Conserving Onboard Resources

The resources on board your RV are limited. The fixtures and appliances inside of an RV may look and  behave a lot like those in your home and have many of the conveniences, but unless you're in a full hook up campground you are totally dependent on what resources you have on board -- what you brought with you. Even with full hook ups, your supply of gas for your furnace, stove, water heater, and refrigerator is limited by the size of your propane tank. At home we get used to taking things for granted. Except in times of extreme local disasters there is always water when we turn on the tap, always electricity when we flip the light switch, and always gas to run the furnace and water heater. They all come in almost endless supply from utility companies -- as long as you pay your bills. Waste water flows down the drain and into a sewer or septic system and we seldom have to think about it. All of these resources are in very limited supply in an RV when you are off the grid or boondocking.  You don't want to use up your water or fill your holding tanks before you're ready to leave.  It is nice to have a little capacity left for the trip home too.

Your resources are also limited when you are tent camping.   You don't have the resources of an RV but are still dependent on either what you brought with you or what is available in the campground.  If you aren't in a developed campground you are pretty much dependent on what  you brought with you and you'll need to make it last the whole outing.

Conserving battery power. Battery power is one of the most critical and often depleted resources in an RV.  Except when you are running your generator, have solar panels, or connected to shore power you are limited to the power supplied by your battery bank. Running your generator or running the engine of a motorhome or tow vehicle should recharge batteries. Some tow vehicles are wired to charge trailer batteries. If yours is not already so wired, you may want to add a battery charging circuit. If you have only a simple 4-wire connector, you will have to upgrade the connector to add an additional circuit.  But once done, you automatically charge your trailer batteries whenever the tow vehicle engine is running and the trailer is connected. The coach battery circuits, whether in a motorhome or in a trailer via a charging circuit in a tow vehicle should be protected by a battery isolator. This allows all the batteries to be charged by the vehicle alternator but will prevent the RV batteries from draining the vehicle starting battery while camped. There has been a lot of discussion about the best way to recharge RV batteries. In most cases, the fastest way is to run the automotive engine. The alternator and regulator will charge the batteries much faster than the charging circuit on most typical converters. Advanced converters and inverters with multi-stage chargers, such as Intellipower from Progressive Dynamics do a much better job than conventional converters using shore or generator power, but it is a relatively expensive upgrade -- between $250 and $300 plus installation. Having a system like this allows your batteries to be charged pretty well whenever you are using the generator for some other purpose, such as running the A/C, TV, or microwave and you don't have too think much about the batteries -- assuming you have an adequate battery bank in good condition to start with. You can reduce the amount of power drained from the batteries by the judicious use of lighting. Most lights are notorious energy wasters. Ordinary incandescent bulbs are about 10% efficient in producing light and about 90% efficient producing heat. Turn off lights when not needed. Align your activities to the rising and setting of the sun to minimize the need for lights. Use flashlights or portable camp lanterns (battery or gas powered) instead of exterior RV lights as much as possible. Turn off radios and other 12-volt appliances or equipment when not in use. Limit the use of inverter-powered 120 volt appliances.  Another option if your furnace consistently runs your battery down each night is to add an infra-red heater. They are strictly propane powered and require no electricity. The are available in both portable and wall-mounted versions. Another option for reducing 12-volt electric consumption is to replace ordinary incandescent and even fluorescent bulbs with LEDs. Fluorescent used to be the most economical, but LEDs use even less power and provide more pleasant light. LEDs use a fraction of the power of incandescent bulbs and often provide brighter light. LEDS can be used in interior lights and in stop/tail lights and clearance markers. Because they respond more quickly than incandescent bulbs, LED stop lights provide and extra margin of safety. The estimates I've seen say they give about 17' more notice and stopping distance at highway speeds, which could prevent getting rear-ended. The only down side to LEDs is that, at least for now, they are fairly expensive. A replacement for a single interior bulb will run you $8-$10. Regular incandescent bulbs cost under $1.00 each. When you factor in the energy savings and the fact that LEDs will probably outlive both you and your RV and never need replacing again, they may be well worth the investment. They certainly will significantly reduce battery drain when dry camping.  All LEDs are not the same so do your homework and choose carefully.  Some have a very white light that some people find offensive but there are "warmer" colors that are less harsh.  Depending on the rating, LEDs might not provide as much light as incandescent bulbs, so you might want to be selective where you use them.  They are ideal for porch lights where you don't need a lot of light and it is convenient to leave the light on for extended periods of time.  I've found them pretty good for general interior illumination but I still favor incandescent bulbs for reading lights and work areas.  More powerful LEDs might solve this problem, but they're a lot more expensive.

Solar panels can be used to recharge batteries. Small, inexpensive units that plug into a cigarette lighter socket can help maintain batteries while the unit is in storage but are usually not enough to be of much use in camp when the batteries are being drained by lights, furnace fan, etc. Larger solar charging systems are available that will aid in recharging batteries but these are relatively expensive and will most likely require professional installation on the roof of your RV. Recently some higher powered portable battery charging solar systems have come onto the market. They are easy to set up and easy to use and require no permanent installation, which are clear advantages. However, they are NOT cheap. Currently prices run $600 - $800!

Wind generators. I have seen some small, portable wind generators that can be used to aid in recharging RV batteries, but most people find them too cumbersome to transport and difficult to setup, and they are not cheap! You might build your own using an automobile alternator, but you'll still have the issues of transporting, storing, and setting up the "tower" for the generator, to say nothing of obtaining and attaching blades to run it.

Your best bet for maintaining adequate 12-volt power is to start with enough capacity and keep the batteries charged using your generator and multi-stage charger,your vehicle alternator, or solar charging array. Because of the high capacity and regulated output of vehicle alternators, running your vehicle engine for an hour or so each day is usually the best way to recharge your batteries. Many RVs come with only one coach battery and motorhomes will have a separate starting battery for the vehicle engine. Larger and more expensive RVs may have larger battery banks. You may be able to increase your capacity by increasing the number and/or type of batteries on board. Two types of batteries are good choices for RVs: 12-volt deep cycle batteries, and 6-volt golf cart batteries. Ordinary automotive batteries are not designed for the kind of frequent discharge and recharge cycle of RV batteries. Many RVers use 6-volt golf cart batteries wired in series to produce 12-volts to gain better performance and increased capacity. I have used that configuration in several RVs over many years and found it to be superior to multiple 12-volt batteries wired in parallel. If you find you consistently run out of battery power, look for room to add another battery. If you already have 2 12-volt deep cycle coach batteries you may benefit from converting to two 6-volt golf cart batteries. Two 6-volt golf cart batteries will take up the same space as two 12-volt RV deep cycle batteries, but will deliver better performance. If you need to add batteries, locate them in a vented exterior cabinet. Batteries give off toxic and flammable fumes while they are being charged. If you find you have a bad battery in a battery bank, replace all the batteries in the bank at the same time. Make sure you understand the connections required for the configuration you are using. 6-volt batteries must be wired with pairs in series to provide the 12-volt power needed by your RV. That means connecting the ground of one battery to the vehicle ground, connecting its positive terminal to the negative terminal of its mate, then connecting the positive terminal of the mate to the vehicle 12-volt supply. Multiple 12-volt batteries must be wired in parallel. That is the negative terminals of both batteries must be connected to the vehicle ground and the positive terminals of both batteries connect to the vehicle 12-volt supply. Improperly connecting 6-volt batteries will leave you with inadequate voltage to operate on-board equipment. Improperly connecting 12-volt batteries will overload the 12-volt system on your RV, probably destroying the converter and any other directly connected devices and possible causing a fire! If you are using more than 2 6-volt batteries, each pair must be wired in series, then the pairs connected in parallel, to provide 12-volt power.

Conserving water. RVs have a limited amount of water. Be sure you know what the capacity of your RV is. If your RV is equipped with working tank gauges, be sure to monitor your usage. Typically, the smaller the RV, the smaller the fresh water and holding tanks. Class C motorhomes traditionally carried about 25 gallons of fresh water. Some newer models have larger capacity. Larger Class A units often have 80-100 gallons.  Mid sized Class A's may have smaller tanks.  Fresh water capacity of travel trailers varies wildly. Truck campers and Class B van conversions may have as little as 5 gallons. Like motorhomes, a travel trailer's fresh water capacity varies according to size from make to make and from model to model. Know what the capacity of your fresh water system is so you can ration water usage to last through your outing or until you can replenish your supply. Many RVers carry extra water in 5-6 gallon water cans, gallon jugs, or expandable bladders available from RV supply stores. I've even hauled an extra 55 gallon drum of water in our pickup for desert camping in our motorhome when we were using a pickup truck to tow our motorcycle trailer. To conserve water, use as little as possible for each task. Instead of rinsing dirty dishes, wipe them off with paper towels, used paper napkins, or old newspapers. Another option is to collect cold water in a dishpan while you're running the shower to get it warm and use that for rinsing dishes and other chores that don't require hot water. When you use the shower or washing your hands, only run the water when you need to -- to wet down or to rinse away soap. Turn it off while you are soaping, shampooing, and scrubbing. I added an inline push-button on-off device to the shower head so I didn't have to change the hot/cold adjustment to turn the shower off. Listen and watch for evidence of leakage. A water pump that cycles frequently when no water is being used or a hissing sound or a unexplained soaked spot in the carpet or on a wall are typical signs of a leak in the plumbing system. One of my dirt biking friends had a unique solution to his teenage kids using too much water while desert camping. He had a son and a daughter and the daughter had very long hair she thought she needed to shampoo and condition at least every day. They ran out of water frequently until he came up with a solution. He labeled some gallon jugs with the kids' names and brought along one gallon for each kid for showering each day and made them use the jugs instead of running the shower. If they wanted to use up all their jugs for one shower, that was OK -- they just didn't get to shower the rest of the trip. That way the kids used only their own water and didn't deplete the supply needed for cooking etc. Another shower solution is to use a "Sun Shower". These are plastic bags you fill with water and lay them out for the water to be heated by the sun. They are quite effective and can be used while tent camping as well as an alternative to wasting your RV's hot water supply. Using a Sunshower also saves propane by letting the sun heat the water and helps ration water usage. Its easier to see how much water you're using as the bag deflates than when just watching it go down the drain in the shower! The Sunshower can be used outdoors or in the RV shower. They are easy to turn on and off and provide a water at a constant temperature.

