Outdoor Cooking Options

One of the fun things about camping is not being a slave to the stove and oven to prepare your meals. Outdoor cooking can be fun and exciting. Sometimes preparing meals that are routine at home can be a fun and stimulating adventure in camp. My wife and daughter-in-law were giddy as two school girls as they prepared breakfast on our trusty Coleman stove when we went tent camping a while back.  And they weren't experimenting with new dishes, just regular breakfast favorites.  But cooking outdoors, in camp, together, made it special.  There are many options for outdoor cooking, depending on where you are (open fires are prohibited in some places  and at some times) and how adventurous you want to be. Successfully making your favorite repast in the outdoors yields a special feeling of accomplishment. Heck, even being able to pull it off within the limitations of an RV rates a pat on the back. Outdoor cooking skills can be very useful in an emergency situation at home, such as an extended power outage or natural disaster. Ever think about what you will do if a disaster knocks out utilities in your neighborhood for a couple of weeks? If you have been using your camping trips to practice survival skills, you will at least be able to build a fire to warm you and your family, cook your meals, dry your clothing and bedding, and sterilize water for drinking and medical uses. You may purchase portable stoves for emergency use, but unless you've practiced using them, they are likely to be useless or even dangerous in a disaster situation. There is an old adage that I've found to be true:  If it hasn't been tested, it doesn't work!  Be sure you know how to use any emergency equipment you purchase and take time to practice using it. Also make sure you have proper fuel that is safely stored.

Campfire cooking. Of course cooking over an open campfire is the most basic form of outdoor cooking. Most all of us have roasted a few hot dogs and set a few marshmallows on fire this way (in my experience one seldom roasts marshmallows without turning them into torches).  One of the advantages to campfire cooking is that you don't need a lot of fancy equipment and, unless open fires are prohibited, you can build a campfire just about anywhere. Campfire cooking is also a good skill to develop for use following a disaster that may leave you without utilities at home. You may want to practice building a campfire and cooking in your own back yard until you're comfortable with the skills. Check out my previous post on Campfire Safety for more ideas on safely building and using campfires. As mentioned above, campfires are also sources of warmth and comfort and can help us dry out wet clothing and bedding. Having dry clothing and bedding could mean not only being more comfortable, but could literally mean the difference between life and death in a survival situation! It is possible to get hypothermia from wet clothing even in fairly mild weather.  The light and heat of a campfire not only warms the body, it warms the soul and lifts the spirits. As human beings, we find comfort in warmth and light and are often mesmerized by flames. Just sitting around a campfire can be entertaining and can lift depressed spirits enough to be functional again. Cooking over a campfire can be done by putting food on sticks (like hot dogs, chunks of meat, or even thick dough to make bread). For more conventional options, put a grid or grill over the fire and cook in regular pans. Lacking a grill you can position a couple of green logs over the coals or build a fire between them and rest your pans across them.  It is convenient to put the logs about 3" apart at one end and 8-10" apart at the other.  Then you can put your coffee pot or tea kettle on the narrow end and your frying pan on the wider portion.  Cast iron cookware can be used directly on the fire, lighter weight vessels may be damaged if place directly on the coals. I've seen light weight aluminum pans reduced to bubbling silver puddles by a hot campfire.  For best results, wait until the fire is reduced to a nice bed of glowing coals before cooking. It is safer and more effective than trying to cook over open flames. Even though you may have to wait longer for to coals to reach the right stage, things will cook faster and more evenly than they will over the flickering  flames.  And you can actually roast marshmallows to a nice golden brown without setting them on fire!  Campfires are sometimes prohibited in suburban neighborhoods, but cooking fires are usually allowed and during a significant disaster situation all rules are likely to be suspended or relaxed. If you do build a fire, do it correctly and safely so you don't add to the existing emergency.

You can cook other things besides hot dogs and marshmallows on a stick over your campfire. Just about any kind of raw meat (except ground meats) can be hung on a stick for cooking. You can also bake breads by mixing the dough so it is thick and sticky and wrapping some around a stick. Called "twist sticks", they are a very tasty bread treat for camping. No matter what you are cooking this way, it is best to cook over a bed of glowing coals, not over open flames. Most of us don't have the patience to wait for the fire to reach the right status for cooking, which is one reason so many marshmallows light up the night, becoming more torch than treat. Cooking over coals provides even heat that, with a little practice, allows you to roast your feast to perfection without turning it into a flaming torch or burnt offering -- or have it burned on the outside and raw in the middle! Take time to build the right kind of fire and let it reach the right stage of coals for cooking. It will pay off. Another option for bread is ash cakes. To make them, prepare a thick dough and form it into biscuit-sized patties. Then drop it directly on glowing coals or hot rocks in the fire to bake it, flipping it over once to cook both sides if the tops don't cook fast enough. A little ash may cling to the biscuit when it is done, but usually not very much and you can just brush it off and enjoy great tasting hot bread fresh from the fire. They are especially good with butter and honey or jam.  You can even churn your own butter from whipping cream if you're feeling particularly adventurous.  Place some small pebbles (marble size or less) into a small container with a 1/4 to 1/2 cup whipping cream and shake until it forms butter.  Avoid using a glass container, but if you have to don't shake it too hard or the pebbles will break the glass!

Not exactly a stick, but a useful campfire cooker is a pie cooker. These long-handled clam shell cookers turn two pieces of bread and a couple of spoons of pie filling into a hot tasty pie. It surprised me how much the bread tasted like pie crust when we took them out.  There are many commercial forks made for cooking hot dogs and marshmallows but an ordinary wire coat hanger straightened out will work almost as well. Some of the commercial forks have have telescoping handles so you adjust them to cook the food and not your front.  I've seen some with the tines bent around so they point back at you.   Supposedly they reduce the risk of stabbing someone with them.

Of course, there are things you can't cook on a stick. Soups, stews, hot water for coffee, tea, hot chocolate, and purifying drinking water, medical purposes and washing dishes, requires a pot of some sort. If you plan to prepare these items often, a metal grate would be helpful. The grate from on old BBQ will work. You can also buy cooking grates most anywhere camping supplies are sold. Or just buy some sturdy metal grating like expanded metal from a hardware store or metal supply store. In an emergency or survival mode you may be able to use green sticks to support your frying pan or pots. Just keep an eye on them to make sure they don't catch fire and let your dinner drop into the fire! In an real emergency you might steal the racks out of your oven or refrigerator to use as cooking grids. Another technique is it bury a flat rock in the middle of your fire.  Make sure it isn't very porous.  Porous rocks often contain moisture and will explode when heated.  Then, after the rock has been heated by the fire, brush away the burned wood, set your pot or pan on the rock, and build the coals up around the pot on the rock or cook foods directly on the rock. This approach requires patience and planning ahead and cooking will probably take longer than cooking on a grid directly over the coals. You may also be able to carefully position rocks to support your pots and pans. If you have cast-iron cookware, you can even cook directly on the coals. DO NOT try this with light weight aluminum cookware unless you WANT to see it puddle in the coals while your dinner oozes and steams away! Lacking real cookware, you may be able to improvise temporary cooking containers using ordinary tin cans. They won't stand up to extended use, but you can usually heat up stew or chili in its original can and may be able to re-use the can several times before it begins to burn through. If you don't have any pots or pans at all you may be able to cook fish or pieces of meat on a "frying pan" made of green branches. Start with a forked flexible stick and form the ends of the two branches into an oval. The final shape should look kind of like a tennis racket. Then weave sticks up and down and across the oval. Attach your fish or meat by lacing extra branches over it and cook it to perfection. In a survival situation you may not have any pots or pans. You can make a bowl out of clay or even ordinary mud and fill it with water, soup or stew, then add small hot rocks one at a time until it reaches the desired temperature.

Building the right kind of campfire is critical to successful cooking.  As always, you don't want a bigger fire than you need.  Trying to cook on a raging bonfire is not fun at all.  Any minimal success is likely be tainted by food that is charred on the outside and raw in the middle.  And you're likely to roast your own skin about as much as you do the meal you're trying to prepare.  A really good fire for cooking is a Daktoa Fire Pit. This is one of the most efficient cooking fires ever. Some tricks for cooking on a regular campfire include laying two green logs across the coals.  Place them so they're not quite parallel, but have one end about 3" apart and the other end about 7" apart.  Place your coffee pot or tea kettle on the narrow end and cook in larger pats and frying pants on the wider end.  You can also use rocks to support your pans and, sometimes, you can cook directly on the heated rocks if you need to slow cook something.  Heated rocks are a good spot for baking bread.

Dutch oven cooking is popular among many camping enthusiasts. It can be done over a campfire, but is usually done using charcoal briquettes for better temperature control and more even heat. Dutch ovens are the old fashioned version of today's "crock pot" cookers. You can cook just about any thing in a dutch oven: main courses, breads, even cakes and other tasty deserts. Traditional dutch ovens are made of cast iron and are nearly indestructible. Today there are modern aluminum versions which are lighter to carry, but most campers still prefer the venerable cast iron ovens. You can fill them with goodies and let them simmer just about all day for a tender and tasty evening repast. Cast iron dutch ovens need to be "seasoned" before they can be used. This puts a coating of what is essentially burned cooking oil on the surface. This prevents rust, helps keep foods from sticking, and adds a unique flavor to meals. Cleaning a dutch oven mostly consists of scraping away the residual foods with a plastic scraper and wiping it down with paper towels or crumpled newspaper. NEVER use soap or detergent to clean a dutch oven. It will destroy the seasoning and leave a residue that may contaminate your food and give it an awful taste and possibly give you a case of the runs! There are many good web sites that give dutch oven cooking tips and recipes. If someone washes your dutch oven with soap, rinse it thoroughly and re-season it before using it again.

