cool down in camp.  We used a kiddie pool on some of our desert outings and it was a hoot to see the big, burly dirt bikers in our group come over to splash around and cool off.   But you can cool each other off using squirt guns or cool yourself off with a spray bottle.   We even experimented with a mist system attached to the awning of our RV.  I used a separate water tank and pump to avoid a premature failure of the regular coach fresh water system.  A wet bandana tied around your neck can provide quite a bit of cooling for many activities from sitting around camp to hiking and dirt biking.

Aquatic activities can provide a welcome respite from summer heat and a pleasant alternative to hot, dry, land-locked excursions.  As with any kind of camping and motorized recreation, boating is a great way to create quality family time and create family bonding.

Ahoy mate!

Survivorman -- a Great Resource for Campers and Survivalists

OK, so what does Surviorman have to do with RVs and OHVs?  Well, nothing directly, but you could find yourself in a survival situation if your RV or OHV conks out on you or you get lost during an outing.  That is one of the reasons this blog also covers camping, wilderness survival, and emergency preparation and why I have referred to Survivorman in several previous posts.  One of Surviorman's eposides is even based on getting stranded in the desert when his off road motorcycle fails so there are some direct OHV applications.

Survivorman is one of my favorite TV shows.  Les Stroud is genuine, in both his survival activities and his mistakes.  He isn't afraid to let you see when he screws up.  He doesn't do it very often.  Survivorman is an excellent source of wilderness survival tips and techniques. Since he takes his adventures all over the planet you can very likely find one that matches conditions where you like to go.  Many of his survival practices can be directly applied to camping.

Les Stroud's techniques are usually things just about anyone can do without any special tools or special training.  But be aware he does seek expert advice from competent sources who are knowledgable in each area he goes into.  Knowing what edible and medicinal plants and what animals live in the area you are in can be live saving.  Some of his tips are generic and can be applied in many different environments.  See 24 of the Best Survival Tips from Surviorman.  Look over the list and see what you are likely to use in the situations you may encounter.  Every one is a golden tidbit that will make survival easier.  Then take a little time to practice each one.  You don't want to find out you missed or forgot something just when you need it most!

Even though Surviroman is no longer on regular TV, you can stream every episode of “Survivorman” on his site.  I have viewed every episode multiple times.   I learned (or re-learned) something new each time.  Whether time has simply erased some tidbits of information or my experience has matured during the intervals between watching doesn't really matter.  Learning something new or reinforcing important previously learned lessons is always good use of time.  And, if you're like me, it is fun!  I am somewhat disappointed that there are no new episodes of Surviorman, but the wide variety of environments he has endured (from ice and snow to steamy tropical jungles, from dry deserts to rain forests and deserted islands) is a veritable encyclopedia of survival techniques, many of which can be useful when camping.  You should be able to find an episode that applies to just about anyplace YOU might be going.

As I said in the opening paragraph, one of the things I most like about Survivorman is that Les Stroud is genuine.  Some other "survivor" shows are scripted and staged and are filmed by a separate film crew that accompanies the adventurer.  That might make for more professional cinematography and exciting television, but isn't particularly authentic, accurate, or educational.  In at least one instance I've seen documented, the "hero" was within sight of a busy highway while pretending to stranded far from civilization and instead of sleeping in his survival shelter was actually spending nights in a comfortable hotel room several miles away!  Les simply chooses a situation/location, gets dropped off with minimal tools and supplies (usually just his trusty multi-tool) and cameras.  Then he has to play it by ear.  Not only does he have to take care of his own survival, he has to do all the filming and lug all the camera equipment through his ordeal.  In many cases that means he has to backtrack to retrieve camera equipment making almost every leg of his trip twice as long as it appears on camera.  Since things are not scripted or staged, his camera records his mistakes right along with his successes and the mistakes aren't edited out of the final print.  I find that refreshing and informative.  Sometimes it is good to know what DOESN'T work and why so we can avoid making the same mistakes.  Having a film crew might give more polished cinematography, but Les' real world view is honest, accurate, and educational and I find  his filming and editing quite good.  From my perspective there are plenty of beautifully filmed dramas and documentaries I can watch if I'm just looking for technical film perfection.  I rather enjoy the unpretentious, sometimes even raw, presentations on Survivorman over fake, scripted so-called survival shows.  He even recorded and broadcast accidentally setting his driftwood survival shelter on fire!

You never know when what you learned on Survivorman may come in handy.  A while back I read of a young couple traveling in a pickup truck in snowy country who mistakenly tried to take "short cut" and ended up stranded miles from nowhere and had to walk out.  One of their survival techniques, which they credited to an episode of Surviorman, was to make mukluks out of the the upholstery and padding from the seat cushions to protect their feet from freezing while walking out to safety.  As a dirt biker I particularly appreciated an episode he did simulating getting stranded on a dirt bike somewhere out of Moab, Utah and can attest that the situation and his choices and techniques were valid.

Safety is always a primary concern in a survival situation, whether it is planned (as in the case of Survivorman) or accidental (as it would be for most of us!).  While Les does not have anyone looking out for him directly or following him during his escapades, he does prepare carefully for each one and has a rescue team standing by if he doesn't show up that the designated rendezvous point at the designated time.  We can all take a lesson from that and always leave word with family, friends, or appropriate local officials to let them know where we are going, when, and when we should return so they can take appropriate steps to find us if something unexpected happens and we don't show up at the end of our outing.  One of his regular techniques is to seek advice from local experts on each and every new place he goes.

Thank you, Survivorman!

Fall has fell...

Well, almost.  September 21, which is only a few days away, marks the official beginning of fall on the calendar.  Don't know about where you are, but where I am in western Oregon now, it is beginning to feel like fall.  Unusually hot summer temperatures have faded and we're headed into Oregon's famous rainy season.  My Dad used to say there were only three seasons in Oregon:  Spring, Summer, and Rain--- and it rained in the Spring and the Summer!  It is about time to think about putting our RV and camping equipment away for the season.  See End of Season for details about winterizing your RV and preparing you and your other equipment for storage.

If you live where you will get freezing temperatures you will need to winterize your RV and make sure there is nothing in your tent camping storage that will be damaged by freezing.  Tents and sleeping bags should be clean and dry before storage.  Sleeping bags should not be rolled tightly during extended storage as it will crush the loft and destroy their ability to keep you warm.  Open them up and hang them or pack them loosely.

If you're feeling adventurous you might venture out for a few more outings before the really cold weather hits.  If you do you will want to take weather conditions into consideration and bring along warm clothes.  Be sure your RV has plenty of propane and that the furnace is working properly.  A tent heater might let you extend your camping season a bit, but be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully to avoid any problems.  Tent heaters can cause fires so make sure they are kept away from tent walls, sleeping bags, clothing, etc that might catch fire.  Tent heater even "indoor" catalytic heaters that allegedly give off no toxic fumes, will still consume oxygen so make sure you have adequate ventilation  to avoid suffocation!

A trick I learned for sleeping on snow or cold ground is to unroll and unzip a couple of old sleeping bags.  Put one under the sleeping bag(s) you'll be sleeping in (I like it between the bag and the sleeping pad) and the other one over the top.  If you are sharing your tent with a companion, put the second sleeping bag so it covers both sleeping bags.  That way any heat that escapes from your primary sleeping bags is caught by the top cover and you effectively share body heat to keep you both warm all night.

If you are camping in desert areas where night time temperatures are still warm, you may want to add or include a battery powered tent fan. In fall we sometimes get what are called "Indian Summers", a few days of unusually warm weather, typically in October or November.  We recently spent a night in the Virgin River Gorge in northern Arizona and it was 106º around 7:30 pm and didn't really cool down enough to sleep until around 3:00 am!  We used a spray bottle liberally to cool both us directly and the little bit of breeze we got through the screens but a battery operated fan would have been very welcome.  It is definitely on the list for next time!

I've always found it more difficult to keep cool than to keep warm.  After all, you can always add layers to keep warm but there is only so much covers or clothing you can remove to cool down!

Fall camping is cool!

