Thundersnow

Thundersnow?  Say what?  What the heck is that?  Well, it is thunder during a snow storm.  It doesn't happen as often as regular thunderstorms, but it DOES happen occasionally.  Because it is rather rare, and because we normally don't go camping in winter weather, it is unlikely you will encounter it during an outing.  But you might and it would be good to know what -- if anything --- to do when it happens.  One good thing about thundersnow, besides being rare, is that it usually doesn't last very long.   The meteorological conditions that create thunder don't usually occur in really cold weather.

Normal thunderstorms are the product of very tall, narrow columns of clouds.  Rising warm air and falling cool air create an increasingly powerful cycle of wind within the column.  Static electricity builds up between opposing currents in the cloud until it has sufficient charge to arc to the ground or to other clouds.  Winter usually doesn't produce the right kind of temperature differences to spawn thunderstorms but it can happen on occasion.  It isn't absolute temperatures but differences in temperature that can cause thunderstorms.

Normal snow storms usually come from wide, flat cloud systems so they don't usually generate lightning and thunder.  But occasionally rising warm air will disrupt the normal cloud formation and create bulges or tall columns capable of creating lightning and thunder and thundersnow is born.

I have personally only seen a thundersnow once or twice, even though I grew up in southern Idaho where we had some rather severe winters (-26°F at least once and one February where the high never got above -6°F for two weeks).  The first thundersnow I saw was on Christmas Eve in Salt Lake City a couple of years ago.  At first I thought the flashing of the lightning was just fluctuations in street lighting, but real thunder soon confirmed it was a rare thundersnow.  It was rather exciting and quite beautiful.  We experienced another brief bout this past winter in southern Utah County, a few miles south of Utah Lake. I suspect the proximity to reasonably large bodies of water may have had something to do with creating the temperature differences needed to generate thunder.

If you should get caught in a thundersnow in camp, you should take all the precautions you would for Camping In Snow and Camping In Thunderstorms.  You are very likely to encounter the potential risks -- and beauty -- of both.

Be safe!

Camping in Lightning

No one except ardent storm chasers would deliberately go camping in a lightning or thunderstorm.  However, weather being what it is, any of us could get caught in a thunderstorm while camping just about any time.  Even if there are no storms in the regional forecast you might still get thunderstorm and lightning in the mountains.  Many mountains are large enough to create their own micro-climate and very local weather.  I have had my RV caught in a lightning storm.  It doesn't have to mean the end of an outing.  We just need to take appropriate precautions and sit back and enjoy the show!

Lightning can present a marvelous light show, and sometimes scare the heck out of people!  It can be exciting and fun to watch -- as long as it doesn't get too close and if you are in a safe and comfortable place.  I like watching a good lightning show, as long as I'm in a safe place.  I like hearing the thunder roll.  When I was growing up in Idaho, my grandfather said it was the sound of potato wagons rolling by.  Not too threatening.  Being in an RV is generally pretty safe.  Even if lightning should strike your RV or even close to it YOU should be protected by the vehicle structure.  By the way, it is NOT the rubber tires that protect you.  Think about it.  Lightning easily arcs through 10,000-30,000' feet of air.  Do you really think it can't jump the 6" or so through rubber from your steel wheel to the ground?  The lightning WILL make its way to the ground, no matter what.  It is just a matter of the path it chooses.  It is the steel structure around you that protects you when you are in a vehicle.  If lightning does strike the vehicle it travels through the structure instead of through your body.  Of course, you could get zapped and even be injured if you are touching the structure at the time, so avoid touching window and door frames during an electrical storm.  That's also why your mother told you stay off the phone during an electrical storm.  Lightning striking a telephone pole somewhere miles away could send high voltage down the phone line.  Guess that gives cell phones one more advantage, although lightning may strike the cell towers and knock them out it won't travel back through your cell phone.  The other risk to you inside your RV is if you are parked under or near a tall object that may attract lightning and part or all of the object may explode or topple and damage your RV or set it on fire.  If you are camped in the kind of campgrounds most people prefer, with lots of trees, you probably don't have worry too much unless you happen to be parked near the tallest tree or some other high artificial structure like a flag pole, light standard, or antenna .   And although you may be safe inside your RV, it may suffer negative consequences from being struck or nearly struck by lightning.  Sensitive electronics may be damaged or a strike on a distant power pole might send surge of devastating voltage down the line and through your power cable if you're connected to campground power.  A surge protector is good way to protect your RV against this hazard.  They aren't cheap, but they are less expensive than repairing the damage from voltage surges.  Camping World offers a wide variety of surge protectors.  If you get one be sure to get one that corresponds to the power requirements of your RV.  BTW, if  you spend most of your time boondocking instead of connected to campground power, you probably don't need a surge protector since your generator isn't likely to create the kind of surges that can happen on commercial power grids.

Lightning, like any other severe weather, is going to present a bigger problem for tent campers than for RVers.  Your tent simply isn't going to provide you as much protection against any weather as an RV will.  Should lightning strike nearby you could be peppered with shrapnel or flaming debris, neither of which is going to be much deflected by tent fabrics.  Once again, if your tent is set up in a campground with lots of trees about the same height your probability of a near lightning strike will be reduced  However, if you're near a tall tree, light post or radio tower, they could "attract" lightning.  In reality, objects don't attract lightning.  Simply being the tallest object around makes them the location of the shortest distance for the lightning to jump from clouds to ground.  Lightning rods are used to protect structures from lightning strikes.  They reach higher than the structure an are grounded so the charge is conducted directly into the ground without damaging the structure.  The Empire State Building gets hit by lightning about 100 times every year.  So much for "lightning never strikes twice in the same place!".  The hail and heavy rain that often comes with thunderstorms is going to have more impact on tents than RVs.  You might want to seek protection for yourself and your companions under a sturdy rigid canopy or get inside your vehicles during hail and heavy rain.

Lightning can be a definite hazard for hikers, climbers, skiers (yes, lightning does sometimes strike in winter), boaters, and equestrian and OHV riders.   If you happen to get caught on a hill top or out in the open  in a flat area, YOU could very well be the highest object around!  You will usually get some warning of an approaching electrical storm from the sound of thunder.  You can tell how close the lightning is by counting the seconds between when you see the lightning flash and when you hear the thunder.  I was once within about 100' of a lightning strike.  Instead of "thunder" I heard an explosion simultaneous with the lightning.  I thought someone had bombed the computer center where I worked!  When lightning strikes a tree, the rapid vaporization of sap and moisture may cause the tree to literally explode, sending wooden shrapnel and flaming debris in all directions.  To estimate how far away lightning is, count the seconds between the flash and when you hear the thunder and divide by 3 to get the distance in kilometers or by 5 to get the distance in miles.  If it is closer than 25 or 30 seconds, take immediate steps to protect yourself.  Get off that hill top or out of that flat clearing and seek protection in a cluster of trees all about the same height.  If there are no trees around, try to get down into some kind of depression like a sand wash or creek bed.  Lacking any of these, lay down flat on the ground to minimize your height.  Don't stay too close to an OHV as it may become the tallest object around the the most likely target of lightning.  If lightning strikes it, it could send shrapnel or flaming projectiles in your direction if you are too close.  When entering any low lying area during a storm always be aware of and watch out for flash floods.  Avoid contact with water, which can also increase conductivity and the likelihood of becoming the object of a lightning strike. Even if the rain is several miles away, flash floods can sweep down creek beds and washes with amazing speed and devastating, even deadly, force.  When I worked in the construction industry we would shut down outdoor operations whenever lighting was within 2 miles of our work site as a safety precaution.  Out on the flat surface of an ocean or lake just about any boat could easily become the tallest object around and therefore the most likely contact point for lightning.  The tall masts on sailboats are especially susceptible.  Boats can be equipped with systems similar to lightning rods on buildings to conduct any electrical discharge safely to ground bypassing the components and occupants of the vessel.