Emergency pots. If you find yourself without anything to cook in, you may still be able to boil water using hot rocks. Form a kind of bowl out of leaves or mud or hollow out a piece of wood -- or use a canvas bag -- anything that will hold water. Fill it with water. Place several small rocks (up to golf ball size) in your fire until they are hot. Then drop them into the water. Keep adding rocks (you may have to remove some of the cooler rocks so your bowl doesn't overflow) until the water reaches the desired temperature. If you have any canned goods, you can usually heat them in their original cans (be sure to open the can or at least punch some holes in the top before putting it in the fire. Otherwise, it might explode! Empty cans can be used for boiling water or preparing other foods. They can also come in handy for collecting water and capturing fish and game for food. You might yank the metal headlight "pan" off an disabled OHV and use it for a cooking pot.  I've even seen demonstrations of boiling water in a paper cup!  As long as there's water in the cup it keeps the paper from reaching its ignition point, but trying to use it over an open flame may cause the paper to overheat and ignite anyway.

In a survival situation you probably won't have any cooking pots.  You might be able to carve a bowl out of wood or make one of clay or even ordinary mud.  Then you can drop hot rocks into the water or other liquids in the bowl to heat them.

The Famous R2D2. An alternative to open campfires that is sometimes permitted even when open fires are prohibited is what our family calls "R2D2". R2D2 is an old washing machine tub we sometimes use for a fire pit. We've even had forest rangers borrow our R2D2 on windy nights. A tub from a dryer might work too.  They're usually larger, letting you build a bigger fire but making them more difficult to transport.  The perforations in either tub (not all dry tubs are perforated) allow plenty of ventilation yet restrict the wind from scattering embers the way it can from an open fire.  The porcelain coating stands up to the heat and prevents rust. Most washer tubs have a center tube where the agitator mounts.  While that may get in the way of loading firewood, it does serve some useful purposes in camp.  For example, I use the tube to put a "foot" on the tub to get it up off the ground.  I mount mine on a stand so it is a few inches above the ground. This serves two purposes. One, you can get your toes right under it to get them warm on cold nights, and two, it brings the top of the unit up to a comfortable cooking height.  The stand consists of a cut down RV table leg that fits inside the bottom of the agitator tube and the outdoor tripod designed to let you use your RV table outside.  I mounted a round grate from an old back yard BBQ on a piece of pipe that fits in the center tube at the top of the washing machine tub, giving me a perfect cooking surface for burgers, hotdogs, corn on the cob, baked potatoes, etc, and for pots for heating water or cooking other things. Contact me (desertrat@desertrat.org) if you are interested in more information about acquiring the materials and building your own R2D2. I can't take credit for the idea -- or the name. In fact, we usually refer to ours as "R2D2 Me Too" since the original R2D2 belongs to a dirt-biking buddy from California. By the way the name is derived from the round, squat shape and the way the fire blinks through the perforations like the lights on Star Wars robot R2D2.  When we are done with our fire for the night, I put a metal garbage can lid over the top, held down by a rock, to prevent any embers from escaping. All the left-over wood burns down to a fine ash by morning, without the danger of spreading hot embers in the wind. Then it can be dumped out and packed up for the trip home. The metal lid might also be used to protect the fire from rain that might otherwise put it out before you're ready to shut down.  When it is on its stand, the bottom is a few inches off the ground. This brings the cooking surface up to a more comfortable height and allows us to get our toes underneath to warm them up on cold nights.

The venerable Coleman stove. The camp stove, in white gas or propane versions, has been a staple of camp cooking for generations. These are fairly inexpensive, light weight and easy to transport, and allow you to prepare food outdoors about the same way you would cook on the stove at home or in your RV. You have nearly the same control over them as  you do your gas range at home or in an RV. Camp stoves are excellent resources to have in your emergency preparedness supplies. Just make sure you have the right fuel.   There are some stoves that are made for "dual fuel" operation.  They will run on either white  gas/Coleman fuel or regular unleaded gasoline.  There are light weight, single-burner back-packer stoves that run on butane. They are very small and light weight so they are easy to store and to carry. The fuel canister is about the size of a can of shaving cream. These are great for short back-packing trips but fuel could be a problem in any kind of extended survival situation. White gas and propane are usually much less expensive, but the larger stoves and fuel containers are not suitable for all situations (like back-packing). The little butane stoves often have built-in flint-and-steel or piezio-electric lighters. The larger Coleman style stoves usually have to be lit with a match or lighter or can be equipped with an add-on flint lighter. Make sure you place the stove on a solid, level, non-flammable surface. Cooking on either of these types of stoves is much the same as using a gas range at home. Make sure you have sufficient overhead and lateral clearance so that you don't set the trees or bushes or your tent or RV on fire. You may need to provide some kind of wind break in breezy conditions. Sometimes the breeze can be strong enough to blow out the flame but even when it isn't that strong, it tends to blow the heat away before it can do its job cooking your meal. Some gasoline powered stoves are built to run on either white gas (Coleman fuel) or ordinary unleaded gasoline. Ordinary unleaded gas is less expensive and will probably be more available in a disaster situation, so having a dual-fuel or unleaded gas stove has its advantages. DO NOT use your Coleman stove in a tent or structure that isn't made for cooking. Stoves require appropriate ventilation to function properly and to prevent you from suffocating as they consume oxygen and give off toxic fumes. Using a stove inside a tent also presents MANY fire hazards. In addition, cooking fumes will damage tent materials, reducing performance and longevity, and creating unpleasant odors that will be difficult if not impossible to get out. Most Coleman and similar style camp stoves have built-in wind protection. Open the lid and swing out the side panels and you've wind guards on 3 sides of your stove. Face the back of the stove into the prevailing winds and you'll probably be able to successfully prepare your meals in all but the very windiest conditions.

Camp Chef is another good brand for outdoor cooking options. Their products are usually bigger, stronger, and hotter than ordinary camp stoves. The Camp Chef stove we bought is a two-burner model with removable legs that lets it fold up into a compact package for transport and storage. Options include a BBQ box and very nice grill/griddle combinations that add a lot of flexibility to this stove. A 6" high wind guard is also available and helps a lot in windy conditions. A Camp Chef stove will easily accommodate large frying pants and stock pots for preparing meals for larger groups of people.  Available accessories worth considering include grill/griddles,  a BBQ box, and a sturdy canvas carrying case.

Portable propane BBQs. There are a number of portable propane BBQs on the market that are good choices for camping and picnicing. They use the small 1 lb. propane cylinders so they are easy to transport, set up, and use. They provide pretty much the same features as cooking on your gas BBQ at home, but in a smaller package. You can fuel these directly from the propane tank on your RV using an "Extend-a-flow" system that connects from the RV gas line to the stove. You will also want to protect these against wind. On more than one occasion it was windy enough that I gave up grilling hamburgers outside and had to fry them in a pan on the RV range. Again, DO NOT use BBQs or hibatchis inside a tent or RV and avoid using them under an RV awning, a dining fly, or other fabric canopy.

Charcoal. Many people like cooking with charcoal. It is a fairly efficient method and, depending on the type of wood the charcoal is made from, can lend a pleasant taste to burgers and steaks grilled directly over the coals. Charcoal is also a good fuel for Dutch oven cooking. One draw-back is that it takes some time to get the charcoal going, so make sure you plan ahead and give yourself enough lead time. If you use charcoal lighter fluid to start your charcoal, you'll want to allow time enough for all the lighter fluid to burn away before cooking anything directly over the coals. Charcoal lighter fluid is not at the top of anyone's list of favorite condiments! Small table-top charcoal grills and Hibachis are popular choices for camping and picnicing. Personally I prefer the convenience of gas-fired grills. They light easily and heat up more quickly, fuel is cleaner to transport, and I don't have to worry about disposing of hot coals when I'm done.

Disposable charcoal grills can be useful when transport space is limited.  These are usually intended to be used once and thrown away.  They have lightweight pans that don't stand up to repeated use.  They usually come with the charcoal already loaded in the pan.  Just unwrap the whole works, light the charcoal, and you're in business.

Solar cooking. Now we get into some of the more adventurous and experimental techniques. Solar cooking is excellent in survival or disaster situations and is a clean and economic method anytime. You can find numerous plans for solar stoves and solar ovens on the Internet. While specific designs vary, they mostly use the same commonly available materials: cardboard and aluminum foil. The idea is to form reflectors that concentrate the sun's rays on the container you wish to heat. An efficient solar stove can boil water fairly quickly. Solar stoves are light weight, inexpensive to build, cost nothing to operate and can be used anywhere you have sunlight. A solar cooker would be an excellent thing to have in your emergency supply kit. In a survival situation you might make one using only aluminum foil.  You can buy ready made solar cookers too, but to my mind they seem to be a little pricey.

Cooking for a large group? Cooking for a large group obviously takes some special preparations. It is difficult to get everything ready for a lot of people all at the same time. I used to have two 2-burner Coleman stoves and one 3-burner stove I used for scout outings and larger family gatherings. Those were usually more than enough for extended family groups and even some Boy Scout and Church outings. I picked up a larger Camp Chef stove a few years ago. It has two very large burners and there are tons of accessories available for it, including a BBQ box and grill/griddle combination. It has its own adjustable legs so it can be set up level on uneven ground and I don't have to worry about finding a non-combustible surface to set it on. It runs off a portable propane tank like the one you use for your home BBQ or can be hooked to your RV propane tank via an Extend-a-Flow kit. I have found it very versatile for outdoor cooking. The grill/griddle is GREAT for steaks and pancakes. It is a bit large and a bit heavy compared to Coleman stoves. You would not want to take it hiking, but it is great for RV and car camping trips.