2 Wheeled Bug Out Vehicles?

 When we think of bug out vehicles we usually think of trucks, SUVs, or RVs that can carry us and a lot of survival equipment.  You may see highly equipped, very expensive, 4WD all terrain vehicles advertised as bug out vehicles.  Most of them are way beyond what the average camper or prepper could ever afford -- or would ever need for that matter.  Moreover, they may not even be very useful, depending on where you are, the nature of the disaster, and whether these humongous vehicles will be able to fit through places restricted by devastation.  However, there are other options that might be more versatile.   For example, I keep my dirt bikes ready to use at any time.  If roads are impassable due to an earthquake or flooding, I can use my dirt bike to get to safety through or around all kinds of terrain that would stop just about any other kind of vehicle.  It can also be used as a messenger vehicle during a local emergency where normal roads are impassable.  If you prefer an ATV or side-by-side, it too could provide options to go places where a normal street legal vehicle can't.  You' might want to find a way to attach some kind of hitch to the frame of the dirt bike or ATV.  Towing a trailer will limit some of the places you can go but it will give you the ability to carry a lot more survival gear with you.  You might also consider a luggage rack or saddle bags for extra carrying capacity.

An option seldom considered is a bicycle.  Too often we think of them only as toys or exercise machines, but in many parts of the world they are still a primary means of transportation.  Bicycles have several advantages.  They are not terribly expensive (unless you go for fancy road racers or competition level mountain bikes), they require no fuel other than the rider, they are light weight so you can carry them through terrain too rough to ride through.  A good bike could be your best bet for escaping an unsafe situation.  You don't see too many folks pulling trailers with bicycles (except in third world countries), but it is possible and would increase your cargo capacity.  If you are in average physical condition you should be able to pull up to 600 lbs on flat ground, which gives you considerably more room to bring along what you need than you'd have in even the biggest back pack.   The recommended back pack weight is usually about half the weight of the person carrying it, which will significantly limit what you can carry safely.  The capacity of a trailer over hills and rough terrain would, of course, be less than the 600 lbs over flat ground, but still much more than you could comfortably carry on your back.  If you decide to include a bicycle in your survival gear, the best bet would be a mountain bike, with off road tires and multiple gears.  Racing bikes are great on pavement, but the narrow tires wouldn't handle damaged roads or going off road if necessary very well.  A cruiser style bike will have tires capable of handling more types of terrain but usually are only one speed so they wouldn't be as good for negotiating hills or heavy loads.  As with a dirt bike, you will probably have to engineer your own trailer hitch if you do decide to pull a small trailer or you might want to add a luggage rack or saddle bags.   The little baby carriers you see towed behind bicycles might make a good starting place for bicycle hitches and trailers.  Bicycle baskets that attach to the handle bars can carry some things.

Saddlebags are another option for carrying extra gear on a bicycle.  Mounting beside the rear wheel puts the center of gravity of the bags and their contents fairly low so they don't affect handling as much as a handle bar basket or even wearing a back pack.

You will need a pretty small trailer to use behind a dirt bike or bicycle.  There are some trailers designed to pull behind ATVs and some for street bikes that might be a starting point.  Even a little garden cart designed to be used with riding mowers and garden tractors might work, but they usually aren't designed to be particularly light weight.  You might also consider building your own trailer from scratch.  The trailer kits you can find at places like Harbor Freight will usually be too big and too heavy for pulling behind a bike (pedal power or motorized).  You might make one from bicycle or tricycle parts or even use a child's "Radio Flyer" style wagon.  Some of these are available with big, soft, all-terrain tires designed for garden use and would adapt well for off road towing.

You will  need to limit the size of the trailer for several reasons.  First up, you don't want it to be too heavy.  The lighter the trailer, the more gear you can carry and the easier it will be to pull.  Secondly, you want something that you can pull through small spaces without difficulty.  In really difficult terrain you might even have to pull the trailer by hand or even be able to lift it over obstacles.  You will also want to make sure it is sturdy, dependable, and easy to maintain.

I have seen neat little tent trailers to pull behind ATVs that would even provide shelter, but you will sacrifice some cargo capacity if you choose one of these and they would probably be too big and heavy to reasonable tow behind a bicycle, but you might make it work behind a motorcycle.  If you need or want to be able to camp along the way, an easy, light weight, and inexpensive alternative is to toss in a small tent or maybe just a tarp you could toss over you and the trailer to protect you from hot sun or bad weather.

In a pinch you could rig a travois behind a bicycle or dirt bike to carry your gear or even transport an injured person.  You need a couple of poles lashed together at one end to attach to your bike with a tarp, blanket, or net stretched between the other two, spread out, ends to carry your load.  The advantages of a travois are primarily the ease of construction from readily available materials and the lack of moving parts that could fail.  The disadvantages include increased resistance in dragging them and fairly rapid wear on the trailing ends.   But they might be a very good option in an emergency for transporting a load or injured person a short distance.

Speaking of bicycles, I have even seen some three-wheeled rigs with a camper attached,  looking kind of like kind of pedal-powered Class C motorhome.  While those might provide the ultimate comfort for bugging out, do their height , width, and weight, they wouldn't be very practical on damaged roads or rough terrain and I, for one, would not want to try to pedal one of those up -- or down! -- much of a hill!  Likewise, there are custom made motorcycle based Class C motorhomes that would provide many of the features of a larger motorhome as a Disaster Recovery Vehicle, but might have greater range due to lower fuel consumption and, their smaller size might let them go places larger vehicles won't fit.

Here is a slick Youtube video of 15 Minicampers and Motorcylce Campers that might be useful for recreational outings as well as for an emergency bug-out.  Many of them include quite a bit of cargo capacity for carrying survival essentials.

One of the chief characteristics of survivalists is their ability to innovate.  Be innovative in your preparations as well as in your survival techniques.

Think outside the box!

Camping Equipment Maintenance

Just because your camping and/or recreational equipment doesn't have motors or gear boxes it doesn't mean you're off the hook for routine maintenance.  Mechanical equipment, like RVs, camping trailers, boats, and OHVs usually have rigorous maintenance schedules.  Tent camping avoids many of those time consuming and expensive processes, but there are still some routine maintenance tasks that should be performed fairly regularly on basic camping equipment to enure proper function and longevity.

Tent campers may not have to deal with the mechanical maintenance tasks that those who choose mechanized or motorized modes of travel and recreation do, but there are still some things we need to do routinely to keep our gear and equipment in top shape.  Failure to maintain gear and equipment is a sure recipe for premature failure.  A couple of good times to do routine maintenance are when you are preparing for an outing and when you return and put you stuff back in storage.  Major inspection and repairs are often done when you put your stuff into storage at the end of a season and when you get it out again for the next round of fun.

Tent maintenance.  Maintaining tents mostly consists of cleaning them and inspecting them for leaks or tears and making necessary repairs.  Keeping your tent clean is a simple but essential task.  Spilled foods, bird droppings, sap, and stains may attract insects or varmints that will damage the fabric.  Dirt left on the floor can grind away and weaken the fibers.  A tent that is rolled up and stored wet can mildew and rot.  That not only makes it unpleasant, but can destroy the fabric.  Always take time to sweep out your tent before rolling it up.  You may have to roll it up wet sometimes, but if you do, unroll it and let it dry out at home before you put it back into storage.  Small tears can  usually be sewed up by hand and sealed with seam sealer.  If caught in time making repairs will avoid catastrophic failure that would force you to send it out for repairs or buy a new tent.  Temporary repairs for small cuts and tears can be made in the field using duct tape or some kind of waterproof sealing tape.  These should be properly sewed and sealed when you get home and before your next outing.  Nylon repair tape is convenient way to make both temporary and permanent repairs.  It is often self-adhesive but stitching is always more secure.  Another important part of tent maintenance is cleaning.  You should always sweep out your tent before taking it down and brush away debris from the fabric as you roll or fold it up for transport and storage.  Clean the screens and windows and the zippers.   You can lubricate zippers with a number of ordinary household products but I like to use a commercial produce like Zip-Ease.  Household products you can try include a graphite pencil, crayons, candle wax, Chapstick, Vaseline, WD-40 and silicone lubricants.  Aways test any lubricant on a small, hidden place if possible to make sure it won't stain the tent fabric.  When using sprays, such as WD-40 or silicone, use the tube style nozzle and apply it sparingly.   When using a Crayon, match the color to the color of the zipper.  If your tent is wet or even damp from rain or dew, be sure to unpack it and let it dry out before you put it in storage.  When using liquid or spray lubricants, use dry lube instead of oily products if possible.  Inspect the roof and sides for soiling from birds or tree sap and remove such deposits as soon as practical.  Avoid putting your tent into storage with soiled spots.  Reactions between the contamination and the fabric may stain, rot, or weaken the fabric.  Bird crap can usually be removed satisfactorily with soap and water.  Sap may require a stronger solvent such as Goo Gone.  Some folks use turpentine to remove tree sap but it may damage tent fabrics so it would be wise to test it on something non-essential (like the tent peg bag) before using it on your tent.  I've even heard of using mayonnaise to remove sap, but then you have to remove the mayonnaise!

