Fall has fell...

Well, almost.  September 21, which is only a few days away, marks the official beginning of fall on the calendar.  Don't know about where you are, but where I am in western Oregon now, it is beginning to feel like fall.  Unusually hot summer temperatures have faded and we're headed into Oregon's famous rainy season.  My Dad used to say there were only three seasons in Oregon:  Spring, Summer, and Rain--- and it rained in the Spring and the Summer!  It is about time to think about putting our RV and camping equipment away for the season.  See End of Season for details about winterizing your RV and preparing you and your other equipment for storage.

If you live where you will get freezing temperatures you will need to winterize your RV and make sure there is nothing in your tent camping storage that will be damaged by freezing.  Tents and sleeping bags should be clean and dry before storage.  Sleeping bags should not be rolled tightly during extended storage as it will crush the loft and destroy their ability to keep you warm.  Open them up and hang them or pack them loosely.

If you're feeling adventurous you might venture out for a few more outings before the really cold weather hits.  If you do you will want to take weather conditions into consideration and bring along warm clothes.  Be sure your RV has plenty of propane and that the furnace is working properly.  A tent heater might let you extend your camping season a bit, but be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully to avoid any problems.  Tent heaters can cause fires so make sure they are kept away from tent walls, sleeping bags, clothing, etc that might catch fire.  Tent heater even "indoor" catalytic heaters that allegedly give off no toxic fumes, will still consume oxygen so make sure you have adequate ventilation  to avoid suffocation!

A trick I learned for sleeping on snow or cold ground is to unroll and unzip a couple of old sleeping bags.  Put one under the sleeping bag(s) you'll be sleeping in (I like it between the bag and the sleeping pad) and the other one over the top.  If you are sharing your tent with a companion, put the second sleeping bag so it covers both sleeping bags.  That way any heat that escapes from your primary sleeping bags is caught by the top cover and you effectively share body heat to keep you both warm all night.

If you are camping in desert areas where night time temperatures are still warm, you may want to add or include a battery powered tent fan. In fall we sometimes get what are called "Indian Summers", a few days of unusually warm weather, typically in October or November.  We recently spent a night in the Virgin River Gorge in northern Arizona and it was 106º around 7:30 pm and didn't really cool down enough to sleep until around 3:00 am!  We used a spray bottle liberally to cool both us directly and the little bit of breeze we got through the screens but a battery operated fan would have been very welcome.  It is definitely on the list for next time!

I've always found it more difficult to keep cool than to keep warm.  After all, you can always add layers to keep warm but there is only so much covers or clothing you can remove to cool down!

Fall camping is cool!

2 Wheeled Bug Out Vehicles?

 When we think of bug out vehicles we usually think of trucks, SUVs, or RVs that can carry us and a lot of survival equipment.  You may see highly equipped, very expensive, 4WD all terrain vehicles advertised as bug out vehicles.  Most of them are way beyond what the average camper or prepper could ever afford -- or would ever need for that matter.  Moreover, they may not even be very useful, depending on where you are, the nature of the disaster, and whether these humongous vehicles will be able to fit through places restricted by devastation.  However, there are other options that might be more versatile.   For example, I keep my dirt bikes ready to use at any time.  If roads are impassable due to an earthquake or flooding, I can use my dirt bike to get to safety through or around all kinds of terrain that would stop just about any other kind of vehicle.  It can also be used as a messenger vehicle during a local emergency where normal roads are impassable.  If you prefer an ATV or side-by-side, it too could provide options to go places where a normal street legal vehicle can't.  You' might want to find a way to attach some kind of hitch to the frame of the dirt bike or ATV.  Towing a trailer will limit some of the places you can go but it will give you the ability to carry a lot more survival gear with you.  You might also consider a luggage rack or saddle bags for extra carrying capacity.

An option seldom considered is a bicycle.  Too often we think of them only as toys or exercise machines, but in many parts of the world they are still a primary means of transportation.  Bicycles have several advantages.  They are not terribly expensive (unless you go for fancy road racers or competition level mountain bikes), they require no fuel other than the rider, they are light weight so you can carry them through terrain too rough to ride through.  A good bike could be your best bet for escaping an unsafe situation.  You don't see too many folks pulling trailers with bicycles (except in third world countries), but it is possible and would increase your cargo capacity.  If you are in average physical condition you should be able to pull up to 600 lbs on flat ground, which gives you considerably more room to bring along what you need than you'd have in even the biggest back pack.   The recommended back pack weight is usually about half the weight of the person carrying it, which will significantly limit what you can carry safely.  The capacity of a trailer over hills and rough terrain would, of course, be less than the 600 lbs over flat ground, but still much more than you could comfortably carry on your back.  If you decide to include a bicycle in your survival gear, the best bet would be a mountain bike, with off road tires and multiple gears.  Racing bikes are great on pavement, but the narrow tires wouldn't handle damaged roads or going off road if necessary very well.  A cruiser style bike will have tires capable of handling more types of terrain but usually are only one speed so they wouldn't be as good for negotiating hills or heavy loads.  As with a dirt bike, you will probably have to engineer your own trailer hitch if you do decide to pull a small trailer or you might want to add a luggage rack or saddle bags.   The little baby carriers you see towed behind bicycles might make a good starting place for bicycle hitches and trailers.  Bicycle baskets that attach to the handle bars can carry some things.

Saddlebags are another option for carrying extra gear on a bicycle.  Mounting beside the rear wheel puts the center of gravity of the bags and their contents fairly low so they don't affect handling as much as a handle bar basket or even wearing a back pack.

You will need a pretty small trailer to use behind a dirt bike or bicycle.  There are some trailers designed to pull behind ATVs and some for street bikes that might be a starting point.  Even a little garden cart designed to be used with riding mowers and garden tractors might work, but they usually aren't designed to be particularly light weight.  You might also consider building your own trailer from scratch.  The trailer kits you can find at places like Harbor Freight will usually be too big and too heavy for pulling behind a bike (pedal power or motorized).  You might make one from bicycle or tricycle parts or even use a child's "Radio Flyer" style wagon.  Some of these are available with big, soft, all-terrain tires designed for garden use and would adapt well for off road towing.

You will  need to limit the size of the trailer for several reasons.  First up, you don't want it to be too heavy.  The lighter the trailer, the more gear you can carry and the easier it will be to pull.  Secondly, you want something that you can pull through small spaces without difficulty.  In really difficult terrain you might even have to pull the trailer by hand or even be able to lift it over obstacles.  You will also want to make sure it is sturdy, dependable, and easy to maintain.

I have seen neat little tent trailers to pull behind ATVs that would even provide shelter, but you will sacrifice some cargo capacity if you choose one of these and they would probably be too big and heavy to reasonable tow behind a bicycle, but you might make it work behind a motorcycle.  If you need or want to be able to camp along the way, an easy, light weight, and inexpensive alternative is to toss in a small tent or maybe just a tarp you could toss over you and the trailer to protect you from hot sun or bad weather.

In a pinch you could rig a travois behind a bicycle or dirt bike to carry your gear or even transport an injured person.  You need a couple of poles lashed together at one end to attach to your bike with a tarp, blanket, or net stretched between the other two, spread out, ends to carry your load.  The advantages of a travois are primarily the ease of construction from readily available materials and the lack of moving parts that could fail.  The disadvantages include increased resistance in dragging them and fairly rapid wear on the trailing ends.   But they might be a very good option in an emergency for transporting a load or injured person a short distance.

Speaking of bicycles, I have even seen some three-wheeled rigs with a camper attached,  looking kind of like kind of pedal-powered Class C motorhome.  While those might provide the ultimate comfort for bugging out, do their height , width, and weight, they wouldn't be very practical on damaged roads or rough terrain and I, for one, would not want to try to pedal one of those up -- or down! -- much of a hill!  Likewise, there are custom made motorcycle based Class C motorhomes that would provide many of the features of a larger motorhome as a Disaster Recovery Vehicle, but might have greater range due to lower fuel consumption and, their smaller size might let them go places larger vehicles won't fit.

Here is a slick Youtube video of 15 Minicampers and Motorcylce Campers that might be useful for recreational outings as well as for an emergency bug-out.  Many of them include quite a bit of cargo capacity for carrying survival essentials.

One of the chief characteristics of survivalists is their ability to innovate.  Be innovative in your preparations as well as in your survival techniques.

Think outside the box!

Camping Equipment Maintenance

Just because your camping and/or recreational equipment doesn't have motors or gear boxes it doesn't mean you're off the hook for routine maintenance.  Mechanical equipment, like RVs, camping trailers, boats, and OHVs usually have rigorous maintenance schedules.  Tent camping avoids many of those time consuming and expensive processes, but there are still some routine maintenance tasks that should be performed fairly regularly on basic camping equipment to enure proper function and longevity.

Tent campers may not have to deal with the mechanical maintenance tasks that those who choose mechanized or motorized modes of travel and recreation do, but there are still some things we need to do routinely to keep our gear and equipment in top shape.  Failure to maintain gear and equipment is a sure recipe for premature failure.  A couple of good times to do routine maintenance are when you are preparing for an outing and when you return and put you stuff back in storage.  Major inspection and repairs are often done when you put your stuff into storage at the end of a season and when you get it out again for the next round of fun.

