Spring Camping

Spring camping is almost a no-brainer:  we are usually very anxious to get out again after a winter in hibernation.  However, there are a few things that make spring camping different from the more frequent summer outings.  First off, don't let the cabin fever you've built up being shut in all winter stir you to jump too quickly into action.  Although we are all anxious to get out again, taking time to make sure both you and your equipment are properly prepared for that first spring outing will pay long term dividends in comfort and safety.

Spring is an ideal time for many camping and other outdoor recreational activities.  After a winter off, most of us are beginning to experience the affects of cabin fever and need to get out.  The weather is usually mild, not too hot, not too cold.  Trails are usually in fairly good condition, unless you head out so early they haven't been cleared of winter windfalls or dried out enough to be usable.  You will want to check on trail status before leaving home.  Sometimes trails will be closed for a while due to blockages, snow, or mud.  Hiking trails are usually less affected than OHV trails.  Going around a closed sign on your OHV is a real no-no!  You are very likely to do permanent damage to the trail and that may result in serious damage to your machine, serious injures, and perhaps a permanent closure of the trail.  Trespassing onto a closed trail you may find yourself and your vehicle in difficult or dangerous situations that can easily result in serious damage and/or injuries.  Just because the trail looks OK as far as you can see from the gate/trailhead, doesn't mean it is OK further along.  It will be well worth the wait to ride when the trail has been officially opened.  You might contact the local ranger station and volunteer to help with trail work so more trails can be opened sooner.  Trail work might include clearing fallen trees, erosion control, and repairing bridges and washouts.  It might also include checking and adding or repairing signage or sometimes even re-routing trails where major damage may have occurred during the winter.

Chances are your spring trip will be the first time you have used your RV or OHV or boat in some time.  You will want to make sure both you and your equipment are prepared and take a little extra time to warm up.  Engines and drive trains that have been idle over the winter need time for lubricants to circulate before putting any significant stress on them.  Drivers often need to refresh their memories of what it like to drive an RV, OHV or boat after months behind the wheel of a daily driver.  Take it easy until you and your vehicle have "shaken off the cobwebs".

Spring is the perfect time for a shakedown cruise to check out new vehicles and equipment.  You will likely have days that are warm enough to test air conditioner in your RV or other transport and nights that are comfortably cool enough for campfires and to verify operation of furnaces and heaters.

Spring often gives you an opportunity to enjoy wildflower displays in many locations.  We even found some glorious wildflowers blooming in the Mojave Desert during some spring outings there in areas usually thought to be quite barren.  It might be worth doing a little online research to identify areas and timing for opportunities in or near places you normally visit.

Spring camping is a perfect cure for the cabin fever that we often experience during the winter.  Get out and get going.  Get some fresh air.  Exercise both your equipment and your body.  In many places spring avoids some of the air pollution that plagues places during the summer months when air tends to stagnate.  Occasional spring showers contribute to an awesome environment for camping and outdoor activities.  You might want bring along some rain gear and indoor rainy day activities.

Spring has definite advantages for OHV riders.  First of all, the temperatures are usually mild so it isn't too hot for riding, making riding more pleasant for you and less stress on your machine.   In many cases the ground may still be little damp, minimizing dust and maximizing traction.  Some areas may still be green!  I have seen trails we rode in November completely overgrown by April.  Spring runoff might even create temporary water crossings, so be sure you know how to handle them safely and without damaging you, your machine, or the environment.

Spring is a great time for a shake down cruise to make sure you and all of your gear and equipment are in optimum condition for another season of activity.  Try to try out all your equipment so you can discover any needed repairs or replacements and get them done in time to let you enjoy a full camping season. 

Spring into action!

Cruise Control on RVs and Tow Vehicles

Cruise control is a useful tool for drivers of both motorhomes and tow vehicles as well as the family car.  The primary purpose of cruise control is to maintain a preselected speed and relieve the driver from having to constantly maintain pressure on the gas pedal.  On long drives that pressure often results in leg cramping and stiffness which can not only show up in the leg on the accelerator pedal, but is also often transmitted up into the buttocks and lower back.  Using cruise control can allow the driver to be a little more relaxed.  To the extent that relieves stress, its a good thing, but you certainly don't want to become so relaxed that you get apathetic or drowsy!  Avoiding leg cramps is definitely a good thing.  Using cruise control is said to improve gas mileage too.  Generally it does since most people can't or don't maintain steady pressure on the accelerator and the cruise control does.

Cruise control can usually help get better fuel economy.  Each time you press down on the acclerator pedal the fuel system dumps gas into the engine.  You might be surprised how often you press down on the accelerator, even when you are trying to simply maintain a steady speed.  Cruise control minimizes these surges and allows the engine to operate more efficiently.  However, cruise control can be problematic when towing a heavy trailer or negotiating hills.  Many drivers of heavy vehicles like to "get a run" at steep or long hills and cruise control cannot anticipate upcoming hills.  It can only react when the hill has already slowed you down.  Drivers who routinely maintain a steady foot on the accelerator won't see as much mileage improvement as those who tend to surge and back off frequently.  I once had a construction supervisor whose inconsistency on the gas pedal was enough to make his passengers car sick.  It was enough to cause his passengers to rock forward and back rather strongly.  Fortunately I wasn't susceptible to motion sickness but other employees were. Riding with him was not comfortable.  He would have seen significantly better mileage by using cruise control (and probably avoided passengers vomiting in his truck!).

Why does cruise control improve gas mileage?  For one thing, each time you press down on the accelerator it dumps extra gas into the engine.  Avoiding frequent and often unnecessary movement avoids this extra fuel usage.  Some years ago I recall seeing something called an "Econometer" that supposedly helped drivers improve gas mileage.  It was a dial with green, yellow, and red segments and the goal was to keep the needle in the green as much as possible to get the best possible gas mileage.  How did this work?  Well, what it really was, was a vacuum gauge.  Low vacuum occurs when the engine is under load, so maintaining a steady throttle (high vacuum) and avoiding putting load on the engine improves gas mileage.  Most drivers will get better mileage using cruise control but there are a few professional drivers who have actually been able to get better mileage without it.  So, you may hear stories about cruise control not delivering as advertised but you will want to test your own vehicle and your own skills before you make up your mind for your situation.

Cruise control should NOT be used on wet, snowy, or icy roads.  It should be apparent that you shouldn't use it on snowy or icy roads but some people have tried to use it in the rain, usually much to their dismay!  It has been demonstrated that cruise control, attempting to maintain speed on slick or even just roads, can sometimes cause you to loose control  of your vehicle.  Even a little rain can be enough to cause problems.  The coefficient of friction between your tires and wet road is about half of that on dry roads.  In addition, vehicles tend to hydroplane on wet roads.  When that happens you aren't driving on the pavement, you are driving on top of the water on the pavement and you have very little traction and even less control.  Because of lack of traction, the speed doesn't increase as it normally does when the cruise control opens the throttle, so it opens it more and more and when it eventually does get traction, the reaction is sudden and much more than needed, sending the vehicle out of control.  The classic debunking website snopes.com lists this as TRUE. So, if it starts to rain or snow, or even if the roads are just wet, shut off cruise control!

It is not usually a good idea to use cruise control when driving in hilly country.  The cruise control cannot anticipate upcoming grades the way a human driver can and will NOT downshift to help maintain a safe speed when descending hills.  The cruise control is likely to be constantly having to adjust when operated going up and down hills, completely negating any mpg savings, causing unusual wear and tear on the components, and possibly causing unwanted changes in speed.  I once had a cruise control cause an unwanted downshift that jerked a trailer so hard it snapped the hitch pin!  Fortunately the safety chains kept the trailer from getting away and we were able to stop safely and get a new hitch pin.  I now avoid using cruise control when pulling a trailer!  Many vehicle manufacturers discourage using cruise control when towing, except on flat stretches of road.

I've seen drivers use the cruise control buttons like manual driving controls instead of using the gas pedal.  While I have no hard evidence that this isn't a good thing to do, common sense tells me it isn't.  There is usually some delay as the cruise control responds to input to accelerate or slow down, a delay the "real" driver doesn't normally introduce and I seriously doubt such use will provide the fuel economy benefits of setting the cruise control and leaving it alone.  If nothing else it puts extra wear and tear on all the components of the cruise control and could cause premature failure.  I do not recommend using cruise control in heavy traffic.  The speed changes too often and the potential for another vehicle suddenly cutting you off and forcing you to slow quickly is too great.  Cruise control cannot anticipate nor even react to such things.  Also using cruise control in this manner puts unusual loads on the switches and motors that make it work, possibly causing malfunctions and/or premature failure.   Cruise control is best used on the open road when traffic is light and/or flowing smoothly.

