Take a Hike

Take a hike is a term often used to express disdain for someone or their suggestions.  But it can also be good advice.  Hiking is a pretty safe and healthy form of recreation and it fits well with the RVing and camping lifestyle.

In most places we go camping there are many hiking trails readily available, ranging from simple, almost flat paved trails in urban areas to extremely steep, rocky, difficult trails for the more adventurous.  There are trails in or around many Forest Service campgrounds.  Some are interpretive nature trails with either self guided or ranger led tours.  Some trails are available for multiple uses:  hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, even OHV riding.  When  using a multi-use trail, give appropriate consideration to other users and recognize they have as much right to be there as you do, even if they choose a different mode of movement.  Be prepared to yield the right of way according to appropriate needs.  Sudden movements and loud noises may spook horses so exercise extra care when you encounter equestrian groups on  your favorite trails.  Although you may disapprove of mechanical devices (mountain bikes, dirt bikes, ATVs, etc) there are times hikers should yield.  In many places it is a lot easier and safer to step aside than to maneuver a machine out of the way and back onto the trail -- and it is less likely to do any environmental damage.  Do some research about any trail you choose before you begin.  Know the difficulty and any special risks (weather, animals, water crossings, avalanche, fire danger, etc).  Be sure to check in with the local ranger station and let them know when you are starting out on the trail and when you expect to return so they will know where and when to begin search and rescue operations if  you fail to return at the expected time.  Check the weather report so you can avoid going places that are likely to flood during rain or face avalanche danger if it snows. 

Be sure to bring plenty of water.  Even moderate hiking is fairly strenuous exercise and even on cool days you can work up quite a sweat.  You'll need to replenish your water and your electrolytes to maintain strength and alertness needed for your excursion.  Some trails have natural sources of water available along the way.  Even very clear, clean, pure-looking water can be contaminated so be careful.  Check with the local ranger to find out which water sources are safe.  In most cases the most common affect of bad water is simply a case of diarrhea, which can quickly seriously dampen your spirits  (and other things) but water around old mining or manufacturing sites may be contaminated with dangerous chemicals, such the deadly cyanide used in gold refining.  Even when taking water from "approved" sources, be sure to check up stream for contamination from animal carcasses and feces.  Look as far up stream as you  see and if the view is blocked, it is well worth taking a few minutes to move far enough to be sure the water doesn't contain anything unhealthy before you drink or fill your canteen.  Even washing  your hands and face in contaminated water can expose you to biological and chemical agents that could make you sick.

Like any other outdoor activity, you need to be properly prepared.  First, make sure you have no health problems or  physical limitations that will be a problem during your hike.  Pre-hydrate your body by drinking plenty of water and/or sports drinks starting the day before your hike.  Choose proper clothing according to weather conditions.  Even on warm days it is a good idea to tuck in a light weight nylon jacket or a plastic poncho in case of rain.  Even if rain isn't the the regional forecast, many mountain areas create their own local weather.  And it could get cold at night if for any reason on don't get back on time.  Be sure you are wearing proper footwear.  Comfortable running shoes are favorite among many hikers for easy trails but for more difficult terrain and for added safety anytime, wear good hiking boots.  They will protect you from stubbing your toes on rocks and logs and will help guard against sprained ankles and provide extra protection against snake and insect bites.  Always take time to break in new shoes or boots before you go hiking in them.  Choose a good sock system to ensure your feet are properly cushioned and protected from blisters.  Yes, I said "sock system".   Proper socks for hiking and some other intensive physical activities often require multiple layers to meet all the needs for proper protection and comfort.  Socks should be heavy enough to cushion your feet without overheating and should be made of a fabric that will  wick away perspiration.  Many times it is useful to wear a thin pair of socks under your heavier hiking socks to help prevent blisters.  Usually the thin socks will stick to your feet and slide against the thicker socks instead of having socks rub directly on your skin. If you do get blisters, a product called "moleskin" is a good first aid treatment to cover and protect blisters.  If you are prone to blister and know where, you might apply some moleskin to the affected areas before you start out to prevent blisters.  Many hikers like to use a hiking stick.  It is a good way to help stabilize yourself on the the trail and often eases the burden on your legs, feet and back, making it more comfortable.  I have a collapsible aluminum Coleman hiking stick that takes up little room or weight in my pack when not in use and yet provides a lot of comfort on the trail.  In a pinch it could be used to help splint a broken arm or leg.  In the unlikely event that you are attacked by a wild animal, it might even serve as a defensive weapon.