Sleeping bag maintenance.  Unless your sleeping bag is badly soiled or smells bad all you normally need to do is hang it out for a few hours to let it air out and dry before putting it away.  Mild odors might be controlled with a fabric freshener like Fabreze.  It would be a good thing if you have room to store your sleeping bags hanging.  It avoids compressing the fill.  Tightly rolling your sleeping bag may let you store it in a smaller space, but it will destroy the loft and it will no longer keep you warm.  If you can't or don't want to hang your sleeping bag, fold it carefully and store it in a tub or box that lets it remain loose.  If you detect a light odor you might try spraying the bag lightly with a fabric freshener such as Fabreze.  Be sure to let it dry before rolling or folding it for storage.  Badly stained or awful smelling sleeping bags should be taken to your local dry cleaners for cleaning.  It isn't cheap, but its way less than a new sleeping bag!  Some sleeping bags may indicate they can be machine washed, but I am somewhat skeptical.  I had a cold weather parka, with construction similar to a sleeping bag and with a label claiming it could be machine washed.  Just one washing virtually ruined the jacket.  The fill was so badly bunched up there were many places where there was no fill at all, just the inner and outer layers of nylon.

Gas stove maintenance.  Gas stoves, whether white gas or propane, are usually quite reliable, even without a lot of preventive maintenance.  But that doesn't mean you can or should ignore them.  Be sure to clean up any cooking spills after each use.  Clean the burners and the bottom of the stove.  Be sure to clean the openings in the burners.  If there are places where a spill has clogged some of the openings, there won't be any flame there, creating a cold spot in your cooking surface.  Gas stoves that use liquid fuel have a pump built into the fuel tank to create the pressure needed to feed gas to the burners.  These pumps usually use a leather washer which can dry out and become ineffective.  A drop or two of oil (just about any oil, even motor oil will do) will usually restore flexibility.  If that doesn't work you may have to rebuild the pump.   Rebuild kits are available at most sporting goods stores where the stoves are sold and cost from about $3.00 to $20.00.  The cheaper kits usually just replace the washer; more expensive versions often replace the many of the hard parts as well.  You might need the higher priced kit if you have lost the knob on the pump.  If the pump is working fine and there is fuel in the tank but the stove still doesn't work, it probably has a bad generator.  This is a little brass tube through which the liquid gasoline travels and is converted to a gas before entering the burners.  Generators are fairly easy to replace and only cost around $10.

Gas lanterns.  Gas lanterns may use gasoline or propane.  Propane cylinders are pressurized.  You have to pressurize the fuel tank on gasoline lanterns using the pump built into the tank.  If the pump stops working, a drop or two of oil may soften the leather gasket and restore enough flexibility to get it working again.  If it is too badly worn it may have to be replaced.  Liquid fuel lanterns also have generators that an sometime go bad.  Just as with gas stoves, there are rebuild kits.  The kits for any given brand can usually be used on both stoves and lanterns so you shouldn't have to carry multiple rebuild kits.  The most frequent maintenance chore for gas lanterns is replacing the mantles.  The mantles are little sock-like mesh bags.  You have to remove or lift the globe of the lantern to replace the mantles.  There may be one or more mantles in each lantern depending on its size.  The mantles have a string threaded through the open end.  Slip the open end over the end of the flared tube inside the globe and tie it tightly in place with the string.  Then take a match or lighter and burn the silk mesh sock.  The ash that remains is heated white-hot when the lantern is lit.  Because the mantles are made of ash, they are quite fragile.  Bumping the lantern may cause them to crack or break and then they will no longer confine the gas and burn properly.  Always carry several replacement mantles with you when you're using a gas lantern.  Another routine task is cleaning the globe.  Always do this when the globe is cool.  Cleaning a hot globe may result in  burning your fingers or breaking the globe.  If the hot globe comes in contact with cold water or a cold cloth, it may crack or even shatter.  Carefully clean both the inside and outside of the glass globe before each trip and as often as needed when using the lantern -- when the globe is cool.  Cracked or broken globes should be replaced.  Most gas lanterns are  held together by a knurled nut at the top.  Make sure this nut is always snug but don't over tighten it.  Regularly check to see if the bail or handle is properly attached.  If it is loose and you try to pick it up, the lantern my slip off and fall.

Battery lanterns.  Battery lanterns are far easier to care and less fragile than gas lanterns.  They usually have plastic rather than glass globes.  But that doesn't mean they don't need some attention.   The same thing applies to flashlights.  You will want to check the condition of the batteries before each trip and either recharge the lantern or replace the batteries if the voltage is low.  You might want to put one of the batteries in backwards when you will be putting the lights into storage for a while to prevent battery drain.  Low batteries are likely to fail during extended storage, often leaking and damaging the light, so check the batteries before storing your lanterns or flashlights too.   Check the battery compartment for signs of leakages or contamination.  Carefully clean any yucky stuff out of the battery compartment paying special attention to the contacts the battery connects to.  They should always be clean and shiny.  You may need to clean the globe periodically too.  Since there is no soot or smoke inside, normally all you have to do is clean the outside.  Window cleaner, like Windex, usually works well but just to safe, check your owners' manual.  Some plastics may have special cleaning instructions.  Ordinary soap and water is usually safe for all surfaces.   Be sure not to rub too hard or too long in one place as it may scratch or burnish the surface and never rub them without some kind of liquid cleaner or the dust will scratch and dull the surface.  Badly scratched or cloudy globes might benefit from a multi-step plastic cleaner like those used for motorcycle windshields.  If that doesn't work you may have to replace the globe if you can find one or the entire lantern if you can't. You might check garage sales for options for replacement parts.

Camp chairs.  Camp chairs mostly just need to be cleaned once in awhile.  Some of the old style aluminum folding chairs used screws to hold the mesh to the frame.  If you have one of these you'll want to make sure all the screws are tight before each trip.  Cloth chairs like the popular "quad" chairs can be cleaned with soap and water, rinsed with water, and let dry.  Don't fold them up until they are dry. The mesh on folding aluminum chairs can also be cleaned with soap and water if badly soiled but if they're only dusty you might just blow them off with compressed air.   If the webbing is badly worn you can buy replacement kits to re-web aluminum chairs.  If you find your folding chairs are getting hard to open and close or they make squeaking sounds when you open and close them, you might want to put a little bit of lubricant on the pivot points.  Don't use a lot of oil because it will just collect dust and get on the fabric when the chair is closed up for storage.  A dry Teflon lubricant would be a good choice.  If you use a wet lubricant like WD-40, be sure to avoid spraying on too much.  You might even want to spray some in the cap and apply it with a little water color brush or Q-tip so you don't get too much in one place.  The legs on some chairs have caps or feet on the end.  These often get lost or damaged.  You may be able to purchase rubber cane tips to replace missing feet on round legs.  Missing caps may allow the legs to dig into the ground, letting the chair tip while you are sitting in it and damp soil trapped inside the feet may accelerate corrosion.

Knives and axes.  Inspect  your knives and axes.  Test the blades and makes sure they are clean and sharp.  Gently sand away any rust.  Coat the metal surfaces with a light oil.  Make sure handles are secure in axe heads and that the handles are smooth and in good condition.  You may sand rough wooden handles.  Rub wooden handles with linseed oil to protect them against moisture, make the comfortable to handled, and give the handle a nice "glow".  Dull tools are more dangerous and more difficult to use than sharp ones.  Sharpen blades as needed and use some kind of blade protector while the tools are in storage.  Shovels aren't as sensitive to needing sharp blades, but keeping them clean and appropriately sharp is a good idea.   A bit of WD-40 on the steel to prevent rust and some linseed oil on wooden handles will help keep them in top shape for the next outing.