A friend of mine in California built the ultimate camp kitchen. He got hold of some surplus cook stove components from an old forest service camp kitchen that was being renovated. He bought a little trailer frame, like one of the kits you put a sheet of plywood on to make a 4x8 flatbed trailer. He built a steel framework to mount the stoves. He had a large (at least 3'x3') grill/griddle, a grate about the same size for cooking hamburgers and large cuts of meat, and a couple of big burners for heating pots of water. He enclosed the sides of the trailer and added a top with fold-out legs so, when lifted off the trailer, the top provided a large table for food preparation and serving. He added a tall lantern hook like a shepherd's crook for a Coleman lantern, and powered the whole thing off a huge propane tank like those used for mobile homes. It provided a truly professional cooking environment and was actually fun cooking for huge groups using his setup. The grill/griddle did dozens of hamburgers at a time and we could cook breakfast for 50 people or so (eggs, bacon, sausage, and pancakes) all at once so everyone could eat together. The extra burners heated water while we were cooking for hot beverages and for clean-up. If you come across some used restaurant equipment and want to make your own portable camp kitchen, keep in mind that the orifices used for propane and natural gas are different sizes and you may have to change them if the unit you purchase was rigged for natural gas.

Microwave ovens are more likely to be used in an RV than on a picnic table when tent camping, but if you're in a campground with power or have brought a portable generator along, you might use a microwave outdoors.  One of the advantages of cooking outdoors is that it keeps the heat and fumes out of your RV.   Serving a piping hot pizza or some Hot Pockets right from the microwave on the picnic table can be rather convenient.  And  you can't beat the speed at which microwave ovens prepare things for  you.  For example, you can whip up a cup of coffee, tea, or hot chocolate in 1 minute.

Emergency meals. If you find yourself using your camp cooking skills in a post-disaster situation, knowing how to prepare simple meals with minimal resources will be advantageous. Be sure to try out some during normal camping trips so you'll know how to do it when disaster strikes. Foil dinners, also known as "hobo stew" are simple and can be cooked in a campfire or on a stove or BBQ. Simply wrap some meat, potatoes and vegetables (seasoned to taste) in aluminum foil and heat until the meat is cooked and the potatoes are no longer crunchy. If you are without pots and pans you can sometimes make do cooking on stones. Put some dry, flat, non-porous stones in the bottom of your fire for about an hour. When the fire burns down enough, sweep the ashes off with a handful of long green (not dry) grass, then cook meat, fish, eggs, etc right on the hot stones. MREs (Meals Ready to Eat) have pretty much replaced the old-time C-rations for military applications and are now available to civilians at most outdoor supply stores. They are pretty easy to transport and have a long shelf life but they tend to be a little pricey. Be aware that even though they come in sealed foil pouches, they are still susceptible to being chewed into by rodents.  Old-time C-rations make good emergency meals if you can get your hands on some. They still occasionally show up at military surplus stores. Sometimes they are released from Civil Defense Emergency centers when the facilities are retired or renovated. Even though the expiration date may have passed, they are probably still viable unless the cans are bulging or corroded. You may be able to heat canned food like chili, stew, soup or canned meat by placing the can on the exhaust manifold of your vehicle, either while it is running or while it is still hot shortly after parking it. Make sure you have a way to remove it without burning your hands! Wear gloves or use pliers to pick it up -- or use a stick to knock it off the manifold.  This was a favorite way to heat up C-rations when I was in the Army more years ago than I like to count.

I have recently come across emergency meals that include their own heat packs.  They come a dozen in a box and are completely self-contained meals, except for drinks.  Having their own heat packs eliminates the need for stoves or fires making them very attractive options for dealing with an emergency situation,

Bon appetite!

RVs and OHvs -- My Personal Preferences

People sometimes ask what is the best RV or OHV? The only true answer to that question is, "The one that works for you now". There are various yardsticks people may use to rate different brands and styles, such as price, features, performance, and reputation. Personally I would replace "price" with "value". If you have the resources, it is possible to pay millions of dollars for a fancy Class A motorhome, but does it deliver real value over a less expensive, entry level, "luxury" motorhome? Perhaps for some people. But since most of us don't have that kind of cash lying around looking for something to spend it on, we have to examine the options within our own budgets. That's where value really comes into play. An inexpensive, tent trailer isn't a good value no matter how cheap it is to purchase if it doesn't fit your family or you don't or won't use it, while a $250,000 Class A luxury RV might be an excellent value if you can afford it and if it delivers the functionality and features you require or desire. Personally, I  find value in "extras" I might not have considered essential in my early days of RVing. For example, a recent motorhome had an electric step, automatic levelers, an ice maker, and a washer and dryer, none of which were on my original "must have" list, but things we definitely enjoy and that add convenience to our outings. Having been spoiled by the levelers, they are close to becoming a "must have" if/when we switch again. I especially appreciate them when I arrive in camp after dark or in bad weather.  The ice maker is a nice option during hot desert outings although it seldom got used.  The washer and dryer virtually never got used.  It would be a different story if we were full timing.  Thought about  using the dryer to dry clothing after we got wet in the rain but gave up because the rollers for the drum had developed a flat spot from sitting unused for so long and it thumped like it was full of boots!

What works for me may or may not work for you.  Only YOU can decide what works for you.  You might consider the opinions of experienced users, but ultimately, you have to find the right setup for you and your family.  There is definitely value in asking your colleagues why they chose their rigs and what they like -- and don't like -- about them.

Over the years I've owned and used almost every type of recreational vehicle there is: tent trailers, travel trailers, fifth wheels, truck campers, toyhaulers, Class B van conversions, Class C motorhomes, and Class A motorhomes. For many years we owned an older Holiday Rambler Class A, a 40' diesel pusher. Which one was the best? Each one I owned was the best for me at the time. I liked the big Holiday Rambler a lot, it had more conveniences and luxuries than others we've owned, but it would not have been good for our family of eight when all the kids were still at home.  It seems kind of strange that the really big Class A's are usually designed for 2 people while many of the smaller Class C's accommodate 8-10 people!  The "bunkhouse" motorhomes we owned when the kids were young were best for us at the time, our luxury Class A fit our needs as a semi-retired couple until we decided to downsize.  So, not only should your RV be the best for you, it needs to be the best for you right now.   For most people affordability is usually a significant factor in purchasing an RV so the best RV for you at any given time is likely to be the one that fits your budget as well as your family and your planned use.  Fortunately, there are usually a fair number of units on the market at any one time giving you many to choose from in order to get the most features for what you spend.

Overall, I have found that the Class A motorhome best meets my needs and the needs of my family most of the time. I prefer a motorhome over any type of towable RV for a couple of reasons. For one thing, most of my travels have mostly been in California and Oregon where vehicles pulling trailers are limited to 55 mph. When we were on a tight schedule to visit Grandma and Grandpa in Oregon it cut many hours off the trip to be able to travel the normal speed limit. A thousand mile trip at 55 mph will take a little over 18 hours. The same trip at 70 mph will take about 14.25 hours. So if travel time is important to you, driving a motorhome will save a significant amount of time on the road in states with the 55 mph for vehicles towing trailers. I've always thought that the reduced speed limits for trucks and trailers was a particularly misguided "safety" measure. One of the most dangerous traffic conditions is "traffic shear" -- the difference in speed between lanes of traffic. It seems counterproductive to legislate traffic shear by having different speed limits for different vehicles on the same  road. There may have been a time when over-the-road trucks didn't have adequate stopping power, but today's trucks have brakes engineered for 100,000 pounds and are typically hauling less than 80,000 pounds. Pulling travel trailers without their own braking systems may over-stress the brakes on a tow vehicle, but any trailer with its own adequate brakes should offer no more risk than a large two-axle truck, which is not restricted to the 55 mph speed limit. Oh well, enough standing on my soap box and whining.

Another advantage of a motorhome, at least to me and my family, is the comfort and convenience traveling in one provides. You don't have to be constantly searching for rest areas or service stations to meet the demands of children's smaller bladders. You can send your co-pilot back to get you a beverage or a snack when needed. With appropriately placed entertainment systems, the kids can enjoy their favorite movies or video games on the road, significantly reducing the incessant cries of "are we there yet?". I also like the minimal setup required when we reach our destination or stop along the way. Many times we've just pulled off the road in a safe area and climbed into bed when we got too tired to keep driving. Of course everyone but the driver can sleep while still traveling too. In some states it is illegal for passengers to ride in a trailer, so on-the-road rest for non-drivers isn't an option in towables in those states.

My preference of a Class A motorhome over a Class C also has a lot to do with perceived stability driving and the capacity of on-board resources. Class A's typically have larger fresh water tanks and larger holding tanks, both of which were essential for dry-camping in the desert with a family of eight (or even a couple!).   As for the stability issue, that is largely subjective and many Class C's are very stable and comfortable to drive. Especially with the new "Super C" models based on large truck chassis instead of a cutaway van chassis.  Some people may be more comfortable driving a Class C because the driver's station and view out the windshield is pretty much exactly the same as a full size van -- but you still have to be aware of and make allowances for the extra height, width, and weight.