Conserving holding tank usage. Conserving water automatically conserves gray water tank usage. There isn't much you can do to conserve black water tank filling unless there are restrooms available.  Make use of campground facilities when you can.  But when you got to go, you got to go! You may want to flush sparingly, but using too little water for flushing will cause a very unpleasant and potentially damaging build up of solid wastes in the black water tank. One way to boost liquid in the black water tank without wasting water is to dump the dishpan of water collected during shower start up and used to rinse dishes into the toilet. If your gray water tank is becoming too full you may be able to drain off a bucketful or two to put out your fire each night. DO NOT try that with black water! If the black water tank fills up you will need to either get to a dump station quick or use one of the portable "blue" closed holding tanks to drain and dispose properly of some of the contents. If you are in a campground with any kind of restroom facilities, use them to reduce the demand on your black water tank. I know, the pit toilets in some places are really foul. But that's nothing compared to how foul will your RV become if your black water tank backs up! I don't think you want to find out! Enduring even the dirtiest pit toilet for a few minutes beats suffering a major black water overflow in your RV that can result in a lot of nasty cleanup and extremely unpleasant conditions for a very, very long time. Replacing badly fouled flooring can be very expensive.  If sewage gets into the sub-floor it will create a nasty problem that can be very, VERY expensive and time consuming to repair.

Conserving propane. Your options for conserving propane are somewhat limited. Obvious choices are to not run the furnace or the stove unless necessary and limit the use of hot water. There is often much discussion about whether maintaining hot water all the time or re-heating it when needed conserves the most gas. Running it all the time is certainly the most convenient. Most recent expert advice I've seen says you will use less propane if you run the hot water heater only when you need it and turn it off if you're not going to be using it for a while. For example, turn it off at night, then turn it on when you get up in the morning, then turn if off after morning ablations and breakfast dishes are done. Turn it back on in the evening for dinner and evening showers or wash ups, then turn it off again over night. Some us enjoy a nice hot shower first thing in the morning so turning off the hot water heater isn't as desirable unless you can discipline yourself to get up and turn it on long enough before your shower to let the water get hot. Just remember, keeping it hot all night might mean you might be wasting fuel and could  more easily run out of propane before the end of the trip! Personally, I like having hot water always available.  You never know when you're going to need to wash up or tend to a medical emergency.  And some folks believe it actually takes less propane to keep the tank hot than to reheat it from scratch over and over.  Another way to save propane without sacrificing hot water on demand would be to switch from the standard tank style water heater to a tankless, on demand water heater. They are not cheap and require professional installation, but it is something to consider if you do a lot of boondocking. A good way to conserve propane on cooler days is to reduce the heat loss from your RV so the furnace doesn't have to work as hard. Insulate windows and roof vents, keep weather stripping in good condition. Limit opening doors and windows as much as possible. Also, wear a sweater or sweatshirt to allow you to keep the furnace at a lower setting. You will also be surprised how much heat the human body generates. Recently at Christmas here in Utah with outside temperatures well below freezing, our small house was too warm to light a holiday fire in the fireplace, even with the electric heat turned off, just from the body heat of about 20 guests! Unless you have a huge mansion on wheels with multiple slide outs, you're not going to get 20 people into your RV, but if you limit heat loss, the body heat of your family will help keep everyone warm and toasty and minimize propane needs. If you are plugged into shore power or are running your generator to power appliances or charge your batteries, a portable electric heater can supplement your furnace and reduce propane usage (unless your generator runs on propane!). Make sure the heater is placed so it won't ignite curtains or upholstery or scorch walls, flooring or counter tops. Don't put heaters in the aisle where you might kick them over. A fun option is to use a portable electric fireplace, which adds a cabin-like ambiance while providing supplemental heat -- if you have room to use it safely and 120-volt power to run it.

A good guideline for all resources: take it easy. Remember that you don't have the apparently unlimited supplies of water, electricity and gas that you do at home, even though the appliances may look and work similar. And don't deprive yourself of the benefits of your RV systems just to save water, power, or fuel, but be reasonable so you can enjoy them throughout your trip and not just on the first day!

Practice! You can develop good habits by practicing conservation every day at home. Think about how you use your water. Do you leave the faucet running while you brush your teeth or wash your hands? If that is your habit you will probably do it when you're in your RV. Practice turning off the water except when you actually need it. You might even save a little money on your water bill, but even if you don't, it will help you use proper procedures when camping.

Make it last!

Getting A Good Night's Rest In Camp

Getting a good night's rest is essential to enjoying your outings whether you're camping in a luxury RV or a simple tent. For many people it is an after thought, or not thought of at all until they find themselves lying awake tossing and turning for hours and hours, and not knowing why. They kind of assume it will just happen because they sleep at home every night -- more or less. After all, it is a natural thing to sleep when you get tired and the variety of camping activities that are outside our normal day to day routine will probably make you even more tired than usual.  Sometimes when you are over tired it is difficult to sleep.  Moreover, nights in camp may take some getting used to.  You will be in a different environment that you are used to.  Different sights, sounds, and smells; different bed.  You may have other campers much closer to you than even your family is at home.  You may be keyed up by the day's activities or by anticipating what you're going to do tomorrow.

Sleep is not a luxury and is not optional. You will not enjoy your trip much if you're worn out -- and fatigue can introduce extra potential for accidents and injuries. Make sure you are prepared to get a good night's rest. Just because you are tired doesn't mean you're going to sleep well.  In fact, being over tired sometimes make sleep even more elusive. I can't count the number of times I've been dog tired and laid there staring at the ceiling for hours, mostly due to my mind racing -- reliving the day's activities or planning tomorrow's -- or fretting about things I should just forget, at least for the time being!  And that is at home!  It can be even worse in camp.  That is one of the biggest deterrents to getting to sleep:  thinking too much!  It is also one of the hardest things to fix, because the more we think about trying to go to sleep, the more our brains keep us awake.  It is an easy thing to say "clear your mind" but not such an easy thing to do.  That is why time-honored techniques such as counting sheep are effective -- focusing on counting helps you let go of the other more complex and frustrating thoughts and gives you a better chance of falling asleep.  Try to avoid rigorous intellectual activities just before retiring, especially things like arguments or heated discussions that stir up powerful emotions and set your mind (and often your heart) racing.  Sometimes a mild herbal tea or other sleep aid such as valerian or melatonin can also help you to relax, but a camping trip is not the best place to experiment with things you haven't already tried out at home.

Clear your mind of distractions that might keep you awake.  Make sure your campfire is dead out and everything is secure before you hit the sack.  Check to make sure your OHVs or bikes are locked up.  If its windy make sure everything is tied down.  Camping usually provides enough unusual things to disturb your slumber without adding unnecessary worries to the list.  You don't want to realize after you've snuggled into bed that you forgot to turn off the gas on your OHV, left the campfire burning, or left your tool box sitting out to be dampened by rain or dew or to be stolen.  One way to relax is to make sure you have taken care of everything that needs to be taken care of before bedtime.  Make it a habit to turn off the fuel after every ride and to put your tools away every time you use them.

Camping, in a tent or an RV, is a unique experience for most people -- at least to start with. You are in a strange place and a strange bed, with strange sounds and strange smells and you've probably been involved in activities all day long that you don't normally participate in. Unusual activities may result in unusual aches and pains and levels of excitement that can keep you awake.  Take advantage of your favorite pain reliever to help get you past those new ouchies. You may just be "wound up" by the day's activities or thinking about your plans for tomorrow and find it hard to relax. Clearing your mind is essential. If you keep replaying recent events or planning tomorrows activities, you'll have a really hard time getting to sleep. In addition, being in strange surroundings heightens our natural and instinctive fear. Chances are you are perfectly safe, but being in unfamiliar surroundings instinctively puts your body on high alert. Bad weather further exacerbates your discomfort. Fortunately, sleeping in an RV provides most of the comforts of home, but just like sleeping in a hotel, it is different than being at home. Bring along your favorite blankets and pillows if you like and if you have room for them. The more familiar your surroundings, the better you will sleep. Avoid caffeinated drinks and excessive consumption of alcohol after about 2:00 pm. Set the temperature of your RV furnace about the same as the night setting at home. You may find that you need to adjust it a little the first few nights until you find what is comfortable for you and your family in your RV. On hot summer nights you may need to leave some windows and a roof vent open and sleep on top of the covers -- at least until it cools down. You are probably not used to having the kids or grandkids as close as they will be in the RV and they will probably be restless -- and noisy. Do what you can to make their sleeping environment as familiar and comfortable as possible for their comfort and to ensure your own uninterrupted sleep. If the blinds or curtains do not block light from coming in from outside, hang a towel or blanket over the windows to ensure consistent darkness for good sleep. Inserts made from windshield sunshades or cut from reflective bubble-foam insulation such as Reflectix brand are very effective ways to block light and insulate your RV. They help keep it warmer in cold times and cooler in hot times. Light from campfires, other campers, passing vehicles, parking lot lights, and even moonlight will seem brighter and more annoying than at home. Interestingly enough, on moonless nights, it may be much darker than you are accustomed to at home and that is sometimes disturbing. Having a low amperage LED night light may be a comfort in this situation as well as making it easier to find your way to the bathroom, get a drink of water, or to adjust the thermostat.  Try to adhere to your normal routine as much as possible.  The more familiar things feel, the easier it is going to be to get to relax and get to sleep.