First aid, having a proper first aid kit and knowing how to use it, can mean the difference between a minor injury causing a little discomfort and a more serious situation that ruins your hike.   Blisters, insect bites, and small scrapes and scratches are likely to happen along the way.  Each person should carry at least a small pocket first aid kit with bandaids, moleskin, and antiseptic cream.  For larger groups, someone should bring along a more comprehensive first aid kit with sterile dressings, gauze, adhesive tape, and some pain medication.  Everyone should have basic first aid training and advanced first aid skills are strongly recommended for at least one person in larger groups and when hiking difficult or dangerous trails.

There was a time when navigation depended on topographical maps and a good compass.  While these are still effective, inexpensive, and even fun to use, modern GPS devices provide easier and more accurate ways to know keep track of where you are and where you're going.  You can also get "beacons" that transmit your location and status to be delivered to one or more designated recipients when the panic button is placed.  Some are even capable of detecting unusual conditions, such as a fall or prolonged inactivity resulting from an injury or illness.  Some can be programmed to deliver regular status reports to chosen locations to friend and family at home know where you are and that you are OK.  In that case, a missed report might signal a problem that would trigger a search and rescue operation to assist you.

Modern electronic communication devices give us lots of ways to call or help or just keep in touch when on the trail.  It is sometimes surprising to find cell phone coverage in some relatively remote areas.  If  you have the budget for it, a satellite phone will work almost anywhere, but beware, they are VERY expensive!  CB and Ham radios generally required line-of-sight between stations but even that might be sufficient in some situations.  Citizen Band walkie talkies are a good way to maintain communications between members of a common organized expedition.  You can even get hands free,  helmet mounted versions for use on OHVs, mountain biking, and horseback riding.

Never hike alone is a good rule to follow.  Even a simple injury like a twisted ankle may require some assistance and having help in more serious situations could literally mean the difference between life and death.  In 2003, experienced solo mountaineer Aaron Raltson was trapped for days in a remote slot canyon in southern Utah when an 800 lb boulder came loose and trapped his arm against the canyon wall.  After several days and having long since exhausted the two burritos and a quart of water in his backpack, in desperation he broke the bone in his own arm, then cut through dead flesh with dull multi tool to free himself from his predicament. You can read details of his story here.  Aaron was a very experienced mountaineer, having scaled 59 Colorado peaks over 14,000, 45 of them solo.  If YOU choose to do some solo hiking, be careful and be sure to leave details of your planned trip with family, local rangers, or law enforcement so they can send help if something happens and you can't get back.  A simple hike on a popular, familiar, and frequently used hiking trail probably will probably be pretty safe for just about anyone.  However, as Aaron's story illustrates, even the best qualified hikers can get in serious trouble in difficult and/or remote locations.

One of the good things about hiking is you can choose the level of difficulty and effort.  That means you can start out easy and work your way up to more challenging routes and you can tailor each hike to your  current physical, mental, and emotional condition.  You can also customize hikes to accommodate the skills and strength of any other hikers in your group.

Take a hike!

Getting the Most Out of Your RV

RVs often represent a significant investment.  Even a small tent trailer can run you around $5000 or so new.   Unfortunately, many people only use them for occasional camping trips (average about 12 trips a year according to some reports) so they spend a lot of time sitting unused.  That makes pre-owned (used) RVs especially good values for subsequent purchasers, but wouldn't it make sense to get as much  use out of your investment as possible?  With a little creativity you may find many ways to use your RV.

