RVing, OHVing, and camping provide many family"teaching moments". I often took advantage of the clear, desert skies for impromptu astronomy lessons for my kids. They all soon knew how to find the north star using the Big Dipper and to recognize Orion, Cassiopeia, and the Seven Sisters. None of that would have been possible back in our suburban home where city lights completely obscure the Milky Way. By the way, did you know there are only six stars in the Seven Sisters? Or that it is the logo for Subaru? I have a small telescope we use for star gazing. It is big enough that we can see the rings of Saturn and the red spot on Jupiter. Having a few esoteric facts about things you might encounter during an outing provides both entertainment and education. There are many good books on astronomy. I think the best ones are also the simplest. I have a thick volume on astronomy that seldom gets used, but I keep one about the size of a Readers Digest Magazine handy to get quick answers to most of the questions that come up around the campfire. And you never know when your knowledge might be challenged. I once made a comment about "basking in the glow of a hydrogen fusion furnace 93 millions miles away" (the Sun) only to have a fellow camper challenge the distance. He thought it was only about 3 million miles, which would put us so close our oceans and even our atmosphere would evaporate and burn away. I pulled out one of my astronomy books to prove my facts and he promptly refused to believe what was right there in front of his face in black and white! He said he'd look it up on the Internet when he got home! Yeah, like everything you read on the Internet is true! For what its worth, I do strive to avoid spreading any falsehoods through this blog. You really don't need to know the details of celestial mechanics or the chemistry of stars to appreciate the beauty and the mythology associated with the major constellations. Teaching moments can be impromptu or planned. Usually the best ones, the ones that make lasting impressions, are ones that at least seem to just happen, even if you've planned ahead for them (like my astronomy lessons). Keep your eyes open and pay attention to opportunities to share experiences with your kids and grand kids while you're out camping. Weather and nature will present many chances for discussion and scientific learning. The geology of many regions is often evident and illustrates the history of our planet better than any book. The route from our home to our favorite dirt bike riding areas in he Mojave Desert took us across the San Andreas fault and the swirls created by its movement were clearly visible where the freeway cut deep across the fault, showing up as a big "S" in the layers of the rock. Who knew rock could bend? You will find interesting geology just about everywhere you go.
Life lessons. I have found some excellent parables in dirt biking to help my kids maintain their perspective on life. For example, focusing on obstacles in your way turns them into "magnetic rocks" that seem to attract your front wheel. You always want to look where you want to go, not at what you want to avoid. Similarly, when climbing a hill, look over the top, not at the obstacles part way up. If you concentrate on the obstacles or difficult section, that's as far as you're going to get, but if your focus is over the top of the hill, that is where you are going to go. These techniques have direct applications in everyday life. If you focus on your problems, they tend to dominate you while focusing on the path through them or beyond them yields a much more productive course. Along the same lines, it is really important to keep things in perspective. Consider the following exercise. Hold a penny by the edge between your thumb and forefinger and hold it up close to your eye so you're looking right at Honest Abe. You will notice that, first of all, the penny nearly blocks your entire view and secondly, that you cannot see the penny clearly. The same thing happens when we focus too intently on our problems. They block out everything else and we can't even see the problems clearly. Think what happens when you hold the penny out at arms length and see it in perspective with the rest of your surroundings. It no longer blocks out everything and not only can you see it more clearly, you can see it in relationship to everything else and recognize its relative size and value. Similarly, when we view our problems correctly and in perspective we can see them more clearly and measure more effectively their significance -- or insignificance. If it won't make any difference 300 years from now, don't worry about it, especially if you can't do anything about it right now anyway.
Responsibility. Our modern world seems to have lost touch with the concept of personal responsibility. Liberal politicians and other "do-gooders" keep shifting personal responsibility away from individuals to "society". They blame "society" for the murderer, the gang-banger, the rapist, the alcoholic, and the drug-addict instead of holding people personally accountable for their own choices and actions. While society unfortunately does contribute to and sometimes fosters evil or criminal behavior, much of what goes on is completely due to poor choices made by individuals. OHV activities provide many opportunities for riders to learn and exercise personal responsibility, starting with cleaning, organizing, and maintaining their equipment and extending to responsible riding behavior. I found dirt-biking gave my kids opportunities to develop both individual self esteem for their personal accomplishments on difficult trails and team work in assisting other riders -- or accepting assistance -- when needed. They also learned (sometimes quite painfully, physically and/or fiscally) that it pays to take proper care of their equipment. And it seldom took more than one time leaving something at home to teach them to make sure they packed everything.
Outdoor skills. There are many outdoor skills that are nurtured in RVing, OHVing, and camping that will serve you and your kids well. Building campfires, caring for the environment, cooking, and first aid are just a few of the fundamental outdoor activities to be exercised while camping. Almost everything we learn from camping helps give us skills that can be used in dealing with disasters where the normal facilities and conveniences we enjoy and take for granted may be interrupted.
Lesson plans? For the most part, you don't need any formal lesson plans. Just be prepared to recognize and take advantage of the opportunities that present themselves. Some things, such as astronomy, may require a little advance work (unless you're already a skilled astronomer and already know the constellations and the movement of the planets) so you'll be prepared when you get the chance, but many lessons are taught most effectively by example: cleaning up around your camp site; stopping to help another rider out on the trail; lending your tools and expertise to assist fellow campers; properly maintaining your RV, OHV, and camping equipment -- good examples in these areas will have more impact than hundreds of hours of lecturing. If you don't already have good campfire building skills, you may be able to learn together with you kids. Shared learning is an excellent bonding experience and doesn't necessarily mean your kids will think any less of you because you don't "know it all". The very example you set by admitting and overcoming your own limitations will give your kids life lessons that will help them better deal with the problems they will face throughout their lives. As my kids' riding abilities grew roles switched to where they were teaching me new riding tricks.
Science. Camping provides opportunities to examine many different kinds of science. Campfires demonstrate the "fire triangle" (fuel, heat, oxygen) and are a chance to teach basic fire safety principals. Clear night skies are natural laboratories for astronomy. Every day presents opportunities to explore weather patterns. Exploring stream beds can illustrate the effects of erosion and sometimes reveals geologic features of interest and sometimes even fossils. Observing local plants and animals offer lessons in biology. Maintaining your RV, OHV, and camping equipment teaches mechanical and maintenance skills. Even more cerebral subjects such as mathematics have applications in calculating food, water, fuel, and travel requirements. Map-reading and navigation can be practiced. Even domestic sciences, such as cooking, sewing, and housekeeping also have their place in outdoor recreational activities.
You're ALWAYS teaching. Unless you live the life of a hermit, you are always teaching someone around you, whether they are your spouse, kids, neighbors, or strangers. Sometimes all we teach is what idiots we are ("no one is totally worthless: they can always serve as a horrible example"), but with a little thought as to what we're doing and an awareness that we're "always on", we can make our lessons positive ones -- for ourselves as well as for those around us. For generations, moms have taught their kids to set a good example. We would all do well to remember and follow that lesson.
Remember: example, example, example! "What you are speaks so loudly I can't hear what you're saying!"
Information on recreational vehicles (RVs) and Off Highway Vehicles (OHVs), Camping, Sailing, and Survival
Friday, April 8, 2011
Camping Checklists
Why use checklists? I've mentioned checklists here and there in lots of other posts. I find them useful enough to dedicate an entire post to them. To some folks checklists may be the domain of overly obsessive campers or the weakminded. Some people may consider them unnecessary, but if you've ever arrived at camp and discovered you left some significant item at home, you'll appreciate their value. I have created one for my motorhome, one for my dirt bike trailer, and one for each of us for our personal riding gear. Each one evolved after arriving in camp hundreds of miles away from home and finding we had left something behind. Now, by running through each checklist BEFORE we leave home, we almost never find ourselves leaving anything critical at home. I am not going to give you specific checklists here. You need to develop your own, ones that will meet YOUR specific needs. However, if you're stuck and need a starting place, I will be happy to share mine. Just send me your email and I'll send you a copy of the my Excel spreadsheets. What I do may well be too detailed for you, but it may at least give you a place to start. My email is desertrat@desertrat.org.
Lest you think checklists are for sissies, consider that some of the most sophisticated professions -- air line pilots, surgeons, and astronauts -- all use them religiously.
RV Checklist. My RV checklist goes over routine safety checks like tires, belts and hoses, lights, fluids, brakes, fuel, and clean windows. Also making sure the antenna is down, the awnings are secured in travel position, and the step retracted. I also like to test all the interior lights and all the appliances, including TVs and other entertainment devices. My list also includes a verification of provisions -- edible, medical, tools, sundries,clothing, and recreational/entertainment items. Major kitchen utensils are also on the list as are sundries such as soap, shampoo, and shaving supplies. I have organized mine by "room" or area to save running around. It only takes a few minutes to run through the checklist and it has saved us from coming up short on things on more than one occasion. Checking off things like making sure antennas are down, awnings are secured, and the refrigerator door is latched prevent accidents and spills that quickly spoil a trip or cause expensive damage. You don't have to use my checklist. In fact, mine wouldn't probably be very helpful to you. Make one of your own that meets your needs. For the first few trips it will be a work in progress as you figure out what else needs to be on it -- or what you thought you needed that you've since rejected. Once you have refined it it will be a very useful tool.
OHV Checklist. I use a separate checklist for each of our dirt bikes and the supplies in my dirt bike trailer. The list includes routine maintenance items and safety checks on each bike, fuel and (when appropriate) two-stroke oil, as well as making sure we have all the bikes (with 8 riders in the family, leaving one behind was a possibility). The list of tools and supplies can get quite complex so having a detailed checklist is important for making sure nothing is missing. It is also a good way to make sure you have replenished spare parts you may have used up on a previous trip. I keep things like goggle cleaning solutions and SC-1 detail spray in my dirt bike trailer for use as needed during an outing so those kinds of supplies are also on the checklist. Because fasteners tend to come loose and get lost on the trail, having an adequate supply of appropriate replacements is essential to keeping your rides rideable. Spare parts, like brake levers, master links, hand grips, spark plugs and and inner tubes are essential to keep things running without having to make trip to the nearest motorcycle shop, which, by the way, might be a considerable distance from camp.
Personal Riding Gear Checklist. It is really disappointing to get to camp and find out you've left some of your riding gear home -- or some of it is in need of repair before you can go riding. You shouldn't have to worry about the latter if you're performing your post-trip procedures properly because you will have already cleaned and repaired all your gear. However, the checklist is a good last-minute verification that all is well. I have a separate column for each member of the family and list each piece of riding gear. I encourage each rider to check his or her own gear. It not only saves me time, it helps instill a feeling of responsibility in the kids and helps them learn the value of doing routine cleaning and repairs in a timely manner. Then, if they come up missing something it is no one's fault but their own. I've seen desperate riders try to get by with flip-flops and duct tape when they left their boots at home and I never want to be one of them. Doesn't work very well, especially if you're kick-starting a big-bore bike!
Tent Camping Checklists. You don't have to be camping in an RV or riding OHVs to benefit from pre- and post- trip checklists. There are many pieces of equipment necessary for a comfortable and successful tent camping trip. You don't want to be setting up camp when you realize you didn't bring the tent stakes or tent poles or left your axe or mallet at home. Your checklist should include, at the very least, all the components of your tent, sleeping bags and pads, cots (if you choose to use them), stoves, utensils, pots and pans, tools, food, water, lighting (flashlights and lanterns) spare batteries, lantern and stove fuel, matches, paper towels and napkins, first aid kit, clothing, tools, and games and recreational equipment. Once again, you will find it useful to develop your personal list over a few trips until it fits your needs and eliminates the ordeal associated with having to "wing it".
Personal preparation. You may want to create a checklist for personal preparation. This may be most useful when you have small children or aging parents, but can be helpful for anyone. Personal preparation might include pre-trip hygiene, hydration, clothing, sundries, medications, and personal entertainment.
Checklists? Check 'em out!
Lest you think checklists are for sissies, consider that some of the most sophisticated professions -- air line pilots, surgeons, and astronauts -- all use them religiously.
RV Checklist. My RV checklist goes over routine safety checks like tires, belts and hoses, lights, fluids, brakes, fuel, and clean windows. Also making sure the antenna is down, the awnings are secured in travel position, and the step retracted. I also like to test all the interior lights and all the appliances, including TVs and other entertainment devices. My list also includes a verification of provisions -- edible, medical, tools, sundries,clothing, and recreational/entertainment items. Major kitchen utensils are also on the list as are sundries such as soap, shampoo, and shaving supplies. I have organized mine by "room" or area to save running around. It only takes a few minutes to run through the checklist and it has saved us from coming up short on things on more than one occasion. Checking off things like making sure antennas are down, awnings are secured, and the refrigerator door is latched prevent accidents and spills that quickly spoil a trip or cause expensive damage. You don't have to use my checklist. In fact, mine wouldn't probably be very helpful to you. Make one of your own that meets your needs. For the first few trips it will be a work in progress as you figure out what else needs to be on it -- or what you thought you needed that you've since rejected. Once you have refined it it will be a very useful tool.
OHV Checklist. I use a separate checklist for each of our dirt bikes and the supplies in my dirt bike trailer. The list includes routine maintenance items and safety checks on each bike, fuel and (when appropriate) two-stroke oil, as well as making sure we have all the bikes (with 8 riders in the family, leaving one behind was a possibility). The list of tools and supplies can get quite complex so having a detailed checklist is important for making sure nothing is missing. It is also a good way to make sure you have replenished spare parts you may have used up on a previous trip. I keep things like goggle cleaning solutions and SC-1 detail spray in my dirt bike trailer for use as needed during an outing so those kinds of supplies are also on the checklist. Because fasteners tend to come loose and get lost on the trail, having an adequate supply of appropriate replacements is essential to keeping your rides rideable. Spare parts, like brake levers, master links, hand grips, spark plugs and and inner tubes are essential to keep things running without having to make trip to the nearest motorcycle shop, which, by the way, might be a considerable distance from camp.
Personal Riding Gear Checklist. It is really disappointing to get to camp and find out you've left some of your riding gear home -- or some of it is in need of repair before you can go riding. You shouldn't have to worry about the latter if you're performing your post-trip procedures properly because you will have already cleaned and repaired all your gear. However, the checklist is a good last-minute verification that all is well. I have a separate column for each member of the family and list each piece of riding gear. I encourage each rider to check his or her own gear. It not only saves me time, it helps instill a feeling of responsibility in the kids and helps them learn the value of doing routine cleaning and repairs in a timely manner. Then, if they come up missing something it is no one's fault but their own. I've seen desperate riders try to get by with flip-flops and duct tape when they left their boots at home and I never want to be one of them. Doesn't work very well, especially if you're kick-starting a big-bore bike!
Tent Camping Checklists. You don't have to be camping in an RV or riding OHVs to benefit from pre- and post- trip checklists. There are many pieces of equipment necessary for a comfortable and successful tent camping trip. You don't want to be setting up camp when you realize you didn't bring the tent stakes or tent poles or left your axe or mallet at home. Your checklist should include, at the very least, all the components of your tent, sleeping bags and pads, cots (if you choose to use them), stoves, utensils, pots and pans, tools, food, water, lighting (flashlights and lanterns) spare batteries, lantern and stove fuel, matches, paper towels and napkins, first aid kit, clothing, tools, and games and recreational equipment. Once again, you will find it useful to develop your personal list over a few trips until it fits your needs and eliminates the ordeal associated with having to "wing it".
Personal preparation. You may want to create a checklist for personal preparation. This may be most useful when you have small children or aging parents, but can be helpful for anyone. Personal preparation might include pre-trip hygiene, hydration, clothing, sundries, medications, and personal entertainment.
Checklists? Check 'em out!
Thursday, April 7, 2011
Recent/Ongoing Edits
I have said you can never get too much training. With that in mind, I follow my own advice and continually seek additional information. As I pick up new tips for camping, survival, RVing and OHVing relevant to exiting posts I update them. In April 2011 I invested many hours in going back over and editing previous posts and I do this every so often. Part of it is simply correcting typos and standardizing formats, but in many cases I add information, so, if you have time, you might want to peruse any old posts from time to time for topics that interest you. I may have added something and your experience may have changed so that you see things in a different light. I have also made some changes to standardize the format as it has evolved over the past few months. In every post I've attempted to provide useful information in a format that is easy and fun to read. If you don't find what you're looking for, please feel free to comment or email me and I'll research and respond to your questions. If I don't have personal experience related to your inquiry, I have a network of qualified experts I can draw on.
Editing is an ongoing process. I frequently review previous posts to check for typos and spelling and add content as I think of or come across additional relevant information. So re-reading this blog from time to time may be useful for two reasons: 1) I may have added more content and 2) your experience may be different and you may pick up on things you didn't before.
I practice what I preach. Not only do I re-read my own blog and continue to update it, I frequently re-read trade publications and do additional research on the Internet. I have Motorhome Magazines in a rack in the "library" going back several years and I periodically make a pass through all of them. I subscribe to a number of Pinterest camping topics. I am always on the lookout for new camping and RV gadgets. It drives my wife crazy when I take time to check out the camping section in EVERY store we go into, but I find it useful and enjoyable and I am often pleased when I find good bargains or unique items.
Never stop learning!
Lemont
Editing is an ongoing process. I frequently review previous posts to check for typos and spelling and add content as I think of or come across additional relevant information. So re-reading this blog from time to time may be useful for two reasons: 1) I may have added more content and 2) your experience may be different and you may pick up on things you didn't before.
I practice what I preach. Not only do I re-read my own blog and continue to update it, I frequently re-read trade publications and do additional research on the Internet. I have Motorhome Magazines in a rack in the "library" going back several years and I periodically make a pass through all of them. I subscribe to a number of Pinterest camping topics. I am always on the lookout for new camping and RV gadgets. It drives my wife crazy when I take time to check out the camping section in EVERY store we go into, but I find it useful and enjoyable and I am often pleased when I find good bargains or unique items.
Never stop learning!
