Boats, like any other piece of equipment, require regular maintenance. The maintenance required will depend on the type of boat and the type of equipment onboard. Boat and engine manufacturers will provide required maintenance schedules in their owner's manuals as will most other major equipment providers.
Most boats will have some kind of motor. Even many sailboats have an outboard or even inboard auxiliary motor for maneuvering in the marina and dealing with lack of wind. Motors typically have fuel, air, and, unless they are 2-strokes, oil filters that need to be changed regularly. All controls need to be regularly inspected, cleaned, and lubricated. 2-stroke engines are prone to fouling spark plugs so the plug(s) should be inspected and cleaned or replaced as necessary. Failure to perform required maintenance will invalidate most warranties and will likely lead to performance problems and even premature engine failure. Propellers need to be inspected regularly to make sure they are secure and free from debris that could hamper operation. Ropes and fishing line often get wrapped around propellers and they can accumulate marine growths when left in the water. Anything that interferes with the rotation of the propeller or the movement of the propeller through the water (such as algae or barnacles) will affect performance and could lead to excess engine wear or total propeller failure.
Canoes, kayaks, and other human powered craft don't have motorized mechanical components but still need regular care. They need to be regularly inspected for leaks or any signs of damage or deterioration that might lead to problems on the water. Sometimes that includes caulking seams and repainting hulls. It might also mean sanding and refinishing or repairing handles of oars and paddles. Oar locks and any other moving parts may need lubrication. It should always include a review and inspection of necessary safety equipment. Even canoes and kayaks should carry personal flotation devices for everyone one board and are often required to have at least one throwable flotation device plus a throw rope for rescuing someone who has fallen overboard.
All boats need to have their hulls maintained. Trailerable boats can be cleaned every time they are pulled out of the water, usually at least each winter if not after every trip. Boats kept in the water can sometimes be cleaned by divers while the boats are still in the water but will still need to be pulled out, thoroughly cleaned, and repainted every so often. Boat paint, especially bottom paint, is very different from house paint. It is formulated to help prevent algae buildup and is often ablative in nature so various kinds of debris that might otherwise attach to the hull in the water will fall off. The frequency of bottom painting depends on the type, quality, and amount of paint on the boat to start with and the water conditions to which it is exposed. Salt water tends to be harder on bottom paint than fresh water and heavy infestations of barnacles, mollusks, and algae will shorten paint life. Of course any physical contact with rocks or sand, such as beaching a boat, will also wear the paint faster.
Maintaining the appearance of your boat does more than just make it look good. Regular cleaning and proper surface treatment lets you identify many problems before they become serious. If you notice soft spots on the deck you probably have some deterioration of the wooden core used on fiberglass boats. Surface maintenance procedures will depend on what your boat is made of. Fiberglass boats usually have a gelcoat that is very durable and can be updated or painted over if it begins to craze as it ages. Wooden boats are usually painted or varnished and may need to be sanded down and refinished when the paint or varnish gets damaged or worn. Aluminum boats usually just need to be cleaned but an occasional polishing will renew their appearance. Keeping surfaces clean, regardless of the underlying structure, helps prevent wear. Dirt can accelerate the affects of fading. I knew a car painter who would guarantee his clear coat as long as the owners washed their cars at least once every two weeks. The build up of dirt magnified the effects of sunlight and quickly destroyed the clear coat if not kept clean. Keeping up the appearance of your boat will add to your enjoyment and most likely add to the resale value when it comes time to sell it or trade it in.
There are seams and joints between sections, windows and/or accessories on many boats. Each of these is a potential point of leaks and should be regularly inspected and resealed as necessary. A common source of leaks on any kind of boat with a cabin is the joint between the deck and the hull. Walking on the deck and the pounding of waves on the hull often loosens these joints. Boats with inboard motors will have places where the drive shaft passes through the hull and these require special attention and should be repacked regularly to avoid the development of leaks. Many boats have "sea valves" that either let water out of of into the boat for various legitimate purposes. Any thru-the-hull device is a possible point of failure and should be regularly inspected so it closes properly and sealed so it doesn't leak when it is closed.
Many boats have a sliding companionway at the entrance to the cabin. These sliding doors should normally be water resistant. If there are signs of leakage, look for worn or damaged seals or see if there is a way to add weatherstripping. If all else fails you may want to place a tarp over the companionway slide when the boat is not in use to prevent rain instrusion. Companionway slides and the surfaces they ride on get worn over time, making them hard to slide. You can sometimes repair the damage using UWMD or HDPE tape. Put a strip underneath the edges of the companionway where it meets the deck. If the edges of the companionway slide itself are worn you might wrap the edges with UHMD or HDPE tape. Sometimes just applying a good dry silicon lubricant to the mating surfaces will solve the problem. Other times you might need to sand rough sliding surfaces and refinish them to reduce friction
All hatches and compartments should be inspected for water leaks on a regular basis. When leaks are found the seals and weatherstripping should be repaired or replaced. Use weatherstripping designed specifically for each hatch if possible. If not available, you might be able to adapt some form of ordinary, adhesive household weatherstripping from your hardware store or home center. Warped or swollen hatch boards can sometimes be straightened or planed to fit better. Replacing wooden hatch boards with marine starboard is often a relatively inexpensive alternative to buying new and costly teak hatch boards and the starboard looks good, requires little maintenance, and is durable and waterproof. Our Macgregor 25 has hatch boards made of something like wood-finished masonite. The edges where the two sections of the removable hatch boards had gotten wet from rain and had softened and swollen and no longer fit together. I cut away the bulk of the damaged material using a razor knife, then used a fine-tooth file to reshape the mating surfaces. I applied clear polyurethane over the entire surface both inside and out, taking special pains to soak the exposed edges. Once the polyurethane dried I was able to again file the now hardened mating surface to get a really nice fit. Hopefully saturating the edges with polyurethane will help prevent a repeat of the swelling that damaged the mating edges and made the hatch boards difficult to slide in and out of position.
