RV, Camper, and Boat Vacuum Cleaners

Keeping RV and camper floors clean is essential to aesthetics, comfort, and preventing premature wear.  Both hard surface floors and carpet are damaged when grit is allowed to accumulate and get ground in.  It cuts through wax, scratches and dulls hard surfaces, and even severs carpet fibers.  Walking on dirty floors can be uncomfortable and even painful and unhealthy.  Hard surfaces can be cleaned pretty well by just sweeping them with a broom or dust mop and occasional wet mopping, but carpets need a good vacuuming with an aggressive roller brush to really get the dirt out of the fibers along with annual or as needed deep shampooing.  Hard surfaces will usually benefit from an occasional deep cleaning to remove wax build up and accumulated grime.  Once cleaned they should be again protected with a quality wax.

Interior boat floors can vary widely.   In many open boats, the "floor"is usually just the inside of the wooden, metal, or fiberglass hull.  Even in boats with small cabins that might be the case but some closed boats have floors raised above the bilge that may have any kind of flooring, including vinyl, tile, and carpet.  Caring for any of these floors would be pretty much the same as caring for them in your RV or your home. Some have teak floors that may require special care using cleaners designed for the purpose.

Some luxury RVs (and even some large yachts!) have central vacuum cleaners.  If you are fortunate enough to have one of these you don't have to worry about choosing a vacuum cleaner.  You only need to allocate storage for what is usually a very long hose and be prepared to drag it out whenever you need to clean up.  Central vacuum systems often have more than one place to attach the hose and once you are done sweeping you can empty the bag and tuck the hose away.  Most central vacuum systems rely entirely on air movement for cleaning. so you may still want to drag out your upright vacuum at home and give you RV carpet thorough cleaning periodically.  Central vacuums can be quite convenient for clean ups while you are traveling.  Central vacs are usually vented so that they don't recirculate dust inside the unit as can happen with stand alone systems.  Most of the better vacuum cleaners on the market have a HEPA filter to reduce releasing dust back into the air.

Upright vacuum cleaners typically to the best job of cleaning carpets.   They have powered roller brushes in the vacuum head to loosen ground in dirt and brush it up so the air flow can carry it through the hose to the bag.  Uprights can be used on hard surface floors but the brushes don't reach all the way to the edge so you might still have to clean next to cabinets and baseboards with a broom or dust mop.   Most uprights have an adjustable roller brush height to accommodate long and short carpets and even hard floors.  However, large uprights are kind of heavy and bulky to carry in most RVs and boats.

Cordless uprights can be a viable solution for an RV, especially the smaller ones designed for quick cleanups.  They are light weight and take up a smaller storage footprint.  Not having to run the generator or drag a cord around is also a nice feature.  The only downside to them are they are usually less powerful than a standard upright but they can be really good for a quick cleanup.  You should still plan on giving your carpets a thorough cleaning with a full powered upright vacuum when you can.

Canister vacuums have the advantage of easy storage.  They can often be tucked away in the space under a dinette seat or bed.  They are fairly easy to move around and the attachments allow you to easily clean under the dashboard and around the food pedals of a motorhome and inside closets, cupboards, and cabinets.  They can also be used to clean upholstered seating and remove accumulated skin cells and dust mites from mattresses.  Most canister vacuums rely entirely on the movement of air to clean floors.  They work pretty well on hard floors but don't beat the dirt out of carpets as well as an upright.  I have an older Kenmore "Blue Magic" canister vacuum I've used in several motorhomes.  In addition to being easy to store, this particular model includes a powered vacuum head that contains a powered roller brush so it cleans almost as well as an upright, but without the storage hassles.  I found mine on ebay,com.  So far I've been able to continue to purchase new bags for it but some day I might have to find a way to adapt bags from a newer unit.  Note:  some canisters with roller brushes rely on the movement of air to power the roller.  An electrically powered roller will work harder and do a better job.

An economical solution for many people is to use a light weight canister vacuum while on the road and give the unit a good, deep cleaning with an upright when you get home.  When using a standard canister vac, be fairly aggressive moving the head rapidly over the carpet so it loosens the trapped soil.  Some folks go slowly, expecting the suction to work better, but in my experience (and confirmed by a vacuum cleaner salesman), rapid movement actually does the better job at separating carpet fibers, loosening trapped dirt, and flinging it up into the vacuum head to be carried away by the fast moving air.

Almost any vacuum cleaner has one or more filters to prevent the dirt is sucks up being blown back out as dust.  Check your filters regularly and replace them as needed to maintain performance and function.  A clogged filter will reduce suction and may allow dirt to escape into the air.  Some units have a separate HEPA filter, others may have HEPA rated bags.  HEPA stands for High Efficiency Particulate Air and HEPA filters will trap 99.97 percent of particles that are 0.3 microns.  Smaller particles can still get through.  Use HEPA filters or HEPA rated bags whenever you can.

Not really a vacuum but a simple way to clean carpets is a carpet sweeper. The are compact and light weight so take up little of your valuable storage space.  The wheels drive a roller brush that sweeps debris out of carpets into a storage area inside the unit.  They are handy for quick cleanups in a motorhome or trailer but lack the power and air flow for deep cleaning.  They are great for quick cleanups of light debris like pop corn or potato chips.   They work fairly well on surface dirt but you will still need a good upright vacuum for deep cleaning.  Getting the sand or dirt up before it gets ground into the carpet can help prevent premature carpet wear.

Keeping the floors (and decks) on a boat clean is just as important.  Available space to carry large pieces of cleaning equipment is even more restricted on boats than on typical RVs.  Exterior decks can usually be rinsed off  with buckets of water.  Interior floors need to be swept frequently during an outing and given a good deep cleaning when you return to the dock.  A small, 12-volt car vacuum might be handy for quick cleanups on your boat.  Boat decks can usually be easily hosed down to clean them.

On  a side note, in my primary career as a computer programmer I heard it said that  '''If Microsoft every built a product that DIDN'T suck, it would be a vacuum cleaner!''  Won't be buying any vacuum cleaners from Microsoft.

Vacuuming sucks! (and for once that's actually a good thing!)

An Attitude of Gratitude

 

We just celebrated Thanksgiving and for many families there is a tradition of recounting what we are thankful for. Not only is that a nice thing to do, it can actually increase your level of happiness according to several prominent studies.

As recreational enthusiasts (campers, RVers, OHVers, boaters) we have many things to be thankful for.  All of these are good, wholesome family activities that foster family bonding and promote individual  and family health.  We can be thankful for the level of financial success we've enjoyed that has allowed us to acquire our recreational "toys"  We can be thankful for physical, emotional, and spiritual health that allows us to pursue our chosen avocations.  We can be thankful for beautiful natural resources that give us a variety of places to go and things to do.

Feeling and expressing gratitude has many benefits.   It improves physical and psychological health, helps your sleep better, and boosts self esteem.  It also enhances empathy and reduces aggression, which in turn can strengthen and improve relationships.  There are no known downsides to having an attitude of gratitude.  There can also be tangible rewards such as improved relations with resource managers and increased support for your favorite activities.