I'm NOT saying everyone should run out and buy a Class A motorhome. Your needs will be different from ours. Class C motorhomes are typically smaller, which may be important if you have limited space to park them at home or plan to use them on narrow, twisty roads or camp in small spaces, such as campgrounds with length limitations. Some Class C's get better gas mileage than larger Class A units. Class Bs are even more compact and can offer even better fuel economy. Since Class Bs are fundamentally a full-size van, they can be used as a second car and sometimes even fit in a standard garage. We were quite comfortable in a Class C for many years and even have a lot of fond memories of our early Class B when our family was small.

Towables are still good options for many people. Your budget and/or available storage area may dictate a light weight tent trailer or travel trailer that you can tow with the family car. Not to worry. There are many options available, depending on how you plan to use your RV and what features and conveniences you consider essential. Tent trailers are usually the least expensive and lightest, but there are many lightweight travel trailers designed to be towed by smaller vehicles.  Tent trailers require more setup when you get to where you're going, aren't as well insulated (so they'll be harder to cool in summer and harder to keep warm on cooler days), and some people find the sound of the tent fabric flapping in the breeze disturbs their slumber.

If you already own a pickup truck, a truck camper may be a good solution for you. The latest truck campers even have slide outs that significantly increase the limited living space in traditional campers. We got an incredible deal on an older camper. The unit is more than 40 years old but in exceptionally good condition and we paid only $100 for it! It is fully self contained and everything works. It gives us an option for reaching campsites where our 40' Class A can't go.

The bottom line is, what is best for me, or for your neighbor or your brother-in-law, or the RV salesman, does NOT determine what is best for you. To borrow and adapt a phrase from Smokey The Bear, "Only YOU can decide what is right for you."

The same thing applies to OHVs. My family and I ride dirt bikes. We always have. When we started riding there were no 3-wheeled ATCs or 4-wheeled ATVs and the only "side-by-sides" were Jeeps and dune buggies. Today there are many options, including 4-wheel drive ATVs and UTVs (side-by-sides). One of the reasons we've stayed with dirt bikes over the years is their maneuverability. Dirt bikes don't roll over when you ride them across a hillside the way ATVs and UTVs have a tendency to do. Of course, ATVs don't fall over when you stop like dirt bikes do so there is a recognizable trade off. Dirt bikes can also easily negotiate narrow single track trails and deftly weave through obstacles such as trees and boulders. ATVs do have advantages in some terrain, especially if they're equipped with 4-wheel drive. The wide, soft tires are excellent for sand, snow, mud, and other soft surfaces. ATVs are also useful as support vehicles for other activities, such as hunting, fishing, and search and rescue operations where you need or want to carry additional equipment or may need to transport injured people. There is no "ideal" OHV. Pick the one that works for you today. You should feel comfortable riding it and it should be fun! If it fails either of these criteria, keep looking. My personal favorite was a KTM 520 EXC off road motorcycle. It had a 4-stroke, electric start engine with enough power to easily lift the front wheel when needed to clear obstacles and negotiate whoops. I now ride a smaller 250CC 4-stroke Honda. It is quick and more maneuverable on mountain trails here in Utah and easier to pick up when I crash than my KTM, but it lacks the raw, 1960's muscle-car style power of the KTM that I so enjoyed in on desert trails in southern California.  Just like an RV, affordability is usually a major factor in finding the right ride.  You can sometimes get exceptionally good deals on used OHVs.  But sometimes, especially if the price is particularly low, you'll find they've been abused and you would better off to keep looking.  There are usually plenty of used OHVs on the market and people will have various reasons for selling them.  Sometimes they've upgraded to a newer or at least different model and are just hoping to get a little more out of their old unit than the trade in allowance would have been.  Sometimes there are life style changes that force a sale.  When there are accidents or illnesses in the family, people sometimes have to give up their toys.   Sometimes a change in job or marital status may alter their priorities and their opportunities to go riding.

Of course, what works for you might not be an RV at all.  You might like tent camping better -- or it might fit your budget better at this time.   Remember, the whole formula is "what works best for you right now".  You may have to compromise on some of the features you want if they aren't currently within your budget.  However, careful searching and patience may let you find something that comes close to being the rig of your dreams.  Just don't let your "ultimate" dream setup keep you from getting started.   When you find an RV that meets most of your requirements, it might be worth trying it out for a while.  You may very well learn many things that will prepare you to make better choices in the future.

Available budget will often be a significant factor in choosing equipment.  If money were no object, we could all just run down to our favorite dealer and order up RVs or OHVs custom made to our individual specifications.  But for most of us, budget demands we purchase used items or buy "off the rack" when buying new ones.  Each time I've changed RVs I've had to wrestle with major decisions between older units with more features and newer ones with fewer miles.  But one of the wonderful things about RVs is you can usually even find older units with low miles.  When we had to replace our 1986 40' Holiday Rambler due to an accident we opted for a 1984 Southwind Eagle, a 27' Class A with just under 42,000 miles on it.  And if you decide an RV isn't in your budget yet, go ahead and enjoy some tent camping.  You'll have fun and learn a lot.

Now, figure out YOUR personal preferences and pick the RV and OHV that is right for you -- right now!

RV Awnings

RV awnings perform a number of functions on today's rigs. The traditional RV awning is the patio awning that provides shade and protection from light rain and creates a patio space alongside your RV.  The patio awning often shades many of the windows too, reducing heat transfer to the interior.   Traditional awnings include patio, window, and door awnings. Window awnings are easy to use and shade individual window so you can leave them open to enjoy a fresh air in your RV, even in light rain. They also keep out the sun to keep the interior cooler, protect the upholstery, and reduce load on the air conditioner. Some window awnings can be pulled down so they cover the entire window, offering additional privacy as well as keeping out unwanted light and heat.   Door awnings extend over the door, mostly to provide protection from rain when you're going in and out.  Most units equipped with slide out rooms have awnings that automatically extend over the top of the slide out to protect it and reduce the chance of moisture or wind leaking into the RV.  Awnings can ONLY be used when the vehicle is parked.  NEVER leave any awning extended while traveling. Even if you don't hit a sign post or something like in the movie "RV", at highway speeds the wind alone will rip the awning off the vehicle, often causing serious damage to the side of the vehicle as well as destroying the awning and its hardware. If you don't believe me, watch the movie "RV" with Robin Williams and see what happens when he drives off in his rented RV with the awning extended. He doesn't get far before the awning is knocked off as he passes a sign post.  A more common problem is an awning coming loose (unrolling) during transit.  A flapping or detaching awning can also create a nasty hazard for other drivers -- one you would be financially responsible for if your awning damages their vehicle or causes an accident.  Even properly stowed awnings sometimes work loose in transit, so in addition to making sure they are locked down before you hit the road, keep an eye on the while you're traveling.  You can also buy special straps and cases to supplement the original anchoring methods for extra protection. The cases, which snap on, also protect the exposed part of the awning fabric from sunlight.

To extend the awning you usually have to release a locking lever on the front end of the awning roller.  You can usually use the same wand to do this that you will use to pull the awning down.  These wands are usually made of solid steel rod about 3' long with a 90° angle about 1" long to engage the latch on one end and a loop for a handle on the other end.  There are also telescoping wands to save space in your RV but mine broke the first time I tried to use it.  The angle pulled right out of the tube.  It may have been a manufacturing defect.  The angle had grooves that could have been gripped if the tube had been compressed around it, but there was no evidence of any attempt to clamp the tube to the angle.  Once you've unlocked the roller, unfasten all the clamps or pins that secure the awning arms.  Sometimes there are locks that hinge around the arms; just swing them out until they allow the inside rafter to pull free.  Sometimes there are spring clamps with pins that go through the arm and the rafter to keep them in place.  Almost always you also need to loosen the knob that tightens the rafter in place once it is extended to allow it to slide open.  When everything has been unlocked, hook the angle end of the wand in the loop in the awning strap.  It should be about in the middle of the awning and barely visible under the awning roll.  If you can't find it, simply pull out on the arms to get the awning to unroll.  Having one person on each end will make this easier, especially on longer awnings, but it isn't absolutely necessary.  If you have to do it solo you might have to go back and forth from end to end several times before you get it all the way open.  Once the awning is fully unrolled, slide the ends of the rafters (which are inside the channel of each arm) up toward the roller as  far as they can go and lock them in place using the knob on the rafter.  Then use the handle on each arm to raise the awning to the desired height.  If you're going to use de-flappers, it is usually easier to install them now before you raise the awning out of reach.  The arms will usually have spring loaded buttons on the inner arm that lock into holes in the outer arm.  There will be several holes so you have quite a bite of flexibility in setting the height of the awning.  Make sure it is high enough to clear the entry door.  Most awnings are made so you can disconnect the bottom of the arms from the side of the RV if you want to use it in "patio" mode.  In this mode the arms are placed so they are perpendicular to the ground under the front corners of the awning and are staked in place.  Some people find the angled arms (as shown in the picture above) get in their way and prefer the patio mode.  Personally, I prefer to leave the arms attached to the RV.  They are very stable and secure and it is quicker and easier to roll the awning up if the wind kicks up or I have to make a quick departure for any reason.  If you have any center rafters or "awnbrella" supports they should be installed now.  "Awnbrella" supports are designed to bow upward to lift the awning fabric, provide a little extra head room, and improve rain run-off.  By tightening and support the fabric they also help control flapping.