Tent maintenance.  Maintaining tents mostly consists of cleaning them and inspecting them for leaks or tears and making necessary repairs.  Keeping your tent clean is a simple but essential task.  Spilled foods, bird droppings, sap, and stains may attract insects or varmints that will damage the fabric.  Dirt left on the floor can grind away and weaken the fibers.  A tent that is rolled up and stored wet can mildew and rot.  That not only makes it unpleasant, but can destroy the fabric.  Always take time to sweep out your tent before rolling it up.  You may have to roll it up wet sometimes, but if you do, unroll it and let it dry out at home before you put it back into storage.  Small tears can  usually be sewed up by hand and sealed with seam sealer.  If caught in time making repairs will avoid catastrophic failure that would force you to send it out for repairs or buy a new tent.  Temporary repairs for small cuts and tears can be made in the field using duct tape or some kind of waterproof sealing tape.  These should be properly sewed and sealed when you get home and before your next outing.  Nylon repair tape is convenient way to make both temporary and permanent repairs.  It is often self-adhesive but stitching is always more secure.  Another important part of tent maintenance is cleaning.  You should always sweep out your tent before taking it down and brush away debris from the fabric as you roll or fold it up for transport and storage.  Clean the screens and windows and the zippers.   You can lubricate zippers with a number of ordinary household products but I like to use a commercial produce like Zip-Ease.  Household products you can try include a graphite pencil, crayons, candle wax, Chapstick, Vaseline, WD-40 and silicone lubricants.  Aways test any lubricant on a small, hidden place if possible to make sure it won't stain the tent fabric.  When using sprays, such as WD-40 or silicone, use the tube style nozzle and apply it sparingly.   When using a Crayon, match the color to the color of the zipper.  If your tent is wet or even damp from rain or dew, be sure to unpack it and let it dry out before you put it in storage.  When using liquid or spray lubricants, use dry lube instead of oily products if possible.  Inspect the roof and sides for soiling from birds or tree sap and remove such deposits as soon as practical.  Avoid putting your tent into storage with soiled spots.  Reactions between the contamination and the fabric may stain, rot, or weaken the fabric.  Bird crap can usually be removed satisfactorily with soap and water.  Sap may require a stronger solvent such as Goo Gone.  Some folks use turpentine to remove tree sap but it may damage tent fabrics so it would be wise to test it on something non-essential (like the tent peg bag) before using it on your tent.  I've even heard of using mayonnaise to remove sap, but then you have to remove the mayonnaise!

Sleeping bag maintenance.  Unless your sleeping bag is badly soiled or smells bad all you normally need to do is hang it out for a few hours to let it air out and dry before putting it away.  Mild odors might be controlled with a fabric freshener like Fabreze.  It would be a good thing if you have room to store your sleeping bags hanging.  It avoids compressing the fill.  Tightly rolling your sleeping bag may let you store it in a smaller space, but it will destroy the loft and it will no longer keep you warm.  If you can't or don't want to hang your sleeping bag, fold it carefully and store it in a tub or box that lets it remain loose.  If you detect a light odor you might try spraying the bag lightly with a fabric freshener such as Fabreze.  Be sure to let it dry before rolling or folding it for storage.  Badly stained or awful smelling sleeping bags should be taken to your local dry cleaners for cleaning.  It isn't cheap, but its way less than a new sleeping bag!  Some sleeping bags may indicate they can be machine washed, but I am somewhat skeptical.  I had a cold weather parka, with construction similar to a sleeping bag and with a label claiming it could be machine washed.  Just one washing virtually ruined the jacket.  The fill was so badly bunched up there were many places where there was no fill at all, just the inner and outer layers of nylon.

Gas stove maintenance.  Gas stoves, whether white gas or propane, are usually quite reliable, even without a lot of preventive maintenance.  But that doesn't mean you can or should ignore them.  Be sure to clean up any cooking spills after each use.  Clean the burners and the bottom of the stove.  Be sure to clean the openings in the burners.  If there are places where a spill has clogged some of the openings, there won't be any flame there, creating a cold spot in your cooking surface.  Gas stoves that use liquid fuel have a pump built into the fuel tank to create the pressure needed to feed gas to the burners.  These pumps usually use a leather washer which can dry out and become ineffective.  A drop or two of oil (just about any oil, even motor oil will do) will usually restore flexibility.  If that doesn't work you may have to rebuild the pump.   Rebuild kits are available at most sporting goods stores where the stoves are sold and cost from about $3.00 to $20.00.  The cheaper kits usually just replace the washer; more expensive versions often replace the many of the hard parts as well.  You might need the higher priced kit if you have lost the knob on the pump.  If the pump is working fine and there is fuel in the tank but the stove still doesn't work, it probably has a bad generator.  This is a little brass tube through which the liquid gasoline travels and is converted to a gas before entering the burners.  Generators are fairly easy to replace and only cost around $10.

Gas lanterns.  Gas lanterns may use gasoline or propane.  Propane cylinders are pressurized.  You have to pressurize the fuel tank on gasoline lanterns using the pump built into the tank.  If the pump stops working, a drop or two of oil may soften the leather gasket and restore enough flexibility to get it working again.  If it is too badly worn it may have to be replaced.  Liquid fuel lanterns also have generators that an sometime go bad.  Just as with gas stoves, there are rebuild kits.  The kits for any given brand can usually be used on both stoves and lanterns so you shouldn't have to carry multiple rebuild kits.  The most frequent maintenance chore for gas lanterns is replacing the mantles.  The mantles are little sock-like mesh bags.  You have to remove or lift the globe of the lantern to replace the mantles.  There may be one or more mantles in each lantern depending on its size.  The mantles have a string threaded through the open end.  Slip the open end over the end of the flared tube inside the globe and tie it tightly in place with the string.  Then take a match or lighter and burn the silk mesh sock.  The ash that remains is heated white-hot when the lantern is lit.  Because the mantles are made of ash, they are quite fragile.  Bumping the lantern may cause them to crack or break and then they will no longer confine the gas and burn properly.  Always carry several replacement mantles with you when you're using a gas lantern.  Another routine task is cleaning the globe.  Always do this when the globe is cool.  Cleaning a hot globe may result in  burning your fingers or breaking the globe.  If the hot globe comes in contact with cold water or a cold cloth, it may crack or even shatter.  Carefully clean both the inside and outside of the glass globe before each trip and as often as needed when using the lantern -- when the globe is cool.  Cracked or broken globes should be replaced.  Most gas lanterns are  held together by a knurled nut at the top.  Make sure this nut is always snug but don't over tighten it.  Regularly check to see if the bail or handle is properly attached.  If it is loose and you try to pick it up, the lantern my slip off and fall.

Battery lanterns.  Battery lanterns are far easier to care and less fragile than gas lanterns.  They usually have plastic rather than glass globes.  But that doesn't mean they don't need some attention.   The same thing applies to flashlights.  You will want to check the condition of the batteries before each trip and either recharge the lantern or replace the batteries if the voltage is low.  You might want to put one of the batteries in backwards when you will be putting the lights into storage for a while to prevent battery drain.  Low batteries are likely to fail during extended storage, often leaking and damaging the light, so check the batteries before storing your lanterns or flashlights too.   Check the battery compartment for signs of leakages or contamination.  Carefully clean any yucky stuff out of the battery compartment paying special attention to the contacts the battery connects to.  They should always be clean and shiny.  You may need to clean the globe periodically too.  Since there is no soot or smoke inside, normally all you have to do is clean the outside.  Window cleaner, like Windex, usually works well but just to safe, check your owners' manual.  Some plastics may have special cleaning instructions.  Ordinary soap and water is usually safe for all surfaces.   Be sure not to rub too hard or too long in one place as it may scratch or burnish the surface and never rub them without some kind of liquid cleaner or the dust will scratch and dull the surface.  Badly scratched or cloudy globes might benefit from a multi-step plastic cleaner like those used for motorcycle windshields.  If that doesn't work you may have to replace the globe if you can find one or the entire lantern if you can't. You might check garage sales for options for replacement parts.

Camp chairs.  Camp chairs mostly just need to be cleaned once in awhile.  Some of the old style aluminum folding chairs used screws to hold the mesh to the frame.  If you have one of these you'll want to make sure all the screws are tight before each trip.  Cloth chairs like the popular "quad" chairs can be cleaned with soap and water, rinsed with water, and let dry.  Don't fold them up until they are dry. The mesh on folding aluminum chairs can also be cleaned with soap and water if badly soiled but if they're only dusty you might just blow them off with compressed air.   If the webbing is badly worn you can buy replacement kits to re-web aluminum chairs.  If you find your folding chairs are getting hard to open and close or they make squeaking sounds when you open and close them, you might want to put a little bit of lubricant on the pivot points.  Don't use a lot of oil because it will just collect dust and get on the fabric when the chair is closed up for storage.  A dry Teflon lubricant would be a good choice.  If you use a wet lubricant like WD-40, be sure to avoid spraying on too much.  You might even want to spray some in the cap and apply it with a little water color brush or Q-tip so you don't get too much in one place.  The legs on some chairs have caps or feet on the end.  These often get lost or damaged.  You may be able to purchase rubber cane tips to replace missing feet on round legs.  Missing caps may allow the legs to dig into the ground, letting the chair tip while you are sitting in it and damp soil trapped inside the feet may accelerate corrosion.