Our primary use for our motorhomes has been to support our dirt bike outings.  With a family of 6 kids (4 boys and 2 girls with a 14 year difference in age between the oldest and youngest) it served as our base camp for our OHV rides.  We spent just about every 3-day holiday weekend on one of these trips when the kids were growing up.  These days I'm afraid our motorhome doesn't get nearly the use we would like to it.  At one time making a living got in the way of living.  Now that we are retired and on a fixed income, NOT making a living gets in the way of living.  Can't seem to win either way!

A second major use was summer vacations to visit the kids' grandparents in another state.  Even though motorhomes don't get great mileage, the savings in motel and restaurant costs plus the added convenience during travel and at our destination, more than offsets the fuel costs.  When you measure the fuel in "passenger miles per gallon" like is often used for mass transit, transporting a family of 8 in a motorhome delivers a respectable 56 passenger miles per gallon!  That sounds a whole lot better than the raw fuel economy of 7 miles per gallon.  Even with just two people, that's 14 passenger miles per gallon.  When you factor in the savings for meals and motels, motorhome travel really comes out ahead!

With six active children, we often had several soccer games to attend each weekend.  We soon discovered our motorhome was perfect for transporting our small army and all their gear and provided us with a  shelter and other useful facilities for resting, eating, and cleaning up between games or escaping unpleasant weather.  Our on board first aid kit let us lend help dealing with many small injuries among their teammates as well as our own kids.  Some of the soccer fields were located at schools that were locked on weekends so having our own sanitary facilities was also a boon.

On one occasion the limousine our kids ordered for a school dance failed to show up and we transported about half dozen kids to the dance in our motorhome.  It was definitely an unusual mode of transportation for such an event, but it provided at least as much room for the kids as the limo would have and even better facilities for the more than 1 hour drive downtown to the venue for their dance.  It also created some one-of-a-kind memories for everyone involved and we still get comments from our kids friends decades later.

Disaster Recovery Vehicle (DRV).  I have touted the value in using your RV as a DRV in several places in this blog.   We have used our DRV on more than one occasion.  Having a well-stocked RV available during any kind of interruption of normal household services makes dealing with them a lot more convenient and can even literally be life-saving.  Your RV can give a you a safe and comfortable place to stay should your home be damaged or if you should experience an extended power outage.  If properly setup you are prepared to weather just about anything.  That means having sufficient fuel in the tanks, proper clothing, food, and medical supplies.  Your RV will provide shelter plus cooking and sanitation facilities and can serve as a temporary ER for you and your family and friends when access to normal medical services are restricted or non-existent.

A motorhome or other RV makes an excellent guest house for visitors.  You can keep your visiting relatives close by but still give them (and you) a lot of privacy by setting them up in your RV.  You may have to make special arrangements during winter months when you RV is winterized.

Another popular use for motorhomes is tailgate parties at sporting events.  Be sure to check with the venue to make sure they will admit rigs the size of your and will allow tailgate parties before you show up and get turned away.  RVs provide perfect facilities for your pre-game and post-game festivities.

Shopping trips?  You probably wouldn't think of taking your motorhome on a shopping trip.  Too many issues with traffic snarls and limited parking.  But sometimes it might be just right.  Not only does it have lots of space to put your purchases, it can provide you a comfortable place to recuperate between stores -- get a snack, catch a few Z's, freshen up.  It may be especially well-suited for trip so remote factory outlet centers.  Sometimes they cater to RVers, setting aside special parking for large rigs.  It is always a good idea to scout out the destinations beforehand to make sure there will be appropriate space for  your rig.

New Years Eve celebrations.   I read of an enterprising owner who used  his motorhome to transport his wife and some friends to New Years Eve outing at a nightclub about 90 minutes from their home.  Knowing it would be a late night and drinking would be involved, he obtained permission to park on a vacant lot near the club so they had a safe and comfortable place within walking distance when the night's festivities ended and they were sometimes in no condition to drive home.