Sleeping in an RV. Sleeping in an RV is much like sleeping at home -- or more like in a hotel or motel. You usually have a furnace or heater to maintain a comfortable temperature and sufficient structure to keep out the elements, insects, animals and other potential intruders. You will be sleeping on a mattress or cushions. You may sleep in sleeping bags or ordinary bedding. Choose what will be most comfortable and convenient for you. Initially set the thermostat on the furnace near where yours is normally set at night at home, then adjust it up or down according to your needs. You may find it needs to be higher or lower than at home depending on weather, bedding, and how well insulated your RV is. The number of people may also affect the heat requirements. A number of bodies in an enclosed space can generate a lot of heat.  Follow your normal bedtime routine as closely as possible to give yourself the best chance of getting a good night's sleep. Chances are your schedule isn't going to match what you do at home, especially if you hang out around the campfire at night. Don't stress over it, just do the best you can. If you find staying up past your normal bedtime makes it hard for you to get to sleep, try hitting the sack at your normal bedtime. It may be worth it to sacrifice some social time at night to be more energetic and sociable for the next day's activities. The more you sleep in your RV, the more normal it will become until one day (or night) you will be just as comfortable there, if not more so, as you are at home. If possible, wear the same thing to bed in your RV that you do at home.  If you find your RV mattress isn't comfortable, it can be replaced or augmented with a mattress pad or topper to make it more to your liking.  A good memory foam mattress topper will do wonders for an old, uncomfortable or otherwise inadequate mattress.  They aren't too expensive and are easy to install.

Sleeping in a tent requires significantly more adjustments. Your physical environment will be very different from home, unless you are normally a desert nomad. There isn't much you can do to change your basic physical environment, except be prepared for what you will experience and make yourself and other family members as comfortable as possible. With only the thin fabric or your tent between you and the world you will be far more susceptible to outside sounds and smells -- and weather. The tent itself will rustle in the breeze. You will probably be sleeping on a thin sleeping pad or unfamiliar air mattress. Using foam tiles to cover the floor of your tent will add a little extra padding and insulation to increase your comfort. Camp cots make some people more comfortable, but they still lack the reliable, comfortable, and familiar soft support of a good mattress. Some people find they feel claustrophobic in sleeping bags. If you are one of them, unzip your sleeping bag or use ordinary blankets and quilts. Remember, the more familiar you can make it, the better. Any little breeze may cause the tent to flap enough or nearby branches to make enough noise to disturb your slumber. Insects that may have found their way inside your tent may annoy you throughout the night. Insects and animals outside the tent may make unfamiliar noises that are distressing. Other members of your family that share your tent may be restless and have trouble sleeping and that may disturb your own slumber. Even when sleeping in a tent you and your kids may find having favorite blankets and pillows (and teddy bears!) greatly increases your comfort level and reduces your stress. Much of the discomfort comes from simply not knowing what is going on. When we recognize and understand the unfamiliar sounds and smells, we are less apt to develop unfounded concerns. Our imaginations can quickly turn the rustling of nearby branches by a light breeze into sounds of some monstrous beast about to devour us or our kids or our pets if we aren't prepared for it. While younger children are more likely to overtly show their fear and anxiety, even mature adults can find that "things that go bump in the night" quite disconcerting in unfamiliar circumstances. If you find sleeping in a tent disturbingly uncomfortable, you might want to try some variations, such as a truck-tent in the back of a pickup or sleeping in the car or try camping in your own backyard until you get used to it. If that still doesn't work, take the next step: try an RV. Even a simple tent trailer gets you up off the ground and provides more familiarity, creature comforts, and perceived security than a simple tent, but you still have only canvas between you and much of the world. And don't forget the option to set up your tent in your own backyard and get a few nights "practice sleep" before venturing out into the "unknown". Doing so minimizes the variables and lets you adjust a little at a time to the new sensations. 

Regardless of your camping style, having an adequate bed is essential to getting enough sleep.  For RVs and boats that means a good mattress.  For tent camping it might mean a good sleeping pad.  See my post on Sleeping Pads and Mattresses for additional information.

Pajamas. If you are used to wearing pajamas at home, bring them along. If you are camping in cold weather, you may want to substitute fleece jammies with bunny feet for your regular light weight home wear. The basic rule is still, maintain as much familiarity as possible. In warm weather, stick to the light weight stuff or even wear lighter versions. Sleeping nude may give some relief from excessive heat, but not everyone feels comfortable with this option even at home, let alone when camping. Sometimes summer nights can get quite cool, but I've also seen it stay too hot to sleep all night long. You won't likely be able to run the A/C in your RV unless you are in a campground with electricity and even then there might be restrictions because A/Cs are noisy. Even if you are boondocking and not restricted by formal "quiet hours", you shouldn't run you generator after about 10:00 pm or before 7:00 am. Furthermore, running the generator while you're sleeping could subject you to potential carbon monoxide poisoning from the exhaust and you'll never wake up! Better to find other ways to keep cool at night than risk being permanently cold!  A 12-volt fan can often move enough air to keep you comfortable.  Or just open the roof vent(s) and a window or two.  Opening the roof vent allows hot air (which rises) to escape out the top of the RV, drawing fresh, cooler air in through open (and screened) windows.  Often that is all it takes to create enough of a breeze to keep you comfortable.  Sometimes RV A/Cs are too noisy to run at night -- if not for you inside, it may be too noisy outside for your neighbors.  So even if you have A/C and are in a full hookup campground, you may need to plan for alternate ways to keep cool at night.  One handy trick is to spritz yourself with water from a spray bottle now and then.

Sleeping in your clothing. Some people like sleeping in their clothing while camping, in case they have to make a middle of the night trip to the bathroom or in case of some other emergency or fear of being seen by strangers. Some think they'll stay warmer in their clothing, but that isn't always true. If you do choose to sleep in your clothes, remove bulky items from your pockets before retiring. Lying on your keys or wallet can cause a lot of pain by morning. I once fell asleep sitting in a lounge chair and my wallet cut off circulation to the point that my leg literally would not support me and buckled when I tried to stand up. It was days before I regained full normal use of that leg! For the most part, you will be most comfortable if you are able to dress (or undress) the same as you do at home. Remember, familiarity is your friend. You'll have enough strangeness that you can't change without adding to it by further altering normal behavior. Sometimes sleeping in your clothing actually makes you feel colder. Clothing may cause you to sweat inside a sleeping bag, or you may have already been sweating before you go to bed and your clothes are already damp -- then you get chilled. Damp clothing will leave you cold all night long. Better to take it off, hopefully before it gets more damp wearing it inside your sleeping bag. When sleeping in our RV, I always hang my clothes on convenient hooks in the bedroom so they can air and dry out during the night and where they'll be handy if I have to get up in the middle of the night. When sleeping in a tent, especially in cold weather, I like to roll my clothes up and put them in the bottom of my sleeping bag so they'll be somewhat warm to put on in the morning. Of course, don't try that if your clothes are wet or damp from rain or sweat--hang them out to dry before tucking them inside your sleeping bag.  If your clothes are damp when you go to bed, hang them up inside your tent so they have some chance of drying out before morning.  I promise you won't like putting on cold, damp clothes in the morning.

Sleep aids. There are lots of over the counter and prescription sleeping pills available but I would recommend using them only if you find you simply cannot get to sleep without them and only after checking with your doctor. Of course, if you routinely use sleep medications at home, you should probably continue to use them when you are camping, but I wouldn't recommend experimenting with something new "on the road". If you MUST take something, I would suggest trying a gentle, natural option, such as valerian or melatonin before moving onto to stronger commercial preparations with more potential side affects. If you have serious problems sleeping you might want to contact your doctor for safe prescription medications for future trips. In the unlikely event that something DOES go wrong in the middle of the night, you don't want to be groggy or unable to wake up! Also, you don't want to be experiencing potential side effects for the first time when you're in unfamiliar surroundings and with limited resources to combat them. Plus, you don't want to learn what side effects the medication may have through trial and error in unfamiliar circumstances. Your favorite over-the-counter pain reliever should take care of those pesky aches and pains that come from over-doing unfamiliar activities and make it easier to sleep if pain is keeping you awake. Don't wait for sore muscles to cramp and become very painful. Take something when you first begin to experience discomfort. It is easier to stave off serious pain than try to eliminate it. This is especially true of muscle pain where pain causes tension which causes more pain.  Dehydration can lead to severe muscle cramps so be sure to drink plenty or water or electrolytes.  If you wake up with heat cramps, drink some pickle juice or salt water to replenish your liquid and electrolytes.  We've found pickle juice to be particularly effective, especially if you hold some under your tongue for immediate absorption into the blood stream. It may be just a placebo effect, but it seems that the relief begins instantly with the first taste of pickle brine.