One way to avoid being subjected to possible lightning strikes is to monitor the weather forecast and stay out of areas where thunderstorms are likely.  Lacking access to weather reports (shame on you!  Portable radios are small and inexpensive so you should always take one with you when camping) keep an eye on the sky.  Learn to discern the types of clouds that are prone to produce lightning and observe from which direction approaching weather comes and watch for early lightning strikes and take cover before it comes anywhere near you.  When observing clouds you will want to look for shape, color, and movement. Massive, dark, roiling clouds are often home to thunderstorms. High altitude clouds, and white, wispy clouds might bring showers but lightning is unlikely.  Here is a link for Predicting the Weather With Clouds.

Lightning isn't usually a direct threat to highway driving, at least not to the occupants inside vehicles.  If the vehicle is struck by lightning it will be conducted around the occupants by the steel body of the vehicle without injuring them as long as they are not touching the body.  The vehicle itself may not fare as well.  Modern, computer-controlled vehicles are likely to suffer severe damage to the electronic components but the electrical systems in older vehicles are not completely immune to lightning damage.  Lightning may pose an indirect threat as well.  A lightning strike may fell trees, street lights, or power poles across the road to block traffic and knock out traffic lights.  The heavy rain that often accompanies electrical storms may make visibility difficult and make roads slick.  Heavy rain or runoff can flood roadways and even a fairly thin layer of water on the pavement can seriously reduce traction.  Wet pavement has a co-efficient of friction about half that of dry pavement.  That means its about twice as likely for you to loose traction and control and will take twice as long to stop.  As water accumulates on the roadway, vehicles traveling at high speeds can begin to "hydroplane", riding on top of the water instead of the tires actually touching the pavement, causing the driver to lose control.  Whenever you are driving in rain, turn off your cruise control. If the cruise control is on and your car begins to hydroplane - when your tires loose contact with the pavement your car will accelerate to a higher rate of speed and when they once again gain traction you take off like an airplane.  Read more at Snopes report on using cruise control in the rain.   Flooded roadways can also conceal dangerous pot holes, washouts, and debris.  If you drive into a low spot, it may even be deep enough to cause your car to temporarily float, reducing traction and steering to zero and you'll go where ever the water chooses to take you.  Submerged debris may damage tires, suspension, and oil pans.  Suddenly submerging a spinning radiator fan in deep water may cause it to break or bend and damage the radiator.  Metal fans are usually pretty sturdy but a lot of modern vehicles have plastic or fiberglass fans that will virtually disintegrate when suddenly striking water.  Water splashing up under the car is sometimes intrusive enough to interrupt power to the ignition system, causing the engine to stall.  If you must drive through deep puddles, drive slowly.

Lightning can strike distant power lines and send a dangerous surge through electric and phone lines.  If you usually camp with electric hookups it is a good idea to equip your RV with a good surge protector to prevent damage from power surges.  They aren't cheap, but they're a lot cheaper than replacing all the damaged wiring and electrical and electronic equipment that will be ruined without them. 

The thunderstorms that create lightning often generate hail as well.   Drops of rain are caught in the updraft, freeze, fall down only to be caught up again and again until they grow to heavy to rise again.  The higher the winds in the updrafts, the larger the hail grows before falling.  Hail the size of peas or smaller is fairly common and usually doesn't cause much damage.  Dime and even nickel sized hail is not unusual.  I once had the aluminum roof of my motorhome pelted by nickle sized hail and afterwards the texture resembled that of a golf ball.  Larger, golf ball, baseball or even softball sized hail has been recorded.  Any ball-sized hail is very likely to do severe damage, especially to windshields and car tops.  Any hail large than peas is likely to be a problem for tents.

There are a lot of myths about lightning.  Some are just that, myths without any real merit, but some have an element of truth behind them.

Lightning doesn't strike twice in the same place.  FALSE!  This a a common misconception, probably based on the fact that a lightning strike often damages what it hits so that it is no longer there or at least no longer the tallest point around.   Thus, if lightning strikes a tall tree, the tree will probably be destroyed so it can't be struck again.  But for more permanent objects, multiple strikes are fairly common.   For example, lightning strikes the Empire State Building in New York City more than 100 times a year.  Why isn't it damaged?  It has a big lightning rod on the top that is wired all the way down through the building into the ground so all the energy is safely conducted into the earth without actually passing through the structure itself -- or the people inside.

Being struck by lightning is always fatal.  FALSE.  In fact, the mortality rate is only 10-20%, although the 80% who survive often suffer long term effects.  It is often thought it causes severe burns, but unless the victim is in contact with something like a metal object that "concentrates" the current, the brief surge doesn't usually last long enough to heat up the tissue.  The damage is usually due to something called "electroporation" in which the high voltage actually makes holes in your cell membranes, seriously damaging nerves and muscles.   Not that the technical difference makes any difference to the victims.  This could lead to pain, weakness, and bruising.  Another common casualty is hearing.  Lightning always produces thunder, although when lighting is close it sounds more like a violent explosion, so at least temporary hearing loss is a fairly common result of being near a lightning strike.  If you are struck by lightning, the thunder will occur simultaneously with the lightning flash, usually with sound something like a couple sticks of dynamite going off next to your ear!

The "30/30 Rule".  Definitely a kernel of truth here.  This rule says if there is less than 30 seconds between when you see the lightning flash and hear the thunder, take cover and then stay inside at least 30 minutes after the storm has passed and you stop hearing thunder.  While some folks may consider this overkill, it is generally good advice.  Better safe than sorry!  When I worked in construction we were required to shut down outdoor activity whenever there was lightning within 2 miles of our construction site.

Someone struck by lightning becomes electrically charged and touching them can injure you.  FALSE.  The actual contact with lightning is very brief, usually only a fraction of a second, and it does not leave behind a residual charge that would be dangerous to rescuers.  The human body is not an effective electrical capacitor (a device that stores electrical energy).  This is significantly different from the circumstances surrounding accidental electrocution from power lines.  The human body does conduct electricity.  A victim may still be in contact with a live line so it is essential that would be rescuers make sure the power is turned off or the wire is no longer in contact with the victim before touching them.  Since lightning strikes are momentary, you would only be in danger if you were touching the victim at the exact time they were struck.  You are in no danger from residual electricity by touching them after the strike is over.

Rubber tires insulate you from being shocked by lightning.  FALSE.  The protection you enjoy being in a vehicle comes from the metal frame around you which conducts any charge past you instead of through your body.  That means when riding on a motorcycle or other rubber-tired vehicle you may still be a target for lightning if you happen to be the tallest point around.  Think about it.  Lightning can arc thousands of feet through the air, why not few inches through rubber tires?

In the United States your odds of being struck by lightning in any given year are about 1 in 500,000 or about 1 in 6250 in an 80-year lifetime.  Your probability of being injured in a vehicle accident on the way to or from your camp site is much higher, in fact about 10-20 in 100,000, about a hundred times more likely than being struck by lightning!

Enjoy the show!