Lemont
Thursday, March 31, 2011
OHV and RV Visability
Visibility is an important aspect of using both RVs and OHVs. It even has applications in tent camping to some extent. There are two different kinds of visibility you need to consider: 1) seeing: how well you can see from the operator's position in a motorhome, OHV, or tow vehicle and 2) being seen: how well your RV or OHV, or tent can be seen by other drivers/riders. Hunters know the value of visability, whether they wear camouflage to hide from their quarry or bright orange to prevent other hunters from shooting them. I prefer the bright orange. I figure I'd rather scare away my quarry than get shot!
Seeing. The operator of an RV, tow vehicle, an OHV, or even the family car obviously needs good visibility to safely direct the movement of the vehicle. Most motorhomes, tow vehicles, and cars have pretty good forward visibility -- as long as your windshield is clean and not blocked or impaired by reflections or junk on the dashboard. Immediate lateral visibility is also pretty darn good, but the view anywhere behind the driver is often very restricted, especially in motorhomes and when pulling trailers. Good outside rear-view mirrors help a lot but a back-up camera is even more useful in negotiating your way into cramped campsites with large RVs with out taking out the landscaping and damaging your rig. Lacking a backup camera, having a person outside to direct you can prevent embarrassing and costly mistakes. A pair of inexpensive walkie-talkies help avert misunderstandings that can often come from unclear hand signals or attempts to shout directions, which will often incite the ire of nearby campers. It is critical to keep the windshield clear and free from fogging, ice, snow, and even reflections. There is a tendency for some people to use that big flat surface below the windshield of motorhomes and tow vehicles as a storage shelf. Leaving items lying there presents a couple of hazards that need to be avoided. In almost all cases they can reflect in the windshield and cause distractions or even distortions of what you see. Secondly, they can become unguided missiles in the event of an accident or sudden change of direction. At the minimum, objects flying off the dashboard can distract the driver and, depending on mass, velocity, and shape, can even cause serious injuries to occupants and damage to the unit. Keeping the windshield fog-free can be a challenge in cool, damp weather, especially on the large expanses of glass in many big motorhomes. The addition of fans at each top corner, like those used on trucks, can help -- a lot. There are also anti-fog preparations you can use to reduce the build up of fog on windows and windshields. Keep the outside clean too -- scrape away ice and snow completely before driving. Do not rely on the wipers to simply clear a hole for you to see through. The remaining blockage can completely hide even surprisingly large vehicles and obstacles that could pose significant problems. I've seen lazy drivers scrape only a spot big enough to peek out and that is clearly a recipe for disaster! If you are operating any kind of motor vehicle at night you need good headlights and tail lights so you can see where you are going and so other drivers can see you.
Visibility for OHV operators is usually a function of proper goggles and helmets, although a few OHVs today have windscreens which require the same care as RV or tow vehicle windshields to guarantee good visibility. A properly fitting helmet and clean goggles should give the OHV operator good visibility with one exception: they are usually made of plastic instead of glass. Plastic windscreens need special care to prevent them from getting scratched. Wiping them when they're dusty sill put micro-scratches in the plastic that soon turns it cloudy or even opaque. Wash them with soap and water and dry them with a soft cloth. If badly coated or scratched, try using a good plastic cleaner like Novus to restore clarity. Dirty, scratched, cracked, cloudy, fogged, dusty, or muddy goggles seriously impact what you can see and affect your safety and that of everyone around you. When on the trail on your OHV, take a minute to check and clean your goggles each time you stop along the route. Try not to wipe them with a dry cloth as the dust will put microscratches in the lens that will quickly accumulate to render the lens opaque. Use a little water from your drinking water supply or, in a pinch, a little spit will do. Motocross and desert racers often use 'tear offs' on their goggles to maintain a clear view. These are thin transparent sheets that cover most of the lens and can be ripped off and tossed aside easily when they get muddy or dirty. Be sure to use appropriate lenses -- clear at night and in conditions of low light and shaded lenses in bright sunlight. A bad fitting helmet can also cause problems. One that is too large will not move correctly when you turn your head. It isn't going to be of much use if you end up staring at the inside of your helmet when you try to look left or right! A helmet that is too small will move with your head -- if you can get it on in the first place. But, if you're anything like me, a tight helmet will quickly give you a headache, which doesn't make it any easier to see straight! As always, your protective gear should be appropriate for the activity, should be clean and in good condition, should fit well and be worn properly. Regardless of the type of vehicle, the operator needs to be able to see where they're going and have good visibility to the sides and even rear of the vehicle. Unlike vehicles licensed for on-road use, most OHVs, especially dirt bikes and ATVs, lack rear view mirrors. I found out early in my dirt biking that rear view mirrors were of great value, especially when leading my kids on a ride. You can buy clamp on mirrors at motorcycle shops but my favorites were old fashioned bicycle mirrors. I cut the metal arm down from about 10" to 2" so the " round mirror was just above my hand grips and didn't pose a problem when going through vegetation. These days most bicycle mirrors are mounted on a flexible plastic shaft that vibrates too much to be useful but you can still find solid shaft vintage bicycle mirrors on ebay.
Being seen. You would think being seen isn't problem for big RVs. Don't count on it! I have been in foggy situations where you could get within about 10' of an unlighted motorhome before it became visible through the mist -- and that might be too close to stop! The U.S. Department of Transportation has spent million of dollars studying the visibility of over-the-road trucks, resulting in recommendations for clearance lights and reflective markers. Proper lighting, including headlights, tail lights and marker lights is essential for seeing and being seen on the highway. Since it isn't practical to leave the clearance lights on for extended periods of time when you are camping, having good reflectors can make your vehicle more visible to approaching vehicles. The solution I like best is to add a strip of 3M reflective tape along the entire side of my RV. Done right, it will blend with the original decor and yet will make your RV show up brightly in approaching headlights. For that I used a white tape about the same size an existing stripe on my RV. The red and white striped reflective tape used on semi-trailers has been proven to be highly visible and is a good addition to OHV trailers. I put it on the rear bumper and about a 1' strip near the front and rear on each side of my motorcycle trailer. Studies sponsored by the US DOT found it to be THE BEST at making semi-trailers and over-the-road trucks visible at night. It may not be very pretty, but it could prevent your RV or trailer from being smashed by a roving Jeep or ATV at night. Here's where visibility may be of concern to tent campers. You want to make sure your tent isn't setup where it will be in the way of any errant vehicles. During OHV outings, I've seen ignorant or thoughtless campers set up their tents on trails and even on dirt roads, directly in the path of other riders or vehicles. Sure, it was a nice flat spot with no vegetation, but definitely not a good idea, unless you want to get run over! Make sure you pick a spot that is not in or close to any right of way. At night you might add light sticks or reflectors to make your tent more visible so vehicles and even folks on foot so they don't trample your cloth domicile. Reflective tape is an easy way to highlight your tent. A tent well lighted from the inside usually shows up pretty well at night. Making your tent visible is a second-level precaution. Your first defense should be to set up your tent where it will be out of the way of any roads or trails. You will see pennants flying on staffs on the back of many ATVs, dune buggies, and side-by-sides. You can even buy battery powered strobe lights to put on the top of the staffs. These pennants and lights allow approaching riders to detect your presence and movement (speed and direction) when you and your vehicle may be partially or completely hidden behind a rise, rocks, other vehicles, or vegetation. Pennants are typically not practical nor normally used on dirt bikes. Your best bet of being seen on your dirt bike is to wear bright, even reflective, clothing and to make sure your lights (if you have them) are working. Even during daylight hours, lights make your vehicle more visible. Be careful and watch where YOU are going so you don't needlessly put yourself and your vehicle in the path of another rider. This is especially important when riding criss-crossing desert or forest trails. On desert trails stand up when approaching intersecting trails to make it easier to see and be seen. When riding forest trails, look ahead for intersecting trails and slow down until you can verify there is no traffic on the intersecting route. Also, for all OHV activities, be aware of your environment and avoid putting yourself and your vehicle in obscure places. Lying in wait to surprise your friends could easily backfire if another rider slams into you in your hiding place! And your surprise might cause your friends to lose control and crash, perhaps even into you!
Non-motorized activities. For safety you will want to use good practices to see and be seen in non-motorized activities, such as hiking and hunting. Some hunting activities may require you to blend into the environment, but to avoid being shot by some other hunter, it is a good idea to make yourself very visible. Bright orange clothing is frequently the choice of hunters, but if you are hunting in an area where bright orange fall foliage is common, you may need to choose another color. Unless you are hiking during hunting season (something I highly discourage!), being seen is probably more of a factor if you become lost and rescuers need to find you. Once again, bright colored clothing is helpful although you will want to avoid flowered prints that might attract unwanted insects. Carry a bright colored neckerchief or flag you can display as an emergency signal if necessary. An orange trash bag is a useful tool for many survival activities, including signalling as well as shelter. It can be folded into a small form, weighs little and isn't very expensive. Making yourself visible around camp at night will avoid accidents. Carry a flashlight so you can both see where you're going and be seen by other folks. Wear a jacket or vest with reflective stripes if you have one when moving about camp in the dark. There are clamp on reflective stripes if your jacket doesn't have any reflectivity. You can probably find them at bicycle shops. I think I came across mine at Dollar Tree! You may need a certain amount of privacy for trips to the bushes, but make sure you avoid trails and roads where vehicle traffic might put you in danger.
See and be seen!
Seeing. The operator of an RV, tow vehicle, an OHV, or even the family car obviously needs good visibility to safely direct the movement of the vehicle. Most motorhomes, tow vehicles, and cars have pretty good forward visibility -- as long as your windshield is clean and not blocked or impaired by reflections or junk on the dashboard. Immediate lateral visibility is also pretty darn good, but the view anywhere behind the driver is often very restricted, especially in motorhomes and when pulling trailers. Good outside rear-view mirrors help a lot but a back-up camera is even more useful in negotiating your way into cramped campsites with large RVs with out taking out the landscaping and damaging your rig. Lacking a backup camera, having a person outside to direct you can prevent embarrassing and costly mistakes. A pair of inexpensive walkie-talkies help avert misunderstandings that can often come from unclear hand signals or attempts to shout directions, which will often incite the ire of nearby campers. It is critical to keep the windshield clear and free from fogging, ice, snow, and even reflections. There is a tendency for some people to use that big flat surface below the windshield of motorhomes and tow vehicles as a storage shelf. Leaving items lying there presents a couple of hazards that need to be avoided. In almost all cases they can reflect in the windshield and cause distractions or even distortions of what you see. Secondly, they can become unguided missiles in the event of an accident or sudden change of direction. At the minimum, objects flying off the dashboard can distract the driver and, depending on mass, velocity, and shape, can even cause serious injuries to occupants and damage to the unit. Keeping the windshield fog-free can be a challenge in cool, damp weather, especially on the large expanses of glass in many big motorhomes. The addition of fans at each top corner, like those used on trucks, can help -- a lot. There are also anti-fog preparations you can use to reduce the build up of fog on windows and windshields. Keep the outside clean too -- scrape away ice and snow completely before driving. Do not rely on the wipers to simply clear a hole for you to see through. The remaining blockage can completely hide even surprisingly large vehicles and obstacles that could pose significant problems. I've seen lazy drivers scrape only a spot big enough to peek out and that is clearly a recipe for disaster! If you are operating any kind of motor vehicle at night you need good headlights and tail lights so you can see where you are going and so other drivers can see you.
Visibility for OHV operators is usually a function of proper goggles and helmets, although a few OHVs today have windscreens which require the same care as RV or tow vehicle windshields to guarantee good visibility. A properly fitting helmet and clean goggles should give the OHV operator good visibility with one exception: they are usually made of plastic instead of glass. Plastic windscreens need special care to prevent them from getting scratched. Wiping them when they're dusty sill put micro-scratches in the plastic that soon turns it cloudy or even opaque. Wash them with soap and water and dry them with a soft cloth. If badly coated or scratched, try using a good plastic cleaner like Novus to restore clarity. Dirty, scratched, cracked, cloudy, fogged, dusty, or muddy goggles seriously impact what you can see and affect your safety and that of everyone around you. When on the trail on your OHV, take a minute to check and clean your goggles each time you stop along the route. Try not to wipe them with a dry cloth as the dust will put microscratches in the lens that will quickly accumulate to render the lens opaque. Use a little water from your drinking water supply or, in a pinch, a little spit will do. Motocross and desert racers often use 'tear offs' on their goggles to maintain a clear view. These are thin transparent sheets that cover most of the lens and can be ripped off and tossed aside easily when they get muddy or dirty. Be sure to use appropriate lenses -- clear at night and in conditions of low light and shaded lenses in bright sunlight. A bad fitting helmet can also cause problems. One that is too large will not move correctly when you turn your head. It isn't going to be of much use if you end up staring at the inside of your helmet when you try to look left or right! A helmet that is too small will move with your head -- if you can get it on in the first place. But, if you're anything like me, a tight helmet will quickly give you a headache, which doesn't make it any easier to see straight! As always, your protective gear should be appropriate for the activity, should be clean and in good condition, should fit well and be worn properly. Regardless of the type of vehicle, the operator needs to be able to see where they're going and have good visibility to the sides and even rear of the vehicle. Unlike vehicles licensed for on-road use, most OHVs, especially dirt bikes and ATVs, lack rear view mirrors. I found out early in my dirt biking that rear view mirrors were of great value, especially when leading my kids on a ride. You can buy clamp on mirrors at motorcycle shops but my favorites were old fashioned bicycle mirrors. I cut the metal arm down from about 10" to 2" so the " round mirror was just above my hand grips and didn't pose a problem when going through vegetation. These days most bicycle mirrors are mounted on a flexible plastic shaft that vibrates too much to be useful but you can still find solid shaft vintage bicycle mirrors on ebay.
Being seen. You would think being seen isn't problem for big RVs. Don't count on it! I have been in foggy situations where you could get within about 10' of an unlighted motorhome before it became visible through the mist -- and that might be too close to stop! The U.S. Department of Transportation has spent million of dollars studying the visibility of over-the-road trucks, resulting in recommendations for clearance lights and reflective markers. Proper lighting, including headlights, tail lights and marker lights is essential for seeing and being seen on the highway. Since it isn't practical to leave the clearance lights on for extended periods of time when you are camping, having good reflectors can make your vehicle more visible to approaching vehicles. The solution I like best is to add a strip of 3M reflective tape along the entire side of my RV. Done right, it will blend with the original decor and yet will make your RV show up brightly in approaching headlights. For that I used a white tape about the same size an existing stripe on my RV. The red and white striped reflective tape used on semi-trailers has been proven to be highly visible and is a good addition to OHV trailers. I put it on the rear bumper and about a 1' strip near the front and rear on each side of my motorcycle trailer. Studies sponsored by the US DOT found it to be THE BEST at making semi-trailers and over-the-road trucks visible at night. It may not be very pretty, but it could prevent your RV or trailer from being smashed by a roving Jeep or ATV at night. Here's where visibility may be of concern to tent campers. You want to make sure your tent isn't setup where it will be in the way of any errant vehicles. During OHV outings, I've seen ignorant or thoughtless campers set up their tents on trails and even on dirt roads, directly in the path of other riders or vehicles. Sure, it was a nice flat spot with no vegetation, but definitely not a good idea, unless you want to get run over! Make sure you pick a spot that is not in or close to any right of way. At night you might add light sticks or reflectors to make your tent more visible so vehicles and even folks on foot so they don't trample your cloth domicile. Reflective tape is an easy way to highlight your tent. A tent well lighted from the inside usually shows up pretty well at night. Making your tent visible is a second-level precaution. Your first defense should be to set up your tent where it will be out of the way of any roads or trails. You will see pennants flying on staffs on the back of many ATVs, dune buggies, and side-by-sides. You can even buy battery powered strobe lights to put on the top of the staffs. These pennants and lights allow approaching riders to detect your presence and movement (speed and direction) when you and your vehicle may be partially or completely hidden behind a rise, rocks, other vehicles, or vegetation. Pennants are typically not practical nor normally used on dirt bikes. Your best bet of being seen on your dirt bike is to wear bright, even reflective, clothing and to make sure your lights (if you have them) are working. Even during daylight hours, lights make your vehicle more visible. Be careful and watch where YOU are going so you don't needlessly put yourself and your vehicle in the path of another rider. This is especially important when riding criss-crossing desert or forest trails. On desert trails stand up when approaching intersecting trails to make it easier to see and be seen. When riding forest trails, look ahead for intersecting trails and slow down until you can verify there is no traffic on the intersecting route. Also, for all OHV activities, be aware of your environment and avoid putting yourself and your vehicle in obscure places. Lying in wait to surprise your friends could easily backfire if another rider slams into you in your hiding place! And your surprise might cause your friends to lose control and crash, perhaps even into you!
Non-motorized activities. For safety you will want to use good practices to see and be seen in non-motorized activities, such as hiking and hunting. Some hunting activities may require you to blend into the environment, but to avoid being shot by some other hunter, it is a good idea to make yourself very visible. Bright orange clothing is frequently the choice of hunters, but if you are hunting in an area where bright orange fall foliage is common, you may need to choose another color. Unless you are hiking during hunting season (something I highly discourage!), being seen is probably more of a factor if you become lost and rescuers need to find you. Once again, bright colored clothing is helpful although you will want to avoid flowered prints that might attract unwanted insects. Carry a bright colored neckerchief or flag you can display as an emergency signal if necessary. An orange trash bag is a useful tool for many survival activities, including signalling as well as shelter. It can be folded into a small form, weighs little and isn't very expensive. Making yourself visible around camp at night will avoid accidents. Carry a flashlight so you can both see where you're going and be seen by other folks. Wear a jacket or vest with reflective stripes if you have one when moving about camp in the dark. There are clamp on reflective stripes if your jacket doesn't have any reflectivity. You can probably find them at bicycle shops. I think I came across mine at Dollar Tree! You may need a certain amount of privacy for trips to the bushes, but make sure you avoid trails and roads where vehicle traffic might put you in danger.
See and be seen!