Just BEING thankful is only a first step in enjoying all the benefits of gratitude.  To fully appreciate the things we're thankful for we need to express our thanks.  With that in mind, I want to thank my viewers for taking time to read and comment on this blog.  Who do you have to thank?  For those of us with religious convictions, we can thank God.  All of us can thank our significant others and our families.  We can also thank the folks who make our lifestyles possible:  dealers, suppliers, park rangers, and our communities.  One way of showing our appreciation is by giving back to our communities.  Look for ways to volunteer in your community.  My wife and I are volunteer fire fighters and EMRs but I know that isn't something everyone can or would want to do.  There are many other ways to serve your community.  To find out more do an Internet search for "volunteer opportunities near me".

Take time to express your appreciation to the rangers and others who work to provide and protect the recreational facilities we enjoy.   You might even want to write your Congressman!

 Grateful for you all!

RVs and OHVs Blog Comments and Questions

I was recently reviewing comments and discovered some unanswered questions posted to my blog.  I apologize for not responding to each one right away.  I try to review comments periodically but if you have a question you need answered, please email me at desertrat@desertrat.org. I usually check my email several times a day.  I have had some problems with my computer this last year and, more recently, we have been without Internet since early September due to the Holiday Farm fire along the McKenzie River west of our home in McKenzie Bridge, Oregon so my access has been limited.

 Thank you for your comments and your questions!

Winterizing Your Boat

How do you winterize your boat?  A lot depends on what kind of boat you have, how large it is, and whether you leave it in the water or not.  Trailerable boats can be easily hauled out and stored on shore, often at the owner's home or in a storage yard so they are easily accessible for cleaning, maintenance, winterization, repairs, and upgrades.  It also keeps them safe from theft or damage at the marina.

Many aspects of winterizing a boat are similar to winterizing and RV.  First of all, drain or freeze-proof all water systems (fresh water tanks, lines, and fixtures, waste water lines and tanks, and engine cooling systems).  Remove all perishable foods, sundries, and supplies.  Inspect all hatches and thru-hull fittings to ensure they won't leak.  

If you have a trailerable boat, or have your boat hauled out for the winter, you may want to shrink wrap it to protect it from the elements over the winter.  Doing it yourself can be a lot of work but there are companies that perform this service and are well worth it if it is within your budget.  Covering  your boat with a tarp will provide some level of protection, but it won't be as secure as shrink wrap and wind may wear holes in the tarp and/or damage the finish on the boat where it contacts hard surface.  Custom fit boat covers provide a safer, more secure way of covering your boat but they can take time and can be quite expensive.   We use a tarp over a PVC pipe frame to protect our sailboat.  The tarp protects it from the weather; the pipe frame protects the boat from the tarp and allows access for off season work.  When all assembled it looks like the boat is in a covered wagon!

While you have your boat out of the water is a good time to clean and inspect it.   Hulls often collect algae, mollusks, and other unwanted growths that can inhibit performance and, quite frankly, look like crap!  It would be a very good idea to thoroughly clean your boat, top and bottom, inside and out, before you put it into storage.  Carefully inspect the deck and hull to determine if they need painting or other maintenance before you put the boat back into service next year.

If you leave your boat in the water you will want to ensure it is securely tied up so winter storms don't toss it around and cause damage.  You will want to winterize all plumbing systems and remove perishable provisions and things that might be damaged by freezing if you are where it freezes.  You may want to cover your boat with a boat cover or tarp for extra protection.  If you do, make sure it fits well and is securely fastened.  You should plan on inspecting your boat regularly so you can take care of any problems that come up such as loose docking lines or accumulation of excess water in pools on covers or tarps.  Depending on how secure the marina is, you may also need to check for possible theft or vandalism while your boat was unattended.  Thieves and vandals are usually quick to notice and take advantage when any property is left alone for longer than normal periods of time.

You will want to remove all perishable provisions and anything that might be subject to freezing.  You may also want to inspect galley items to ensure they are clean before putting your boat into storage lest they attract pest during the winter.  Clean tables, counters, and cushions and wash any bedding, linens and clothing you plan to leave in the boat before putting it into storage.  Add used dryer cloths or moth balls to  drawers and closets help keep bugs at bay.  Used dryer cloths can be left between the sheets or in sleeping bags to help keep the beds fresh and clean.

Install some kind of device to reduce humidity when you put your boat into storage.   If your boat is stored where you have access to 120 volt power there are electric de-humidifiers that will dry the air.  For other situations you can get moisture control canisters that use chemicals to draw the moisture out of the air.  I use them in my motorhome, motorcycle trailer, and my boat.  I usually purchase them at Dollar Tree so they are not terribly expensive.  They are small so they fit just about anywhere but the size does limit there capacity so you may need to swap them out several times during the winter for best results.  Reducing humidity will help prevent mildew.

While your boat is out of commission for the winter is a good time to perform any need repairs, do regular maintenance, and work on any upgrades or enhancements you have been planning.  It will be harder if you leave your boat in the water or have it shrink wrapped.  Check the hull to see if the bottom needs painting.  They often do after a season in the water.  If  you have anything you need or want to do this winter you may want to do it before you shrink wrap it if that is your plan for protecting the boat.  Otherwise you may have to wait until you unwrap it next spring to get the job done.   Making repairs as soon as possible is the best way to reduce further damage and minimize the chances of forgetting what needs to be done.  In the paragraph below I describe the framed cover we use for our sailboat which gives us access to work on the boat just about all winter along.

We have a trailerable Macgregor 25 sailboat.  Each winter we pull it out of the lake and bring it home.  This saves several months of mooring fees, avoids risking damage from being banged around the docks by winter storms or icing, and keeps the boat in our yard where we can keep an eye on it.  We built a shelter for our boat using a PVC pipe frame and a large, green farm tarp.  The PVC bends enough to form bows over the boat to hold the tarp up, preventing possible damage to the tarp and the finish on the boat and allowing us access to the deck and the cabin for inspection and maintenance.  It looks like a big green covered wagon over the boat.  We drive 3/8" rebar into the ground as anchor points for each of the PVC pipes supporting the frame.  We used 1/2" schedule 40 PVC pipe.  For our 25' boat we use three horizontal pipes -- one at the ridgeline and one alongside each lifeline.  We use 4-way  (cross) connectors every 2' to run bows and legs from the ground on one side up over the boat to the ground on the other side.  Then pull the tarp over and tie it down securely with bungie cords.  You might want to glue the framework together or secure each joint with cotter pins or bolts, but I just use a press fit so I can easily replace any parts that may get damaged from snow loading and can disassemble it when it is time to launch the boat.  Our original green farm tarp lasted through 5 years of rainy and snowy Oregon winters, including an unusually heavy snowstorm and strong winds in at least 2 seasons!  This type of framed cover allows us to get into the boat for regular inspections and any maintenance, repairs up upgrades we need or want to do over the winter.  You will need to monitor throughout the winter to make sure the tarp stays taught and doesn't collapse under the weight of snow or rain.  Try to dump any puddles as soon as possible to minimize the buildup of weight on the protective structure.  If it collapses on your boat it could cause expensive damage.