Portable BBQs

Portable BBQs add a lot of convenience for camping.   There are a large number of options to choose from, ranging from small, disposable, table-top charcoal units to fancy gas powered grills designed primarily for residential use.  Some RVs have BBQs built in to an outside compartment.  You can usually find a place (cabinet or roof pod) to bring along a small portable unit if it isn't built in.  You might be able to tote a home BBQ if you have space in the bed of a pickup or in a utility trailer but portable units can usually go just about anywhere in any vehicle.  Portable BBQs are modest in size and all fairly simple in design but they do require a certain amount of maintenance to keep them in optimum working order.  Charcoal grills only need to be cleaned periodically.  And that means removing the ashes and burned on grease from the bottom as well as brushing and cleaning the cooking surface itself.   Give your grill grid a good scrubbing with a BBQ brush, then rub it down with  a wad of newspaper for the finishing touch.  There are aerosol cleaners designed specifically for BBQ grills to help remove burned on grease.  Gas BBQs have burners that also need to be cleaned when you clean out the debris.  Usually all this takes is a good brushing along the sides of the burners where the perforations for the gas are using a wire brush.  Sometimes you may still have problems getting adequate gas flow after cleaning the burners.  This is often caused by spider webs inside the gas lines and fittings.  For some reason spiders seem drawn to these locations.   It may be the cozy physical configurations but some theories say they are attracted by the repulsive smell of the gas itself.  By the way, that nasty smell isn't the propane.  It is a chemical added to make it smell so leaks can be detected.  Regardless of why spiders do it, their webs and nests will restrict gas flow.  You would think the pressure of the gas would just blow it out, but it doesn't.  Tubing can be cleaned using a special brush usually available where ever BBQs are sold.  It looks like a screen door spring, about 1/4" in diameter and 12-18" long with a small patch of bristles about the size of a dime at one end and a handle on the other.  In addition to cleaning the tubes you may have to clean or replace the orifices.  These are brass fittings with the right sized opening for proper gas metering.  If they get plugged or even partially closed off with spider webs, grease, or debris, or enlarged by wear or abusive cleaning, they will not function properly.  The best way to clean them is with compressed air.  Using a metal probe often damages them and makes them unusable.   If you distort or enlarge the hole, you will have the replace the orifice.  If you must use more than compressed air to clear a clog, use a wooden toothpick or a piece of soft wire, not a hardened tool like an awl or an ice pick.  I've seen skilled folks use the RIGHT SIZE drill bit to clean an orifice.  If you resort to this procedure, anchor the orifice securely and squarely on the table of a drill press so you can drill straight and true.  Trying to drill it with a handheld drill is pretty much a recipe for failure.  A hand held drill will wobble slightly in even the steadiest of hands and it takes only a tiny wobble to ruin the orifice.   It may also introduce shavings into the piping and you run the risk of drilling into your hand!  Just trying to hold the orifice steady while you drill it will be difficult and very likely painful.  Sometimes soaking an orifice in vinegar will be enough to remove deposits.

Most portable BBQs are fueled by gas or charcoal.  Alternate heat sources include wood, electricity, and sunlight.  Contrary to some beliefs, gas BBQs actually emit less carbon dioxide than charcoal, so don't feel guilty if you choose gas over charcoal for convenience.  For really "green" grilling, choose a solar grill.  You can find plans on the Internet to build your own inexpensive grill or by one ready made. Some even "store" heat for after dark cooking, but for the most part you'll have to limit your cookouts to time with plenty of sunshine.  You will probably have to buy it on line and they aren't cheap.  Expect to pay $100 to $400, plus shipping.  Speaking of prices, better quality BBQ grills not only last longer but are more environmentally friendly than cheap ones and are less likely to leave undesired contaminates on your food.  Many people prefer the smoky taste of charcoal.  To ensure the best taste as well as minimize air pollution, avoid using charcoal that contains a lot of coal or other additives.  The best charcoal for grilling is natural wood charcoal.  By the way, did you know the famous Kingsford brand of charcoal was a byproduct of Henry Ford's early auto factories?  Ford collaborated with Kingsford to convert waste wood scraps from building Model T's and Model A's into a viable consumer product:  charcoal.  Together they promoted BBQs during outings using automobiles.

Most portable gas BBQs are designed to run off the small, 1-lb propane cylinders.  They are small, light weight, easy to transport, readily available, and easy to attach to the BBQ.  You can get adapters, such as so called "Extend-a-flow" kits for motorhomes, to run your portable BBQ off the large tanks on your motorhome.  Adapters also also available to connect portable BBQs and stoves to removable trailer tanks and standard portable propane tanks.  Having a larger tank reduces the chances of running out of gas while cooking a meal and bulk propane is usually cheaper per gallon than the small cylinders.  Portable gas grills are typically about 1' to 1 1/2' wide, about 1 foot deep, and about 10-12" tall  with the legs extended.  You can also buy single use charcoal grills for camping.  They usually include the charcoal in a heavy aluminum foil tray.  They are very convenient but as is often the case, convenience comes at a price.    They are intended to be disposable -- used once and tossed.  But it might be worth it to avoid hauling around a bulky BBQ and a bag of charcoal if your space is limited and you don't plan to grill multiple times in an outing.  Be careful where you set them.  The trays get very hot so they can damage wooden or plastic tables.  An ideal place to put them is on the grill of one of the permanent standup BBQs you sometimes see in parks and campgrounds.  Lacking one of those  you might have to put them on the ground.

Charcoal is favored by many camp chefs over gas for the smokey flavor it adds to foods.   EZ light charcoal contains an accelerant which may affect the taste, but usually it should burn off before you are ready to cook.  Likewise, charcoal lighter fluids can affect the taste so use them sparingly.  The charcoal lighter will typically burn off long before you're ready to cook, but to be completely safe, use standard charcoal briquets and light them using crumpled newspaper or kindling.  If you do use any accelerant, be sure to allow enough time for it to burn off before you start cooking.  Hickory, cherry, and other wood chips may be added to enhance flavors.  A "charcoal chimney" can be used to get your charcoal going faster without accelerants.  Put a wad of paper in the bottom (a good use of old newspaper), add the amount of charcoal you need, and light the paper.  In about 20-30 minutes your charcoal will be ready to cook with.  Wood chips may even be used with gas BBQs to enhance flavor but be sure to check grill manufacturers restrictions and the instructions that come with the chips.  Charcoal is also the preferred fuel for Dutch oven cooking but you can also use a dutch oven in a campfire or in the coals from a campfire.  And advantage to charcoal for Dutch ovens is it is easy to put glowing briquets on the lid.  Use about 1 briquet for each inch of diameter of the oven.  If  you are cooking on a campfire, use coals from the fire to approximate the number of briquets.

For better tasting food as well as for health reasons, you will want to keep the grill surfaces clean.  Most of the time you can use a BBQ brush to clean away the burned, greasy deposits left behind by the last use.  Fire up the grill and let it get hot to soften and loosen or burn off the deposits, then brush away the residue using a grill brush.  For more complete removal of greasy residue, rub the grill with a wad of old newspaper.  Just make sure the grill isn't too hot or the flames so high that the paper catches on fire!  An occasional cleaning with a commercial grill cleaner will help keep it in tip top shape, but be sure to wipe it down well before using it so your hamburgers or steaks don't taste like grill cleaner.  If you are particularly concerned about removing all the grill cleaner residue, wash it with warm soapy water and rinse and dry it thoroughly.  Avoid using ordinary household cleaners on the grill.  They may leave an unpleasant taste and sometimes even toxic chemicals!  You can use cooking spray on the grill or brush it with cooking oil to help keep food from sticking, although the grease that comes out of a lot meats will be enough by itself.  The grease that drips out of meats as they cook creates much of the smoke that gives that BBQ flavor whether using charcoal or gas.

Lighting your BBQ.   Gas BBQs can be lit using a match, a long handled lighter, or a built in igniter.  If your BBQ doesn't have an igniter or it is worn out or broken, you can usually buy a universal replacement igniter kit and install it yourself, eliminating the need to track down matches or lighters to get your grill going each time.  As mentioned above, the best way to light charcoal is using a "charcoal chimney", which uses some wadded up paper to get the charcoal started.  Charcoal lighter fluid is another popular way of lighting charcoal but personally I don't like the smell it adds to the charcoal (and my food).  "Matchlight" charcoal is pre-treated with charcoal lighter to make it ignite easily so you don't need to carry charcoal lighter.  Avoid using gasoline to start your charcoal.  It is more likely to create unpleasant odors and taste than approved charcoal lighter fluids which are supposedly designed to burn away cleanly.

BBQs are mostly used for cooking hamburgers, hot dogs, steaks, and chicken but you can also roast other meats and vegetables like corn and bake potatoes on them quite easily.  With the addition of a griddle you can do pancakes, eggs, or French toast. You could use them like a stove to prepare other foods in pots and pans but your trusty Coleman stove is usually a better choice for that with burners that are designed to apply heat directly to pots and pans and with more precise controls for setting the best cooking temperature.