Taking a group out.  Whenever you have more people than will fit in your family car or minivan, you might consider using your RV.  However, not all the seating in an RV is rated for occupancy on the highway.  Any approved seating should be equipped with seat belts.   Passengers in other locations might present a safety hazard and, in case of an accident, you may face liability issues.  You may also be subject to getting a citation and paying a fine if a law enforcement officer happens to notice your excess passengers for any reason.

A night out at home?   Why not?  You can eat dinner and spend the night in your RV right in your own driveway or backyard.  Makes a kind of unique date night and if you still have kids at home may provide you more privacy than you usually get in the house.  We once celebrated our wedding anniversary in our cab-over camper -- picked up a wonderful steak dinner at our favorite restaurant and enjoyed a delightfully intimate candle light  dinner and pleasant evening in the camper.

Another option is to rent out your RV.   You might be able to do it yourself but many people use professional rental agencies to handle renting their RVs.  That is one way to help offset the cost of ownership.  One such operation is outdoorsy.com.  You can usually still reserve it for your own use whenever you want, but might actually turn it into a positive revenue stream when you are not using it.  Sure beats just having it sit there and depreciate!  There are, of course, some risks associated with renting it out and some inconveniences.  You won't want to keep your personal belongings in it when renting it out and renters might do some unexpected damage and you should count on additional wear and tear.  You will have to keep up with all scheduled maintenance and be prepared to make repairs as necessary to keep your RV in rentable and presentable condition.  Popular, late model RVs are the best candidates for rentals but you might find a market for reasonably priced vintage units too especially if they are unique or particularly appealing.

Think outside the box.   You'll probably come up with even more fun, interesting, and innovative ways to use your RV.

Be creative!
 

Care and Repair of Overhead RV Cabinets

Most RVs have many overhead cabinets.  This is both a blessing and a curse.  Having plenty of storage is a wonderful thing.  However, I've seen overhead cabinets in several RVs pull loose due to age and/or overloading.  Sometimes water intrusion into the ceiling and/or wall will have promoted dry rot that weakens the mounting points, but often they were just weakly mounted in the first place.  Storing potato chips and napkins isn't likely to cause any problems, but avoid heavy items like canned goods, spare batteries and tools.  Even though individual items may not be especially heavy, the cumulative weight may exceed the intended design.  I've seen cabinets that looked like there were only screwed into the 3/16" plywood wall paneling with no attempt find studs in the wall for better support and additional strength.   Installations such as this are lucky if they are strong enough to support empty cabinets!

As always, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.  Re-attaching loose cabinets is NOT an easy or fun job so you will want to avoid it if at all possible.  Begin by only putting light items in overhead cabinets.  Then monitor the cabinets so you can tell if they are starting to come loose so you can deal with it before they fall off.  Even light weight items will add up if there are a lot of them.  Keeping weight low will help maintain a stable center of gravity in  your RV too.

