Camping in Thunder Storms!

Most of us wouldn't deliberately go camping in bad weather but thunderstorms can strike anywhere, just about anytime. While they are most apt to occur in the summer or fall, I've even seen lighting and thunder during a snow storm (Thundersnow) on Christmas day in Utah! Thunderstorms are quite common in the mountainous areas favored by campers.  Mountains often create their own weather and local activity won't always show up on regional forecasts.   I've seen summer thunderstorms in mountainous areas that were so regular you could almost set  your clock by them.  Thunderstorms can be beautiful to watch and kind of fun -- if you are someplace safe -- or deadly if you are caught out in the open or near objects that may attract lightning. In any case, they are a superb demonstration of the power of Nature and demand respect. If you can hear thunder, you are close enough to the storm to be possibly struck by lightning, so take precautions right away!

Thunder is the sound of lightning.  Lightning takes place because there is a build up of a differential in electrical charge between the earth and the clouds moving overhead or between clouds. When the difference gets large enough, electricity arcs between clouds or from the clouds to the ground to equalize the charge and lightning is born. A lightning bolt can instantly heat its channel through the air to as much as 54,000°F. That's something like 255 times as hot as it takes to boil water!  Cloud-to-cloud lightning is spectacular to watch and poses little threat to people on the ground. Cloud-to-ground lightning, on the other hand, creates a huge threat to people and objects on the ground. Lightning strikes with tremendous force, enough to split and destroy mature trees in a single strike. It can also cause fires where there is sufficient fuel, like in forests, brush, and grasslands. Fires don't usually spread rapidly in desert areas where the foliage is sparse. Lightning will seek the path of least resistance, usually arcing from the highest point on the ground, so you want to make sure YOU are not the highest point or are not near the highest point.  Not all the lightning you see is cloud-to-ground.  There are a number of different kinds of cloud-to-cloud lightning that will illuminate the sky but won't necessarily have the distinctive streaks we normally associate with lightning.  Typically there are 5-10 times as many intra-cloud flashes as cloud-to-ground flashes.  You may see spider lightning that usually shows up as long, horizontal flashes on the underside of clouds.  For more on fascinating lightning types, check out red sprites, blue jets, and elves on Lighting Types.  Since these are transient, high altitude phenomena, you probably won't observe them unless you are flying over a thunder storm or way higher up on a mountain than I'd ever want to be in a thunderstorm.

Lightning can strike distant power lines and send a dangerous surge through electric and phone lines.  If you usually camp with electric hookups it is a good idea to equip your RV with a good surge protector to prevent damage from power surges.  They aren't cheap, but they're a lot cheaper than replacing all the damaged wiring and electrical and electronic equipment that will be ruined without them. If you don't have a surge protector, you might want to consider disconnecting all wiring from the campground until the storm passes.  Even phone, TV cable, or wired Internet

Thunder is caused by a sonic shock wave generated as the super-heated air expands (remember that 54,000 °F) and strikes cooler air surrounding it. Thunder is the sound of lightning. Remember, if you hear thunder, you are close enough to the storm that you could be struck by lightning. Thunder can typically be heard up to 25 miles.  At that distance it will mostly be a low rumble as high frequency sound is absorbed by the environment.  When lightning strikes closer than that the thunder will be louder, sharper, and more intense.  The time between seeing the lightning flash and hearing the thunder can give you an approximation of how far away the lightning was. Measure the seconds or count "one-one thousand, two-one-thousand" etc. Divide by 3 to get the approximate distance in kilometers or by 5 go get the approximate distance in miles. Anything within a mile or two represents significant danger. I have worked on outdoor construction projects that were shut down whenever lighting was within 2 miles.   That's a count of about 10 seconds.  You might use that as a guide for curtailing outdoor activities when there is thunder and lightning in the area and make sure YOU aren't the highest point around!

Heat lightning is a term applied to lightning or lightning induced illumination that is too far away for thunder to be heard.  You may see clouds light up in a distant storm before it gets close enough for the sound of thunder to reach you.  You probably don't need to worry right away unless the storm is obviously headed your way but you'll want to keep an eye on it and keep your ears open for thunder.  You may also see clouds light up from cloud to cloud lightning.  When it is present there is also a pretty good chance of cloud to ground lightning, so take precautions when you hear the thunder, even it is from cloud to cloud activity at the time.

Hail is another hazard of thunderstorms. High winds within the thunderclouds whip particles up and down through various temperatures. At low levels, they pick up moisture. At high elevations, the moisture that has accumulated on particles freezes.  The cycle repeats, building up layer after layer of ice to form hailstones.  As they grow heavy enough, they fall into warmer, moist air and pick up more moisture. If the winds are strong enough, they are whipped back up and the new layer of moisture freezes. The stronger the winds within the cloud, the larger and heavier the hailstones grow. Small hail is mostly a nuisance and may cause some stinging pain if you are caught out in it. You can usually get pretty good protection from small hail under small trees and bushes or even a tent or awning. As the hail gets larger, the hazard increases. Dime size hail will hurt like heck and can dimple RV and vehicle roofs.  Golf-ball sized hail will dent vehicles, damage roofs, and break windows and windshields. Tents and fabric awnings are little protection and will be severely damaged by hail of this size. Even larger hailstones have been recorded, some bigger than a baseball. Imagine having one of those land on your head! It would be worse than getting hit with a major-league fastball! If you encounter a hailstorm, seek shelter immediately. If you are on the road and the hail gets bigger than a dime, try to pull over under a freeway bridge before it breaks your windshield or damages your vehicle. If you are in camp about all you can do is get yourself and any equipment that is likely to be damaged inside and wait it out. The roof of your RV or other vehicle may be dented by large hailstones but at least it will keep it off your head. Tents will provide protection against small hail, but if it heads toward golf ball size, you might want to get in or crawl under your vehicle or other sturdy protection until it stops if you don't have any other safe place. If your are out on the trails on your OHV, horse, or on foot, seek any shelter you can find. A cave or a rock overhang would provide the best protection but you may have to settle for huddling under a large tree. Just make sure it isn't a lone tree or the tallest one around. You don't want to try to hide from a thunderstorm next to a lightning rod! Try to move your ride (mechanical or furry) to a safe place also. You don't want your body or anything that is important to you to become the highest point around. Even fairly small hailstones can dent vehicles and break windows. I noticed a new, golf-ball texture on the roof of my motorhome following a thunderstorm last summer with dime sized hail. Unfortunately, there isn't much you can do if you're caught out in a hailstorm. Get your vehicle under some kind of protection if you can. A bridge or an overpass or the canopy at a gas station provides the most protection, but trees can slow or divert at least some of the hailstones although being under trees may subject you to falling branches from high winds that often accompany thunder storms so pick your spot carefully.

Cold rain that often accompanies thunderstorms can quickly chill your body to the point of dangerous hypothermia. The first few drops on a hot day will be refreshing, but getting soaked will be uncomfortable and even dangerous before long.  Hypothermia occurs when the body's core temperature falls to about 95°.  That's only a few degrees below the normal temperature of 98.6°.  Standing around in wet clothes, especially if there is a breeze, can quickly put a person into hypothermia.  If you can't get in out of the rain before getting soaked, try to change into dry clothing and get warm as soon as possible. Lacking any dry clothes in camp, get out of the wet ones and wrap up in a blanket or sleeping bag until your clothes dry.  In wet clothes you can get dangerously hypothermic even in fairly comfortable air temperatures.

I have personally been close enough to a lightning strike that the "thunder" was perceived as a violent explosion simultaneous with the flash. Believe me, that is scary, even though we were maybe a hundred yards away across a parking lot! It was like a bomb or dynamite going off! To estimate how close lightning is to you, watch for the lightning flash, then measure the seconds until you hear the thunder. If you don't have a watch count "one thousand one, two one thousand, etc". Divide the count by 5 to estimate how many miles to the lightning or divide by 3 for kilometers. If lightning is striking within  2 miles of your location (about 10 seconds after the lightning flash), seek immediate shelter. And remember that if you can hear the thunder, regardless of how long it was from the lightning flash, you are probably within striking distance of the lightning sometime soon and should begin looking for shelter or start heading back to camp.

Being inside an RV, like being inside of just about any enclosed vehicle or building, gives you some personal protection from lightning. A popular mis-belief is that the rubber tires on a vehicle insulate you from the ground. That simply isn't true. Lightning strikes are powerful enough to easily jump the gap from the metal wheels to the ground and the rain that usually accompanies thunder storms creates an effective conductor over the rubber tires anyway. After all, lightning bolts are already arcing thousands of feet through the air from clouds to the ground, so whats a few inches from metal wheel to ground. What really protects you is the metal framework surrounding you that conducts the strike safely past you to the ground through the body of your vehicle instead of through your body. Thus, sitting on your rubber-tired OHV does not protect you from being struck by lightning, especially if you are the tallest point around.

A popular saying is that "lightning never strikes twice in the same place". That may have some foundation in the expectation that once lightning has struck a place, it no longer exists as the highest point to be struck a second time.  That is probably true of tall trees.  However, lightning does strike some places repeatedly. For instance, the Empire State Building in New York City is struck by lightning about 100 times every year. So why isn't it damaged or the occupants injured? Because it is grounded so the lightning passes through special circuits in the building into the ground without harming the contents or the occupants. The lightning rod on top is connected to a special metal framework that safely conducts the electricity into the ground beneath the building and away from occupants. Even people have been struck more than once by lightning and survived.  I suspect it may not have been direct strikes either time.

Some one struck by lightning does NOT become "charged".   You will not be shocked it you come in contact with them after they have been struck, only if you are touching them when they are struck.  Some electrocuted by a fallen power line, on the other hand, could very well be a danger if they are still in contact with the line.  If you go to assist someone in that situation, make sure any fallen lines are moved off of them before you touch them.  Use a stick or wooden pole to move the wires so you don't get shocked.

If you find yourself in a lightning storm in your RV, try to find a low-lying area away from tall trees or light poles to park. You don't want to be or be near the highest point. Stay away from tall trees and light poles in camp grounds, parking lots or rest areas. However, take care in choosing a low-lying area. Many may be subject to flash floods. Your best bet is on a small rise that keeps you lower than surrounding lightning targets, but up out of the danger of flooding. But even then, be cautious and observant.  You don't want to find yourself marooned on an island if a flash flood inundates the low lying area around you.  Flash floods can happen from rain many miles away, often surprising those in its path.