Knives and axes.  Inspect  your knives and axes.  Test the blades and makes sure they are clean and sharp.  Gently sand away any rust.  Coat the metal surfaces with a light oil.  Make sure handles are secure in axe heads and that the handles are smooth and in good condition.  You may sand rough wooden handles.  Rub wooden handles with linseed oil to protect them against moisture, make the comfortable to handled, and give the handle a nice "glow".  Dull tools are more dangerous and more difficult to use than sharp ones.  Sharpen blades as needed and use some kind of blade protector while the tools are in storage.  Shovels aren't as sensitive to needing sharp blades, but keeping them clean and appropriately sharp is a good idea.   A bit of WD-40 on the steel to prevent rust and some linseed oil on wooden handles will help keep them in top shape for the next outing.

Hiking sticks usually just need to be cleaned regularly,  but collapsible models might need a bit of lubrication.  Inspect the grips and repair or replace any that are loose or damaged.  Metal models should be checked to see if they have gotten bent and, if so, try to gently straighten them.  Wooden walking sticks might benefit from a light rubbing with linseed oil or a good furniture oil.

Other equipment.  Depending on what kind of recreational activities you normally participate in you may have other pieces of equipment that need your attention.  If you have an owners manual or instruction sheet, be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations.  Lacking specific guidelines, be sure to regularly clean and inspect each item and make repairs as needed.  Check the functionality of each item to make sure it is working right.  If it doesn't work right, examine it for damage.  A frequent cause of problems in anything with moving parts is contamination or lack of lubrication.  A little dry Teflon or even a modest application of WD-40 may work wonders.  Metal components of equipment may have gotten bent and you might be able to restore proper movement by straightening the bent part.  Slight bends can usually be successfully straightened but anything that has been kinked or cracked will probably have to be replaced before it fails catastrophically.  Anything that gets bent more than once will be weakened and should be replaced.  Check for and tighten any loose fasteners but take care not to over tighten them.  Over tightening can damage parts and interfere with proper movement.

Camp clothing should be washed and carefully stored until the next season.  You should also inspect your camp clothing and replace any missing buttons, repair loose seams or tears, or, if it is too badly damage to be salvage, discard and replace it.  Often fixing some loose buttons or stiching up a small tear will keep things in working condition for another season or two.

Keep it working!

Boat Maintenance

Boats, like any other piece of equipment, require regular maintenance.  The maintenance required will depend on the type of boat and the type of equipment onboard.  Boat and engine manufacturers will provide required maintenance schedules in their owner's manuals as will most other major equipment providers.

Most boats will have some kind of motor.  Even many sailboats have an outboard or even inboard auxiliary motor for maneuvering in the marina and dealing with lack of wind.  Motors typically have fuel, air, and, unless they are 2-strokes, oil filters that need to be changed regularly.  All controls need to be regularly inspected, cleaned, and lubricated. 2-stroke engines are prone to fouling spark plugs so the plug(s) should be inspected and cleaned or replaced as necessary.   Failure to perform required maintenance will invalidate most warranties and will likely lead to performance problems and even premature engine failure.  Propellers need to be inspected regularly to make sure they are secure and free from debris that could hamper operation.  Ropes and fishing line often get wrapped around propellers and they can accumulate marine growths when left in the water.  Anything that interferes with the rotation of the propeller or the movement of the propeller through the water (such as algae or barnacles) will affect performance and could lead to excess engine wear or total propeller failure.

Canoes, kayaks, and other human powered craft don't have motorized mechanical components but still need regular care.  They need to be regularly inspected for leaks or any signs of damage or deterioration that might lead to problems on the water.  Sometimes that includes caulking seams and repainting hulls.  It might also mean sanding and refinishing or repairing handles of oars and paddles.   Oar locks and any other moving parts may need lubrication.  It should always include a review and inspection of necessary safety equipment.  Even canoes and kayaks should carry personal flotation devices for everyone one board and are often required to have at least one throwable flotation device plus a throw rope for rescuing someone who has fallen overboard.

All boats need to have their hulls maintained.  Trailerable boats can be cleaned every time they are pulled out of the water, usually at least each winter if not after every trip.  Boats kept in the water can sometimes be cleaned by divers while the boats are still in the water but will still need to be pulled out, thoroughly cleaned, and repainted every so often.  Boat paint, especially bottom paint, is very different from house paint.  It is formulated to help prevent algae buildup and is often ablative in nature so various kinds of debris that might otherwise attach to the hull in the water will fall off.  The frequency of bottom painting depends on the type, quality, and amount of paint on the boat to start with and the water conditions to which it is exposed.  Salt water tends to be harder on bottom paint than fresh water and heavy infestations of barnacles, mollusks, and algae will shorten paint life.  Of course any physical contact with rocks or sand, such as beaching a boat, will also wear the paint faster.

Maintaining the appearance of your boat does more than just make it look good.   Regular cleaning and proper surface treatment lets you identify many problems before they become serious.  If you notice soft spots on the deck you probably have some deterioration of the wooden core used on fiberglass boats.  Surface maintenance procedures will depend on what your boat is made of.  Fiberglass boats usually have a gelcoat that is very durable and can be updated or painted over if it begins to craze as it ages.  Wooden boats are usually painted or varnished and may need to be sanded down and refinished when the paint or varnish gets damaged or worn.  Aluminum boats usually just need to be cleaned but an occasional polishing will renew their appearance.  Keeping surfaces clean, regardless of the underlying structure, helps prevent wear.  Dirt can accelerate the affects of fading.  I knew a car painter who would guarantee his clear coat as long as the owners washed their cars at least once every two weeks.   The build up of dirt magnified the effects of sunlight and quickly destroyed the clear coat if not kept clean.  Keeping up the appearance of your boat will add to your enjoyment and most likely add to the resale value when it comes time to sell it or trade it in.

There are seams and joints between sections, windows and/or accessories on many boats.  Each of these is a potential point of leaks and should be regularly inspected and resealed as necessary.  A common source of leaks on any kind of boat with a cabin is the joint between the deck and the hull.  Walking on the deck and the pounding of waves on the hull often loosens these joints.  Boats with inboard motors will have places where the drive shaft passes through the hull and these require special attention and should be repacked regularly to avoid the development of leaks.  Many boats have "sea valves" that either let water out of of into the boat for various legitimate purposes.  Any thru-the-hull device is a possible point of failure and should be regularly inspected so it closes properly and sealed so it doesn't leak when it is closed.

Many boats have a sliding companionway at the entrance to the cabin.   These sliding doors should normally be water resistant.  If there are signs of leakage, look for worn or damaged seals or see if there is a way to add weatherstripping.  If all else fails you may want to place a tarp over the companionway slide when the boat is not in use to prevent rain instrusion.  Companionway slides and the surfaces they ride on get worn over time, making them hard to slide.  You can sometimes repair the damage using UWMD or HDPE tape.  Put a strip  underneath the edges of the companionway where it meets the deck.  If the edges of the companionway slide itself are worn you might wrap the edges with UHMD or HDPE tape.  Sometimes just applying a good dry silicon lubricant to the mating surfaces will solve the problem.  Other times you might need to sand rough sliding surfaces and refinish them to reduce friction

All hatches and compartments should be inspected for water leaks on a regular basis.  When leaks are found the seals and weatherstripping should be repaired or replaced.  Use weatherstripping designed specifically for each hatch if possible.  If not available, you might be able to adapt some form of ordinary, adhesive household weatherstripping from your hardware store or home center.  Warped or swollen hatch boards can sometimes be straightened or planed to fit better.  Replacing wooden hatch boards with marine starboard is often a relatively inexpensive alternative to buying new and costly teak hatch boards and the starboard looks good, requires little maintenance, and is durable and waterproof.  Our Macgregor 25 has hatch boards made of something like wood-finished masonite.  The edges where the two sections of the removable hatch boards had gotten wet from rain and had softened and swollen and no longer fit together.  I cut away the bulk of the damaged material using a razor knife, then used a fine-tooth file to reshape the mating surfaces.  I applied clear polyurethane over the entire surface both inside and out, taking special pains to soak the exposed edges.  Once the polyurethane dried I was able to again file the now hardened mating surface to get a really nice fit.  Hopefully saturating the edges with polyurethane will help prevent a repeat of the swelling that damaged the mating edges and made the hatch boards difficult to slide in and out of position.

The standing rigging and running rigging on sailboats should be inspected at least once a year.   Standing rigging includes the stays and shrouds (cables that support the mast(s) and spar(s)) as well as the masts, booms, and spars themselves.  Running rigging comprises the ropes used as halyards to raise the sails, as sheets to control the sails, and as other lines and lifts including docking lines.  Worn or frayed lines should be replaced.  Of course the masts and spars should also be inspected for damage or signs of wear.  Docking lines, which tend to get soaked, may also begin to rot.  Stress cracks are one sign of a failing mast, boom, or spar.  Pulleys, clamps, and other hardware that is part of the standing and running rigging should be inspected and adjusted as necessary.  Pulleys may need a bit of waterproof lubrication occasionally.  Pulleys that don't move freely or make a squealing noise when used definitely need attention.  If lubrication doesn't solve the problem they should be replaced as soon as possible.   Life lines and stanchions should be solid and without any frayed or broken lines or connections.  Loose or damaged stanchions should be properly repaired or replaced.  Sails should be inspected and cleaned or repaired as necessary.  You probably wont be able to tell if the sails are stretched out and need to be replaced until they are hoisted and filled with air so always check your sail shape when you are sailing.  Sometimes stretched sails can be repaired by a sail maker but usually once they are stretched out they will have to be replaced to maintain good performance.  Worn sails may also be subject to failure in  use possibly causing you to lose control or be stranded.