Hiking sticks usually just need to be cleaned regularly,  but collapsible models might need a bit of lubrication.  Inspect the grips and repair or replace any that are loose or damaged.  Metal models should be checked to see if they have gotten bent and, if so, try to gently straighten them.  Wooden walking sticks might benefit from a light rubbing with linseed oil or a good furniture oil.

Other equipment.  Depending on what kind of recreational activities you normally participate in you may have other pieces of equipment that need your attention.  If you have an owners manual or instruction sheet, be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.  Lacking specific guidelines, be sure to regularly clean and inspect each item and make repairs as needed.  Check the functionality of each item to make sure it is working right.  If it doesn't work right, examine it for damage.  A frequent cause of problems in anything with moving parts is contamination or lack of lubrication.  A little dry Teflon or even a modest application of WD-40 may work wonders.  Metal components of equipment may have gotten bent and you might be able to restore proper movement by straightening the bent part.  Slight bends can usually be successfully straightened but anything that has been kinked or cracked will probably have to be replaced before it fails catastrophically.  Anything that gets bent more than once will be weakened and should be replaced.  Check for and tighten any loose fasteners but take care not to over tighten them.  Over tightening can damage parts and interfere with proper movement.

Camp clothing should be washed and carefully stored until the next season.  You should also inspect your camp clothing and replace any missing buttons, repair loose seams or tears, or, if it is too badly damage to be salvage, discard and replace it.  Often fixing some loose buttons or stiching up a small tear will keep things in working condition for another season or two.

Keep it working!

Boat Maintenance

Boats, like any other piece of equipment, require regular maintenance.  The maintenance required will depend on the type of boat and the type of equipment onboard.  Boat and engine manufacturers will provide required maintenance schedules in their owner's manuals as will most other major equipment providers.

Most boats will have some kind of motor.  Even many sailboats have an outboard or even inboard auxiliary motor for maneuvering in the marina and dealing with lack of wind.  Motors typically have fuel, air, and, unless they are 2-strokes, oil filters that need to be changed regularly.  All controls need to be regularly inspected, cleaned, and lubricated. 2-stroke engines are prone to fouling spark plugs so the plug(s) should be inspected and cleaned or replaced as necessary.   Failure to perform required maintenance will invalidate most warranties and will likely lead to performance problems and even premature engine failure.  Propellers need to be inspected regularly to make sure they are secure and free from debris that could hamper operation.  Ropes and fishing line often get wrapped around propellers and they can accumulate marine growths when left in the water.  Anything that interferes with the rotation of the propeller or the movement of the propeller through the water (such as algae or barnacles) will affect performance and could lead to excess engine wear or total propeller failure.

Canoes, kayaks, and other human powered craft don't have motorized mechanical components but still need regular care.  They need to be regularly inspected for leaks or any signs of damage or deterioration that might lead to problems on the water.  Sometimes that includes caulking seams and repainting hulls.  It might also mean sanding and refinishing or repairing handles of oars and paddles.   Oar locks and any other moving parts may need lubrication.  It should always include a review and inspection of necessary safety equipment.  Even canoes and kayaks should carry personal flotation devices for everyone one board and are often required to have at least one throwable flotation device plus a throw rope for rescuing someone who has fallen overboard.

All boats need to have their hulls maintained.  Trailerable boats can be cleaned every time they are pulled out of the water, usually at least each winter if not after every trip.  Boats kept in the water can sometimes be cleaned by divers while the boats are still in the water but will still need to be pulled out, thoroughly cleaned, and repainted every so often.  Boat paint, especially bottom paint, is very different from house paint.  It is formulated to help prevent algae buildup and is often ablative in nature so various kinds of debris that might otherwise attach to the hull in the water will fall off.  The frequency of bottom painting depends on the type, quality, and amount of paint on the boat to start with and the water conditions to which it is exposed.  Salt water tends to be harder on bottom paint than fresh water and heavy infestations of barnacles, mollusks, and algae will shorten paint life.  Of course any physical contact with rocks or sand, such as beaching a boat, will also wear the paint faster.

Maintaining the appearance of your boat does more than just make it look good.   Regular cleaning and proper surface treatment lets you identify many problems before they become serious.  If you notice soft spots on the deck you probably have some deterioration of the wooden core used on fiberglass boats.  Surface maintenance procedures will depend on what your boat is made of.  Fiberglass boats usually have a gelcoat that is very durable and can be updated or painted over if it begins to craze as it ages.  Wooden boats are usually painted or varnished and may need to be sanded down and refinished when the paint or varnish gets damaged or worn.  Aluminum boats usually just need to be cleaned but an occasional polishing will renew their appearance.  Keeping surfaces clean, regardless of the underlying structure, helps prevent wear.  Dirt can accelerate the affects of fading.  I knew a car painter who would guarantee his clear coat as long as the owners washed their cars at least once every two weeks.   The build up of dirt magnified the effects of sunlight and quickly destroyed the clear coat if not kept clean.  Keeping up the appearance of your boat will add to your enjoyment and most likely add to the resale value when it comes time to sell it or trade it in.

There are seams and joints between sections, windows and/or accessories on many boats.  Each of these is a potential point of leaks and should be regularly inspected and resealed as necessary.  A common source of leaks on any kind of boat with a cabin is the joint between the deck and the hull.  Walking on the deck and the pounding of waves on the hull often loosens these joints.  Boats with inboard motors will have places where the drive shaft passes through the hull and these require special attention and should be repacked regularly to avoid the development of leaks.  Many boats have "sea valves" that either let water out of of into the boat for various legitimate purposes.  Any thru-the-hull device is a possible point of failure and should be regularly inspected so it closes properly and sealed so it doesn't leak when it is closed.

Many boats have a sliding companionway at the entrance to the cabin.   These sliding doors should normally be water resistant.  If there are signs of leakage, look for worn or damaged seals or see if there is a way to add weatherstripping.  If all else fails you may want to place a tarp over the companionway slide when the boat is not in use to prevent rain instrusion.  Companionway slides and the surfaces they ride on get worn over time, making them hard to slide.  You can sometimes repair the damage using UWMD or HDPE tape.  Put a strip  underneath the edges of the companionway where it meets the deck.  If the edges of the companionway slide itself are worn you might wrap the edges with UHMD or HDPE tape.  Sometimes just applying a good dry silicon lubricant to the mating surfaces will solve the problem.  Other times you might need to sand rough sliding surfaces and refinish them to reduce friction

All hatches and compartments should be inspected for water leaks on a regular basis.  When leaks are found the seals and weatherstripping should be repaired or replaced.  Use weatherstripping designed specifically for each hatch if possible.  If not available, you might be able to adapt some form of ordinary, adhesive household weatherstripping from your hardware store or home center.  Warped or swollen hatch boards can sometimes be straightened or planed to fit better.  Replacing wooden hatch boards with marine starboard is often a relatively inexpensive alternative to buying new and costly teak hatch boards and the starboard looks good, requires little maintenance, and is durable and waterproof.  Our Macgregor 25 has hatch boards made of something like wood-finished masonite.  The edges where the two sections of the removable hatch boards had gotten wet from rain and had softened and swollen and no longer fit together.  I cut away the bulk of the damaged material using a razor knife, then used a fine-tooth file to reshape the mating surfaces.  I applied clear polyurethane over the entire surface both inside and out, taking special pains to soak the exposed edges.  Once the polyurethane dried I was able to again file the now hardened mating surface to get a really nice fit.  Hopefully saturating the edges with polyurethane will help prevent a repeat of the swelling that damaged the mating edges and made the hatch boards difficult to slide in and out of position.