To minimize tear down and set up time we keep as much of the framework intact when we remove it each summer.  If  you glue it together be sure to leave enough room on each side to pull the whole boat and trailer assembly out and put it back in next season.  If you choose to glue it together and use it as a semi-permanent structure you might want to consider using larger PVC pipe.  We went with 1/2" pipe for flexibility and ease of handling as well as lower cost.  We managed to break down our framework into about 6 pieces this last time and it took us less than 2 hours from start to finish to install the cover this year.  The "covered wagon" style cover also allows us easy access to the boat for inspection, repairs, cleaning, maintenance, and upgrades over the winter while providing good protection from the elements.  I find it handy to keep a supply of PVC fittings to replace any that get damaged by wind or snow loads (or I break taking it apart!).  They should include Ts, elbows, and 4-way "cross" fittings.

We kept our original 1970 Macgregor Venture 24 sailboat after it was totaled by the insurance company when it fell off the trailer on the way to the lake last summer.  It makes a fun playhouse for the grandkids and one day, with luck, we might find a new swing keel and mast to repair it and make it seaworthy again.  We covered it with a tarp to protect it against winter weather and keep soggy leaves from staining the deck.  I used sections of the broken mast to make a ridgepole down the centerl ine so that rain mostly runs off.  Fortunately the tarp doesn't really contact any painted or gelcoat surfaces that might be damaged by chaffing, but it is already wearing through where it contacts the tops of the stanchions along the lifeline.  Next year I should probably top each stanchion with a tennis ball.

The more you protect your boat for the winter, the less work you will face before launching it again next spring and the less chance there is of unwanted visitors making nasty nests or messes in or on your boat.  Wet leaves can leave nasty stains on the deck so protecting it with some kind of cover will save you a lot of scrubbing (or repainting!).

Keep it protected!

My Experience as a Volunteer Firefighter and How It Relates to Camping and Survival

For several years my wife and I have both served as volunteer firefighters and EMRs in our rural community.  It has been an exceptionally rewarding experience.  Now, I was never one of those kids who wanted to be a fireman when he grew up, but I've always had a strong interest in emergency preparedness.  Growing up in a rural area instilled a deep appreciation of self reliance.  That led me to join my local Community Emergency Response Team (C.E.R.T.) many years ago.  Then, several years ago, after just completing a renewal of my C.E.R.T. training I took a summer job at a resort in central Utah.  The fire station was about 1/4 mile from the resort.  I stopped by to let them know of my C.E.R.T. background in case I could be of use while working at the resort.  I was informed they didn't have enough permanent residents to support a C.E.R.T. program (4000 cabins and only 600 permanent residents in the district!) but they were short on volunteers.  The previous year they had more than 2 dozen volunteers but a falling out with the board of directors resulted in all but 3 resigning!  So I signed up as a volunteer firefighter and for the next 6 months I was 1/4 of the department!  That meant I got to do lots of things rookies don't usually get to do.

Upon purchasing a home in McKenzie Bridge, Oregon, my wife and I both joined the Upper McKenzie Rural Fire Department.  Our timing was perfect.  There was a fire academy starting that very night, hosted by a neighboring department.  Fire academy includes activities that complete about 70% of the requirements to reach Firefighter I certification.  The rest had to be done in the home department after graduation.  Our department strongly encouraged us to get certified as Emergency Medical Responders (EMRs) as well.  EMR is the first level of emergency medical support, below EMTs and paramedics.  They used to be known simply as First Responders and often include law enforcement as well as fire fighters.  We learned that our little rural department handled about 300 calls a year, most of which were medical emergencies or traffic accidents along the 40+ miles of McKenzie Highway in our district.  So the EMR training was essential.

The skills, training, and experience we've gained in C.E.R.T. and as volunteer firefighters can be invaluable when facing an emergency in a remote area, something we might all face when RVing, boating, camping, or riding OHVs.  Even before I became a volunteer firefighter I used my C.E.R.T. training to assist injured dirt bike riders.  I helped splint a broken arm, a broken ankle, and provided first aid for and transported a rider with a severe knee laceration to the ER.  I once spent about an hour removing cactus spines from a rider's arm after he went down into a cactus patch.  Many times when we are enjoying the great outdoors we will be a long way from medical help and being able to provide basic or even advanced first aid could reduce suffering and could, literally be the difference between life and death in some cases.  So investing a little time in C.E.R.T. training or advanced first aid techniques is a good investment for anyone who goes RVing, camping, boating, or riding OHVs.

Why would anyone want to be a volunteer firefighter?  After all, being a volunteer means getting called any time, day or night, and rushing off, often in very bad weather, to assist people in distress.  You often see people on the very worse day of their lives -- when their house catches fire, they are in a motor vehicle accident, or are seriously ill or injured.  We feel it a privilege to be able to serve our community and, since we are nearly 1 hour away from a major city, it is essential that as citizens we are able to take care of ourselves.  Because of our remote location we often make use of Life Flight to transport patients to an appropriate emergency hospital for treatment.  It is kind of exciting to learn how to set up a safe landing zone and load patients into the helicopter.  It is always a good feeling to know you've helped someone.  I really enjoy serving my community!

Being a volunteer firefighter and EMR isn't for everyone.  If you happen to have an aversion to seeing blood you might have a problem.  Firefighters and EMRs are often called to accidents where people have been severely injured.  It may take some condition to get used to helping people in those situations.  Fortunately, it has never been a problem for me personally, but I did have a problem with hypodermic needles and I force myself to watch when I am getting injections or having blood drawn for lab work so seeing and helping EMTs with IVs doesn't make me cringe.

Our regular fire department training ensures we are current in our first aid and other critical skills.   It adds a lot of peace of mind knowing we are up to date and know what to do in most emergency situations.  I can think of few if any events that would be more painful or difficult than facing a personal or family emergency without having any idea what to do.  Good first aid training kept  up to date is a valuable asset for everyone who enjoys remote outdoor activities.  You never know when you will be faced with assisting someone, perhaps giving life-saving assistance, when professional medical help is miles and/or hours away!

While you can get called anytime, you are always a volunteer and can choose whether or not to respond to each call.  It is always up to you but we are encourage to respond whenever we can.

How safe is it?  Of course there are always risks associated with fighting fires, responding to motor vehicle accidents, and even taking care of sick people.  However, proper training, personal protective equipment, and procedures and protocols are designed to minimize the dangers.  My wife and I had both been certified flaggers for 5 years in Utah so we already had the skills to provide professional traffic control for motor vehicle accidents.  There is always some risk associated with fighting fires but wearing the correct PPE and following proper procedures goes along way toward keeping us safe.  In more than 4 years total service and hundreds of calls I have yet to sustain any injury.