Sails, of course, should be inspected each time they are used.  Any tears or other points of wear should be repaired as soon as possible to prevent the damage from spreading.  Pay attention to the crispness of your sail when handling it and the shape when it is in use.   Sails that are floppy to touch are usually worn and stretched and should probably be replaced.  Sails whose shape in use shows excessive billowing have also reached the end of their useful lives and should be replaced.  Sometimes older sails can be repair and re-tuned by a competent sail maker but usually you will have to find matching used sails in good condition or buy new sails.

Docking lines and cleats should be inspected often.  Lines showing fraying, rot, or wear should be replaced.  Loose cleats should be properly anchored and sealed.  Damaged or broken cleats should be replaced.  Annual inspection might be a good time to install additional cleats if you have been thinking about doing so.  Extra cleats give you more options for securing your boat at the dock.  Bow and stern cleats are used to hold a boat centered in a slip.  Proper docking often requires the used of spring lines to keep the boat from moving forward and backward in the slip.  I've seen people using the same cleats for docking lines and spring lines.  It can be done but having separate cleats for the spring lines midships makes hooking things up much easier, is easier to adjust, and is generally more secure.

Regular scrubbing of the decks and hull above the waterline is a good way to keep a boat looking good.  It is also essential to inspecting the condition of the deck and hull.  Soft spots likely mean rot beneath the surface that should be repaired as soon as practical.  Stress fractures or cracks may be visible that may help identify structural problems so they can be repaired before they lead to a catastrophic failure.  Gelcoat on fiberglass boats can sometimes be restored using special cleaners.  If all else fails you may need to redothe Gelcoat or paint the topside.  Be sure to use non-skid paint on the portions of the deck where you will normally be walking.  You can add non-skid materials to any Topside paint to match or complement the deck paint color.  I like the idea of rubber-based anti-skid additives like Softsand.  They work well and are easier on bare feet than the coarse grit (sand or crushed walnut shells) used in other non-skid additives.  I have also had really good success adding a product called Clear-grip for anti-skid protection on my boat deck.  It provides a non-slip surface that isn't gritty or harsh like typical sand or crushed walnut additives.

Equipment in the cabins of boats will very likely depend on the type of boat, the owner's preferences, and how the boat it used.  Some common facilities include galley and head fixtures such as stoves, iceboxes, and toilets.  Many boats have radios and electronic navigation equipment that need to be regularly tested.  Stoves, iceboxes, and sanitation facilities should be thoroughly cleaned at least annually, more if so indicated in their respective owner's manuals or if they get high use.  Check your bilge pumps.  Every boat should have at least a manual bilge pump and many larger boats have electrically or battery operated pumps to expel unwanted water from inside the hull.  Many boaters keep a bucket handy for bailing out the boat as needed.

Electrical systems should be inspected to make sure there are no loose or corroded connections or frayed wires.  Batteries should be inspected and, if necessary, topped off with distilled water.  Corrosion is a very common problem in a marine environment, especially in salt water.  Loose or damaged connections should be promptly repaired to ensure proper operation of electrical systems and to prevent fires.  Dim or flickering lights are one obvious indicator of bad wiring.  Pay special attention to navigational lights to make sure they are properly installed and functioning correctly.  Failure of navigational lights could lead to collisions if you are out on the water after dark.

Not all boats have plumbing systems, but those that do should be inspected and any loose or damaged connections or fittings or faulty pipes, tanks, and fixtures repaired or replaced.  Pay special attention to any thru-hull fittings that can allow water to seep into the boat.

Safety equipment should be inventoried and inspected.   Safety equipment should include personal flotation devices (PFDs, i.e., life vests), throwable floation devices (cushions and life saver rings), horns, whistles, flares, and lights (signal lights and navigation lights.  Flags are also a common safety feature.  Sailboats may require "day shapes" that are used to alert other boaters the sailboat is at anchor or under mechanical auxiliary power.  All boats should carry a proper distress flag for emergencies.  All safety devices should be in good condition and readily available to the crew.

Keep afloat!

OHV Mechanical Maintenance

Like any other piece of machinery, an OHV is going to require a certain amount of maintenance.  Without it you will experience premature wear and equipment failure.  The last thing you want is for your dirt bike or ATV to break down when out on some remote trail miles from nowhere.  The last thing you want to do is have to push your OHV back to camp!  Performing regular maintenance will help minimize the chances of that happening.

Each machine is going to have its own maintenance schedule recommended by the manufacturer.  The maintenance schedule will be included in the owner's manual.  If you purchased a used machine and didn't get an owner's manual you may be able to find one at your local dealer or on the Internet.  In the meantime, there are many routine maintenance tasks you can perform to keep your machine in top shape.  You may have to guess about period between major tasks like changing engine or transmission oil or servicing hydraulic brakes and clutches but it wouldn't hurt (except perhaps in your pocketbook!) to do them once a year.  Engine oil should be changed more often, especially if the machine is getting lots of use.  2-stroke engines rely mostly on the oil mixed in the gas and don't have oil in the engine pan.  4-stroke engines do have an oil pan and pressurized lubrication systems and you need to keep an eye on the oil level (check it before every ride).  If when you check it is gritty or smells burned, it needs to be changed regardless of how recently it has been done.   Black oil is OK.  Most oils contain detergents to keep the engine clean so fresh oil can quickly become black soon after an oil change.  Most OHVs also have transmissions that need attention.  Check the oil level before every ride and change the oil according to the manufacturer's instructions or whenever it shows signs of deterioration.  Some common problems to look for include metal shavings on the dip stick, which indicate damage to the gears inside, and discolored or foamy oil that may indicate water contamination.  Other lubrication should be done as needed.  Drive chains should be lubricated before every ride and after they have been cleaned.  Wheel bearings and suspension should be lubricated several times a years, more often if your rides include water crossings.  Throttle, brake, and clutch cables should be lubricated frequently.  Because they are enclosed they probably don't need to done for every ride, but once a month would not be too often.

If you have the owner's manual, or can copy the maintenance schedule from someone who does, be sure to follow the manufacturer's guidelines.  Following proper procedures (and documenting it) is often required to maintain warranties and is always a good way to prevent premature wear and tear.  Even it you do not need documentation for warranty purposes, it is a good idea to maintain an accurate record of maintenance for your own benefit so you know when it needs to be done again.  Good maintenance records may also help improve resale value if/when you decide to sell your vehicle.

Another significant part of routine maintenance is checking for and tightening or replacing loose or missing fasteners.  The constant vibration and sometimes jarring impacts OHVs experience causes bolts, nuts, and screws to work loose.  Using a thread locker like Loc-Tite will help keep them secure but is no substitute for checking them often (at least before every ride).

Some, but not all, OHVs have electric starters.  If yours does, it will  have a battery.  You will need to monitor the battery condition and make sure is properly charged for each ride.  Check the electrolyte level at least once a month and top it off with distilled water if it is low.  Use a "trickle charger" to keep the battery fully charged when your equipment is in storage between outings.

Brakes and clutches need regular adjustment to function properly.  Brakes that are too tight or clutches that are too loose will slip.  When that happens not only do they not function right, they will wear out quickly.  Brake pads or shoes can usually be changed by a fairly handy DIY mechanic at home.  Clutches often require special tools and techniques, but many riders learn how to do this themselves too.

Tires wear out from normal riding and will often loose a little air while in storage.   Check tire pressure before each ride.  Some experienced riders use a "pinch test" but using a pressure gauge is more accurate and reliable, especially for novice riders.  When tires get worn replace them.  Worn tires won't have the traction or durability to support off road riding.

Spending a little time and money doing routine maintenance will pay back many times over in avoiding expensive and inconvenient breakdowns out on the trail.  Maintenance may not be as much fun as using your OHV, but its a lot more fun than pushing or towing it when it breaks down due to poor maintenance!

Work it!

Trailer Mechanical Maintenance

The living quarters of travel trailers required basically the same kind of routine maintenance as any other RV:  regular cleaning, checking for and sealing leaks, servicing appliances, dumping and flushing holding tanks, winterizing (if you don't live in the Sun Belt), and sanitizing the fresh water system.

Unlike motorized RVs, travel trailers have only a few mechanical components you'll need to take care of.  Motorized RVs have literally ALL the mechanical systems (and potential problems) as any other motor vehicle:  engine, cooling system, transmission, drive line, suspension, tires, and brakes.  Travel trailers don't have engines or power trains so they require a lot less mechanical maintenance but there are things you need to watch for and tasks you need to do on a regular basis.

Tires and wheels.  One of the most visible and most obvious mechanical parts of a travel trailer are the tires and wheels.  While some ordinary car or truck tires may fit your trailer wheels, you should use trailer rated tires.  They are designed specifically for the kind of use (or non use) they get on trailers, including long periods in storage.  Check your tire pressure frequently and always maintain the proper pressure.  Your trailer should have a tire pressure label or you can get it from the owner's manual or the manufacturer.  Lacking any specific recommendations, inflate the tires to the maximum pressure indicated on the side wall.  If your trailer is light, using the maximum side wall pressure may over inflate the tires.  When that happens you will see excess wear in the center of the tread and the trailer may feel "squirrelly" in the wind or when buffeted by passing trucks.   Over inflated tires also create a harsher ride that might you might notice as vibrations or bumping transmitted through the hitch to your tow vehicle.   If your tires are under inflated you will see excess wear on both edges of the tread and the tires may run hot, which reduces their life expectancy and, if the get hot enough, can cause blowouts.  Excess wear on only on one edge means the axle is out of alignment, caused the tries to be dragged a little sideways.  Mushy tires will increase rolling resistance, making your tow vehicle work harder to pull the trailer and lowering fuel economy.  One way to ensure proper inflation is to have your trailer weighed and inflate the tires using a weight/inflation chart.