To retract your awning and store it for travel,  reverse steps used to extend it.  If the awning is in patio mode (with the bottom end of the arms removed from their locks on the RV and placed on the ground, reattach them to the RV.  Then release the arms and lower the awning roller by unlocking the arms and collapsing them.  Most awnings have a release handle that is also used to lift or lower the arms.  Then release the catches on the rafters, unscrew the knobs, and slide the outside end of the rafters down toward the bottom of the arms so they're roughly parallel to the side of the RV and in place with the arms.  Then release the lock lever on the roller tube.  Keep a hand on the tube so it doesn't get away from you as you make your way to the center.  Use the awning strap to control the speed at which the awning rolls up.  You will need the wand to control the ascent as it rises above your reach.  If there is a wind, it may cause the awning to roll up crooked and you may have to tweak the arms a little to get them to close around the rafters -- or unlock the roller, pull the awning back out, and do it over until you get it straight, having someone help by guiding the arms as they close.  Once the awning is completed rolled up and in place, tighten the knobs on the rafters and secure the awning arms using the hinged locks or spring pin clamps.  There are also after market devices to further secure the awning roller and arms to prevent it from coming loose during transit.  Some secure the arms, some secure the rolled fabric.  Those that secure the arms are easier to use since you don't have to reach up to the roof or get on the roof to reach the rolled awning to install them.  Devices and cases that secure the rolled awning can be difficult to install, but may be worth the effort to protect your expensive awning and give you peace of mind on the road.

A convenient awning accessory is set of awning deflappers.  These clever devices fasten to the horiztonal awning arms on each end of the awning and clamp to the fabric to help keep it taught and reduce flapping in light breezes.  You still want to retract your awning when the wind picks up.  I have tried two different styles.  On clamps securely to the awning arms and the other uses a velcro strap.  They both work pretty well.  The velcro strap version allows you some leverage to pull the awning taught once the clamp is tightened on the fabric.  With the rigid model you have to grab  hold of the awning fabric and pull it into the clamp while you secure it.  This task is easier with two people so if you're planning on setting up your awning by yourself frequently, the one with the velcro strap might be a better choice.

Awnings enhance and extend outdoor living space on our RVs just like patios and porches do on our permanent residences. They provide a place where we can sit and enjoy the view, comfortably out of the sun or even light rain. There are many accessories that can further enhance the experience. On very hot days in the desert I have used a mist system along the awning roller to make the area under the awning cooler and more comfortable. If you connect the mist system to your RV fresh water supply, take care not to use up all your water! I used a separate water supply and pump. There are shades you can use to extend the awning to block late-afternoon sunlight. There are panels you can attach to enclose the awning to create an outdoor room. You can chose from screen panels that partially block the sun and keep out insects but allow you to still see out or solid, privacy panels, that turn the entire area under the awning into an enclosed room. The roller tube on most RV awnings has a slot that accommodates shades and privacy panels and a variety of other accessories, including patio lights and 12-volt fans.

Awning Mats. Awning mats further define your RV "patio" and help keep dirt and debris from being tracked into your coach. There are many beautiful awning mats to choose from to match or compliment just about any RV color scheme. They are usually made of a polypropolene mesh that allows water to pass through the mat instead of puddling. Many people still use simple "grass mats" -- the green, artificial grass style indoor-outdoor carpet available in most hardware stores and home centers. Although the green color doesn't always match the RV color scheme, the lawn-like appearance makes it quite acceptable for most applications. You can also purchase it in any length you want to cover the whole area under your awning. I have used them for years with good success. They are inexpensive and you can hang them on the fence or lay them out on an inclined driveway to hose them off when needed. Be sure to let them dry thoroughly before folding or rolling them up and putting them away.  If you put them away wet you'll encourage mold and mildew that won't be pleasant the next time you want to use them.  Awning mats can usually benefit from being staked down so the wind doesn't mess with them.  When camping on dirt or gravel you can use tent stakes or large (10"-12") nails.  I've seen folks recommend driving the nails through a canning jar lid to get some leverage to remove them and to hold the mat securely.  I prefer to us large flat washers, which are much stronger than the tin lids.  We used to camp on an old paved culdesac the California City area in southern California.  It looked just like the rest of the desert but there was asphalt under the sand.  Tent pegs and manually driven nails wouldn't work there so I used a Hilti 22 caliber nail gun to tack down my awning mat.  2" nails were usually sufficient and fairly easy to remove when it came time to break camp.  I shot the nails through washers so they didn't cut through the mat and could be easily removed.

Another convenient accessory for awnings are side walls. You can choose between screen or solid fabric, depending on whether you want to just keep out the bugs or create a private space. You might adapt ordinary tarps to create a private room, but commercial kits will be cut to size and shape for easier installation, better fit, and will be better looking.  Another side wall alternative is a loose knit shade fabric that is primarily intended to filter sunlight without completely blocking your view.

Sometimes you need an extension on your awning when the sun drops low enough to shine underneath it. Extensions are usually made of  opaque vinyl sheeting that slides into the accessory rail on the awning roller but can also be attached with clamps to the valance on non-roller awnings.  Some full length commercial extenders are made of a mesh fabric that blocks most of the glare but not the view. In a pinch you might use an ordinary tarp to extend your awning. The mesh extenders often serve pretty well to keep the bugs out too. You may need an extension on the front of your awning or on one or both sides, depending on how your rig is oriented toward the sun and what time of day it is.  Sometimes you can just let the extenders hang down but mostly you'll want to secure the bottom edge with bungee cords to keep it from flapping and to hold it at the angle you want it.  Mesh extenders allow some air flow and block most of the sun' heat while solid extenders will block air flow while completely protecting you from the sun.  Choose what will meet your individual needs.

The most convenient awnings are permanently attached to the RV, together with the arms necessary to support them. You can even purchase electrically operated awnings that can be extended or retracted at the touch of a button. Upscale models even have wind and rain sensors that retract the awning automatically when the wind exceeds a pre-set speed or it starts to rain. When using any permanently attached awning, be sure to release the travel locks before trying to extend it and make sure they are securely latched before driving. Many awnings have spring lock pins that push through the arms for a positive lock while traveling that have to be removed to extend the awning. It is a good idea to keep a little tension on the awning as you roll it up to ensure it rolls tightly when putting it away. A loosely rolled awning can be caught by the wind as you're driving and the results can be disasterous!. Not only is it likely to tear the awning fabric, it can whip the awning arms loose, ruining the arms and causing serious damage to your vehicle or even other vehicles on the road.

Permanently installed awnings can usually be used with the bottom of the arms still attached to the vehicle at an angle or in "patio" mode, where the bottom of the arms are staked down to the ground, allowing the arms to stand erect. Leaving the arms attached to the vehicle means you don't have to bother with staking them down to the ground and it makes it quicker and easier to extend and retract the awning.  You also avoid having to deal with securing the foot of the arms to muddy ground.  This is especially appealing if the wind kicks up and you need to retract the awning in a hurry. A disadvantage to this option is that the arms are angled from the roller at the outer edge of the awning back to where they mount near the bottom of the RV side wall. This creates an obstacle that some people find very annoying. If you're one of them, you can detach the bottom of the arms from the side of the RV and stake them down directly below the roller tube so they are vertical. There are also awning straps that can are designed to help secure the awning in higher winds. They pass over the top of the awning and are secured to the ground by cork-screw shaped metal anchors. In my personal opinion, if the wind gets strong enough to need an awning strap, its time to put the awning away. There are also "deflappers", devices that attach to the rafters and clamp to the fabric to reduce the how much the fabric flaps in moderate breezes. I've tried several styles of these and they all seem to work pretty well. Some are rigid and clamp tightly to the rafters, some use velcro straps around the rafters. They all clamp to the fabric to help keep it tight and reduce flapping.  You many want to check out the devices used by your fellow campers to decide which is best for you. The rigid style takes up more storage space, but seems to me to be a little more secure. Permanently installed RV awnings are usually covered by the comprehensive option on your vehicle policy.  Since large awnings can be expensive to replace if they get damaged, it is worth looking into what it costs to include comprehensive coverage and what it covers.  You don't have to pull a dumb stunt like Robin Williams did in the movie "RV" where he drove off with the awning extended.  Close tolerances at camp sites or where you park your RV at home may result in them getting knocked off.  If they aren't securely locked -- or if the locking mechanism is worn or sticky -- they may unroll during highway travel and get damaged.  If your awning should unroll on the highway, pull over where it is safe and attempt to roll it backup as tightly as possible and secure it so it won't come loose again.  Tying or taping the arms along with taping the awning roll itself are some ways to secure it.

Awning maintenance. Awnings normally required little maintenance other than keeping them clean. However, it is a good idea to check all the hardware at least once a year. Spring cleaning is a good to schedule this. Make sure all the screws are tight. That includes those attaching the rail behind the awning as well as all the main brackets. If you are seeing leaks or streaks down the side of your RV under the awning, the screws attaching the rail may be loose and/or the sealant is damaged. For smooth operation spray a little silicone lubricant on the locking mechanisms. Rub a little candle wax or paraffin on sliding surfaces. You might also dry using dry teflon lubricant. Anything that leaves a sticky residue should be avoided since it would trap dirt and damage the surfaces. Be sure to follow your manufacturer's recommendations for lubricants and service and adjustments.  Awning fabric can benefit from using special cleaners that condition the fabric and provide extra UV protection.  If your awning gets faded but the integrity of the fabric is still in tact you can paint them with vinyl paint to renew -- or change -- the appearance.  You will probably have to mask off the portions you don't want to paint.  The easiest way I've found is to disconnect the arms so I can let the awning hang all the way down the side of the RV, giving me access to a nice, flat, vertical surface to paint.  Go easy and use several light coats to avoid creating runs.