Lighting. If your are sleeping in an RV, close the curtains or blinds. If they do not shut out the light from street lights, traffic, moonlight, or other campers sufficiently, try putting towels or blankets over the windows or putting folding windshield covers between the curtains or shades and the window to block the light. For many years I have made covers to fit all the windows in my RV, made of silvery, reflective bubble-foam insulation. At first I just modified cheap auto windshield sunshades, then I bought a big roll of reflective foam insulation at a big box home center and cut pieces to fit all the windows. This foam is thicker than typical windshield covers and offers better insulation and can be cut to fit each window exactly. Being thicker, it is also a little stiffer and stays in place better. I cut mine so they're just slightly larger than the openings so they fit tightly and stay in place. These covers help keep the heat out during hot summer days, keep heat in on cold nights, and block unwanted light at night or nap time. The light from a full moon, or even just star light may be enough to keep you awake. To me, the moon and stars always seems brighter when I'm out camping. Perhaps because the skies are clearer than they are back home and there is less ambient light from street lights, traffic, and buildings. Keep in mind that any change in lighting, brighter or even darker than you're used to, can make it harder to get to sleep. Moonless nights or camping under a deep forest canopy may be a lot darker than it is at home with street lights and other lights in the neighborhood spilling into your windows. Controlling light inside a tent is a bit more difficult. Many tents have a rain fly that goes over the tent. Although the primary function is to divert direct rain from the main part of the tent, they also provide additional shade from moonlight or other unwanted light. If your tent does not have a rain fly or if you still need more light-blocking than the rain fly provides, try tossing a tarp over the outside of the tent and tying it down or hanging blanket over your sleeping area inside the tent. If it is TOO dark, turn on a small LED flashlight. LED "tea lights" are inexpensive and about the right amount of illumination for a night light. Lightning and thunder can be startling and many people are genuinely frightened by it. You should be pretty safe in your RV, unless you've parked under a tall tree or pole that might attract lightning. If you're in a tent, make sure you have it tied down securely before you retire and are not under or near a tall object that might attract lightning or in a depression or gully that may fill up during a storm. A tarp over the top might help temper the brightness of lightning flashes but you'll pretty much just have to deal with the rumbling of the thunder -- or wear ear plugs. In a pinch, try pulling the blankets over your head like you might have done as a kid. Make sure you stay warm. Nothing will spoil a good night's sleep faster than being cold. Until you know how well your sleeping bag will do in cold weather, keep an extra blanket or two or a second sleeping bag handy in case you get cold during the night. It is not unusual for nighttime temperatures in some mountain and desert areas to drop into the 40s after being near 100 during the day.

Storms. Eventually, if you do more than just a little camping, you're going to get caught in a storm. Sleeping through a storm is largely a matter of preparation. I found myself seriously worried during one very windy night. We were sleeping in the overhead bunk in our little Class C motorhome, which was not stabilized by leveling jacks so the body rolled with every gust. We happened to be parked so the wind hit the left side of the vehicle. The winds were fierce enough and the rocking violent enough that I spent most of the night lying awake and actually planning how we would escape through a roof vent when the RV was blown over onto the side with the entry door! It really was rocking that badly! If our unit had been stabilized by leveling jacks -- or even parked so it was headed into the wind instead of broadside, it would have not been rocked so violently by the winds and I probably would have gotten a better night's sleep. If you own a motorhome, camper, or travel trailer without leveling jacks, consider at least adding stabilizers that will brace the body of the unit against the ground instead of leaving it to bounce on the springs that connect it to the axles. Stabilizing jacks come in a set of 4 for about $40.00 for standard height. Larger ones may be required for big motorhomes and trailers or you may have to set them on sturdy blocks. Scissor jacks are mostly used on travel trailers but can sometimes be adapted to moderate sized motorhomes. They are easier to use since they are permanently attached to the vehicle frame. You will greatly improve the solid feel of the unit and be more likely to sleep through storms. Simply leveling the unit by using leveling blocks under the wheels won't stabilize the body, which will still bounce on the suspension. If a storm is imminent, roll up your awnings and secure them in the travel position before retiring. Head your RV into the wind if possible. Also put away any loose camping gear, like camp chairs and dining flys and tie down any items that are left out. At a minimum, we ALWAYS fold up our camp chairs at night. I've seen more than one chair burned beyond recognition when an evening breeze blew it over onto the smoldering remains of a campfire after everyone had retired. Of course good fire safety calls for making sure your campfire is dead out before your leave it, but I've often seen fires left smoldering at desert camp sites with errant chairs being the only victims. Still, a breeze could easily blow embers against your tent or under your RV or OHV or other vehicle and start a fire, so the best course is to make sure all fires are dead out before you go to bed. If, for example, you go to bed while others hang out around the campfire, put your camp chairs away or at least fold them flat before retiring -- in case the others go to bed without putting out the fire or taking care of your chairs. If you are the last one out, as a courtesy to your fellow campers, make sure all the chairs left around the campfire are folded flat and moved some distance from the fire. A strong breeze might still pick them up, but they are safer than standing up when even a light breeze can launch them tumbling to a smoldering death.

Dealing with storms if you are tent camping is a little more difficult. Tents provide a surprising amount of protection against the elements, but they are still quite susceptible to wind and rain. I've often been surprised how much warmer it is inside a thin nylon tent when it's cold outside. It blocks the breeze and retains a surprising amount of body heat. Gentle rain isn't usually a problem, in fact it can often be quite soothing, but high winds or a downpour can be very disturbing and can have serious consequences. Our kids insisted on sleeping in a tent outside our RV one night -- until it rained, a lot. About 2:00 am they came pounding on the RV door. The tent blown was flat and filled with water and their sleeping bags and clothing were totally soaked. If you are caught in severe weather make sure your tent is securely anchored and your rain fly is in place. If you don't have a rain fly, rig a tarp over the tent so it takes the brunt of the storm. Make sure you haven't set your tent up in a depression where water will accumulate or in the path of runoff from nearby hills or off the roof of your RV or nearby structures. If you can, add a waterproof tarp over your tent and anchor is securely, even if you already have a rain fly. Most tent fabrics are water resistant but rain will wick through or may be driven through by high winds or heavy, steady rain. Heavy canvas tents are more waterproof than their light weight nylon counterparts, but the fabric can still eventually become waterlogged if it rains long and hard enough. Keep your sleeping bags, packs, clothing, and body parts etc away from the walls of the tent as anything that touches the inside will draw moisture through the fabric or collect the moisture that condenses on the inside. Try to pitch your tent where it is as sheltered as possible from wind and rain. If you find your tent isn't providing enough protection, seek shelter in your vehicle. If you are in a developed campground, you may find some respite under canopies over picnic areas or in the clubhouse or a maintenance shed. Be sure to check with the campground hosts before entering any buildings or occupying any unauthorized spaces. If your tent is securely anchored and you have adequate bedding, you should be able to weather all but the most severe storms in relative comfort and surviving a storm will make a great campfire story for years to come.  If you are too uncomfortable in your tent, try sleeping inside your vehicle, if there is room.  Full size sedans, SUVs and pickups usually have room for one or two people to sleep.  You might have to pull you knees up in a pseudo-fetal position in small compact vehicles, but just getting in out of the weather and the flapping of the tent in a storm may be enough to help you make it through the night in relative comfort.  In a real pinch you can run the vehicle for a short time and use the heater to help you dry off and warm up.  Don't let it continue to idle while you're sleeping or you may get exhaust fumes inside that can kill you.

Sleep when the wind blows. I recall the story of a farmer who hired a lad to help out one summer. He asked the boy what he thought was his strongest attribute. The boy said "I can sleep when the wind blows." The old farmer didn't think much of that whimsical response and thought the boy was just being flippant or arrogant until several weeks later when a storm hit the farm. He went to wake the boy to help him batten everything down and couldn't rouse him. Angry with the boy, the old man stomped out into the storm to take care of the farm alone. He discovered the cows and horses were already safe in the barn, all the doors closed, all the gates were securely latched, and even the trash cans had been moved inside so they wouldn't blow over. He couldn't find anything that hadn't already been done ahead of time -- by the boy. It was only then that he began to understand the significance of the boy's pronouncement. The boy had seen the signs of the approaching storm and had taken all the steps necessary to prepare for it. Having done so he could comfortably sleep when the wind blows. Whenever we are camping, whether in a tent or an RV, we should take our cue from the farm lad and take care of everything we need to take care of BEFORE the storm actually hits.  Doing it in the wind or rain or snow when storm arrives will be very difficult and uncomfortable, maybe even dangerous.  Then we, too, can sleep when the wind blows. Believe me, you won't be able to sleep if you're listening to your camp chairs or awnings blowing around outside or worrying about your dirt bike being blown over.

Practice. They say practice makes perfect. The more you sleep in your RV or your tent, the more familiar and comfortable you will become doing so. Eventually, you will be as comfortable there as you are at home. You can practice without going anywhere. Try sleeping in your RV or tent at home for a few nights to get used to it. Then, when you ARE out and about and in a really new and strange place, you will have already adjusted to some of the variables and be more likely to be able to welcome the sandman. You will also have had a chance to work on temperature, lighting, bedding, and night clothing in a less-intimidating environment so you can relax and rest in camp. When tent camping, I like to stuff my clothes down inside my sleeping bag so they'll be safe from overnight moisture and be warm to put on in the morning. Leaving them lying or hanging in the tent is OK, but they may absorb moisture from the air (including that contributed by your own breathing) and may be cold and damp to put on in the morning. The moisture from your breathing is likely to condense on the inside of the tent, creating light rain inside when the fabric moves, either from you moving around or touching it or from outside breezes.