Cruise control is usually installed as a factory option.    There are companies who make aftermarket kits that are reported to be fairly easy to install and not too expensive.  Just replacing an existing cruise control switch will run around $150 in labor so that gives you some idea of the starting place for the cost or labor involved in installing a new kit.   If you are looking for the cruise control to improve gas mileage to save money, be sure to count all the cost of parts and labor to figure out how long it will take for it to pay for itself.  However, if you want it for convenience or to relief some of the muscle cramps of long road trips you don't have to worry about whether the mpg savings will be enough.  Just count any savings as a nice bonus!

There are many anecdotes about naive drivers treating cruise control like an "auto pilot".   Hopefully, none of them are true, but in the interest of a little humor I will retell the story of the RV driver who wrecked his brand new motorhome after he set the "auto pilot" and went back to make a sandwich or a cup of coffee! Other variations include the driver who got in the back seat of his sedan to take a nap and the woman who went back in her van to care for her crying baby after setting the cruise control. Not surprisingly, snopes.com lists these as LEGEND.   They are, however, useful to warn people about the using their cruise controls incorrectly.

There are devices sometimes dubbed "cruise control" for ATVs.   In reality they are just devices that lock the throttle in position.  As long as you ride on level ground with consistent road conditions you will maintain a relatively steady speed but it won't adjust like a real cruise control when you go up or down hills.  You will slow down going up hills and speed up going down.  ATVs with such a device should also be equipped with a "deadman" kill switch to shut the engine off if the rider falls off so the vehicle doesn't continue speeding away.  Some early automobiles, like the Model A Ford had throttle lever on the steering column that could be set to maintain a constant throttle but you won't see them on modern vehicles.

Cruise along!

Are You Ever Too Old for RVing, OHVing, or Camping?

Are you ever too old for RVing, OHVing, or camping?  I suppose there may come a time when physical or neurological limitations may interfere with camping and off road activities.  But unless your doctor has issued restrictions or you have severe disabilities that would make camping or riding unhealthy, uncomfortable, or dangerous to you or others, there is no reason you shouldn't keep on going out as long as you feel like doing it.  I have a friend in his late 70's who still organizes and leads two week-long dirt bike rides in Mexico every year.  To celebrate my own 70th birthday this year my wife and I spent several days camping and riding in the west desert of Utah around Chimney Rock Pass, logging more than 50 miles of trail riding on our dirt bikes.  That birthday celebration also gave me a chance to confirm that "A potato baked in the campfire for one hour makes and excellent side dish".  I have no plans to confirm the second part of that saying (i.e., that "A potato baked in the campfire for three hours makes an excellent hockey puck".)  I'll take that on faith!

As you mature you may modify your riding style or even switch from dirt bikes to ATVs or side-by-sides, but in general there is no good reason to abandon your sport entirely just because the calendar says you're getting older.  How you are old is more important than how old you are!  I believe you don't stop riding (or camping) because you get old; you get old because you stop riding (or camping).  I  admit I have been forced to acknowledge that my body doesn't heal as readily as it once did so I try harder to avoid crashing.  That means I'm a little less adventurous than I once was, a little more cautious.  I have even found that the ground comes up a lot faster and harder when I jump down from my pickup truck than it used to.  One of my riding buddies was once asked why he didn't take up golf.  His reply:  "Because I can still get my leg over my motorcycle!"  I must admit I came back to camp from one particularly tiring technical ride in the Mojave Desert several years ago and announced that "I think I need some new shocks -- and my bike could probably use some new ones too!"

"You don't stop riding because you get old.  You get old because you stop riding."  is one of my favorite quotes and one I firmly believe in.  Of course you could substitute "RVing" or"camping" or any number of pleasant and popular activities for "riding", but any way you cut it, giving up on the things you like to do will age you much faster than the mere passage of time.  My grandfather was fond of saying "A man will rust out quicker than he'll wear out" and I've seen plenty of folks "retire" to a life of leisure as couch potatoes who didn't last very long.  I know one gentleman who, upon retiring, parked himself in front of the TV and refused to do anything more physical than lifting the remote control and within just a few months had to trade his favorite easy chair for a wheel chair which was, in turn, was all too soon exchanged for a coffin.  One evening when visiting my Dad in Oregon I helped him haul 30 bales of hay on his little Datsun pickup and stack them for the calf they were raising.   We felt pretty proud of our accomplishment.  The next day we drove to Idaho to visit my Grandfather who, at 88, we discovered, had spent the morning hauling 80 bales of hay and storing them in the loft of his neighbor's barn -- by himself!  Dad and I just shared a knowing look and said nothing about our puny efforts the night before.  BTW, Grandpa was not a big husky fellow, but he was strong and in incredibly good shape for his age.  He was only 4'11" tall.  I like to tell people I come from a long line of short people (my Dad was 5'3").  I'm a more average 5'8" or at least I was well into my 70's.

As we age we do need to consider the physical changes our bodies are going through.   Our bones are more brittle and it takes longer to heal from sprains and road rash.  Our muscles may not be quite as strong or as resilient.  So it is only prudent to exercise a little more caution in our outdoor activities.  But that doesn't mean we have to curtail them entirely.  As a dirt bike rider I find I  have lost interest in doing the huge jumps that were, at one time, appealing, but I still thoroughly enjoy trail riding and flying through the whoops!  Of course I am almost obsessive about wearing all my body armor!  And, when it comes to camping and RVing, there are few, if any restrictions imposed by age, unless your doctor shuts you down.  You may need to limit activity when  you are recovering from illnesses or surgeries that are more common as we grow older, but often our health benefits by maintaining regular participation in the things we like to do.  Be wise.   Let your body, not the calendar, tell you what you can and can't do.  Of course, if the DMV pulls your driver's license, you may have to let someone else drive your RV or chauffer you to camp.

My wife and I are in our 70s now and are grateful to still be in good health and able to participate in our favorite outdoor activities.  I must say the concept restricting activities because of "getting old" has been more and more on our minds.   However, we still believe you don't stop riding/camping/sailing because you get old, you get old because you stop riding/camping/sailing.  We do make adjustments to our routines to minimize the risks that could be associated with the physical and mental limitations that can develop as we age, but we aren't ready to sell all our toys and covert to couch potatoes.  But everyone is different.  We have  a friend who is just a few years older whose family just put him in assisted living last week.  He had been fairly active until just a few months ago and has gone down hill surprisingly fast.  For us it is simply a reminder that you never know what the future will bring and perhaps a prompting to be more aware of changes as they occur

Don't let the calendar -- or anyone else except maybe your doctor or the DMV -- tell you when to stop enjoying your favorite outdoor activities.   You (or your doctor) should be the only ones to set limits.  And even if your doctor wants to limit your activities, make sure you understand and agree with his reasoning.  Some physicians tend to be over cautious and may not understand the value of your chosen ways of keeping active.  I could count on understanding from my chiropractor in California.  He was a fellow dirt rider and sometimes raced vintage dirt bikes, but not all doctors have an appreciation for the OHV lifestyle.

Keep on keeping on!