Sunday, March 27, 2011
Tent Camping Equipment: New vs Used
It would be nice if we could all start out with brand new equipment, but that isn't something most of us can afford and even if it were it might not be cost effective. After all, people who have money didn't get it by squandering it. You may be able to make judicious use of year end clearances and liquidations to pick up some good deals on new items, but most folks will find it more economical to settle for some good used camping equipment. If it is used, but not abused, it should serve you well for many years at a fraction of the price of new stuff. Check your local classified ads, supermarket bulletin boards, web sites (like ebay and craigslist), thrift stores, and garage sales. Many times people accumulate extra equipment over the years and will dispose of their excess at cents on the dollar. A lot of used stuff is practically, and sometimes literally, brand new. Since camping is usually a part time leisure activity for most people, their camping equipment gets light use. People often purchase or receive as gifts items they never get around to using or only use once or twice. And keep in mind it is only new until you use it the first time anyway. I am a bit of a bargain hunter and seldom pay retail for any camping equipment, preferring to take advantage of sales or buy pre-owned gear.
Used tents. Tents are one of the largest expenses for tent camping. Here is where you can probably save the most by buying used equipment. And, since tents are not intimate items, there is relatively little danger of serious or offensive contamination unless they are really badly soiled and/or have a foul odor. Be sure to examine all the poles to make sure they are the right ones for the tent and are complete and in good condition. Count and inspect the stakes. You will need to replace bent, broken, or missing stakes. Check all the stake loops. Torn loops can sometimes be repaired, but make sure you know what you're buying and that you have the skills and tools to make any necessary repairs. For cabin tents, check the grommets where the tent poles connect to the fabric. If these are missing or damaged you may have to reinforce those spots before you can install new grommets. Check the sleeves where the poles go on dome tents to make sure they aren't ripped or the seams coming apart. Check the floor to make sure it isn't ripped or punctured or the seams along the walls coming apart. Check the zippers and screens on all doors and windows. You might be able to patch small tears in screens but zippers are difficult to replace. Sticky zippers might be fixed using a product like EZ-Snap lubricant. However, if the zippers are damaged, keep looking. Don't forget to check the rain fly if it has -- or should have -- one. Make sure you have some idea of the new price of similar tents so you don't get ripped off. Anything at or below 50% of new retail is probably an acceptable price. I might be willing to pay slightly more if the tent is in nearly new condition and meets my requirements. Some brands will command higher resale prices because of the reputation and quality of the products, so do some price comparisons online or via the classified ads. Unless you urgently need a tent right now, take time to look around to obtain the best price and value. Watch the flyers from sporting goods stores. They often have special promotions that deliver exceptional value on new tents and camping packages, especially at the beginning and end of the camping season. Carefully check what is included in any packages to make sure you aren't paying for a lot of stuff you don't need or want and that the package price really is less than the sum of the cost of the individual items from other sources. I got used 14' cabin tent for under $40 and a new 7' umbrella tent for $10 at a year end sidewalk sale. I had to patch a hole in the roof of the cabin tent where the previous owner had installed a chimney for a tent stove and had to fabricate the crossover connection that held the 4 poles together for the umbrella tent, but both were things I could easily handle and I got many years of use out of both tents.
Used sleeping bags. Since sleeping bags are rather intimate items, some people are reluctant to purchase used ones which can hold down prices. Keep in mind they can be dry cleaned, which will sanitize them, and usually will come out like new, if they haven't been abused. Consider the kind of weather you will be using them in. 10 degree bags won't keep you warm enough in sub-zero weather, but will be too warm for typical summer evenings in most camping areas. Consider the style. Mummy bags are good for keeping individuals warm but they limit movement and some people get claustrophobic in them. Rectangular bags can usually be opened and zipped together to form double sleeping bags for couples, good for added warmth as well as comfort and intimacy.
Used camp stoves. Used camp stoves can save you a bundle. The old fashioned white gas (Coleman fuel) stoves are plentiful and reliable. It is typical to find the pump may not work because the leather washer in it has dried out. Many times all that is needed is a few drops of oil to get it working again. If that doesn't work, the pumps can be easily and inexpensively rebuilt. A second major component is the generator. This is a tube-like structure that converts liquid fuel to vapor for the burners. If the generator is defective, it must be replaced. Again, this is a fairly easy and inexpensive DIY project (under $20). If the fuel tank is leaking, keep looking. Damaged fuel tanks are dangerous and cannot be easily repaired. If the burners are clogged they can usually be cleaned with a wire brush. Used propane powered stoves don't have pumps or built in fuel tanks; they use replaceable pressurized propane canisters. Be sure to keep an eye out for sales on propane canisters to keep your operating costs down. Another option is to get an adapter so you can use a bulk propane tank like the one for your home BBQ. The fuel is a lot less expensive than buying individual 1 # cylinders. The last time I filled up my motorhome I paid $2.79/gallon -- compared to about $2.88 for two 1-quart portable canisters. Thrift stores and garage sales are good places to look for used camp stoves. I've seen 3-burner Coleman stoves for $8.00. Even it it needs some work, it would probably be well worth that! Even if you already have a good camp stove, you might want to pick up another good used one as a backup or in case you host large group or need it in a disaster scenario.
Used lanterns. These days there are many options for camp lanterns. The old Coleman gas lantern is a time-proven staple but there are many battery-powered alternatives available today, including LED lights that minimize battery drain and even lanterns with built in solar chargers. You may luck out and find battery lanterns at garage sales etc, but the venerable Coleman lantern is a more likely find. Just like camp stoves, steer clear of lanterns with damaged fuel tanks. Faulty pumps and generators can be easily and inexpensively replaced. You may even be able to buy a replacement for a missing or cracked glass globe. These are not universal or one size fits all, so do some research into availability before buying a broken lantern. Now that LED lanterns have been around awhile you'll start seeing them on the used market too. But even new ones aren't terribly expensive. I've seen some very nice ones around $10. LEDs use SO much less power than the old incandescent bulbs! I left an LED lantern with 17 LEDs on overnight in my barn and it was still bright the next morning and for months afterwards! A regular incandescent lantern would have killed battery about half way through the night.
Used cookware. Used camp cook ware and mess kits can be a good bargain. Even if they are blackened or dirty, they can usually be cleaned and sterilized and safe to use. Small, individual mess kits are not terribly expensive, even when they are brand new, so be aware of the price and value before you buy up a bunch of used stuff for your kids. You might be able to get new kits for not much more. In choosing any cook ware, seek sets that are designed for camping. These will usually stack together for storage and will have multi-use components, such as a lid that also doubles as a frying pan. Camp cook sets often include plastic plates, cups, and flatware as well as pots and pans. These types of kits save space and weight without sacrificing functionality. Cast iron cook ware is heavy to tote around but is practically foolproof and indestructible. It can be used directly in a campfire and even the worse burned on, sticky mess can usually be burned off and scoured and the pan re-seasoned. New or heavily cleaned cast iron cookware does need to be seasoned before using. Seasoning consists of coating the cooking surface with cooking oil and heating it until the oil burns away, leaving a coating on the surface. This applies to cast iron grills and griddles as well as frying pans and dutch ovens. Anytime a piece of cast iron cookware as been scoured or washed with detergent, it should be re-seasoned. To avoid re-seasoning, remove all food residue from the item, then rub it with crumpled newspaper or paper towels until all traces of grease and residue have been removed. Ordinary kitchen pots and pans can be used for camping. Thrift stores are a good place to look. Light weight aluminum pots and pans may melt if used directly in a campfire but they should be fine on a camp stove. Seek cast iron if you plan to cook directly on the fire. It is heavier to lug around but it will last a very long time and stand up to plenty of hard use. You won't want it for back packing or hiking in any distance to your camp site, but it will be nice to have for RVing and car camping.
Used ice chests. There is little that can go wrong with ice chests. Make sure they don't have any holes or cracks in either the liner or the outer skin. Make sure the hinges and latches work. And make sure they don't smell bad! Some plastic liners absorb odors that can be very difficult to remove. You sure don't want your food smelling like dirty socks or like something that died! There have been many improvements in insulation and durability over the years. New ice chests are not too expensive, so you might want to check out your local Walmart before grabbing up older "bargains". For short term use, light weight styrofoam chests are really inexpensive, but they aren't very durable. Plastic ice chests are the next least expensive permanent solutions. Painted steel models used to be common but you don't usually see a lot of new ones these days. I picked up a couple of nice older Coleman steel ice chests on ebay. New stainless steel models are durable and often keep food colder than plastic models but they're somewhat expensive -- plastic chests can be found for $20-$50. Expect to pay around $100 for stainless steel. Size matters! Consider the space you have for transporting your equipment. Huge ice chests can hold lots of food and drinks but they may take up your entire cargo area and are very heavy to carry when fully loaded. Sometimes having a number of smaller chests will be more convenient (and less expensive) and the ice will last longer. Separate chests for drinks and perishable foods is a good idea. You will be getting into the drink chest more frequently and if it should run out of ice, the drinks won't spoil although they won't be as appealing if they are warm. Smaller chests are also easier to carry. Keeping perishable foods separate avoids exposing them to frequent opening of the chest and will protect them longer. Sometimes having a few inexpensive styrofoam chests is a good solution for separating and transporting items. They are also good for keeping your frozen or cold foods cool on the way back from the grocery store. Get the right size chest for you needs. You don't need a huge, $150 marine cooler to keep a six pack cold for an afternoon picnic and it probably wouldn't even do the job without filling it with many bags of ice whereas a small cooler and 1 bag of ice would easily and conveniently handle a six pack.
Camp chairs are not terribly expensive when they are new and to some extent are designed to be disposable. That being said, you might still pick up some good used camp chairs. Be sure to inspect them for bent or broken frames or damaged fabric or netting. Like so many other pieces of camping equipment, people tend to accumulate more than they need and you may snag a great deal on some good used ones. At one time folding aluminum chairs with woven fiberglass straps were the norm. Today the collapsible "bag" or "quad" chairs seem to dominate the market.
Used camping tools. Things like axes, hatchets, mallets, and folding shovels are handy to have when camping and used items in good condition will be just as serviceable as new ones. You might have to sharpen an axe or clean and paint a shovel, but it will probably save you quite a bit over buying new. Other candidates in the tools category might include knives and mallets. Camp chairs and cots are pretty durable and used ones could save you quite a bit of cash you could use on something else. Folding tables and "camp kitchens" are also nice additions if you come across them.
Save away!
Used tents. Tents are one of the largest expenses for tent camping. Here is where you can probably save the most by buying used equipment. And, since tents are not intimate items, there is relatively little danger of serious or offensive contamination unless they are really badly soiled and/or have a foul odor. Be sure to examine all the poles to make sure they are the right ones for the tent and are complete and in good condition. Count and inspect the stakes. You will need to replace bent, broken, or missing stakes. Check all the stake loops. Torn loops can sometimes be repaired, but make sure you know what you're buying and that you have the skills and tools to make any necessary repairs. For cabin tents, check the grommets where the tent poles connect to the fabric. If these are missing or damaged you may have to reinforce those spots before you can install new grommets. Check the sleeves where the poles go on dome tents to make sure they aren't ripped or the seams coming apart. Check the floor to make sure it isn't ripped or punctured or the seams along the walls coming apart. Check the zippers and screens on all doors and windows. You might be able to patch small tears in screens but zippers are difficult to replace. Sticky zippers might be fixed using a product like EZ-Snap lubricant. However, if the zippers are damaged, keep looking. Don't forget to check the rain fly if it has -- or should have -- one. Make sure you have some idea of the new price of similar tents so you don't get ripped off. Anything at or below 50% of new retail is probably an acceptable price. I might be willing to pay slightly more if the tent is in nearly new condition and meets my requirements. Some brands will command higher resale prices because of the reputation and quality of the products, so do some price comparisons online or via the classified ads. Unless you urgently need a tent right now, take time to look around to obtain the best price and value. Watch the flyers from sporting goods stores. They often have special promotions that deliver exceptional value on new tents and camping packages, especially at the beginning and end of the camping season. Carefully check what is included in any packages to make sure you aren't paying for a lot of stuff you don't need or want and that the package price really is less than the sum of the cost of the individual items from other sources. I got used 14' cabin tent for under $40 and a new 7' umbrella tent for $10 at a year end sidewalk sale. I had to patch a hole in the roof of the cabin tent where the previous owner had installed a chimney for a tent stove and had to fabricate the crossover connection that held the 4 poles together for the umbrella tent, but both were things I could easily handle and I got many years of use out of both tents.
Used sleeping bags. Since sleeping bags are rather intimate items, some people are reluctant to purchase used ones which can hold down prices. Keep in mind they can be dry cleaned, which will sanitize them, and usually will come out like new, if they haven't been abused. Consider the kind of weather you will be using them in. 10 degree bags won't keep you warm enough in sub-zero weather, but will be too warm for typical summer evenings in most camping areas. Consider the style. Mummy bags are good for keeping individuals warm but they limit movement and some people get claustrophobic in them. Rectangular bags can usually be opened and zipped together to form double sleeping bags for couples, good for added warmth as well as comfort and intimacy.
Used camp stoves. Used camp stoves can save you a bundle. The old fashioned white gas (Coleman fuel) stoves are plentiful and reliable. It is typical to find the pump may not work because the leather washer in it has dried out. Many times all that is needed is a few drops of oil to get it working again. If that doesn't work, the pumps can be easily and inexpensively rebuilt. A second major component is the generator. This is a tube-like structure that converts liquid fuel to vapor for the burners. If the generator is defective, it must be replaced. Again, this is a fairly easy and inexpensive DIY project (under $20). If the fuel tank is leaking, keep looking. Damaged fuel tanks are dangerous and cannot be easily repaired. If the burners are clogged they can usually be cleaned with a wire brush. Used propane powered stoves don't have pumps or built in fuel tanks; they use replaceable pressurized propane canisters. Be sure to keep an eye out for sales on propane canisters to keep your operating costs down. Another option is to get an adapter so you can use a bulk propane tank like the one for your home BBQ. The fuel is a lot less expensive than buying individual 1 # cylinders. The last time I filled up my motorhome I paid $2.79/gallon -- compared to about $2.88 for two 1-quart portable canisters. Thrift stores and garage sales are good places to look for used camp stoves. I've seen 3-burner Coleman stoves for $8.00. Even it it needs some work, it would probably be well worth that! Even if you already have a good camp stove, you might want to pick up another good used one as a backup or in case you host large group or need it in a disaster scenario.
Used lanterns. These days there are many options for camp lanterns. The old Coleman gas lantern is a time-proven staple but there are many battery-powered alternatives available today, including LED lights that minimize battery drain and even lanterns with built in solar chargers. You may luck out and find battery lanterns at garage sales etc, but the venerable Coleman lantern is a more likely find. Just like camp stoves, steer clear of lanterns with damaged fuel tanks. Faulty pumps and generators can be easily and inexpensively replaced. You may even be able to buy a replacement for a missing or cracked glass globe. These are not universal or one size fits all, so do some research into availability before buying a broken lantern. Now that LED lanterns have been around awhile you'll start seeing them on the used market too. But even new ones aren't terribly expensive. I've seen some very nice ones around $10. LEDs use SO much less power than the old incandescent bulbs! I left an LED lantern with 17 LEDs on overnight in my barn and it was still bright the next morning and for months afterwards! A regular incandescent lantern would have killed battery about half way through the night.
Used cookware. Used camp cook ware and mess kits can be a good bargain. Even if they are blackened or dirty, they can usually be cleaned and sterilized and safe to use. Small, individual mess kits are not terribly expensive, even when they are brand new, so be aware of the price and value before you buy up a bunch of used stuff for your kids. You might be able to get new kits for not much more. In choosing any cook ware, seek sets that are designed for camping. These will usually stack together for storage and will have multi-use components, such as a lid that also doubles as a frying pan. Camp cook sets often include plastic plates, cups, and flatware as well as pots and pans. These types of kits save space and weight without sacrificing functionality. Cast iron cook ware is heavy to tote around but is practically foolproof and indestructible. It can be used directly in a campfire and even the worse burned on, sticky mess can usually be burned off and scoured and the pan re-seasoned. New or heavily cleaned cast iron cookware does need to be seasoned before using. Seasoning consists of coating the cooking surface with cooking oil and heating it until the oil burns away, leaving a coating on the surface. This applies to cast iron grills and griddles as well as frying pans and dutch ovens. Anytime a piece of cast iron cookware as been scoured or washed with detergent, it should be re-seasoned. To avoid re-seasoning, remove all food residue from the item, then rub it with crumpled newspaper or paper towels until all traces of grease and residue have been removed. Ordinary kitchen pots and pans can be used for camping. Thrift stores are a good place to look. Light weight aluminum pots and pans may melt if used directly in a campfire but they should be fine on a camp stove. Seek cast iron if you plan to cook directly on the fire. It is heavier to lug around but it will last a very long time and stand up to plenty of hard use. You won't want it for back packing or hiking in any distance to your camp site, but it will be nice to have for RVing and car camping.
Used ice chests. There is little that can go wrong with ice chests. Make sure they don't have any holes or cracks in either the liner or the outer skin. Make sure the hinges and latches work. And make sure they don't smell bad! Some plastic liners absorb odors that can be very difficult to remove. You sure don't want your food smelling like dirty socks or like something that died! There have been many improvements in insulation and durability over the years. New ice chests are not too expensive, so you might want to check out your local Walmart before grabbing up older "bargains". For short term use, light weight styrofoam chests are really inexpensive, but they aren't very durable. Plastic ice chests are the next least expensive permanent solutions. Painted steel models used to be common but you don't usually see a lot of new ones these days. I picked up a couple of nice older Coleman steel ice chests on ebay. New stainless steel models are durable and often keep food colder than plastic models but they're somewhat expensive -- plastic chests can be found for $20-$50. Expect to pay around $100 for stainless steel. Size matters! Consider the space you have for transporting your equipment. Huge ice chests can hold lots of food and drinks but they may take up your entire cargo area and are very heavy to carry when fully loaded. Sometimes having a number of smaller chests will be more convenient (and less expensive) and the ice will last longer. Separate chests for drinks and perishable foods is a good idea. You will be getting into the drink chest more frequently and if it should run out of ice, the drinks won't spoil although they won't be as appealing if they are warm. Smaller chests are also easier to carry. Keeping perishable foods separate avoids exposing them to frequent opening of the chest and will protect them longer. Sometimes having a few inexpensive styrofoam chests is a good solution for separating and transporting items. They are also good for keeping your frozen or cold foods cool on the way back from the grocery store. Get the right size chest for you needs. You don't need a huge, $150 marine cooler to keep a six pack cold for an afternoon picnic and it probably wouldn't even do the job without filling it with many bags of ice whereas a small cooler and 1 bag of ice would easily and conveniently handle a six pack.