The standing rigging and running rigging on sailboats should be inspected at least once a year. Standing rigging includes the stays and shrouds (cables that support the mast(s) and spar(s)) as well as the masts, booms, and spars themselves. Running rigging comprises the ropes used as halyards to raise the sails, as sheets to control the sails, and as other lines and lifts including docking lines. Worn or frayed lines should be replaced. Of course the masts and spars should also be inspected for damage or signs of wear. Docking lines, which tend to get soaked, may also begin to rot. Stress cracks are one sign of a failing mast, boom, or spar. Pulleys, clamps, and other hardware that is part of the standing and running rigging should be inspected and adjusted as necessary. Pulleys may need a bit of waterproof lubrication occasionally. Pulleys that don't move freely or make a squealing noise when used definitely need attention. If lubrication doesn't solve the problem they should be replaced as soon as possible. Life lines and stanchions should be solid and without any frayed or broken lines or connections. Loose or damaged stanchions should be properly repaired or replaced. Sails should be inspected and cleaned or repaired as necessary. You probably wont be able to tell if the sails are stretched out and need to be replaced until they are hoisted and filled with air so always check your sail shape when you are sailing. Sometimes stretched sails can be repaired by a sail maker but usually once they are stretched out they will have to be replaced to maintain good performance. Worn sails may also be subject to failure in use possibly causing you to lose control or be stranded.
Sails, of course, should be inspected each time they are used. Any tears or other points of wear should be repaired as soon as possible to prevent the damage from spreading. Pay attention to the crispness of your sail when handling it and the shape when it is in use. Sails that are floppy to touch are usually worn and stretched and should probably be replaced. Sails whose shape in use shows excessive billowing have also reached the end of their useful lives and should be replaced. Sometimes older sails can be repair and re-tuned by a competent sail maker but usually you will have to find matching used sails in good condition or buy new sails.
Docking lines and cleats should be inspected often. Lines showing fraying, rot, or wear should be replaced. Loose cleats should be properly anchored and sealed. Damaged or broken cleats should be replaced. Annual inspection might be a good time to install additional cleats if you have been thinking about doing so. Extra cleats give you more options for securing your boat at the dock. Bow and stern cleats are used to hold a boat centered in a slip. Proper docking often requires the used of spring lines to keep the boat from moving forward and backward in the slip. I've seen people using the same cleats for docking lines and spring lines. It can be done but having separate cleats for the spring lines midships makes hooking things up much easier, is easier to adjust, and is generally more secure.
Regular scrubbing of the decks and hull above the waterline is a good way to keep a boat looking good. It is also essential to inspecting the condition of the deck and hull. Soft spots likely mean rot beneath the surface that should be repaired as soon as practical. Stress fractures or cracks may be visible that may help identify structural problems so they can be repaired before they lead to a catastrophic failure. Gelcoat on fiberglass boats can sometimes be restored using special cleaners. If all else fails you may need to redothe Gelcoat or paint the topside. Be sure to use non-skid paint on the portions of the deck where you will normally be walking. You can add non-skid materials to any Topside paint to match or complement the deck paint color. I like the idea of rubber-based anti-skid additives like Softsand. They work well and are easier on bare feet than the coarse grit (sand or crushed walnut shells) used in other non-skid additives. I have also had really good success adding a product called Clear-grip for anti-skid protection on my boat deck. It provides a non-slip surface that isn't gritty or harsh like typical sand or crushed walnut additives.
Equipment in the cabins of boats will very likely depend on the type of boat, the owner's preferences, and how the boat it used. Some common facilities include galley and head fixtures such as stoves, iceboxes, and toilets. Many boats have radios and electronic navigation equipment that need to be regularly tested. Stoves, iceboxes, and sanitation facilities should be thoroughly cleaned at least annually, more if so indicated in their respective owner's manuals or if they get high use. Check your bilge pumps. Every boat should have at least a manual bilge pump and many larger boats have electrically or battery operated pumps to expel unwanted water from inside the hull. Many boaters keep a bucket handy for bailing out the boat as needed.
Electrical systems should be inspected to make sure there are no loose or corroded connections or frayed wires. Batteries should be inspected and, if necessary, topped off with distilled water. Corrosion is a very common problem in a marine environment, especially in salt water. Loose or damaged connections should be promptly repaired to ensure proper operation of electrical systems and to prevent fires. Dim or flickering lights are one obvious indicator of bad wiring. Pay special attention to navigational lights to make sure they are properly installed and functioning correctly. Failure of navigational lights could lead to collisions if you are out on the water after dark.
Not all boats have plumbing systems, but those that do should be inspected and any loose or damaged connections or fittings or faulty pipes, tanks, and fixtures repaired or replaced. Pay special attention to any thru-hull fittings that can allow water to seep into the boat.
Safety equipment should be inventoried and inspected. Safety equipment should include personal flotation devices (PFDs, i.e., life vests), throwable floation devices (cushions and life saver rings), horns, whistles, flares, and lights (signal lights and navigation lights. Flags are also a common safety feature. Sailboats may require "day shapes" that are used to alert other boaters the sailboat is at anchor or under mechanical auxiliary power. All boats should carry a proper distress flag for emergencies. All safety devices should be in good condition and readily available to the crew.
Keep afloat!
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