A key factor to keeping an awning looking and good and lasting a long time is to keep it clean and never allow it to be stored wet for any length of time. There are special awning cleaners and conditioners that can safely be used to clean your awning and restore its appearance. A good conditioner will also add UV protection and help prevent the fabric from becoming faded and brittle. If you put an awning away wet and leave it for more than a day or two before opening it up and drying it, the next time you go to use it, it is likely to have the appearance and aroma of a duck blind in the swamp -- not usually a good thing!

A note of caution: awning rollers are spring loaded. Always have a secure grip on the pull strap or awning arms when extending or retracting the awning. If you allow the awning to retract too quickly it can damage the arms, tear the fabric, or pinch your fingers as the arms close! If your awning doesn't roll up tightly enough you may need to adjust the tension.  This can be tricky and, if you're not careful, can result in broken fingers if you fail to control the tool you are using to wind the awning.  I like to use a pair of Channelock style slip joint pliers to grip the end of the roller once the arms have been removed.  You only need to remove them on one end.  Leave the other arm in place to secure the other end of the awning.  Take is slow and easy, and don't wind it too tight or you'll have trouble extending the awning and may run the risk of breaking the spring!

Bag awnings. A less expensive alternative to permanently mounted awnings are bag awnings. These roll up like a tent and have to be slid into the awning rail on the top of the RV when you want to use them. You will not normally see these on motorhomes or large trailers, but they are frequently used on tent trailers, truck campers, and pop-up trailers where they can be installed while the roof line is within reach. They attach to an awning rail along the top of the RV.  To install them on anything but a pop up trailer, you'll probably need a ladder to reach the awning rail.  The outer edge is held up by tent poles and they need to be held in place by ropes and stakes to pull the fabric taut. The ropes and stakes sometimes present a tripping hazard as you approach the RV so it is good to tie brightly colored ribbons or pennants to the ropes so you and your guests and see them. I've seen enterprising RVers rig a way to attach the poles to the bottom of the RV wall and hold the awning in place using ratchet straps to avoid the ropes and stakes, but in this configuration you again have an angle obstacle at each end of your awning that is annoying to some people so it is a trade-off.

Lights. If you are attached to shore power, running the generator, or have a sufficient battery/inverter configuration you can run 120-volt electric patio light strings along your awning. You will find a wide selection of styles available just about anyplace RV supplies are sold or you can even use lights designed for home patios. One of my favorites looks like a string of miniature Coleman lanterns.  You can buy awning hangers that slide into the accessory slot in the roller. Some have hooks, some have clamps like suspenders. Either one can be used to secure light strings or shades. Some folks use ID badge clips from Walmart to atach stuff to their awning valance.   Always make sure the lights hang far enough away from any fabric to avoid scorching it. If you are using a Coleman-style gas lantern, be especially careful to hang it low and away from any side panels and away from the side of your RV. These little beasties generate a LOT of heat. A friend of mine used to comfortably heat his Class B motorhome using only his Coleman lantern. It often got hot enough inside to have to open windows to moderate the temperature, even when it was quite cool outside.  These days you can buy various LED lights that will run on your 12 volt system without putting too much drain on the batteries.  A really fun version is a 7-color LED rope light that includes a remote control so you can select different colors, speeds, and patterns of operation from the comfort of your camp chair, but they are still kind of pricey.

Cooking under the awning. I try to avoid cooking under the awning. Rising smoke and cooking vapors collect on the underside of the awning and can be difficult to remove. They also leave residual odors and stains that are hard to get rid of and tend to get worse over time. If your stove gets too hot or your fire too high it may melt or scorch the awning fabric. If the weather is bad and you really need -- or want -- to cook under your awning, position the stove near one end (preferably the downwind end) to minimize the area that may be affected by rising smoke and vapors so any breeze will carry the smoke away instead of under your awning. Keep the flame as low as you can for what you're doing, don't light the stove until you are ready to use it, then turn it off as soon as you're done. I do not recommend ever building a campfire under your awning. Gas powered stoves are cleaner than charcoal burning BBQs and Hibachis and don't require the long lead time and it is easier to control the heat. Rising smoke and cooking odors can still damage awning fabrics, so always exercise caution.  That being said, I have seen tarps stretched over an entire campsite just leaving a hole in the middle over the fire pit.  If done right it works and is generally pretty save, as long as the tarps are high enough above the fire.  Consider the traditional teepees of the American Indians.  They routinely used fire inside to heat them in cold weather.  The steep sides and tall peak with an opening at they very top served as a good chimney to carry the smoke up and away. 

If you must put your awning away wet, which you probably will when it rains, open it up, clean it, and let it dry out at the first opportunity and be sure to dry it out before you return your unit to storage. Even in colder times of the year, sunlight on the rolled awning can raise temperatures inside to produce an environment that is very good for molds and fungus. If you put your awning away wet and leave it, the next time you use it, it may look more like a Ducks Unlimited camo paint job than the colorful striped awning you purchased to match your RV! And I'm sure you will find the odor quite, uh, shall we say, unusual and usually quite unpleasant. Of course, if you like earthy tones and odors and don't mind significantly reducing the usable life of your awning, be my guest! Put it away wet and enjoy the science experiment that develops inside of it! Just don't expect your spouse or your neighbors in the campground to share your appreciation for the unusual look and smell of your awning.

E-Z Ups and Dining flys. In addition to bag awnings, there are standalone awnings that can be used adjacent to your RV or over your picnic table. Dining flys are inexpensive and light weight but they are not very sturdy. They typically have thin aluminum poles -- one at each corner and a taller one in the middle. They have to be secured with ropes and stakes, usually two at each corner. Typical sizes are 12'x12', 8'x 16', and 16'x 16'. Their low price (often under $20) and light weight make them an attractive alternative to more expensive RV awings. Bag awnings typically run a couple hundred bucks for a good one. Permanently attached awnings can cost $500 - $1200 depending on size and features -- more if they are electrically operated. E-Z ups are stand alone awnings in which the fabric is usually permanently attached to the frames and they fold up like a scissor lift. They are typically much sturdier than dining flys but are also much bulkier and heavier to transport. They are, as the name implies, easy to set up and do not require ropes and stakes unless they are being used in windy conditions. They come in a variety of colors and fabrics, including mesh and solid materials depending on whether you want partial shade or full shade or rain protection. You may want to use an awning mat under stand alone awnings just as you would under a permanently mounted awning. The mat helps define the living space and creates a more sanitary and attractive "floor" than dirt, gravel, pavement, or grass.

Umbrellas. Beach umbrellas can be useful when camping. They come in a variety of sizes, ranging from personal models about 3' in diameter to patio or beach models that are typically 6-13 feet across.  Large patio umbrellas can shade a whole picnic table and will required a sturdy base to hold them up. Smaller ones that clamp to your camp chairs provide personal shade. Ordinary rain umbrellas may be handy for both sun and rain. For extra coverage, choose a golf umbrella.  A big, floppy, wide-brimmed hat can serve as your personal awning or umbrella and leaves your hands free for activities.
                                                           

Sometimes a "shady deal" is just what you need!

Holding Tank Health

Self-contained RVs are able to mimic the conveniences of home , making use of on board systems to provide power, water, and sanitation. While problems with power or water can be a nuisance and inconvenience, problems with the sanitation system can wreak havoc with your environment and even your health, on top of being REALLY unpleasant!

Power, in electrical form is provided by batteries and generators (and sometimes solar panels) and requires minimal maintenance, but that little bit of maintenance is critical. Make sure all battery and generator connections are clean and tight and service the generator regularly per the manufacturer's recommended maintenance schedule. Most generators are equipped with a low oil shutoff to prevent serious damage from low lubrication.  Even so, you should check the oil before every outing and daily in camp and top it off if necessary.  Heating fuel for the furnace, hot water heater, and even the refrigerator normally comes from propane. The propane system normally only requires filling and checking for leaks. Occasionally you may have to replace a faulty regulator.

Fresh water comes from a fresh water tank and is delivered to fixtures throughout the RV by a 12-volt water pump. Fresh water tanks require minimal maintenance. Unless they have become contaminated from a polluted water source, all they normally require is an annual flushing with a mild chlorine bleach solution (about 1 cup per 60 gallons of water) and rinsing with water and baking soda. Other than that, about all you need to do is fill your tank with clean water before you leave home. Always use a potable water hoses to avoid getting a plastic taste and smell in your fresh water supply when filling your tank. Use this same type hose when filling fresh water tanks and when connecting to city water. Use an in-line pressure regulator between the hose and the faucet to prevent high city water pressure from blowing out the hose or damaging your RV plumbing when connecting your RV to city water. If your water pump fails during a trip you can probably get water for cooking, drinking, and basic sanitation by draining some out the spigot normally used to drain your fresh water tank for winterization.  If you run out of water, you're going to have to go get some.