While you may be relatively safe from direct injury from lightning striking your RV when you are in it, your RV certainly isn't. Furthermore, if you are in contact with any part of the metal frame of the RV when lightning strikes, all bets are off and you'll probably be seriously injured. Don't lean up against window or door frames. Avoid touching plumbing fixtures. Lightning striking your RV or even near it is likely to damage appliances and electronic equipment and perhaps the ignition systems on motorhomes and tow vehicles. It can also cause fires and even explosions. Keep in mind your RV is carrying a significant amount of volatile fuels (propane and, in the case of motorhomes and toyhaulers, gasoline or diesel). If your RV catches fire, GET OUT and far away from the vehicle as soon as possible. Those little spray-can sized fire extinguishers required by law are good for small cooking fires, but they will be useless if your whole vehicle is on fire. Better to just let it burn and get you and your loved ones to safety than die in a futile attempt to save a vehicle that can be replaced.  A fire fighter rule of thumb is if the fire is bigger than a wastebasket, get help!

If you're caught in an electrical storm while out hiking or riding your horse or OHV, seek shelter in a low-lying area as soon as possible -- but avoid places that might be subject to flooding. If you're in a flat area or on a hill top, you might well be the highest point around and the path of least resistance for lightning! As mentioned above, rubber tires to not insulate you from the ground enough to prevent being struck by lightning. Do not seek shelter under tall trees or even single trees in an open area, regardless of how tall they are. You are somewhat safer in a thick grove of trees nearly all the same height than you are out in the open but the best course of action is to get low -- under a bridge or in a culvert will provide protection from lightning but that carries its own dangers: flash floods. Even if it isn't raining where you are yet, the sudden downpour often associated with thunderstorms can create flash floods that sweep down streams and formerly dry gullies with amazing speed and deadly force from many miles away. If you do seek shelter under a bridge or culvert, make sure you can see far enough upstream to get the heck out of the way if there is a flash flood! If there is no place to go, consider getting off your ride and squatting down some distance away from it so that IT is the highest point around, and not your head or your backside! Better it gets struck than you! The safest recommended position is to squat down with your hands on your knees and put your head between your knees. Lying flat is said to actually make you a larger target and more likely to be hit. Even when lying flat your backside may be the highest point around and most vulnerable to being struck by lightening.  Replacing your fried OHV or poor horse may be expensive, but replacing your fried brain or electrocuted heart is impossible.

If you are hiking in the open you may be the tallest object around, so seek shelter in a low-lying area. If there is no place to go, squat down on the ground as described above and wait for the storm to pass. Better to be wet and muddy than electrocuted, incinerated, or vaporized!

You don't have to actually be struck directly by lightning to be injured by a strike. A near miss can send shrapnel flying with deadly velocity in all directions. You may also be stunned by the concussion of the strike, blinded by the flash, your hearing damaged by the thunder or shock wave, or the object hit may fall in your direction. So stay a safe distance away from objects such as tall trees, power poles, and radio towers that might attract lightning.

Kids and thunderstorms. If you're camping with kids you may have extra concerns during thunderstorms. Kids reactions run the gambit, from wanting to go out and play in the rain to being scared to death! Both extremes create problems for Mom and Dad (or Grandma and Grandpa or other guardians). You will want to teach your kids respect for the awesome power of thunderstorms and show them how to protect themselves. Take care not to frighten them unnecessarily. If they are already frightened by thunder and lightning, calmly explain the basics to them and let them know how they can stay safe. Let them know that it is pretty rare for people to be struck by lightning -- as low as 1 in 8,987,657 (you could tell them chances are almost 10 million to 1 against them being struck by lighting).  Have alternate indoor activities planned that will take their minds off the storm while keeping them safe and warm. Board games, card games, computer games, movies, and books are all good possibilities. So are baking cookies or making and eating popcorn. Some fresh baked cookies and cup of hot cocoa is a very comforting distraction from storms. Hugs are good too, if your family is physical.  Make fun of the storm. My grandpa used to say the thunder was a potato wagon tipping over, which seemed especially relevant since we lived in Idaho and he grew potatoes and would know what one sounds like. Equate lightning to a fireworks display and encourage kids to spot the best streaks or things like brightest flash, loudest thunder, closest, furthest away, closest together, the one with the most branches, or just count the flashes.

Kids aren't the only ones who need something to do during thunderstorms.   While most adults won't be as frightened by storms as children are, being cooped up in a tent or RV to wait out an extended storm is likely to take its toll.  Personally, I enjoy a good thunderstorm, as long as the lightning doesn't get TOO close!  Not everyone shares my  enthusiasm though.  While few adults are seriously frightened by thunder storms, many do find them inconvenient or annoying.  You may find yourself suffering from symptoms of "cabin fever".  It is a good idea to have some indoor activities planned to use if you find yourself in that situation.  Board games and card games can be played anywhere.  Books and magazines can provide welcome diversions.  If you have shore power, an on board generator, or an inverter with adequate battery banks, you can watch videos.  Some of the suggestions for kids, like baking cookies or making popcorn, are fun and practical things for even more "mature" kids.  I also like to take advantage of times I'm cooped up inside to perform routine inspections and maintenance within my RV or enclosed motorcycle trailer.  Inventorying, cleaning, and reorganizing cabinets and drawers is a very productive and satisfying way to use "down" time.  Since I have an enclosed motorcycle trailer for our dirt bikes I can even do some maintenance on the bikes when the weather is bad.  Even some adults may suffer from some kind of phobia about lightning and thunder and may benefit from some extra comforting.  Don't put them down or try to minimize their fears.  Just accept them, like you would in a child, and try to reassure and comfort them, perhaps distract them with some fun and interesting activities.

May the only charge you get be enjoying RVing, OHVing, and camping!

RVs and Fuel Economy

 Mentioning RVs and Fuel Economy in the same sentence is kind of an oxymoron, don't you think?  After all, RVs are not exactly known for their great gas mileage.

There is a trend in the RV industry today they're calling "right sizing". What it amounts to is an attempt to balance fuel economy with living space and creature comforts for the best value. Some of the new diesel motorhomes and diesel powered tow vehicles claim to get around 18 mpg, a great improvement over the "old days" where similar sized gasoline powered vehicles averaged around 6 mpg -- or less! Of course we pay a huge extra price to buy these new vehicles so payback may take several years, especially with diesel fuel prices climbing.

I mentioned in a previous post the idea of "passenger miles per gallon". This concept is sometimes used to measure efficiency of public transportation like airplanes, trains, and buses. I find it useful to apply it to motorhome or RV travel. My old gasoline powered Class A motorhome got at pretty steady 6 mpg. Seemed like it didn't matter whether I was towing a trailer or not towing a trailer, climbing or descending hills, or sitting the parking lot! But with my wife and six kids on board with me, that yields 48 passenger miles per gallon. Hey, only smaller and highly efficient motorcycles or extraordinary compact hybrid cars can even hope to match that for a single occupant.

Some newer motorhomes and tow vehicles are more fuel efficient than their predecessors.   Smaller diesel powered Class A's are claiming performance up to 18 mpg.  However, I've seen sales literature on 27' diesel powered Class A's from the 1980's claiming up to 14.8 mpg.  Gasoline versions of the same coach got around 6-7 mpg.  Newer computerized, fuel injected motorhomes and tow vehicles give better performance than the old gas hogs I grew up with.  The 1960's were famous for the big, gas guzzling muscle cars, but, ironically, they also produced one of the most fuel efficient motorhomes of all time:  the Corvair powered UltraVan.  It delivered around 15 mpg in a well equipped 25' class A motorhome weighing around 3000 lbs and powered by an unmodified Corvair 6 cylinder gas engine.  It wasn't fast off the line, but owners of surviving "Ultravans" still find the performance acceptable and their aircraft style aluminum construction made them extremely durable and the design was way ahead of its time so it still looks modern.

Fantastic fuel gadgets are pretty much fantasy. You'll see claims for all kinds of devices to improve fuel economy, but most are just scams. There are systems that claim to separate water into oxygen and hydrogen and add the gases into the air mixture. Physics says this will NOT improve fuel economy since it takes a LOT of energy to separate water molecules and internal combustion engines are only about 30% efficient even using the fuels they were designed for, let alone pure hydrogen, which has less energy per unit volume than gasoline. Some other gadgets include magnets that are installed along fuel lines and claim to "polarize" the fuel. There are always tales of super carburetors that deliver up to 200 mpg, but no one has ever actually seen one and fuel chemistry pretty much proves this is totally impossible, regardless of the efficiency of the carburetor. There simply isn't enough energy in one gallon of gasoline to move a vehicle of any size that far.  One device that appears to have some merit is water injection. This simply injects a mist into the air intake. The device was originally intended to clean combustion chambers, but some users found it to improve fuel economy and reduce engine temperatures.  It also reduces pre-ignition, allowing you to run cheaper fuel.  The bottom line: you'll probably save more by not buying these gadgets than you'll ever save in fuel by using them.

There are some things owners can do to improve mileage and performance. First and foremost, is keeping your vehicle in good repair and properly tuned and the tires properly inflated. Exercising cautious driving skills will also help. Avoid "jack rabbit" starts and try to maintain a constant speed.  Use your cruise control (if you have it) when you can.  Improving exhaust and air intake efficiency are among the most popular and productive engine modifications. Banks Engineering provides kits for many applications that significantly improve both performance and mileage. Usually improving one means a decrease in the other, but by increasing the efficiency of both intake and exhaust, remarkably Banks systems usually improve both. These systems are fairly expensive so it may take a while to recoup your investment.  Some modern computer controlled engines can be "super tuned" using modified computer chips, but here again, tuning for power and tuning for fuel economy are usually mutually exclusive.

