Wecome To RVs and OHVs

This blog is all about RVs (recreational vehicles) and OHVs (Off Highway Vehicles), camping, sailing, and survival
and how they work together to provide wholesome family fun and great learning opportunities.
Many posts are intended to familiarize novice campers and RVers with RV systems and basic camping and survival
skills. But even experienced RVers and campers will enjoy the anecdotes and may even benefit from a new
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Saturday, August 4, 2012

Power Washing RVs and OHVs

Power washing is a convenient way to remove the mud and crud that accumulates on your RV and OHVs, especially during rainy weather.  Power washers come in various strengths.  My home unit is a 1300 psi electric powered unit and is usually adequate for my needs.  For daily washing of ATVs and other rentals we used gasoline powered units ranging from 2400 psi to 3000 psi.   The higher powered units are essential to quickly remove inches of mud from our rentals to prepare them for inspection and for the next customer.   Small electric pressure washers can be found for about $80-$150.   High pressure gasoline powered units will typically run $300-$600.  And, just because it is a brand name, doesn't necessarily mean it is commercial quality.  Many of the units sold by home centers are only rated for light duty, with the expectation that they will be normally purchased by home owners and used sparingly.  When I was working for a resort we made the mistake of buying one of these and it didn't last out the first season of daily use!

Owner's manuals for many OHVs discourage or prohibit the use of power washers, citing problems with damaging electrical components or penetrating seals.   Take care if you choose to ignore your manufacturer's warning and use a power washer.  It can be a real boon in removing mud from under fenders,wheels, and in the under carriage but avoid directing the stream directly at electrical components and connections and at lubricated parts such as axles and swing arms.  Pressure washers can force water past the seals and cause rust and corrosion.

Anytime you are using a power washer, be careful of where you aim the nozzle. A 3000 psi stream can cut flesh and even my 1300 psi unit can create an unpleasant sting and leave a mark. There are some parts of your vehicle that you will want to avoid or at least minimize spraying with a power washer.   Electrical parts and connections and suspension parts and anything equipped with a grease fitting can be damaged by high pressure water intrusion.   Pressure washers can force water past the seals and into areas that should only contain grease.  When that happens, it can cause rust and corrosion that can damage moving parts and result in excessive wear and premature failure.  If you pressure wash your vehicle frequently, seriously consider accelerating your lubrication schedule.  I'd do it at least twice as often as required by the maintenance schedule, more often if you see water being squeezed out of components when you grease them.  Clearance lights on RVs are suspcetible to penetration by power washer and the water intrusion may corrode electrical connections.  Avoid direct or sustained contact on or near clearance lights.

Decals are another area that are susceptible to damage from a pressure washer.  Try to avoid aiming the full strength of the stream at the edge of any decal unless you WANT to peel it off!

Make it easier.  Using appropriate surface treatments can make cleaning easier.  I like to use SC-1 brand detailing spray on my dirt bikes . It makes them look like new and the residual film helps keep dirt and grime from sticking in the first place.   Because SC-1 is kind of expensive, I use a Mop and Glow type product on the under side of the fenders and skid plate.  It helps give a clean bike some extra shine and crud doesn't stick to it as well as it would to the raw plastic.   I was pleased to recently find a generic mop and shine product at my local Dollar store, making it even more economical for regular use.

Power washers usually include a device to siphon detergent to aid in cleaning stubborn stains, but even just using clear water is amazingly effective.  If you do use detergent, be sure to turn it off or remove it before rinsing to make sure you don't leave a detergent residue on your equipment.

Power washing your RV will mostly focus on the body and tires so you don't usually have the suspension or electornic concerns you may have on your OHV.  Don't direct the spray into any seams in the body panels or joints where accessories (like windows, vents and lights) are attached.  Power washers are really good for cleaning wheels and tires -- and the mud that accumulates in the wheel well.  IF you do power wash your undercarriage and suspension, exercise the same caution described above for OHVs.

Power washing is often a good prelude to planned maintenance.  Working on a clean vehicle is more pleasant and productive than constantly fighting the build up of grease, grime, dirt, and mud. Fasteners are easier to locate and to remove if they're clean.  And when it comes time to put things back together, clean parts fit better than dirty ones.  However, inspect the unit for signs of leaks BEFORE you wash it and make notes as power washing may clean away any evidence.

Portable power washer?  It is unlikely you'll have a faucet to supply a power washer in your favorite OHV staging area.  If you did you could use a gas powered power washer or, if you have a generator a smaller electric power washer to clean off your toys after a ride -- if you could spare the space and the weight to transport the equipment.  I picked up an old pressurize water fire extinguisher that I use as a small power washer for quick cleanups in camp.  It doesn't have any where near the pressure of a real power washer but it can be pumped up to deliver a pretty good stream for cleaning mud off my dirt bike if do it before the mud dries.  Of course the fire extinguisher is also good for an Class A (normal combustibles) fire too.

Power washing may be an aid to cleaning particularly dirty riding or work clothes before you put them in the washer.  You may also be able to use one to carefully clean a badly soiled tent, but go easy.  You don't want to wash away the waterproofing and some power washers may be powerful enough to rip seams or even tear the tent fabric!   I would try using an ordinary garden hose first. Plastic riding gear, like chest protectors, can probably be safely power washed.   If you need to power wash your helmet, protect the inside from direct spray and from getting wet, perhaps by stuffing it with a big bath towel before you wash it.   You don't want to saturate the padding!   Muddy riding boots might benefit from careful power washing. Take care not to get water inside and avoid direct spraying of seams.  Your nylon enduro jacket and riding pants (even jeans) will probably stand up to power washing if needed, just don't get any more aggressive than necessary to remove the mud and grime.  And try not to make it a regular practice.  By the way, even running clothes through the washer wears them out faster.  I had a friend who doubled the lifetime of his shirts by wearing them for two days before washing them instead of washing them every day.  But that doesn't translate into further extending the life by not washing them at all.  Dirt and grit in clothing will grind down and weaken fibers if it isn't removed regularly.

Power up!

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