If you have an overhead cabinet that is coming loose, the first thing to do is to empty it out to minimize the damage and gain access to repair it.  Once is is empty you may be able to push it back into place and re-anchor it to the wall.  Sometimes the cabinets are secured via screws inside the lower shelf.  To get to them use a screw driver or putty knife to lift the edge of the paneling on the top of the bottom shelf until you can remove it completely.  That will expose the framework inside the shelf, including the back piece through the cabinet is screwed to the wall.  If the cabinet has pulled completely away from the wall and the screws have pulled through you'll need to back out the old screws to be able to get it back in place.  Screwing the old screws back into the stripped holes is probably a waste of time.  If they were originally screwed into studs you may be able to repair the hole by inserting wooden repair plugs before re-installing the screws.  If the screws only went into the plywood, you'll need to relocate the screws to a sturdier location.  Try to find studs to screw into.  If you can't find any studs you might get some additional strength by using moly bolts.  You'll need to drill a big enough hole in the wall for the moly bolt, but tight enough so it will hold the sleeve so you can tighten the bolt.  The face plate on the sleeve usually has little prongs that dig into the surface to help keep it from turning so the sleeves need to be tapped into the holes.  The sleeve on moly bolts spreads open as you tighten the bolt, gripping the back side of the plywood and spreading out the load a little bit so they don't pull out as easily as ordinary screws.  If you have enough depth in the wall you might try Wingit brand fasteners.  They perform the same function but use a different design that spreads out behind the wall board.  They are very strong:  rated to hold 300 lbs each.  However,  you have to drill a 3/4" hole in the wall to install them.  And the 300# rating only applies if the wall they are attached to can also support that much weight.  Moly  bolts usually only need about a 3/8" hole.  Wingits usually come with 3 1/2" or 4" bolts.  Sometimes those are too long and might begin to penetrate the outer skin.  If that is the case you can buy shorter bolts, but be sure they're long enough to engage the nut in the end of the part of the Wingit that goes in the wall after they go through the cabinet.  .  If there is any question about having room to install larger fasteners like Wingits, consider trying smaller ones first.  Then, if you do have to move to bigger ones, you can always drill bigger holes.  But if you drill the bigger holes first, you can't repair them without replacing the entire section of paneling. With either Wingits or moly bolts, the strength of the installation is still dependent on the strength of the wall board they're mounted in so it is still a good idea to try to find some structural member behind the wallboard into which you can drive good screws if possible.  I like Grabber screws and they come in a variety of sizes.  Choose a length that will extend into the wall about 1 1/2".  Another possible fix is to secure a sturdy screw strip to the wall so it will be next to the top of the bottom shelf.  Make sure to anchor it into structural members so it will hold strongly.  Then you can screw up through the bottom of the cabinet to hold the cabinet in place.  Doing this will sacrifice a little bit of shelf space in the cabinet, but is a pretty darn good way of making sure the cabinet says in place.  You could install the screw strip under the shelf which would be even safer, but then it is visible all the time, unless it is behind a valance over a window.  If the top of the front of the cabinet has pulled away from the ceiling, you may need to do the same thing to reattach the top of the cabinet securely.  Wingits are not recommended for installations in ceilings and moly bolts probably have the same limitations so you may have to install a strip you can screw the top of the cabinet to.  If you have to install screws through the front of the cabinet where they will be visible you may want to purchase plastic screw covers to disguise them.  These consist of two pieces of plastic:  the base, which is usually a translucent white and a  snap-on over, which should be a color that closely matches the color of the cabinets.  Put the screw through the base so the head of the screw holds the base tightly against the cabinet when the screw is tightened in place.  Then snap  the cover on the base.

For particularly heavy cabinets or if you plan to put a heavy load in an overhead cabinet, you may want to explore ways to support it from below.  If it is over a counter, you may be able to install decorative wooden spindles between the counter and the bottom of the cabinet for a sturdy support.  For cabinets over furniture, you may be able to add a support against the wall all the way to the floor.  Depending on the design and strength of the ends of the cabinet you may need to add shelf supports under the cabinet and anchored to the wall support.  If you have to resort to this solution you can mitigate the appearance of the supports by covering them in fabric or wall paper or painting them to match or complement the wall color.

Good luck!

Hey! Its almost spring again!

 

 Offcially the first day of spring in the northern hemisphere is March 21.  That is also the spring equinox -- the day when the length of daylight and dark are the same.  From now until the summer solstice (June 21, the longest day of the year) the days will be getting longer by about a couple of minutes every day.

Spring time is an exciting time for those of us who enjoy RVing, camping, and off road activities. After several months of having our equipment in winter storage, most of us are at least beginning to feel the effects of cabin fever, itching to hit the roads and the trails.  Yes, I know, this isn't my first post on spring cleaning, but hey!  Spring comes every year and getting ready for another fun season of camping and riding is something we all need to do every year.

To make the most of a new season of camping and riding we need to make proper preparations.  If you live in a climate with freezing winter weather you will have to de-winterize your vehicle(s) and equipment.  If you are lucky enough to live in the sun belt you might have been able to avoid putting your stuff into storage for the winter, but it is still a good time to inspect all your equipment to make sure it is in good condition and ready for another season of fun.  Annual maintenance procedures are often specified in the owner's manual.  Lacking that, be sure to inspect tires and brakes, belts and hoses, batteries and electrical systems, and inspect and change fluids and filters as necessary.