The standing rigging and running rigging on sailboats should be inspected at least once a year.   Standing rigging includes the stays and shrouds (cables that support the mast(s) and spar(s)) as well as the masts, booms, and spars themselves.  Running rigging comprises the ropes used as halyards to raise the sails, as sheets to control the sails, and as other lines and lifts including docking lines.  Worn or frayed lines should be replaced.  Of course the masts and spars should also be inspected for damage or signs of wear.  Docking lines, which tend to get soaked, may also begin to rot.  Stress cracks are one sign of a failing mast, boom, or spar.  Pulleys, clamps, and other hardware that is part of the standing and running rigging should be inspected and adjusted as necessary.  Pulleys may need a bit of waterproof lubrication occasionally.  Pulleys that don't move freely or make a squealing noise when used definitely need attention.  If lubrication doesn't solve the problem they should be replaced as soon as possible.   Life lines and stanchions should be solid and without any frayed or broken lines or connections.  Loose or damaged stanchions should be properly repaired or replaced.  Sails should be inspected and cleaned or repaired as necessary.  You probably wont be able to tell if the sails are stretched out and need to be replaced until they are hoisted and filled with air so always check your sail shape when you are sailing.  Sometimes stretched sails can be repaired by a sail maker but usually once they are stretched out they will have to be replaced to maintain good performance.  Worn sails may also be subject to failure in  use possibly causing you to lose control or be stranded.

Sails, of course, should be inspected each time they are used.  Any tears or other points of wear should be repaired as soon as possible to prevent the damage from spreading.  Pay attention to the crispness of your sail when handling it and the shape when it is in use.   Sails that are floppy to touch are usually worn and stretched and should probably be replaced.  Sails whose shape in use shows excessive billowing have also reached the end of their useful lives and should be replaced.  Sometimes older sails can be repair and re-tuned by a competent sail maker but usually you will have to find matching used sails in good condition or buy new sails.

Docking lines and cleats should be inspected often.  Lines showing fraying, rot, or wear should be replaced.  Loose cleats should be properly anchored and sealed.  Damaged or broken cleats should be replaced.  Annual inspection might be a good time to install additional cleats if you have been thinking about doing so.  Extra cleats give you more options for securing your boat at the dock.  Bow and stern cleats are used to hold a boat centered in a slip.  Proper docking often requires the used of spring lines to keep the boat from moving forward and backward in the slip.  I've seen people using the same cleats for docking lines and spring lines.  It can be done but having separate cleats for the spring lines midships makes hooking things up much easier, is easier to adjust, and is generally more secure.

Regular scrubbing of the decks and hull above the waterline is a good way to keep a boat looking good.  It is also essential to inspecting the condition of the deck and hull.  Soft spots likely mean rot beneath the surface that should be repaired as soon as practical.  Stress fractures or cracks may be visible that may help identify structural problems so they can be repaired before they lead to a catastrophic failure.  Gelcoat on fiberglass boats can sometimes be restored using special cleaners.  If all else fails you may need to redothe Gelcoat or paint the topside.  Be sure to use non-skid paint on the portions of the deck where you will normally be walking.  You can add non-skid materials to any Topside paint to match or complement the deck paint color.  I like the idea of rubber-based anti-skid additives like Softsand.  They work well and are easier on bare feet than the coarse grit (sand or crushed walnut shells) used in other non-skid additives.  I have also had really good success adding a product called Clear-grip for anti-skid protection on my boat deck.  It provides a non-slip surface that isn't gritty or harsh like typical sand or crushed walnut additives.

Equipment in the cabins of boats will very likely depend on the type of boat, the owner's preferences, and how the boat it used.  Some common facilities include galley and head fixtures such as stoves, iceboxes, and toilets.  Many boats have radios and electronic navigation equipment that need to be regularly tested.  Stoves, iceboxes, and sanitation facilities should be thoroughly cleaned at least annually, more if so indicated in their respective owner's manuals or if they get high use.  Check your bilge pumps.  Every boat should have at least a manual bilge pump and many larger boats have electrically or battery operated pumps to expel unwanted water from inside the hull.  Many boaters keep a bucket handy for bailing out the boat as needed.

Electrical systems should be inspected to make sure there are no loose or corroded connections or frayed wires.  Batteries should be inspected and, if necessary, topped off with distilled water.  Corrosion is a very common problem in a marine environment, especially in salt water.  Loose or damaged connections should be promptly repaired to ensure proper operation of electrical systems and to prevent fires.  Dim or flickering lights are one obvious indicator of bad wiring.  Pay special attention to navigational lights to make sure they are properly installed and functioning correctly.  Failure of navigational lights could lead to collisions if you are out on the water after dark.

Not all boats have plumbing systems, but those that do should be inspected and any loose or damaged connections or fittings or faulty pipes, tanks, and fixtures repaired or replaced.  Pay special attention to any thru-hull fittings that can allow water to seep into the boat.

Safety equipment should be inventoried and inspected.   Safety equipment should include personal flotation devices (PFDs, i.e., life vests), throwable floation devices (cushions and life saver rings), horns, whistles, flares, and lights (signal lights and navigation lights.  Flags are also a common safety feature.  Sailboats may require "day shapes" that are used to alert other boaters the sailboat is at anchor or under mechanical auxiliary power.  All boats should carry a proper distress flag for emergencies.  All safety devices should be in good condition and readily available to the crew.

Keep afloat!

OHV Mechanical Maintenance

Like any other piece of machinery, an OHV is going to require a certain amount of maintenance.  Without it you will experience premature wear and equipment failure.  The last thing you want is for your dirt bike or ATV to break down when out on some remote trail miles from nowhere.  The last thing you want to do is have to push your OHV back to camp!  Performing regular maintenance will help minimize the chances of that happening.

Each machine is going to have its own maintenance schedule recommended by the manufacturer.  The maintenance schedule will be included in the owner's manual.  If you purchased a used machine and didn't get an owner's manual you may be able to find one at your local dealer or on the Internet.  In the meantime, there are many routine maintenance tasks you can perform to keep your machine in top shape.  You may have to guess about period between major tasks like changing engine or transmission oil or servicing hydraulic brakes and clutches but it wouldn't hurt (except perhaps in your pocketbook!) to do them once a year.  Engine oil should be changed more often, especially if the machine is getting lots of use.  2-stroke engines rely mostly on the oil mixed in the gas and don't have oil in the engine pan.  4-stroke engines do have an oil pan and pressurized lubrication systems and you need to keep an eye on the oil level (check it before every ride).  If when you check it is gritty or smells burned, it needs to be changed regardless of how recently it has been done.   Black oil is OK.  Most oils contain detergents to keep the engine clean so fresh oil can quickly become black soon after an oil change.  Most OHVs also have transmissions that need attention.  Check the oil level before every ride and change the oil according to the manufacturer's instructions or whenever it shows signs of deterioration.  Some common problems to look for include metal shavings on the dip stick, which indicate damage to the gears inside, and discolored or foamy oil that may indicate water contamination.  Other lubrication should be done as needed.  Drive chains should be lubricated before every ride and after they have been cleaned.  Wheel bearings and suspension should be lubricated several times a years, more often if your rides include water crossings.  Throttle, brake, and clutch cables should be lubricated frequently.  Because they are enclosed they probably don't need to done for every ride, but once a month would not be too often.

If you have the owner's manual, or can copy the maintenance schedule from someone who does, be sure to follow the manufacturer's guidelines.  Following proper procedures (and documenting it) is often required to maintain warranties and is always a good way to prevent premature wear and tear.  Even it you do not need documentation for warranty purposes, it is a good idea to maintain an accurate record of maintenance for your own benefit so you know when it needs to be done again.  Good maintenance records may also help improve resale value if/when you decide to sell your vehicle.

Another significant part of routine maintenance is checking for and tightening or replacing loose or missing fasteners.  The constant vibration and sometimes jarring impacts OHVs experience causes bolts, nuts, and screws to work loose.  Using a thread locker like Loc-Tite will help keep them secure but is no substitute for checking them often (at least before every ride).

Some, but not all, OHVs have electric starters.  If yours does, it will  have a battery.  You will need to monitor the battery condition and make sure is properly charged for each ride.  Check the electrolyte level at least once a month and top it off with distilled water if it is low.  Use a "trickle charger" to keep the battery fully charged when your equipment is in storage between outings.

Brakes and clutches need regular adjustment to function properly.  Brakes that are too tight or clutches that are too loose will slip.  When that happens not only do they not function right, they will wear out quickly.  Brake pads or shoes can usually be changed by a fairly handy DIY mechanic at home.  Clutches often require special tools and techniques, but many riders learn how to do this themselves too.

Tires wear out from normal riding and will often loose a little air while in storage.   Check tire pressure before each ride.  Some experienced riders use a "pinch test" but using a pressure gauge is more accurate and reliable, especially for novice riders.  When tires get worn replace them.  Worn tires won't have the traction or durability to support off road riding.