Keeping your engine well maintained is one of the best ways to coax maximum performance and mileage from you vehicle. Dirty air filters can significantly reduce both mileage and performance. After all, your engine has to breathe, just like you do! To get some idea of the affect a dirty air filter has on on engine, try breathing through a dirty sock. You engine may not care how bad the air smells, but it will care how hard it is to draw it in.  Proper lubrication is critical to prevent wear and reduce internal friction, so religiously follow manufacturer's recommended oil and lube schedules.  Motor oil contains additives to improve performance and these additives break done over time.

Motor oil additives are another way of reducing friction in your engine.  STP is one of the best  know products.  Interesting enough, it is said it was discovered accidentally when folks testing racing engines were looking for a way to accelerate wear,  They tried adding tiny glass beads to the oil to act as an abrasive and it turned out they behaved more like ball bearings to reduce friction.  By the way "STP" stands for "Scientifically Treated Petroleum".  Another popular product I've had personally experience with are the Lucas oil treatments for engines and transmissions.  I once had the air-over-electric shifter on my diesel pusher motorhome professionally rebuilt when it started sticking.  It worked pretty good but began sticking again in less than 3 months.  In desperation I pulled it out and cleaned it myself.  I gave a good dose of Lucas oil before reassembling it and it worked well for more than a year before needed another good cleaning.  The darn thing was nearly 30  years old and had seen over 100,00 miles and probably should have been replaced.  But it would have cost about $2000, IF I could even find one!

Perhaps the next biggest factor affecting RV fuel economy is weight.   As human beings we tend to love our luxuries and comfort and the larger our mobile cottages are, the heavier they are and the more fuel it takes to drag them around.  Minimizing weight by getting rid of unnecessary stuff we accumulate will help keep fuel usage as low as possible.

Keep your tires properly inflated.  Here is something that is really easy to do and can make a big difference in handling and fuel economy.  Over inflated tires can make  rig feel skittish and give it  harsh ride; under inflated tires will make it sluggish, will burn more fuel, and can over heat the tires and cause them to wear and blow out.  Remember the old 55 MPH national speed limit?  It was supposedly designed to save gasoline but reports I've read that even more fuel would have been saved by ensuring proper tire inflation.  Over inflation will cause tires to wear in the middle and reduce traction, making the vehicle feel squirrely .  The ride might be a little softer with lower inflation, but you will pay for it in fuel and risk tire damage if they are too under inflated.  Under inflated tires will wear faster on the outside tread rows and can also have a negative affect on handling.

That being said, driving slower is another way to save fuel.  Transmission problems once forced us to drive our mid-sized SUV at 55 mph instead of 70 mph on a long, interstate trip and our mileage jumped from about 22 mpg to nearly 30 mpg! So, maybe the 55mph speed limit wasn't as dumb as I thought, except for interstate trucks that are designed to operate efficiently at freeway speeds.

Wind resistance can also effect mileage, so minimizing it can help mileage. The boxy shape of most motorhomes give them the aerodynamics of a barn door. Yet you'd be surprised what some of the actually ratings are. I had a big boxy Class A Suncrest with a slightly pointed fiberglass front cap that had about the same co-efficient of friction as a Jaguar XKE! Of course the huge frontal area of the boxy Suncrest compared to the sleek XKE meant the motorhome had a total wind resistance that was still immense when the factor was applied to the total frontal area. I like to give my vehicles the best chance of performing well so I try to keep them clean and well-waxed. It may not seem like a big deal, but given the huge surface area, even a small reduction in surface friction can have a cumulative affect on reducing wind resistance. Ever notice that private planes are always clean and shiny?   One reason is to reduce wind drag.  Keeping your vehicle clean avoids surface grime from turning into micro-sanders at highway speeds and prevents premature paint damage. Besides that, you'll feel better driving a clean vehicle and one day, when it comes time to sell or upgrade, having maintained the exterior will pay back dividends in increased re-sale or trade-in value. Protectall was developed by an airplane owner with a chemical engineering background to keep the surface of his privatge plane in good condition and reduce wind drag. It is popular with RVers too, not very expensive, and fairly easy to apply.

Air tabs.  There is a product designed primarily for OTR trucks to minimize air drag that can be adapted to RVs.  They aren't cheap (around  $2.75 each and you typically need about 72 per RV so figure about $250).  They are kind of triangular plastic devices that are attached to the rear of your RV to manage the air flow behind it or to the cab of a truck to control flow over the trailer.  I haven't tried these myself yet, but the reviews I've read say they improve both  handling and fuel mileage.  It seems to me it would have to deliver a lot of fuel savings to pay back the installation cost but the handling improvements are immediate.  Users have reported noticeable and immediate differences in handling of large vehicles in wind and blow-by from passing trucks.

Another drag on many RVs are the accessories added on top: air conditioners, satellite antennas, storage pods, and luggage strapped into the roof rack. There is not much we can do about air conditioners but we can try to avoid adding other bulky items to the roof. The extra storage is often necessary, but if you can, try to make do with existing cabinets. Adding storage to the roof increases wind resistance. It also raises the center of gravity and can increase roll on corners and susceptibility to cross winds, so keep the weight you put on the roof down to a minimum and choose pods with an aerodynamic shape. Most RVs will have a weight restriction label on the roof near the ladder or a notice in the owner's manual to let you know the maximum weight that can be safely added. Exceeding this weight may permanently damage the structure of your roof and/or seriously affect vehicle handling and safety. And don't forget the risks on your body trying to get heavy stuff up and down from the roof!  I  read of an RVer who planned to carry a spare tire on the roof.  Exceedingly bad idea for at least reasons.  First, the weight and wind drag issues described above.  Second, exposure of the rubber tire to sunlight will speed deterioration.  One tire manufacturer uses the roof of their southern California warehouse as a UV testing facility.

If you tow a trailer, you may want to look into an air deflector to mount on your tow vehicle. You will see over-the-road trucks with steeply sloping deflectors (sometimes built into the cab, sometimes added on). This deflects air so it flows over the trailer instead of impacting the square front directly, reducing wind resistance and improving trailer stability. Add-on wind deflectors are available to fit most popular tow vehicles. I can't speak to how quickly the cost might be recovered in improved mileage, but the increased peace of mind and better handling is immediate.

One of the ways to minimize fuel costs is to reduce the weight being transported. See my previous post "Does your RV  or camp kit need to be put on a diet?" for some suggestions. Take along only what you need. You'd be surprised how heavy that accumulation of little things can be! You really don't need to hauling around the rocks you collected six trips ago or the souvenirs of other trips. And do you really need several pairs of shoes? Tools tend to be heavy, but I find it very hard to lighten my tool box. Still, it is always a good idea to give it a try. If you're carrying around heavy tools you've never needed, you might be able to lighten the load.  Water weighs 8 lbs per gallon.  Having empty holding tanks and only carrying as much fresh water as you need can significantly reduce your rolling weight.

Some "experts" recommend using only name-brand fuels. Off-brands are often cheaper. I recently read an article that stated there is no definable difference between brands and that the off-brand fuels are manufactured in the same refineries and come out of the same tanks as the name brands. They even mentioned that name brand fuels may come from various refineries, such that, for example, fuel you buy at Shell may have been manufactured by Exxon and vice versa. However, name brand fuels usually have proprietary additives that may have benefits.  With all this in mind, I have been using low-priced fuel from off-brand stations whenever I can find it without any noticeable problems. When I'm filling up a 100 gallon RV, a few cents per gallon can add up to a nice savings! Is it worth driving all over town to find the lowest price? Probably not. Even a nickel a gallon for a 100 gallon tank will only amount to a $5.00 savings and you'll probably waste more fuel than that driving around looking for lower prices.

The bottom line is, most of us don't buy RVs for their fuel economy. You may be able to minimize your fuel costs by towing a light weight trailer with a compact car, but if you have a large family or simply appreciate the conveniences of a large travel trailer or motorhome, fuel economy isn't likely to be part of the package. The best we can do is keep our rigs in good condition and drive them in a reasonable manner. Avoid slamming the accelerator to the floor when starting out. Plan ahead for steep grades. Drive at reasonable speeds. Keep weight to a minimum. Avoid wind when you can.

Hills significantly reduce mileage for heavy vehicles like RVs. When you can, plan your routes to avoid steep hills and long grades. An old trucker's trick is to "get a run" at a hill so your momentum can carry you part way up the hill. It works, but don't over do it. You don't want to spend the money you saved on fuel paying a speeding ticket! When you are climbing hills, manually downshift if the engine begins to lug before the automatic transmission downshifts. Even though it forces the engine to run at a higher RPM, it will be more efficient than it will be if it is straining to pull the load. It will save fuel as well as reducing stress on the engine and drive train.

Happy driving!

Related Blogs and Web Sites

Check out My Blog List (right side of screen) for additional RV, OHV, camping, and survival related information. I found them fun and informative and I think you will too. Please let me know if you come across some others we can share with our fellow readers.

There are many good RV and camping web sites on the Internet. A Google or Yahoo search for "rv camping tips" will bring up a plethora of possibilities.  Check out Federal, State, and local parks and recreation sites.  And don't forget the U.S. Forest Service and, for Western states, the BLM.

 Some retailer web sites, like Camping World,and L.L. Bean are a good source of new gadgets and gizmos and camping tips in addition to a useful catalog of common products and services you may need from time to time.

rv-camping.org is a good source for locating campgrounds throughout the United States.

Check out Tread Lightly for vital tips to camp, hike, and ride responsibly in the great outdoors.

Check out freecampgrounds.com for information about camping free in America.

familycampingtips.com is a collection of tips from the authors and readers of this useful web site.

 rv.com is another good source of useful tips and products.

You can also sign up for a plethora of camping and RV related items on Pinterest.com.

Happy blogging and web surfing!

Camp Cooking

My wife should probably be writing this one. She is a whiz at creative cooking and does most of our cooking in camp. She can make frozen corndogs into a gourmet meal. I can't even come close to matching her culinary skills, but I'll do the best I can.  Fortunately, glamorous, appetizing presentation isn't a prerequisite for camp cooking.

One of the basic principles of successful camp or RV cooking the K.I.S.S. principle (Keep It Simple Stupid). We go camping for fun, so camp cooking should be fun too.  One of the advantages of RVing and modern tent camping facilities is the ability to bring a good hint of home with you -- and that includes mealtimes.  Here are some ideas to get you started.