Sanitation facilities are made possible by the presence of holding tanks to contain the waste products from sinks, bathtubs, showers, and toilets. Most RVs have two holding tanks: one for "gray" water, from sinks, bathtubs, and showers, and a second "black" water tank for toilet waste. Holding tanks are often a mystery to newcomers and the very thought of having to deal with them is repulsive to many people until they get used to it (and sometimes even after that!). The gray water tank, if regularly dumped and thoroughly flushed, usually requires no additional chemicals or cleaning unless you dump excessive solid food wastes or other unpleasant debris down the drain. The black water tank, on the other hand, requires fresh chemicals after each dumping and sometimes between dumpings, especially in hot weather. Some commonly used chemicals which are usually considered to be most effective, contain formaldehyde which some environmentally sensitive people find objectionable, especially if you dump into a residential septic tank, but there are "green" alternatives that rely on natural enzymes to breakdown waste and control odors. Regardless of which one you choose, take care to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions. Add the correct amount of chemicals for the size of your holding tank. Using too little results in foul odors and incomplete breakdown of solid wastes and subsequent problems dumping and flushing the holding tank. Using too much is a waste of costly chemicals and can even have a negative affect on the performance of the chemicals in the tank. Black water chemicals are usually added through the RV toilet. Dump the appropriate amount of chemicals (powder or liquid) into the toilet, then run enough water to fill the narrow well in the bottom of the toilet before flushing to drop the mixture into the holding tank. Read the directions on the container for the chemicals. Most experts will tell you to add water until there is about 1 1/2" in the bottom of the tank. This provides a medium to disolve the chemicals to begin their reaction and be able to breakdown solid wastes so they can be successfully flushed when the holding tanks are dumped. It also provides some water in the bottom of the tank to prevent solids from sticking and piling up under the toilet.  Leaving the black water tank dry is an invitation for disaster. In some RVs, the shower drains into the black water tank in order to provide additional water to facilitate proper chemical action and dumping. If you have this configuration you will want to be especially careful to avoid over-filling the black water tank, which could backup raw sewage into your shower! That could literally be a really crappy problem.  Those who do a lot of dry camping often forgo adding water after flushing, but this is an invitation to disaster.  Without sufficient water in the tank solids will stick to the bottom and will pile up below the toilet, sometimes enough to clog the toilet.  Tank chemicals won't be able to do their job which is controlling odors and breaking down the solids.  It may be really difficult to get good results the next time the tank is dumped.  If you do have a problem getting everything to flush out cleanly or if  the level sensors aren't working right, try dumping a bag of ice cubes into the tank through the toilet, fill the thank about 1/4 full, and drive around a bit so the ice can scour the inside of the tank. The cubes will loosen deposits on all the surfaces inside the tank.  Once it melts you can flush the tank as usual and this time everything should come out clean.

Overfilling of waste water holding tanks is an all too common problem, especially among new users.   Pretty much, if you ever do it, you won't do it again!  Overfilled holding tanks create backup in the drains and the toilet and can make the inside of your RV so foul smelling that it will be uninhabitable.  Most RVs with holding tanks have a monitor system that at least gives you some idea of how full the tanks are getting.  They usually display E, 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, and F.  Check the monitor often during each trip and compare usage to date to the number of days remaining.  If you hit 1/2 half way through a trip, you're probably doing OK but if you hit half on the first day of a multiple day trip, you're going to be in trouble before the trip is over You'll either have to severely restrict additional use or find someplace to dump the tanks.  You might make a little extra room in your gray water tanks by draining off a bucket or two to put out the fire each night.  DO NOT try this with the black water tank! Gray water usually doesn't contain enough contaminants to cause a problem but raw sewage dumped on a hot fire will create a really foul smell.

Foul odors. Besides the obvious size limitations (holding tanks always seem to fill up way too fast!), the most common complaint about holding tanks are foul odors. Foul odors are usually the result of improper maintenance -- incomplete dumping and flushing or the lack of sufficient chemicals. While traveling, odors from roof vents may be drawn into the RV or the partial vacuum created by open windows may draw odors up through drain pipes. Odors may also escape through an incompletely closed toilet valve. There are fancy 360 degree roof vents designed to disperse vent odors. Ordinary vents are simply a loosely fitting cap on top of the vent pipe from the holding tank. If you experience holding tank odors while on the road, close all the windows. That will usually eliminate odors from being sucked in through the drain pipes. If the odor seems especially strong inside a cabinet, like under the kitchen sink, the problem may be a faulty vacuum breaker. These are used to prevent all the water from being siphoned out of the P-traps on the drains. The water left in the P-trap normally prevents odors from wafting back up out of the holding tanks through the sink and shower drains. A faulty vacuum breaker may be either stuck open, allowing odors to escape or stuck shut, allowing water to be siphoned from the P-traps subsequently allowing odors to come up through the drain. If the odor is coming from the drain, you may be able to temporarily solve the problem and make your trip more pleasant by dumping about a cup of water down the drain to re-fill the P-trap. If the odor is strongest inside a cabinet, try to locate the vacuum breaker and tap it gently to get it unstuck. The housing is made of plastic, so don't bang on it too hard or you'll may damage the plumbing and create problems far worse than a bad smell. If you notice exceptionally foul odors coming from the toilet you probably have an inadequate amount of chemicals in the black water tank or the holding tank is full! Perhaps you didn't add enough chemicals after the last dumping and flushing -- or maybe you even forgot to add them at all. You often will need extra chemicals between trips to the dump station during heavy use in hot weather. If the tank is not full, try adding chemicals to the black water tank. If, when you look down into the tank through the toilet, you do not see any liquid, add water so the chemicals can begin to breakdown solid wastes. Rather than waste precious fresh water, put a bucket under the gray water dump valve and drain off some of that to transfer to the black water tank (dump it down the toilet). As previously mentioned, some RVs connect the shower to the black water tank to deliver extra fluid directly into the tank to aid breakdown and dumping and reduce filling of the gray water tank. With that in mind, you definitely want to avoid over-filling your black water tank since it can back up into the shower, creating an extremely nasty mess! Keep an eye on the level of your holding tanks and dump them BEFORE they backup and cause some really unpleasant situations inside your RV. Most RVs have gauges that show the holding tank levels. If you're doesn't or the gauges are not working (an all too common problem), try to monitor and limit your fresh water usage. If sewage splashes back up when you flush the toilet, your black water tank is getting dangerously full. The residue from even a gray water backup creates an ideal environment for molds to grow, creating additional bad smells and staining. So avoid backups and, if you do get one, make sure you clean up any overflow as quickly and thoroughly as possible. A solution of 10% ordinary household bleach and 90% water is an effective disinfectant on most hard surfaces, but be sure to test it on an obscure spot to be sure it won't cause permanent damage when using it on carpets, upholstery, curtains, paneling, or wallpaper.

Dumping and flushing holding tanks. The most important part of maintaining your holding tanks is also one of the simplest, but many new RVers are repulsed and intimidated by it. That is dumping and flushing the tanks. Anyone who has seen the movie "RV" with Robin Williams can appreciate their trepidations. The scene where Robin's character tries to dump the holding tanks of rented RV is an exaggerated and spectacular demonstration of what NOT to do and how unpleasant the consequences can be. By the way, it is highly unlikely you will ever encounter a fountain of waste on the scale seen in the movie, but improper procedures can easily result in shoes and pant legs soaked in sewage.  On the other hand, if done correctly, dumping the tanks is a fairly simple and sanitary process. Normal RV holding tanks are dumped via a 3" hose using only gravity to transfer the sewage from the holding tanks to the dump station.  As a starting point, you need the right dump hoses and fittings (in good condition) -- something the poor novice in the movie was sadly lacking (along with a total dearth of knowledge about the rented RV). Check your sewer dump hose before you leave home to make sure 1) you have one, 2) it is in good condition, and 3) is has all the necessary fittings to connect it to your dump valves and to the dump station inlet. Extend the hose so you know how long it is. That will let you know how close you must get to the dump station. If there are worn spots on the hose or, if when you run water through it, you see leaks, get a new one! The last thing you want to deal with is raw sewage spilling onto the ground or onto you! If it spills on the ground there is a good chance that sooner or later you will walk in it and track it into your RV.  The over-the-head sewage geyser in the movie is lot going to happen, but the pressure of sewage flowing through the dump hose could create nasty sprays through pinhole leaks in your dump hose. Spray could easily reach as high as the level of the sewage still in the tank, meaning it could usually go about waist high.  Make sure the hose is securely attached to the fitting that connects to the dump valves and connected properly to the dump valves. More than one poor RVer has gotten a nasty surprise when he opened the dump valves and the weight and force of the sewage charging into the hose separated it from the fitting. And, since by necessity, you must be in close proximity to the connector to open the dump valve, you are likely to be the unwilling and unhappy recipient of a large portion of the spillage. Yccch! If you have two holding tanks connected to a single dump connection, there should be separate valves, one each for the gray water and black water tanks. Open the black water valve first and leave the gray water valve closed until you have dumped and flushed the black water tank. If you have separate connections, dump the black water tank first, then dump the gray water tank. By always dumping the black water tank first the gray water will rinse most of the raw sewage from the black water tank out of the dump connection on your RV and the hose before you put it away. How can you tell which is which? The black water tank should always have 3" dump valve. The gray water might have a 1 1/2" valve. The black water tank is usually directly below the toilet. After dumping each tank, flush the tank with clear water before closing the dump valve. This is where having a holding tank flush system comes in handy. With one of those, you simply connect a garden hose to the flush system fitting on the side of the RV and turn on the water. Nozzles inside the tank rinse the tank. Lacking a flush system, you can flush the black water tank by sticking a special wand attached to a garden hose down through the toilet or just running water down the toilet with the flush pedal depressed. A wand works better than just a hose because it directs a concentrated spray around inside the tank to rinse the walls. Try to avoid aiming the wand so that sewage is blown back up through the toilet! You won't like the results. There are also sewer hose fittings that have back-flush features. This consists of a female hose fitting upstream from the sewer hose (near the connection to the RV) that lets you connect a garden hose to the fitting. The water is directed in a forceful spray back up inside the holding tank. Of all these options, the flush system is the cleanest and easiest to use and does the best job of rinsing the inside of your holding tanks. Regardless of the method you use to rinse the thanks, rinse each one until the water coming out the end of the sewer hose is clear. Dirty water from the gray water tank will be, well, gray or cloudy. Dirty water from the black water tank may be blue or green or brown, depending on the type and amount (or lack) of chemicals in the tank. Again, dump and rinse the black water tank first, then the gray water tank.That way the gray water flushes the nasty sewage from the black water tank out of your dump hose and deep into the drain.   Flush each tank when the contents have been dumped and before moving to another tank. This avoids contaminating your gray water tank with raw sewage or chemicals. If your RV does not have a flush system, one can usually be added. I've added them to several RVs myself. It is a fairly straight forward task, easily within the skills of a confident do-it-yourselfer if you have the right tools and sufficient access to the holding tanks. You need to drill a hole in the tank to install the flush nozzle and run a hose to a connector for a garden hose. The hole should be in about the middle of the tank, top to bottom and end to end. It is most effective if installed on the long side of a rectangular tank.  Not only will you need a place to install the nozzles, you will need room for the tools (drill, screwdrivers) to do the job.  The installation kit will include detailed instructions for proper installation. Pay close attention to the instructions to avoid unpleasant leaks. Do NOT use the same hose to flush your holding tanks and rinse your dump hose as you use to fill your fresh water tank. Yeah, its a nuisance to carry around two hose, but you run the risk of contaminating your fresh water hose if it is used to flush holding tanks and sewer hoses. Professional installation of the flush system is available at most RV dealers for a nominal charge. You should always flush your holding tanks at the end of your journey, just before you put your unit back into storage, even if it has been a short trip with minimal use. Of course, you many need to dump the tanks multiple times during extended outings as well. Dumping after a trip is a good time for a thorough cleaning. The sloshing around during transit will have loosened solid waste deposits so they can be be flushed out at the dump station. You sure don't want to leave sewage in your tanks while your unit is not being used or the next time you enter it you may feel like you need a gas mask -- and the odors will cling to carpets and upholstery for a very long time!  Residual solids left in the tank may dry and get too hard and too stuck to the tank to be flushed out if you don't get them out at the end of your trip.