BBQs can be difficult to use in windy conditions.  I've experienced situations where even with a wind screen around the cooking surface, the breeze through the burner compartment prevented sufficient heat from reaching the grill to cook hamburgers.  Typical wind screens attach to the top of the BBQ or stove to block wind from the cooking surface and the food thereon.  You may have to improvise to block the wind from whipping through the burner compartment -- or give up and cook on your RV stove or over the campfire until the wind dies down.  Sometimes just being on the leeward side of your RV or some other structure is enough to get you and your BBQ out of the wind.

We sometimes use our trusty R2D2 (washing machine tub fire pit) to cook burgers etc.  I fitted an old BBQ grill with a pipe I can slide into the center agitator tube of the R2D2 and we use regular firewood -- no treated wood -- for the cooking fire.

Throw another shrimp on the barby, mate!

Is There Anyone Who SHOULDN'T Go RVing or Camping?

There are few reasons anyone who wants to shouldn't be able to go RVing or camping.  There may be some restrictions on certain activities or locations based on diagnosed medical conditions or physical disabilities, but for the most part, the only people who shouldn't go RVing or camping are those who don't want to.

If you have a medical condition where you are told to avoid flying or other high altitudes, you will want to restrict your RVing and camping to elevations that are safe for you, but it doesn't mean you have to sit at home!  There are plenty of beach venues that literally put you at sea level so elevation would not be a problem.  Allergies may be sometimes used as an excuse to not go camping but with modern medicine and careful choice of destinations, most allergy related problems can be mitigated.  If you or someone in your group have been given restrictions on physical activities due to injuries or illness, avoid strenuous tasks like hiking, cycling, or chopping firewood.  There are still many fun and beneficial things you can do around camp.  Anyone on dialysis will need to stay close enough to home or their dialysis center to maintain their schedule.  You may need adjust your plans or have special equipment to accommodate the needs of people in your party with physical disabilities.

If you have zero experience RVing or camping, seek out experienced companions to get you started.  I would not recommend taking off on an unassisted camping trip if you've never been camping before.  There are certain activities that can be dangerous if you don't know what you're doing or ignore prescribed safety precautions.  My father-in-law singed off his eyebrows trying to light a furnace in his micro-mini motorhome by not following the lighting instructions properly.  Lighting camp stoves and lanterns is generally a pretty safe procedure, but it can sometimes be a problem for the novice.  Even building a simple campfire safely requires some knowledge and practice.  Setting up tents and awnings requires a certain amount of skill.

Does advancing age mean you've got to give up camping?  I sure hope not!  I've seen plenty of active retirees in their 70s and 80s and 90s enjoy the RVing and camping experience.  My own grandmother traveled with my Mom and Dad and younger sister in their mini-motorhome until she was in her 80s.  She found it quite comfortable and a lot less stressful than being left at home.  It helped that they involved her in  tasks around camp that made her feel useful was well as welcome.   At 75 she enjoyed riding on the back of my enduro dirt bike (yes, it had footpegs to carry a passenger).  You may reach an age where it would be a good idea to leave the driving to someone else, but that applies to other activities too, like routine grocery shopping.  My Mom just turned 90 and although she still holds a valid driver's license and keeps it up to date she has voluntarily stopped driving.  Although she passes her driving tests with flying colors, she is uncomfortable that her eye sight and reaction time aren't what they used to be and would rather not take any chances. But she still enjoys trips to the beach or the forest with other family members at the wheel.  As avid dirt bikers, my wife and I strongly subscribe to the idea that "You don't stop riding (or camping) because you get old; you get old because you stop riding (or camping)."

Physical disabilities may impose some restrictions on what you can do, but just falling under ADA rules doesn't mean you have to stay home.  I saw an OHV activist climb out of a wheelchair to ride his ATV in a pro-OHV parade.  And no, it wasn't an ATV accident that put him in the wheelchair.  Tow vehicles and motorhomes can be equipped with wheelchair lifts and other adaptations to make them accessible to disabled persons.  The aisle space in older RVs may not accommodate wheel chairs, but in newer models with slide-outs it will be less of a problem, although unless the unit was designed with wheelchair access in mind you may still encounter tight spots.  In a pinch (pun intended) you might be able to buy a narrow wheelchair like those used on airlines that may be able to negotiate the tight spaces inside an RV.  Some folks find they can navigate inside an RV either using a walker or cane or just the cabinets and walls of the RV for support.  Assist handles might be installed to facilitate getting in and out of an RV and negotiating the aisle and bathroom.

Allergies may impose some restrictions on where you go, but they certainly don't have to shut down all camping activity.  While it would be unwise to knowingly plant yourself in the middle of batch of vegetation that triggers your allergies, there is enough variety in outdoor environments that just about everyone should be able to find a place where they can avoid severely unpleasant reactions.  If I were allergic to bees I wouldn't visit a honey farm!  Modern allergy medication used correctly can usually relieve most of the symptoms.

Some people view pregnancy as imposing many restrictions on mothers to be.  But it certainly doesn't have to be that way and it doesn't have to put a moratorium on your camping!  My wife continued RVing and camping with the family and even riding her dirt bike through most her her pregnancies, until just a few weeks before delivery.  Of course you don't want to take an unreasonable risks for either the baby or the mother, but routine camping shouldn't be a problem unless there are already extenuating circumstances that limit the mother's activities.  As a kind of extension of camping during pregnancy, you don't have to stop camping when the baby comes.  Bring him/her along!  We did, and all our kids LOVE RVing, OHVing, and camping to this day.  Be aware that you will need to attend to the special needs of baby.  Make proper preparations and allow adequate time for addressing their needs and you'll --  and they'll -- be fine.  Supercross star James "Bubba" Stewart got his first motorcycel ride on his dad's lap when he was only about 2 days old!

So, unless you're under doctor's orders to avoid camping or you absolutely hate being in the outdoors or hate traveling or hate campfires, there is no reason why you shouldn't go camping.  Even if you get car sick it doesn't mean you have to stay home.  Just take appropriate medication and avoid reading while riding and you should do fine.

Time for that getaway!

Changing a Tire

I am surprised how many drivers I meet who have never changed a tire.   I suppose I shouldn't be.  With today's convenient road side assistance programs and cell phones it is easy to get professional help when you need it.  And many times it is prudent if not absolutely necessary, even for folks who are experienced and know how to do it.  But it still surprises me that any driver has never actually changed a tire themselves.  Flat tires are a common occurrence and certainly happen when you least expect it and often where you have little or no access to professional services.  Knowing how to change a tire may be especially important for campers and RVers who are frequently in remote areas where services may be very expensive if they are available at all.   I have been in situations where road side assistance either wasn't available or wouldn't come off road to help me.

Changing a tire on a tow vehicle or moderate sized RV is much like changing the tire on an ordinary car or truck.  In fact, many times the tow vehicle IS an ordinary car or truck.  It would be a good idea to practice changing a tire at home where you can choose a safe location that is out of traffic to learn the process and develop your skills so you'll be prepared out on the road.  Don't wait until you have a flat tire.  You can practice any time.  One difference is when changing a flat tire you will probably have to jack your vehicle up a little higher to install the good tire after you have removed the flat.  Another is a flat tire is likely to be hot to the touch and may have physical damage that makes it dangerous to handle.  Wear good leather work gloves when handling an actual flat for sure and, to help build the right habits, wear them while practicing.  When practicing be sure to actually find, get out, and install the spare so you will be familiar with the procedure when you have a flat out on the highway.

Small to medium size travel trailers are pretty similar too, just be sure to block the unaffected wheel(s) to keep the vehicle from rolling when you jack it up.  Trailers may or may not have designated jacking spots like those found on most passenger cars.  You need to place the jack under the frame (not the body).  Jacking under the body is likely to tweak the structure, perhaps separating the body from the frame and causing expensive and permanent damage.  Jacking under the axle is very stable but often doesn't allow the wheel and tire to drop down enough out of the fender well to be removed.