In addition to proper inflation, regularly inspect your tires for wear and side wall cracking.  Most RVs, including travel trailers, get limited use and tread life usually exceeds the expected life time of the tire.  Side wall cracking is an indication that the tires have "timed out" and are becoming susceptible to blowouts.  Wear patterns can be an indication of other problems so monitor them closely.  As mentioned above, excessive wear in the center of the tread indicates over inflation; excessive wear on both edges indicates under inflation; wear on only one edge is probably due to misalignment;  more wear on one tire than the others on a trailer may indicate a brake is dragging on that wheel or that the wheel bearings are going bad and have extra resistance.  Brake or wheel bearing problems will also result in the affected tire(s) getting hotter than the others.

Lug nuts are one of the most often neglected components of trailers.  Sometimes they are hidden under hub caps but even when they are exposed, most people tend to ignore them.  If they are in good condition and have been properly torqued they usually won't have any problems.  However, the constant vibration can loosen lug nuts.  One indication is a shiny ring behind the nut(s) where the wheel has been wobbling.  It is a good idea to check your lug nuts regularly, at least before each trip.  You might do it using a proper lug wrench and making sure they feel tight but the best way is to check them with a torque wrench to be sure they are correct.  When you tighten lug nuts or other fasteners the bolt inside is slightly stretched as the they are tightened.  A torque wrench measures just how tight the fasteners are.  Torque specs are provided by manufacturers indicating the proper tension needed for them to operate at design capacity.  Under torqued fasteners may come loose; over torqued fasteners may stress the bolts and nuts and cause them to fail prematurely.   Extreme over torquing can even strip the bolts and nuts.  When checking the lug nuts also inspect the wheel for signs of damage:  dents in the rim or any cracking.  Have someone stand behind the trailer and watch as you pull it forward a few feet to see if the wheels wobble.   Wobbling wheels may be bent, loose, or may have bad wheel bearings.

Hubs and wheel bearings are another part of the system that is "out of sight, out of mind" for many people.  That can be a dangerous mistake!  Properly lubricated wheel bearings will last for many years and many thousands of miles if not abused.  Abuse comes when the the axle is overloaded or the lubricant is compromised by water, dirt, or solvents or simply get used up.   Check your owners manual or with your dealer to determine the recommended schedule for servicing your wheel bearings.  Lacking any other guidelines, service them at least once a year, more often if they get submerged (e.g., a boat trailer, fording streams, or caught in a flood).  Servicing them consists of removing the bearing from the hub, cleaning an inspecting the bearings and the hubs for wear, re-packing the wheel bearings with appropriate grease, reinstalling the wheel bearings and torquing the axle nut to the proper specification.  Most axle nuts have a slotted cover that has a cotter pin that goes through the slots and through a hole in the end of the axle to keep the nut underneath from spinning as the wheel turns.  Always use a new cotter pin.  The old one  will have been weakened by bending and unbending as it is installed and removed and could break.  If the axle nut is too loose, the wheel will wobble, stressing the hub, bearing, wheel and tire.  If the axle nut is too tight,  it will put extra pressure on the wheel bearings, causing them to overheat and wear faster.  When you remove and inspect the bearings some of the things to look out for are contaminates in the grease (dirt, water, metal shavings), burned grease (may be black and dusty instead of greasy or may only smell burned), any loose or missing balls in the bearing, any signs of wear on the bearing race inside the hub.  Damaged races can sometimes be pressed out and replaced but very often by the time the race is damaged the hub also needs to be replaced.   Packing the wheel bearings with grease before reinstalling them is a crucial step.  You want to make sure the grease fills the bearing.  There are tools that clamp around bearings and have a grease fitting that allow you to use a grease gun to pack the bearings but the most common way of packing bearings is to place a dollop of grease in one hand  (your left hand if you're right handed or your right hand if you're left  handed), then hold the bearing firmly by one edge in your dominate hand with the wide side of the bearing down.  Press  the edge of the  bearing opposite your hand down into the grease in the other hand until new grease squeezes out the top side of the bearing.  Then rotate the bearing slightly to the next position and repeat until you have packed grease all the way around the bearing.   Different applications may require different types of grease.  Ordinary wheel bearing grease is the most common, but boat trailers should use a special waterproof grease.  General purpose grease is usually OK for most trailer wheel bearings but for best results use Disc/Drum Brake Wheel Bearing Grease.

Some trailer axles have a grease fitting in the end of the axle so you can lubricate the bearings without having to remove and repack them.  Even with these you will want to remove the hubs and inspect and repack the bearings every year or two.  With other types of axles, even if they have an added on bearing protection system like a Bearing Buddy that lets you use a grease gun to push grease into the outer bearing, the hubs should be removed and the bearings inspected and repacked at least once a  year.  The after market bearing protection systems do not adequately lubricate the inner bearings.

Trailer suspension.  Most travel trailers I've seen have leaf springs that connect the axles to the frame and absorb some if not most of the bounce when the wheels encounter an obstacle or rough surface.   A few also  have shock absorbers.  Sometimes shock absorbers can be added to minimize bouncing of the trailer.  Since you're not riding in it, minimizing bouncing mainly helps avoid unwanted rearranging of the contents and reducing stress on coach components but if you can feel excessive bouncing of the trailer through the hitch into the tow vehicle, you might want to explore the possibility of adding shock absorbers.  Springs generally don't require a lot of maintenance.  For the most part you just need to make sure all the fasteners are tight and not damaged.   Spring shackles should be greased periodically.   Lacking any specific recommendations from the manufacturer, they should be lubricated at least once year.  When you inspect your springs, the leaves should all be neatly stacked on top of each other, not twisted or skewed and there should be no signs of cracked or broken leaves. Usually the springs are slung  under the axles and held on by massive U-bolts.   Sometimes, if the ride height is too low, you can do what they call "flipping the axle".  That generally means moving the springs so they rest on top of the axle instead of being slung underneath it and raising the height of the body several inches.  If you have a drop axle and need even more height, it might be possible to literally flip the axle over.  Normally drop axles drop down between the wheels to  lower the trailer body. Flipping it over or replacing it with a straight axle will then raise the trailer body.  Exercise caution and check with a qualified technician before "flipping" an axle.  Doing so may have unexpected consequences.  For example, some axles are designed so the wheels tilt slightly.  Flipping them over will reverse the angle of the wheels, which will affect handling and tire wear as well as clearance inside the wheel wells.

More on trailer springs.  Most trailers have leaf springs that require little maintenance but over time, the vibration and flexing may cause one or more leaves to break.  If you have to replace the springs, be sure to measure them so you get the right length and get the right style shackles.  Always replace springs in pairs.  Doing just one side will likely result the new side being higher than the old one and will stress both the axle and the body of the trailer.  Sometimes you can increase ride height and weight capacity by using heavier springs.  Sometimes you can also adjust ride height by changing the spring shackles.  But be aware that using longer shackles may put extra stress on the shackles and their mounting points because of additional leverage so consult a suspension expert first.  In addition to replacing springs,  a good spring shop can re-arc and rebuild existing springs.  Re-arcing restores the shape and function of the original springs.  Rebuilding replaces damage leaves and/or adds leaves for extra capacity. 

Trailer axles.   Trailer axles are usually pretty sturdy and don't require any maintenance.  They may be solid or tubular, round or square, straight or drop style.  You should visually inspect your axle(s) from time to time to ensure they are securely attached, properly aligned, and have not been damaged.  Bent axles will affect handling and cause excessive tire wear.  Cracked axles are rare but are in danger of breaking and dropping your whole trailer onto the pavement!  If you have a bent or damaged axle you might be inclined to try to repair it rather than replace it.  Not a good idea!  Damaged axles should be replaced.   You will want to find a matching axles (length, diameter of the tubing, straight or drop style) unless you have a need to change the ride height. 

Trailer hitch.  One more critical mechanical component is the trailer hitch.  Hitches take a lot of stress and, over time, may develop problems, such as cracking in various places or stretching where they fit around the ball (bumper pull trailers).  The pin on 5th wheel hitches may get worn or bent or become loose.  Worn or damaged components should be replaced as soon as possible as a failure is likely to have catastrophic consequences for the trailer, the tow vehicle, and any other nearby objects or person.  The hitches on some trailers are welded to the tongue; some are bolted on.  If you're is bolted on, you can probably replace it yourself.  For best results use new bolts and nuts when  you replace the hitch.  If the hitch is welded on, it will have to be cut or ground off and a new one welded on.   Many trailer owners overlook the need to grease the ball when hooking up their trailers.  Often the ball on the receiver on the two vehicle is a nice, shiny chrome and greasing it makes it look ugly and you get dirty grease all over your pants whenever you happen to brush up against it.  However, greasing the ball will reduce wear so the ball and hitch last longer and it minimizes binding between the ball and the hitch when turning.  Sometimes an ungreased hitch will create an annoying squeak when pulling the trailer.  That squeak is a sign of excessive wear happening every time the ball moves inside the hitch.