Camp cooking can be fun.  Even if you're preparing the same things you normally cook at home, doing it in camp adds a little bit of adventure.  My wife and daughter-in-law were giddy as a couple of school girls while fixing breakfast when we went tent camping while my son and I got a nice fire going using flint and steel.

Here are some of our favorite meals, accumulated over years of RVing, OHVing, and camping:

Breakfasts. When the kids were young and (over) anxious to start their day riding, we'd often bring along a dozen fresh donuts (well, they were fresh when we bought them the night before) to get everyone off to a quick start the first morning. Not the most nutritious of breakfasts, I'll admit, but quick and easy and provided lots of sugar-energy.   And what kid every turned down donuts?  Add a glass of milk or orange juice and you can feel good about at least part of the "meal". We noticed that some donuts developed a somewhat rancid smell overnight if they weren't refrigerated. We never had that problems with Foster's brand donuts in California, but I don't think the Foster's chain is still in business.  Too bad.  Refrigerating donuts is a way to keep them fresh and avoid having them smell up your RV, but  you may need to warm them up before you eat them.  Since they tend to be best when eaten fresh,  you will probably want to snack on any leftovers the same day rather then try to keep them for another breakfast.  If you need to warm them up and have a microwave oven in your RV, pop them in for a few seconds to take off the chill.  If they're getting particularly dry, put a damp paper towel over them during microwaving.  When tent camping you might try frying them in butter over the campfire or on your trusty Coleman stove.  We found that is a good way to restore day-old pastries to really tasty treats.   Sometimes we deliberately buy day old treats with that in mind, often at substantical savings.

Once you're settled into camp you may find time for more traditional breakfasts. There isn't anything quite like the smell of bacon cooking on an open campfire. A standard breakfast of bacon, eggs, and toast provides much better nutrition than donuts and is not all that hard to fix, even on an open fire. And if you're not up to building a fire first thing in the morning, the RV range, microwave, or trusty Coleman stove will have breakfast ready in a jiffy.

Another favorite, with an almost a pioneer flare, is pancakes. Again pretty easy to make and can be cooked up on the RV or Coleman stove or even over the campfire on a griddle or just in a frying pan. Add some sausage and eggs and you've got plenty of protein to start your day.

Waffles may take a bit more effort, but are even an option when tent camping and campfire cooking using cast iron waffle pans.

Cold cereal is an old standby, however it is not something I enjoy out on the road, especially on cooler mornings. But it is easy, fast, and economical and with appropriate selections is usually a hit with kids.  It is easy to store and transport.   It might be just what you need for warmer desert mornings.

Hot cereal may take a few extra minutes, and since even summer mornings in the desert or mountains can be quite cool, it is a welcome way to start the day. Today's instant packets make it pretty fast and easy, especially if you have a microwave. They may cost a little more than bulk packages, but the convenience is well worth it.  I especially like the instant Cinnabon Cream of Wheat I buy at Dollar Tree --  a box of 3 packages for $1.00.  Pretty good and tasty breakfast for 33 cents a serving!   If you have a microwave in your RV they can be ready in about 1 minute. If you don't have a microwave or don't want to run the generator that early in the morning, boil some water in a teakettle or pan for mixing with instant cereal pouches. If you are feeling a little more adventurous and want to add a pioneer experience to your outing, try corn meal mush. Just cook corn meal in water with a little salt on medium heat for 5-7 minutes. Then serve it with butter and honey.

Lunches. Lunches should always be simple affairs, quick and easy to fix, and with little cleanup. You really don't want to stop what you're doing in the middle of the day to fix or even eat a fancy meal. and then have a lot of clean up to do afterwards. Sandwiches and hot dogs are favorites around our camp. Add some chips and macaroni or potato salad, perhaps some pork and beans, and you've got quite a complete meal without a lot of fuss. Serve it all up on paper plates and you don't even have many dishes to do. Hot dogs can be cooked over the campfire, grilled, fried up in a pan, or boiled. Campfire dogs taste best.  You can even toast your hotdog buns on a stick over the campfire if you're careful. I only boil hotdogs if I have to do a whole bunch of them at once to serve a large group all at the same time.

Dinners. Here's where you may want to invest a little more time and make cooking fun. Old standbys, like hamburgers are almost always a hit. French fries are a bit messy and time consuming in camp unless you microwave some frozen fries.  Steaks are great if you have the budget for them and have a special flavor when grilled over the campfire. Be sure to wrap some potatoes in foil and bake them in the campfire to round out the meal in gourmet fashion. Chili and beef stew are nice on cold nights. With the availability of unbreakable acrylic stemware, you can serve up a quite elegant dinner in your RV, including a touch of the bubbly. Your "bubbly" may have to be sparkling cider as alcohol is prohibited in some campgrounds so make sure to check the rules before you get into trouble. Preparing and serving dinner, as well as consuming it, can be a family affair, a chance for teaching and learning and sharing more than just recipes. There are plenty of tasks to go around. Preparing specific dishes, getting the fire going or the BBQ set up, setting the table. You can bake potatoes right in the coals of the campfire and, of course, they are a perfect side to a fire-broiled steak. Wrap them in aluminum foil and bury them in the coals so they will cook evenly all around. I like to brush mine with butter before wrapping them up. Hobo stews are easy dinners too. Wrap meat, potatoes, carrots and (optionally) onions and other favorite vegetables and seasoning in aluminum foil and bury the packets in the coals. We like to pre-cook the meat in the microwave or on the top of the stove to speed cooking in the campfire and ensure the meat is nicely browned and sufficiently cooked to prevent botulism.

RV and camp stove cooking provide an almost home-like cooking experience in camp. I say "almost" because even though RV and camp stoves approximate our residential ranges functionality, they aren't quite the same. If nothing else, they are more compact so you have to make some adjustments in how you use them.  Ovens and burners aren't quite as large.  The temperature control may not be quite as responsive as it is at home, especially on camp stoves (its pretty good on the propane stoves in RVs, but the ovens are kind of picky). You'll need to watch what you're doing more closely and be prepared to remove things from the heat or make adjustments as necessary. Cooking may take longer and you may have to work with smaller portions and do things in shifts.  the large pans you may like to use at home might not fit on RV or camp stoves.

Campfire cooking can be a fun, rewarding and exciting experience. Give yourself time to experiment and to develop your skills. It takes time to get used to cooking on an open fire. About your only way of controlling temperature and cooking speed is by how close you hold the pan to the fire. Things will continue to cook for some time after removing a heavy cast iron pot or pan from the fire. But with a little practice it can be fun. Obviously it can be done successfully. After all, man has survived by cooking on open fires for tens of thousands of years. We just don't know how many burned or raw meals they had to endure before getting it down.

Dutch oven cooking can provide a single dish meal and is great for stews, pot roast, chicken, soups, and a variety of main dishes. Dutch ovens also are a great way to bake breads and desserts. If you are interested in trying this time-proven method, check out one of the many dutch oven cook books or search for recipes and tips online. Charcoal is the preferred fuel for dutch oven cooking, so you need to prepare ahead of time and leave time to get the coals ready if you want to try out this form of camp cooking. I think of Dutch ovens as a pioneer crockpot.  You can toss in all the ingredients, set the coals, and let them cook for hours without any further attention while you enjoy your activities.

Beverages. There is something special about hot beverages prepared on the campfire. You might keep a pot of boiling water ready all the time to prepare instant hot drinks when needed.  Although I'm not a coffee drinker, the smell of it brewing is pleasant and appealing. Even "ordinary" hot chocolate takes on a special flavor prepared on and served around the campfire, but added flavors (caramel, vanilla, hazelnut, cinnamon, mint etc) can make it really special. Try dropping a fire-toasted (not burnt!) marshmallow on top for a super special treat. For warm summer days, a cooler full of cold beverages is almost a requirement. Water and sports drinks are healthier and better at quenching thirst and preventing dehydration than sodas and beer. Alcohol and caffeine can speed dehydration.  We have experimented with a few summer punch recipes over the years. A favorite we found very refreshing is cucumber punch. It is made from ginger ale, frozen lime concentrate, and sliced cucumbers. I like to add a touch of green food coloring. Served over ice, it is incredibly cooling and refreshing, without the sticky aftertaste of many sodas. It is fun to make it up in a wash tub for large groups. For the ultimate presentation, be sure to ladle a slice of fresh lime into each glass.

Novelties. I have previously mentioned one of our favorite campfire novelties: instant pies. You need bread, pie filling, and, obviously, the pie-makers. Campfire pie makers are long-handled clam shell cookers.  You put a slice of bread in one side, add a scoop of your favorite pie filling, put a second slice of bread on top, close it up and put it in the fire.  In a few minutes you have fresh baked pie.  It was surprising how much ordinary white bread tasted like pie crust when cooked this way.  Of course don't forget the traditional S'mores. Just be prepared for plenty of pyrotechnic entertainment and sticky marshmallow everywhere! On hot days, snow-cones are an instant hit and very refreshing. You'll need lots of ice and a grinder plus various flavors of syrups. Snow-cone syrup can usually be purchased at restaurant supply stores like Smart and Final.  In a pinch make your own from Kool-Aid mix or even dry Jello.

Baking in camp.  RV ovens are a little more than half the size of the one at home.  That puts the burners closer to the cooking platform, sometimes resulting in over-cooked bottoms and raw tops on baked goods.  Baking in camp is going to take some practice  Also pay attention to elevation and follow the special high altitude instructions on the package for things like cake mixes.  Convection ovens are helpful in providing more even heat distribution and reduced cooking times.  Coleman makes an oven that sets on top of your camp stove so even tent campers can do some baking.  They're only about 1' square, so you may have to make smaller portions and bake in shifts.

The availability of microwave ovens to many RV campers gives you a lot of options for quick and easy meals in camp.  There are microwave version of just about every meal or snack.  Frozen meals might be a bit more expensive than those made from scratch, but the added convenience might be worth it. 