The motto "Everybody goes home" is more than just a dandy slogan in the fire department:  it is a power rule that all firefighters live by.   Our fire chief demonstrated her commitment to that rule as it applies to our community when she ordered the early evacuation of residents during the devastating Holiday Farm fire last September.  She is credited for saving hundreds of lives.  She and several of our volunteers lost their own homes while out fighting the fire.  Since our home was up-wind of the fire we were spared, even though the fire began less than 3 miles from our house!

Are there age limits for being a volunteer firefighter?  Generally, you need to be at least 18 years old but some departments have junior firefighter programs for younger teens.  Some departments have a mandatory retirement at 55 or 65, but in most cases you can continue to serve as long as you are healthy enough to perform the necessary physical tasks.  That is particularly true in volunteer departments.  My wife and I are both well into our 70s and are still active volunteer firefighters.  I follow the 5BX exercise program I learned in the Air Force Reserve to maintain the physical strength and agility required of firefighters.   I currently maintain the level designated for 45-49 year olds and added a few half-squats to strengthen my legs for getting up wearing heavy turnouts and SCBA.   I added the squats before I learned that they are part of the next level of exercises.  I am now 77 years old and still an active volunteer fire fighter.  In fact, I am working this summer as a paid fire fighter during the fire season.  I've read of people in their 90s who were still serving as volunteer fire fighters.  Many still respond to calls and even when one runs out of physical strength their knowledge, training, and experience can continue to be useful.

Volunteer firefighters make up nearly 3/4 of all the firefighters in the United States.  Even in larger cities with paid fire departments there are often opportunities for volunteers.  Unfortunately, the number of people stepping up has declined in recent years, but, if you are interested in becoming a volunteer firefighter, that may work to your advantage.  There may be more opportunities now than there were a few years ago.  Some departments require prior experience or even Firefighter I certification but most volunteer departments are willing to train new volunteers, if the volunteers are willing to commit the time necessary for training.  Our academy took 4 hours or so on Wednesday nights and all day every Saturday for about 3 months.  We consider it time well invested.  Not only did we learn valuable and necessary skills we developed useful relationships with members of our neighboring department who hosted the academy.  You will usually have to commit to attending at least 3/4 of the weekly drills to maintain your status and readiness to respond.

Our little rural fire department is an all volunteer department.  That means there are no paid, full-time firefighters hanging out at the station waiting to be called into action.  When someone calls 911 we get a call on our fire department radios and/or an app on our cell phones and have to go to the station to pick up the proper equipment to meet the needs of each call.  For medical calls that is usually our Rescue truck, which is similar to an ambulance.  For fires and motor vehicle accidents we respond in a fire truck as well.  Response times for all-volunteer fire departments are, understandably, a bit longer than for full-time departments.  Personnel have to to drop what they are doing, leave their homes or jobs, and drive to the station instead of simply hopping aboard the apparatus and heading out to the call.  

We recently received a grant to hire a few full time firefighters during the upcoming wildfire season and I am thankful to have been accepted for one of the positions.  The idea is that by having someone already at the station we can respond faster and take care of small brush fires before they grow into wildlfires.

Our fire department was first on scene at the start of the Holiday Farm fire in September 2020.  I was out of district and unavailable to respond but I monitored the progress on my department radio, including Level 3 evacuation orders that included my home in McKenzie Bridge.  Although the fire started only 3 miles from our home the wind took it the other way and we were spared.  At least a half dozen of our fellow firefighters, including our Chief, lost everything while they were out fighting the fire.  Because the main highway was closed by the fire my wife had to drive way around to join me at my mother's house.  The trip took her 6 hours to reach a destination that is normally 45 minutes away.  The fire, evacuation, and subsequent loss of normal services (electricity, telephone, Internet) accentuated the need for proper personal emergency preparedness.  It was at least two weeks before we could even get home to check things out and another week before power was restored.  Phone and Internet were still months away.

Being a volunteer firefighter involves learning many skills.  Obviously you learn how to fight  fires -- use fire extinguisher, run hoses, etc.  But is also includes a lot of learning about things like building construction and design and how it affects fire behavior, how to use specialized tools for gaining entrance into locked structures or cutting holes for ventilation. We also have to learn protocols and techniques for fighting wildfires.  Motor vehicle accident responses require knowledge of vehicle stabilization and patient extrication techniques as well as traffic control.  Since our district extends along the McKenzie River we need to know water and ropes rescue techniques.  Medical calls require a knowledge of CPR, including the use of an AED (Automatic External Defibrilator) as well as advanced first aid and administration of oxygen.  EMTs and paramedics can also do IVs.  In our rural district along the McKenzie River we also get frequent calls for water rescue events.  Those can be challenging.  The river is very cold all year round and flows at a high rate in most places.  White water rafting is popular summer activity on the Upper McKenzie River.  Keeping up to date on all the training requirements requires a time commitment but it also keeps you on you toes and helps you maintain adequate levels of physical, mental, and emotional capabilities that yield benefits in all parts of your life.

 The skills you learn as a volunteer firefighter and EMR can have direct application to handling emergencies while camping and during natural or man-made disasters at home.  Fire suppression, first aid, medical triage, and light search and rescue can all be needed and maintaining those skills will always help you when faced with an emergency situation.   I once read that "YOU are the only first responder you can really count on" and having lived in earthquake country and seeing how overwhelmed emergency services can be in a large scale disaster, I definitely believe that is true.  It is a good feeling to know I can take care of my family and my friends and neighbors if necessary.  I fly an EMS flag (see below) on my dirt bike trailer when we go riding so other riders know where they can come for aid if they are injured.                                                                             

                                                                   

 Even if you aren't interested in being a volunteer fire fighter I encourage everyone to seek C.E.R.T. training to better prepare yourself to look out for you, your family, and your friends and neighbors in the event of an emergency or local disaster.  You, your family, and your friends and neighbors will be glad you did!  Even if you don't chose to serve your community in the long run, just having the C.E.R.T. training will make you better prepared to care for yourself and your loved ones when there is a disaster.  Many natural disasters overwhelm emergency services and you will likely be on your own for 2 weeks or so.  I once read that "You are the only first responder you can really count on" and I firmly believe that is true.

 Step up!

Boat Trailer Guide Posts for Loading Your Boat Onto Your Trailer

One of the most frustrating, difficult, and least fun tasks associated with owning a boat is launching it and loading it back onto the trailer.  Check out boat launch ramp failures on Youtube for some amusing and sometimes painful and expensive examples of problems.  Boat trailer guide posts are an amazing aid, especially when positioning an empty trailer in the water and lining up the boat to load it onto the submerged trailer.  They extend above the water to show you where the trailer is.  They won't prevent some of the most dramatic launch failures like backing your truck underwater, but they do make positioning the trailer and loading the boat a whole lot easier.  By the way, competent boaters will tell you to position the trailer so that only the rear 1/3 is in the water when you load the boat.  Back the trailer all the way down until the bunk boards are wet, then pull it out until the rear 1/3 is still in the water.  That not only makes it easier to see the trailer but when you run the boat up on the trailer it doesn't float off.  I still find the trailer guides helpful in lining up my boat as I pilot it onto the trailer.  Sometimes you can run the boat all the way onto the trailer but there will still be times you will need to use the winch to finish pulling it all the way on.  And, of course, you need to use the winch to secure it before you attempt to pull the trailer out of the water.