Camp chairs are not terribly expensive when they are new and to some extent are designed to be disposable. That being said, you might still pick up some good used camp chairs. Be sure to inspect them for bent or broken frames or damaged fabric or netting. Like so many other pieces of camping equipment, people tend to accumulate more than they need and you may snag a great deal on some good used ones. At one time folding aluminum chairs with woven fiberglass straps were the norm. Today the collapsible "bag" or "quad" chairs seem to dominate the market.
Used camping tools. Things like axes, hatchets, mallets, and folding shovels are handy to have when camping and used items in good condition will be just as serviceable as new ones. You might have to sharpen an axe or clean and paint a shovel, but it will probably save you quite a bit over buying new. Other candidates in the tools category might include knives and mallets. Camp chairs and cots are pretty durable and used ones could save you quite a bit of cash you could use on something else. Folding tables and "camp kitchens" are also nice additions if you come across them.
Save away!
RVs: New versus Used
OK. You've decided you want to buy an RV. Should you buy a new one or a used one? Obviously your decision will depend on several factors, the most prominent of which is probably price versus your budget. However, even if you can afford a new RV, there are some things to consider before writing that check. I have purchased both new and used RVs. I only bought one brand new. The rest of the time I found it more cost effective to buy a pre-owned unit. I will review the pros and cons of both options below.
Buying new. Buying a new RV is a thrilling experience for anyone. Having a coach no one else has lived in is a special feeling. Buying new may also give you the chance to order the unit configured to your personal specifications. All very nice advantages. When buying new you don't have to worry about the abuse or lack of maintenance by some previous owner. You know exactly what you're getting, and you get nice warranties on the unit and its appliances. About the only negative I've seen to buying new, other than price and depreciation, is what they call "infant mortality", which consists of a series of problems that seem to come with every new RV. I bought a brand new RV once and it spent about 1/4 of its first year back at the dealer or at the manufacturer getting things fixed that should have been checked before it ever left the lot or the factory. You can count on a new RV losing 15-20% of the purchase price the minute you sign the papers and make it a "previously owned" unit and depreciation is high the first year or two. You might want to check the resale value of similar units for the last few years to get an idea of how fast the resale value of your new pride and joy will slide. As to the warranty issues, why is the "infant mortality" rate so high? Consider this: an RV consists of all the components of a motor vehicle and all the features of a house. When you buy a new house you usually go through a period where you prepare of list of items for the contractor to fix. There are often several warranty issues with a new vehicle too. So it shouldn't come as any surprise that it combines the problems of both, making it seem like a lot. Still, there is a lot of pride of ownership that comes with buying a brand new RV. Be sure to understand and follow the maintenance required by any warranties and make sure you file any claims before the warranty expires and do so according to the warranty terms.
Buying used. Buying a used RV can often get you an extraordinary bargain. Remember, the minute the papers are signed, a new RV becomes a used RV, even if it hasn't even been driven yet. Many if not most RVs get little use, especially compared to the mileage we put on our daily drivers. A good, low-mileage, well-maintained RV can sometimes be even better than buying new. First off, you will pay less and someone else has already taken that first big chunk of depreciation. Used RVs were often excellent buys even before today's failed economy. A few years ago friend of mine picked up a late-model, low-mileage motorhome that booked for over $120,000 for about $69,000! It had been owned by an older couple and one of them got unexpected serious health issues and they weren't able to use their motorhome. They lived some distance from any dealers who might buy it or take it on consignment and were willing to let it go for substantially less than book value. Today's bargains are even more impressive. Secondly, the original owner has already had to deal with the "infant mortality" period and most warranty issues have already been resolved. Previous owners have also often added features that will add to the convenience and usability of used units. Such additions usually don't add a lot to the "blue book" value, so you get them practically free! Used units may also already have luxury options you may not have found cost effective in a new unit. When buying a used RV, do a thorough inspection and have it checked by a reputable RV technician. Unless you know the seller personally, you don't know how well the previous owner took care of the unit. Sometimes they provide documentation for routine maintenance and repairs, which usually demonstrates careful treatment but more typically there won't be any maintenance records. Here are some basic things to check out before you incur the cost of having an RV technician do an inspection. Look at the overall condition of the unit. Is it clean and without body damage? Is the interior clean and does it smell pleasant? Foul, musty odors often indicate there are or have been leaks that may have created structural problems was well as bad odors. Extra strong air fresheners are sometimes an attempt to disguise bad odors, so if you encounter a rig whose pine or vanilla or gardenia air freshener all but makes your eyes water, be wary. Soft spots in the floor, ceiling, or around windows and doors are also strong indicators of water damage that can be expensive to repair. Take the unit for a good test drive that includes various kinds of road conditions (hills, windy roads, rough roads) so you can check handling, listen for unusual noises, and watch for loose components. It should start easily, drive, shift, and brake smoothly and there shouldn't be any unusual vibrations or noises. Check the condition of dump valves. I've often seen cracked, broken, or sticking valves. They aren't expensive if you replace them yourself, but that can be a nuisance if you're anxious to hit the road right away. Old dump valves will probably have rusty bolts that can be very difficult to remove. Check the tires. If the sidewalls are cracked the tires are old. If the tread is worn down or the sidewalls are cracked or the tires are more than 10 years old, the tires will have to be replaced. Uneven tire wear indicates a suspension problem that could be costly to repair and an overall lack of owner attention. Because RVs don't log a lot of miles, tires that look good may still be in need of replacement if they are more than 7 - 10 years old. The age can be determined by the DOT serial number on the tire. If you are looking at a motorhome or tow vehicle, check the fluids: oil, transmission fluid, and coolant. If the oil or transmission fluid feels gritty, looks black or brown, or it smells burned, look for another vehicle -- now! Black engine oil is not necessarily problematic. The detergents in modern oils will dissolve deposits and turn new oil black in just a few minutes of operation. However, the oil should not smell burned or feel gritty. Transmission fluid, on the other hand, should be a deep red. Brown or black fluid indicates over-heating or contamination, which can be fatal for automatic transmissions. Like engine oil, transmission fluid should not smell burned or feel gritty. Oil levels should be normal. Low oil may indicate a leak or a mechanical problem such as worn piston rings or faulty valve seals. Overfilling can cause the oil to foam, reducing its lubricating properties and causing engine damage. Check the coolant. Low coolant may indicate a leak somewhere -- or lack of routine maintenance. Rusty or dirty coolant indicates lack of maintenance and potential cooling system problems. Oil in the coolant may be due to cracks in the engine block that allow oil into the cooling system. We wary if you can smell coolant in the engine or driver compartment. Don't take the dealer or seller's word for recent service. I bought a motorhome from an allegedly reputable dealer who assured me it has just been fully serviced, with fresh oil etc. I believed him. My bad! After driving only a couple of hundred miles I discovered it was 3 quarts low on oil at my first fuel stop. I should have checked the oil myself before I drove it off the lot. I subsequently had to replace the engine, (very expensive!) a couple of weeks later due to damage from lack of adequate lubrication. There is no telling how long it had been low on oil before I bought it. There are plenty of units available in good condition out there to choose from, so unless you are willing to accept and have the expertise and resources to assess and correct serious problems and the price is sufficiently reduced to make repairs cost effective, keep looking. Because of today's economy, there are some incredible bargains out there. For example (even though this is not an RV, it indicates the kind of potential that exists in today's failed economy), I recently talked to someone who purchased a 36' cabin cruiser with trailer for only $500 last year. It needed a little engine work, but he was knowledgeable and was able to effect repairs for about $75. That's a bargain in anyone's book. I've seen $80,000 motorhomes offered for under $40,000. Take your time and look around until you find the right deal on the unit that is right for you and you'll have a coach you can thoroughly enjoy for many years. I bought an 11 1/2' self contained camper for just $100! It was an extraordinary find, in excellent condition even though it was about 40 years old!
The looking process. The very process of looking for the right motorhome can be a fun experience. Take advantage of local RV shows to examine new units. Some shows also feature a few selected previously owned units. Check out the classified ads and local RV lots to examine used units. Shopping around will let you explore options you might find appealing and get a feel for their relative value. The more you look the better idea you will have of what is going to work for you and the better you will become at detecting and avoiding potential problems and identifying the features you want. Just steer clear of high-pressure salesman! If you start hearing words like "this price is only good today" or "I've got another buyer on the line" or experience any other arm-twisting, high pressure tactics by over-zealous RV salespersons, RUN! Most legitimate dealers will let you explore the units on their lots and, of course, are anxious to answer questions and try to talk you into buying. Their products and service should be enough to convince you to buy without high-pressure scare tactics. Any salesman or dealer who has to resort to high pressure sales techniques is probably hiding something and will not be pleasant to deal with after the sale. Remember: YOU are in the driver's seat, figuratively and literally. Don't be bullied into buying something you don't really want or you aren't ready for.
Happy hunting!
Buying new. Buying a new RV is a thrilling experience for anyone. Having a coach no one else has lived in is a special feeling. Buying new may also give you the chance to order the unit configured to your personal specifications. All very nice advantages. When buying new you don't have to worry about the abuse or lack of maintenance by some previous owner. You know exactly what you're getting, and you get nice warranties on the unit and its appliances. About the only negative I've seen to buying new, other than price and depreciation, is what they call "infant mortality", which consists of a series of problems that seem to come with every new RV. I bought a brand new RV once and it spent about 1/4 of its first year back at the dealer or at the manufacturer getting things fixed that should have been checked before it ever left the lot or the factory. You can count on a new RV losing 15-20% of the purchase price the minute you sign the papers and make it a "previously owned" unit and depreciation is high the first year or two. You might want to check the resale value of similar units for the last few years to get an idea of how fast the resale value of your new pride and joy will slide. As to the warranty issues, why is the "infant mortality" rate so high? Consider this: an RV consists of all the components of a motor vehicle and all the features of a house. When you buy a new house you usually go through a period where you prepare of list of items for the contractor to fix. There are often several warranty issues with a new vehicle too. So it shouldn't come as any surprise that it combines the problems of both, making it seem like a lot. Still, there is a lot of pride of ownership that comes with buying a brand new RV. Be sure to understand and follow the maintenance required by any warranties and make sure you file any claims before the warranty expires and do so according to the warranty terms.
Buying used. Buying a used RV can often get you an extraordinary bargain. Remember, the minute the papers are signed, a new RV becomes a used RV, even if it hasn't even been driven yet. Many if not most RVs get little use, especially compared to the mileage we put on our daily drivers. A good, low-mileage, well-maintained RV can sometimes be even better than buying new. First off, you will pay less and someone else has already taken that first big chunk of depreciation. Used RVs were often excellent buys even before today's failed economy. A few years ago friend of mine picked up a late-model, low-mileage motorhome that booked for over $120,000 for about $69,000! It had been owned by an older couple and one of them got unexpected serious health issues and they weren't able to use their motorhome. They lived some distance from any dealers who might buy it or take it on consignment and were willing to let it go for substantially less than book value. Today's bargains are even more impressive. Secondly, the original owner has already had to deal with the "infant mortality" period and most warranty issues have already been resolved. Previous owners have also often added features that will add to the convenience and usability of used units. Such additions usually don't add a lot to the "blue book" value, so you get them practically free! Used units may also already have luxury options you may not have found cost effective in a new unit. When buying a used RV, do a thorough inspection and have it checked by a reputable RV technician. Unless you know the seller personally, you don't know how well the previous owner took care of the unit. Sometimes they provide documentation for routine maintenance and repairs, which usually demonstrates careful treatment but more typically there won't be any maintenance records. Here are some basic things to check out before you incur the cost of having an RV technician do an inspection. Look at the overall condition of the unit. Is it clean and without body damage? Is the interior clean and does it smell pleasant? Foul, musty odors often indicate there are or have been leaks that may have created structural problems was well as bad odors. Extra strong air fresheners are sometimes an attempt to disguise bad odors, so if you encounter a rig whose pine or vanilla or gardenia air freshener all but makes your eyes water, be wary. Soft spots in the floor, ceiling, or around windows and doors are also strong indicators of water damage that can be expensive to repair. Take the unit for a good test drive that includes various kinds of road conditions (hills, windy roads, rough roads) so you can check handling, listen for unusual noises, and watch for loose components. It should start easily, drive, shift, and brake smoothly and there shouldn't be any unusual vibrations or noises. Check the condition of dump valves. I've often seen cracked, broken, or sticking valves. They aren't expensive if you replace them yourself, but that can be a nuisance if you're anxious to hit the road right away. Old dump valves will probably have rusty bolts that can be very difficult to remove. Check the tires. If the sidewalls are cracked the tires are old. If the tread is worn down or the sidewalls are cracked or the tires are more than 10 years old, the tires will have to be replaced. Uneven tire wear indicates a suspension problem that could be costly to repair and an overall lack of owner attention. Because RVs don't log a lot of miles, tires that look good may still be in need of replacement if they are more than 7 - 10 years old. The age can be determined by the DOT serial number on the tire. If you are looking at a motorhome or tow vehicle, check the fluids: oil, transmission fluid, and coolant. If the oil or transmission fluid feels gritty, looks black or brown, or it smells burned, look for another vehicle -- now! Black engine oil is not necessarily problematic. The detergents in modern oils will dissolve deposits and turn new oil black in just a few minutes of operation. However, the oil should not smell burned or feel gritty. Transmission fluid, on the other hand, should be a deep red. Brown or black fluid indicates over-heating or contamination, which can be fatal for automatic transmissions. Like engine oil, transmission fluid should not smell burned or feel gritty. Oil levels should be normal. Low oil may indicate a leak or a mechanical problem such as worn piston rings or faulty valve seals. Overfilling can cause the oil to foam, reducing its lubricating properties and causing engine damage. Check the coolant. Low coolant may indicate a leak somewhere -- or lack of routine maintenance. Rusty or dirty coolant indicates lack of maintenance and potential cooling system problems. Oil in the coolant may be due to cracks in the engine block that allow oil into the cooling system. We wary if you can smell coolant in the engine or driver compartment. Don't take the dealer or seller's word for recent service. I bought a motorhome from an allegedly reputable dealer who assured me it has just been fully serviced, with fresh oil etc. I believed him. My bad! After driving only a couple of hundred miles I discovered it was 3 quarts low on oil at my first fuel stop. I should have checked the oil myself before I drove it off the lot. I subsequently had to replace the engine, (very expensive!) a couple of weeks later due to damage from lack of adequate lubrication. There is no telling how long it had been low on oil before I bought it. There are plenty of units available in good condition out there to choose from, so unless you are willing to accept and have the expertise and resources to assess and correct serious problems and the price is sufficiently reduced to make repairs cost effective, keep looking. Because of today's economy, there are some incredible bargains out there. For example (even though this is not an RV, it indicates the kind of potential that exists in today's failed economy), I recently talked to someone who purchased a 36' cabin cruiser with trailer for only $500 last year. It needed a little engine work, but he was knowledgeable and was able to effect repairs for about $75. That's a bargain in anyone's book. I've seen $80,000 motorhomes offered for under $40,000. Take your time and look around until you find the right deal on the unit that is right for you and you'll have a coach you can thoroughly enjoy for many years. I bought an 11 1/2' self contained camper for just $100! It was an extraordinary find, in excellent condition even though it was about 40 years old!
The looking process. The very process of looking for the right motorhome can be a fun experience. Take advantage of local RV shows to examine new units. Some shows also feature a few selected previously owned units. Check out the classified ads and local RV lots to examine used units. Shopping around will let you explore options you might find appealing and get a feel for their relative value. The more you look the better idea you will have of what is going to work for you and the better you will become at detecting and avoiding potential problems and identifying the features you want. Just steer clear of high-pressure salesman! If you start hearing words like "this price is only good today" or "I've got another buyer on the line" or experience any other arm-twisting, high pressure tactics by over-zealous RV salespersons, RUN! Most legitimate dealers will let you explore the units on their lots and, of course, are anxious to answer questions and try to talk you into buying. Their products and service should be enough to convince you to buy without high-pressure scare tactics. Any salesman or dealer who has to resort to high pressure sales techniques is probably hiding something and will not be pleasant to deal with after the sale. Remember: YOU are in the driver's seat, figuratively and literally. Don't be bullied into buying something you don't really want or you aren't ready for.
Happy hunting!
Saturday, March 26, 2011
Staying Warm and Cozy
Staying warm usually isn't as much of a problem when camping as keeping cool is, since we tend to go camping mostly in fair weather. But a sudden summer storm may cause temperatures to drop and even normal night time temperatures in many areas can be quite cool. I've seen overnight temperatures in the desert in the 40's after 100+ temperatures in the afternoon. And, some people even go camping in winter! Its usually easier for us to add warm clothing or gather 'round a campfire than it is to find ways to keep cool. You can always put on another sweater or coat when it gets cold but there is only so much you can take off when it gets hot! Early spring or late fall outings can often bring us into cooler weather where we may have to make adaptations to our usual dress and behavior to stay comfortable.
Staying warm in an RV is usually just a matter of setting the thermostat or turning on the furnace. If you want to conserve battery power and propane at night you might shut off the furnace and then you'll need warm bedding. Blankets, a comforter, or warm sleeping bags are good ways to stay warm in bed. Some folks like to "over heat" their rigs a little before bedtime to keep it warmer longer when they retire, then turn the furnace off at night. Not sure that there is any real savings in propane or battery power by doing that. And, if you're like me, you may find it hard to get to sleep if it is too hot. My preference is to set the thermostat at a comfortable level and be comfortable all night. If I wanted to freeze at night I could sleep in a tent or outside under the stars. Keep windows and vents closed and limit opening doors to reduce heat loss. Window coverings will also help prevent loss of heat. Most RVs have only single pane glass, which is a pretty good conductor of heat, allowing valuable heat to escape. Curtains and drapes or shades will help, but using a sheet of bubble foam insulation in the window gives even more protection. You might even install "storm windows" on your RV using plastic kits designed for home use. Stretch them over the outside of the window frame and shrink to fit using a heat gun or hair dryer. You'll be surprised how much keeping the drapes closed and using foam inserts will contribute to retaining heat. During the day you can wear a sweater or sweatshirt to stay warm without over taxing your furnace or propane supply. Hard surface floors can be cold to walk on and may allow heat to escape. A runner or throw rug will help mitigate these problems. Of course just wearing slippers will keep your feet from getting cold, but they won't reduce heat transfer through the floor and help keep your rig warm like a rug will. If all or at least most of the floors are carpeted, you're already covered (pun intended).