Cooking adventures. I've seen Scoutmasters with special wilderness training prepare a whole breakfast in an orange peel. If that kind of experimentation appeals to you, do check it out.  It can be fun.  I've seen it done but never tried it myself. It really looks to be quite fun and tasty as well as ecologically sound. We've cooked up rattlesnake on a couple of desert outings, and, yes, it does taste like chicken. Anyone who has watched Survivorman has seen him cook rodents on a stick. I'm not sure eating rodents appeals to me, but it might be worth trying if you think you'll need the skill for survival. Not sure I could stomach it under normal circumstances, but it would probably be good practice and might be critical in a survival situation.

Speaking of adventures, there are some you WON'T want to experience, such as spilling grease into the fire. This is not uncommon when cooking bacon in a fry pan on a campfire. The resulting flare-up will likely ruin a lot more than your breakfast fare! I've seen more than one unhappy camper go home sans eyebrows and missing hair on their hands and arms. Flare-ups may also catch your clothing on fire. If that happens, DON'T PANIC! About the worst thing you can do is run when you're on fire. The best thing is to drop to the ground and roll to put the fire out. Of course, if you're exercising proper fire safety procedures, you will have a bucket of water and/or sand close by to assist with putting the fire out. If you are burned, by either hot grease or by the flames, immediately cool the burned area with clean cool water. You may minimize your chances of spilling grease into the fire in the first place by using a cooking grid to support your frying pan instead of placing it directly on uneven and unstable wood and coals. Lacking a steel grid, you might make a temporary one from green tree limbs, but it won't last long over a hot fire. Rocks can sometimes be arranged to support pans. Just make sure they aren't porous.  Porous rocks may contain moisture than can expand with explosive force!  A frequent mistake of novice campfire chefs is grabbing the handle of a pot or pan with a bare hand. Bad mistake! The handles get very hot, so use gloves, hot pads, pliers or oven mittens to grasp the handles. Dutch oven lids have special "lifters" or you can use a pair of pliers (I find Channelock style slip-joint pliers work best because of the angled jaws). More than one camper has been badly burned trying to rescue his dinner from the fire. Very few meals (none I know of!), are worth the agony of blistered fingers or burned hands, so if you must retrieve something, use a utensil or a stick, and not your bare hands. Better to drag that steak out into the dirt and wash it off than end up with the flesh of your hands more cooked than your dinner!

Bon appetite!

OHVs: New or Used

The most common factor in decided whether to buy a new or used OHV is usually cost. Other factors may include availability and specific features you're looking for. Sometimes pre-owned OHVs will have been upgraded with many desirable options that are very expensive if you add them to a new machine yourself.

New OHVs can be quite expensive, but they will come with some warranty and you won't be buying someone else's problems. And you can order them from the dealer or factory with the options you want. Dealers may often give you a discount on any riding gear or accessories you want to purchase at the same time. If you are committed to buying new and are flexible on timing, consider making your purchase at the end of the season when you can take advantage of mark-downs on last year's models to get the best deal.

Used OHVs can save you quite a bit of money and they may include expensive after-market upgrades that will save you even more. But, there could be problems from previous abuse or improper maintenance. After all, there is some reason the previous owner is selling. Sometimes the sale has nothing to do with any existing problems with the equipment. Some riders routinely upgrade every year or so.  Sometimes there are extenuating circumstances which force the sale (illness, job loss, moving, divorce, etc).  It is up to you to determine the condition and acceptability of your purchase. A thorough inspection of the vehicle is, of course, mandatory. If you are not equipped to make the inspection yourself, it is a good idea to invest in the services of a professional motorcycle mechanic to check out your potential purchase. Also talk with the seller about why he is selling and about his maintenance habits. Obtain maintenance records if possible and always test-ride the vehicle. It should start easily and run smoothly. Clutch and brakes should work well, acceleration should be good and there should be no unusual vibrations.

Here are some guidelines for buying a used motorcycle.   Many of the recommendations given here can be adapted to test driving any used OHV. 

I've had pretty good luck with used OHVs, but have gotten a couple of lemons too. It is all too easy to get excited about a potential purchase and forget to do your due diligence in checking it out. When that happens you will pay for it later. Better to take a little extra time and effort in evaluating any vehicles you are considering. Avoid getting into a situation where you have an urgent need to make a purchase. Try to take your time and carefully evaluate all your options. Remember, that if the price is too good to be true, there is probably something wrong with the unit.

Buying on the Internet. There are a lot of good bargains advertised on the Internet, but how can you tell if they are any good? Obviously, you will want to personally inspect any vehicles before committing to purchase if possible. If not, be sure to ask a lot of pertinent questions and verify the credentials and reputation of the seller. I have purchased several dirt bikes from Internet ads and have been pretty satisfied with all of them.  I was able to inspect and test ride each one before I bought it.  I have purchased two motorhomes through ebay. The first one I bought from a more-or-less local private party and one of my sons still has it. The second I bought from a "reputable" dealer in Arizona and was VERY disappointed. My first fuel stop after leaving the dealer lot showed the Detroit diesel engine was 3-quarts low on oil -- after the dealer had assured me the unit had just been serviced and the oil just changed when I bought it. It wasn't leaking any oil and was still full when I got home 200 miles later, so obviously he was mistaken or lied about the service. However, when I took the family out for a short ride the next week, the engine started knocking like a foundry after only a couple of miles and had to be replaced. My "reputable" dealer refused any assistance. I should have doubted them when I arrived at the lot and found some of the features and equipment had been misrepresented on their listing on ebay but, in their defense, they made good on the advertised features. Most dealers offer at least a 30-day drive-train warranty, but because of the age of the vehicle (it was a 1986 model year and I purchased it in 2004) and a price are below market they refused any warranty. That should have been another flag that I should just go home and keep looking. Keep in mind dealers normally get higher prices than private parties to cover reconditioning and warranty work. This was a consignment sale, so the dealer didn't invest anything in reconditioning or warranty. It was a very expensive mistake. Would I consider buying over the Internet again? Yes. But I would also be more cautious before accepting delivery.  In my defense, the unit was a relatively rare Holiday Rambler and even after replacing the engine I still got it below market price.  It just wasn't the super deal I thought I was getting.

A used vehicle is likely to have had the suspension adjusted to fit the owner's height, weight and riding style so you may need to adjust it to make it right for you.  A dirt bike that seems too tall or too short or too stiff or too soft may only need some adjustments to be just right for you.

Buy what's right for you!

OHV: Buy or Rent?

Buying or renting an OHV is very different from buying or renting an RV. Sources to rent Off Highway Vehicles are more limited as are your options when you get there. The lack of OHV rental stores may quickly make the decision for you. If you do have a place you can rent OHVs, it may be wise to try out some different vehicles before you decide to purchase one. Lacking a rental source, you may want to start out with an inexpensive used unit or find a friend who can loan you a vehicle for a weekend or two until you're sure you want to continue . New OHVs tend to be a little pricey, and, if you decide the OHV lifestyle isn't for you, you'll lose a chunk of change if you sell. Remember, the minute you take delivery of a new vehicle it becomes a used vehicle, even if all you do is take it home and put it in the garage and never ride it. If you have a used OHV that is truly unused or has very low hours/mileage, you might get a premium used price for it, but you'll still lose money.   On the other hand, you might find someone who has a low use pre-owned OHV that can save you a bundle of money.

One advantage I've found to buying used is that they often have after market extras that add little to the price but a lot to the performance and/or functionality.  Upgraded levers, sprockets, and chains usually are more durable than OEM components and often out perform them.  The addition of things like a steering stabilizer to a dirt bike are a real nice addition.  Steering stabilizers are quite expensive initially but usually don't add much to resale.

When buying a used OHV you need to inspect it carefully. The very nature of how OHVs are used exposes them to damage on the trail. Look for cracked or badly scratched plastic that may indicate the rider has abused the machine or at least bailed hard. Make sure the wheels aren't bent and the spokes are tight. Check the tires to makes sure they are serviceable, without sidewall cracks or missing knobbies. All controls should work smoothly. Grips should be in good condition. Lights, if any, should be working. Chains and sprockets should not show excessive wear or excessive slack. Aftermarket accessories and upgrades are a mixed bag. Sellers will often promote the value of after market add-ons, but do you really need them and want to pay for them? Some upgrades from stock may add value, but other after market replacements may just mean the owner didn't want to pay for OEM parts. Most after market upgrades add little to the "Blue Book" value of a used machine.  Expect normal wear and tear. Some scratched plastic is to be expected as is light damage to grips and tires. Loose spokes can be tightened, if you know what you're doing, but it may indicate a general lack of maintenance by the previous owner which could lead to premature failure of main parts. Check the level and condition of coolant and engine and transmission oil. Coolant should be clean and full. Black oil is OK, but be very wary if the oil level or coolant level is very low or the oil is gritty or cloudy or smells burnt. If there is oil in the coolant there are probably cracks or leaking seals in the engine or water pump. The engine should start fairly easily, keeping mind it may take some effort to kick-start large engines. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's or previous owner's recommendations for starting procedures. Too much or too little choke or throttle will make an engine hard to start. Once you have it started, the clutch should work smoothly and the vehicle should not try to creep when in gear and the clutch is pulled in. Brakes should work efficiently with no squealing or scraping sounds.   If you feel any pulsing in the brake lever or pedal the drums or rotors are probably out of round or warped and will need replacing.  You should not see or feel any wheel wobble when riding or rolling the vehicle. If you don't feel qualified to complete the inspection it would be a good investment to pay a competent OHV mechanic to check it out for you. A hundred bucks invested in a thorough inspection might save you $2500-3000 in engine repairs.  Many OHV owners take pride in their machines and take good care of them, but you may encounter an occasional rider who has abused the heck out his toys.  The only way to find out (unless you happen to have friends who know his riding and maintenance habits) is to get a thorough mechanical check up.  Some things to watch out for:  suspicious noises in the engine, transmission, or brakes, difficulty starting, leaks, excessive smoke in the exhaust, oil in the coolant, low compression (i.e., it kicks over too easy), and anything that feels loose or "squirrelly".