Spending a little time and money doing routine maintenance will pay back many times over in avoiding expensive and inconvenient breakdowns out on the trail.  Maintenance may not be as much fun as using your OHV, but its a lot more fun than pushing or towing it when it breaks down due to poor maintenance!

Work it!

Trailer Mechanical Maintenance

The living quarters of travel trailers required basically the same kind of routine maintenance as any other RV:  regular cleaning, checking for and sealing leaks, servicing appliances, dumping and flushing holding tanks, winterizing (if you don't live in the Sun Belt), and sanitizing the fresh water system.

Unlike motorized RVs, travel trailers have only a few mechanical components you'll need to take care of.  Motorized RVs have literally ALL the mechanical systems (and potential problems) as any other motor vehicle:  engine, cooling system, transmission, drive line, suspension, tires, and brakes.  Travel trailers don't have engines or power trains so they require a lot less mechanical maintenance but there are things you need to watch for and tasks you need to do on a regular basis.

Tires and wheels.  One of the most visible and most obvious mechanical parts of a travel trailer are the tires and wheels.  While some ordinary car or truck tires may fit your trailer wheels, you should use trailer rated tires.  They are designed specifically for the kind of use (or non use) they get on trailers, including long periods in storage.  Check your tire pressure frequently and always maintain the proper pressure.  Your trailer should have a tire pressure label or you can get it from the owner's manual or the manufacturer.  Lacking any specific recommendations, inflate the tires to the maximum pressure indicated on the side wall.  If your trailer is light, using the maximum side wall pressure may over inflate the tires.  When that happens you will see excess wear in the center of the tread and the trailer may feel "squirrelly" in the wind or when buffeted by passing trucks.   Over inflated tires also create a harsher ride that might you might notice as vibrations or bumping transmitted through the hitch to your tow vehicle.   If your tires are under inflated you will see excess wear on both edges of the tread and the tires may run hot, which reduces their life expectancy and, if the get hot enough, can cause blowouts.  Excess wear on only on one edge means the axle is out of alignment, caused the tries to be dragged a little sideways.  Mushy tires will increase rolling resistance, making your tow vehicle work harder to pull the trailer and lowering fuel economy.  One way to ensure proper inflation is to have your trailer weighed and inflate the tires using a weight/inflation chart.

In addition to proper inflation, regularly inspect your tires for wear and side wall cracking.  Most RVs, including travel trailers, get limited use and tread life usually exceeds the expected life time of the tire.  Side wall cracking is an indication that the tires have "timed out" and are becoming susceptible to blowouts.  Wear patterns can be an indication of other problems so monitor them closely.  As mentioned above, excessive wear in the center of the tread indicates over inflation; excessive wear on both edges indicates under inflation; wear on only one edge is probably due to misalignment;  more wear on one tire than the others on a trailer may indicate a brake is dragging on that wheel or that the wheel bearings are going bad and have extra resistance.  Brake or wheel bearing problems will also result in the affected tire(s) getting hotter than the others.

Lug nuts are one of the most often neglected components of trailers.  Sometimes they are hidden under hub caps but even when they are exposed, most people tend to ignore them.  If they are in good condition and have been properly torqued they usually won't have any problems.  However, the constant vibration can loosen lug nuts.  One indication is a shiny ring behind the nut(s) where the wheel has been wobbling.  It is a good idea to check your lug nuts regularly, at least before each trip.  You might do it using a proper lug wrench and making sure they feel tight but the best way is to check them with a torque wrench to be sure they are correct.  When you tighten lug nuts or other fasteners the bolt inside is slightly stretched as the they are tightened.  A torque wrench measures just how tight the fasteners are.  Torque specs are provided by manufacturers indicating the proper tension needed for them to operate at design capacity.  Under torqued fasteners may come loose; over torqued fasteners may stress the bolts and nuts and cause them to fail prematurely.   Extreme over torquing can even strip the bolts and nuts.  When checking the lug nuts also inspect the wheel for signs of damage:  dents in the rim or any cracking.  Have someone stand behind the trailer and watch as you pull it forward a few feet to see if the wheels wobble.   Wobbling wheels may be bent, loose, or may have bad wheel bearings.

Hubs and wheel bearings are another part of the system that is "out of sight, out of mind" for many people.  That can be a dangerous mistake!  Properly lubricated wheel bearings will last for many years and many thousands of miles if not abused.  Abuse comes when the the axle is overloaded or the lubricant is compromised by water, dirt, or solvents or simply get used up.   Check your owners manual or with your dealer to determine the recommended schedule for servicing your wheel bearings.  Lacking any other guidelines, service them at least once a year, more often if they get submerged (e.g., a boat trailer, fording streams, or caught in a flood).  Servicing them consists of removing the bearing from the hub, cleaning an inspecting the bearings and the hubs for wear, re-packing the wheel bearings with appropriate grease, reinstalling the wheel bearings and torquing the axle nut to the proper specification.  Most axle nuts have a slotted cover that has a cotter pin that goes through the slots and through a hole in the end of the axle to keep the nut underneath from spinning as the wheel turns.  Always use a new cotter pin.  The old one  will have been weakened by bending and unbending as it is installed and removed and could break.  If the axle nut is too loose, the wheel will wobble, stressing the hub, bearing, wheel and tire.  If the axle nut is too tight,  it will put extra pressure on the wheel bearings, causing them to overheat and wear faster.  When you remove and inspect the bearings some of the things to look out for are contaminates in the grease (dirt, water, metal shavings), burned grease (may be black and dusty instead of greasy or may only smell burned), any loose or missing balls in the bearing, any signs of wear on the bearing race inside the hub.  Damaged races can sometimes be pressed out and replaced but very often by the time the race is damaged the hub also needs to be replaced.   Packing the wheel bearings with grease before reinstalling them is a crucial step.  You want to make sure the grease fills the bearing.  There are tools that clamp around bearings and have a grease fitting that allow you to use a grease gun to pack the bearings but the most common way of packing bearings is to place a dollop of grease in one hand  (your left hand if you're right handed or your right hand if you're left  handed), then hold the bearing firmly by one edge in your dominate hand with the wide side of the bearing down.  Press  the edge of the  bearing opposite your hand down into the grease in the other hand until new grease squeezes out the top side of the bearing.  Then rotate the bearing slightly to the next position and repeat until you have packed grease all the way around the bearing.   Different applications may require different types of grease.  Ordinary wheel bearing grease is the most common, but boat trailers should use a special waterproof grease.  General purpose grease is usually OK for most trailer wheel bearings but for best results use Disc/Drum Brake Wheel Bearing Grease.

Some trailer axles have a grease fitting in the end of the axle so you can lubricate the bearings without having to remove and repack them.  Even with these you will want to remove the hubs and inspect and repack the bearings every year or two.  With other types of axles, even if they have an added on bearing protection system like a Bearing Buddy that lets you use a grease gun to push grease into the outer bearing, the hubs should be removed and the bearings inspected and repacked at least once a  year.  The after market bearing protection systems do not adequately lubricate the inner bearings.

Trailer suspension.  Most travel trailers I've seen have leaf springs that connect the axles to the frame and absorb some if not most of the bounce when the wheels encounter an obstacle or rough surface.   A few also  have shock absorbers.  Sometimes shock absorbers can be added to minimize bouncing of the trailer.  Since you're not riding in it, minimizing bouncing mainly helps avoid unwanted rearranging of the contents and reducing stress on coach components but if you can feel excessive bouncing of the trailer through the hitch into the tow vehicle, you might want to explore the possibility of adding shock absorbers.  Springs generally don't require a lot of maintenance.  For the most part you just need to make sure all the fasteners are tight and not damaged.   Spring shackles should be greased periodically.   Lacking any specific recommendations from the manufacturer, they should be lubricated at least once year.  When you inspect your springs, the leaves should all be neatly stacked on top of each other, not twisted or skewed and there should be no signs of cracked or broken leaves. Usually the springs are slung  under the axles and held on by massive U-bolts.   Sometimes, if the ride height is too low, you can do what they call "flipping the axle".  That generally means moving the springs so they rest on top of the axle instead of being slung underneath it and raising the height of the body several inches.  If you have a drop axle and need even more height, it might be possible to literally flip the axle over.  Normally drop axles drop down between the wheels to  lower the trailer body. Flipping it over or replacing it with a straight axle will then raise the trailer body.  Exercise caution and check with a qualified technician before "flipping" an axle.  Doing so may have unexpected consequences.  For example, some axles are designed so the wheels tilt slightly.  Flipping them over will reverse the angle of the wheels, which will affect handling and tire wear as well as clearance inside the wheel wells.