If done correctly, your hands should never come in contact with any sewage, but it is still a VERY good idea to always wear disposable latex or nitrile gloves whenever you handle your sewer hose -- getting it out, checking it, using it, rinsing it, and putting it away. I leave my gloves on until after I've added the chemicals to the black water tank to avoid getting the chemicals on my hands too. Some people use re-usable household rubber gloves, but I prefer disposable gloves so the dirty gloves don't contaminate anything in my RV. If you use re-usable gloves, wash and sanitize them thoroughly before you put them away so you don't contaminate your hands handling the gloves next time.  Wash your hands thoroughly after you remove your gloves.  Keep a bottle of hand sanitizer handy when dumping your holding tanks.  You 'll feel better knowing your hands aren't contaminated.

What does a sewer hose look like?   Sewer hoses are 3" in diameter and should have a fitting on one end that attaches to the dump connection on the RV.  The hoses are usually blue, gray, or brown.  They are compressible so they don't take up extra space in storage.  They have a steel spring inside that keeps the shape and allows them to be compressed.  They look kind of like a Slinky that's been dipped in plastic.  They may or may not have a second fitting that goes into the dump station.  Anyone who does a lot of full hook-up camping will probably have fittings that accommodate various sized openings a the camp sites.  Folks who mostly dry camp often just stuff the end of the sewer hose itself into the dump station drain.  Some dump stations have a heavy metal lid that can be positioned to help hold the hose in place.  If you encounter one that doesn't look for a rock or brick to put on the hose -- or have someone keep one foot on it so it doesn't pop out when the initial surge of sewage comes through and doesn't work its way loose from vibration during dumping.  Obviously it is better to subject some inanimate object to possible spills than it would be to use a foot.  You can rinse spill off a rock pretty easily, but cleaning crap off your shoes, socks, and feet would be a rather unpleasant task and you may up just throwing away your socks and Reboks if you get a black water spill on them.

Some RVs have a macerator system that grinds up sewage and pumps it out through a 1" hose instead of the big 3" dump hose, but mostly you'll see 3"dump hoses for disposing of gray and black water.  The macerator systems have several advantages.  One, they grind up waste into small particles so it can be flushed out through a 1" line that can be run into a toilet instead of a dump station.  Just be very careful to keep the hose in the toilet and not let the toilet overflow!  Another advantage is they can pump waste uphill and over some distances while standard dumping procedures rely totally on gravity.  If you're using a macerator system it will probably take longer to dump your tanks through the little 1" hose than through the big 3" gravity dump hose.

So where is that darned sewer hose in the first place? There are a number of places it may be stored. Some units have 4" square rear bumpers where the hose is stored.  Just remove the end cap to pull out the hose.  Some have special compartments which are essentially a small door covering the end of a piece of pipe that extends under the RV or into a cabinet into which the hose is shoved for storage. In some units, the sewer hose is stored loose in the cabinet with the dump valves. In some, especially older units, there may not be a specific location designed to store the sewer hose and you may find it in just about any cabinet -- hopefully any previous owners or users have had the good sense to put it in an exterior cabinet and not under the kitchen sink or the bed! If your unit is lacking a convenient place to store the sewer hose, you may be able to add one using a length of large PVC or ABS pipe. Cement a cap on the far end and install a removable cap (threaded is best) on the end where you will access the hose. Attach the pipe to the bottom of your RV  or to the rear bumper using plumbers tape. On some units it may be more convenient to mount it on the rear bumper or between the bumper and the coach body.  In an ideal installation, the open end of the tube would be placed behind an appropriately sized door in the side of the RV near the dump station.  For the most convenience, the storage should be located near the dump valves. Once you have rinsed your sewer hose and put it away, rinse the concrete pad around the dump station to flush any spilled materials down into the drain. Some dump stations have a garden hose available for your use, but just in case, it is a good idea to carry your own. This is particularly true if you have a flush system, because many times, the male fitting will have been cut off the end of the dump station hose to prevent stupid people from connecting it to their city water inlets or using it to fill their water tanks and contaminating their water supply. I carry a green garden hose for use at the dump station so it never gets confused with the white, potable water hose I use to connect city water or to fill my fresh water tank. You don't want to be using a hose for fresh water that you previously shoved down inside a sewer hose to rinse it. The very thought is almost enough to make most people want to puke! And if just thinking about it doesn't do it, drinking contaminated water just may. I sure don't plan try it to find out!

When you are finished dumping, make sure your dump valves are closed tightly and locked in place and that the travel cap is securely re-installed on the end of the dump valve connector. You can be cited if your dump valves leak onto the roadway. Besides that, the nasty stuff splashing back up onto your rig may create a really unpleasant mess to clean up when you get home.  Dump valves have a lock-nut that screws down at the base of the handle to keep them from vibrating loose during transit. Thoroughly rinse your sewer hose and let the water drain out into the dump station before you put it away.  Make sure you've put away your personal garden hose and re-connected the one that belongs to the dump station. Check to see if you've left anything behind. Then, once you've added the chemicals to the black water tank, remove and discard your disposable gloves and wash your hands. You're done! If you've done it right, it wasn't all that bad a task. If you screwed up, chances are you will never make the same mistake again since the consequences are generally very unpleasant and embarrassing -- but it will make a good campfire story some time. Just don't share it at meal time!

Holding tanks leaks are, fortunately, fairly infrequent, but they do happen and can be very unpleasant and embarrassing. Leaks may occur do to impact damage, freezing, stress, vibration, or just plain age. The most frequent source of leaks is loose connections and they can usually be easily fixed by tightening the clamps or coating the joints with the appropriate sealant.  Other leaks where the tank or plumbing has been damaged will require patching or replacing the damaged components. Most RV sewer lines and holding tanks are black ABS plastic. ABS can be chemically welded to make repairs. Milky gray tanks are LDPE and are impervious to most solvents and may require thermal welding or replacement if they are damaged. See my separate post on Holding Tank Repairs for more information.  I once saw the holding tanks on a trailer fall out on the highway.  The reflected heat from the hot pavement on a very hot day had caused them to soften and sag enough under the weight of the waste inside to sag and collapse out of the frame rails that held them in place.  The subsequent repair included adding cross members beneath the tanks to prevent a re-occurrence.

Black water tanks may require extra chemicals during especially hot weather to control odors.  High temperatures may accelerate the development of odors and interfere with the effectiveness of holding tank treatments.  Even gray water tanks my get unusually smelly when its hot.  Gray water tanks usually don't need chemicals for odor control but you may want to keep some on hand if odors become a problem.  You can use a small amount of the same chemicals you use for your black water tank in the gray water tank, but there are also special gray water tank treatments that do the job well without the risk of over-treating and perhaps introducing a high chemical odor into the tank.

Holding tanks, drains, and dump valves are susceptible to freezing in cold weather.  The holding tanks on many RVs are underneath the body where they are openly exposed to cold temperatures.  If you go camping in freezing weather with an RV that is thus equipped you will need heating pads to keep the holding tanks from freezing.  Heat tape may be need to prevent drain lines from freezing too, depending on the configuration of the plumbing.  If you have enclosed holding tanks and valves you may only need to keep the cabinet warm enough to prevent freezing.  A 100 watt incandescent light bulb (now difficult to find) or a "reptile" light used to heat the habitat of cold blooded pets might provide enough heat to prevent freezing.  BTW, you probably won't encounter any excess odor problems during cold weather unless you over-heat the tanks.

Keep On Flushing!