Bargain hunting. Just about everyone loves a good bargain. It is possible to find legitimate bargains on used OHVs if you know what to look for. A cheap price does not necessarily make a bargain. A higher price is not always out of line. You need to consider the value and the condition. Some OHVs may be priced cheap because there is something wrong with them or because they have seen extreme use that may lead to premature failure. Careful inspection by you and/or your mechanic is required to separate the bargains from the junk. Sometimes there are extenuating circumstances the contribute to legitimately low prices. A rider who has been injured (and not necessarily while riding the OHV you are looking at) may be looking for a quick sale. Illnesses in the family or employment issues may prompt a rider to unload toys he no longer as the time or money to use.  Listen to the seller's justification for the asking price (regardless of whether it is low or high). Pay attention to non-verbal signs that might indicate a less than truthful representation of the situation. If you hear conflicting or changing information, keep looking! There are plenty of good used OHVs out there to choose from.  There is no reason to get stuck with a lemon.

Happy hunting!

RV: New or Used?

Should you buy your RV new or used? This is a question that is worth a second look. You will have to decide for yourself, but here are some thoughts to consider. RVs often get little use so it is fairly easy to find used units in very good and even nearly new condition. Used units sometimes offer additional advantages, such as added features and have already passed their "infant mortality" stage and have already absorbed the initial depreciation generated by just going from new to used. It is not uncommon for new RVs to suffer several manufacturing defects that need to be corrected, known as "infant mortality". They are usually handled quickly and efficiently under warranty, but there is always some loss of use and some inconvenience in arranging the warranty work.  I once had a brand new Class A motorhome that spent at least 1/4 of its first year back at the dealer or the factory for repairs.

Buying new gives you maximum control over the features and color combinations in your unit and you do have a manufacturer's warranty to take care of any problems that arise in the first year or so. Being able to choose your options and color schemes allows you to customize your purchase to your individual preferences and needs when you order a new unit.  Of course, if you're buying off the lot (new or used) you'll have to work with what is there.

Buying used can save you a lot of money. The minute you sign the papers on a new vehicle it becomes a used vehicle and its value instantly drops. When you buy a used vehicle, someone else has already taken that loss. Since RVs often get little use, you can usually find good clean late-model units in very good or nearly new condition at thousands of dollars off the original sales price. When buying a used vehicle you also need to consider where you buy it. Buying from a private party will probably get you the lowest price, but buying from a reputable dealer can bring limited warranties and all functions will probably have been checked and any necessary repairs made prior to offering the vehicle for sale.

I have personally purchased both new and used RVs and I tend to lean toward used as being the better value -- at least for me. Of course, I've had enough experience to know what to look out for in used units and some skill and background in dealing with problems. You may not be as comfortable as I am with diagnosing or fixing issues.

Inspect your potential purchase carefully. If you don't have the expertise to verify mechanical condition, have it check out by a reliable mechanic. Examine the interior for excessive wear, foul odors, stains or soft spots on the walls, floors, and ceiling. Verify that all appliances are working properly. Minor damage that has been successfully repaired should not be a concern. You don't want discover major problems after you get it home. Even some significant issues may be OK -- IF you know about them before buying and you are prepared to make the necessary repairs, either yourself or have them done by a professional. Any significant repairs should bring the purchase price down enough to cover the costs. If the seller won't accommodate your request, keep looking. There are LOTS of used RVs out there and it is a buyers' market.

New or used? Its up to you!

RV: Buy or Rent?

Should you buy or rent an RV? If you are new to the RV lifestyle, I strongly suggest you rent or borrow an RV for at least a weekend or two and see if it works for you. This will also allow you to try different types of RVs to see which one fits your lifestyle and find out if you like RVing at all. RVs don't come cheap and they can be fairly expensive to maintain. The last thing you want to do is spend a lot of your savings or take on a big vehicle loan for something you will seldom use or that doesn't fit your needs.  If you buy an RV and don't use it you can count on losing part of your investment when you sell it.

Not everyone is cut out for RVing.   My Mom and grown sister tried taking a trip or two in their Class C motorhome after my father passed away and discovered it didn't work for them.  Although they both had experience and enjoyed camping the in the motorhome with my Dad, they weren't comfortable doing it alone.  I have a friend whose idea of roughing it is having to ring twice for room service.  He would NOT like camping or RVing, even in the most luxurious rig!  Of course, you if don't particularly like driving in the first place, moving up to driving an RV would be a major adjustment.


Now, lets say, you've decided you like RVing.  Should you buy one or continue to rent? The pure economics may help you make that decision. Take into consideration how often and for how long you will use your RV. If you will be using in for only occasional, short outings a few times a year or less, renting may be a lot cheaper than buying. If you are going to use your RV extensively or someday even think of living it full time, you probably should consider buying.  We used ours to go dirt biking almost every holiday weekend when the kids were growing up.  It was convenient to have it always ready and to have it stored at home where we could pack up and go anytime we wanted to.  It was also very nice to have almost everything already on board.  In my case it was the convenience that was the main deciding factor, along with frequent use.  Owning made more sense than renting.  If you own your own RV you can customize it to suit your wants and needs.

The biggest advantage to renting over buying is financial.  When you rent you only pay for the RV when you're using it and don't tie up a lot of cash in a vehicle that might sit unused most of the time.  Other money matters include insurance, maintenance, and storage.  It probably doesn't make sense to take on an RV loan payment of, say $400 a month if you can rent what you need for a few hundred bucks a few times a year.   If you live in an apartment or there isn't room for you RV on your property, storing it off site adds the the expense and makes it less convenient to maintain and to use.

There are other advantages to owning an RV over renting one. First and foremost in my mind is convenience. I have my RV parked at my home where it is always ready if I want to take a trip. I don't have to make reservations or pick it up a few days in advance of my trip to load it up with my personal supplies. I can also add features to meet my individual needs and don't have to rely on someone else's idea of what is necessary or convenient. I also keep my RV stocked as a Disaster Recovery Vehicle. In the event of an earthquake or if my house burns down, I have emergency shelter, clothing, food, first aid, and sanitary facilities ready for immediate use. We have used our RV in two live disaster scenarios. One was when our neighborhood was threatened by a poisonous chlorine gas cloud and we ordered to evacuate. The second was the Northridge Earthquake. For many hours after the quake, we were the only ones in our neighborhood with power for our TVs and refrigerator thanks to the generator in our motorhome. Had our home been damaged so it could not be occupied, we could have instantly moved into our RV.

Storage is another consideration. If you you live in an apartment or don't have anyplace on your property or there are zoning, CCRs, or other restrictions to prevent parking your RV on your property, you will have to find a storage facility if you own your own RV. Having to store your RV off-site adds both expense and inconvenience to RV ownership, so if you can't store your RV at your place of residence, you should, again, perhaps consider renting.  Over restrictive CCRs are a pet peeve of mine.  I've seen developments where CCRs prohibited even storing a tent trailer or boat inside your garage!  Sometimes they claim the presence of RVs in the driveway or along side homes reduces property values.  Yeah, right!  Having a $200,000 RV parked next to your home or a $20,000 boat in the garage is really going to bring down the neighborhood!  But, of course, we've all seen some bad situations, like one or more ratty trailers or campers jammed onto a small lot and its far easier to ban all RVs rather than try to enforce some kind of subjective judgement on suitability.

If you choose to rent, check out the rental company carefully. Make sure they have a good reputation for providing safe, reliable equipment and maintaining their equipment in good condition and treating their customers fairly. You aren't going to have a good experience or get a fair chance at what RVing is really like if you rent a worn out, trashed unit that gives you trouble.  Some rentals are done "by owner" and they can often get you the best rates, but be sure to get and check references to be sure the equipment is properly maintained and the owner is fair and honest in dealing with his/her customers.

If you choose to buy, check out the dealer carefully. I once purchased a pre-owned motorhome from a dealer who told me it had been recently serviced, including a complete oil change, and was ready to go. After driving only a couple hundred miles I found it was 3 quarts low on oil. There were no observable leaks or smoke in the exhaust. That engine failed completely a few hundred miles later, I suspect largely a result of it having been driven with low oil for who-knows-how-long even before I bought it. Obviously the dealer was either mistaken or flat out lied to me. This was an older unit and didn't have any warranty.  Late model units should come with at least a 30 day dealer warranty. Older units, and units purchased from private parties are not likely to come with any guarantee, so take that into consideration when buying. Is the price good enough that you can afford to make any needed repairs? Or would you be better off paying a little more to a reputable dealer and getting at least a short-term warranty that gives you some peace of mind?  It is a good idea to have any vehicle checked by a competent mechanic before you purchase it, especially if you're buying it from a private party and will have no warranty.  If  you get a warranty, be sure to take your RV out during the warranty period so you can identify any issues while they are still covered. In our case, the RV was a relatively rare older Holiday Rambler and the price was low enough that it was still a good investment even after having to replace the engine.

Orphans. Orphans are RVs whose manufacturer has gone out of business. You can often find good deals on such units because some people are reluctant to purchase them for fear of lack of support. But consider this: almost all motorhomes are built on commercial chassis whose manufacturers are still very much in business.   Even though Dodge stopped making chassis for Class A motorhomes some years ago, the mechanical components are pretty much the same as on their heavy duty trucks and readily available.  Many motorhomes are built on Chevrolet "Workhorse" chassis or Ford chassis and you should be able to get parts and service most anywhere.  .Likewise, almost all the appliances in RVs come from companies that have been around a long time, are still in business today, and probably will be for at least as long as you own your unit. With that in mind, you may find an orphan RV can be an exceptional bargain. My Dad and I have owned at least two or three orphans in our RVing careers and their orphan status was never an issue -- and all were exceptionally good deals when we bought them and we never encountered any impossible repairs.

Summary. Renting is a good option for newcomers, giving them a chance to find out if the RV lifestyle is right for them and which type of RV they prefer. It is also a viable option if you don't have a place to store your RV or won't be using it often. Buying is the way to go if you intend to use your RV frequently or may even live it full time someday. It also allows you to use your RV as a Disaster Recovery Vehicle, to customize is to meet your specific needs and preferences, and have it ready for spontaneous outings.

As always, HAVE FUN!

RV Trip Preparation

Like any trip, an RV trip begins with planning. Where are you going? When are you going? How long will it take to get there? How long are you going to stay? What activities will you be involved in? How many people in your party? Does anyone have special diet or medical requirements? Will any special equipment, clothing, or supplies be needed? Are there any special events (like birthdays, anniversaries, holidays, or other celebrations) that will occur during the outing that require special preparations?