Changing a tire on a large RV is more like changing the tire on a large truck or bus and is often best left to professionals.  I've seen the time when experienced professionals had trouble even loosening the lug nuts on my big Class A diesel pusher motorhome.  I ended up having to drive slowly several miles on a flat tire to the towing service shop where it took a 3/4" air impact wrench powered by a very large compressor to loosen the lug nuts.

With today's road side assistance programs, why would you need to know how to change a tire yourself?  Good question.  First of all, many roadside assistance programs will not service locations that are off pavement and if you do any boondocking you may find yourself outside of service range.  And what if your roadside assistance has expired?  I've seen that happen to many people.  I had my own AAA service suspended for a year when my online banking service failed to deliver a scheduled payment.  Knowing I had scheduled the payment, I thought it was in full force and didn't find out it wasn't until my wife needed it one day months later and found it wasn't active!  Bad news!  I was once in a location with my big motorhome where there was no local contractor for my road side assistance.  They were able to find an independent service but I had to front about $350 for the call and wait weeks for reimbursement from my road side assistance program.  Had I not had the $350 I would have been forced to try to change the tire myself.

Safety is your biggest concern when changing a tire.   Your first order of business will be to find a safe place to pull off the road.  You need to get as far out of traffic as you can without getting into an unsafe position where your vehicle may lean or get stuck.  By the way, undesirable as it may be to drive on a flat tire, stopping in an unsafe location to try to save an already damaged tire is dangerous and  foolish.  Even though a flat might be due to something simple like nail in the tire, by the time you notice it additional damage is likely to have already occurred and the tire might not be salvageable anyway.  Always exercise caution when stopping with a flat tire.  It is going to affect handling and braking so take it slow an easy.  Once your are safely stopped, it is always a good idea to put out a series of reflectors or flares behind your rig to warn approaching drivers.  To decide where to place the flares or other signal devices, the placement of the first flare (furthest from vehicle) use the posted speed limit - convert that to feet then multiply by a factor of 4 - (30 mph = 30 x 4 or 120 ft).  If the speed limit is over 50 mph, add 100 feet  (50 mph = 50 x 4 =200 + 100 = 300 ft).  At 60 mph put the first flare 340 feet behind your vehicle.  Figure an average pace of about 2 1/2 feet.  Start off stepping out with your left foot.  Every time your right foot comes down will be about 5 feet.  You might want to measure your own stride for better precision.  Ideally divide the distance in thirds and place additional flares or signals at 1/3 and 2/3 the distance to the first flare.    Be aware that road flares are essentially burning metal and can easily ignite spilled fuel, so do not light them near an accident where fuel spills have or may occur nor in an area where fire restrictions are in affect.  The next step is to make sure the vehicle won't roll.  Set the parking brake firmly AND chock the wheel kitty corner from where you'll be changing the tire.  Put on your  work gloves before chocking the wheels.  The chocks are often dirty or may have sharp edges.  It is especially important to chock the wheels when changing a rear tire since most emergency brakes operate on the rear wheels or drive line and lifting even one wheel of the ground and possibly reducing the weight on the other may allow the vehicle to roll.  Locate your lug wrench and jack and prepare them for use.  Use the lug wrench to "break loose" the lug nuts before you begin jacking the vehicle.   Otherwise the wheel may just spin when you try to loosen the lug nuts with the wheel off the ground.  If you have limited strength or the lug nuts are exceptionally tight you may need an extension on the handle of the lug wrench to get sufficient leverage to loosen them.  I've seen special weighted lug wrenches that act kind of like a hand powered impact wrench but they're large, heavy, expensive, and hard to find.  Sometimes you can use a piece of galvanized or iron pipe that fits over the handle of the lug wrench.  You may have to remove a wheel cover or individual lug nut covers to reach the actual lug nuts.  Place the jack carefully according to the vehicle manufacturer's instructions.  Almost all vehicles have designated jacking points.  If you are using a different jack than the one supplied with the vehicle and it won't fit the designated jacking points, locate the jack under a strong suspension component such as a leaf spring mounting point or the vehicle frame.  Monitor the vehicle for unwanted movement as you begin jacking it up.  It if starts to lean too much, starts to roll, or the jack starts to tip, STOP immediately and correct the problem before proceeding.   Correction might include adjusting the position of the jack and/or doing a better job of chocking the wheels.   Jack the vehicle high enough to remove the tire and install the spare.  You may be able to remove the flat tire long before the vehicle is high enough to install the fully inflated spare.  That's OK.  Go ahead and get the old one off and position the new one so you can see how much higher you have to go to install it.  Only jack the vehicle up just enough to get the new tire on without scraping it on the lug nuts or having to force it at the bottom.  About a half inch or so clearance below the tire is about right for normal installation.  Once you have the new tire in place, re-install the lug nuts.  Unless the threads are damaged you should be able to spin the lug nuts down until the conical portion engages the holes in the wheel to center the wheel.  Tighten the lug nuts as much as you can  using the lug wrench before lowering the jack, then finish tightening them fully after the wheel is back on the ground.  Ideally they should be torqued to factory specifications but almost no one (include tow truck drivers) carry a torque wrench.   Tighten them as much as you can pushing near the very end of the lug wrench furthest away from the nut.  If the wheel covers are held in place by the lug nuts you'll need to install them before putting on the lug nuts too.  Don't attempt to fully tighten them until you have the wheel back on the ground, but do tighten them enough to seat them in the holes in the wheel and cinch the wheel into place before lowering the vehicle.  When it is back on the ground, fully tighten the lug nuts.  Unless you are extraordinarily strong you should probably tighten them as much as you can with your hands and arms.  DO NOT jump on the lug wrench or use a long extension on the handle as this may exert sufficient force to strip them!  If you are of diminutive build and strength, the use of an extension might we warranted, but take care not to over tighten and strip the nuts.  Then reinstall any snap on wheel covers, hub caps, or lug nut covers, gather up and store your tools and flat tire, and you should be ready to go.  Be careful handling the flat tire.  Many times the steel wires inside may have been exposed and they can inflict serious injuries.  Wear sturdy work gloves.  They will also protect your hands from the grime you can expect on a flat tire.

Personal Protective Equipment for changing a tire may include gloves, coveralls, and a reflective vest.  Gloves are needed to protect your hands against not only dirt and grime but sharp edges you are likely encounter on a damaged tire.  Coveralls protect your clothing.  A Class II DOT safety vest will help make you more visible to passing motorists.  This is especially important if you are changing a tire on the left side of your vehicle, putting you next to traffic.  I prefer the Class III DOT vest which is designed with additional reflective material for extra nighttime visibility.  Both types of vests are fairly inexpensive and available at safety equipment shops.  You may also find them in auto parts and department stores like Walmart.  The Class II vest is only appropriate for day times activities; you should have a Class III vest for proper nighttime visibility and the Class III vest can be used in daylight too.