If you're camping in an RV in freezing weather you'll have to keep critical parts of the RV water systems warm in addition to keeping the people inside comfortable. Exposed plumbing may freeze and break so it must be protected, either using antifreeze in the system or by keep it warm using heaters. There are specially designed heating pads to keep holding tanks warm. The better ones can operate on either 120-volt or 12-volt power sources. If you're connected to a faucet in a campground you'll also need a heated water hose. You can buy water hoses with built in heaters or wrap your regular potable water hose with heat tape. Placing a 100-watt bulb inside the relevant compartments of RVs with enclosed holding tanks and dump valves will usually be enough to prevent freezing, but exposed hosed, tanks, and valves will need special attention.
Staying warm in a tent usually means having the right sleeping bag or blankets for the temperature for sleeping. If your bag isn't warm enough you can supplement it with liners, covers, blankets or comforters. If you expect to be camping in cold weather, consider getting a 4-season tent. A double wall tent (i.e., a tent with a rain fly) or covering your tent with a tarp may provide some additional insulation and better heat retention. Staying warm in a tent during waking hours may require a tent heater and/or extra clothing. Tent heaters are usually some form of catalytic heater that gives off few if any toxic fumes, but they will all consume oxygen. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper ventilation to avoid suffocation! A Coleman lantern (white gas or propane) gives off quite a bit of heat and often is enough to warm a small tent. But these also consume oxygen so maintain adequate ventilation when using them and keep them away from flammable materials.. Body heat is sometimes enough to warm a tent in milder cool temperatures. You'd be surprised how much heat several human bodies will generate when confined in a small space like a tent. With 20 people in my living room during a cold Utah winter it got so warm we had to open the windows -- without any fire in the fire place or turning on any heat. Each person puts out about as much heat as a 100 watt incandescent bulb. Body heat will probably not be enough in really cold or freezing temperatures in even the warmest tent or best insulated RV.
Wood burning tent stoves are an option for some larger tents. They must be properly installed and vented. You normally need a heat resistant platform on which to set them and a fireproof way to vent the stove pipe through the roof. Using a gasoline or propane camp stove in a tent is usually a very bad idea! Even the cute little catalytic tent heaters will consume oxygen, so be sure provide adequate ventilation in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions to avoid suffocation. Lacking proper documentation, leave windows on opposite sides open about 1" to ensure adequate air flow.
Staying warm usually means staying dry. Heat loss through wet clothes is something like 25 times as fast as through dry clothes. If you've been caught in the rain or have melting snow on your clothes, change into dry clothes as soon as possible. You will be warmer wrapped in a dry blanket than wearing a damp heavy winter coat. If you become severely chilled (hypothermic) you may need to enlist the aid of a companion to help you get warm. Sharing a blanket or sleeping bag will help you warm up. Make sure neither of you is wearing any wet clothing. And, yes, skin-to-skin is best, if modesty doesn't get in the way. One very effective technique for warming a badly chilled person is fondly nicknamed "The Burritto". Get your victim out of any wet clothing and wrap them in multiple layers of warm dry blankets, coats, or sleeping bags. They'll usually be scrambling to get out of some of the layers within 15-20 minutes as they warm up. For severely chilled victims, wrap them up with a warm companion.
Staying warm outside requires dressing appropriately for the weather. Dressing in layers is the best approach. It provides more efficient insulation and gives you more options for adjusting your clothing as either the outside temperature or your body temperature changes. Having a water proof or at least water resistant outer "shell" is a must for wet weather. It may be needed even in snow since melting snow can penetrate some otherwise warm coats or snow suits rather quickly. For dirt biking, we chose "Windchill" jerseys and gloves and wore long johns under our riding pants. It is also surprising how much protection you get from a thin nylon face mask. I found one frustration with face masks. If I covered my nose to keep it warm, my breath would fog my goggles so to see where I was going I often had to live with a cold nose.
Exercise is one way of warming up your body. Henry Ford allegdedly said "Cutting your own wood warms you twice." If you don't have any productive physical activities to warm you up you can do calisthenics or go for a run or walk. However, don't work up too much of a sweat as that will just make you colder! Les Stroud (Survivorman) warns against doing too much work in cold weather because sweating will cause you to lose necessary body heat.
Campfires are another way of keeping warm outdoors. You don't necessarily need a large fire to keep warm. "White man build big fire, stand way back; Indian build small fire, get up close." Another trick is to build more than one fire if you are having trouble keeping warm. Having one big fire will only keep one side of you warm at a time. You usually end up too warm on the side toward the fire and freezing on the other side. Build two small fires and stand between them -- or build a ring of small fires and stand in the middle -- to warm you all around. Another useful tip is to build a fire where the heat will be reflected back toward you, like building it against a large rock, an embankment, a wall, a snowbank or even building your own "reflector" out of logs. That way you can take advantage of more of the heat of the fire instead of having a lot of it escape in the wrong direction. The reflection technique is also good for helping to heat a shelter using an outside fire. Build the fire safely outside the entrance to the shelter with a reflector on the opposite side of the fire from the entrance. I have some devices called "Back Reflectors" that attach to the back of a folding camp chair and extend down underneath toward the front. The idea is that they reflect heat from the campfire up your back. If nothing else, the plastic sheeting itself blocks the wind so your backside stays a little warmer. I'm glad I bought mine when I did because I've never seen them again since. You could probably make your own from Reflectix foam reflective insulation or even windshield sun screens. Sometimes you can buy silver colored windshield screens at your local dollar store, making it a pretty cheap experiment if you want to try it out.
Body heat is another way of staying warm if you can keep it from escaping. 4-season tents and winter sleeping bags are one good way to preserve it. If you have enough people you might be able to keep the inside of an RV warm too. The human body is said to produce about the same heat as a 100 watt incandescent light bulb. I've never measured it but I remember one cold December in Utah when we had 20 people in our living room and even without the heat on or any fire in the fireplace, it got so warm we had to open some windows -- and it was in the teens outside!
Warm up!
Staying warm in an RV is usually just a matter of setting the thermostat or turning on the furnace. If you want to conserve battery power and propane at night you might shut off the furnace and then you'll need warm bedding. Blankets, a comforter, or warm sleeping bags are good ways to stay warm in bed. Some folks like to "over heat" their rigs a little before bedtime to keep it warmer longer when they retire, then turn the furnace off at night. Not sure that there is any real savings in propane or battery power by doing that. And, if you're like me, you may find it hard to get to sleep if it is too hot. My preference is to set the thermostat at a comfortable level and be comfortable all night. If I wanted to freeze at night I could sleep in a tent or outside under the stars. Keep windows and vents closed and limit opening doors to reduce heat loss. Window coverings will also help prevent loss of heat. Most RVs have only single pane glass, which is a pretty good conductor of heat, allowing valuable heat to escape. Curtains and drapes or shades will help, but using a sheet of bubble foam insulation in the window gives even more protection. You might even install "storm windows" on your RV using plastic kits designed for home use. Stretch them over the outside of the window frame and shrink to fit using a heat gun or hair dryer. You'll be surprised how much keeping the drapes closed and using foam inserts will contribute to retaining heat. During the day you can wear a sweater or sweatshirt to stay warm without over taxing your furnace or propane supply. Hard surface floors can be cold to walk on and may allow heat to escape. A runner or throw rug will help mitigate these problems. Of course just wearing slippers will keep your feet from getting cold, but they won't reduce heat transfer through the floor and help keep your rig warm like a rug will. If all or at least most of the floors are carpeted, you're already covered (pun intended).
If you're camping in an RV in freezing weather you'll have to keep critical parts of the RV water systems warm in addition to keeping the people inside comfortable. Exposed plumbing may freeze and break so it must be protected, either using antifreeze in the system or by keep it warm using heaters. There are specially designed heating pads to keep holding tanks warm. The better ones can operate on either 120-volt or 12-volt power sources. If you're connected to a faucet in a campground you'll also need a heated water hose. You can buy water hoses with built in heaters or wrap your regular potable water hose with heat tape. Placing a 100-watt bulb inside the relevant compartments of RVs with enclosed holding tanks and dump valves will usually be enough to prevent freezing, but exposed hosed, tanks, and valves will need special attention.
Staying warm in a tent usually means having the right sleeping bag or blankets for the temperature for sleeping. If your bag isn't warm enough you can supplement it with liners, covers, blankets or comforters. If you expect to be camping in cold weather, consider getting a 4-season tent. A double wall tent (i.e., a tent with a rain fly) or covering your tent with a tarp may provide some additional insulation and better heat retention. Staying warm in a tent during waking hours may require a tent heater and/or extra clothing. Tent heaters are usually some form of catalytic heater that gives off few if any toxic fumes, but they will all consume oxygen. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for proper ventilation to avoid suffocation! A Coleman lantern (white gas or propane) gives off quite a bit of heat and often is enough to warm a small tent. But these also consume oxygen so maintain adequate ventilation when using them and keep them away from flammable materials.. Body heat is sometimes enough to warm a tent in milder cool temperatures. You'd be surprised how much heat several human bodies will generate when confined in a small space like a tent. With 20 people in my living room during a cold Utah winter it got so warm we had to open the windows -- without any fire in the fire place or turning on any heat. Each person puts out about as much heat as a 100 watt incandescent bulb. Body heat will probably not be enough in really cold or freezing temperatures in even the warmest tent or best insulated RV.
Wood burning tent stoves are an option for some larger tents. They must be properly installed and vented. You normally need a heat resistant platform on which to set them and a fireproof way to vent the stove pipe through the roof. Using a gasoline or propane camp stove in a tent is usually a very bad idea! Even the cute little catalytic tent heaters will consume oxygen, so be sure provide adequate ventilation in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions to avoid suffocation. Lacking proper documentation, leave windows on opposite sides open about 1" to ensure adequate air flow.
Staying warm usually means staying dry. Heat loss through wet clothes is something like 25 times as fast as through dry clothes. If you've been caught in the rain or have melting snow on your clothes, change into dry clothes as soon as possible. You will be warmer wrapped in a dry blanket than wearing a damp heavy winter coat. If you become severely chilled (hypothermic) you may need to enlist the aid of a companion to help you get warm. Sharing a blanket or sleeping bag will help you warm up. Make sure neither of you is wearing any wet clothing. And, yes, skin-to-skin is best, if modesty doesn't get in the way. One very effective technique for warming a badly chilled person is fondly nicknamed "The Burritto". Get your victim out of any wet clothing and wrap them in multiple layers of warm dry blankets, coats, or sleeping bags. They'll usually be scrambling to get out of some of the layers within 15-20 minutes as they warm up. For severely chilled victims, wrap them up with a warm companion.
Staying warm outside requires dressing appropriately for the weather. Dressing in layers is the best approach. It provides more efficient insulation and gives you more options for adjusting your clothing as either the outside temperature or your body temperature changes. Having a water proof or at least water resistant outer "shell" is a must for wet weather. It may be needed even in snow since melting snow can penetrate some otherwise warm coats or snow suits rather quickly. For dirt biking, we chose "Windchill" jerseys and gloves and wore long johns under our riding pants. It is also surprising how much protection you get from a thin nylon face mask. I found one frustration with face masks. If I covered my nose to keep it warm, my breath would fog my goggles so to see where I was going I often had to live with a cold nose.
Exercise is one way of warming up your body. Henry Ford allegdedly said "Cutting your own wood warms you twice." If you don't have any productive physical activities to warm you up you can do calisthenics or go for a run or walk. However, don't work up too much of a sweat as that will just make you colder! Les Stroud (Survivorman) warns against doing too much work in cold weather because sweating will cause you to lose necessary body heat.
Campfires are another way of keeping warm outdoors. You don't necessarily need a large fire to keep warm. "White man build big fire, stand way back; Indian build small fire, get up close." Another trick is to build more than one fire if you are having trouble keeping warm. Having one big fire will only keep one side of you warm at a time. You usually end up too warm on the side toward the fire and freezing on the other side. Build two small fires and stand between them -- or build a ring of small fires and stand in the middle -- to warm you all around. Another useful tip is to build a fire where the heat will be reflected back toward you, like building it against a large rock, an embankment, a wall, a snowbank or even building your own "reflector" out of logs. That way you can take advantage of more of the heat of the fire instead of having a lot of it escape in the wrong direction. The reflection technique is also good for helping to heat a shelter using an outside fire. Build the fire safely outside the entrance to the shelter with a reflector on the opposite side of the fire from the entrance. I have some devices called "Back Reflectors" that attach to the back of a folding camp chair and extend down underneath toward the front. The idea is that they reflect heat from the campfire up your back. If nothing else, the plastic sheeting itself blocks the wind so your backside stays a little warmer. I'm glad I bought mine when I did because I've never seen them again since. You could probably make your own from Reflectix foam reflective insulation or even windshield sun screens. Sometimes you can buy silver colored windshield screens at your local dollar store, making it a pretty cheap experiment if you want to try it out.
Body heat is another way of staying warm if you can keep it from escaping. 4-season tents and winter sleeping bags are one good way to preserve it. If you have enough people you might be able to keep the inside of an RV warm too. The human body is said to produce about the same heat as a 100 watt incandescent light bulb. I've never measured it but I remember one cold December in Utah when we had 20 people in our living room and even without the heat on or any fire in the fireplace, it got so warm we had to open some windows -- and it was in the teens outside!
Warm up!
Keeping Your Cool in Camp
Since a lot of our outdoor recreational activities take place during the summer time, keeping cool is often a problem faced by campers and RVers. Of course, if you're camping in a motorhome or trailer equipped with air conditioning, it becomes a lot easier. But, if you don't have an air conditioned RV or simply don't want to be cooped up inside or don't have shore power or can't run your generator to power the A/C, staying cool and comfortable outside becomes a priority.
Dress right to stay cooler. When its cold you can add layers to help stay warmer, but, let's face it, there's only so much you can take off when its too warm, even in a "clothes optional" environment. In fact, sometimes more is less. Dressing in loose fitting long sleeved shirts and long pants will usually be cooler than shorts and tank tops. Consider the style of clothing worn by nomadic desert tribes like the Bedouins. They wear loose-fitting robes that cover their entire bodies. Loose fitting clothing protects you from direct sunlight while allowing perspiration to evaporate to cool your skin. Its kind of like wearing your own shade. A big, broad brimmed hat will also help protect you from the heat of the sun. Skimpy clothing is an asset when you're in the water, but when you're not, it just exposes more of your skin to the heat and harmful UV rays from the sun.
If you are fortunate enough to have an RV with air conditioning and the power to operate it (either shore power or an on board generator) you can stay cool in your RV. Many large RVs have multiple roof-mounted air conditioning units. These can usually be run at the same time when using the generator but often can only be run one at a time when connected to 30-amp shore power. That is because the combined power demand of two A/Cs exceeds the capacity of the 30-amp service. In this case, there will usually be a switch that lets you select which A/C to run. Some of the fancier units have devices that automatically switch between the two air conditioners. Alternate running each one to distribute wear and tear and to keep both ends of the RV cool. Large RVs with 50 amp service can usually handle running both A/Cs at the same time. When you are boondocking, you won't be able to run your A/Cs all night. Running the generator at night may disturb other nearby campers and can subject you and your family to carbon monoxide poisoning if the exhaust seeps into your coach. Carbon monoxide is odorless so you can easily slip into a sleep you'll never wake from without any warning! Running your A/C at night in a campground, even on shore power, may disturb other campers. Keep your A/C in good condition. Clean and straighten the cooling fins on the roof and clean the filters inside. Start running your A/C before is gets hot inside. It is easier for the A/C to maintain a comfortable temperature than it is is to cool down a hot environment. Always allow at least 5-10 minutes after an air conditioner has been running and is shut off to switch back to it or turn it back on. Pressure builds up in the compressor and if it hasn't had time to bleed off, restarting the air conditioner and put an extreme load on the motor and on the on board generator that may cause permanent damage. Use reflective foam insulation panels (similar to windshield sun screens) in all the windows to keep the heat out and the cool in. And, of course, take full advantage of drapes and curtains to help keep the heat out. Limit opening doors and window to prevent loss of cool air inside. Use patio and window awning (if you have them) to keep sun from shining directly through the windows.
Shade. A fundamental component of staying comfortable in hot weather is to stay in the shade. It may be natural, under trees and bushes or man-made, under roofs, canopies, awnings and umbrellas or even wearing a broad-brimmed hat. Many RVs have patio awnings that make shade easy. Bag awnings aren't quite as convenient to set up, but the result is about the same -- for significantly less cost. Permanently attached RV awnings typically run $500-$1000, more for fancy electrically operated models. Bag awnings, which temporarily attach to your RV, are in the range of $200-$300. A simple free-standing "dining fly" can often be purchased for under $20 and can keep the sun off you and your guests at the picnic table or anywhere you choose to set it up. Another type of popular stand-alone awnings are "E-Z-Ups". These have expandable aluminum frames that don't require the ropes and stakes of dining flys, but are a bit more expensive. Expect to pay $60-$100 for the smaller ones. Makeshift shades can often be created using tarps strung between trees or vehicles. In a pinch you may be able to toss a tarp or blanket across a couple of camp chairs to give yourself somewhere out of the sun to sit. Window awnings on RVs will keep direct sunlight from shining through the windows and further heating the interior while still letting you see out.
Umbrellas are not just for rain. They can also be effective as sun shades. You may recall seeing young ladies carrying parasols in old time movies to shade them from the sun. Umbrellas come in many sizes. Large patio umbrellas may be a little cumbersome to take camping, but they will provide a lot of shade, usually enough for a half dozen people to escape the sun's wrath. Smaller lawn, golf, or beach umbrellas may be easier to transport and still provide shade for several people. Another convenient adaptation are individual umbrellas with clamps that they can be attached to camp chairs so you don't have to hold them.