RVs, OHVs, and water craft should be properly serviced and inspected for any damage that might have occurred over the winter.  If water systems in RVs have been winterized you will want to wait until you no longer expect freezing overnight temperatures before de-winterizing them.   Be sure to check the manufacturer's recommendations for regular maintenance.  Pay special attention to rubber items, like belts, tires, and hoses, as they are often adversely affected by winter temperature changes.  Check fluid levels and check and test batteries. Don't forget the batteries in flashlights, lanterns, smoke detectors, and remote controls.

Other camping equipment and riding gear should be gotten out and inspected.  Things should generally be OK if they were properly stored at the end of the last season but sometimes insect or rodents can infest stuff and do a lot of damage.  Make sure everything is clean and in good repair.

Go through your tool boxes, spare parts, RV galleys, and camp kits to confirm that all necessary items are there and are clean and in good repair.  Check to be sure cutting tools, such as knives, axes, hatchets, and saws are sharp and free from rust.  Make sure handles are secure and smooth.  See to it that wrench sets, screwdrivers, and socket sets have all their pieces in good condition.  Replace missing or damaged items.

Review all your on board medical supplies, toiletries, cleaning supplies, and non-persishable ingredients to make sure you have everything you might need and that all is serviceable.  Winter temperatures can have a dramatic affect on many products, especially those in liquid form.  Bulging or leaking canned goods can be a health hazard.  Discard and replace any suspect items.  If you happened to leave any soda cans in your RV or camp kit where they got frozen, you'll find a sticky mess where the cans have exploded and leaked.

Review your personal readiness to resume recreational activities.  Illness or injuries during the off season may have taken their toll on your physical and/or mental status.  If you've been somewhat lax in physical activity over the winter, it would be a good idea to begin a moderate exercise program to regain the strength and mobility you will need to be able to safely enjoy your summer fun.

Begin making plans for your first outing.  I recommend the first trip be to a familiar destination fairly close to home in case anything pops up that needs special attention.  Save the more adventurous outings for later in the season when both you and your equipment have both once again been proven up to the task.  It isn't unusual for it to take a trip or two before you get back into the swing of things and feel completely comfortable.

Spring ahead!

UTVs or Side-by-sides

UTV stands for Utililty Task (or Terrain) Vehicle.   As the name indicates, they were originally designed for utility work.  They are also known as side-by-sides because of the seating configuration.  The Kawaski Mule and the Yamha Rhino were two of the first.  They were small 4-wheel drive vehicles, equipped with bucket seats and a steering wheel so they drive like a car.  The original Mules and Rhinos looked a little like a Jeep or a small pickup truck.  Their potential for sport use was quickly recognized and soon there were models, such as the Razor, that looked more like a custom Baja racer than a utility vehicle.  Even Razors usually have a small cargo bed in the back.

They are designed for high performance off road use,  often having as much wheel travel as a dirt bike (13" or more of wheel travel) to absorb some pretty big bumps -- or jumps.  Driver and passenger are secured by seat belts or harnesses.   Seat belts are standard equipment:  3-point harness are the norm but for racing and other high impact activities a better 5-point harness is recommended.  They usually have roll bars and a small cargo bed at the rear.  Most if not all are equipped with 4-wheel drive, giving them a "go anywhere" capability, as long as the road or trail is wide enough for them.  There are many trails designed for dirt bikes and ATVs where UTVs are prohibited.  Attempting to travel these trails in a UTV is not only illegal and environmentally irresponsible, it is dangerous.  It can also be expensive.  If your UTV breaks down out on one of these illegal trails you may have to option to abandon it as towing services may not be able to reach you and eventually you could be liable for the cost of having it removed.  There are plenty of legal roads and trails you can enjoy.

Most UTVs carry 2-4 passengers, but some, like the Ranger, can carry up to 6 passengers.  That makes them popular for family outings, especially when you have children too young or other family members who don't ride.  And the cargo space means you have plenty of room to bring along a well-stocked picnic basket and cooler for lunch and other refreshments out on the trail.