Changing a tire on a motorcycle or other OHV usually involves patching or replacing a damaged inner tube.   You will usually need some kind of stable stand to lift the vehicle up so the damaged tire is hanging free.  An ATV or side-by-side is much like changing the tire on a car -- if you have a spare to put on.  For a motorcycle, raise the vehicle and place it on a stable stand, then loosen the axle nut and remove the axle.  Carefully slide the disc brake (if so equipped) off of the caliper.   With drum brakes you will have to disconnect the brake cables so you can slide the wheel off with the brake assemble still inside the drum.   On rear wheels you may have to slide the whole wheel assembly forward to loosen and remove the chain.  Once you have the wheel and tire assembly removed, you will need to separate the tire from the wheel.  You can do this with the tire and wheel laying flat on the ground.  Securing it to a stand at waist level will be more comfortable.  Then, locate the rim lock and loosen the nut the holds it in place.  Then press down firmly on the top of the rim lock bolt to push it down inside the tire and away from the bead.  Removing the tire from the wheel requires special tools called tire irons. You will need at least two.  Three or a special tool called a "Bead Buddy" makes it easier.  When pushing the tire irons between the tire bead and the rim and leveraging the bead away from the rim, take care not to insert them in too  far and pinch the tube or you'll do more damage to the tube and may be forced to replace it when the tool rips a hole too big to patch.  Using two or three tire irons, work your away around the tire until the bead is entirely on the outside of the rim.  Make sure the bead opposite where you are working is down in the middle of the rim to give you the slack you need to lever the bead over the rim. Here is where a "Bead Buddy", an extra tire iron, or a second pair of hands comes in handy.  You should now be able to pull out the inner tube to repair or replace it.  If you are going to replace the tire you will need to remove it entirely from the rim, working the second bead over the rim using the tire irons like you did the first one.  Remember, making sure the bead opposite where you are working is down in the middle of the rim will give you the slack you need to lever the bead over the rim.   Inner tubes can sometimes be patched using simple self-adhesive bicycle tire patches but I prefer to use hot-vulcanizing patches.  The patches in this system come attached to little diamond-shaped metal trays.  You position the patch where you want it and hold it in place with a special clamp that is part of the patching system, then light the material in the tray to heat the patch in place.  Allow the whole shebang to cool for a while after the tray stops burning, then carefully pull the tray away from the tube and the patch.  Vulcanized patches not only stick better, they tend to be heavier.  When installing an inner tube, either one you have patched or a brand new one, put a little air (but not too much) in it to give it some shape first.  Then dust it with talc or baby powder so it doesn't stick to the rim or the tire. I usually put the valve stem in first and reinstall the valve cap so it doesn't get pulled back inside the wheel while maneuvering the rest of the tube in place. Some heavy duty tubes have a nut on the valve stem to hold it securely in place and make sure it doesn't get pulled at an angle.  Carefully work the tube inside the tire before levering the bead back over the rim.  Take care not to pinch the tube with the tire irons.  Check to make sure the tube isn't pinched between the tire and the rim and then inflate the tire.  You will usually have to over-inflate it way above the operating pressure to get the bead to seat on the rim.  Usually you will hear the bead "pop" into place.  Inspect the entire circumference of the wheel to make sure the bead is fully seated before re-installing the wheel on the vehicle.  If there are still gaps, you might try bouncing the tire on the ground at that point to get the bead to pop into place or just keep applying more air pressure until it does go into place.   If all else fails, you may have to remove the tire again and lubricate the bead and reinstall the tire.  When the bead is seated adjust the pressure to the desired operating pressure and re-install the wheel.  Be sure the line up the brake disc properly with the caliper and make sure it doesn't twist and bind as you slide the wheel into place.  Be sure to reinstall the brake assembly into the drum for drum brakes and then  remember to reconnect the brake cable.  On rear wheels you'll need to slide the wheel way forward of the proper operating position to get the chain back in place on the sprocket.  Then install the axle.  Once everything is in place, push the wheel back until the proper chain tension is achieved.  Lacking a specific measurement I look for about two fingers worth of movement in the middle of the chain.  Then tighten the axle bolts and you should be ready to ride.  Patching ATV or side-by-side tire requires much the same procedure, but you usually don't have sprockets  attached to the wheels and you may have to loosen and remove the brake calipers.  The large tires used on these vehicles may be difficult to change using ordinary tire irons.  Sometimes it even requires professional pneumatic tire changing machines to remove and reinstall ATV and side-by-side tires.  Here is a link to a video claiming to be The Easy Way To Remove A Dirt Bike Tire.

Changing bicycle tires follows a procedure similar to changing a motorcycle tire but it will be a lot easier.   Bicycle tires are softer and the larger wheel diameter and smaller tire profile gives you more slack to work with.  Bicycle tire irons are much smaller and often have notches in them so they can be clipped to the spokes to keep one in place while you more another, making it easier for one person to do the job.  Take care when inflating bicycle tires.  It isn't unusual to pop them if you try to put in too much air.  You do want to make sure the bead is "set" -- that is, seated tightly on the rim.  Sometimes you have to over inflate the tire a bit to get the bad to "pop" into place.  Then let out just enough air to reach your desired riding pressure.

Keep rolling, rolling, rolling!

Pre-trip RV Route Checking

It may not always be possible, but when it is, try to check out your routes before you try to take your RVs on them.   Its not a bad idea for tent campers either, but RVs are larger, more vulnerable and more difficult to manage if you encounter damaged roads or detours.  If you are only going to be driving on freeways or major highways you probably only need to determine if there are any construction detours or traffic accidents that will impede your travel.  You can usually do that on your state DOT web site or via Tripadvisor.com.   But whenever you move off onto secondary roads and especially if you expect to be traveling on dirt or gravel roads to reach remote campgrounds or dispersed camping sites you need to get as much information about the route as possible.  When you can, take a drive in a car, motorcycle, or better yet a 4WD vehicle to familiarize yourself with your planned route before you head down the road in your motorhome or towing your trailer.  Its a lot easier to avoid a bad situation -- or get out of one -- in a smaller vehicle and then plan another route or another trip for your "big rig" if you encounter difficult terrain.  I like to use my 4wd pickup for pre-trip route checks.  That way, if I do encounter mudslides other difficulties I will be better prepared.  If you can't pre-drive your route, be sure to talk to someone who knows it well enough to advise you if it is compatible with your rig, preferably someone who as driven something similar to your rig on the same route.  Previewing your route is especially important if any segments will be in primitive areas where you may be exploring poorly maintained roads or even going off-road but it is still a good idea to checkout your planned on-road routes too.  Maps don't always identify weight, height, or length limitations or other situations, like road construction, mudslides, or repairs, that might make RV travel inadvisable.  When you can, check out the route via the Internet.  Any construction or even accidents along most major highways will usually be reported on state Department of Transportation (DOT) web sites, allowing you to make alternate plans to avoid lengthy, boring, fuel and time wasting delays.

Make sure your information is up to date.  A recent rain may have washed out bridges or roads or there may be recent construction activity so even when headed to places you've been before, get up to date information before you leave home.  I once encountered a whole section of a familiar paved state highway I often used that had become impassable from rain that came down while I was en route.  Much of the road was covered with mud and rocks that had been washed down and most of the entire lane on the downhill side of the road had been completely washed away.

Not long ago we fell into the unknown route trap and ended up with a lot of regrets.  We had asked someone who should have been knowledgeable (but wasn't) if the route was OK for our big motorhome and motorcycle trailer (total length about 55').   Following the instructions we were given, we started down a dirt road into a big sand wash to locate an OHV group we were supposed to be camping and riding with based solely on some simple but incomplete directions from a fellow rider.  There were already several groups of large RVs camped below so we assumed there was reasonable access.  Bad assumption!  What appeared to be the main access road down into the wash petered out without warning after a few  hundred yards down the hill.  We soon found ourselves on a narrow, rocky, sandy "road" (more of a goat path actually) that promised great trials coming back out and delivered some rather nasty tweaking of our rig on the way down.  We did in fact get stuck in the deep sand trying to get back out.  Thanks to the skills of some good Samaritans from a nearby camp who happened to be experienced over-the-road truck drivers, we were able to get our rig (40' motorhome and 15' enclosed motorcycle trailer) towed and backed down out of the sand so we could drive out another way.  Turns out there were at least three paths down the hill and none of them were very compatible with a rig our size.  By the time we got out, we had leaks near the water heater, both holding tanks were dripping, and the rather expensive electric tongue jack on our motorcycle trailer was damaged beyond repair.  We could have saved ourselves a lot of aggravation and expense by walking or otherwise checking out the route prior to committing ourselves in our 40' motorhome and 15' enclosed motorcycle trailer.  We were lulled into a sense of security by the presence of many large rigs clustered in several groups on the valley floor, but obviously they must have chosen a different route than we did, probably one that entered through one end of the valley.  The one we drove down appeared to be the "main road" when we started on it but it quickly petered out to become inadequate for just about anything but an OHV, 4 wheel drive vehicle, or a mountain goat!  By then there was no place to turn around and backing back up the hill wasn't feasible.  In more the 30 years of desert camping in the Mojave Desert we never encountered so many problems total even though we drove into some very remote staging areas, but in looking back, we were either following experienced campers or had become familiar with new areas via our dirt bikes before we attempted to drive our motorhome into previously unknown remote locations.  More recently we have pre-driven two different venues for dirt bike outings in our 4x4 pickup, selecting routes and campsites that were comfortably accessible to our rig.  We made each trip of exploration into an afternoon sight-seeing tour and picnic and when we returned another time with our motorhome and trailer for an extended outing we could do so with confidence and without incident.  No doubt many of the big RVs in the valley had entered from some valley floor entrance at either end that we were unaware of.