Misters. Mist systems can add cooling under your RV patio awning just as they can at home. To avoid burning up my primary water pump or wasting all my precious fresh water supply, I rigged a secondary pump and fed it from portable 5-gallon water jugs to feed the misters on my motorhome awning. It made afternoons in the Mojave Desert much more comfortable. Why does mist keep us cool? The main factor is evaporation. Water consumes 530 calories of heat per gram of liquid water converted to water vapor. Compare that to only 80 calories required to convert a gram of ice to liquid water. So evaporating water removes a little over 6 1/2 times as much heat as melting ice per volume! The evaporating mist cools the air around us and cools us directly when it falls on us and again when it evaporates from our skin. You can buy mist systems just about anywhere RV accessories are sold these days as well as at home centers.
Personal cooling systems. Today there are many personal cooling systems on the market. These usually consist of small water containers and a method delivering the water as mist. Some have built-in hand pumps to pressurize the container, some have battery-operated pumps. Some have their own battery powered fans. In a pinch, or simply for convenience or to save money, you can use an ordinary spray bottle. I usually get mine at Dollar Tree. It isn't quite as convenient or elegant as the pressurized mist systems, but you can direct the cooling spray where and when you need it. It is also very portable so you can carry it with you on hikes and have it handy for other activities. You can use a spray bottle sitting in the shade, relaxing inside your tent or RV, or even during many activities. Some of the available personal cooling systems include a battery-powered fan to move the air. Air movement speeds evaporation and makes you feel cooler quicker. The mist cools the air around us and cools us directly when it falls on us. The key is evaporation. Water absorbs heat as it evaporates. It takes more calories to turn water to vapor than it does melt ice. Remember, the heat of evaporation is 530 calories/gram; melting ice only absorbs 80 calories per gram. That means converting a gram of water to water vapor absorbs more than 6.6 times as much heat as melting 1 gram of ice.
Inside your RV. Of course the ultimate way to keep your RV cool is with an air conditioner. But not all RVs have them and they require 120-volt power and can be expensive to operate. Some full hookup campgrounds charge extra if you use your air conditioner and running the generator all day while dry camping burns gas, which is getting more expensive every day. There are 12-volt evaporative coolers that work in some dry climates but not in high humidity. They're OK in desert environments, but won't work well in places like Florida or other damp climates. If you are using one of these, be sure to keep at least one window slightly open. Just like a "swamp cooler" on your permanent home, they draw air in from the outside through a water-soaked filter, cooling the air as it enters. The stale, moist air needs someplace to go, so leave one or more windows slightly open. You can even control where the air moves to some extent by which windows you open. If you keep all the windows closed, the RV becomes pressurized and the cool air can't enter. In addition, the saturated air is stuck inside, making it very humid and uncomfortable. You will also be surprised how much cooler you will feel if you just open a roof vent and one or two windows. The hot air will rise up through the roof vent and draw (hopefully) cooler air in through the windows. Even if the outside air isn't cooler, the mere movement of air will help you feel cooler and more comfortable since air movement aids evaporation of perspiration and draws heat from you skin. Battery powered or 12-volt fans can be used to circulate air and improve comfort. Powered roof vents are an excellent way to get rid of hot air in an RV but usually don't move enough air to create much of a breeze. Even so, you might be surprised how much more comfortable you can be with just little bit of ventilation.
Just as you need protection from overheating, so does your RV, generator, tow vehicle, or OHV. Make sure the cooling system on all equipment is clean and properly maintained. Clear air flow to generator compartments is essential. Clean air filters on all engines will reduce stress on the engines. Many OHVs need to keep moving to get sufficient air flow through the radiator (liquid cooled) or past the cooling fins (air cooled) so avoid excessive idling. Make sure the oil level is correct. Low oil levels can increase friction and contribute to overheating. Some engines may benefit from an oversize oil filter that provides extra oil to help cool the engine. Yes, oil does contribute to cooling your engines by carrying heat away. Finned covers for oil filters may help dissipate heat from the oil.
Staying cool in a tent. Pitch your tent where you can take advantage of natural shade when you can -- assuming it doesn't put it in danger of falling branches or wildfire. If your tent has a rain fly, make sure to use it. It will shade the top of the tent from direct sunlight and leaves space for air to move beneath it and carry away heat from the tent itself. If yours does not have a rain fly, you might try setting up a dining fly or tarp over your tent to shade it from direct sun. Open windows or doors on opposite sides of the tent to allow cross ventilation. When choosing which openings to use, take advantage of any prevailing breezes and/or nearby shade that may provide a source for cooler air. Battery powered fans can help move air to keep you more comfortable when you're in your tent. There are few options for mechanically cooling a tent bu here is a link to how to make an inexpensive "air conditioner" for your tent: Tent Air Conditioner.
Cool slumber. Staying cool at night presents its own set of needs. If you are relying on your generator to run the A/C during the day, you need to shut it off during "quiet hours" at night. Even if you are boondocking way out in the middle of no where with no one else around, it is not a good idea to run the generator at night to keep your A/C going. Generator exhaust contains carbon monoxide, which can infiltrate your RV and kill you while you sleep. All it takes is a slight shift in wind direction to blow fumes back into your coach. I try to keep my RV cool during the day, which helps pull the heat out of furnishings so it doesn't warm up too quickly when I turn the A/C off at bedtime. Also, open a roof vent and a window or two near your bed to create a slight breeze. If that isn't enough, a 12-volt fan can move some air to help keep you cool. Usually things cool down enough at night to make sleep comfortable in an RV or in a tent and it won't draw the batteries down any more than running the furnace fan on a cold night. If you are too warm in your tent, open windows or doors on opposite sides to allow cross ventilation and sleep on top of your sleeping bag instead of inside of it. Another way to sleep cool, if the environment is suitable, is to sleep outdoors in a hammock. A hammock will need strong anchor points -- trees, posts, vehicles, or a hammock frame. You may also need a mosquito net if bugs are a problem. You might not want to sleep outside if you are in an area where bears frequently enter campsites. Bears are usually more of a problem in parks where they are frequently fed by tourists than they are in the wilderness where they will normally avoid contact with human beings.
It is a common misconception that fans cool. Fans do not cool the air. All they do is move the air so you feel cooler. Moving air speeds evaporation and carries heat away from your body so you feel cooler. A common accessory for RVs is an oscillating fun that runs on 12-volt power. There are both portable and permanently mounted versions that can make you more comfortable in warm weather. Some ceiling vents are equipped with fans to aid the ejection of hot air or to draw in cool air. Ceiling vents with fans are also helpful if you need to expel smoke or cooking odors from your RV. There are portable, battery-powered fans you can use in your tent too. In a pinch, you can use a magazine, a paper plate, or a piece of cardboard or fold a sheet of paper into a fan and wave it near your face to speed evaporation and cooling. Although fans do not cool by themselves, they are very useful for exchanging air. If it is warmer in your RV than it is outside, you can cool the inside of your RV by expelling hot air through the ceiling vent and letting cooler air enter through the windows. Even if it is no cooler outside than it is inside, the movement of air will still make you feel cooler, even though it won't cool the air in the RV. By the way, if it is colder in your RV than it is outside and you want to warm it up, open the windows and turn on the ceiling vent. If yours is equipped with a reversible fan you can use it to draw in warm air from above the RV. Taking advantage of warmer outside air can reduce the demand on your furnace, warming your RV quicker and conserving propane.
Keeping cool during summer activities like riding an OHV, horseback riding, or hiking takes some thought and creativity. Keeping moving on your OHV or horse can keep air flowing past your body and speed evaporation of perspiration, which will help cool you. When hiking you can try to stay in the shade as much as possible and carry a spray bottle to supplement your own perspiration to help keep you cool. Of course dressing appropriately for the weather will also help you feel cooler. Drink plenty of water or sports drinks to maintain your hydration and electrolyte levels. If you loose too much of your body fluids through perspiration you will stop sweating and then your body has no way to cool itself and you will be in danger of serious heat illness. I once tried a quilted "cooling vest" for dirt biking. It had to be soaked with cool water and cooled by evaporation. It seemed to provide some cooling for a short time but all too soon I found it was just additional weight and padding under my jersey without cooling me for long. Once it dried out, it was like wearing a thermal vest! I have seen battery powered cooling vests that circulate coolant to carry heat away but I found them too expensive and too bulky for dirt biking.
Keep cool!
Dress right to stay cooler. When its cold you can add layers to help stay warmer, but, let's face it, there's only so much you can take off when its too warm, even in a "clothes optional" environment. In fact, sometimes more is less. Dressing in loose fitting long sleeved shirts and long pants will usually be cooler than shorts and tank tops. Consider the style of clothing worn by nomadic desert tribes like the Bedouins. They wear loose-fitting robes that cover their entire bodies. Loose fitting clothing protects you from direct sunlight while allowing perspiration to evaporate to cool your skin. Its kind of like wearing your own shade. A big, broad brimmed hat will also help protect you from the heat of the sun. Skimpy clothing is an asset when you're in the water, but when you're not, it just exposes more of your skin to the heat and harmful UV rays from the sun.
If you are fortunate enough to have an RV with air conditioning and the power to operate it (either shore power or an on board generator) you can stay cool in your RV. Many large RVs have multiple roof-mounted air conditioning units. These can usually be run at the same time when using the generator but often can only be run one at a time when connected to 30-amp shore power. That is because the combined power demand of two A/Cs exceeds the capacity of the 30-amp service. In this case, there will usually be a switch that lets you select which A/C to run. Some of the fancier units have devices that automatically switch between the two air conditioners. Alternate running each one to distribute wear and tear and to keep both ends of the RV cool. Large RVs with 50 amp service can usually handle running both A/Cs at the same time. When you are boondocking, you won't be able to run your A/Cs all night. Running the generator at night may disturb other nearby campers and can subject you and your family to carbon monoxide poisoning if the exhaust seeps into your coach. Carbon monoxide is odorless so you can easily slip into a sleep you'll never wake from without any warning! Running your A/C at night in a campground, even on shore power, may disturb other campers. Keep your A/C in good condition. Clean and straighten the cooling fins on the roof and clean the filters inside. Start running your A/C before is gets hot inside. It is easier for the A/C to maintain a comfortable temperature than it is is to cool down a hot environment. Always allow at least 5-10 minutes after an air conditioner has been running and is shut off to switch back to it or turn it back on. Pressure builds up in the compressor and if it hasn't had time to bleed off, restarting the air conditioner and put an extreme load on the motor and on the on board generator that may cause permanent damage. Use reflective foam insulation panels (similar to windshield sun screens) in all the windows to keep the heat out and the cool in. And, of course, take full advantage of drapes and curtains to help keep the heat out. Limit opening doors and window to prevent loss of cool air inside. Use patio and window awning (if you have them) to keep sun from shining directly through the windows.
Shade. A fundamental component of staying comfortable in hot weather is to stay in the shade. It may be natural, under trees and bushes or man-made, under roofs, canopies, awnings and umbrellas or even wearing a broad-brimmed hat. Many RVs have patio awnings that make shade easy. Bag awnings aren't quite as convenient to set up, but the result is about the same -- for significantly less cost. Permanently attached RV awnings typically run $500-$1000, more for fancy electrically operated models. Bag awnings, which temporarily attach to your RV, are in the range of $200-$300. A simple free-standing "dining fly" can often be purchased for under $20 and can keep the sun off you and your guests at the picnic table or anywhere you choose to set it up. Another type of popular stand-alone awnings are "E-Z-Ups". These have expandable aluminum frames that don't require the ropes and stakes of dining flys, but are a bit more expensive. Expect to pay $60-$100 for the smaller ones. Makeshift shades can often be created using tarps strung between trees or vehicles. In a pinch you may be able to toss a tarp or blanket across a couple of camp chairs to give yourself somewhere out of the sun to sit. Window awnings on RVs will keep direct sunlight from shining through the windows and further heating the interior while still letting you see out.
Umbrellas are not just for rain. They can also be effective as sun shades. You may recall seeing young ladies carrying parasols in old time movies to shade them from the sun. Umbrellas come in many sizes. Large patio umbrellas may be a little cumbersome to take camping, but they will provide a lot of shade, usually enough for a half dozen people to escape the sun's wrath. Smaller lawn, golf, or beach umbrellas may be easier to transport and still provide shade for several people. Another convenient adaptation are individual umbrellas with clamps that they can be attached to camp chairs so you don't have to hold them.
Misters. Mist systems can add cooling under your RV patio awning just as they can at home. To avoid burning up my primary water pump or wasting all my precious fresh water supply, I rigged a secondary pump and fed it from portable 5-gallon water jugs to feed the misters on my motorhome awning. It made afternoons in the Mojave Desert much more comfortable. Why does mist keep us cool? The main factor is evaporation. Water consumes 530 calories of heat per gram of liquid water converted to water vapor. Compare that to only 80 calories required to convert a gram of ice to liquid water. So evaporating water removes a little over 6 1/2 times as much heat as melting ice per volume! The evaporating mist cools the air around us and cools us directly when it falls on us and again when it evaporates from our skin. You can buy mist systems just about anywhere RV accessories are sold these days as well as at home centers.
Personal cooling systems. Today there are many personal cooling systems on the market. These usually consist of small water containers and a method delivering the water as mist. Some have built-in hand pumps to pressurize the container, some have battery-operated pumps. Some have their own battery powered fans. In a pinch, or simply for convenience or to save money, you can use an ordinary spray bottle. I usually get mine at Dollar Tree. It isn't quite as convenient or elegant as the pressurized mist systems, but you can direct the cooling spray where and when you need it. It is also very portable so you can carry it with you on hikes and have it handy for other activities. You can use a spray bottle sitting in the shade, relaxing inside your tent or RV, or even during many activities. Some of the available personal cooling systems include a battery-powered fan to move the air. Air movement speeds evaporation and makes you feel cooler quicker. The mist cools the air around us and cools us directly when it falls on us. The key is evaporation. Water absorbs heat as it evaporates. It takes more calories to turn water to vapor than it does melt ice. Remember, the heat of evaporation is 530 calories/gram; melting ice only absorbs 80 calories per gram. That means converting a gram of water to water vapor absorbs more than 6.6 times as much heat as melting 1 gram of ice.
Inside your RV. Of course the ultimate way to keep your RV cool is with an air conditioner. But not all RVs have them and they require 120-volt power and can be expensive to operate. Some full hookup campgrounds charge extra if you use your air conditioner and running the generator all day while dry camping burns gas, which is getting more expensive every day. There are 12-volt evaporative coolers that work in some dry climates but not in high humidity. They're OK in desert environments, but won't work well in places like Florida or other damp climates. If you are using one of these, be sure to keep at least one window slightly open. Just like a "swamp cooler" on your permanent home, they draw air in from the outside through a water-soaked filter, cooling the air as it enters. The stale, moist air needs someplace to go, so leave one or more windows slightly open. You can even control where the air moves to some extent by which windows you open. If you keep all the windows closed, the RV becomes pressurized and the cool air can't enter. In addition, the saturated air is stuck inside, making it very humid and uncomfortable. You will also be surprised how much cooler you will feel if you just open a roof vent and one or two windows. The hot air will rise up through the roof vent and draw (hopefully) cooler air in through the windows. Even if the outside air isn't cooler, the mere movement of air will help you feel cooler and more comfortable since air movement aids evaporation of perspiration and draws heat from you skin. Battery powered or 12-volt fans can be used to circulate air and improve comfort. Powered roof vents are an excellent way to get rid of hot air in an RV but usually don't move enough air to create much of a breeze. Even so, you might be surprised how much more comfortable you can be with just little bit of ventilation.
Just as you need protection from overheating, so does your RV, generator, tow vehicle, or OHV. Make sure the cooling system on all equipment is clean and properly maintained. Clear air flow to generator compartments is essential. Clean air filters on all engines will reduce stress on the engines. Many OHVs need to keep moving to get sufficient air flow through the radiator (liquid cooled) or past the cooling fins (air cooled) so avoid excessive idling. Make sure the oil level is correct. Low oil levels can increase friction and contribute to overheating. Some engines may benefit from an oversize oil filter that provides extra oil to help cool the engine. Yes, oil does contribute to cooling your engines by carrying heat away. Finned covers for oil filters may help dissipate heat from the oil.
Staying cool in a tent. Pitch your tent where you can take advantage of natural shade when you can -- assuming it doesn't put it in danger of falling branches or wildfire. If your tent has a rain fly, make sure to use it. It will shade the top of the tent from direct sunlight and leaves space for air to move beneath it and carry away heat from the tent itself. If yours does not have a rain fly, you might try setting up a dining fly or tarp over your tent to shade it from direct sun. Open windows or doors on opposite sides of the tent to allow cross ventilation. When choosing which openings to use, take advantage of any prevailing breezes and/or nearby shade that may provide a source for cooler air. Battery powered fans can help move air to keep you more comfortable when you're in your tent. There are few options for mechanically cooling a tent bu here is a link to how to make an inexpensive "air conditioner" for your tent: Tent Air Conditioner.
Cool slumber. Staying cool at night presents its own set of needs. If you are relying on your generator to run the A/C during the day, you need to shut it off during "quiet hours" at night. Even if you are boondocking way out in the middle of no where with no one else around, it is not a good idea to run the generator at night to keep your A/C going. Generator exhaust contains carbon monoxide, which can infiltrate your RV and kill you while you sleep. All it takes is a slight shift in wind direction to blow fumes back into your coach. I try to keep my RV cool during the day, which helps pull the heat out of furnishings so it doesn't warm up too quickly when I turn the A/C off at bedtime. Also, open a roof vent and a window or two near your bed to create a slight breeze. If that isn't enough, a 12-volt fan can move some air to help keep you cool. Usually things cool down enough at night to make sleep comfortable in an RV or in a tent and it won't draw the batteries down any more than running the furnace fan on a cold night. If you are too warm in your tent, open windows or doors on opposite sides to allow cross ventilation and sleep on top of your sleeping bag instead of inside of it. Another way to sleep cool, if the environment is suitable, is to sleep outdoors in a hammock. A hammock will need strong anchor points -- trees, posts, vehicles, or a hammock frame. You may also need a mosquito net if bugs are a problem. You might not want to sleep outside if you are in an area where bears frequently enter campsites. Bears are usually more of a problem in parks where they are frequently fed by tourists than they are in the wilderness where they will normally avoid contact with human beings.