No matter how you prepare, you may still encounter unexpected environmental attacks on your serenity. We've been where freight trains lumbered past in the middle of the night, just a few yards away, and, unfortunately, we were close enough to the crossing where the road to the campground crossed the tracks that we could hear the train horn and the bells on the crossing signals clanging for what seemed like hours. Hear heck! The volume of that train horn nearly blew us out of bed by the shear force of the sound waves! Of course we were aware of the existence of the tracks even before we selected the campground, but since we had been told they were "inactive" and seldom used, we hadn't given them much thought -- until we were rudely awakened in the middle of the night. Unless you live near railroad tracks at home and are used to trains passing in the night, such an occurrence is bound to shake you from even the deepest sleep. Traffic near a freeway, highway, truck stop, fire house, police/sheriff station or a hospital may have a similar affect. If you think any of these will be a problem, try to check out potential camp sites in advance and avoid noisy locations. In some cases you may get lucky and be able to get assigned a more remote site within a campground, but for the most part you'll need to simply avoid campgrounds near offensive locations altogether.  In the case of our railroad encounter there were no "remote" sites.  All the sites were strung out between the railroad tracks and the beach.  Some folks find the sound of the surf soothing. If you're not one of them, you might want to avoid camping near the beach or close to a stream. If you are camping in primitive locations you may experience animal sounds you're not used to. We've done enough desert camping to actually welcome the nightly coyote serenades, but if you're not used to it, you may find their concert disconcerting. Especially if you're sleeping in a tent and feel vulnerable.  If so you might want to try to disguise or hide the sounds with soft music. I recommend using a battery powered portable audio device so you won't run the risk of running down your RV batteries or vehicle batteries. Headphones might help keep outside sounds outside -- if you find them comfortable to wear. Or just buy some cheap earplugs. The little foam cones used by construction workers are sold by the dozens in boxes, bottles, and bags at hardware stores and home centers. They are inexpensive and surprisingly effective. And they're small enough and light enough to even take back packing.   By the way, coyotes are not especially aggressive but other large mammals, such as wolves, bears and mountain lions are sometimes.  If you are tent camping in bear or mountain lion country, be sure to get and follow advice from the local rangers on how you and your pets can avoid becoming their next meal or midnight snack.

Home remedies. Tradition has it that a glass of warm milk will help you sleep. My wife recently had that recently confirmed by on-line research which suggested adding a spoonful of honey to a glass of warm milk. It works for her. The same article cautioned against drinking hot chocolate before going to bed. The warm drink is soothing and tasty, but chocolate does contain enough caffeine to interrupt sleep patterns. Some herbal teas can be soothing and help induce sleep.  Not sure how effective "counting sheep" may be (seems pretty boring to me), but relaxation exercises are a pretty good bet. Start with your toes and work your way up one section at a time. Tighten the muscles and let them relax while taking slow, deep breaths and telling yourself to relax. Imagine yourself in the most relaxing and comforting environment possible. I like lying on a a gentle, grassy slope, watching puffy white clouds drift across a clear blue sky on a lazy summer afternoon. Try to avoid thinking too hard and stressing over they day's activities or tomorrow's plans. Racing thoughts are one of the biggest deterrents to getting to sleep, so try to clear your mind and relax. It is easy to say but very hard to do.  Pain can also be a sleep deterrent. If your body aches from the day's exertions, you may benefit from an OTC pain reliever. If you frequently suffer from chronic pain and have a prescription for it, make appropriate use of it.  Gentle stretching exercises before bed can sometimes relieve tight muscles and improve circulation, making it easier to relax. And don't forget your teddy bear! Hugging a familiar object, even a pillow, (a live partner is even better!) can be comforting and aid relaxation. Heat cramps, a result of dehydration, are very painful. Make sure you drink enough water and electrolytes during the day. If you experience cramps at night, drink a half cup of pickle juice or salt water to replenish your electrolytes. We've found pickle juice particularly effective. Whether purely psychological or as a result of instant absorption of electrolytes under the tongue, it often brings immediate relief.

A good night's sleep is NOT a luxury and is not optional. Even if you are in survival mode, you should strive to get sufficient sleep every night. During normal camping activities you are going to need to be well rested for the next day's scheduled activities. In survival mode, you need to be as alert as possible if you are going to survive. No matter what your situation, do everything you can to ensure a comfortable bed, acceptable temperatures, and freedom from pain and stress. If you still can't get enough sleep, try taking an afternoon nap to help your body recover. But keep in mind that napping can also make it harder to get to sleep at night if you overdo it.

Sweet dreams!

Planning Your Summer Camping/RV Vacation

When should you start planning your summer vacation? How about NOW? The more time you have to plan, the more options you can explore and the more thorough your planning can be. The more thorough your planning, the more successful your trip and the more fun you'll have. You probably need to start by selecting the time: when you can go and for how long. That may introduce certain restrictions on destinations and travel methods and time. Even in the "lower 48", some mountain passes and interesting destinations at higher elevations are closed late into the summer. Next, select a destination or route. Not all trips have to GO somewhere, often the journey itself is what is important. Following California Highway 49, for example, takes you along much of the route traveled by gold seekers in the famous California Gold Rush and includes many mines, museums, and other historical sites. Other routes follow portions of the Oregon trail or the route taken by Lewis and Clark. There will be many historical things to see along this kind of route.  For many of us, summer vacation is a time to visit family in a distant city. That was often the case when my kids were growing up and our summer vacations were mostly spent visiting Grandma and Grandpa. Many of our trips were so focused on the destination that we failed to enjoy the trip as much as we could have. I can't count how many times we passed by Shasta Caverns in northern California before we finally made time to stop and enjoy visiting them. I suggest leaving a little extra time in each travel day for unplanned side trips. Also, take note of things you see along the way that you might like to do on the next trip so you can include time in next year's trip for them if you don't have time to stop now.

Once you know when and where you are going, start thinking about what you'll need to make the trip successful and fun. Figure out what clothing and equipment you may need for you and your family. Research the route and activities along the way. Try to find reviews from other travelers who have been there before and learn from their experience. Plan your meals and snacks. Sometimes it is fun to include meals that are relevant to the location or activity. You may be able to whip them up in your RV kitchen or might prefer to cook over an open campfire or enjoy a local establishment. It is often fun to do a little bit of all of them.  I've often found that small, local cafes offer extraordinary value as well as sometimes unique cuisine.    Pioneer cuisine is usually well matched for camping.  The basic needs and the facilities available to a wagon train or cattle drive are very similar to our camping needs.

If your trip will include fishing, make sure your fishing gear is in good repair and bone up on what kind of lures you'll need. Make sure any required licenses are up to date or you know how to obtain them on line or en route.

If you are canoeing, inspect your canoe, paddles, and life jackets. This is the time to fix any leaks, smooth the handles, and repair any damage to life jackets.  If you don't already have them, you may also want to acquire waterproof bags or containers to protect your supplies, clothing, and sensitive equipment such as cameras, binoculars, GPS units, cell phones, and two-way radios.  No matter how good you are and how careful you are, canoes are inherently unstable and there's a good chance ti will tip over sooner or later, especially if there are children involved.

Other planned water sports may required special preparation too.  For example, swim suits, beach towels, sun block, shade, and plenty of drinking water.

If you are planning to do some hiking, make sure you have appropriate hiking shoes or boots and that you break them in prior to your trip. If you don't already have them, consider getting some walking sticks.  They can make hiking a lot easier.  Prepare your packs -- first aid kits, snacks, extra clothing, and water. And don't forget any medications you may need. I like to always bring along some pain relievers (aspirin, Tylenol), some antacids, and a good anti-diarrheal medicine as well as any required prescriptions. A simple headache, upset stomach, or "the runs" can quickly ruin an otherwise enjoyable trip -- and these are very common results of traveling and eating unfamiliar foods.

If your plans include horseback riding you'll need to prepare your animals, gear, feed etc.  You may need reservations for corals or stables at or near your destination(s).   Many forest areas where you can ride require certified weed free feed.  If you plan to rent horses, confirm availability and prepare your riding gear.

If you're heading out with your OHVs, you'll need to make sure they are in good repair and properly serviced.  Pack your riding gear, making sure it is also in good order.  Inventory your tools, spare parts, lubricants, etc.  Make sure you have your hydration packs or canteens ready to use.  Bring along plenty of fuel.

If your trip includes museums or historical sites, be sure to do some advance research.   The more you already know the more you will enjoy the sites along the way.

No matter what activity your family chooses, spend a little time now to think about what you will need to bring along to get the most out of it. Our first dirt bike outing could have been a disaster.  Although I had a pretty good tool kit in my motorhome, those SAE tools were pretty much useless on the metric nuts and bolts on our dirt bikes.  And we didn't even a single spare spark plug for the 2-stroke dirt bikes (which foul plugs constantly!).  Start now to stock up on the things and information you'll need. By now you're probably getting tired of me telling you to research attractions along your route and at your destination, but, believe me, it is well worth investing a little time, especially if you are traveling with inquisitive kids or grand kids. They're bound to have endless questions and there is immense satisfaction in being able to answer them and you'll be a hero in their eyes.  And learning that stuff is fun all by itself!

Happy Holidays!

Have Fun!

RVing, camping, and OHVing are all about having fun! Find what is fun for you and your family and do it! There is no single activity that you MUST do. My family and I have found riding dirt bikes to be perfect for us, but even that may need some variety. If you don't like riding in the sand, check out alternate places to ride, like forest or desert trails. If you haven't tried riding in the sand, take a trip to an OHV sand dune venue, beach or someplace with lots of sand washes. You may need special tires to get the most out of riding in the sand. There are lots of different types of OHV terrain so check out local riding areas for what interests you and try out a lot of different venues.