More on trailer springs.  Most trailers have leaf springs that require little maintenance but over time, the vibration and flexing may cause one or more leaves to break.  If you have to replace the springs, be sure to measure them so you get the right length and get the right style shackles.  Always replace springs in pairs.  Doing just one side will likely result the new side being higher than the old one and will stress both the axle and the body of the trailer.  Sometimes you can increase ride height and weight capacity by using heavier springs.  Sometimes you can also adjust ride height by changing the spring shackles.  But be aware that using longer shackles may put extra stress on the shackles and their mounting points because of additional leverage so consult a suspension expert first.  In addition to replacing springs,  a good spring shop can re-arc and rebuild existing springs.  Re-arcing restores the shape and function of the original springs.  Rebuilding replaces damage leaves and/or adds leaves for extra capacity. 

Trailer axles.   Trailer axles are usually pretty sturdy and don't require any maintenance.  They may be solid or tubular, round or square, straight or drop style.  You should visually inspect your axle(s) from time to time to ensure they are securely attached, properly aligned, and have not been damaged.  Bent axles will affect handling and cause excessive tire wear.  Cracked axles are rare but are in danger of breaking and dropping your whole trailer onto the pavement!  If you have a bent or damaged axle you might be inclined to try to repair it rather than replace it.  Not a good idea!  Damaged axles should be replaced.   You will want to find a matching axles (length, diameter of the tubing, straight or drop style) unless you have a need to change the ride height. 

Trailer hitch.  One more critical mechanical component is the trailer hitch.  Hitches take a lot of stress and, over time, may develop problems, such as cracking in various places or stretching where they fit around the ball (bumper pull trailers).  The pin on 5th wheel hitches may get worn or bent or become loose.  Worn or damaged components should be replaced as soon as possible as a failure is likely to have catastrophic consequences for the trailer, the tow vehicle, and any other nearby objects or person.  The hitches on some trailers are welded to the tongue; some are bolted on.  If you're is bolted on, you can probably replace it yourself.  For best results use new bolts and nuts when  you replace the hitch.  If the hitch is welded on, it will have to be cut or ground off and a new one welded on.   Many trailer owners overlook the need to grease the ball when hooking up their trailers.  Often the ball on the receiver on the two vehicle is a nice, shiny chrome and greasing it makes it look ugly and you get dirty grease all over your pants whenever you happen to brush up against it.  However, greasing the ball will reduce wear so the ball and hitch last longer and it minimizes binding between the ball and the hitch when turning.  Sometimes an ungreased hitch will create an annoying squeak when pulling the trailer.  That squeak is a sign of excessive wear happening every time the ball moves inside the hitch.

About the only other mechanical parts on travel trailers are tongue jacks and stabilizing jacks.  Tongue jacks may be manually or electrically operated and usually need little maintenance other than cleaning and lubrication.  Be sure to periodically check the electrical connections on electric jacks.  A common problem is a loose or corroded ground wire.  Manual jacks usually are operated by  a crank and the handle on the crank may need cleaning and lubricating.  The gears inside the jack should be packed in grease.  Sometimes you can service these gears, sometimes you can't.  If the jack gets difficult to turn when there is no weight on it, try cleaning and lubricating the gears if you can get to them.   If you can't service them, about your only option is to replace the jack.  Not all trailers have stabilizing jacks but if yours doesn't, you may want to add them.  The most common stabilizer jacks I've seen on travel trailers are scissor jacks.  They are welded or bolted to frame.  You may only have two at the back (and use the tongue jack to level the front) or you may have them at all 4 corners.  They usually require little maintenance, other than cleaning and light lubrication on the moving parts (the screw itself and the hinge points for the scissors).  Some light weight tent trailers have simple stabilizers that drop down and lock into place.  They don't provide any lift for leveling, but will keep the trailer from tilting or bouncing.  If any tongue or stabilize jacks are bent they should be replaced.  Sometimes you can straighten bent parts to get by for a while, but having been bent and straightened they will have been weakened and are likely to bend again -- and again -- until they cannot be corrected or fail completely, usually causing additional and expensive damage to the trailer.

Trailers also need maintenance similar to your house.   The plumbing, heating and air conditioning, and electrical systems will experience the same kinds of wear and tear and need the same kind of preventative and restorative maintenance as the corresponding residential systems.  You will also need to pay attention to exterior finishes and weatherstripping.  Door and cabinet hinges and latches may need to be lubricated and adjusted from time to time.

Trailer on!

Motorhhome Mechanical Maintenance

Motorhomes have at least all of the mechanical components and systems of other motor vehicles, like your car or truck.  That being said, you will have to perform the same regular maintenance (oil changes, chassis, lube, brake service, collant service, etc) as are needed on you daily driver.   However, because motorhomes don't get as much use as our daily drivers, the maintenance intervals may be more likely to be determine by the calendar instead of the odometer.  Sitting idle can be one of the most detrimental things for a motor vehicle as lubricants and "soft"parts deteriorate over time.

Be sure to follow the maintenance schedule in  your vehicle owners manual.  Unless you are taking a long trip, you'll  probably need to schedule oil chances and chassis lubes based on time rather than mileage.  At the very least you should change the oil and lube the chassis at the beginning of each season.  It is also a very good idea to change the oil at the end of the season before you put it into storage for the winter.    That means you could sometimes log zero miles between the pre-storage oil change and the start of season oil change.  Why would  you need to do that?  Well, you should be running the engine at least a few minutes each month while it is in storage but even without that,  the oil in the crankcase will absorb some contaminates left behind from before the oil was changed and moisture can accumulate during storage and affect the oil.  Always install a new oil filter when  you change the oil.  If you do the oil change yourself, examine the old oil for possible problems:  metal shavings, moisture, antifreeze, or a burned smell.  Metal shavings sometimes show up in new vehicles as a result of left overs from the manufacturing process but in older engines they are a sign of internal problems and excessive wear.  Moisture may just be from condensation during storage but antifreeze indicates a coolant leak into the engine.    You can purchase chemical test kits to test your oil for antifreeze.  The most common problem is leaking head gasket but it could also come from cracks in the head or the block.  A burned smell indicates the engine has been overheating.  An engine can overheat from internal resistance enough to scorch the oil without ever raising the coolant temperature enough to be reflected on the temperature gauge or to activate the "idiot light".  If you find and evidence of problems you should seek to have them diagnosed and corrected before they can cause further damage.  Chassis lube should be performed together with each oil change.  Be sure you can identify and access all the lubrication points if you are doing this yourself or take it to a qualified specialist.

Air filters should be checked whenever you change the oil or more frequently if the vehicle is being operated in dusty conditions.  Dirty, clogged filters should be replaced.  Clogged filters negatively affect performance and fuel economy.  Replacement paper filters are inexpensive and are easy to change.  An alternative for increase performance is to install a K&N reusable air filter.  These are oil-charged and can be cleaned and reused over and over.  They also are less restrictive than ordinary paper filters, increasing the flow of air into the engine and improving performance.

Fuel filters should be inspected and replaced per the vehicle maintenance schedule.  A clogged fuel filter may cause fuel starvation, decreasing both performance and fuel economy.  Many large vehicles have more than one fuel filter, so be sure to locate and replace all the filters.  There may be a small filter in line near the engine and another one back near the fuel tank.  Some filters are internal to the fuel tank and therefore are impossible to inspect and difficult and expensive to change.