Dump Valve Maintenance and Repair

Dump valves are pretty reliable unless they freeze or get damaged by mishandling or impact with something.   However, they will sometimes need repair or replacement in normal use due to ordinary wear and tear on the seals or getting debris trapped as they are closed.  You can also break the internal slide or bend the shaft if you don't pull and push the valve straight in and out.  If you discover sewage accumulated inside the dump cap between dumps, you probably have one or more leaking valves, assuming you closed them correctly and completely the last time you used them.  The color and smell of the accumulated fluid will tell you which valve is leaking.  Foul smelling stuff that is blue, green, or brown is coming from the black water tank.  Some holding tank chemicals might even turn it orange!  Grayish, soapy water that is nearly odorless is from the gray water tank. The black water valve will  be large, 3" valve.  The gray water valve may also be a 3" valve but on some rigs it is a smaller, 1 1/2" valve.  Having a clear plastic dump cap instead of a black one will let you see if there is anything behind the cap before you open it allowing you to avoid a nasty surprise.  Always make sure both valves are fully pushed in before deciding you have a problem with the seals.  Sometimes a bit of debris may get caught in the valve when it closes causes it to leak until it is opened and flushed again.  You may be able to clear debris from seals using a brush or carefully cleaning the groove with a bent wire.  A persistent leak is a strong indicator that the seals need to be replaced  Having a clear plastic dump cap will let you see if there is leakage before you open the camp and get doused with nasty stuff.  Having a dump cap with a hose fitting allows you to slowly and easily drain the accumulated sewage safely into the dump hose or a container before you open the cap and get a big uncontrolled "whoosh" of nasty stuff all over you and the ground.  The space between the valves and the cap can usually hold a quart or two of nasty leakage.  Dump your tanks before attempting to work on the valves.  After you get home from dumping and parked where you're going to be working on them, put a container under the valves and remove the outer cap and open the valves and leave them open for a while to let everything drain out and stop dripping.  This will help avoid getting sewage up your sleeve or dripping in your face while working on the valves.

Sometimes you can clean debris from the seals by carefully scraping the groove with a bent piece of wire.  Be gentle and careful if you try this.  You only want to remove the debris and must avoid damaging the soft rubber seal.  Often even soft debris that has been stuck for some time may have already damaged the seals, forcing you to replace them to correct the problem.

To avoid problems with your dump valves, always pull and push the handles straight.   Any angle on the handle could bend the shaft, damage the seals, or crack the slide.  Once any of these things has happened you will have to replace the valve.  Fortunately they aren't very expensive (around $20 each at even higher priced RV parts stores and even less at discount outlets) and they are usually pretty easy to change.

Always wear protective rubber, nitrile, or vinyl gloves when working with sewer hoses and dump valves  to avoid exposure to chemicals and nasty waste products.  Then thoroughly wash your hands after you have removed and discarded the gloves.  Coveralls are a good idea too, and be sure to wash and disinfect your work clothing when you're done, especially if there was any spillage.

Sometimes the problem is due to worn seals, which can be replaced without replacing the entire valve.  However the effort is pretty much the same whether you're replacing just the seals or the entire valve.   Seal kits will be a little less expensive than complete valves but since the valves are fairly inexpensive, I prefer to replace them rather than just change the seals to avoid any extra labor if just changing the seals doesn't solve the problem.  Some valves can only use their own branded seals and if you get the wrong ones, they will leak.  That is one reason I prefer to replace the whole valve so I don't have to worry about matching old seals.  You'll need to dump and flush the holding tanks before beginning any repair.  The valves are blade valves that are fastened between flanges on either side -- one on the outlet from the tank and one on the pipe that leads to where you attach the dump hose.  They are secured by 4 bolts -- one in each corner of the square part of the flange on the valve.  Remove the 4 bolts, then carefully pull out the valve.  Remove the old seals and clean the flanges.  Install the new seals on the flanges.  Make sure to put the large end of the seal over the lip on the flange.  Then very carefully slip the valve (new or old) into place, taking care not to dislodge or distort the seals.  This can be tricky.  Replace and tighten all 4 bolts and you should be good to go.  New valves should come with new bolts, another benefit of replacing the valve and not just the seals.  Always hold the nut and tighten or loosen the bolt head because the nut is knurled to prevent it from slipping.  Turning the nut will grind the surface of the valve.  Tighten the bolts until the heads begin to bite into the plastic flange.  Once the bolts are tightened, close the valve to make sure it operates smoothly.  If there is any resistance or it won't close completely the seals have probably slipped and you'll need to take it out and reinstall them properly.   At least partially fill the tank with clean water to test the installation.  Sometimes (often) the old bolts will be so badly rusted you can't unscrew them to disassemble the valve.  If there is room you may be able to cut the bolts using a hacksaw or a die grinder with a metal cutoff blade.  Since you will be replacing the old valve you can cut right through the valve itself.  Cut the the center of the bolt through the middle of the flange of the valve itself and be careful not to damage the flanges on either side of the old valve.  The flange on the valve itself should provide enough buffer to prevent you from damaging the flanges on the tank and pipe.  If you damage those other flanges you'll have a lot more to repair!

Some small leaks might be temporarily repaired using a wet patch roofing tar.  This is not a suitable permanent repair.  The underlying cause must be diagnosed and repaired, but if there is a small drip around the junction of the valve body and the flanges it mounts to, sealing it with tar might let you finish a trip and then make appropriate permanent repairs when you get home.  Using wet patch sealant avoids having to wait until the tanks are drained and dried.  Wet patch roofing tar is intended to be used in rainy conditions and may not be resistant to the chemicals and other contaminants in sewage.  While it may stick to wet surfaces, it may not stick to greasy, soapy surfaces or those contaminated with human waste and holding tank chemicals.  Clean the surface as well as you can before attempting to apply wet patch.  I  like Henry's wet patch cement, available in 10 oz tubes to fit a caulking gun at most home centers.

Maintaining dump valves mostly consists of keeping them lubricated so they operate smoothly without any tearing or excessive wear.  Lubricate the shaft of the valve with a silicone spray.  DO NOT use WD40 as it will dissolve the grease that helps seal around the shaft and will make the valve harder to open and close.  The plastic "paddle" that actually opens and closes usually doesn't require any direct lubrication but some holding tank treatments contain valve lubricants or you can buy special valve lubricant to put into your holding tanks.  Valve lubricant is usually dumped down the toilet when the tank is empty so it goes directly to the valve.  You will have to put lubricant down a sink or shower drain to lubricate gray water valves.  Choose the drain closest to the gray water tank and put it in when the tank is empty.  You may want to open and close the valves a time or two to get the lubricant into the seals before adding waste to the tanks.

Dump valves may have metal or plastic handles.  These handles sometimes get bent or broken, especially the plastic ones.  If the valve is otherwise in good shape, the handles are easily replaceable.  Open the valve, then grip the shaft with cloth protected pliers to avoid damaging the shaft, while twisting the handle to remove it.  Then screw on the new handle and tighten it and close the valve.

Some dump valves are located away from the outside edge of the RV and are operated via extension cables.  If you have valves that are difficult to reach you may be able to replace them with cable operated valves for added convenience.  When replacing existing valves with cable operated valves, use new Bladex/Valterra valves.  They are specially designed to operate easily with cables.  Follow the installation instructions carefully to ensure proper operation. Some ultra-luxury units even have electrically operated dump valves.  To me that is overkill and unless you have physical problems that prevent you bending over to reach the dump valves or to pull the handles, I don't think it is worth the expense and it introduces extra electro-mechanical parts that can be additional points of failure. If you have cable or electrically operated valves, make sure to push the handles all the way in when you are done flushing your tanks.   For some reason it seems easier to forget to close them than it is to close the directly operated valves and the results can be very nasty the next time you take the cap off the dump port to connect your sewer hose!  It may be harder to tell if cable operated valves are fully closed because there is some flexibility in the cable, altering the "feel" you get when closing valves with direct handles.  Always close all valves with a firm, smooth, quick motion to ensure the valve is fully closed.  If you encounter resistance there may be debris interfering with the operation.  Open the valve and inspect the seals and remove any debris before trying again.

Dump it!

Hydration for Camping, Boating, and OHVing

Maintaining adequate hydration while camping and involved in related activities, such has hiking, OHV riding, boating, hunting, fishing, horseback riding, is essential to both comfort and good health.  Because of lot of our camping and related activities take place in warm or even hot weather, our hydration requirements are usually greater than normal.  However, hydration is still an important factor colder times.  You will still lose body fluids through respiration and perspiration even when the outside temperatures dip well below freezing.  The effects of dehydration can range from discomfort to coma and even death!  If you find yourself feeling really lethargic in hot weather, you probably aren't drinking enough water.  If your urine is more yellow than clear, you are definitely starting to get dehydrated.  When you start feeling thirsty you are beginning to get dehydrated.