It is a common misconception that fans cool. Fans do not cool the air. All they do is move the air so you feel cooler. Moving air speeds evaporation and carries heat away from your body so you feel cooler. A common accessory for RVs is an oscillating fun that runs on 12-volt power. There are both portable and permanently mounted versions that can make you more comfortable in warm weather. Some ceiling vents are equipped with fans to aid the ejection of hot air or to draw in cool air. Ceiling vents with fans are also helpful if you need to expel smoke or cooking odors from your RV. There are portable, battery-powered fans you can use in your tent too. In a pinch, you can use a magazine, a paper plate, or a piece of cardboard or fold a sheet of paper into a fan and wave it near your face to speed evaporation and cooling. Although fans do not cool by themselves, they are very useful for exchanging air. If it is warmer in your RV than it is outside, you can cool the inside of your RV by expelling hot air through the ceiling vent and letting cooler air enter through the windows. Even if it is no cooler outside than it is inside, the movement of air will still make you feel cooler, even though it won't cool the air in the RV. By the way, if it is colder in your RV than it is outside and you want to warm it up, open the windows and turn on the ceiling vent. If yours is equipped with a reversible fan you can use it to draw in warm air from above the RV. Taking advantage of warmer outside air can reduce the demand on your furnace, warming your RV quicker and conserving propane.
Keeping cool during summer activities like riding an OHV, horseback riding, or hiking takes some thought and creativity. Keeping moving on your OHV or horse can keep air flowing past your body and speed evaporation of perspiration, which will help cool you. When hiking you can try to stay in the shade as much as possible and carry a spray bottle to supplement your own perspiration to help keep you cool. Of course dressing appropriately for the weather will also help you feel cooler. Drink plenty of water or sports drinks to maintain your hydration and electrolyte levels. If you loose too much of your body fluids through perspiration you will stop sweating and then your body has no way to cool itself and you will be in danger of serious heat illness. I once tried a quilted "cooling vest" for dirt biking. It had to be soaked with cool water and cooled by evaporation. It seemed to provide some cooling for a short time but all too soon I found it was just additional weight and padding under my jersey without cooling me for long. Once it dried out, it was like wearing a thermal vest! I have seen battery powered cooling vests that circulate coolant to carry heat away but I found them too expensive and too bulky for dirt biking.
Keep cool!
Monday, March 21, 2011
RV and Marine Battery Maintenance
Your RV batteries are crucial to the functionality of many systems in your RV or boat. You usually have two battery systems: a starting battery for the engine and one or more deep cycle "house batteries" to power your lights and appliances in the living area. Unless you are plugged into 120 volt shore power they are the primary source of power for lights, water pump, radios, control boards in appliances, and the fan for your furnace. If you run out of battery power, you may find the nights get pretty cold when your furnace stops working. It is ironic that when the battery voltage gets low, the furnace fan will not shut off. So it continues blowing cold air and further discharges the batteries. So, if you wake up in the middle of the night and the furnace is continually blowing cold air, turn it off to conserve what little charge is left in your batteries. Be sure to check to make sure you didn't run out of propane, which can be another reason the furnace doesn't work. And those wonderful home-like sinks, showers, and toilets that make life easy don't function at all if there is no power for the water pump.
An old rule of thumb says batteries should be replaced about every 3 years, but "your mileage may vary". Newer battery technology seems to have extended the life of some batteries. Lack of maintenance and abuse will significantly shorten battery life. Proper maintenance and usage can prolong it. If your batteries are three or more years older and are not delivering the performance you expect, it may be time to replace them -- or at least take them down and get them tested. Of course, the quality and original rating of the battery are also significant factors. So what constitutes abuse and what is proper maintenance? Abusing your batteries consists of not keeping them properly charged, frequently running them way down, letting the connections become loose or corroded, or letting the electrolyte levels fall below normal. Some batteries are promoted as "maintenance free". Gas-mat type batteries really are, but if they are wet-cell, lead-acid batteries, you still need to pry off the caps and check the electrolyte level occasionally. Most batteries have a fluid level indicator built into the fill opening and fluid should be maintained at that level. You need to more than just barely cover the plates and less than filling to the top of the opening. Typically there should always be about 1/2" of electrolyte above the plates. Under filling will result in low electrolyte and shorten battery life. Low electrolyte exposes the plates and can lead to immediate sulfation which quickly destroys the battery. Over filling will result in excess boiling and off-gassing and may pop the filler caps off and spew acid when the battery is being charged. Add only distilled water to top off batteries. Ordinary tap water or even bottled water contains contaminants that will reduce power and shorten battery life so it should used sparingly and only in emergencies. I have seen battery additives that are advertised to prolong battery life and restore functionality. They may be worth trying if you have batteries that are in bad shape. It is a good idea to verify electrolyte levels as part of your routine pre-trip checklist and about once a month when your RV is in storage. It is a tedious task, but well worth it considering the inconvenience in camp and the cost of replacing dead batteries.
The starting battery for a motorhome or boat is usually located in or near the engine compartment. House batteries could be located just about anywhere. Sometimes they are also housed in the engine compartment but moreoften they are in a separate compartment, often under the entry step, dinette, or near the generator. Some motorhomes have a dedicated starting battery for the generator. When I had one like that I replaced the generator starting battery with an extra 12 volt deep cycle battery and wired it in parallel with the existing coach battery to give me more power for lights, furnace, etc. in camp and extra power for starting the generator. Many motorhomes use the coach batteries for starting the generator. When all the batteries are located under the hood it is a good idea to check to see what is connected to each battery bank. I once bought a motorhome with all the batteries under the hood and was very surprised when I discovered the starter was connected to the coach batteries instead of the starting battery! Trying to jump start the vehicle with jumper cables on the starting battery didn't really do much good.
Checking the status of your batteries. It is pretty obvious our batteries have run down when we can no longer start our vehicles or when the lights in our RVs are dim or the furnace won't run. Many RVs have a battery gauge that gives you some idea of the battery condition. These little gauges are essentially volt meters marked to give you an easy to read indication of the status of the batteries. To really know the state of your batteries you need to test the actual voltage or measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte in the battery. A fully charged 12 volt battery should have a voltage around 13.6 volts. You may get a higher reading if the batteries have been recently charged (like driving the vehicle). That is what is known as a "surface charge". Charging voltage while the alternator is operating will be 14-15 volts. Higher charging voltages, like the 18 volts I discovered coming from a failing RV converter will cause the batteries to boil and eventually "fry" them. Anything below 11.6 volts is fully discharged. You need a battery hydrometer to measure specific gravity. This is a device that draws a little electrolyte out of the cells. Some hydrometers may be calibrated so you can read the specific gravity but most of the ones I've seen in auto parts stores contain a number of different colored balls. You determine the specific gravity by observing which balls are floating or counting the number of balls that are floating. You can't check the specific gravity of the electrolyte in sealed batteries. Avoid discharging your batteries below 80% or 10.5 volts. Doing so can permanently damage batteries. Maintain the proper electrolyte level. Most batteries have a built in indicator that makes the electrolyte form a dome when the right level is reached in the opening. If you don't see one, fill to about 1/4" below the bottom of the fill hole or about 1/2" to 3/4" above the plates. NEVER let the electrolyte level drop below the top of the plates as that contributes to fast sulfation of the exposed surfaces. Use distilled water to replenish the electrolyte. Ordinary tap water can be used in an emergency, but minerals in tap water contaminate the electrolyte, reducing performance and shortening battery life. I have read you can sometimes reclaim badly sulfated batteries by adding a water containing 10% magnesium sulfate (epsom salts). It didn't work for me when I tried it, but the batteries I treid it on were in REALLY bad condition.
Never let your batteries stay discharged any longer than necessary. Batteries deteriorate faster when they are discharged and they are likely to freeze and crack in cold climates. Fully charged batteries are protected against freezing down to at least -75°F. Even a partially discharged battery will freeze at much warmer temperatures. A good multi-stage battery charger is the best way to keep your batteries properly charged in storage. The basic charger circuit on most standard 12-volt converters supplies only a constant modest voltage that does not adequately address all the functions required to keep a battery in good condition. Converters do well at their primary job: converting 120 volt AC to 12 volt DC to power 12 volt fixtures and appliances in your RV. Their battery-charging circuits don't usually perform as well. Sometimes the charging circuit -- or the circuit board that controls the charging circuit -- fails and delivers an incorrect voltage to the batteries. I once had a faulty converter that was delivering 18+ volts to the batteries. Before I discovered the cause of the problem I was having to add water to my coach batteries at least once a week and the batteries were quickly destroyed and had to be replaced. The high voltage was literally boiling the electrolyte away and cooking the batteries! I called the converter manufacturer and confirmed that the charging voltage was way out of spec. The technician suggested I disconnect the charging circuit in the converter and use an external automatic battery charger as a less expensive and more effective solution than upgrading or even repairing the charger in the converter. I did that for a while, then replaced then entire converter with an Intelli-charger converter with the Charge Wizard. The Charge Wizard senses the battery condition and adjusts the charging voltage accordingly. It even periodically supplies an appropriately high voltage to burn off sulfates that accumulate on the lead plates and can short out the cells. I've heard user reports that this configuration has actually reclaimed badly sulfated batteries. I have used the Intelli-charger and Charge Wizard in three different motorhomes over the last 10-12 years with excellent results. The setup is 2-3 times the cost of a standard converter but to me it was worth it. We were doing a lot of dry camping in remote areas and needed full battery capacity to make it through long weekends in the desert. Replacing the existing converter is a fairly simple task that can be done by most do-it-yourselfers. Take care to note the original wiring and make the new connections correctly. Many converters simply plug into a 120-volt outlet for their shore power and have a simple 2-wire connection to the coach wiring. If the old converter is wired directly into the 120-volt system, take care to connect the wires correctly. 120-volt systems usually have black wire for "hot" and a white one for neutral with a bare copper or green insulated wire for ground but verify the configuration before connecting your converter. Some converters have built-in 12-volt circuit boards with fuses and you will have to be careful about re-connecting each circuit to an appropriately sized fuse in the new panel. It is not a particularly difficult task, but is can be tedious and requires some attention to detail. Be sure to label the old wires as you disconnect them. If you have any concerns about doing it yourself, have it installed by a qualified electrician or RV technician. Maintaining connections to similarly labeled fuses is a good idea, but it is more important to make sure you match the fuse size for each circuit. Connecting to a lower amp fuse will result in blowing the fuse. Connecting to a higher amp fuse may allow the wiring to overheat before the fuse blows possibly damaging equipment or starting a fire. The fuse sizes have been chosen for important reasons, so pay attention. NEVER replace a fuse with a solid connector just to get things going. You may cause the wiring in the circuit to overheat and cause a fire. ALWAYS replace fuses with the same size and type of fuse. Some folks "solve" a problem on a circuit that frequently blows a fuse by putting in a higher amperage fuse. NOT a good idea! The higher amp fuse will allow more current to flow and may result in the wiring getting hot, shorting out, and causing a fire. If you frequently blow a fuse, you need to inspect the wiring and evaluate the load on that circuit to determine why it is blowing. Putting too many devices on one circuit or using high-amp devices on low-amp circuits can cause fuses to blow. Damaged wiring that is shorting out may be the cause and should be repaired or replaced. Sometimes the problem is on the ground connection for fixtures or appliances so be sure to check all ground wires too.
Battery connections. Another component that requires regular attention are the battery connections. There are problems that commonly occur and can be easily detected and corrected. One is loose connections. All connections, both at the battery terminals and at the other end of the cables should be tight and clean. A second problem is corrosion. The out-gassing that occurs during charging can deposit acid on the battery connections causing them to corrode. A good way to make sure your connections are clean and secure is to remove them and clean the battery posts and the terminals. You can sometimes do this with a simple wire brush, but it is easier and more effective to use a special battery terminal brush available at any auto parts store. These typically have a tapered wire brush for cleaning the inside of the terminals and a hollow, "female" brush on the other end for cleaning the battery posts. Observe the direction of the bristles on the brushes and turn them the same way they are already pointed so they drag rather than dig into the soft lead of the terminals and posts, which damages both the terminals and the brush. Use a commercial battery cleaner spray or ordinary baking soda and water to remove corrosion and neutralize the acid before reconnecting the terminals. If the terminals are severely corroded or cannot be tightened securely you should replace the cables or at least the terminals. I prefer replacing the cables since the terminals are usually molded into the cable. Replacement battery terminals are less expensive but since they are made of steel and lead, the bi-metal connection to the copper cables tend to speed corrosion. If you have a motorhome you will normally have two different battery banks: one for the engine and one for the coach. The engine battery is normally located in or near the engine compartment. The coach batteries are usually located in an exterior cabinet or underneath the entry step. Be sure to maintain ALL the batteries in good condition. If you have two or more batteries in any battery bank and one fails, you need to replace all the batteries at the same time. Older batteries, even if they appear to be in good condition, will drain new ones and reduce the overall performance and longevity. Because the charging resistance in a new battery is different than an old one they require different charging voltages and the demand of older batteries will have a negative affect on charging the new batteries. Be sure to install your new batteries correctly. If you are simply replacing a pair of 12-volt deep cycle RV batteries or a pair of 6-volt golf cart batteries with similar batteries, be sure to maintain the original connections. Usually, but not always, the positive lead is red and the negative lead is black. Pay attention to the leads when you disconnect the old batteries and if they do not conform to this standard, label them to avoid any problems in reconnection them to the new batteries. Multiple 12-volt batteries must be wired in parallel -- both grounds connected to the vehicle ground, both positive terminals connected to the 12-volt feed to the coach. 6-volt golf cart batteries must be wired in series: connect one ground to the vehicle ground and the positive terminal from that battery to the negative terminal of the second battery. Then connect the positive terminal of the second battery to the 12-volt feed to the coach. Connecting them in series is how they provide 12-volt power. Converting from 2 12-volt RV batteries to 2 6-volt golf cart batteries will usually give you more power, better performance, and longer battery life than two 12-volt batteries, and it is easy to do -- if you follow the directions for connecting the 6-volt batteries in series, which means you will need an extra cable to connect the two batteries together. The connector should be at least the same gauge as the battery cables.
Increasing battery capacity. If you run out of power during dry-camping trips you many need to increase your battery capacity. The simplest way to do this is to get a bigger, more powerful battery. However, most RV deep cycle batteries are already the size of Group 27 car batteries and are already maxed out. If that is the case you'll need to add batteries. If you have a Group 24 battery and have room for a Group 27, that would be an easy and fairly inexpensive upgrade. You can also add one or more additional 12-volt deep cycle batteries, wired in parallel with the exiting battery. The best time to update your battery capacity is when you have to replace a battery. You don't want to mix batteries of different types or ages in the same battery bank. They need to be matched or else they'll drain each other or cause charging problems where some batteries are over charged and some are undercharged due to the differences in internal resistance. The best way to increase battery capacity is to use 6-volt golf cart batteries, with pairs wired in series to create 12-volts. These batteries have more capacity than 12-volt deep cycle batteries and are designed to take the heavy loads and frequent deep discharging and charging necessary to operate golf carts. A pair of 6-volt golf cart batteries will take up about the same space as a pair of 12-volt deep cycle RV batteries, but will deliver much better performance. Make sure you wire them in series. That means wiring the positive terminal of one battery to the negative terminal of the other, then treating the two batteries together as if they were one big 12-volt battery. If you are upgrading from two 12-volt batteries to two 6-volt batteries, you will need an extra cable to connect the two batteries together. The original RV wiring is usually designed for the parallel connections needed when using two 12-volt batteries and would be connected with the hot to the positive terminal of one battery and the ground to the negative terminal of the other when using 6-volt batteries.
There is nothing mystical or scary about RV battery systems. A little regular and simple care will keep them in good condition and allow you to get the most out of them. But ignore them, and you will eventually reap the rewards of cold nights when the batteries get too low to run the furnace and/or the expense of replacing dead batteries before their time. If, even after good maintenance, your batteries fail to deliver sufficient power, review your charging procedures to make sure you are charging them adequately between uses. If the batteries fail to hold a charge, they will need to be replaced. If you are running a single battery to power your coach and frequently run out of power, you may have to find a place to install a second battery to meet the demands you are placing on your battery system. If there isn't room for an additional battery near the existing one, make sure the second battery is installed in a place where it is vented to the outside and connect the batteries using heavy-duty battery cable, typically "0000" gauge. You may have to go to a welding supply store to find heavy enough cable or you might find heavy duty jumper cables that will be sufficient. Smaller wiring will diminish performance and create a potential fire hazard. 12 volt DC electrical systems are safe to touch. You won't get a shock like you do from your 120 volt household circuits but if you short out the hot wire you will get sparks or melt wires.
Keeping your batteries charged. We usually give little thought to charging the batteries on our daily driver vehicles because driving them charges the batteries without us having to do anything special. But RVs or tow vehicles that get infrequent use need external battery charges to maintain the batteries between trips. Battery Tender is a very popular brand. You may need two separate chargers for a motorhome: one for the starting battery and a second one for the coach battery bank -- unless you buy a multi-bank charger. I use a generic battery tender on my starting battery and take advantage of the superior charging capabilities of my Intelli-charger converter with Charge Wizard to maintain my coach battery bank. There are chargers designed to handle multiple battery banks but it is probably less expensive to just put separate chargers on each bank. I like to install my chargers so they are active whenever there is 120-volt power available in the coach -- from shore power or from the on board generator. That way I don't have to think about plugging in the charger in camp or before I store my coach between trips. Be aware of adding chargers if there is already a charger built into the converter. Using multiple chargers at the same time may conflict with each other and produce unpredictable and undesireable results.