About the only other mechanical parts on travel trailers are tongue jacks and stabilizing jacks.  Tongue jacks may be manually or electrically operated and usually need little maintenance other than cleaning and lubrication.  Be sure to periodically check the electrical connections on electric jacks.  A common problem is a loose or corroded ground wire.  Manual jacks usually are operated by  a crank and the handle on the crank may need cleaning and lubricating.  The gears inside the jack should be packed in grease.  Sometimes you can service these gears, sometimes you can't.  If the jack gets difficult to turn when there is no weight on it, try cleaning and lubricating the gears if you can get to them.   If you can't service them, about your only option is to replace the jack.  Not all trailers have stabilizing jacks but if yours doesn't, you may want to add them.  The most common stabilizer jacks I've seen on travel trailers are scissor jacks.  They are welded or bolted to frame.  You may only have two at the back (and use the tongue jack to level the front) or you may have them at all 4 corners.  They usually require little maintenance, other than cleaning and light lubrication on the moving parts (the screw itself and the hinge points for the scissors).  Some light weight tent trailers have simple stabilizers that drop down and lock into place.  They don't provide any lift for leveling, but will keep the trailer from tilting or bouncing.  If any tongue or stabilize jacks are bent they should be replaced.  Sometimes you can straighten bent parts to get by for a while, but having been bent and straightened they will have been weakened and are likely to bend again -- and again -- until they cannot be corrected or fail completely, usually causing additional and expensive damage to the trailer.

Trailers also need maintenance similar to your house.   The plumbing, heating and air conditioning, and electrical systems will experience the same kinds of wear and tear and need the same kind of preventative and restorative maintenance as the corresponding residential systems.  You will also need to pay attention to exterior finishes and weatherstripping.  Door and cabinet hinges and latches may need to be lubricated and adjusted from time to time.

Trailer on!

Motorhhome Mechanical Maintenance

Motorhomes have at least all of the mechanical components and systems of other motor vehicles, like your car or truck.  That being said, you will have to perform the same regular maintenance (oil changes, chassis, lube, brake service, collant service, etc) as are needed on you daily driver.   However, because motorhomes don't get as much use as our daily drivers, the maintenance intervals may be more likely to be determine by the calendar instead of the odometer.  Sitting idle can be one of the most detrimental things for a motor vehicle as lubricants and "soft"parts deteriorate over time.

Be sure to follow the maintenance schedule in  your vehicle owners manual.  Unless you are taking a long trip, you'll  probably need to schedule oil chances and chassis lubes based on time rather than mileage.  At the very least you should change the oil and lube the chassis at the beginning of each season.  It is also a very good idea to change the oil at the end of the season before you put it into storage for the winter.    That means you could sometimes log zero miles between the pre-storage oil change and the start of season oil change.  Why would  you need to do that?  Well, you should be running the engine at least a few minutes each month while it is in storage but even without that,  the oil in the crankcase will absorb some contaminates left behind from before the oil was changed and moisture can accumulate during storage and affect the oil.  Always install a new oil filter when  you change the oil.  If you do the oil change yourself, examine the old oil for possible problems:  metal shavings, moisture, antifreeze, or a burned smell.  Metal shavings sometimes show up in new vehicles as a result of left overs from the manufacturing process but in older engines they are a sign of internal problems and excessive wear.  Moisture may just be from condensation during storage but antifreeze indicates a coolant leak into the engine.    You can purchase chemical test kits to test your oil for antifreeze.  The most common problem is leaking head gasket but it could also come from cracks in the head or the block.  A burned smell indicates the engine has been overheating.  An engine can overheat from internal resistance enough to scorch the oil without ever raising the coolant temperature enough to be reflected on the temperature gauge or to activate the "idiot light".  If you find and evidence of problems you should seek to have them diagnosed and corrected before they can cause further damage.  Chassis lube should be performed together with each oil change.  Be sure you can identify and access all the lubrication points if you are doing this yourself or take it to a qualified specialist.

Air filters should be checked whenever you change the oil or more frequently if the vehicle is being operated in dusty conditions.  Dirty, clogged filters should be replaced.  Clogged filters negatively affect performance and fuel economy.  Replacement paper filters are inexpensive and are easy to change.  An alternative for increase performance is to install a K&N reusable air filter.  These are oil-charged and can be cleaned and reused over and over.  They also are less restrictive than ordinary paper filters, increasing the flow of air into the engine and improving performance.

Fuel filters should be inspected and replaced per the vehicle maintenance schedule.  A clogged fuel filter may cause fuel starvation, decreasing both performance and fuel economy.  Many large vehicles have more than one fuel filter, so be sure to locate and replace all the filters.  There may be a small filter in line near the engine and another one back near the fuel tank.  Some filters are internal to the fuel tank and therefore are impossible to inspect and difficult and expensive to change.

Check the coolant in the radiator.  If it is low there may be a leak that needs correcting.  Typical places for leaks are radiator hoses, heater hoses, heater cores, and the radiator itself.   Correct any leaks and top off with the proper coolant.  If there is any sign of oil in the radiator there is internal engine damage, such as crack in the head or block, that is allowing oil to be forced into the cooling system.   Here again you can purchase chemical test kits to detect engine gases that can contaminate coolant without visual signs.  Rusty coolant should be drained and the system flushed and refilled with new coolant. Some cooling system leaks can be temporarily cured by adding stop leak to the radiator.  However, anything that can plug leaks can also plug the radiator core so it is better to have the leaks properly repaired.  Clogged radiators can sometimes be "rodded out" to restore normal flow.  This consists of removing the tanks from top and bottom of the radiator and shoving rods through the tubes in the core to remove debris.   Then the tanks must be re-soldered to the clean core.  This whole process can only be done by competent professionals.

Motorhome transmissions undergo a lot more stress than the one in your family car.   The size and weight of the motorhome are the major factor but it may also be affected by towing a dinghy or a trailer.  You will want to keep a close eye on the transmission fluid.  Automatic transmission fluid should be a deep reddish color.  If it is brown or black or smells burned, the transmission  has been overheating and is in danger of failing.   Check the fluid level when the transmission is warm (vehicle has been driven at least a few miles), with the transmission in PARK and the engine idling.  If it is low, add fluid to bring it up between the marks on the dipstick.  Sometimes if I need to add fluid I will use Lucas transmission additive instead of plain transmission fluid.  The Lucas product contains additives to reduce friction and to treat seals and gaskets to keep them pliable and working well.  If you use additives, be sure to follow the manufacturer's guidelines for how much fluid to replace with their product.

Wheels and tires.   Check tire pressure before each trip and, preferably, every morning before hitting the road.  When you stop for gas, lightly touch each tire to see how hot they're getting.  All the tires can get pretty hot on a hot day, but if one tire is hotter than the others, it may be under inflated or there may be some abnormal resistance, such as a sticking break or a bad wheel bearing.   Inflate your tires according to the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations or the the maximum pressure on the sidewall.  For even better pressure settings, have each wheel weighed at a truck scale and use tire weight inflation chart to match the tire pressure to the actual load on each tire.  Over inflation will cause excessive wear in the center of the tread and usually the reduction in surface area in contact with the road will make the vehicle feel squirrelly and ride rougher than normal.  Under inflation will cause excessive wear on both outside edges and cause the tire to overheat and the vehicle to feel sluggish.  Turning the front wheels when stopped may be harder and you might hear tire squeal on turns.   Excessive wear on just one outside edge indicates an alignment problem.  Cupping of tires indicates an out-of-balance condition.  When inspecting your wheels and tires, be sure to check the lug nuts and look for any damage to the wheels.   Damage maybe in the form of dents that come from impact with obstacles or cracking from vibration.  Loose lug nuts might be indicated by a shiny ring behind the nut even if the nut feels tight.  At the very least check the tightness of all lug nuts periodically using your lug wrench.  For an even better check and added peace of mind, check the lug nuts using a torque wrench to be sure they are properly tightened.  Check with your local mechanic or tire shop if you can't find the torque specs in you owner's manual.

Wheel bearings.  The rear wheel bearings on most vehicles are lubricated by oil from the differential.    Front wheel bearings require grease and should be checked and service at least once a year.  You have to remove the hub to get to the wheel bearings.  Once you have the bearing out, inspect it for wear, contamination, and loose or missing balls.  If there are loose or missing balls, replace the bearing.  Inspect the race (the part the bearing rides on in the hub).  If it is rough or shows other signs of wear, it may also need to be replaced.  Usually you can press or drive the old race out and press in a new one.  If that doesn't work,  you will have to replace the hub.  If the old bearing is serviceable, clean it with solvent and dry it thoroughly.  Then pack it with wheel bearing grease.  You can buy a tool to pack bearings.  It consists of pair of shallow cones that clamp on the sides of the bearing and has a grease fitting through which you force grease with a grease gun.  The old mechanics standby method of packing wheel bearings doesn't required any tools, just your bare hands.  Put a dollop of grease on your non-dominant hand.  Hold one edge of the bearing with the wide side down in your dominant hand.  Press the bearing down into the grease until it squeezes out the top side of the bearing.  Then rotate the bearing to put grease into the next segment.  Continue until the entire bearing has been filled with grease.  When reinstalling the hub, tighten the axle nut to the torque specified for your vehicle.  It it is too tight it will put extra  pressure on the bearing and cause excessive wear and over heating.  If it is too loose the bearing will rattle and wear unevenly and the wheel may wobble.  The axle nut has a slotted cover through which a cotter pin is inserted through a hole in the end of the axle to prevent the nut from spinning as the wheel turns.  Always use a new cotter pin.  The old one will have been weakened by bending and unbending during installation and removal and might fail.