We just pulled our Macgregor 25 sailboat out of the water for the winter.  This was the first time I got to use my DIY boat trailer guide posts.  The last time we pulled a boat out of the water (without guide posts) it was a real pain in the neck (or about 2' lower!).  I had trouble seeing where the trailer was once it got submerged and had more trouble lining up the boat to load it for the same reason.    The trailer ended up at a strange angle and I couldn't see it through the water to guide the boat correctly onto the bunk boards.  Getting the boat loaded was a frustrating and time consuming ordeal that involved a lot of wading in cold, waist deep water and several tries both realigning the trailer and loading the boat.

I saw some commercial boat trailer guide posts on the Internet and it looked like a good solution to my problem.  But they were fairly expensive, like around $100 or more plus installation!  I thought about building my own out of PVC pipe and when I found DIY instructions on Youtube for doing exactly that it became a no-brainer.  The total cost, for PVC pipe, fittings, and stainless steel hardware to attach them came to less than $25.  It only took about a half an hour to build and install the guide posts.  

I mounted mine to the back of the fenders and they pretty much fit right up against the sides of  the boat once it is centered on the trailer.  You might want to leave yourself a little more wiggle room if you can, but you don't want them sticking out too far.  You don't want to exceed maximum vehicle width in your jurisdiction, which could be dangerous and could cause you to get a traffic ticket.  Mine measure just 8', outside to outside, which is the maximum width in most jurisdictions.  Since the beam of my Macgregor 25 is 7'9", the diameter of the guide posts pretty much puts them right against the rails so it just fits.

I was amazed at how much easier it was positioning the trailer and lining up the boat!  I am surprised that I don't see guide posts on EVERY boat trailer!  I'm sure if other boaters tried them they would agree.  Turned out the whole process was so easy my wife and I loaded the boat onto the trailer without even getting our feet wet!  Previously it had required at least one of us to wade about waist deep to guide the boat and crank the winch to load it onto the trailer.  With the trailer correctly positioned and using the guide posts again to line up the boat, we were able to float the boat right onto the trailer, align it by hand from the dock, and winch it into place from the open tailgate on the truck.

Following the instructions I found online (Jon boat trailer guide (DIY less than $20).  Like the video I used 1 1/4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe for my guide posts.  A single 10' piece of pipe was enough to do both sides.  I cut it in two, then cut 1' off each piece to mount them to the trailer.  You'll need two 90° elbows to join the horizontal mounting pipe to the vertical guide posts.  You should be able to drill holes in the fenders or fender brackets to bolt the horizontal mounting pipes on.   In the video he installed short bolts through just one side of the horizontal mounting pipes, drilling holes large enough on the opposite side to get a socket through to tighten them.  I used longer bolts and simply drilled and mounted them all the way through the pipe, figuring it would distribute the stress of torque from the tall guide posts and minimizes twisting.   If you  do it my way don't over tighten the bolts or you will distort and possible compromise the pipe,  I put PVC caps on the tops of the guide posts.  I glued the elbows to the horizontal mounting pipes but did not glue the guide posts into the elbows.  Instead I drilled the pipes and the elbows and used stainless steel bolts and wing nuts to secure them so they could be removed if necessary.    You can remove the somewhat ugly printing from the PVC to clean it up with a little dab of acetone so it doesn't have such a DIY look.  I had some reflective arrow tape lying around I had picked up at Dollar Tree and stuck a piece on the front and back  at the top of each guide.  I am quite pleased with the aesthetics as well as the incredible functionality of my DIY boat trailer guides.  Frankly they work so well I would still use them even if they were really ugly!

With the guide posts sticking up out of the water it is easy to see where the empty trailer is going when backing it down the ramp.  I was able to easily park the trailer right next to and perfectly parallel to the dock.  It is also very easy to line the boat up with the trailer for easy loading.  With the posts close to the beam of the boat they don't exceed maximum vehicle width and aren't in the way when I put my PVC pipe/tarp cover over the boat for the winter.  All in all, a win-win situation!  If your boat has less beam width you might have a little more wiggle room between the posts when you load the boat.  Just be careful not to exceed the Federal maximum vehicle width of 96".

By the way, a useful trick I learned for loading my boat (as mentioned above) was to back the trailer all the way into the water to wet the bunk boards, then pull it out again until only about 1/3 was still in the water.  That way, when you load the boat it will slide on easily but it won't float off the trailer.  You should be able to drive the boat all the way onto the trailer, sliding along the wet bunk boards until the bow contacts the bow guide on the trailer.  Then you just need to fasten the winch to the bow eye and you are ready to pull the boat out of the water and add any additional tie downs you need before hitting the road.  Take care not to drive it onto the trailer too hard or too fast or you may damage the boat and/or the trailer.  And remember, boats don't have brakes!

Guide on!

Winter Again -- Winterize RVs, Boats, OHVS, and Camping Equipment

Yep, it’s winter again. For most of us, especially in the northern latitudes, it pretty much means the end of our RV, OHV, camping, and boating season. Time to winterize the vehicles, clean and stow the camping gear, and break out the hot drinks and warm sweaters. Other posts on this blog have given detailed suggestions for winterization of RVs, campers, and boats, so we won’t go into details again here. Just consider this a reminder to review the previous winterization posts and take action. Failure to properly winterize your equipment can have far reaching and often expensive consequences. One of the most obvious issues is problems with freezing temperatures that have a devastating effect on water systems. Water expands when it freezes and it does so with surprising force. Freezing in little cracks in concrete sidewalks and driveways can completely destroy them. Freezing water tanks, pipes, and fixtures often cause damage in addition to the destruction of the items themselves so you want to be sure your water systems are protected if you expect freezing weather. Small engines, like those on motorcycles, personal water craft, and home maintenance equipment like lawn mowers are susceptible to fuel problems if fuel is left in the system for an extended period while the machine is not in use. Modern ethanol gasoline is does particularly nasty things to carburetors. It is a good idea to drain the all the fuel from the fuel tank, then run the motor until it stops to empty the carburetor. If you chose to leave fuel in the tank, be sure to add a fuel stabilizer to prevent it from going bad over the winter. And don’t forget other fuel-powered items such as lanterns and camping stoves.

When storing RVs, be sure to clean them thoroughly and remove any perishable foodstuffs. It is surprising how pests can find their way into even sealed plastic containers. We once had to throw out cases of MRIs from our fire department wildfire stash because rodents had chewed through the mylar packaging. Their ability to chew through it wasn’t surprising but how they could tell there was food sealed inside kind of was. I guess even the sealed mylar containers allow enough odor to escape to attract them. Heavier plastic containers similar to Tupperware, might protect things better, but, to be on the safe side, remove ANY THING that might attract pests. 

