Camping in Snow!

Because for many if not most of us, camping is a summer activity, snow is usually not a problem. However, if you do any winter camping or RVing or even venture out either early or late in the season, you may encounter snow. One of my family's favorite outings was our annual "Turkey In The Dirt" Thanksgiving dirt bike trip to the Mojave Desert. Most years the weather was fairly mild, as is normally the case year-round in southern California. However, one year, we did encounter snow, and it seriously changed many aspects of our trip. Our original destination was miles off the paved road, up and down several rocky hills, and we hadn't gone more than 50 yards or so off the highway when we encountered 8-12" of snow on top of slimey, slippery mud and it became apparent we shouldn't go any further. We managed to extricate ourselves, get back on the highway, and moved on to another location where the camp site was closer to the road, on level ground without any hills to negotiate. Much of that trip was spent in the cozy confines of the motorhome, staying warm, playing games, watching movies, drinking hot chocolate, and enjoying other indoor activities. I don't find dirt bikes much fun to ride in the snow. ATVs, especially those with 4 wheel drive are much more stable and appealing for riding on the white stuff and side-by-sides are really fun in the snow. And, of course, a cozy motorhome would make an excellent base camp for snowmobiling and other winter activities, like sledding, skiing, and ice fishing.  Just make sure your RV is properly equipped to prevent the plumbing, holding tanks, and dump valves from freezing.  I encountered winter weather conditions on more than one Boy Scout "Fall Encampment" with my sons.  Believe me, getting caught unprepared for bad weatehr will quickly turn you into a believer in planning for the worst!

Impacts on driving. If you haven't already reached your destination when it begins to snow, you'll have to deal with slick roads and reduced visibility. You may also encounter reduced traction and slippery and muddy surfaces when heading into a primitive camping area such as we frequented in the Mojave Desert. All of these conditions require increased awareness and attention to your surroundings and what your vehicle is doing. Unless you've already done a lot of snow camping or other outdoor winter activities, you probably won't know how your rig will behave when you try to navigate slick roads or deep snow. Snow also causes navigation problems. Reduced visibility from falling or blowing snow coupled with fogging of windshields can seriously hamper your ability to see where you're going. Snow can also alter familiar landmarks and stick to road signs, making it difficult to tell where you are and know when and where to turn. Your best bet is to find a safe location and wait out the storm. If you must continue driving, exercise caution. You will need more room to stop and turn your rig on slick roads. Slow down well ahead of any sharp turns or stops. If your vehicle isn't equipped with ABS braking systems, pump the brakes to avoid having the brakes lock up.  Brakes work by converting the kenetic energy of your moving vehicle into heat from friction between the brakes and the drums or rotors.   Once they lock up, the only "braking" is the already significantly reduced friction between your tires and the slippery road! Even wet roads loose about 50% of traction.  Snow and icy, frozen pavement bring a it lot closer to zero!  Once the brakes are locked, you will also loose the ability to steer your vehicle since the patch of rubber on the slick road can slide in any direction, most likely the one your vehicle is already heading regardless of which way you turn the wheels. Your front wheels need to be rolling to steer the vehicle.  If you're planning to drive where you will encounter snowy roads, carry tire chains to fit your vehicle.  Many highways REQUIRE tire chains when it snows.  Count on it taking a lot longer than usual to get to your destination, especially if you have to put on tire chains.  In addition to the time it takes to install them, you'll have to drive much slower than you would on clear pavement.  Practice putting the chains on at home so you can avoid the learning curve while lying in the snow or slush alongside the highway to install them when needed.  You usually only need tire chains on the driving wheels, but adding them to the front wheels of rear wheel drive vehicles will improve traction for steering.  If  you have dual rear wheels, as many motorhomes do, chains are usually used only on the outside tire but, if possible they should also be installed on the inside tire.   The extra time you spend lying in the snow under  your motorhome to install tire chains on inside duals may expose you to additional traffic dangers as well as to freezing!  Some places, like California do specify installing chains on both tires "if possible" when you have dual wheels.  That might require extra wide chains to cover both tires or having two sets of chains.  Installing two sets of chains can be extremely difficult if the clearance between the duals is tight.