Air conditioners.   Many motorhomes are equipped with automotive dash air conditioners.  There is little owner maintenance associated with these systems other than to make sure the condenser (looks like a small radiator in front of the radiator) is clean, that the fan belt is in good condition and properly adjusted, and that the clutch on the compressor goes on and off as you turn the A/C on and off.  Testing and refilling the coolant in the system requires special equipment and training.

Belts and hoses.  Belts and hoses are made of rubber and are subject to deterioration over time as well as wear and tear from use.  Inspect the fan belts to be sure they aren't frayed or show signs of slipping (a slick, high gloss on the side of the belt that contacts the pulleys).  Check to see if they are properly adjusted.  You can usually adjust a belt by loosening one of the accessories it drives, like the alternator, power steering pump, or air conditioning compressor, pushing the accessory to tighten the belt (you might need some leverage such a a large screw driver or small crow bar to do this), and then re-tightening the mounting bolts for the accessory.  Any frayed, cracked or badly stretched fan built should be replaced.  There may be multiple fan belts.  Sometimes they are simply redundant or added safety but usually there are different belts for different accessories.  Be sure to inspect and adjust all the belts.  Many newer engines have a serpentine belt instead of fan belts.  Serpentine belts are wider and flatter than regular fan belts and the inside of the belt has rubber teeth that fit into corresponding teeth on the pulleys or sprockets.  Serpentine belts weave around wrapping around several pulleys on the front of the engine.   If your vehicle has a serpentine belt instead of fan belts and it is damaged, it will have to be replaced.  There will be a tensioner that holds the belt tight.  It usually has notch  or square slot to fit a 1/2" ratchet to move the tensioner so the belt can be removed.  It also has to be moved to install the new belt.  Unless the tensioner is damaged, it should automatically maintain the proper tension on the serpentine belt.  Check all the clamps on radiator and heater hoses.  These are common points where leakage occurs and can usually be corrected by tightening the clamp (if it is a screw type clamp that can be tightened).  Crimp clamps may have to be replaced.  Make sure the leak is from the end of the hose and not around the clamp where over tightening may have weakened or cut into the hose.  Heater hoses often leak at the connections and often there is enough slack to cut off the damaged end and reinstall it without having to replace the entire hose.   If the hose is hard and brittle it will have to be replaced.  After checking the clamps on the radiator hoses, squeeze them where you can reach them to see if you can feel any weak spots.  Those with  internal wire reinforcing will be difficult to test this way, but plain rubber hoses often have soft spots you can feel.   When you find one with soft spots, replace it before it ruptures and allows the coolant to escape and cause the engine to overheat.

The engines for on board generators required the same kind of regular service as the vehicle engine:  change oil and filter, check and, if necessary, replace air and fuel filters.  The schedule for the generator motor is normally done according to hours on the meter but it is always a good idea to service it at least once a year regardless of low use.  Check spark plugs.  If burned or crusted, clean or replace, being sure to set the gap to the proper measurement.  Most RV generators are air cooled.  But, if yours is liquid cooled, inspect the coolant, hoses, and radiator as you would the vehicle cooling system.

Some motorhomes are equipped with hydraulic or electric leveling jacks.  The jacks themselves need to be inspected, cleaned, and lubricated.  The hydraulic fluid level needs to be checked and proper hydraulic fluid added if it is found to be low.  DO NOT use regular motor oil!  Check all the electrical connections and clean an tighten as necessary.  Inspect all the hydraulic lines and fittings.  Loose fittings should be carefully tightened, damage or leaking lines should be replaced.

Motorhomes also need maintenance similar to your house.   The plumbing, heating and air conditioning, and electrical systems will experience the same kinds of wear and tear and need the same kind of preventitive and restorative maintenance as the corresponding residential systems.  You will also need to pay attention to exterior finishes and weatherstripping.

Motor  on!

Camping Stores

In a previous post we addressed "Camp Stores".  They are the little stores in a campground that usually offer some staples and camping supplies as opposed to larger camping stores, that focus on selling camping supplies and equipment.  In this article we will focus on "camping stores":  stores or stores with departments that primarily sell camping equipment and supplies.

Camping stores might be appropriately applied to any store that regularly sells camping supplies and equipment.  We usually think of places like Camping World, L.L. Bean, and REI primarily as camping stores.  Department stores such as Walmart, Kmart, Target, and Sears usually have large camping sections which qualifies them as camping stores. Sporting goods stores like Big 5, Dicks, Cabela's, and Sportsmans Warehouse are, of course, also good place to find camping supplies and equipment.  Many RV retailers have in house stores that sell mostly RV oriented supplies and accessories, but because camping and RVing are so closely aligned, you often find a wide variety of general camping supplies there too.  You may also find camping supplies at your local grocery store and large pharmacy chains like Rite Aid and Walgreens.  Some auto parts stores stock a limited amount of RV supplies too and sometimes that includes camping items.  You might even find camping supplies in truck stops and travel centers along major highways.  You can even get a lot of basic supplies at dollar stores!

When I'm in the market for camping supplies and equipment, whether for tent camping or RVing, the first place I usually look is ebay.com.  That is, if I can afford to wait a few days for the items to be delivered.  For more immediate needs, I'll head to a local store like Big 5 or Walmart.  I've kept track of my ebay purchases over several years and have found that by judicious choice of purchases I've saved an average of over 50% over retail, even when I include shipping.  But whenever you use an Internet auction site, be sure you know what things will cost through regular local or online retail outlets so you don't over bid.  Remember, to some extent, to win an auction on ebay you must be willing to pay more than anyone else in the world!  Don't let yourself get drawn into a bidding war over something you can get elsewhere.  I've seen bids for items on ebay climb way above the regular retail price at the local Walmart.  For example, I saw someone pay over $17 plus shipping for an outdoor 12-volt RV receptacle that sells every day at Walmart for under $10!  You also need to be aware of shipping and handling costs, which sometime exceed the value of the product.  I guess it might be worth it if you don't have a Walmart near you, but you should be able to order it online at a reasonable price and have it delivered anyway without overpaying for it in an auction.

Thrift stores are not normally thought of as camping stores, but they can often be an excellent source of inexpensive equipment for camping.  People often donate camping equipment they no longer use to the charitable organizations that run thrift stores.  Often the equipment has only been slightly used because it seems we never get to go camping enough.  Sometimes it is even brand new! People tend to accumulate duplicate items over time or receive them as gifts.  You won't always find equipment like tents, lanterns, stoves, or sleeping bags, but they are pretty common and when you do you find them you will probably be able to get them for a fraction of their original retail cost and very often they will be gently used and still in good condition.  Some thrift stores even recondition items for sale.  You can almost always count on finding plenty of kitchen items -- pots, pans, utensils, dinnerware etc.  You can stock your galley or chuck box without breaking your budget.  They usually have a large selection of clothing from which you can build up your camp wardrobe.  Good winter jackets, like ski parkas, can be VERY expensive when new but you can often find excellent used ones at thrift stores that are more than suitable for camping at a tiny fraction of their original cost.  Thrift stores are also a good place to find good used jeans and other comfortable pants for camping.  You may even find some good hiking or snow boots!  (I like to keep a pair of snow boots in my RV.  I call them my "desert bedroom slippers".  They are really comfortable and keep my feet warm and comfortable around the campfire after a day of having my feet confined in stiff motorcycle riding boots. Thrift stores are also a good place to pick up extra linens for camping.  Bedding and towels can take a beating in camp so having inexpensive and expendable ones is always a good idea.  Other good sources for used items include garage sales and local classified ads.  Also be sure to check your your local version of craigslist.

My advice to you is to look for camping and RV supplies and accessories where ever  you go.  Even hardware stores and home centers sometimes have items you may find useful, even if they aren't specifically designed for camping.  I once picked up a 7' umbrella tent for $10 at a side walk sale at a home improvement store!   Our local home center recently had a special price promotion on telescoping walking sticks.  I would have never thought to look for them there.  I've even found unique camping related items at truck stops and travel centers during road trips.  While you might need to be careful about making unplanned expenditures while traveling, you will often discover that you will never have another opportunity to purchase certain unique items.  In general my suggestion is when in doubt, buy it!  I can't think of a single time I've regretted making such a purchase but there have been many times I've lost out by not buying something when I could and definitely regretted it!

A couple of tips for keeping cost down:  1) check to see if you already have some excess or duplicate items you can re-purpose for camping before you spend good money on new ones and 2) keep your eyes open for sales -- watch for clearance and manger special signs whenever you go shopping.  Look over the stuff in your kitchen, attic, basement, and garage to see what you might have stored that you can now use.  One other thought:  stock up on bargains when  you have a chance.  That applies mostly to durable goods and supplies.  Buying large quantities of perishable items only makes sense when you have an immediate need and will use them up before they go bad, such as for a large family or group outing -- or if you have a way to preserve them for future use, such as freezing them.  I had to pay $1.50 for two of the little spring type sleeping bag cord locks when I needed them NOW for a trip.  A few days later I bought about 50 of them in one bag on ebay for about what I spent at my local sporting goods store for two!  It took a couple of weeks for them to arrive but next time I need them I'll be all set.

Dollar Tree isn't really a camping store or even have a camping department per se, but you can often purchase many items you might need for camping there.  Check out my post on Camping Supplies from Dollar Tree.  You won't find tents or sleeping bags but you will find lots of cleaning and medical supplies, kitchen items, flashlights, batteries, tools, and I've even found small solar camping lanterns there!