One thing to watch for even on level terrain, are diagonal ruts crossing the road.  They don't need to be extremely deep to cause rather severe rocking and tweaking of large rigs, with sometimes devastating results.    Ruts that are perpendicular to the road are less likely to tweak your RV, unless you hit them too fast, but diagonal ruts will twist the body severely, even at very low speeds.  You can drive slowly over ruts perpendicular to your direction of travel but diagonal ruts will twist your rig no matter how slow and easy you cross them.  I once saw a 4x4 mini-pickup stuck in some diagonal ruts.  The body was perfectly level but the front and rear axles were at right angles to each other with the right front wheel and left year wheel in a deep ditch and the other two wheels up on the level.  Some of the least of the problems are the spilling of contents of cabinets.  Having a refrigerator pop open usually offers even more messy problems to deal with.  Ruts that cross the road at approximately right angles let both front wheels and both rear wheels drop in and out of the depression at the same time.  This causes tilting forward and backward but diagonal ruts drop just one wheel at time, causing twisting and tweaking as well.  Tweaking of the body can crack the fiberglass or aluminum skin, sometimes cracks windows and windshields, and even damage the structural framing.  It can also crack plumbing and holding tanks creating messy and expensive repairs.  If you encounter diagonal ruts that you can't avoid, be sure to ease through them as slowly as possible so the tweaking is as gentle as you can make it.  Sudden, violent twists are sure to cause damage.  More gentle twisting might create less damage, but any radical twisting, no matter how slow and gentle, is likely to break something.  Shifting contents in cabinets, drawers, and tool boxes can occur even on normal roads and can be a really big problem on rough roads.  Take extra care opening cabinets after any kind of violent maneuvers to avoid getting a face full of the contents.  The stuff in drawers may shift to where the drawer can't even be opened.  In that case about all you can do is jiggle it as much as you can to try to get things to settle enough to get it open -- unless there is a way to reach into it from the side or back from an adjacent cabinet or by removing an adjacent drawer.  It is always a good idea to organize the contents of your drawers and cabinets in a way that will reduce the chances of jamming when you encounter rough roads or unusually violent maneuvers.  Try hard not to overfill drawers as that makes it very difficult to jostle contents down enough to get the drawer open once they've been scrambled by too much bouncing.

Of course if you only camp in developed campgrounds accessible by paved roads you aren't as likely to encounter these kinds of problems compared to off-roaders who by design are headed into remote areas where difficult terrain is to be expected.  But that doesn't mean you are entirely exempt from the need to pre-drive your route.  Checking things out ahead of time can alert you to potential obstacles, such as narrow roads or narrow bridges, low overpasses, especially steep grades, road construction, and size and weight restrictions.  Even when your plans included only paved roads you may sometimes encounter problems created by flash floods or mudslides that would create hazards to your travel, sometimes leaving ruts and other obstacles that are at least as formidable as bad off-road routes.  Mud and gravel accumulation from run-off can be deceiving.  It may look like you can get over it but often it hides eroded pavement and soft spots where you can get stuck or that can swallow entire rigs, or the weight of the rig may cause the already loosened ground to give way, toppling your rig or send it sliding or tumbling down the slope below the road.

These days you might be able to pre-view some potentially difficult roads using a camera-equipped drone.  Be sure it is legal operate drones in the area before launching yours.    Viewing  a road from a drone will help you identify major issues but actually driving it is still the best way to make sure it will be safe for your RV.

Always check it out!

Off Highway Vehicles (OHVs)

There are many kinds of vehicles that are considered off highway vehicles  (OHVs).  The term most often is used regarding dirt bikes, ATVs, ATCs, side-by-sides (Utility Task Vehicles or UTVs), dune buggies, and 4x4s but could also be used to describe  snowmobiles and personal watercraft. Technically, mountain bikes and even off-road skateboards could be considered OHVs, but the term is usually applied to motor powered vehicles.  You ride dirt bikes, ATVs, ATCs, Jetskis, and Snowmobiles, straddling a seat or saddle and using handlebars.  You drive UTVs or side-by-sides, dune buggies, and 4x4s, sitting in a seat (with seat belts) and using a steering wheel.  In most places you must be licensed driver at least 16 years of age to drive a UTV, dune buggie, or 4x4. Laws regarding dirt bikes and ATVs vary from state to state.

Dirt bikes are off-road motorcycles.  They have two wheels.  They are rated by engine size and typically range from 50cc to 650cc.  Dirt bikes are the most difficult land based motorized OHVs to learn to ride.  Like riding a bicycle, you must learn to balance the motorcycle to keep it upright but the engine provides a gyroscopic effect that gives some assistance.  They are popular for riding single track trails and have the capability to ride on trails that cross slopes without falling over (unless the rider is careless or incompetent).  An advanced form of dirt bike is the motocross bike.  These are specially equipped and tuned for racing on motocross and Supercross tracks but you will often see them ridden by recreational riders on the trails.  They are fast and powerful and capable of performing many stunts, such as wheelies and jumps in the hands of an experienced rider.  Dirt bikes are usually designed to carry only one rider but some are or can be configured to carry an additional passenger with the addition of a second set of foot pegs and an extended seat.  

Early motorcycles were, by necessity, off road machines, or, more correctly using today's language, dual sport machines.  The lack of developed roads in the early 20th Century meant most vehicles had to be capable of at least some off road operation.  The first dirt bikes specifically for off road riding and racing were custom made by riders themselves from Triumph and Rickman street motorcycle components starting in the 1940s.  Then, seeing a potentially profitable market, Japanese companies like Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, and Kawasaki started manufacturing factory dirt bikes for retail sale.  A friend of mine bought the 2nd Yamaha IT 400 sold in the United States and we owned it for several years.  Other prominent brands include KTM (Austria), Husqvarna (Sweden), and ATK (United States).  Dirt bikes are made for riding in the the dirt.  If you must ride on pavement, exercise extra caution.  The knobby tires are not designed for use on pavement and could cause an accident.  Dirt bikes are normally not legal to be ridden on paved roads but can sometimes be "dual sported" to qualify for occasional street use.  There are special "D.O.T." knobbies that are street legal, but as with most compromises, they aren't as good on the street as normal highway tires nor as good in the dirt as off road tires.  ATV tires are especially dangerous on the road.  Ive read that most ATV accidents occur on paved roads and some of them have been fatal.  Pavement isn't as forgiving as grass or dirt

