Wecome To RVs and OHVs

This blog is all about RVs (recreational vehicles) and OHVs (Off Highway Vehicles), camping, sailing, and survival
and how they work together to provide wholesome family fun and great learning opportunities.
Many posts are intended to familiarize novice campers and RVers with RV systems and basic camping and survival
skills. But even experienced RVers and campers will enjoy the anecdotes and may even benefit from a new
perspective. Comments, questions, and suggestions are encouraged. The organization is pretty much by date of publication because of how blogspot works. Please use the SEARCH option below to find what you are looking for.

Wednesday, February 5, 2014

RV Extended Service Plans

The Good Sam Club offers RV Extended Service Plans that are essentially repair insurance.  They are NOT extended warranties, but are a unique insurance plan to pay for covered repairs.  They are available for just about any kind of RV but there are age, mileage, and purchase price restrictions.  For more details see Good Sam ESP qualifications.

An Extended Service Plan could be of great value if your RV breaks down and you're far from home.  Major repairs can be very expensive.  We paid over $16,000 to have a rebuilt engine installed in our Class A Motorhome and I've seen transmission repairs on some rigs that cost about as much.  The premiums for these plans may seem kind of expensive, but considering the huge benefits they deliver, including peace of mind, they are probably well worth it if your rig qualifies and you can afford the premiums.  It is very likely that even one covered claim will recoup just about all of your premiums.

Keep in mind that insurance companies make money because their average payout is about half the average premiums they collect so statistically, you probably won't ever use an extended warranty or extended service plan.  But, just like medical insurance, its really nice to have when you need it!

Dealers often offer extended service plans with the purchase of one of their units.   The premiums and coverage of these plans can vary widely, so know what you're buying. Pay special attention to the specific coverage and the requirements for submitting a claim.  Many times you must have the work pre-approved or your claim will be denied.  Look carefully at ALL the restrictions.  Many policies exclude parts costing less than say $15 and you could be stuck with hundreds of dollars in labor if the failed part is below the minimum, even if the subsequent damage amounts to thousands of dollars.  Given the high cost of many kinds of RV repairs, an extended service plan might be worth its costs.  I generally don't buy extended warranty coverage on anything unless it is really inexpensive.  I've found that too often I don't use it so its wasted money.  Only YOU can determine if it a plan is right for you.  

What can you do if your rig doesn't qualify?  Well, other than upgrading to a newer model that does qualify, about all you can do is be meticulous about performing regular maintenance and keeping your rig in good shape.  Regularly inspecting your rig can help you detect issues that could lead to expensive repairs before they get to that stage.  For example, engine failures are often caused by loss of oil. If you detect signs of an oil leak, get it fixed right away before it leads to engine failure.  Same with coolant.  Proper chassis and wheel bearing lubrication will prolong chassis life.  Automatic transmissions all too often tend to fall in the category of "out of sight, out of mind".  Check the fluid level and condition regularly.  The fluid should be dark red.  If it is brown or black or smells burned, the transmission has been overheating and needs attention.  Transmissions have internal filters that are not typically able to be changed by vehicle owners, but they still need to be maintained at designated intervals to protect the transmission.  It may be worth while to have a transmission temperature gauge installed so you can detect a pending failure before it becomes catastrophic.  Loss of coolant is another frequent cause of problems.  Often it may as simple as a radiator or heater hose clamp that needs tightening or a hose that needs to be replaced.  Leaking coolant will usually give off a distinctive odor, even if you don't see steam coming out of the engine compartment or green puddles under the rig when you stop.  By the way, not all antifreeze is green these days, although most of it still is.  Special high-mileage antifreeze might be orange and some of the supposedly environmentally safer stuff used in OHVs is blue.

Many drivers (and passengers) enjoy listening to the radio or other audio devices while on the road.  I have always preferred to listen to my vehicle so I can detect changes in how it sounds, hopefully before any serious damage can occur.  My dad was an auto mechanic and over the years I've learned to recognize a number of typical problems.  Valve clatter is often an early sign of serious loss of engine oil.   This is a fairly high-pitched rapid tapping sound in the engine that varies according to RPM.  Wheel bearings and universal joints make a distinct and usually constant whirring or whining sound.  Worn differentials sing their own sad songs:  a worn front pinion bearing will whine or growl when coasting, the rear will complain under load.  Being able to hear and recognize changes in the sounds your vehicle makes can help you detect problems and correct them before they lead to catastrophic failure.  I once tried to ignore the tell-tale sound of a bad universal joint during a 2000+ mile trip, hoping to limp my 35' Class A back home where I could make repairs.  I didn't make it.  The joint failed about 150 miles from home and the front most of three drive shaft segments dropped onto the freeway.  I had to replace the entire drive shaft segment to get the rig back on the road.  I was very lucky it didn't catch in something on the road and punch a hole in the floor or send my RV pole-vaulting!  Had I stopped to take care of the bad U-joint when I first heard it, I would only have had to replace the U-joint itself.  The entire segment of the drive shaft had to be replaced.  While you're at it, attune yourself to how your vehicle feels.  Be alert for unusual vibrations or strange "clunks" that may indicate drive train or suspension problems. Strange clunks are not always significant mechanical problems.  I read of a motorhome owner who spent tons of money on a "shotgun approach"  doing many random repairs to fixing an annoying clunk.  He finally decided to get rid of the vehicle and, while cleaning it out, discovered a full soda can under the driver's seat that turned out to be the cause of all the clunking.  Having invested so much in unnecessary repairs, he decided to keep the rig and get back some of his investment.  A loose piece of exterior trim once drove me crazy.  I thought the brakes or suspension was coming loose until I found the offending item.  Simply trimming off the loose end solved the problem before it did any serious damage to the finish.

Keep 'em running!

No comments:

Post a Comment