Snow in camp. Snow that comes up while you're in camp may affect your departure plans. Unless you're pretty sure you can make it home -- or at least out of the snow zone -- before there is much accumulation, you probably shouldn't leave when it starts to snow. On the other hand, if heavy snow is predicted, you should clear out as soon as possible to avoid getting snowed in. Your biggest snow problems in camp will probably be due to accumulation. As the snow accumulates, it may hamper your movements between vehicles, dampen firewood, and interfere with many normal activities. Too much accumulation can hamper travel, damage vehicles, and you could get "snowed in" and unable to leave. So try to learn the forecast and act accordingly. Snow can also accumulate on flat surfaces, such as your RV roof, and, if it gets deep enough, the weight may cause structural damage. If you're camping in a tent, you'll want to brush the snow off frequently to prevent buildup that could flatten your tent. If your RV awnings are extended, brush off the snow and roll them up before there is too much build up. Move your firewood under your RV or trailer or put it under a tarp at the first sign of bad weather. Move other camping equipment (chairs, tables, camp stoves, etc) into a sheltered area or cover it with tarp. Cover your OHVs or put them back in the trailer until the weather clears. If snow begins to build up on your RV roof, try to brush it off. The best way to do that is from a ladder beside your RV, because RV roofs are very slippery and you may trip over obstacles like vents hidden in the snow and take an unplanned dive off the roof. That ground comes up awfully fast and awfully hard, even if it is covered in fluffy snow. If snow is in the forecast or you suspect it might snow, makes sure you don't leave anything outside that might be harmed by snow. One of my friends was in the habit of removing his riding boots before going into his RV so they could air out over night and woke up one morning to find 3" of snow in them!

Snow does not have to end an outing. It can cause significant changes in your plans, but, if you are prepared, you may even be able to sit warm and cozy in your RV or tent and enjoy the delicate dance of snowflakes outside. Be sure to have some alternative indoor forms of entertainment readily available, especially if you are camping with children. Books and games are traditional favorites. So is storytelling. If you haven't brought anything with you, try making up your own games. Have the kids try to count snow flakes. The best way to do this is to catch some on a dark piece of paper or cloth, although counting them as they fly by might be fun to try even if it is difficult and frustrating. Watch for animals in the storm. Sometimes the behavior of birds and animals can be very entertaining, amusing, and even educational. If it isn't really nasty outside, you might even try lighting a campfire and enjoying some fresh cooked hotdogs, S'mores, or hot chocolate during a light snow. If nothing else, it will make a good story later -- especially for the kids. If you think you'll be leaving before the snow melts, monitor the accumulation around your rig. Winds may cause snowdrifts to form that could keep your from leaving when you're ready to go. You may be able to dig your way out or want to keep a path cleared before the snow gets too deep to shovel. Sometimes it is tempting to just wait it out, but clearing snow regularly, from roofs, paths, and even the vehicle exit route from your campsite, will make it easier. If you wait until there are 4' drifts in front of your rig, it is going to take a long time to dig your way out when you're ready to leave. If drifts are forming, be especially cautious driving out because you may encounter impassable drifts on the exit roads.

Resource utilization. If you are "trapped" in your RV during a storm you are probably going to consume resources more quickly than usually -- especially propane and battery power, which you'll be using to stay warm and extra cooking that often seems to be a good way to pass the time indoors and feeds our emotional needs as well as filling our bellies. You may consume water and fill holding tanks more quickly too. So...keep any eye on your resources and take steps to conserve BEFORE you run out. One good thing about snow is you can almost always melt it down for fresh water if you're running low. And remember:  don't eat yellow snow!

Auxiliary heat. Unless your RV is specifically equipped for winter camping, your furnace may not be able to keep up with the demand when temperatures dip below freezing during snow storms. Keep doors, windows, curtains, and drapes closed. Cut window inserts from reflective "bubble" insulation (such as Reflectix) so you can use them to reduce heat loss (they'll also help keep your RV cooler in summer). You may need more heat than your standard RV furnace can supply. If you have a generator, you can use electric heaters. We have one that in the form of an electric fireplace that adds a cabin-like ambiance when in use as well as delivering 1500 watts of additional heat. Catalytic propane heaters, both permanently mounted and portable, are other possibilities for boosting your heating capacity. Just read and follow the instructions closely. Even though they don't usually give off toxic fumes they do consume the oxygen, potentially suffocating occupants of a confined space if there is inadequate ventilation.  Constantly running the furnace is going to deplete your battery reserves (unless you're hooked up to shore power), so you will want to monitor  your batter status and either run the engine (on motorhomes) or the generator to recharge the batteries before they get too low to run the furnace.  By the way, you can usually recharge the batteries faster running the vehicle engine than running the generator.  The vehicle alternator puts out a higher powered, regulated electrical current that charges more efficiently than the puny chargers on most RV converters.  A good 3-stage battery charging system will work better than a standard converter, but your best bet for quick charging is usually the vehicle engine.  Even a large V-8 will at idle will probably consume only about the same amount of gasoline as running the generator.  However, the generator taps into the fuel tank higher than the engine fuel line to prevent you from using up ALL your gas running the generator.  If you use the vehicle engine to charge your batteries, keep an eye on your fuel level so you don't run out and end up stranded!