Check the coolant in the radiator.  If it is low there may be a leak that needs correcting.  Typical places for leaks are radiator hoses, heater hoses, heater cores, and the radiator itself.   Correct any leaks and top off with the proper coolant.  If there is any sign of oil in the radiator there is internal engine damage, such as crack in the head or block, that is allowing oil to be forced into the cooling system.   Here again you can purchase chemical test kits to detect engine gases that can contaminate coolant without visual signs.  Rusty coolant should be drained and the system flushed and refilled with new coolant. Some cooling system leaks can be temporarily cured by adding stop leak to the radiator.  However, anything that can plug leaks can also plug the radiator core so it is better to have the leaks properly repaired.  Clogged radiators can sometimes be "rodded out" to restore normal flow.  This consists of removing the tanks from top and bottom of the radiator and shoving rods through the tubes in the core to remove debris.   Then the tanks must be re-soldered to the clean core.  This whole process can only be done by competent professionals.

Motorhome transmissions undergo a lot more stress than the one in your family car.   The size and weight of the motorhome are the major factor but it may also be affected by towing a dinghy or a trailer.  You will want to keep a close eye on the transmission fluid.  Automatic transmission fluid should be a deep reddish color.  If it is brown or black or smells burned, the transmission  has been overheating and is in danger of failing.   Check the fluid level when the transmission is warm (vehicle has been driven at least a few miles), with the transmission in PARK and the engine idling.  If it is low, add fluid to bring it up between the marks on the dipstick.  Sometimes if I need to add fluid I will use Lucas transmission additive instead of plain transmission fluid.  The Lucas product contains additives to reduce friction and to treat seals and gaskets to keep them pliable and working well.  If you use additives, be sure to follow the manufacturer's guidelines for how much fluid to replace with their product.

Wheels and tires.   Check tire pressure before each trip and, preferably, every morning before hitting the road.  When you stop for gas, lightly touch each tire to see how hot they're getting.  All the tires can get pretty hot on a hot day, but if one tire is hotter than the others, it may be under inflated or there may be some abnormal resistance, such as a sticking break or a bad wheel bearing.   Inflate your tires according to the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations or the the maximum pressure on the sidewall.  For even better pressure settings, have each wheel weighed at a truck scale and use tire weight inflation chart to match the tire pressure to the actual load on each tire.  Over inflation will cause excessive wear in the center of the tread and usually the reduction in surface area in contact with the road will make the vehicle feel squirrelly and ride rougher than normal.  Under inflation will cause excessive wear on both outside edges and cause the tire to overheat and the vehicle to feel sluggish.  Turning the front wheels when stopped may be harder and you might hear tire squeal on turns.   Excessive wear on just one outside edge indicates an alignment problem.  Cupping of tires indicates an out-of-balance condition.  When inspecting your wheels and tires, be sure to check the lug nuts and look for any damage to the wheels.   Damage maybe in the form of dents that come from impact with obstacles or cracking from vibration.  Loose lug nuts might be indicated by a shiny ring behind the nut even if the nut feels tight.  At the very least check the tightness of all lug nuts periodically using your lug wrench.  For an even better check and added peace of mind, check the lug nuts using a torque wrench to be sure they are properly tightened.  Check with your local mechanic or tire shop if you can't find the torque specs in you owner's manual.

Wheel bearings.  The rear wheel bearings on most vehicles are lubricated by oil from the differential.    Front wheel bearings require grease and should be checked and service at least once a year.  You have to remove the hub to get to the wheel bearings.  Once you have the bearing out, inspect it for wear, contamination, and loose or missing balls.  If there are loose or missing balls, replace the bearing.  Inspect the race (the part the bearing rides on in the hub).  If it is rough or shows other signs of wear, it may also need to be replaced.  Usually you can press or drive the old race out and press in a new one.  If that doesn't work,  you will have to replace the hub.  If the old bearing is serviceable, clean it with solvent and dry it thoroughly.  Then pack it with wheel bearing grease.  You can buy a tool to pack bearings.  It consists of pair of shallow cones that clamp on the sides of the bearing and has a grease fitting through which you force grease with a grease gun.  The old mechanics standby method of packing wheel bearings doesn't required any tools, just your bare hands.  Put a dollop of grease on your non-dominant hand.  Hold one edge of the bearing with the wide side down in your dominant hand.  Press the bearing down into the grease until it squeezes out the top side of the bearing.  Then rotate the bearing to put grease into the next segment.  Continue until the entire bearing has been filled with grease.  When reinstalling the hub, tighten the axle nut to the torque specified for your vehicle.  It it is too tight it will put extra  pressure on the bearing and cause excessive wear and over heating.  If it is too loose the bearing will rattle and wear unevenly and the wheel may wobble.  The axle nut has a slotted cover through which a cotter pin is inserted through a hole in the end of the axle to prevent the nut from spinning as the wheel turns.  Always use a new cotter pin.  The old one will have been weakened by bending and unbending during installation and removal and might fail.

Air conditioners.   Many motorhomes are equipped with automotive dash air conditioners.  There is little owner maintenance associated with these systems other than to make sure the condenser (looks like a small radiator in front of the radiator) is clean, that the fan belt is in good condition and properly adjusted, and that the clutch on the compressor goes on and off as you turn the A/C on and off.  Testing and refilling the coolant in the system requires special equipment and training.

Belts and hoses.  Belts and hoses are made of rubber and are subject to deterioration over time as well as wear and tear from use.  Inspect the fan belts to be sure they aren't frayed or show signs of slipping (a slick, high gloss on the side of the belt that contacts the pulleys).  Check to see if they are properly adjusted.  You can usually adjust a belt by loosening one of the accessories it drives, like the alternator, power steering pump, or air conditioning compressor, pushing the accessory to tighten the belt (you might need some leverage such a a large screw driver or small crow bar to do this), and then re-tightening the mounting bolts for the accessory.  Any frayed, cracked or badly stretched fan built should be replaced.  There may be multiple fan belts.  Sometimes they are simply redundant or added safety but usually there are different belts for different accessories.  Be sure to inspect and adjust all the belts.  Many newer engines have a serpentine belt instead of fan belts.  Serpentine belts are wider and flatter than regular fan belts and the inside of the belt has rubber teeth that fit into corresponding teeth on the pulleys or sprockets.  Serpentine belts weave around wrapping around several pulleys on the front of the engine.   If your vehicle has a serpentine belt instead of fan belts and it is damaged, it will have to be replaced.  There will be a tensioner that holds the belt tight.  It usually has notch  or square slot to fit a 1/2" ratchet to move the tensioner so the belt can be removed.  It also has to be moved to install the new belt.  Unless the tensioner is damaged, it should automatically maintain the proper tension on the serpentine belt.  Check all the clamps on radiator and heater hoses.  These are common points where leakage occurs and can usually be corrected by tightening the clamp (if it is a screw type clamp that can be tightened).  Crimp clamps may have to be replaced.  Make sure the leak is from the end of the hose and not around the clamp where over tightening may have weakened or cut into the hose.  Heater hoses often leak at the connections and often there is enough slack to cut off the damaged end and reinstall it without having to replace the entire hose.   If the hose is hard and brittle it will have to be replaced.  After checking the clamps on the radiator hoses, squeeze them where you can reach them to see if you can feel any weak spots.  Those with  internal wire reinforcing will be difficult to test this way, but plain rubber hoses often have soft spots you can feel.   When you find one with soft spots, replace it before it ruptures and allows the coolant to escape and cause the engine to overheat.

The engines for on board generators required the same kind of regular service as the vehicle engine:  change oil and filter, check and, if necessary, replace air and fuel filters.  The schedule for the generator motor is normally done according to hours on the meter but it is always a good idea to service it at least once a year regardless of low use.  Check spark plugs.  If burned or crusted, clean or replace, being sure to set the gap to the proper measurement.  Most RV generators are air cooled.  But, if yours is liquid cooled, inspect the coolant, hoses, and radiator as you would the vehicle cooling system.

Some motorhomes are equipped with hydraulic or electric leveling jacks.  The jacks themselves need to be inspected, cleaned, and lubricated.  The hydraulic fluid level needs to be checked and proper hydraulic fluid added if it is found to be low.  DO NOT use regular motor oil!  Check all the electrical connections and clean an tighten as necessary.  Inspect all the hydraulic lines and fittings.  Loose fittings should be carefully tightened, damage or leaking lines should be replaced.

Motorhomes also need maintenance similar to your house.   The plumbing, heating and air conditioning, and electrical systems will experience the same kinds of wear and tear and need the same kind of preventitive and restorative maintenance as the corresponding residential systems.  You will also need to pay attention to exterior finishes and weatherstripping.

Motor  on!