There are optional accessories available to customize UTVs to an owner's individual needs and wants, including off road lights and elaborate sound systems.  You can even purchase body kits that fully enclose the passenger space and add a heater for winter riding.  Some might even have an option for air conditioning!  That would obviously make hot summer rides more comfortable but I would worry about how much power it would take and whether it would cause overheating of the engine.

I've seen a number of  UTVs equipped with snow plows for clearing winter driveways and small parking lots.  And, of course, they are capable of towing any off-road trailer.  The cargo area makes them useful for hauling a variety of things, ranging from a cooler full of your favorite summer beverages to firewood, medical supplies, and tools.

UTVs are usually too wide to be driven on regular ATV trails and definitely too big for single track dirt bike trails.  They are very much at home on fire roads and other dirt roads and the wide puffy kobby tires, together with 4-wheel drive, provide excellent traction in sand,  mud, and snow.  A few UTVs are deliberately built narrow enough to be used on ATV trails.

Like other 4 wheel vehicles, UTVs should not be driven across sleep slopes because of the risk of rollover.  That also limits manueverabilty when climbing hills.  If you get stuck about the only safe way to get down is to back down.  Attempting to make a U-turn on a steep slope can result in rollover.  If you have to back down, exercise extreme caution.  I've seen way too many UTVs (and ATVs for that matter) have the front end swing around unexpectedly when the driver attempted to back down a steep hill, often resulting in rollovers.

Because of their larger size and more complex design, they are more expensive than dirt bikes or ATVs, but being able to carry 4-6 people may make the "cost per passenger" a little less daunting.  Since they are usually designed with cargo carrying features they can be used to transport tools and supplies you couldn't carry on ATVs or dirt bikes.

In some cases UTVs might be modified to be street legal, but most are intended and purchased strictly for off road use.  Off road tires won't last long on pavement and can contribute to excessive tire wear and to dangerous  problems in handling.  This might be mitigated by changing the tires but in doing so you usually sacrifice some the off road capability for better on road manners.

UTVs are sometimes used as off road rescue vehicles.  They may be equipped to carry stretchers and I've even seen some designed for wildlands fire fighting.

UTVs may offer hard core off road enthusiasts a way to continue to enjoy their sport even after age, illness, or injury prevents them from straddling a dirt bike or ATV.  Riding in the cushy seats of a UTV for many hours is always going to be more comfortable than sitting in the saddle of dirt bike or ATV and the strain on the driver's arms from the steering wheel will be much less than that from  wrestling with handlebars.   The tires, suspension, and body weight absorb a lot of the jarring impact that is transmitted directly to the riders of dirt bikes and ATVs.

UTVs are smooth!

4x4s: 4 Wheel Drive Off Highway Vehicles

Not all 4 wheel drive vehicles are suitable for off road use.  In recent years there have been many luxury sedans equipped with 4 wheel drive or all wheel drive.  This gives them additional stability on wet, snowy, or icy roads but the suspension, gear train, and general body style are not amenable to off road use. A surprising number of big, lifted 4x4 pickups aren't really intended for off road use either.  They are often more for show than actual use.  Those big, shiny, showy trucks you see hogging extra spaces in a parking lot are not likely to ever be driven off pavement.  A REAL off-road pickup is the one with mud all over both sides and the paint rubbed off the front fenders from driving through the bushes!

The term "4x4" is usually used to describe a 4 wheel drive pickup or SUV.  One of the first 4x4s to gain popularity was the venerable Jeep.  Originally designed as a military vehicle, GIs returning from World War II were quick to adapt them for civilian use after learning to appreciate their amazing versatility in combat.  Jeeps are often the foundation for "rock crawlers", adapted for negotiating passage among large boulders.  The name "rock crawlers" usually applies to the recreational applications for these vehicles and their drivers.  However, a whole class of professional racing has grown up around rock crawling with extremely difficult courses that challenge both man and machine to the limits.  They are often referred to as "rock bouncers" and are specially built, high performance, 4 wheel drive vehicles.  For some exciting viewing, check out "rock bouncers" on Youtube.  I am sure you will be amazed!