Once I have answered these questions, I begin preparing my RV. Plan to plug your RV into shore power and turn on the refrigerator at least a day or two before departure to cool the fridge. I always remove the ice cube trays from my RV after each trip and freeze the ice cubes in the home fridge ahead of time and put them back in the RV when we're going on a trip.  That way they won't spill while one the road.  If you can, pre-cool all the items you put into the fridge. Check to make sure your fresh water tank is filled (unless you're headed to a campground with hookups and want to reduce traveling weight) and holding tanks are empty. Check your propane level to be sure you have enough for your trip.  I like to top off the propane before each trip just to be sure, usually fillling it up at the end of each trip before storing my  RV.  Investing a little time and money in doing so sure beats running out of propane for the furnace on a cold night or for the fridge on a hot day!  Inspect non-perishable provisions and replace those you have consumed or have become contaminated or outdated. Check closets and drawers to make sure you are bringing clothing that is appropriate to the season, destination, and planned activities and remove items you won't need.  You probably don't need parkas and snowsuits for a summer trip nor speedos in the winter!

Over the years I have created a checklist I use for each RV trip. The list includes checking RV and vehicle systems, provisions, supplies, clothing, and tools. I use similar checklist to prepare my OHVs and for each individual in my family to check their personal riding gear. It may seem to you that it is way more trouble than it is worth -- until you arrive at your destination and find out you left something critical at home! No, I'm not OCD; I've just learned, the hard way, that a few extra minutes spent in preparation saves hours of frustration and "catch up" on the road. I once started to fix dinner in camp, a simple can of chili, and discovered I didn't have a can opener! We had to make a trip into the nearest town to try to get one before we could have dinner and still ended up using a "church key" (beer can opener), a clumsy and risky way to open cans.  Check lists are not just for wusses!  Air line pilots, physicians, and astronauts use them regularly and religiously.

Always leave your travel plans with someone:, a relative, a friend, a neighbor. Even if you are only going away for a weekend. If something happens and you don't return on time, someone will notice and will know where to start looking for you. If you are going to gone more than a weekend, you may want to stop mail and newspaper deliveries or have a neighbor pick them up so you don't leave clues for potential burglars that your home is unoccupied for a time. You will probably want to turn off the A/C at home while you're gone so you don't waste electricity. In moderate climates you may also want to turn off the furnace. In cold climates, where freeze-protection is needed, turn the furnace down but not off. No need to waste fuel keeping the house at a comfortable temperature when all that is needed is to keep it above freezing so you don't return to burst pipes! It is often suggested that you notify your local police or sheriff's department if you are going to be away for any length of time so they can monitor your home for suspicious activity. Just be sure to let them know when you get back so they don't think YOU are burglarizing your own home when you return.

If you have an entertainment system in your RV you may want to choose several favorite CDs or movies to bring along and make sure the components are working properly. Everything might have worked OK during your last trip, but after some time in storage, things could change.  A good rule to follow is "if it hasn't been tested, it doesn't work".

Plan your meals well in advance so you can obtain the necessary ingredients and make sure you have the proper pots and pans and utensils to cook them. You'll need a well defined menu in order to purchase provisions.  Not everyone keeps cake pans in their RV all the time, so make sure you bring some along if you're planning to bake a cake! Take stock of your disposable kitchen supplies (napkins, paper towels, paper plates, paper cups, paper bowls). Using disposables instead of washing dishes saves time, conserves water, and reduces the amount of stuff in your holding tanks. You also save on propane that would have been used to heat water for doing dishes. Environmentalists may frown on disposable dishes, but for camping, it makes a lot of sense and given the reduction in the consumption of on-board resources may actually be "greener" than washing dishes. While there is an appeal to spontaneity, having a pre-determined menu saves time in camp. It is helpful to organize and prepare ingredients ahead of time before you leave home and store them close together for quicker meals in camp. You can always switch some meals around if plans (or weather or appetite) changes.

Clean your windows and lights -- on your motorhome or your tow vehicle and trailer. Clean windows and lights on motor vehicles are essential for safety. Clean windows on your coach allow you to enjoy the views. If you let dirty windows stay dirty, they become harder and harder to clean as residue builds up. Some hard water residues can cause permanent damage to the surface of the glass.  Bad hard water stains can sometimes be removed using vinegar and a single edge razor blade or similar scraper.

Vehicle systems checks. Check all your tires. Test tire pressure and examine them for tread wear and side-wall cracks. Check radiator and heater hoses and replace any that are leaking, brittle, or spongy. Check fan or serpentine belts. It is much easier to replace them -- and probably a lot less expensive -- before you leave than it will be out on the road, to say nothing of the inconvenience and delay it may cause. Check the oil, in both your vehicle engine and your generator. Check windshield washer fluid and wipers. Top off the washer fluid and replace damaged wipers. Check and, if necessary, top off power steering, brake, and transmission fluid. If your vehicle has a hydraulically operated clutch, check the clutch fluid and top off if necessary. Check your batteries, both vehicle and coach batteries. Check fluid levels and top off with distilled water if low. DO NOT use ordinary tap water, except in an emergency, as it contains minerals and chemicals that may contaminate the battery and reduce performance and life expectancy.

Test all your internal RV systems a few days before your trip so you have time to make or arrange for any necessary repairs. Start the generator. Run the roof A/C. While the generator is running, heat a cup of water in your microwave if your RV has one.   Fire up the water heater and the furnace. As previously mentioned, start the fridge a day or so before the trip. Turn on the water pump and make sure water flows to all faucets.  If there is a problem with one faucet, remove and clean the screen on the faucet.  If none of them are working verify the fresh water tank is full and that the pump has power and correct any problems found.   I like to make sure all the interior lights are working so I am not inconvenienced during the outing. I also carry plenty of spare bulbs in case one fails on the road.

Bedding. Make sure you have adequate bedding for the climate, weather, and number of people in your group. Make sure sheets and pillow cases are clean and in good repair. When we had a large motorhome we liked to keep a couple of extra sleeping bags in the motorhome in case it gets unusually cold or we have trouble with the furnace -- or have unexpected guests.  That may not be a viable option if you have a smaller rig, but it is always a good idea to carry an extra blanket or two if you have room.  If space is limited you may have to put it on the bed.  You can always kick it off if is too warm and it will be really welcome on an unexpectedly cold night!

Medicine cabinet. Check your first aid kit and any medications you may keep on board. Replenish as needed and replace expired supplies. I try to keep a variety of over-the-counter remedies on board, such as Aspirin, generic Tylenol, antacids, allergy medications, antacids, and anti-diarrhea tablets. Verify that you have sufficient sanitary supplies (hand and face lotions, sunscreen, soaps, shampoos, razors, after shave, deodorants, facial tissue,  holding tank chemicals, tissues, and toilet paper). Consider the needs of your particular family and stock up accordingly.

Tools and supplies: make at least a quick pass through your on-board tools to make sure you still have all the essentials and they're where they should be. It is way too easy for things to be left out or put away improperly the last time the were used. Also verify your stock of spare bulbs and fuses, electrical wire, electrical tape, and duct tape. Check on board flashlights and spare batteries. If your spares have been around for awhile, test them to see if they are still good. Check batteries in remote controls for TVs, VCRS, DVD Players, and ceiling fans. Verify that you have spares for these as well as for all flashlights and battery-operated lanterns.

Cleaning supplies: you will need basic cleaning supplies to maintain the inside of your RV. A good general purpose cleaner similar to 409 is always useful. We espeically like "Awesome Orange"cleaner from Dollar Tree.   Glass cleaner does a better job on mirrors and windows. Some RV fixtures can be damaged by harsh cleansers. If yours are among them, some kind of "soft scrub" cleanser, like Bon Ami ("hasn't scratched yet") or Bar Keepers Friend, can usually be used to keep them in good shape. There are usually a lot of wooden surfaces in most RVs so an aerosol furniture polish is also handy for keeping them looking good. Most RVs have at least some carpeted areas, so a spray carpet cleaner can be useful.  Bring plenty of paper towels. You will find dozens of uses for them in and out of your RV. Sponges and scouring pads are useful for stubborn cooking utensils. Some big RVs have a washer and dryer. Even if yours does not, you may need to bring along laundry soap if you are going to be away from home for more than a few days so you can hit a laundromat or use one in a campground or at a friend's or relative's home -- or even wash out your clothes in the sink.  A mixture of vinegar and soda will often revive yellowed or faded plastic fixtures like RV bathroom sinks and toilets.

Snacks and treats. I don't know about you, but snacks and treats are a big part of the fun during most of my family's outings. Over the years we have developed some traditions we cling to. I personally find that chewing bubble gum or eating sunflower seeds helps me stay alert on long drives. The whole family enjoys cookies and milk and the kids especially like "Red Vines". Chips and dips are always a hit both on the road and once you make camp. A particular favorite of mine for colder days, picked up from a fellow camper is corn chips (scoop style) and a warm dip made from chili and cream cheese. Really quick and easy to make and sure to please on chilly evenings. The main thing is to bring along things you and your family will enjoy. You are likely to find that snacking may even replace meals when you are involved in engaging activities and most snacks require little or no preparation and minimal cleanup. With that in mind, you may want to include several "healthy" snacks. I find munching on sun flower seeds helps be stay alert while driving.  I like the dill pickle flavor.  It has enough kick to be tasty and fun to eat but isn't as hard on soft tissues in the mouth as ordinary salted seeds.

Activities: even if the primary purpose of your trip is to ride your OHVs, you will still have time in the evening or during inclement weather, for additional activities. Traditional campfire activities include sing-alongs and story-telling. If you are musically inclined, you may want to bring your instrument to entertain yourself and your fellow campers. You will usually find a warm and appreciative audience. Because we can never really predict the weather, you may want to include both indoor and outdoor games and activities. For those with entertainment systems or portable TVs in their RVs, movies can be a good way to keep everyone happy on a rainy afternoon or evening. Table games, such as Yahtzee and Uno have a permanent place in the cabinets under the dinette in our motorhome. Horseshoes is an ever-popular outdoor game and takes up little room. There are several other outdoor games, such as lawn darts, that lend themselves well to camping adventures. A soccer ball can be used for a number of different games besides soccer, such as volleyball, basketball and dodge ball. If your family enjoys baseball or football, toss in a bat and ball or a football. Badminton is a long-time campsite pastime.  For some of our desert outings we've included some skeet shooting. Let your imagination and your personal interest be your guide. Over time you will discover which activities work best for your family and begin to establish some traditions that all will enjoy.