It  may seem kind of counter-intuitive, but you can easily get dehydrated even when involved in water based activities.   Just because you are on or even in the water doesn't mean you are getting enough inside.  Even when boating or swimming you will need to drink plenty of water to stay hydrated and maintain your mental capacities and the strength you need for your activities.  If you happen to swimming in fresh, pure water you might be able to just take a few swallows now and then to quench your thirst.  But in salt water or water that isn't suitable for drinking you will need to bring along your own supply.  Most of us don't wear apparel for swimming that is conducive to carrying water so you should plan regular breaks to get a drink from a canteen, water bottle, or hydration pack you have close by in your vessel or on shore.

How much water should you drink?  You have probably been told to drink 8 glasses of water per day.  I'm not sure where that came from but I have heard it is NOT accurate.  The truth is that each person's need for water is different and even your need will be different from day to day, depending on activity, diet, medications,weather etc.  One starting point for determining how much water you need is to multiply your weight by 2/3 to get the number of ounces of water you should drink every day.  However that, even at best, is just a starting point.  A better guideline for whether you are drinking the right amount of water is the color of your urine.  If your urine is usually clear, you may be drinking more water than you need.  If it is dark yellow, you are definitely not drinking enough water.  Pale yellow urine probably indicates you are getting about the right amount of water.  If you are out camping and engaged in strenuous activities like hiking, swimming, or riding an OHV, keep an eye on the color or your urine and if it is darker or smells stronger than usual, drink more water.

It is not very common but is is possible to drink too much water.  When this happens it is called hypnoatremia or water intoxification.  Drinking too much water flushes the electrolytes out of your system and then your body can't really use any water.  Symptoms include drinking when you aren't thirsty, headaches, cramps, swollen lips, nausea, swollen feet and ankles, and even unconciousness or coma.   Treatments may include cutting back on how much water you are drinking, taking diruretics to get rid of excess water, and sodium replacement.  If I thought I was drinking too much water I would first probably switch to sports drinks to try to restore electrolytes in addition to cutting down on fluid intake.  Water intoxification can be serious and may need to be diagnosed and treated by a doctor.  In extreme cases it can even be fatal!  Known fatalities are mostly linked to water tortures but it has been known to occur from someone over drinking water, usually the result of some kind of medical/chemical reaction.  Illegal drugs such as Ecstasy are believed to create unquenchable thirst which can lead to water intoxification.  I have seen elderly people suffer from hypoatremia from simply drinking a lot more water in a day than they are used to consuming.

When you begin to feel thirsty, you are already starting to get dehydrated.  To avoid dehydration start by pre-hydrating your body prior to your activities and then drink plenty of water throughout the day.  When dirt biking we start drinking plenty of water and sports drinks at least the day before our planned rides.   For sure there is a trade off between drinking enough water and too many nocturnal trips to the restroom.  It may take some experimentation to work out what works best for you. Then be sure to drink enough water or sports drinks during your activities the next day. You won't want to "tank up" on liquids just prior to physical activities.  Too often it can cause serious stomach distress which sometimes results in throwing up everything you just drank!  Not pleasant nor a very effective way to stay hydrated.  The best way is to take frequent sips of water or your favorite electrolyte frequently throughout the day.  A hydration pack, like a Camelbak, is a handy way of easily getting the water you need without interrupting what you're doing..While having enough water is the biggest concern, you will also need to maintain a proper balance of electrolytes to ensure comfort, performance, and good health.  One of the most important electrolytes is salt and it is one of the first to get depleted through perspiration.  You can buy salt tablets that are convenient to carry during activities.  How much salt do you need?  That will depend on several factors, including your body size, outside temperature, level of perspiration, and amount of activity.  You might be able to find some guidelines via online research, but it may be best to check with our doctor so you get enough but don't over do it.  Too much salt isn't good for you.  Isn't it interesting that salt is composed of two deadly poisons:  sodium and chlorine.  The scientific name for salt is Sodium Chloride.  Either component taken by itself will kill you but you need the compound to live.  Some researchers believe it is more than a coincidence that the percentage of salt in your bloodstream is almost same as it is in the ocean.  If you become extremely dehydrated and require medical attention, one of the treatments will be to give you a saline solution (salt water) intravenously to quickly restore hydration and electrolyte levels.  However, drinking salt water is not usually a good idea, only if you are experiencing symptoms of dehydration such as heat cramps. Trying to drink salt water to simply quench you thirst will result in stomach problems and even more dehydration as your body works to process the salt.

If you find yourself feeling particularly lethargic or weak during hot weather, you are probably starting to suffer from dehydration.  Drinking plenty of water will probably restore your energy levels.  By the way, as mentioned above, it is best to drink small amounts frequently rather than gulp down a whole bunch at once.  This is especially true if you are involved in vigorous physical activities where a large amount of cold water in your stomach could cause rather severe pain and discomfort.  While ice water is particularly appealing in hot weather you're better off sipping room temperature water when  you start getting dehydrated, but keeping a glass or other container of ice water handy throughout the day may encourage you to drink more.  I even like to crunch and eat the ice, but I was told that might be a symptom of low iron in my blood!

Drink small amounts of fluids frequently, especially during very hot weather and/or strenuous activity.  Don't wait until you feel thirsty and then chug-a-lug a whole lot of liquids.  Maintaining your fluid levels by small drinks throughout the day works much better and you will be far more comfortable.   That's one reason I like to wear a Camelbak style hydration pack when dirt biking -- I can take a few sips of water any time I want.  You REALLY don't want to chug down a quart of cold water and then do something physically demanding, like running or agressively riding a dirt bike or a horse!  That is a good way to feel really sick to your stomach really quickly and you'll be likely to loose everything you drank very quickly through vomiting.  I usually add ice cubes to my Camelbak when I fill it each morning and I wrap it in piece of bubble foil insulation cut from an old windshield sunscreen to help keep it cool out on the trail.  The reflective surface protects the dark fabric from absorbing heat from sunlight and the bubble foam helps keep the bladder cool.  However, it is seldom still icy cold when I consume it on hot desert rides.

What you drink is as important has how much you drink.   Good old water is the best source of hydration, followed by sports drinks that replenish lost electrolytes.  However some sports drinks contain excessive amounts of sugar or artificial sweeteners.  The negative affects of too much sugar are pretty well publicized, but the side affects of artificial sweeteners are less well know.  I have been told that one of man problems with the popular sweetener aspartame is that it blocks the release of lactic acid from the blood stream, creating muscle fatigue.  Avoid high caffeine drinks like colas and avoid alcohol.  The are both diuretics, which speed dehydration.  Soda and beer also contain significant amounts of sugar that can also be unhealthy.

A frequent and painful early symptom of dehydration is heat cramps.  These usually occur in the arms and legs but can affect just about any muscle, like those in your throat or even your tongue.  They are like really bad charlie horses.  For immediate relief try stretching the offending muscle if you can.  Sometimes you may get cramps in both the front and back of your arms or legs and then it is impossible to stretch out one without aggravating the cramping in the other.  When that happens, about all you can do is find the most neutral position and have someone bring you some electrolytes to drink.  We've found that dill pickle juice works very well, especially if you hold some under your tongue before you swallow it so it can be directly absorbed into your bloodstream.  If you don't have pickle juice, drink a little salt water.  A teaspoon or so in a glass of water should be about right.  To avoid heat cramps altogether, drink plenty of water and sports drinks throughout the day to maintain your fluid and electrolyte levels.  Heat cramps usually don't require professional medical assistance but you may have some muscle soreness for a few days.

The next level is heat exhaustion.  The first symptoms of heat exhaustion include heavy sweating, cold, clammy skin, fast pulse, and nausea and vomiting.  It may also include dizziness and headache and may include heat cramps.  If you or someone in your group shows these symptoms, they need to cooled down and given fluids as soon as possible.  Heat exhaustion may require professional medical attention if it is not addressed quickly or goes on too long or the patient doesn't respond to cooling and liquids.

Symptoms of more severe dehydration called heat stroke will include hot dry skin (when you stop perspiring you are dangerously dehydrated and your body can't cool itself).  You may become nauseous, dizzy, and get headaches.  If you or any of your companions exhibit these symptoms, you need to cool them down and get some fluids into them as quickly as possible.  Severe dehydration can lead to unconsciousness, coma, and, eventually, even death.  Douse or spray a severely dehydrated person with cool water and encourage them to sip water.  An unconscious victim will require intravenous liquids so seek medical attention as soon as possible.   Heat stroke typically requires professional medical assistance to avoid serious long term damage.