4 Wheel drive pickups and SUVs are often modified to enhance their off road performance.   Typical modifications include lift kits and larger tires.  I've even seen some with onboard arc welders for emergency repairs on the trail.  Suspension enhancements are also a popular upgrade for both comfort and performance.  Typical upgrades include stronger (or additional) springs and bigger shock absorbers.  Seats and shoulder harnesses are often upgraded in competition machines.   I have seen a few really unusual 4x4 modifications, such as a Cadillac body mounted on a 4x4 truck frame.  Not quite sure what the prompted the builder but it was certainly surprising and interesting to see it racing through the open desert and I am sure it would be fun to drive.  I have to admit it certainly looked cool!

You will see a few vans with 4WD.   Having 4wd is a distinct advantage in any area where you get snow.  They make excellent vehicles to support winter sports such as skiing, snow boarding, snowmobiling, and ice fishing.  If you want an all terrain motorhome,  a Class B with 4wd would be a good option, if the compact accommodations are sufficient for your needs.  I have seen a few 4wd Class C motorhomes, which are, of course, based on van a chassis. There have also been a very few Class A motorhomes built with 4WD.   Revcon built both Class C and Class A 4WD motorhomes.  I heard that the owner of the now defunct Suncrest motorhome company had one built to stress test their Class A and it kept up with dune buggies in the open desert!  I once owned a 28' Suncrest similar to the one used for the 4x4 conversion and always thought it would be fun to have the 4x4 to support our dirt biking adventures, but theirs wasn't for sale and the converting mine would have been way too expensive.

4x4s are often associated with off road activities.  However, when you see a bright, shiny, 4x4 pickup with a lift kit so high you need a step ladder to climb into the cab, those are mostly for show, not real off road use.   If you want to see a REAL off road truck, look for one with a modest lift and lots of mud.  If the paint is worn off the front fenders you know it has been seeing a lot of genuine off road driving.

4 Wheel DRIVE ON!

Dune Buggies

 Dune Buggies are a class of OHVs all their own.  To some extent they have been replaced by UTVs in today's off road market.  At one time dune buggies were mostly home made units, often built on Volkswagen or Corvair based platforms.  These rear-mounted, air-cooled engine configurations lended themselves well to handling off-road driving. 

I recall two basic configurations:  rails and fiberglass bodied models.  Rails were little more than a simple frame with a drive train, front suspension and steering, and one or two bucket seats.  The fiberglass models were a bit heavier but they were very attractive and provided more protection for occupants.  They often had a rear bench seat for a total carrying capacity of 4 people.  You may remember seeing Steve McQueen drive one on the beach in The Thomas Crown Affair.  My wife and I actually had the chance to drive that very dune buggy in the Mojave Desert.  At that time the buggy belonged to a dirt biking buddy.  It was a lot of fun and was especially nice for taking small children into "town" for hamburgers.  And, yes, this particular dune buggy was street legal.  Most were not.

There were some commercially made dune buggies, including some large vehicles designed to carry multiple passengers on site-seeing excursions, giving non-riders a chance to experience dunes and deserts first hand.

 I once owned a Corvair powered dune buggie.  Unfortunately it wasn't running when I got it and I never go around to fixing it.  One major deterrent was that its trailer hadn't been licensed in several years when I acquired it and the State of California demanded I pay all the back registration fees of the previous owner plus penalties before I could get the trailer licensed in my name.  The fees greatly exceeded the cost of a new trailer so I ended up scrapping it.

If you want a dune buggy you might have to search ebay, craigslist, or your local classified ads.  There are few, if any, manufacturers still producing them new, but there are a few custom builders that will build one to your specifications. If  you don't want to wait to have a custom rig built, take a look at the current crop of Razor style UTVs.  They offer many of the same features and experiences as a dune buggy and usually have 4WD for even more capabilities.  They are, however, a bit pricey.

Enjoy a buggy ride!