ATCs (All Terrain Cycles) were predecessors of the ATV and have 3 wheels.  They are sometimes called 3-wheelers.  They were only manufactured and sold for a few years due to purported dangers associated with them.  It is often thought they were banned in the United States by Federal law.  In reality, the threat of a Federal ban caused the manufacturers to impose their own moratorium in accordance with a consent decree during which they turned their attention to 4-wheel ATVs.  You can still find a few pre-owned ATCs around, but new ones have not been sold  in the United States since the mid 1980s.  There were some inherent design features that were blamed for a number of accidents, some of them fatal.  Some notable examples are:  running over your own foot with one of the rear wheels (I NEVER did that with my dirt bike!) and the perception that their 3-wheeled tricycle format made them easy to ride.  The latter often drew young or novice riders who quickly exceeded their personal limits and found themselves in serious trouble.  Another anomaly that gave inexperienced ATC riders problems was that, unlike bicycles and motorcycles, leaning into a turn could cause you to turn the opposite way!  For example, leaning left would transfer extra weight onto the left rear wheel, giving it more traction and causing it to move forward faster than the right rear wheel, forcing the ATC to turn right regardless of which way the front wheel was turned.  Manufacturers steadfastly denied that ATCs were inherently more dangerous than dirt bikes, but the public perception of their faults led to government investigations and ultimately to the demise of their production. Contrary to popular belief, they were never outlawed.  Rather, a voluntary moritorium was implemented by the manufacturers to avoid legal restrictions.  By the time the moratorium had expired, manufacturers had replaced their 3-wheeled ATCs with 4-wheeled ATVs, which were much more stable, and had no interest in reviving the much-maligned three-wheelers.  If you should find one in good condition it can be fun to ride.  Just be aware of its limitations and idiosyncracies!  I suspect building machines with 3 wheels was less expensive than building them with 4 wheels so 3-wheelers came before 4-wheelers.

ATVs or 4-wheelers are 4-wheeled off highway vehicles that replaced the ATCs.  They are popular as recreational toys and as working utility vehicles on farms and ranches and in the forest.  Many are equipped with 4WD making them capable of negotiating low traction situations like mud, sand, and snow.  Their stability lends them to search and rescue operations, both for carrying gear and transporting patients.

Side-by-sides or UTVs are kind of like a large ATV or a small 4x4, depending on your perspective.  They get their name from the seating configuration that puts at least 2 people sitting side-by-side as they would in a Jeep or a sports car.  Larger units may have 4-6 seats.  You steer them with a steering wheel, just like a car.  All side-by-sides I've seen have 4 wheel drive, bu there some 2WD models.  They usually provide a quite comfortable ride, with wheel travel that rivals dirt bikes.  The larger units are sometimes prohibited on ATV trails because of  their additional width.  Being larger and more complex, they can be significantly more expensive than dirt bikes and ATVs, but if some of your party is happy riding as a passenger instead of operating the vehicle themselves, they might be cost effective.  For example, one UTV can could carry 4 people and may cost less than 4 dirt bikes, depending on the model and optional features.  Some popular examples of side-by-sides are the Yamaha Rhino, the Kawasaki Mule, the Polaris RZR, and the Arctic Cat Wildcat.  Like ATVs, side-by-sides are often used as utility vehicles for farm and ranch work.  In fact, the Kawasaki Mule was at first a farm and ranch utility vehicle that users adapted for recreational use.  UTVs are fairly stable on pavement but driving them on paved roads for any distance will cause premature tire wear.  They are not typically licensed for on road operation.

Dune buggies are another form of off highway vehicles that can provide a lot of family fun.  There are two basic styles of dune buggies I am familiar with:  rails and fiberglass bodies.  Most are built on Volkswagen or Corvair chassis  The rear-mounted, air-cooled engines seem particularly well suited to dune buggies.  Rails typically have one or two bucket seats while fiberglass body version usually seat 4 people comfortably and safely.  I once owned a Corvair-powered dune rail and had the privilege of driving the fiberglass bodied dune buggy used by Steve McQueen in the Thomas Crown Affair.  It belonged to one of my dirt biking buddies.

4x4s typically used for off road recreational purposes include the venerable Jeep, which found its first service as a general purpose military vehicle in World War II and many 4 wheel drive pickups.  Many of todays SUVs also come in a 4 wheel drive configuration that is sometimes used for off roading.  Because of the size of these vehicles they are unable to travel on designated dirt bike or ATV trails but are excellent for riding fire roads and other unimproved roads.  Some 4x4s are modified to be "rock crawlers", who compete in rigorous events challenging the ability of machine and driver to climb over large boulder and ascend steep, rocky slopes.  A popular option on many 4x4s (especially rock crawlers) is a power winch, which can be used to pull the vehicle through especially difficult terrain and pull it out if it gets stuck.  Since many 4x4s are modified highway vehicles they often are street licensed.

Mountain bikes are sometimes considered off road vehicles and are banned from designated wilderness areas and many hiking trails.  Properly equipped mountain bikes in the hands of a competent rider can handle remarkably difficult terrain.  Forest and desert trails are popular venues for mountain biking.  The "slick rock" area around Moab in south eastern Utah is one of the most famous places for mountain biking.  Mountain bikes often share dirt bike trails in many locations.

Snowmobiles are an off highway vehicle for winter use.  You ride them kind of like an ATV, sitting on the saddle and steering with handlebars connected to skis up front.  The drive is provided by a single, center mounted. tank type rubber track that gives excellent traction in the snow.  Snowmobiles come in at least two major categories:  trail machines and powder machines.  Trails machines are ideal for use on groomed snowmobile trails and roads but if you want to go cross country and make your own trails, you'll probably want a powder machine.  Powder machines are usually bigger and more powerful so trail rated machines are best for beginners.  Beginners would do well to seek out groomed snowmobile trails until they gain sufficient skills to venture off the trail.

Jet skis and other personal watercraft are sometimes included in the category of OHVs, but in common usage OHV usually pertains to land toys.  Jet skis are sometimes called "wet bikes", connoting that they are similar to dirt bikes for the water.  They are, in fact, ridden like a motorcycle, straddling the saddle or seat and steering with handlebars.

Tracked OHVs.  Some years ago there was a cute little tracked OHV called a Trackster.  It was manufactured by Cushman, who is better known for their motor scooters.  Tracksters are no longer manufactured but there are still a few around if you search for them.  The tank-like tracks give them incredible off road capabilities -- in dirt, sand, mud, and snow  Tracksters can go just about anywhere.  My uncle, who was a dealer for them when I was in my teens, took us for a ride up a steep set of hundreds of concrete steps to the top of one of the benches near his home.  It was quite a ride!  There are a few specialized ATVs or specially modified ATVs  and side-by-sides that ride on tracks and you can even by track kits for larger 4x4s.  These kits usually replace each wheel with a triangular track that has its own 3 wheels.  For normal driving the track rotates around all three of its wheels but when climbing over an obstacle the whole assembly may rotate, giving the vehicle ability to climb over things like rocks and logs.  Track kits are relatively expensive so you will probably need a very good reason for converting your 4x4.

 

There are track kits available to convert ATVs, UTVs, and other 4x4 vehicles and even dirt bikes from wheeled to tracked format.   They are fairly expensive but are promising adaptations that could expand the capabilities of wheeled off road vehicles.  Tracked vehicles can often traverse difficult terrain and obstacles that would stop a wheeled vehicle.  There are even track conversions for dirt bikes.

Personal safety is an important consideration for all OHV activities.  First of all, make sure your machine is in good condition and that none of its factory installed safety features have been removed or disabled.  Second, get appropriate training and practice to ensure you can safely operate the machine.  This means more than just being able to move in a straight line and negotiate turns.  You need to understand the capabilities and the limitations of your equipment as well as your ability to control the machine.  Last but certainly not least, wear appropriate Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) and correct use of safety devices (such as seat belts on UTVs).  The PPE you need will depend on the type of vehicle you're riding.  I strongly recommend full body armor for riding dirt bikes, ATCs, and ATVs, and at least helmets and goggles when riding  UTVs and 4x4s.  Personal water craft require appropriate, US Coast Guard approved flotation devices.  One final bit of advice:  those cool tricks you see in the Supercross, X-games, or during other televised off-road events, are performed by professional riders with years and years of special training and their equipment usually includes significant modifications to enhance both performance and safety.  Don't try to imitate their antics!  Performing an incredible stunt may look like fun, but without proper training, experience, and equipment, it is likely to have extremely painful (possibly fatal) and very expensive results.

Have fun off road!