OHVs. Be sure to review post on OHV Trip Preparations to make sure your toys and gear are ready to go and will do their jobs. That means all equipment and gear is accounted for and is clean and in good repair and properly stowed for travel.

Most important of all, HAVE FUN!

Choosing Destinations

In real estate, the mantra is Location, Location, Location.  That also might be said for camping.  Camping overnight in a stadium parking lot is a far different experience than spending a day or two in a primitive campground in the forest or at the beach.

There are at least as many reasons for choosing any particular destination as there are RVers -- probably more, since is it likely that each of us may has interest in more than kind of experience and therefore more than one destination. That is certainly the case with my family. While most of our RV excursions also involve OHV activities, which by necessity takes us to remote, usually desert places, we also enjoy day trips to the beach and to the mountains and an occasional tent camping trip just for fun.  While there are definite advantages to returning to favorite spots, exploring and discovering new places to visit is also a lot of fun.

Time of year and climate may be a factor in choosing a destination.  You will probably want to get away from summer heat with a trip to the mountains or the beach.  Desert venues are great for OHV riding, but can be excessively hot during the summer.  In moderate seasons you may be able to go just about anywhere you like.  In winter you will probably want to avoid mountains and other snowy areas unless you are deliberately seeking winter activities such as skiing, sledding, snowmobiling, or ice fishing.  Otherwise, winter driving and winter weather aren't usually very appealing to most people or conducive to pleasant camping and most RVs aren't equipped to handle freezing temperatures.

Historical, geographic, and entertainment venues may be things to consider in choosing  a destination.  Having a definite activity in mind is a particularly good idea for new campers who may not quite have figured out how much fun just camping can be all by itself.  State and National Parks are often associated with unique events in history or special geological features that make for interesting outings.

First Timers/Novices: if you are new to RVing or camping you probably want to "practice" your outdoor skills before embarking on any major expeditions. Pick a Federal, state, county, or private campground near home, focusing on one that has features that appeal to you and your family. In many locales you can find forest campgrounds and campgrounds near beaches, rivers, and lakes. Sometimes campgrounds are near golf courses, amusement parks, biking trails, and even factory outlet centers. Many historic sites have campgrounds nearby. So whether you are seeking refuge from civilization or are interested in getting bargains on the latest fashions, you can probably find a destination that will meet your needs. I would not recommend boondocking to newcomers until you are completely comfortable with your equipment and your camping skills. Being in a developed campground with access to hookups and other facilities if you need them, is a nice buffer for the newbie.  Having a knowledgeable camp host or helpful fellow campers can be a good resource for novices.

You may also find it helpful, comforting, and fun if you plan your first few trips with some experienced fellow campers. Their knowledge of RV, OHV, camping concepts, and of the areas you visit will greatly enhance your experience. I suggest having an experienced guide is especially important for your first few OHV outings, someone who knows where to camp and can choose trails appropriate for you and other novice members of  your group. And you'll have someone along to bail you out if you find yourself in seriously unfamiliar territory -- figuratively or literally.  While there are off road trail maps available, off road routes are not always clearly marked and it is easy for a newcomer to become disoriented.

Back yard camping. A good way to practice your RV skills is to camp in your own back yard -- or driveway. Do some dry runs at home before you venture out. Cook and serve a few meals in your RV. Spend a couple of nights sleeping in it. Get used to using the shower and toilet. Find out how well the refrigerator, water heater, furnace, generator, and air conditioners work. By practicing at home, it won't matter if you make a few mistakes. In fact, each one you make will probably save you making it out on a trip where the ramification are more serious. Back yard camping is a very inexpensive way of getting used to the benefits -- and limitations -- of your tent or RV and honing your camping and RV skills.

Commercial campgrounds offer the ultimate in creature comforts and availability of services. Commercial or private campgrounds are a good second step for new RVers. Owner/operators are usually knowledgeable about RVs as well as about local attractions and activities. Most commercial campgrounds include a small store that features basic provisions and RV supplies so you won't have to go far if you've forgotten something and, if nothing else, the staff should be able to direct you to the nearest stores if they don't have what you need. If you encounter any mechanical problems with your vehicle or problems with your RV systems, there are usually mobile repair services that can come to the campground for emergency repairs or you may be near enough to a repair facility that towing won't be TOO expensive.  Many commercial campgrounds include resort facilities like swimming pools, spas, and laundry facilities.  Some even have tennis courts and golf and other popular activities.

Forest campgrounds offer an escape from civilization and a "back to nature" feeling. Sometimes there are nature hikes and trails available, sometimes fishing or boating activities. Some offer ranger-led or self-guided tours. Be sure to ask the ranger when you check in about such options. Forest campgrounds, whether operated by Federal, state, or county agencies, typically provide level, paved or gravel parking spaces, picnic tables, and fire pits. Some have dump stations and water. Most have pit toilets and some have full toilet facilities. Few have full hookups, so plan on taking advantage of some if not all of the self-contained features of your RV. Plan on bringing back packs or fanny packs and canteens or Camelbak hydration packs for day-hikes.

Beach campgrounds may be government or privately operated and will have service levels typical of the company or agency that operates them. Some may have "primitive" sites where you are parking very near the beach with no hookups. They may or may not have restrooms. If you like the sound of the surf, a beach campground might be for you. But if you find proximity to the ocean less more stressful than relaxing, you may want to go someplace else for your inaugural runs. There is a primitive campground north of Ventura, California called "Emma Woods State Beach". It is right along the beach. My family has spent many enjoyable weekends there, basking on the beach, body surfing, and being lulled to sleep by the surf. On one trip we found the ocean rather unruly, with waves splashing significant spray over our RV as we waited in line at the gate.  Listening to the waves crashing on the nearby shore that night was not the most restful. Be sure to check the weather where ever you go so you are prepared with proper clothing and activities if the weather inhibits your original plans.

Desert camping. As you gain skills and confidence, you may want to explore desert camping options, especially if you ride OHVs. There are many fine OHV riding areas in the desert. Desert nights also provide an incredible view of the stars so brush up on your astronomy!   Unless you manage to find a commercial campground near where you want to go, you will most likely be boondocking -- no level paved or even graveled spaces, no hookups, no picnic tables. You may find rustic fire pits created by previous visitors. Try to use existing fire pits instead of creating new ones  if you can. First of all, it is a LOT easier and it is more environmentally friendly. Once again, it is highly recommended that you make your initial desert adventures in the company of experienced fellow campers. You will find having knowledgeable riders to guide you on initial OHV trips a lot of fun and a whole lot better than finding yourself in unfamiliar and difficult terrain or getting lost. As you gain experience you will soon become one of the "experts". I was quite surprised when on a dirt bike ride in the Mojave Desert I found that I was the most experienced rider in the group. I had been the novice or newbie for so long that I hadn't expected it, but as I fielded questions from another group we met on the trail I began to realize that all of the other riders with me had joined the Desert Rats more recently and I was the defacto patriarch.

Desert camping and riding require certain precautions. Deserts are home to poisonous snakes and insects so you'll want to keep an eye out for them and dress appropriately. Flip-flops are usually fine at the beach (if  you're OK with the stripes they'll leave when the rest of your  foot tans), but offer zero protection against rattle snakes and scorpions! Your OHV riding boots, on the other hand, provide pretty good protection against both -- just don't willingly step on or near a rattler!  They just might bite through or above your boots!  I read of one rider who kept getting new bites every time he put on  his boots.  The snake's fangs had broken off in the tough leather and were forced into his flesh again and again when he tightened up his boots.  And don't leave your boots outside at night!  Some venomous creatures might take up temporary residence in them over night.  Some rattlers can and will bite clear through heavy leather boots. Avoid stepping over or reaching under stones and logs or walking through thick brush where venomous snakes or insects may be hiding. They WILL be angered and threatened by the unwelcome intrusion and defend themselves vigorously. Contrary to popular belief, rattlesnake bites are not an automatic death sentence, but they are dangerous and require immediate medical help. The most recent first aid for snake bites discourages the old technique of cutting an "X" through the bite and sucking out the poison. The human mouth houses lots of bacteria and you may introduce an infection that does more damage than the snake venom. Keep the victim as inactive as you can and transport them to an emergency medical facility as quickly as possible.  If possible keep the wound below the heart to minimize flow of the venom away from the wound.   If possible, bring the snake (or its carcass) along for identification.  If that isn't possible, a digital photo would be good.  In all cases, pay close attention to the snake and be prepared to give a good description to medical providers.  Size, shape of the head, coloring, and patterns on the skin are all significant to identifying the snake and providing appropriate treatment.

Medical preparations. No matter what destination you choose, it is a good idea to identify local emergency medical facilities near your camp and en route before you leave home. Should a medical emergency (illness or injury) occur during your outing, you will want to be able to focus on getting treatment as soon as possible and not waste time searching for an appropriate facility. Knowing where to go for help will speed treatment and minimize pain, suffering, and the possibility of collateral damage.  Find out the best emergency phone number to use.  In one of our favorite dirt biking areas in southern California we learned that calling 911 would go to a Highway Patrol dispatch center hundreds of miles away.  The local California City Police Department posted their number on signs through the camping areas near the City and calling them meant emergency services were only minutes away.  If you or any member of your family or traveling companions have any special medical needs, make sure you bring appropriate prescription medications and necessary equipment and have identified qualified facilities where you can obtain appropriate treatment, if necessary, along the way and near your destination. Also, check your first aid kit prior to each and every trip. Replace outdated medications and supplies. If anyone in your party is allergic to bee stings, contact your physician to get a prescription for an "epi-pen" for immediate treatment if they get stung. In severe allergy cases, bee stings can be life-threatening if not treated quickly.

Happy trails to you!