If you're not into any OHV activities, there are still plenty of things you can do to have fun while camping in a tent or RV: fishing, swimming, canoeing, hiking, exploring, birdwatching, beach volleyball, softball, football, or just tossing around a football or frisbe  with family and friends. Heck, even major hotels in Las Vegas (like Circus! Circus!) have RV parking -- and tons of activities for the whole family. And don't forget the campfire. Cooking hotdogs and making s'mores are long-standing traditions. So are sing-a-longs, so bring your guitar, ukelele, harmonica or tambourine and song book and have at it! Story telling is another timeless tradition. Stories that are relevant to the location or the day's activities are always a hit, so you might want to do a little research about where you're going so you have some interesting stories to share.  You can find good stuff about the geology or  history of most places that adds to the overall experience and enjoyment. 

The main thing, is do what is fun for you and your family! Get out of the house, away from the phones, Xbox, TV, and computers, and do something different. Even if you bring your cell phone, TV, and computer with you, which is getting easier and easier to do, getting out can offer a nice change of pace. If your family is into trains, seek out railroad museums and steam locomotive powered train rides. If you like airplanes, there are a number of military and private air museums around the country with acres of unique and historic aircraft to see. If you're big on a particular sports team, you may be able to visit their training camps (be sure to call ahead to see if visitors are permitted). The bottom line is, camping and RVing are a way to get out and do what YOU want to do, not a formal program of their own. Some campgrounds are full resorts by themselves, with golf and other other outdoor and indoor games and swimming, boating, fishing, and other activities. Many are conveniently located near other attractions, like stadiums, fairgrounds, and theme parks.

Many forest service campgrounds offer ranger-led or self-guided nature hikes that give you a chance to learn about the flora, fauna, natural features and man-made history of the area. It is a really fun and educational way to spend a day or two. If you plan ahead you may also be able to research historical and geological history and highlights near your destination and along your route that will add to your enjoyment and appreciation of where you go and what you see. A little research ahead of time can make you a hero to your kids and grand kids -- and amaze your fellow campers.

You may be able to time your trip to coordinate with local events -- festivals, theatrical performances, contests, rodeos, parades, etc. If you learn about an interesting event during your visit, you may want to time your next visit to take advantage of a subsequent occurrence. The Internet is a great source of information. Just "Google" the name of the campground or park or city you'll be visiting along with "things to do" and you're sure to get more than you can easily assimilate.  But remember that popular events will cause campgrounds as well as the events to book up quickly so make your reservations for both far in advance.

Take advantage of the knowledge of your campground hosts and fellow campers. They can often guide you to spectacular views, local eateries, and other local attractions and activities you might otherwise miss. They can also help you avoid rip-offs and roads you really don't want to be driving an RV on.

Bring along your bicycles. Bicycles give you an added degree of freedom to explore the neighborhood without the expense and hassle of towing a "dinghy" vehicle or having to break camp and go off in your RV, which often limits your travels since many of the best local attractions to visit are not accessible to or convenient for large vehicles. On top of that, bicycling is good and easy exercise and is environmentally friendly.

Leave time in your schedule for unplanned side trips. You are very likely to spot signs for or otherwise learn about interesting places to go while you are in route. Encourage your kids to suggest side trips and stops along the way. Their imagination and enthusiasm will be contagious! Just be sure your vehicle can handle the roads BEFORE you get stuck where you can neither proceed nor turn around. In spite of how many of us feel, those road signs that limit vehicle size and weight or not merely there to harass us! They provide valuable information that can prevent vehicle damage, dangerous situations, and lost time. I've seen more than one big motorhome or travel trailer trapped on a narrow road with no way out but to back up. Not a pleasant task.

Plan your meals so they will be fun too.   Focus on simple meals that are easy to prepare and require little setup and clean up.  Cook over the campfire when  you can.  Unless gourmet cooking is your idea of fun, stick to the basics.  Most of us eat to live, not live to eat!  A spontaneous pot luck dinner can be a lot of fun for group camps.

Plan for some indoor activities in case you encounter bad weather.   Board games, card games, video games, and movies are all popular options.  Or just take a nap.  Since naps aren't something most of us routinely get a chance to enjoy everyday, it can be a unique and pleasant way to spend a stormy afternoon.  I also find it a good time to inspect, clean, and organize my RV and motorcycle trailer or do some bike or gear repairs.

Sometimes a weekend away in your RV or tent is just what couples need to restore fun and intimacy to their relationship. You don't have to DO anything, just hang out together and enjoy one another's company.  Often the novelty of camping can help re-kindle personal relationships.  And, if you don't have stabilizing jacks on your RV, you might want to invest in one of the humorous signs that says "If this campers rocking, don't come knocking!", but such signs are either mostly ignored or serve as an invitation to interrupt your activities.

Now, get out there and HAVE FUN!

Setting Up Camp

How you go about setting up camp will depend on several factors, mostly what kind of RV you have, if any, and where and when you are camping. Other factors include weather, terrain, what kind of optional equipment you have and how many people you have to help you and to keep track of. It will make a difference whether you are group camping with other people or camping solo. Camping and RVing are great family activities. There will be many benefits to sharing responsibilities for setting up camp with other family members, including children. One major advantage is they will feel more a part of the excursion if they are involved. They will also have the opportunity to learn responsibility and gain valuable camping and survival skills. On top of that, setting up camp will be a lot easier and go a lot faster when tasks are divided among several campers instead of all falling on one person. Admittedly, teaching children will initially take more time than doing it yourself, but the investment will pay great dividends in their personal development and eventually will take some of the load off you.  Besides, it is fun to watch them!  While tent camping may mean a lot more setup, just positioning and leveling an RV and getting camp equipment unpacked and set up will take some time. The better and more practiced your routine, the faster it will go. Many campers, especially children, are super anxious to begin the planned recreational activities so it is easy to put off some aspects of setting up your camp. Try not to fall into the trap of rushing off to play without getting setup. You will almost always find your stay more enjoyable if you are organized to start with. Setting up camp can be a fun activity in itself.  Some of us are perfectionists and prefer to do things ourselves. We each like things done in a specific way and often have difficulty delegating tasks to others. True, the first time it may actually take more time to show them what to do than to do it ourselves, but with a little practice and patience, we can give others an opportunity to learn and share in essential tasks, taking off some of the load and getting everyone on to the other fun stuff faster.  Getting everything setup when you arrive leaves you free to enjoy the rest of your stay.  Putting it off until later often introduces extra work and takes extra time.  You might find  yourself trying to do a lot of things in the dark!  Better to be well organized to start with.  I even like to prepare my campfire so all I have to do is light it when I'm ready.

A primary consideration for both RV and tent campsites is finding a level spot to set up. In most established campgrounds this isn't a problem, but it can be a serious issue when boondocking. The closer the spot is to level, the better. RVs need to be level for comfort and so the refrigerator will work properly. Tent sites need to be level so you don't roll or slide down the hill while you're sleeping. If you MUST set up in a location that isn't level, try to orient your RV so the front wheels are down hill. That way it is easier to drive up on leveling blocks or, if you're lucky enough to have hydraulic levelers, they won't lift your back wheels off the ground. The back wheels are usually where your parking brakes are and lifting them off the ground lets the RV roll. If you can't level your RV, try to orient it so your feet will be downhill when you're sleeping. If you have to set up your tent on an sloping side, orient it so your feet will be downhill. If you lie across the hill you will roll. If your head is downhill, stomach bile will creep back up your throat during the night and that is definitely not a good way to get night's sleep.  Dinner doesn't taste so good that second or third time around!  Stomach acid creeping up in your throat will also give you a sore throat. 

Motorhomes are about the easiest to setup in camp. Often all you have to do is pull into your assigned space and, if you're in a campground with hookups, connect your water, power and sewer. You probably won't need to hook up the sewer hose until you are ready to dump you tanks.  Setting up right away leaves it out in the sun longer causing it to deteriorate faster and it may be a trip hazard or might be damaged if someone steps on it.  You won't need it until the black water tank is at least 1/2 to 2/3 full. If the space isn't level you may have to do some leveling and you will want to activate any stabilizing system you may be using. Automatic levelers make leveling and stabilizing really easy. Automatic levelers usually work in two stages. When you first activate them, the leveling jacks swing down. This allows you to place "jack boots" under the jacks to spread the load and keep them from sinking into softer surfaces. The second stage senses the position of the RV and lowers each jack as necessary until the RV is level. If you have a manual leveling system you will have to operate each jack as needed until the RV is level.

Trailers may need to be disconnected from the tow vehicle to be leveled and stabilized. Other than that, setting them up is very much like setting up a motorhome. Sometimes a space may be too short for your tow vehicle to remain connected to the trailer and you'll have to park beside the trailer or in another designated location. Even if there is enough room, you may need to disconnect in order to be able to adjust the height of the front of the trailer in order to level it.  You can usually achieve front to back leveling raising or lowering the tongue jack.. Side to side discrepancies will required the use of jacks or leveling blocks.

Once you have parked, leveled, and stabilized your motorhome or trailer, connect to park facilities (if available), extend your awning(s), and roll out and stake down your awning mat. If you plan to use your own picnic table or BBQ, get it out and set it up. You will probably want to close all the curtains, shades, or drapes both for privacy and temperature control. Closing window coverings keeps the interior cooler in summer and warmer in winter.  Start your water heater and make sure your refrigerator is working. If the weather is cool, start your furnace. If it is hot, start your generator and turn on your air conditioning. Unload fire wood and stack it somewhere convenient to your fire pit, but at a safe distance so it won't be ignited by sparks or blowing embers.  If you plan to watch over the air TV, raise the antenna and aim it in the direction of the station.  If you use a satellite system, align your dish.   If you weren't traveling with the water heater on, turn it on now.