Avoid dehydration by pre-hydrating before any strenuous activity on hot days and then drinking plenty of water throughout the day.

There are several convenient ways to carry water with you during your activities so you can drink as much as you need throughout the day.  Bottled water comes in handy sizes and a lot of backpacks and fanny packs have special outside compartments to keep them easily accessible.  There are also carriers designed specifically to hold bottled water that can be worn slung over a shoulder or around your neck if you're not wearing a fanny pack or back pack.  Some are even made of neoprene to insulate the bottle to keep the water cooler.  Here are some examples available from Amazon.com. Water bottles come in both single use and multi-use varieties.  When you buy bottled water it normally comes in a disposable container.   Multi-use water bottles usually offer extra features such as being insulated, having closable tops, handy carrying handles, and built-in straws.  There are some reports of toxic chemicals from single use bottles leeching into the water when they are used for an extended period of time.

Canteens have been used for many years by campers, hikers, scouts,soldiers, and cowboys to carry water.   The come in various sizes, shapes, durability, and ways to be carried.  Here is a typical boy scout canteen, with a carrying strap to sling it around your neck and/or over your shoulder:
                                                   


                                                 
Here is an army style canteen that is carried on your belt:




                                                       

Blanket style canteens are often used when horseback riding, but are often used by hikers too.  They come in various sizes ranging from less than a quart to a gallon or more.  The blanket covering can be wet so that evaporation helps cool the contents.  You can carry them via the neckstrap, but if you take advantage of keeping the blanket wet to cool the water you will have wet spot on your clothing where the canteen rests.

                                                    

My favorite water system for outdoor recreational activities like dirt biking is the Camelbak Hydration pack.  These are soft back packs with a vinyl bladder inside and a tube from which you can suck water directly through a "bite valve" that keeps it from leaking out between drinks.  I add a Velcro tab to the bite valve and a mating tab on the center of my chest protector so keep the tube handy for use while riding.  Sometimes it takes some extra glue or even a tiny cable tie to  keep it in place.  If you can't get the Velcro to work, just tuck the bite valve in the side of your chest protector.  Here is an example of a Camelbak hydration pack:

                                                   
If you use a Camelbak you may want to pre-cool it to keep your water cooler longer.  However, don't freeze it.  The ice will block the drinking tube and it will probably be several hours before you will be able to drink from it.  The best way I've found is to empty out any stale water, fill the bladder with ice cubes, then continue filling it with as much water as it will take.  Doing this my 70 ounce Camelbak gives me ice cold water for 8-10 hours even in air temperatures hovering around 100°.  To help keep it cold I wrap the pack itself with a reflective windshield cover.  The reflective surface together with the little bit of foam insulation helps keep heat from both the sun and from my body penetrating the pack and warming the water. 

What hydration system you use will depend on the kind of activities you will be participating in and the budget you have for acquiring a system.  Small canteens are relatively inexpensive; large hydration packs will cost several times as much but will carry more water more conveniently.  The most important thing is that you make sure you always have an adequate supply of water.

You can fill your canteens or hydration packs with water or with sports drinks.  However, if you fill them with sports drinks you will have to make sure you clean them out regularly to avoid spoilage or sticky deposits.   In many, many years of dirt biking in the Mojave Desert I have found water to be the best source of hydration on the trail.  Then I consume some sports drinks when I return to camp to balance my electrolytes.  Water is far more refreshing and avoids the sticky aftertaste that often accompanies sports drinks.  I definitely do not recommend filling canteens or hydration packs with sodas!  First of all, sodas are not ideal sources of hydration, especially if they contain caffeine.  Secondly, the bouncing of the container will make the soda fizz, possibly leaking out and quickly losing all the carbonation so it goes flat.  If you're out on the trail for any time, the contents of your hydration container is going to get warm and warm, flat soda is disgusting and not something you will likely drink very much of.  Water is the best thing to fill your hydration system -- and your body -- with.  It is even still healthy and refreshing when it is luke warm.

Having plenty of good tasting drinks you enjoy on hand is a god way to stave off dehydration.   Water is the very best, with sports drinks that replace lost electrolytes coming in second.  Caffeinated and alcoholic beverages should be way down the list and avoided or used only in moderation.  Both are diurectics that will cause you to lose hydration.  Typical sodas may deliver a lot more calories than you might like to consume while sitting around and relaxing around camp.  Diet sodas probably have artificial sweeteners that can have very unpleasant side effects.  For example, as mentioned above,  the popular sweetener "aspartame", found in many "diet" products, blocks the transfer of lactic acid out of tired muscles.  It is the accumulation of lactic acid that makes your muscles ache and feel fatigued.  Not a good way to recuperate from strenuous activity.

Whatever type of container you use for hydration you will want to keep it clean.   Those used only for water usually need little maintenance unless they have been contaminated.  If the water begins to get cloudy or smell bad, you will want to clean and sanitize your canteen or hydration pack.  A canteen can be sanitized by filling it with water and adding a few drops of unscented chlorine bleach.  Put on the cap, shake it well, and let it stand for a few hours.  Then dump it out and rinse it until the chlorine smell is gone.  Rinsing it with a solution of water and baking soda can speed removal of the chlorine smell.  Hydration packs can be cleaned in essentially the same way but the drinking tubes sometimes require additional cleaning with special little brushes.  You should be able to purchase a hydration pack cleaning kit where ever hydration packs are sold.  They aren't cheap but neither are they terribly expensive and they will make cleaning your hydration pack a lot faster and easier.  Your taste buds will thank you!

Drink up!

Gas versus Diesel

Gas versus diesel powered motorhomes and tow vehicles.  The question always comes up.  And, unfortunately, there is no easy answer.  But there are some distinct advantages and disadvantages to each the potential buyer should be aware of.  Gasoline and diesel engines behave differently, have different strong points and different weaknesses.  Personal preferences play a significant role in choosing between gasoline or diesel powered RVs and tow vehicles.

There have even been long standing debates over whether gasoline or diesel engines or more environmentally friendly.  Unfortunately, there has not been any conclusive answer.  Turns out the issue is more complex than most people could possibly imagine or understand.  Each technology has its benefits and its problems.  Each type of fuel yields different results, with gasoline winning in some categories and diesel in others, but neither can be conclusively declared better than the other in all categories.  And, of course, there are those who simply want to ban the use of ALL fossil fuels, but we will leave that for another discussion.

Gasoline powered vehicles are generally less expensive to purchase than diesel.  Gasoline engines typically deliver more horsepower from a given displacement.  Gasoline engines usually provide faster acceleration  than diesel engines. They are usually less expensive to work on also.  An oil change on a gasoline vehicle is typically around $50 or less.  But they generally get poorer fuel economy and don't have the high torque of diesel engines.  If you have gasoline powered motorsports toys you can use your spare gas in your vehicle if you run low.  I've even burned pre-mix 2-stroke fuel in my truck in a pinch with no negative side effects.  Gasoline powered chassis usually have the engine up front in a "doghouse" between the driver and passengers seats.  For some people the engine noise and heat can be a problem.  You can buy fuel for gasoline vehicles at any gas station, although you sometimes have to look for one with adequate lateral and overhead clearance to accommodate an RV.  Surprisingly enough, many motorhomes run on regular unleaded gasoline but some require more expensive premium fuel.  Be sure to know what your vehicle requires.  If you use a low or mid grade fuel and the engine starts to"ping", upgrade to premium fuel soon, before permanent engine damage can occur.  One cause of pinging is pre-ignition, which means the fuel mixture ignites before the spark plug fires.  This can burn valves, which leads to poor performance and reduced mileage and are expensive to repair.  Gasoline powered vehicles will be subject to annual emissions inspections when the vehicle is registered where such inspections are required.  A poorly tuned engine also creates high levels of pollution (NOX and unburned hydrocarbons) that are really bad for air quality.