Cooler winter weather often contributes to condensation inside stored vehicles and vessels.   It is a good idea to provide some kind of moisture control.  If you have access to 120 volt power where your unit is stored you might use an electric de-humidifier.  The ones I've seen sell for about $50 to $80. Lacking power you can use chemical moisture eliminators.  I get mine at Dollar Tree.  They are small and I usually have to swap them out a few time each winter, but they do absorb moisture from the air.  You can tell when they need to be replaced because all the white granuals will have dissolved and the bottom of the container will be filled with clear water.  Or buy larger sized bags at your home center or online.  For example, amazon.com offers a 4-pack Boat Dehumidifier bag for $17.99.

 Camping equipment other than items that may contain water (canteens, water heaters, thermoses, etc.) are often forgotten, but proper storage is essential to prevent damage and make sure they are safe and ready to use next season. Sleeping bags should NOT be tightly rolled. If you have a place to do so, hang them so they can stay dry, air out, and the loft can expand. If you can’t hang them, put them in a stuff bag but don’t pull the cords too tight. As a last resort, unroll them and hang them for a few hours to let any residual moisture evaporate, then gently fold them for storage.  Leaving them tightly rolled like you do them for packing is a sure way to destroy the loft and make them unusable the next time you get them out after lengthy storage.  Make sure other fabric items, such as back packs, ground clothes, tarps, and tents, are dry before storage. Storing things wet is an open invitation to mold and mildew which, at the very least, makes them unpleasant to use next season and can often cause permanent aesthetic and even structural damage.

Batteries need special attention also. Vehicle batteries may need to be removed and placed where they will be protected from freezing. Using a ”trickle” charger to maintain the charge will significantly lower the freezing point if you want to leave them in the vehicle. It is best to remove batteries from dry cell appliances, like lanterns and flashlights. Electronic equipment should be stored safely in a warm, dry place with a fairly stable temperature. Frequent swings between hot and cold can cause condensation to build up internally and damage them, especially if they are in a humid environment. Interestingly enough, some dry cell batteries may benefit from being stored in a refrigerator.  If you don't want to remove dry cell batteries, consider flipping one around backwards to interrupt the circuit so the batteries won't get drained if the switch gets accidentally turned on.

Camping clothing should be cleaned and stored safely. If you choose to leave it hanging in an RV closet or folded in a drawer in your boat or camper, be sure to add some moth balls or used dryer cloths to discourage insects. I like using used dryer clothes. It is a nice way to recycle stuff that would otherwise just go into the trash and get extra use of out of otherwise disposable items and it leaves a pleasant scent, unlike the potent, nasty smell of moth balls.

Periodic inspections throughout the winter are a good idea. Take a few minutes to look over your stored RV, OHV, or boat every week or so to make sure everything is all right. If wind or weather has begun to damage things or there is evidence of pest intrusion, the sooner you discover it and can mitigate the problem, the less damage there will be. A broken limb that makes a hole in the roof of your camper isn’t TOO big a problem if you can find it and repair the hole before it allows a lot more weather to get in and create more significant damage. Getting rid of pests quickly can mean the difference between an unpleasant and inconvenient infestation and total loss of some items or even and entire RV!

 Winter is a good time to review and reflect on last season’s activities. Snuggle up in front of the fireplace in your favorite blanket with a hot beverage in your hand and read some of your camping diary. Or re-read your favorite RV or camping magazines and begin planning fun things to do in the upcoming season. Youtube has an endless supply of interesting and often useful and informative videos on just about any subject that may interest you. I have found the videos on camping and survival to be the most appealing and helpful to me. Brush up on your fire starting skills. Even if you have a nice gas log lighter to get your fireplace going, practice building your fire the right way, using appropriate tinder, kindling and perhaps flint and steel or some other “survival” method of starting a fire.  

While thinking about winterizing your recreational equipment you might want to think about winterizing your home too.  Sprinkler systems should be shut off and drained.  If you are on a well you might need to activate a heater or at least a 100 watt incandescent light bulb in your pump house to prevent exposed pipes from freezing.  You may have to shop around to find the 100 watt bulb as they seem to have been discontinued as a knee-jerk reaction to claims of global warming.  Drain and store garden hoses,  And don't forget to stock up firewood for your fireplace or wood stove.  Our current residence lacks both a fireplace and a stove but we still enjoy a fire in our R2D2 fire pit in our picnic area.  R2D2 is an old washing machine tub.

Stay warm, stay healthy, be safe, and get ready for another outstanding outdoor season!

Camping and COVID-19 -- Several months later

 

When I posted the first Camping and COVID-10 post we were all  hoping things would get better quickly.  Well, things haven't gotten better quickly!  In many places the increase in the spread of the disease has caused government to impose more restriction on our activities.  Fortunately, most restrictions focus on indoor activities and large outdoor gatherings.  For the most part we can still enjoy using our RVs, OHVs, and water craft.  With the promise of an effective vaccine on the horizon we may have some hope of things more or less returning to normal in 2021.

COVID-19 has certainly taken its toll on many of the activities we were accustomed to enjoying.  However, outdoor recreation, such as camping, dirt biking, and sailing, remain fairly accessible.  Social distancing puts limits on campfire gatherings but many of the other things we like to do outdoors are relatively unaffected.  Maintaining the recommended 6’ social distance spacing usually isn’t too much of a problem when dirt biking or water skiing for example, but it sure puts a kink in traditional campfire gatherings!

The “rules” seem to change every day and are often different from place to place and are often confusing if not downright perplexing.  A friend of mine discovered there was a 10 person limit on family gatherings for Thanksgiving but, in his jurisdiction, the limit for funeral s was 30 people.  So, his Thanksgiving gathering is going to be a funeral for his pet turkey!  While we can admire his creativity it is possible that the increased group size could possibly result in an increased opportunity to spread the virus, assuming you accept the CDC guidelines.

It is frustrating, at least to me, to see such diverse reporting surrounding the COVID-19 situation.  One the one hand you have those who favor even stricter rules for face masks and limits on public gatherings and cite increasing COVID-19 cases and deaths to support their position.  On the other hand are those who cite statistics that supposedly show COVID-19 is less dangerous than the “normal” seasonal flu  and claim wearing face masks is a larger health problem than COVID-19.  Fortunately I have a family member in the medical profession I can turn to for trustworthy information.  He has personally treated more than 2000 COVID-19 cases and remains free of the virus.  He attributes that largely to maintain proper Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and procedures, i.e.,  N-95 face masks and frequently washing of hands.  While these might be considered by some to be an invasion of personal freedom, they take little effort and CAN make a big difference.  Hand washing, for example, even before the COVID-19 pandemic was considered by many to have been the single most significant advance in medicine in the last 200 years when it comes to preventing infection and the spread of disease.  Before doctors understood the part germs play in causing and spreading infection it was not unusual for a doctor to handle an infected corpse and move on to a more or less healthy patient without even washing their hands.    Someone once told me of physicians in the Old West stropping their scalpels on the leather soles of their boots before operating on a patient.  Just imagine what those boots had been stepping in back in those days!