Tent Camping. We'll start with the basics. Many aspects of tent camping will apply to camping in an RV as well. First, locate your camp site. If you're in a developed campground, your site will be assigned at check-in time. Sites are usually identified by numbered posts or signs where you park. Most sites in developed campgrounds will include a picnic table and fire pit. Park your vehicle, taking care to stay within the bounds of your assigned paved or graveled parking area. Do NOT drive over grass or landscaping unless instructed to do so by your camp host and NEVER allow your vehicle to intrude into another camp site or public area or hang over into the roadway or pathways. Inspect your site and decided where to put your tent. Ideally it should be upwind and uphill from the fire pit and from any nearby toilet facilities. An appropriate "pad" is usually provided in developed campgrounds -- a fairly level area cleared of major debris.  Usually it will be a nice grassy spot.  When in remote locations you'll have to identify and clear your own pad.  Unload your tent and other major components, such as ice chests and stoves. Survey your chosen or assigned site to determine how to make the best use of available features and improvements. Your options may be limited when you are in a developed campground but when camping in a primitive site you may be able to design your own camp layout. Find a safe place for your fire pit and try to place it downwind of your tent and your vehicles if possible. In a developed campground, set up your tent upwind from the permanent fire pit. I would set up my camp kitchen near the fire and close to any sources of water if I can. Choose a level spot within your designated site, clear of rocks, twigs, and other debris to set up your tent. Make sure you have enough overhead clearance if you choose a spot under trees. Lay out a ground cloth if you are going to use one beneath your tent. Ground cloths help protect tent floors from dirt, punctures and ground moisture. Tarps are usually sturdier than the thin fabric of tent floors. Just be careful that your ground cloth does not extend beyond the edges of your tent. If it does, it will collect and funnel any moisture (rain, dew, melted snow) under your tent! Personally, I like to use a ground cloth inside my tent too. That way I am sure my sleeping bags will be protected against ground moisture but it doesn't protect the tent floor from stuff on the ground the way one beneath the tent will. Using both gives maximum protection against unwanted moisture from the ground reaching your sleeping bag and spoiling your night's sleep as well as protecting the tent floor. Roll out the tent and stake down the corners. Then erect the poles according to the manufacturer's instructions. If you can set up the poles without staking down the corners, do so. Then crawl into your tent, roll out your sleeping bag, and make sure there aren't any sticks or stones beneath you. It is a lot easier to move the tent and clear the obstacles before you stake it down. Weather permitting, open windows and/or doors to allow the tent to air out. It will probably be a little musty from being in storage since your last trip. Set up your air mattresses or roll out your sleeping pads or install foam floor tiles if you're using them, then roll out your sleeping bags on top of them. Rolling out your sleeping bags in advance allows the compressed filling to expand and restore "loft" and insulation before you need it. If they have been rolled up for a long time, it might be a good idea to hang them outside where the breeze can help freshen and fluff them up. It may also help "air out" any musty odors that may have accumulated in storage. Hopefully you can leave room in your tent to store other items and for undressing and dressing. If you are using a small pup or pop-up tent, there may only be room for your sleeping bags and any other gear will have to be stored elsewhere. In good weather you may be able to leave it outside, but if the weather is bad or if you suspect your gear may be subject to theft or tampering, cover it with a tarp or put it back in your vehicle. I like to use a tent sized for one more person than will be occupying it so we have extra room for dressing and undressing and for gear.

Next, set up your camp kitchen. You want this to be safe, convenient, and easy to use. It should be downwind from your tent and your vehicles. You may want to use one end of the site picnic table (if available) as a convenient place to put your stove, ice chest, and water jugs. Lacking a table you might use the tailgate or trunk of your vehicle. You should keep your non-perishable foodstuffs in plastic tubs that can be easily stored back in your vehicle along with coolers for perishables when you're done with meals to prevent animals from getting into them. Even metal coolers aren't enough to stop bears from helping themselves to your goodies. Old-timers sometimes hang their provisions high in a tree to keep them safe, but putting them back in your vehicle is much easier, although bears have a been known to break into vehicles in search of food. There are portable camp kitchen support systems that can also be used if you have room to transport them. They usually fold up into a compact bundle and are made of aluminum so they are light weight and easy to transport and relieve your dependence on having a picnic table available when you arrive. These stands often include a place for your camp stove, racks for utensils and condiments, some (usually limited) counter space, sometimes a portable sink, and maybe even a spot for your ice chest. Set up and check your camp lanterns. If you have battery powered lanterns you need only verify battery and bulb condition. For gas-powered lanterns, you will need to check the fuel level and the condition of the mantles. Be careful fueling liquid gas lanterns. Use a funnel and stay far away from any open flames, including the pilot lights on your water heater and fridge! Mantles in gas lanterns, once installed, are made of ash and are very fragile and easily damaged in transport so bring plenty of spares. If the mantle is damaged, replace it before it gets dark. Also be sure to make sure you have a trash can or trash bag convenient to your cooking area. I sometimes bring along a portable sink when tent camping. It is made of plastic and has a built in reservoir and pump for the water. It isn't large enough for doing dishes, but it is great for personal hygiene, such as brushing your teeth, shaving, and washing your hands and face.

If you are tent camping in a primitive area without any restrooms you'll need to choose an area for a latrine. For a short stay you may just dig individual holes as needed but if you're going to be there for several days or have a bunch of people in your group, you might want to dig a trench latrine for added convenience. Make sure all latrines are downwind from your camp site and at least 200' away from any lake, stream, pond, spring, or well.

Set up your campfire. If it is cold, you may want to get the campfire going sooner rather than later so you have a place to warm up during other camp chores, but for ideal camping weather you probably won't need it until evening, long after everything else is ready to go. Even then, I like to set mine up when I set up camp so all  I have to do is light it when I'm ready to use it.  If you are in a developed or even a previously used primitive campground, there will probably be an existing fire pit. If you are in a remote area, you may have to build your own fire ring or use a portable fire pit. In any case, you'll want to get your fire set up and ready to light before it gets dark so it will be ready to just light when you need it most. Unload your firewood and stack it neatly where it will be convenient to use by safe from sparks.   Clean out and repair rock fire rings, then set up your fire for later lighting.  See my previous post on Campfire Safety for additional tips on campfires.

Set up optional camp equipment. You may have camp chairs, a dining fly to shade your picnic table and protect it from rain and bird droppings, and games or recreational equipment to be unpacked and set up.  If your activities include OHVs or other motorized toys you will want to get them unloaded and prepared for use.   If there is a likelihood of bad weather, cover outside equipment with tarps and secure them so they won't blow away.   If the weather is TOO bad, consider postponing getting things out until it clears up a bit.   If you're using a Sun Shower, fill the bag and hang it or lay it out in the sun to heat. If you have an awning mat, roll it out and stake it down so it doesn't blow away if the wind kicks up.

If you are RV camping in a remote or primitive area, try to use a previously used camp site. This will avoid unnecessary environmental damage and will make setting up your camp easier for you, especially if there is an existing fire pit. Sometimes you can see where other RVs have been parked and this may save you time and effort locating an appropriately level spot.  Most group camps are set up around a central fire pit, so locating the fire pit may help you identify potential camp sites.  Then follow the same procedures as you would in a developed campground (except you won't have any hookups), once again taking care not to encroach on any neighboring campers. If you must set up in a pristine area, do your best to minimize the footprint you leave and take advantage of level areas and any natural features that may provide protection from wind or rain. Avoid camping in depressions or dry washes, especially if there is any chance of rain. Even if the rain is many miles away, flash floods can arrive with surprising speed and force in a previously dry creek bed or wash and quickly inundate low lying areas.