Vehicles equipped with diesel engines are more expensive to purchase but the usually deliver better fuel economy, higher torque, and longer life than gasoline engines.   The higher torque of diesels usually means greater load capacity but they may be a bit slower to get going.   Diesel engines are usually more expensive to work on.  Simple oil changes can run $200-$400!  The increased price means it may take a lot of driving to recoup the additional cost in fuel savings or longevity.  If you plan to full time and/or put a lot of miles on your vehicle, a diesel may be advantageous.  At one time diesel fuel was cheaper than gasoline, and that coupled with better fuel economy, reduced fuel costs.  But these days diesel tends to higher than premium gasoline (at least where I live),which doesn't make a lot sense because diesel is made from the dregs left over from refining gasoline.  If you do a lot of boondocking for OHV activities, you may have to carry some extra diesel fuel since the gasoline for your toys is not compatible with diesel engines.  Diesel engines in general are a bit noisier than gasoline engines, not necessarily in the exhaust system, but from direct sounds generated within the engine.  They do not have spark plugs to ignite the fuel.  The fuel is ignited by heat generated from compression.  This can sometimes be heard as a sort of knocking sound, which some people find objectionable.  Some people don't like the smell of diesel exhaust either.  Diesel chassis often have the engine in the rear (known as a "diesel pusher").  On large motorhomes this puts the engine up to 40 feet behind the driver, greatly masking any engine noise.  Finding diesel fuel on the road used to mean looking for truck stops, but the proliferation of gasoline powered automobiles has made diesel much more available.  Yet even today, not all gas stations carry diesel, so you need to check the signs before you pull in.  Make sure you use only the designated diesel pump.  Putting gasoline into your diesel vehicle will cause a lot of problems and can be expensive to remedy.  Motorhomes with diesel engines may have diesel or propane powered generators.  If your camping style is such that you use a lot or propane, you may want to make sure the generator is diesel powered to conserve propane for other uses or carry extra propane.  In some areas subject to emissions inspections, diesel powered vehicles are exempt from emissions inspections.  They will still be required to pass any required safety inspections.  But increasing pressure on air quality is forcing some areas to impose emissions controls on diesels so be sure you know what is required where you will register you vehicle.  Diesel powered vehicles often have higher weight carrying and towing capacities than their gasoline counterparts.  So if having a really big motorhome or being able to tow a really large trailer is important to you, you may want to seriously consider getting a diesel.  Be sure to check the horsepower and torque ratings  and Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating so you can be certain you're getting enough power for satisfactory performance.   All diesels are not alike.  You might be disappointed with the performance of some of the older, smaller diesel engines.

I have owned both gasoline and diesel powered motorhomes and found both to be satisfactory.  I've never full timed or taken long cross-country trips more than a couple thousand miles, so I was never able to take full advantage of the higher fuel economy attributed to diesel vehicles.  My diesel was a 40' pusher, and, due to its size, age, and weight, did not deliver particularly good mpg numbers.  Unfortunately, I also saw diesel fuel climb from cheaper than unleaded regular to more expensive than premium gasoline which quickly negated the cost savings I anticipated when I bought it.  More recently, diesel dropped below regular unleaded again, then bounced back higher than premium so you may have to keep any eye on prices and trends before you make any decision -- and then be prepared for it to flip back and forth over time.

The bottom line:  choose what is right for you each time you make a purchase.   As for me, there are a lot of other key factors that have far more influence on my decision than the type of fuel a vehicle uses.

Choose the right fuel.

The Venerable GM 454 Engine in RVs and Tow Vehicles

Many large gasoline powered motorhomes are fitted with a Chevrolet 454 "big block" V-8 engine.  You will find them on many older Class A's based on the Chevrolet P-30 chassis and on the mor recent Workhorse Chassis.  They are generally quite powerful and reliable, but not particularly stingy when it comes to fuel economy.  I've owned several 454 powered Class As, ranging from 28' to 35' and they all pretty much got about 6-7 mpg -- up hill, down hill, head wind, tail wind, towing a trailer, driving solo, sitting in a parking lot!  A popular saying is that a 454 can pass anything but a gas station.  I like the power of the big block engine in a motorhome, especially when towing my enclosed motorcycle trailer.  I have tried motorhomes and pickups with the smaller 350 engine and found fuel economy was often even worse (especially when towing), while lacking the pulling power of the 454.  By the way, the newer fuel-injetected Vortec engines are quite a bit more fuel efficient than the older carburated models.  I got 16 mpg on my 4WD pickup on a 20 hour winter trip even driving in 4WD through the snow about half the time!

Over the years the 454s have developed a reputation for a few specific issues you may want to watch for if your RV is thus equipped.  For starters, they tend to generate a lot of heat.  The typical solution is to improve the exhaust system, replacing the stock manifolds with headers, enlarging the exhaust pipes, and installing free flow mufflers.  I've seen the stock manifolds on more than one motorhome glowing cherry red after climbing a steep hill.  That kind of heating contributes to warped manifolds causing noisy and dangerous exhaust leaks.  Upgrading the exhaust system will have other benefits beyond getting rid of heat.  A more open exhaust reduces back pressure and lets the engine "breath" better.  I experienced a very dramatic demonstration of the affects of a restricted exhaust system when I blew out the "donut" gasket between the manifold and the exhaust down pipe on one of my 454s.  I was climbing a gentle hill at the time and the motorhome jumped forward like it had been kicked in the butt when that gasket blew out.  A better exhaust is one of the key features of the famous "Banks Powerpack".  Another major component of the Banks upgrade is an improved air input system.  Together these two changes typically deliver both improved performance and better gas mileage, which is a pretty good deal since most performance modifications improve power at the cost of fuel economy or fuel economy at the cost of power.

That heat also translates into well known starter problems.  The starter is necessarily tucked in right under the right exhaust manifold where it is exposed to very high temperatures.  The most common symptom is hard starting when the engine is hot.  The starter binds up inside and can't overcome the internal resistance with enough force to turn the engine over.  Over time, the problem further damages the starter so it doesn't work well anytime.  After market high performance and geared starters are available and are said to help mitigate common 454 starter problems.  Another common heat related problem is melting of wiring on the starter.  You may also be able to install a heat shield to keep some of the heat from the exhaust manifold from impacting the starter directly.  There are at least two kinds of heat shields.   One is a metal plate that helps reflect heat from the  manifolds away from the starter.  Another is foil wrapped, insulated blanket that wraps around the starter. 

There is another problem that is often mistaken for a starter problem.  The symptoms are much the same.  The starter will turn over once or twice and then stall.  This is often due to a faulty ground strap between the engine and the vehicle frame instead of a dead  battery or worn out starter.  Over time the connection between the ground strap terminal and the frame can become rusted, weakened by flexing or vibration, or corroded so it doesn't make a good connection.  If you experience starting problems that would be one of the first things to check.  Many times it can be corrected simply by cleaning the terminal and the spot where it attaches to the frame.  Or you may want to replace the entire ground strap, especially if it is small or flimsy to start with.  And old fashioned braided steel battery ground strap about an inch wide is a good choice if you have to upgrade.  I've even heard of at least one RVer who added a second ground strap on the right side of the engine.  Perhaps he has a "Valley Girl" mentality ("For sure, for sure.").  A second strap shouldn't be necessary, but it certainly won't hurt.

You may find folks who recommend an oversize oil filter to increase oil capacity.  They will often claim it will even help dissipate engine heat, especially if the filter is equipped with cooling fins.  I tried the oversize filters on a couple of my rigs and can't say that I noticed any perceptible difference.  However, having nearly an extra quart of oil in the system certainly won't hurt anything (except a small pain in your wallet for an extra quart at each oil change and the extra cost of the oversized filter).  The extra filter area may also be more efficient at removing contaminates.  It could reduce contamination and prevent unnecessary wear.   Anything that helps keep the oil cleaner longer is a good thing. The impact of these factors is difficult to measure.  The oversize oil filter is usually available as a direct replacement for the regular spin-on filter, but will be a lot taller.   The consensus I found in my most recent research is that over sized oil filters probably aren't worth the extra cost, but if it gives you peace of mind, it certainly won't hurt anything.  I put it in the "good to have", not the "must have" category.

On the subject of filters, there is another filter worth thinking about:  the air filter.  First of all, you always want to keep your air filter clean.  A clogged air filter will significantly reduce mileage and performance.  I like to use a K&N re-ususable air filter.  They generally allow greater air flow than standard paper elements and can be cleaned and reused over and over. They are a bit pricey to buy, but since they don't have to be replaced frequently, they pay for themselves over a few change intervals.  The improved air flow gives better power and better fuel economy.  Regular cleaning consists mostly of knocking off loose dirt; scheduled in depth cleaning calls for washing the filter in an approved solvent and re-oiling it with K&N filter oil.