Some items you might find it useful to watch for and stock up on might include spare parts for stoves and lanterns (generators, mantles, pump repair kits etc), tent pegs, personal grooming items (such a camping mirrors, biodegradable soap, pocket first aid kits, etc), LED flashlights and batteries, fire starters, parts for back packs (those darned little clevis pins have a habit of getting lost on the trail!), sunglasses, and bandages and other durable medical supplies.  RVers or tent campers with a porta-potty will want to stock up on toilet/holding tank chemicals.  If you use a gasoline camp stove or lantern, a couple extra cans of camping fuel would be handy.  Fortunately, the white gasoline used for camping fuel lasts a lot longer than modern ethanol modified motor fuel.  If your have propane stove or lantern, you can save money by buying multi-packs of propane canisters when they're on sale.

Camping stores are an excellent source of new gear.  However, you can often find gently used or even unused camping equipment at garage sales and via classified ads like ebay and cragislist.  Some of my favorite pieces of equipment have come from these places.  Sometimes used items might need a good cleaning but often you'll find things in ready to go condition.  People sometimes end up with duplicates or they upgrade their gear and the excess ends up in garage sales and thrift stores.   It has always surprised and pleased me to find out how frequently I see brand new items at bargain prices.  If you have a strong preference for buying new products, keep an eye out for coupons, clearances, manager's specials, and end of season sales.  To keep your cost down look for year end sales and manager specials to get bargain prices.

Sometimes you might be searching for a vintage item that is not longer available through normal retail channels.  You may still be able to find what you want on ebay or craigslist.  I did that to get an "accessory safe" for my vintage Coleman lantern.  Why some fairly popular items like that disappear from the market is a mystery to me.  I can only assume they didn't live up to the manufacturer's or retailer's profit expectations or the cost of manufacturing them got too high.  Often, the difficulty in finding them may drive up the price, so do shop around a bit before jumping on a "find" but don't wait too long or the price may go up even more or the item you want may be sold!

Shop 'til you drop!

Take a Hike

Take a hike is a term often used to express disdain for someone or their suggestions.  But it can also be good advice.  Hiking is a pretty safe and healthy form of recreation and it fits well with the RVing and camping lifestyle.

In most places we go camping there are many hiking trails readily available, ranging from simple, almost flat paved trails in urban areas to extremely steep, rocky, difficult trails for the more adventurous.  There are trails in or around many Forest Service campgrounds.  Some are interpretive nature trails with either self guided or ranger led tours.  Some trails are available for multiple uses:  hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, even OHV riding.  When  using a multi-use trail, give appropriate consideration to other users and recognize they have as much right to be there as you do, even if they choose a different mode of movement.  Be prepared to yield the right of way according to appropriate needs.  Sudden movements and loud noises may spook horses so exercise extra care when you encounter equestrian groups on  your favorite trails.  Although you may disapprove of mechanical devices (mountain bikes, dirt bikes, ATVs, etc) there are times hikers should yield.  In many places it is a lot easier and safer to step aside than to maneuver a machine out of the way and back onto the trail -- and it is less likely to do any environmental damage.  Do some research about any trail you choose before you begin.  Know the difficulty and any special risks (weather, animals, water crossings, avalanche, fire danger, etc).  Be sure to check in with the local ranger station and let them know when you are starting out on the trail and when you expect to return so they will know where and when to begin search and rescue operations if  you fail to return at the expected time.  Check the weather report so you can avoid going places that are likely to flood during rain or face avalanche danger if it snows. 

Be sure to bring plenty of water.  Even moderate hiking is fairly strenuous exercise and even on cool days you can work up quite a sweat.  You'll need to replenish your water and your electrolytes to maintain strength and alertness needed for your excursion.  Some trails have natural sources of water available along the way.  Even very clear, clean, pure-looking water can be contaminated so be careful.  Check with the local ranger to find out which water sources are safe.  In most cases the most common affect of bad water is simply a case of diarrhea, which can quickly seriously dampen your spirits  (and other things) but water around old mining or manufacturing sites may be contaminated with dangerous chemicals, such the deadly cyanide used in gold refining.  Even when taking water from "approved" sources, be sure to check up stream for contamination from animal carcasses and feces.  Look as far up stream as you  see and if the view is blocked, it is well worth taking a few minutes to move far enough to be sure the water doesn't contain anything unhealthy before you drink or fill your canteen.  Even washing  your hands and face in contaminated water can expose you to biological and chemical agents that could make you sick.

Like any other outdoor activity, you need to be properly prepared.  First, make sure you have no health problems or  physical limitations that will be a problem during your hike.  Pre-hydrate your body by drinking plenty of water and/or sports drinks starting the day before your hike.  Choose proper clothing according to weather conditions.  Even on warm days it is a good idea to tuck in a light weight nylon jacket or a plastic poncho in case of rain.  Even if rain isn't the the regional forecast, many mountain areas create their own local weather.  And it could get cold at night if for any reason on don't get back on time.  Be sure you are wearing proper footwear.  Comfortable running shoes are favorite among many hikers for easy trails but for more difficult terrain and for added safety anytime, wear good hiking boots.  They will protect you from stubbing your toes on rocks and logs and will help guard against sprained ankles and provide extra protection against snake and insect bites.  Always take time to break in new shoes or boots before you go hiking in them.  Choose a good sock system to ensure your feet are properly cushioned and protected from blisters.  Yes, I said "sock system".   Proper socks for hiking and some other intensive physical activities often require multiple layers to meet all the needs for proper protection and comfort.  Socks should be heavy enough to cushion your feet without overheating and should be made of a fabric that will  wick away perspiration.  Many times it is useful to wear a thin pair of socks under your heavier hiking socks to help prevent blisters.  Usually the thin socks will stick to your feet and slide against the thicker socks instead of having socks rub directly on your skin. If you do get blisters, a product called "moleskin" is a good first aid treatment to cover and protect blisters.  If you are prone to blister and know where, you might apply some moleskin to the affected areas before you start out to prevent blisters.  Many hikers like to use a hiking stick.  It is a good way to help stabilize yourself on the the trail and often eases the burden on your legs, feet and back, making it more comfortable.  I have a collapsible aluminum Coleman hiking stick that takes up little room or weight in my pack when not in use and yet provides a lot of comfort on the trail.  In a pinch it could be used to help splint a broken arm or leg.  In the unlikely event that you are attacked by a wild animal, it might even serve as a defensive weapon.

First aid, having a proper first aid kit and knowing how to use it, can mean the difference between a minor injury causing a little discomfort and a more serious situation that ruins your hike.   Blisters, insect bites, and small scrapes and scratches are likely to happen along the way.  Each person should carry at least a small pocket first aid kit with bandaids, moleskin, and antiseptic cream.  For larger groups, someone should bring along a more comprehensive first aid kit with sterile dressings, gauze, adhesive tape, and some pain medication.  Everyone should have basic first aid training and advanced first aid skills are strongly recommended for at least one person in larger groups and when hiking difficult or dangerous trails.

There was a time when navigation depended on topographical maps and a good compass.  While these are still effective, inexpensive, and even fun to use, modern GPS devices provide easier and more accurate ways to know keep track of where you are and where you're going.  You can also get "beacons" that transmit your location and status to be delivered to one or more designated recipients when the panic button is placed.  Some are even capable of detecting unusual conditions, such as a fall or prolonged inactivity resulting from an injury or illness.  Some can be programmed to deliver regular status reports to chosen locations to friend and family at home know where you are and that you are OK.  In that case, a missed report might signal a problem that would trigger a search and rescue operation to assist you.

Modern electronic communication devices give us lots of ways to call or help or just keep in touch when on the trail.  It is sometimes surprising to find cell phone coverage in some relatively remote areas.  If  you have the budget for it, a satellite phone will work almost anywhere, but beware, they are VERY expensive!  CB and Ham radios generally required line-of-sight between stations but even that might be sufficient in some situations.  Citizen Band walkie talkies are a good way to maintain communications between members of a common organized expedition.  You can even get hands free,  helmet mounted versions for use on OHVs, mountain biking, and horseback riding.

Never hike alone is a good rule to follow.  Even a simple injury like a twisted ankle may require some assistance and having help in more serious situations could literally mean the difference between life and death.  In 2003, experienced solo mountaineer Aaron Raltson was trapped for days in a remote slot canyon in southern Utah when an 800 lb boulder came loose and trapped his arm against the canyon wall.  After several days and having long since exhausted the two burritos and a quart of water in his backpack, in desperation he broke the bone in his own arm, then cut through dead flesh with dull multi tool to free himself from his predicament. You can read details of his story here.  Aaron was a very experienced mountaineer, having scaled 59 Colorado peaks over 14,000, 45 of them solo.  If YOU choose to do some solo hiking, be careful and be sure to leave details of your planned trip with family, local rangers, or law enforcement so they can send help if something happens and you can't get back.  A simple hike on a popular, familiar, and frequently used hiking trail probably will probably be pretty safe for just about anyone.  However, as Aaron's story illustrates, even the best qualified hikers can get in serious trouble in difficult and/or remote locations.

One of the good things about hiking is you can choose the level of difficulty and effort.  That means you can start out easy and work your way up to more challenging routes and you can tailor each hike to your  current physical, mental, and emotional condition.  You can also customize hikes to accommodate the skills and strength of any other hikers in your group.

Take a hike!