RV Camping with hookups. Setting up camp with your RV is a mostly matter of locating your assigned space, properly parking and leveling your vehicle, and connecting to the camp ground hook ups. Some campgrounds don't offer full hookups so you will have to adapt to what is available and hook up what you can. Always keep all of your vehicles on the paved or graveled parking areas unless otherwise instructed by the campground host. Once you have parked your vehicle, proceed to block it securely and stabilize or level it. Then connect shore power, water lines, and sewer hoses. It is a good idea to carry a volt-meter with you to check voltage at camp sites. Low or high voltage can damage your converter and any electronic equipment you may have on board. It is also surprising how often you may find sites that are mis-wired.  Sometimes extension cords are mis-wired also.  I once had a brand new heavy duty extension cord that was cross wired, so be sure to test your cords as well as the receptacles.  There is a simple, inexpensive device you can plug into any standard 15 or 20 amp 120 volt outlet to confirm the wiring is correct. They are available at some RV stores and in hardware stores and home centers. A combination of lights indicate the status of the outlet and can warn you of wiring errors before they can damage your RV's electrical system or equipment. If the voltage is low or high (below 110 volts or over 130 volts)or the receptacle is mis-wired, DO NOT plug your RV into the camp receptacles. Report the problem to the campground manager. Connect your fresh water hose (use only a white, potable water hose -- ordinary garden hoses will give your water a plastic taste) to the faucet at your campsite. Make sure you are using YOUR faucet, and not one intended for a neighboring site. Sometimes hydrants are placed between sites and shared by more than one site. Use an inline pressure regulator to protect your RV plumbing from excessive city water pressure. Water pressure can vary significantly from place to place and even from time to time during the day and you want to be sure you are protected from unexpected surges that might rupture lines or damage faucet seals inside your RV. I like to put mine between the faucet and the hose so it protects the hose as well as the RV plumbing. Connect your sewer line. If your RV has separate dump valves for the gray water and black water tanks, connect the sewer line to the gray water tank and to the dump pipe and then open the gray water valve completely. If you have a single dump port, connect the hose from that dump port to the dump pipe and then open ONLY your gray water dump valve. You need to leave the black water valve closed to let the black water tank fill at least half full before dumping it to prevent the accumulation of solid wastes that are left behind when liquids quickly drain off if the valve is left open. Some people recommend letting the gray water tank also fill before dumping it, but that usually isn't necessary. Some commercial campgrounds offer extra-cost cable TV and telephone hook ups. If your RV is so-equipped and the campground offers these service, connect the cable TV and Phone lines. Make sure all your electrical lines and hoses are flat on the ground or mark them with bright ribbons so passersby won't trip over them, which could disconnect them or cause someone to be injured. Many campgrounds these days offer wifi Internet service. You won't need a physical connection, but you will need to get the login information from the campground host to be able to use your laptop in your RV. You should try out your Internet connection so you can seek assistance from the host before you really need access if you have any problems. Now turn on the faucet and verify that you have water at all fixtures inside your RV. Make sure your main propane valve is opened. Start your water heater. Most modern heaters have an electronic ignition that only requires you to turn on the switch at the control panel. Older units may require you to light the pilot light. Be sure to carefully follow the lighting instructions on the water heater to avoid injury to you or damage to the water heater. If the weather is cool, start your furnace. Like water heaters, most only require you to turn on a switch and set the thermostat. Some use the thermostat alone, in which case just setting the desired temperature is all that is desired. In hot weather, turn on the roof A/C. If the inside of your RV is warmer than it is outside, air it out before turning on the A/C. Open a few windows to allow cross-ventilation and/or turn on any powered roof vents to evacuate hot air. Remember that hot air rises, so powered or even unpowered roof vents will let the hottest air out the fastest. Check the status of your refrigerator to make sure it is functioning. Light the stove briefly to ensure it is operating correctly. This gives you a chance to diagnose and correct any problems prior to dinner time! It also clears air from the propane lines. If you weren't running the refrigerator in transit (which I normally do), turn on the fridge. If you have a problem with any appliance and do not have the knowledge, skills, or tools to diagnose and correct it, check with the campground manager. Often these folks are able to help you resolve problems themselves or can put you in contact with local mobile RV technicians who can come right to your RV to fix things for you on the spot. If your RV doesn't have a permanent bed, unpack your bedding so it can air out and restore loft to sleeping bags so they'll be ready to crawl into when bedtime rolls around. If the campground offers Internet service either connect a cable to the port on the pedestal or obtain the wifi password from the office.  Wifi is more common than hardwired Internet in campgrounds.

You may now want to roll out your awning mat and open your awning. Awning mats help catch dirt, mud, sand and debris before it gets tracked into you RV and helps define a pleasant patio sitting area. Even if you don't have a full size patio mat, even a small welcome mat outside your rig will help keep dirt outside. If the mat is on gravel or grass you can stake it down with spike-type tent stakes to keep breezes from attempting to relocate it. When camping on asphalt, I use a Hilti style rim-fire nail gun to literally nail the mat down. In either case, you will want to have prepared your mat by installing grommets at appropriate locations (all 4 corners, appropriate spacing along long sides, and on either side of where your RV steps hang out over the mat). In a pinch you can drive stakes or nails directly through the mat, but the grommets will protect the mat from tearing. I usually use large washers on the stakes or nails to secure the grommets and reduce the potential for tearing the mat if the wind kicks up. It also gives you a better way to remove them later when the time comes to go home.  Weather permitting, you may want to extend your patio awning and window awnings if you have them. The awnings will help keep your RV cooler and the patio awning will provide shelter from sun and light rain and further define a pleasant outdoor living area.  Never open your awnings when there are high winds and avoid using them during heavy precipitation.  If it starts to rain after you've set up, lower one corner of the awning to encourage run-off and avoid puddling.

Welcome mats are useful for both tent and RV camping.  Having a place to wipe your feet before entering your abode will reduce tracking dirt inside.  An old burlap bag makes an excellent door mat.  The rough texture is good at scraping sand, dirt, snow, and mud off your shoes.  It folds up small so it takes up little room in transit and you can easily wash it out when it gets dirty.  Usually all you have to do his hose it off and hang it up to dry.

You may then want to proceed with preparing your campfire and any optional camping equipment you have brought along as describe above for tent camping.

RV Camping "off-grid". Camping without hookups, also known as boondocking, dry camping, or being off-grid differs from camping with hookups in that you have to rely on the self-contained features of your RV and you probably won't have a graded parking area. The initial steps are basically the same as for camping with hookups. That is, locate your site and park, level, and stabilize your unit. If you are truly boondocking in a remote area, there will not be designated camp sites and you will have to select an appropriate place to camp. I recommend searching first for areas that have been previously used. That way you avoid unnecessary damage to the environment and save yourself some work setting up your camp. You may also take advantage of the effort someone else has already gone to to find the most level place to park and will probably have already discovered any unseen obstacles and found a way around them. Parking under trees is appealing, especially in warm weather, but if it is now or gets windy, broken and falling branches may seriously damaged the roof of your RV and birds may roost above your unit and make unpleasant deposits on it and you! Since you have no water, electric, or sewer hookups, at this point you need only turn on your water pump and verify you have water at your fixtures and start your water heater. Then check the fridge, stove, and furnace or A/C. To run the A/C you will need to start the generator. Let it warm up for 5 minutes or so before starting the A/C. If the generator shuts off or gets shut off while the A/C is running, wait at least 5 minutes for the "head pressure" in the compressor to bleed off before restarting the A/C to avoid damage to the A/C and reduce stress on the genset. Now proceed to set up the rest of your camp as described above for tent camping. I have seen some campers in remote locations connect a garden hose to special cap on their gray water tanks to allow gray water to be drained some distance away from their vehicles. In most places this practice is forbidden or even illegal and should be avoided. It might be permitted in some very dry desert situations. Care must always be taken to route the hose far away from ANY vehicle or equipment and where the water won't run back into any area where there is a vehicle, people, or equipment. I have seen people stick the end of the hose into a hole in the ground, but remember, something had to make the hole and is probably still living down there! Stuffing a hose into it might stir up a rattlesnake and that could spoil your whole day! At the least you will be creating an unpleasant hazard for the occupants and may even drown them! Your holding tanks are designed and intended for holding waste water. Except in very unusual circumstances you should use them. NEVER, EVER drain black water onto or into the ground. It MUST properly disposed of in an appropriate dump station.

OHV Considerations. If you are on an OHV outing, you will want to unload your OHVs and prepare them for use. Top off fuel tanks, lubricate cables and drive chains, check all lights, check tire pressure. Do a quick check for any loose fasteners. Better to spend a few minutes tightening screws now than losing parts on the trail! You may find it helpful to rope off or mark off a parking area for your OHVs near your RV or trailer so you'll have a convenient place to put them to park and service them again when you return from your ride. I have an awning on my enclosed motorcycle trailer I like to park my bikes under. It defines my parking space and helps protect the seats and plastic components from the sun and will keep off any unwanted moisture, like rain, snow, or dew. Most OHV seats are a dark color and can get very hot if left in the sun. If you can't park in the shade, you may want to throw a tarp or at least a towel over the seat.  If its breezy out you may need to tie it down to keep it from blowing off.  Unpack your riding gear and inspect and organize it so it is easy to put on when you're ready to ride. Fill your canteens or hydration packs. Be considerate of fellow campers. Push your OHVs some distance away from other campers before starting them early in the morning and never "hot dog" or show off in or near camp. Ride slowly in and out of camp to prevent stirring up dust that will annoy other campers and foul your own outdoor gear and equipment. Dust seldom enhances the view and is not a very desirable condiment for hamburgers, steaks, or any meal and never enhances breathing! When leaving your OHVs outside overnight, be sure to secure them with chains or cables and locks. Personally I have never had any problems or seen any among my fellow riders, but we all pretty much lock up our rides at night and it is always better to be safe than sorry. There was one time when anti-OHV folks sabotaged some of our bikes while we were performing volunteer trail maintenance with the U.S. Forest Service, so it is always a good idea to secure them where someone can keep an eye on them.

Winter Camping. Setting up a winter camp requires some special consideration. You may find it helpful to shovel the snow off your site and from around your picnic area before parking. Even finding the proper parking area in a developed campground or locating a safe parking place while boondocking can be made more difficult when the ground is covered with snow. If you are using hookups, you will need to bring heat tape to prevent your hose and the campground faucet from freezing. It is a good idea to get out and walk the space and look for obstacles or holes that may be hidden in the snow and could cause damage to your vehicle or cause you to get stuck before you enter the site. If you are tent camping in the winter you may need to clear away the snow to create a smooth and solid place to set up your tent. Tent pegs may not hold well in snow so you'll need to be able drive them into the ground (which may be frozen!) or devise an alternate form of anchor you can bury in the snow. I carry some large nails (about 10"-12" long) to use in hard or frozen ground. They are sturdier and easier to drive than regular tent pegs. You may also face dangers from accumulated snow falling from overhead branches so it is not a good idea to set up your tent under branches where snow could accumulate. Heat rising from campfires, camp stoves, and even your tent or RV or any little breeze that happens to come along can also cause overhead snow to melt and fall into the fire or stove, so seek an open spot for your campfire or using your stove.

Now, have fun!