Most 454s are equipped with fan clutches that engage and disengage the fan depending on the temperature.  You can usually hear when the fan kicks in or off  from inside the coach.  The sound can be quite dramatic.  Many drivers mistake it for downshifting when the fan kicks in.  If the fan is always engaged or never engages, the clutch may be faulty.  The purpose of the clutch is to engage the fan when it is needed for cooling.  If it is on when it isn't need, it puts some additional drag on the engine, which could have a slight affect on fuel economy and performance, and it may prevent the engine from reaching proper operating temperature by over cooling the radiator.  If it never engages, the fan will never operate, resulting in overheating.

Speaking of radiators, I've seen some motorhomes equipped with what I would consider to be undersized radiators.  I'm not talking about the square inches of surface or height and width, I'm talking about the number of rows of cores inside.  The more rows, the better it will cool.  If you have consistent overheating problems you should have the radiator checked.  First of all, there can be internal deposits that restrict flow and significantly reduce cooling capacity.  This can be tested with an optical sensing thermometer.  If there are places the radiator that are hotter than in other places, there is something restricting the flow, most likely some kind of internal blockage.  Secondly, you might have a radiator with only a few rows of tubes in the core.  If boiling out and rodding out the radiator to get rid of deposits doesn't solve your problem, check with your radiator shop about upgrading to a heavier duty radiator with more core tubes.  Unless the extra thickness pushes the radiator back into the fan or interferes with something out front, a heavier duty radiator should bolt right in where the original was without any modifications required.  Of course the heavy duty radiator will be more expensive than an OEM replacement, but the improved performance is well worth it.  I once had a radiator "rodded out" and it still didn't perform well.  When I finally had it replaced I found the previous mechanic had only "rodded out" the area he could reach under the filler cap instead of removing the tank and rodding out the entire radiator.

I have personally owned several motorhomes and pickups powered by 454s.  I have experienced some of the manifold and starter problems described above but I have always appreciated the raw power they deliver.  I've heard it said a 454 can pass anything but a gas station.  Newer fuel injected and computer controlled engines deliver far better mileage than their older carbureted predecessors.  I have a Chevrolet K3500 with the Vortec 454 that delivered about 16 mpg on a round trip from Salt Lake City to Denver Colorado one winter when we were in 4wd much of the way!  My motorhomes typically got around 6-7 mpg.  I now have over 300,000 miles on that K3500 and, although compression has been dropping, it is still running strong.

Big blocks rock!

RV/OHVBoat Shake Down Cruise

Shake down cruises probably apply mostly to RVs and OHVs and boats, but even tent campers can benefit from them, especially when you are just starting out or have purchased new equipment you need to try out.  The purpose of shake down cruise is to familiarize yourself with use and operation and to try out all systems and equipment and see if there are any problems that need to be addressed.

A shakedown cruise should be fairly close to home, in case you find any major issues you need to deal with.  If you need to test a motorhome or tow vehicle you'll want to make the trip long enough to properly exercise the mechanical components and capabilities but you probably shouldn't take off on a major trip (inter-state or cross-country) until you're sure you have the bugs out.  Sometimes you can check out a lot of things by "camping" right at home, although you will need to do at least some driving to exercise and prove vehicle mechanical systems.  A shakedown cruise for your boat should be on a familiar waterway with access to any emergency services you might require.

Hopefully weather will allow you opportunities to check out both heating and air conditioning systems in your RV an/or other vehicle.  We found a recent shakedown cruise in April in Utah was ideal.  Days were warm enough to test the A/C and nights cool enough to use the furnace.  Be sure to exercise all the major systems and watch for any signs of failure or poor performance.  A good way to check out your generator and microwave oven at the same time is to fire up the generator then hat up a cup of water in the microwave for 1 minute.  You should have hot water for a nice cup of your favorite hot beverage.  Plumbing leaks on RVs, even new ones, are fairly common.  Look for wet spots or drips beneath your RV or on the walls, floor, or ceiling.  If the 12-volt water pump cycles when you don't have an fixture in use you probably have a leak in a pipe or connection that you should track down before your next trip.  Until then, turn the pump off when you are not actively using water to minimize leakage and resulting water damage until you can fix the leak.  If you have an older camper with a pressurized water system it will lose pressure even when you aren't using any water if there is a leak.  If you are camping in a campground with hookups, watch for wet spots and listen for hissing sounds that might indicate a plumbing leak.  Sometimes you can hear water flowing at the supply faucet. If you do when no water is being used in your RV you probably have a leak.  It could be a leaky hose instead of a problem inside the RV so check hose and connections first.  They are the most likely to fail.

If your RV refrigerator uses more than one power source (gas, 120 volts, 12 volts) be sure to try all the options.  Electrical connections can corrode or vibrate loose and insects may build nests in the propane gas lines and burner.  A build up of dust and debris on the cooling coils may seriously reduce performance or you may discover you need an auxiliary fan on the coils.

A shake down cruise for a boat may include practice transporting and launching the boat as well as seeing how it does out on the water.  Shake down cruises should be designed to exercise the primary functions of the boat.  They will be different for power boats and sailboats, fishing boats and ski boats.  In each case you should plan activities that will let you test all the relevant features and functions of the boat and any onboard equipment  -- and your knowledge and skills and the knowledge and skills of your crew.

A shake down cruise for an OHV should be designed to give a chance to check it out thoroughly in a controlled environment before you take it far out on a trail system.   You might take advantage of some familiar trails near your home or primary staging area.  They shouldn't be excessively difficult or technical but they should provide enough challenging terrain to thoroughly exercise  you and your vehicle.  Things to watch out for include poor accelerator response, bad braking, wheel wobble, rough ride, leaks, and unusual noises.  You want to deal with any problems you encounter during your shake down cruise you should be able to get them resolved before you head out on a "real" outing where  you may find  yourself in a far more difficult situation if the are problems.

Tent camping shakedowns can be done in your own back yard unless you need to test out your vehicle.  It is especially helpful to learn how to setup a new tent before you have to do it under the stress of doing it in camp, possible with adverse winds and weather, and in front of other campers.  It is also a good idea to make sure all the components are there and in good condition while you are where you can get replacements or make repairs before you head out camping.  Checkout your camp stove and lanterns.  Test your sleeping bags and sleeping pads so you can make adjustments before you are totally dependent on them.  I once discovered my favorite 10° bag was useless even at 40° because it had been too tightly rolled in storage for too long and had lost virtually all of the insulating properties of loft.  In most places all there was were two thin pieces of nylon cloth; all the padding had been compressed or squeezed out to nearly nothing.  Unfortunately that happened on an actual outing and I had to make do.  Had I taken the time the check things out beforehand, I would have been able to replace the bag (which I did at the first opportunity) or at least bring along some extra blankets instead of freezing at night.

Make a list of any findings.   Your list might include provisions you need to restock and any additional items or equipment as well as any required repairs and desired updates.

Shakedown cruises are not only a good way to check out your equipment but an important way to make sure you are also ready for using the equipment.  Exercise your skills and test your tools too.  Make sure you have the tools you need for field repairs and know how to use them.  See if your body is physically up to the demands of the activities you want to participate in.  All too often we get soft during the off season and it may take a little time to regain our skills when we start up again.  Pushing things too far too fast is a sure recipe for failure.  Take time to warm up both you and your equipment before going full out.

Shake it up (er, uh, down) baby!

Trailer Brakes

Trailers over a certain size/weight must have brakes.  Virtually all travel trailers are heavy enough that they are required to have brakes.  Some small utility trailers and motorcycle trailers don't have or need them legally, but it is always a good idea to have them.   Tent trailers usually need brakes but a few, ultra-light weight trailers might be exempt in some jurisdictions.  Tow dollies may or may not also be equipped with brakes.  Obviously the weight of any car is enough that you should have brakes on the dolly.  There are basically two kinds of trailer brakes:  electric brakes and surge brakes.