So, when it comes to camping (and other outdoor activities), there are still many opportunities we can take advantage of.  However, in the interest of avoiding catching COVID-19 – or falling victim to the fear-generated over-zealous reaction of some people to failure to comply with stated guidelines, it is prudent to comply with government regulations as much as possible.  Maintain at least 6 feet spacing between you and people who are not part of your household.  Wash your hands frequently and thoroughly for at least 20 seconds, especially after being in close proximity to other people who might be carrying the virus.  Keep your face mask with you so you can don it whenever needed.

Many people think they don’t need to wear their face masks outdoors.  However, micro droplets from  coughing, sneezing and even just breathing, hangs around longer than most people think.  Hiking  jogging, or riding a bike even many feet behind an infected person could expose you to the virus so it is still a good idea to avoid being around people you can’t be sure are safe.

The good news is there is now a vaccine!  It isn't widely available yet and is currently only released as with provisional FDA emergency approval.  However, it has been successfully tested on more than 15,000 people,  The first round of vaccinations are going to front line medical personnel and high risk environments (doctors, first responders, and assisted living facilities).  Hopefully the introduction of a vaccine will mean the pandemic will soon be over and things can get back to "normal", whatever THAT means these days!  There is talk of the "new normal"; my wife calls it the '"new ab-normal".  I may be a bit cynical, but I tend to agree with her.

Hang in there!  This won’t last forever!

Trailer Towing Tips

Those of you who regularly pull a boat or travel trailer probably already know about all you need to know about towing.  But for those who are new to towing or who only tow boats or trailers occasionally, you might find some value in the tips in this post.

Trailers can be a useful addition to just about any outdoor enthusiast's resources.  As your family grows and/or your accumulation of equipment increases, you may exceed the cargo capacity of your regular vehicle.  When you do, a trailer can conveniently add lots of additional load carrying capacity.  Many trailers also add extra capabilities.  Tent trailers, for example, get you up off the cold, bumpy ground and provide quite roomy and comfortable respite from unpleasant weather.  Trailers can carry bikes, tents, OHVs, and all kinds of extra equipment and supplies.  Trailers are often your only option for bringing along boats and personal water craft.

First of all, proper preparation of both the towing vehicle and the towed vehicle is critical.  Towing puts an extra load on just about all parts of the vehicle doing the towing:  engine, transmission, differential, brakes, cooling system and even the suspension and the frame.  ALWAYS be sure the vehicle and the hitch are rated to tow the weight being towed.  I have seen the results of attempting to tow a trailer larger than the towing vehicle is rated to handle.  They range from overheated engines and transmissions to spectacular accidents that totally destroyed both tow vehicle and trailer.  I saw a half-ton pickup towing a 28' travel trailer flipped by high winds like it was light as cardboard.  Both were totally destroyed.  The trailer fell apart to where the only thing left visible above the frame was the generator.  The rest was essentially nothing but kindling.

Avoid overloading your trailer.  You've all likely seen overheated vehicles pulled over on long grades, often the result of overloading.  Overloading will significantly increase fuel consumption and create very real safety hazards, and increase the risk of overheating, especially when negotiating mountain roads.  Many trailers are large enough that they can be easily loaded beyond their safe weight capacity.  Keep track of what you load and don't exceed the maximum weight rating.  Don't forget about how much stuff you might have loaded into you boat when you trailer it.  Boat trailers ideally are capable of handling more than the weight of the boat they are designed to carry but it would be a very good idea to weight your boat and trailer with it fully loaded with equipment and supplies to be sure you aren't exceeding either the trailer or tow vehicle weight rating.

Make sure all the tires on all vehicles, trailer and tow vehicle, are properly inflated and have a safe amount of tread and have not aged out.  Verify engine oil, transmission fluid, and coolant levels on the tow vehicle.  Know the condition of the brakes and wheel bearings and tires on the trailer.  Make certain the hitch you are using is rated to handle the load you'll be towing.  Hitch pins typically come in both 1/2" and 5/8" diameters.  Using a 1/2" hitch pin in a hitch with a 5/8" hole will result in unwanted movement and clunking of the hitch, possibly creating excess wear that may cause a premature failure.  Secure all loads (inside and out) so they won't be blown around at highway speeds or tossed around during changes in speed or direction.

Towing means you will need to make adjustments to your normal driving patterns.  First of all, your combined vehicle length and weight will be greater than you are used to and you need to compensate, -- slowing down earlier, giving yourself more room for accelerating, turning, lane changes, and stopping.  It may be difficult to judge when it is safe to pull back in after passing another vehicle when you have something in tow.  If necessary, err on the side of caution and give yourself plenty of room.  If someone towing a trailer passes you, you can help them by flashing your lights when it is safe for the to pull in front of you.

You also need to pay attention to what you are towing while you are towing.  Frequently check your rear view mirrors or backup camera.  A significant change in the side to side angle may indicate a flat tire.  Flat tires may also cause smoking and a rumbling feeling transmitted through the hitch.  If you suspect a flat tire, slow down and find a safe place to pull over as soon as possible.  Better safe than sorry.  If you don't find anything wrong,  you will have only lost a few minutes, but if you fail to pull over you will greatly magnify the potential damage.  Left unattended,  a flat tire can cause significant damage to a trailer and perhaps to other vehicles following or passing you.  One careless driver started wildfires all across Idaho and Washington because he continued to drive with a burning tire!  He was held liable for millions of dollars worth of damage and fire fighting costs.

Avoid sway.  Swaying can be caused by a number of things.  Wind often plays a significant part as do gust from passing trucks.  An anti-sway bar help reduce sway.  It consists of a friction bar between the hitch and the trailer tongue that dampens sway.  Having too little weight on the tongue can increase the risk of sway.  Make sure the weight on your trailer is properly distributed.  Boats with outboard motors hanging off the back shift a lot of weight off the tongue so removing the motor and carrying it in the tow vehicle or in the cockpit of the boat will help with weight distribution.  Our sailboat started swaying really badly on the way to the lake just 1 mile from home.  One of the wooden bunk boards that supported the boat had broken, letting boat fall down onto the fender, pushing it into the tire and creating significant drag on that side. If your trailer starts to sway, slow down until it stabilizes.   Pull over as soon as you can find a safe place to do so.  Try to determine what triggered it to start swaying.  Things to consider:  over steering, wind gusts, un-level roads, poorly distributed weight.  There isn't much you can do about roads or winds except slow down so they have less effect but if you caused the problem by over-correcting, speeding, or changing lanes too quickly, learn your lesson, drive prudently, and always make  small, smooth, slow changes.  If weight distribution appears to be a factor, shift some of the load to put more weight on the tongue.  If  you have a sway bar, try tightening it down more to increase the amount of friction inside of it.   Anti-sway bars typically have two parts.  One slides inside the other.  One is hooked to the hitch, the other to the trailer tongue.  One of the parts includes a friction material like that used on brakes.  There is a lever that adjust the amount of pressure and thus the amount of friction within the sway bar.  Note that sway bars on boat trailer might get wet and be less effective until they dry out.