Keeping warm in your tent is more difficult. You may have to snuggle under extra blankets and sleeping bags. Tent heaters may be an option, but extra caution is required to use them safely. If the wind is predictable and blowing away from your tent you might build a campfire in front of the entrance so some of the heat can reflect inside. Again extra caution is required to prevent setting your tent on fire. Don't build it too close and be sure to keep an eye on the wind direction. You might heat some soccer-ball size rocks in your fire and then roll them into your tent to add warmth, but make sure they aren't hot enough to melt or set fire to the tent or sleeping bag fabric. Smaller rocks or foil-wrapped potatoes are a good way to warm your sleeping bag and keep your feet warm. Just make sure they aren't still hot enough to melt or scorch the fabric -- or your feet!  Someone quipped that warm burritos will also warm up your sleeping bag, but the cheese gets between your toes! A Coleman lantern gives off a lot of heat. I normally don't recommend using them inside tents, but as an emergency heat source they can be quite effective if used carefully and with adequate ventilation. Keep them away from fabrics and ensure adequate ventilation so you don't suffocate. If there is already snow on the ground when you set up your tent, tramp the snow down or scrape it away before rolling out your ground cloth -- and be sure to use a ground cloth beneath your tent. Otherwise, warmth from inside the tent will melt the snow beneath it and it will wick up through the floor. Also make sure you brush off all the snow you can from your boots, clothes, and equipment before entering the tent. You probably won't notice extra cold from tracking in snow, but it will make a mess as it melts.  If you must set up a tent on deep snow pack, use an extra sleeping bag or thick sleeping pads between your sleeping bag and the floor of the tent.  You will be more comfortable and less likely to melt the snow under the tent.  You may have to crawl into your sleeping bags to keep warm if all else fails.  There is nothing sissy about avoiding hypothermia!  And, if you are lucky enough to have a partner you are willing to share a sleeping bag with,  you'll both stay warmer than in separate sleeping bags.

Snowy activities. You may not be able to continue your regular activities in the snow. Dirt bikes aren't very stable in the snow. I've seen some innovative rides drive nails through their tires from the inside for added traction,  but the narrow footprint and only 2 wheels is still not very table on snow and ice.  ATVs (quads) fare much better, especially if they are equipped with 4WD. Since side-by -sides are nearly always 4WD, they also fare well in the snow.  But, no matter what you're driving or riding, exercise extra caution.  The snow can effectively camouflage many treacherous obstacles.  Perhaps you should turn your energies toward building snowmen or snow forts instead of venturing out on slippery trails, half-hidden by that white stuff. Just one rock or hidden hole under the snow could quickly spoil your whole day and do reparable damage to you and your vehicle.  Frozen over puddles may look perfectly safe but could be deep enough to swallow your OHV when you break through the ice.

Warming up after cold activities can be a bit of a challenge in camp. It helps if you have a warm RV waiting for you. Hot drinks will do wonders, both for your insides and for your hands as you hold the warm cups. Speaking of warming your hands, placing them in warm water will warm them faster than holding them in front of the campfire. I even cup my hands to hold some warm water to warm my nose when I come in from the cold. Water conducts heat very well; air does not. In fact, the insulation in your home and your sleeping bag is primarily used to create "dead air space" to prevent heat transference. Be sure the water isn't too hot and never put frozen or frostbitten fingers or toes or other body parts in hot water (warm water is OK). If you are tent camping, your tent will provide some shelter but it will be especially inviting and comfortable if you have a tent heater to warm it up. Be sure to provide adequate ventilation, in spite of the potential of heat loss through open windows or vents. A warm campfire will be appealing and, if it is strategically placed in front of your tent door, may also add some warmth there. A good campfire will warm you and help dry your clothes so you stay warmer. You'll lose heat about 25 times faster in wet clothes than in dry.  If you don't have any dry clothes to change in to, wrap yourself up in a blanket or sleeping bag while you dry your clothes by the fire.

Treating frostbite. If a person's skin is turning white and hard or black, or they have lost feeling in the area, seek IMMEDIATE medical attention (call 911). For less serious cases, restore warmth as quickly as possible, but do not warm the skin unless you can keep it warm. Warming it and allowing it to refreeze can make things a lot worse. Better to leave it alone until you can permanently warm it.  Gently warm the area with warm water or wet heat until the skin appears red and warm. If you have no warm water, breathe on the affected area through cupped hands and hold it next to your body. Do NOT use direct heat from dry heating pads, radiators, or fires. Do NOT rub or massage the frostbitten area or break any blisters. Do NOT allow someone with frostbitten toes or feet to walk on them unless it is absolutely necessary. Contrary to a popular myth, do NOT rub snow an area you suspect may be frozen or frostbitten!  Any water in liquid from, even ice water, may be warmer than frozen body parts and warmer than the outside temperatures.  Liquid water, even ice water, will be at least 32°F which may be well warmer than the ambient temperature outside.  Another options, though somewhat disgusting to think about, is to use fresh warm urine to thaw frozen body parts.  I read of a young couple on a first date who were driving in snowy conditions on a mountain road when the girl had an urgent need to urinate.  She sat on the chrome bumper of the car her bare buttocks instantly froze to the cold metal.  Though somewhat embarassing, her date, fortunately, had the wisdom to pee where she was frozen to the bumper and it allowed her to pull free without losing any skin.  How's that for chivalry?

"Let it snow!"