Electric trailer brakes are controlled by a brake controller in the tow vehicle.  The controller is connected to the brake switch so it is activated when the vehicle brakes are applied.  The controller contains a device that measures momentum.  The harder and faster the vehicle decelerates when the brakes are applied, the stronger the application of the trailer brakes.  Controllers typically have adjustments to allow the driver to increase or decrease the sensitivity of the controller to tune the trailer braking.  They also have a control to manually apply the trailer brakes.  The brakes on the trailer are activated by a magnet controlled by the amount of power transmitted from the controller.  The magnet grips the inside face of the brake drum and an attached lever pushes the shoes out against the drum to slow or stop the trailer.  Most larger trailers have electric brakes.  Some advantages to electric trailer brakes is that the sensitivity can be tuned by the driver so the trailer brakes just right, not too much and not too little and the driver can apply the trailer brakes via a button on the controller. 

Surge brakes are self contained on the trailer.   Surge brakes are hydraulic brakes.  The master cylinder is included in the surge brake activator on the trailer tongue.  The activator is designed to apply hydraulic pressure to the braking system when it senses the tow vehicle is slowing down.  What happens is there is some flexibility in the way the activator is mounted on the tongue so that when the vehicle slows down and the trailer pushes forward against the hitch, pressure is applied through the master cylinder to the brakes to slow the trailer.  The main advantage to surge brakes is that they don't need a controller in the tow vehicle.  The main disadvantages are that the driver cannot manually apply the trailer brakes and the driver can't control the sensitivity.

I have used trailers with both types of brakes and quite honestly, have not found any significant differences in normal use.  Surge brakes are pretty much automatic and don't require any tuning by the driver.  On rare occasions I have manually applied electric trailer brakes but that was mostly for testing rather than any normal use.

Trailer brakes have an emergency disconnect that applies the brakes automatically if the trailer gets disconnected from the tow vehicle.   Normally, electric brake systems use the trailer battery to power the brakes if the disconnect switch is activated.  This might work with power supplied via the trailer connector, but will be useless once the connector pulls apart.  The disconnect typically consists of a pin connected to the tow vehicle so that it is pulled out of the switch if the tow vehicle is separated from the trailer.  The pin normally holds the switch open so it closes when the pin is removed, activating the trailer brakes.  Since it is basically an on or off situation, it is likely to lock up the brakes when activated.  On surge brakes, a cable attached to the vehicle typically pulls on a lever on the activator on the trailer tongue if the two become separated and the lever applies the brakes.  Emergency braking helps to  control the trailer if it gets disconnected from the vehicle.  Of course the first line of defense are the safety chains that should keep the two fairly close together and keep the trailer from wandering off by itself.  Long safety chains may allow the emergency brake function to be activated.

Properly adjusted trailer brake systems will apply braking proportional to the tow vehicle braking so both units slow down at the same rate.

If trailer brakes are too tight or too sensitive, the tow vehicle driver should feel the trailer holding the vehicle back, especially when the brakes are applied.  If it holds it back when the brakes have not been applied the trailer brakes are definitely too tight.  If trailer brakes heat up abnormally (hubs and tires get hotter than on the vehicle), the brakes are too tight and need to be backed off to avoid damage to the brakes and tires on the trailer and prevent extra load on the tow vehicle.

If trailer brakes are too loose or not sensitive enough, the vehicle driver should feel the trailer continue to push the vehicle when the brakes are applied and the trailer may kind of "fish tail"or wander when the brakes are applied.

Ideally, the drive won't feel the trailer either holding him back (brakes too tight) or pushing him during slowing and stopping maneuvers (brakes too loose).

Sometimes you can more easily see how the trailer brakes are behaving if you are driving on gravel, sand or dirt so you can see skids marks when the trailer brakes are engaged.  Testing trailer brakes on pavement means you will mostly rely on affect you can feel from the trailer on the tow vehicle when the brakes are applied.  Otherwise you have to apply them harshly enough to lock up the wheels so the tires drag and leave marks on the pavement.  Such violent maneuvers are generally not good for either the trailer or the tow vehicle.

Trailer brakes are adjusted about the same way drum brakes are adjusted on any vehicle.  There is a star wheel between the bottom ends of the brake shoes which is turned to push the shoes out against the drum.  Once the shoes are pushed out enough to keep the wheel from being turned, the star wheel is backed off just enough to let the wheel turn freely.  In my experience I can usually still hear the brake shoes lightly brushing the drum.  If the brakes are adjusted too tight they will drag and overheat.  This diminishes brake performance and life, creates extra tire wear, and can get hot enough to cause a fire.  If the brakes are adjusted too loose, they won't work effectively to slow or stop the trailer when needed.  If you aren't sure you can adjust the brakes correctly, have it done by a mechanic who knows what he is doing.  It may take several trips to the shop to get the brakes adjusted to your satisfaction but a good mechanic can adjust them to where HE thinks they should be and that will be an excellent starting point.

Controller sensitivity on electric brakes is adjusted by a switch on the controller.  It may be a rotating knob or a sliding switch.  Increasing sensitivity makes the trailer brakes come on faster and stronger; decreasing sensitivity makes them respond slower and weaker.  If the trailer seems to be tugging on the tow vehicle when you apply the brakes, the controller is too sensitive.  If the trailer doesn't seem to slow down when you apply the brakes or you can feel it pushing on the tow vehicle, is isn't sensitive enough.  Adjusting sensitivity is largely a trial and error situation.  Ideally you want the trailer braking to match the tow vehicle braking so the two slow down and stop together.

Trailer brakes are inspected by removing the drum and examining and/or measuring the amount of lining on the shoes.  Linings that are thin, cracked, or badly glazed should be replaced.  Grooved drums or drums that show signs of over heating (usually discoloration) should be turned or replaced.  To remove the drum you will have to remove the axle nut and outside wheel bearing.  The axle nut is a castle nut that is prevented from spinning loose by a cotter pin through the notches in the outside of the nut and the axle.  Always discard the used cotter pin and replace it with a new one.  While you have the drum off, inspect the wheel bearings.   If they show signs of rust or wear, replace them.  Clean and repack the wheel bearings before reinstalling the drum.  The outer bearing can be repacked by placing a glob of grease in one hand, then holding the bearing in the other hand and pressing the outer (larger end) edge of the bearing into the grease repeatedly until the grease squished out the small end of the bearing between the rollers.  Work grease all the way around the entire circumference of the bearing.  Repacking the inner bearing can be done in the same way if you can safely remove it.  The inner bearing is held in place by a grease seal that will probably have to be replaced it you remove it to extract the bearing.  You can apply some extra grease to the inner bearing with your fingers, but you won't be able to properly pack grease into the bearing without removing it.  Be sure to force grease into the bearing and not just smear it on the outside.  The axle nut must be properly tightened when reinstalling the drum.  Your owners manual may give you instructions or torque specifications which you should follow.  If you don't have a manual or specifications, snug the nut up until the bearing retainer is tight against the bearing, making sure it doesn't cause the bearing to bind when the wheel is spun.  Then back it off about one or two gaps in the castle nut to install the cotter pin.  If the axle nut is too loose, the wheel will wobble, most likely destroying the bearings, the hub, and the drum.  If it too tight, the bearings will be over stressed and will run hot, thinning out and losing the grease and burning up.  Here again, if you aren't comfortable with your ability to make the right adjustment, have it done by a qualified mechanic.  Some trailers may have specified torque readings for the hub nuts.  Lacking torque specs I usually snug up the nuts, then back them off about 1 notch on the castle nut before installing the cotter pin.

Any fairly good do it yourself back yard mechanic should be able to service trailer brakes.  It is pretty much the same as servicing drum brakes on a car.  There are some special brake tools that make any brake job much easier but it is possible to do it with ordinary hand tools.  In particular, brake pliers are designed to reattach brake springs and while it is possible to remove the clips and springs holding the shoes onto the backing plate using pliers, it is much easier with a tool specially designed for the task.  It has a screwdriver type handle and a dime-sized shallow cone in place of the blade.  The cone fits over the clips on the retaining springs, allowing you to compress the springs and then remove the clip with a turn of the handle.  Another good tool is brake adjusting tool.  I've seen brakes adjusted using a flat screwdriver, but the size and angles of  a brake adjusting tool make it much easier and faster.  Remember, almost any task can almost be fun with the right tools and even the simplest tasks can be a pain in various body parts with the wrong tools.  You usually have a choice of several grades of brake shoes.  Price usually depends on the type of friction material used.  More expensive materials are usually more effective and more durable.  However, if your budget is tight, using standard brake shoes should that match original specifications should be adequate unless you are frequently pushing the maximum load on your trailer or towing it on a lot of mountainous roads.

Stop right!