Slow down!  The extra weight puts more strain on your tow vehicle and can seriously affect handling.  Trailers are more likely to sway or fishtail at higher speeds.  Maintaining a slower speed reduces the risk of fishtailing.  If you see or feel your trailer start to swerve behind you slow down right away!  You may have seen the speed limits U-haul imposes when you rent their trailers.  That has come from years of experience and hundreds of thousands of miles of towing.   In some states, such as California, vehicles towing trailers are limited to 55 mph, even on freeways with much higher normal speed limits.  In addition, slow down right away at the first sign of trouble.  If your trailer starts to sway, you feel an unusual vibration, hear strange sounds, or see smoke near the wheels and tires, slow down and pull over and locate and correct the problem before it becomes catastrophic.

State laws governing towing may differ so be sure you understand the limitations before you find yourself getting pulled over.   Some states have limitations or restrictions on passengers riding in a travel trailer.   Where is allowed it often requires two-way communication such as walkie talkies or some kind of intercom between the trailer and the driver of the tow vehicle.  Overall length and weight limits may also vary.  Some states prohibit towing more than one trailer while in others it may be permitted.  California, for example, prohibits towing more than one trailer but when I moved to Utah it wasn't unusual to see a large pickup pulling a travel trailer pulling a boat.

When is a trailer not a trailer?  In California where towing multiple trailers is prohibited I saw one-wheeled motorcycle trailers being legally pulled behind travel trailers.  That is because the one-wheeled "trailer" was not "articulated", that is, it was connected to the tow vehicle in at least two places, making it legally an extension of the tow vehicle instead of a trailer.

Trailer licensing varies from state to state also.  Some states required license plates on all trailers.  Some only required them on trailers over a certain loaded weight.  Trailer licenses typically follow the same renewal pattern as motor vehicles, but not always.  When I lived in California they introduced a "Perpetual Trailer License" that did not have to be renewed each year.  Typically you will be OK if the license status of your trailer is proper for the state of your residence, allowing, for example, an Oregon resident to tow a light weight, unlicensed trailer with his/her Oregon licensed vehicle and driver's license in another state even if that state requires all trailers to be licensed.

Tow away!

Boat Insurance

Boat insurance is usually required if you keep your boat in a marina and, like auto insurance or rv insurance, provides liability protection in case of an accident, and may protect your investment in your boat.  Liability insurance protects you and the marina operator and your fellow boaters if there is an accident in the marina or on the water.  Requiring liability insurance also protects you by making sure other boaters have coverage should they cause an accident that damages your boat or injures you.   So the insurance requirement is both understandable and reasonable.  Including comprehensive or "full coverage" protects you by paying for the damage to your boat if  you are at fault in an accident or the boat is damaged by storms, uninsured boaters, etc.  and is usually required by the lender if your boat is financed.   If someone else is at fault when your boat is damaged they should be liable for repairing your boat.

One thing I noticed when I purchased our boat insurance was it asked for a "declared value" for the boat.   The declared value will be the most the insurance company will pay out if your boat is totaled.  You may want to verify the value of your boat from time to time.  I used what I had seen as asking prices for similar boats to determine the value of my boat, but that was prior to investing a considerable amount of time and money in fully restoring both the boat and the trailer.  Once that was done I should have increased the "declared value".   A couple of years later a problem with the trailer dumped our 24' sailboat onto the pavement on the way to the lake, destroying both the mast and the swing keel.  Since it is a vintage boat, replacement parts are somewhat difficult to come by and the estimated cost of repairs quickly exceeded the "declared value" of the policy.   Re-evaluating the value at the time of annual renewal to account for the reconditioning might have given us a larger margin for repairs or replacement.   The real market value of a boat is likely to change over time.  Usually, like most other personal assets, it will probably depreciate.  A lower declared value might lower your annual premiums, but not always.  The default for declared value when I insured my boat was $10,000.  I reduced the declared value, hoping to lower my premium, but the premium remained the same and at that point the web page wouldn't let me change the declared value back to the default!    If, by chance, your boat increases in value due to improvements or market demand, you will want to increase the declared value to ensure adequate coverage to repair or replace it if something does happen to it.  If you can't do it on the web, call an insurance agent.

Boat  insurance may also include an allowance for personal property.  This allowance covers anything you might have in the boat -- clothing, bedding, tools, special equipment etc.  It would behoove you to keep a record of the personal property together with receipts or other proof of cost in case it is lost or damaged in an accident.  The electronic navigation equipment and other modern electronic amenities are often quite pricey, so having receipts showing the value is worth the hassle if you ever need to file a claim.

The amount you have to pay for boat insurance will depend on several factors, including but not limited to the type and value of your boat and where it is normally kept along with the coverage you select.  You probably won't find as many carriers who offer boat insurance as there are that offer automobile insurance, but you should still be able to shop around to get the best value.  Always look at the coverage as well as the premiums.  Getting the lowest price does not always mean you are getting the best value.

On the water towing is an option often offered along with your insurance.  Before paying for on the water towing, make sure such services are available where you use your boat.  You will probably find them at most ocean harbors but they are less frequently found on inland lakes.  No sense paying extra for a service you can never use!

Making a claim is about the same as making a claim on your auto insurance.  Call the phone number on your insurance card.  You will need your policy number, the year, make, and model of your boat, the date, time, and location of the accident, a detailed description of the accident, and the names and phone numbers of any witnesses.  You may also be asked for a police or law enforcement case number so the incident should be immediately reported to the proper authorities.  In many cases making a claim can increase your future premiums so you don't want to file a claim for trivial damage, even if you have a zero or low deductible.  If your boat is financed the lender will want to make sure it is properly repaired.

Insurance is good to have if something unexpected happens.  But, of course, it is always better to avoid accidents in the first place.  Keep all of your equipment in good repair and inspect it before each use.  Avoid operating your boat or towing it when under the influence of alcohol, drugs, or medication or when you are unusually tired or stressed.  Always be alert to conditions around you and plan ahead for what you will do if something threatening occurs.  Our accident was caused by failure of one of the bunk boards the boat rested on on the trailer.  They were only two years old and I had upgraded them from the original 2x4's to pressure treated 2x6's for an extra margin of safety.  Why one of them failed is still unknown, as they were made of treated lumber and were largely protected from weather since installation.  Perhaps a defect in the integrity of the tree they were cut from I guess.  Maybe a closer inspection of the boards when I purchased them might have prevented the accident -- if the flaw was visible.

Ensure that you are properly insured!