Solar battery charging is a an easy and free way to keep your batteries topped off -- once you buy the solar panels and charging system. Small chargers that will help keep fully charged batteries fully charged in storage where they're not getting heavy use are not terribly expensive. I've see them under $20. They are about the size of the top of a carton of eggs and about 1/2" thick. They plug in to the cigarette lighter in your vehicle and are normally placed on the dashboard. They are not powerful enough to recharge depleted batteries or power equipment or lights. Large solar panels can be mounted on the roof of your RV and with enough panels and controllers can charge depleted batteries and run some 12-volt lights and appliances. But solar systems of these size are not cheap. Expect to pay in the neighborhood of $300 for a start up configuration. Large solar arrays can be very helpful when boondocking and using inverter power. And the electricity is free -- once you've re-couped the setup cost -- saving you fuel cost for running your generator. Solar power is especially useful on boats if you don't have 120 volt power at the dock to recharge your batteries.
You can charge batteries using your on board generator, but most experts say it is faster and more efficient to use the vehicle alternator. Some portable generators have a 12-volt battery charging circuit built in. I have a small, 850 watt generator that does. It generally isn't powerful enough to run mainline 120-volt appliances but it is a pretty good alternative for emergency battery charging when boondocking. If you can get your hands on an old Army hand-crank generator, or bicycle pedal generator, they could be used to charge batteries too. They used to be available in Army Surplus stores, but these days they may be hard to come by. I did find a pedal generator on Amazon.com for about $200. You might build your own using an automobile alternator. Use one with a built-in voltage regulator and you should be able to wire it directly to your batteries for charging. Then you just need to rig up a crank and pulley to drive the alternator. I've also seen plans for building your own wind powered generators using an automobile alternator, but designing and building the blades is probably beyond the time and effort most of us are willing and able to invest in such a project. Plus transporting the blades and tower and setup in camp is cumbersome and wind is unpredictable.
Proper battery maintenance will ensure you get best possible performance and longevity from your RV batteries.
Charge!
An old rule of thumb says batteries should be replaced about every 3 years, but "your mileage may vary". Newer battery technology seems to have extended the life of some batteries. Lack of maintenance and abuse will significantly shorten battery life. Proper maintenance and usage can prolong it. If your batteries are three or more years older and are not delivering the performance you expect, it may be time to replace them -- or at least take them down and get them tested. Of course, the quality and original rating of the battery are also significant factors. So what constitutes abuse and what is proper maintenance? Abusing your batteries consists of not keeping them properly charged, frequently running them way down, letting the connections become loose or corroded, or letting the electrolyte levels fall below normal. Some batteries are promoted as "maintenance free". Gas-mat type batteries really are, but if they are wet-cell, lead-acid batteries, you still need to pry off the caps and check the electrolyte level occasionally. Most batteries have a fluid level indicator built into the fill opening and fluid should be maintained at that level. You need to more than just barely cover the plates and less than filling to the top of the opening. Typically there should always be about 1/2" of electrolyte above the plates. Under filling will result in low electrolyte and shorten battery life. Low electrolyte exposes the plates and can lead to immediate sulfation which quickly destroys the battery. Over filling will result in excess boiling and off-gassing and may pop the filler caps off and spew acid when the battery is being charged. Add only distilled water to top off batteries. Ordinary tap water or even bottled water contains contaminants that will reduce power and shorten battery life so it should used sparingly and only in emergencies. I have seen battery additives that are advertised to prolong battery life and restore functionality. They may be worth trying if you have batteries that are in bad shape. It is a good idea to verify electrolyte levels as part of your routine pre-trip checklist and about once a month when your RV is in storage. It is a tedious task, but well worth it considering the inconvenience in camp and the cost of replacing dead batteries.
The starting battery for a motorhome or boat is usually located in or near the engine compartment. House batteries could be located just about anywhere. Sometimes they are also housed in the engine compartment but moreoften they are in a separate compartment, often under the entry step, dinette, or near the generator. Some motorhomes have a dedicated starting battery for the generator. When I had one like that I replaced the generator starting battery with an extra 12 volt deep cycle battery and wired it in parallel with the existing coach battery to give me more power for lights, furnace, etc. in camp and extra power for starting the generator. Many motorhomes use the coach batteries for starting the generator. When all the batteries are located under the hood it is a good idea to check to see what is connected to each battery bank. I once bought a motorhome with all the batteries under the hood and was very surprised when I discovered the starter was connected to the coach batteries instead of the starting battery! Trying to jump start the vehicle with jumper cables on the starting battery didn't really do much good.
Checking the status of your batteries. It is pretty obvious our batteries have run down when we can no longer start our vehicles or when the lights in our RVs are dim or the furnace won't run. Many RVs have a battery gauge that gives you some idea of the battery condition. These little gauges are essentially volt meters marked to give you an easy to read indication of the status of the batteries. To really know the state of your batteries you need to test the actual voltage or measure the specific gravity of the electrolyte in the battery. A fully charged 12 volt battery should have a voltage around 13.6 volts. You may get a higher reading if the batteries have been recently charged (like driving the vehicle). That is what is known as a "surface charge". Charging voltage while the alternator is operating will be 14-15 volts. Higher charging voltages, like the 18 volts I discovered coming from a failing RV converter will cause the batteries to boil and eventually "fry" them. Anything below 11.6 volts is fully discharged. You need a battery hydrometer to measure specific gravity. This is a device that draws a little electrolyte out of the cells. Some hydrometers may be calibrated so you can read the specific gravity but most of the ones I've seen in auto parts stores contain a number of different colored balls. You determine the specific gravity by observing which balls are floating or counting the number of balls that are floating. You can't check the specific gravity of the electrolyte in sealed batteries. Avoid discharging your batteries below 80% or 10.5 volts. Doing so can permanently damage batteries. Maintain the proper electrolyte level. Most batteries have a built in indicator that makes the electrolyte form a dome when the right level is reached in the opening. If you don't see one, fill to about 1/4" below the bottom of the fill hole or about 1/2" to 3/4" above the plates. NEVER let the electrolyte level drop below the top of the plates as that contributes to fast sulfation of the exposed surfaces. Use distilled water to replenish the electrolyte. Ordinary tap water can be used in an emergency, but minerals in tap water contaminate the electrolyte, reducing performance and shortening battery life. I have read you can sometimes reclaim badly sulfated batteries by adding a water containing 10% magnesium sulfate (epsom salts). It didn't work for me when I tried it, but the batteries I treid it on were in REALLY bad condition.
Never let your batteries stay discharged any longer than necessary. Batteries deteriorate faster when they are discharged and they are likely to freeze and crack in cold climates. Fully charged batteries are protected against freezing down to at least -75°F. Even a partially discharged battery will freeze at much warmer temperatures. A good multi-stage battery charger is the best way to keep your batteries properly charged in storage. The basic charger circuit on most standard 12-volt converters supplies only a constant modest voltage that does not adequately address all the functions required to keep a battery in good condition. Converters do well at their primary job: converting 120 volt AC to 12 volt DC to power 12 volt fixtures and appliances in your RV. Their battery-charging circuits don't usually perform as well. Sometimes the charging circuit -- or the circuit board that controls the charging circuit -- fails and delivers an incorrect voltage to the batteries. I once had a faulty converter that was delivering 18+ volts to the batteries. Before I discovered the cause of the problem I was having to add water to my coach batteries at least once a week and the batteries were quickly destroyed and had to be replaced. The high voltage was literally boiling the electrolyte away and cooking the batteries! I called the converter manufacturer and confirmed that the charging voltage was way out of spec. The technician suggested I disconnect the charging circuit in the converter and use an external automatic battery charger as a less expensive and more effective solution than upgrading or even repairing the charger in the converter. I did that for a while, then replaced then entire converter with an Intelli-charger converter with the Charge Wizard. The Charge Wizard senses the battery condition and adjusts the charging voltage accordingly. It even periodically supplies an appropriately high voltage to burn off sulfates that accumulate on the lead plates and can short out the cells. I've heard user reports that this configuration has actually reclaimed badly sulfated batteries. I have used the Intelli-charger and Charge Wizard in three different motorhomes over the last 10-12 years with excellent results. The setup is 2-3 times the cost of a standard converter but to me it was worth it. We were doing a lot of dry camping in remote areas and needed full battery capacity to make it through long weekends in the desert. Replacing the existing converter is a fairly simple task that can be done by most do-it-yourselfers. Take care to note the original wiring and make the new connections correctly. Many converters simply plug into a 120-volt outlet for their shore power and have a simple 2-wire connection to the coach wiring. If the old converter is wired directly into the 120-volt system, take care to connect the wires correctly. 120-volt systems usually have black wire for "hot" and a white one for neutral with a bare copper or green insulated wire for ground but verify the configuration before connecting your converter. Some converters have built-in 12-volt circuit boards with fuses and you will have to be careful about re-connecting each circuit to an appropriately sized fuse in the new panel. It is not a particularly difficult task, but is can be tedious and requires some attention to detail. Be sure to label the old wires as you disconnect them. If you have any concerns about doing it yourself, have it installed by a qualified electrician or RV technician. Maintaining connections to similarly labeled fuses is a good idea, but it is more important to make sure you match the fuse size for each circuit. Connecting to a lower amp fuse will result in blowing the fuse. Connecting to a higher amp fuse may allow the wiring to overheat before the fuse blows possibly damaging equipment or starting a fire. The fuse sizes have been chosen for important reasons, so pay attention. NEVER replace a fuse with a solid connector just to get things going. You may cause the wiring in the circuit to overheat and cause a fire. ALWAYS replace fuses with the same size and type of fuse. Some folks "solve" a problem on a circuit that frequently blows a fuse by putting in a higher amperage fuse. NOT a good idea! The higher amp fuse will allow more current to flow and may result in the wiring getting hot, shorting out, and causing a fire. If you frequently blow a fuse, you need to inspect the wiring and evaluate the load on that circuit to determine why it is blowing. Putting too many devices on one circuit or using high-amp devices on low-amp circuits can cause fuses to blow. Damaged wiring that is shorting out may be the cause and should be repaired or replaced. Sometimes the problem is on the ground connection for fixtures or appliances so be sure to check all ground wires too.
Battery connections. Another component that requires regular attention are the battery connections. There are problems that commonly occur and can be easily detected and corrected. One is loose connections. All connections, both at the battery terminals and at the other end of the cables should be tight and clean. A second problem is corrosion. The out-gassing that occurs during charging can deposit acid on the battery connections causing them to corrode. A good way to make sure your connections are clean and secure is to remove them and clean the battery posts and the terminals. You can sometimes do this with a simple wire brush, but it is easier and more effective to use a special battery terminal brush available at any auto parts store. These typically have a tapered wire brush for cleaning the inside of the terminals and a hollow, "female" brush on the other end for cleaning the battery posts. Observe the direction of the bristles on the brushes and turn them the same way they are already pointed so they drag rather than dig into the soft lead of the terminals and posts, which damages both the terminals and the brush. Use a commercial battery cleaner spray or ordinary baking soda and water to remove corrosion and neutralize the acid before reconnecting the terminals. If the terminals are severely corroded or cannot be tightened securely you should replace the cables or at least the terminals. I prefer replacing the cables since the terminals are usually molded into the cable. Replacement battery terminals are less expensive but since they are made of steel and lead, the bi-metal connection to the copper cables tend to speed corrosion. If you have a motorhome you will normally have two different battery banks: one for the engine and one for the coach. The engine battery is normally located in or near the engine compartment. The coach batteries are usually located in an exterior cabinet or underneath the entry step. Be sure to maintain ALL the batteries in good condition. If you have two or more batteries in any battery bank and one fails, you need to replace all the batteries at the same time. Older batteries, even if they appear to be in good condition, will drain new ones and reduce the overall performance and longevity. Because the charging resistance in a new battery is different than an old one they require different charging voltages and the demand of older batteries will have a negative affect on charging the new batteries. Be sure to install your new batteries correctly. If you are simply replacing a pair of 12-volt deep cycle RV batteries or a pair of 6-volt golf cart batteries with similar batteries, be sure to maintain the original connections. Usually, but not always, the positive lead is red and the negative lead is black. Pay attention to the leads when you disconnect the old batteries and if they do not conform to this standard, label them to avoid any problems in reconnection them to the new batteries. Multiple 12-volt batteries must be wired in parallel -- both grounds connected to the vehicle ground, both positive terminals connected to the 12-volt feed to the coach. 6-volt golf cart batteries must be wired in series: connect one ground to the vehicle ground and the positive terminal from that battery to the negative terminal of the second battery. Then connect the positive terminal of the second battery to the 12-volt feed to the coach. Connecting them in series is how they provide 12-volt power. Converting from 2 12-volt RV batteries to 2 6-volt golf cart batteries will usually give you more power, better performance, and longer battery life than two 12-volt batteries, and it is easy to do -- if you follow the directions for connecting the 6-volt batteries in series, which means you will need an extra cable to connect the two batteries together. The connector should be at least the same gauge as the battery cables.
Increasing battery capacity. If you run out of power during dry-camping trips you many need to increase your battery capacity. The simplest way to do this is to get a bigger, more powerful battery. However, most RV deep cycle batteries are already the size of Group 27 car batteries and are already maxed out. If that is the case you'll need to add batteries. If you have a Group 24 battery and have room for a Group 27, that would be an easy and fairly inexpensive upgrade. You can also add one or more additional 12-volt deep cycle batteries, wired in parallel with the exiting battery. The best time to update your battery capacity is when you have to replace a battery. You don't want to mix batteries of different types or ages in the same battery bank. They need to be matched or else they'll drain each other or cause charging problems where some batteries are over charged and some are undercharged due to the differences in internal resistance. The best way to increase battery capacity is to use 6-volt golf cart batteries, with pairs wired in series to create 12-volts. These batteries have more capacity than 12-volt deep cycle batteries and are designed to take the heavy loads and frequent deep discharging and charging necessary to operate golf carts. A pair of 6-volt golf cart batteries will take up about the same space as a pair of 12-volt deep cycle RV batteries, but will deliver much better performance. Make sure you wire them in series. That means wiring the positive terminal of one battery to the negative terminal of the other, then treating the two batteries together as if they were one big 12-volt battery. If you are upgrading from two 12-volt batteries to two 6-volt batteries, you will need an extra cable to connect the two batteries together. The original RV wiring is usually designed for the parallel connections needed when using two 12-volt batteries and would be connected with the hot to the positive terminal of one battery and the ground to the negative terminal of the other when using 6-volt batteries.
There is nothing mystical or scary about RV battery systems. A little regular and simple care will keep them in good condition and allow you to get the most out of them. But ignore them, and you will eventually reap the rewards of cold nights when the batteries get too low to run the furnace and/or the expense of replacing dead batteries before their time. If, even after good maintenance, your batteries fail to deliver sufficient power, review your charging procedures to make sure you are charging them adequately between uses. If the batteries fail to hold a charge, they will need to be replaced. If you are running a single battery to power your coach and frequently run out of power, you may have to find a place to install a second battery to meet the demands you are placing on your battery system. If there isn't room for an additional battery near the existing one, make sure the second battery is installed in a place where it is vented to the outside and connect the batteries using heavy-duty battery cable, typically "0000" gauge. You may have to go to a welding supply store to find heavy enough cable or you might find heavy duty jumper cables that will be sufficient. Smaller wiring will diminish performance and create a potential fire hazard. 12 volt DC electrical systems are safe to touch. You won't get a shock like you do from your 120 volt household circuits but if you short out the hot wire you will get sparks or melt wires.
Keeping your batteries charged. We usually give little thought to charging the batteries on our daily driver vehicles because driving them charges the batteries without us having to do anything special. But RVs or tow vehicles that get infrequent use need external battery charges to maintain the batteries between trips. Battery Tender is a very popular brand. You may need two separate chargers for a motorhome: one for the starting battery and a second one for the coach battery bank -- unless you buy a multi-bank charger. I use a generic battery tender on my starting battery and take advantage of the superior charging capabilities of my Intelli-charger converter with Charge Wizard to maintain my coach battery bank. There are chargers designed to handle multiple battery banks but it is probably less expensive to just put separate chargers on each bank. I like to install my chargers so they are active whenever there is 120-volt power available in the coach -- from shore power or from the on board generator. That way I don't have to think about plugging in the charger in camp or before I store my coach between trips. Be aware of adding chargers if there is already a charger built into the converter. Using multiple chargers at the same time may conflict with each other and produce unpredictable and undesireable results.
Solar battery charging is a an easy and free way to keep your batteries topped off -- once you buy the solar panels and charging system. Small chargers that will help keep fully charged batteries fully charged in storage where they're not getting heavy use are not terribly expensive. I've see them under $20. They are about the size of the top of a carton of eggs and about 1/2" thick. They plug in to the cigarette lighter in your vehicle and are normally placed on the dashboard. They are not powerful enough to recharge depleted batteries or power equipment or lights. Large solar panels can be mounted on the roof of your RV and with enough panels and controllers can charge depleted batteries and run some 12-volt lights and appliances. But solar systems of these size are not cheap. Expect to pay in the neighborhood of $300 for a start up configuration. Large solar arrays can be very helpful when boondocking and using inverter power. And the electricity is free -- once you've re-couped the setup cost -- saving you fuel cost for running your generator. Solar power is especially useful on boats if you don't have 120 volt power at the dock to recharge your batteries.
You can charge batteries using your on board generator, but most experts say it is faster and more efficient to use the vehicle alternator. Some portable generators have a 12-volt battery charging circuit built in. I have a small, 850 watt generator that does. It generally isn't powerful enough to run mainline 120-volt appliances but it is a pretty good alternative for emergency battery charging when boondocking. If you can get your hands on an old Army hand-crank generator, or bicycle pedal generator, they could be used to charge batteries too. They used to be available in Army Surplus stores, but these days they may be hard to come by. I did find a pedal generator on Amazon.com for about $200. You might build your own using an automobile alternator. Use one with a built-in voltage regulator and you should be able to wire it directly to your batteries for charging. Then you just need to rig up a crank and pulley to drive the alternator. I've also seen plans for building your own wind powered generators using an automobile alternator, but designing and building the blades is probably beyond the time and effort most of us are willing and able to invest in such a project. Plus transporting the blades and tower and setup in camp is cumbersome and wind is unpredictable.
Proper battery maintenance will ensure you get best possible performance and longevity from your RV batteries.
Charge!
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