RV Shows

A good way to check out different types of RVs is to visit an RV show. They are held all over the country so you should be able to find one near you. Usually there will be dozens or even hundreds of new and sometimes used RVs for sale at special "show prices". If you are in the market to immediately purchase an RV, you can sometimes save thousands of dollars over the normal retail price. I recently saw a brand new $15,000 travel trailer with a show price under $8,000 and a big Class A luxury motorhome with a $43,000 savings. But even if you aren't in the market to buy right now, an RV show is a good place to see just about every type of RV there is:  tent trailers, truck campers, tear-drop trailers, travel trailers, fifth-wheels, toy haulers, all classes of motorhomes, even tow vehicles. There will usually be a lot of vendors of RV supplies and gadgets there too. You can walk through and inspect various units and see which ones appeal to you and get a good idea of what features you may want when you are ready to purchase. Some RV shows even have free admission, although you can expect to pay up to $10/person for others. Even so, that is a lot cheaper than driving around to a dozen or so dealers to see the same selection of possibilities -- and without the high-pressure sales you may experience on dealer's lots. It is also a convenient way to compare styles and features since you can see them side by side and easily go back and forth to test your memory and compare your preferences. Besides that, it is kind of fun to see the new units. My first impression when I walked into one new Class A motorhome with 5 slideouts, was "This is bigger than my house!" It cost more too, even at its special "show price". The amenities available in even the most basic tent trailers these days is phenomenal. And big class A motorhomes and large travel trailers offer as many options as a new permanent home, including washers and dryers, dishwashers, residential sized refrigerators, and home theater systems along with more common features such as central, ducted forced air heating and air conditioning. You'll even find granite counter tops and ceramic tile floors, some with hydronic heating underneath.

RV and Campground Info. RV shows are usually a great source of information about RVing. State parks will often have people there to promote local camping options. Experienced RVers often offer seminars, including driving, cooking, and full-timing. Vendors showcase the newest and most popular options and gadgets, often at discounted "show prices". Plus, you have a concentration of people who are active in the RV life-style who are usually more than happy to answer any questions you have and share their personal experiences and expertise. RV manufacturers often have their own representatives on site in addition to the dealer's salesmen to answer questions about their products. RV clubs will frequently have booths at RV shows and are a wonderful source of information about the best places to go, where and when, the best gadgets to buy (and the ones to avoid!), and can put you in touch with other people in your area who may share the same interests you have.

RVs shows can be a fun way to spend some time. Seeing the new rigs and comparing features is interesting and entertaining and may better prepare you for future purchases. You are likely to enjoy talking with both vendors and other visitors and you may get a chance to share your favorite RV experience too.

RV gadgets are often show cased at RV shows so it is a good place to check out new things for your RV or camp kit.  You can sometimes get special introductory pricing on new innovations and "show" pricing on regular items from major suppliers like Camping World.  Even if you have to pay full retail for some things it might save you a trip to the store.  The selection will usually include many items that are currently most popular among RVers so its a good place to look for ideas to add to the functionality, fun, or convenience of your rig.  You'll often have a chance to see new gadgets demonstrated and sometimes be able to try them out yourselves.

 Many RV shows include seminars on various RV and camping topics ranging from cooking to maintenance to driving.   Sometimes seminars are included in the price of admission; sometimes each one has its own entry fee.  It is good place to gain access to a lot of useful expert advise.  Some free seminars are just that, a free service for attendees.  These are often provided by the show promoters or sponsored by clubs, retailers, and manufacturers.  Others are thinly veiled sales pitches for everything from gadgets to campground memberships, so know what you're getting into and don't ever allow yourself to be bullied in buying something you don't need or want.  I am quite offended by high pressure sales tactics and will usually walk out as soon as I encounter them.  A quality product or service should stand on its own without high pressure sales pitches, but do watch for special introductory or "show" prices.  Sellers will often offer new products at substantial discounts to build up interest and get some reviews.

Local land managers such as State Parks, US Forest Service, and the BLM often have a presence and sometimes even sponsor their own trade shows where you can learn more about resources in your area.  When we lived in Chicago one of the state parks showed movies every Friday night. We would bring a picnic dinner to eat before and during the show and then stay in the campground overnight.

So, whether you're thinking of buying your first RV or ready to upgrade or just wanting to checkout the latest gadgets, you'll most likely find it well worth your time and money -- and a lot of fun -- to go to an RV show and test your ideas.

On With The Show!

My Favorite RV and OHV Publications and Organizations

If you are new to RVing, OHVing, or camping you may find it useful to "bone up" by reading some industry publications. I've been RVing and OHVing for nearly 50 years and still find it educational and fun to read current RV and OHV magazines.

I am an avid reader of Motorhome Magazine. I devour each issue from cover to cover over and over. They provide interesting articles on new motorhomes, destinations, new products, and maintenance tips. Each issue also contains technical columns on both coach and chassis where experts answer reader's questions. The classified ads include motorhomes for sale, campgrounds, and many accessories you may find useful. One of my favorite features is the "Quick Tips", a selection of RV tips submitted by other readers. These are usually fast, inexpensive ways to solve simple problems or add convenience or functionality to your motorhome or travel trailer.  Now Motorhome Magazine also includes the GoodSam Highways magazine 4 times a year.  It appears as a special section within Motorhome.  I hang on to issues with particularly interesting or useful articles and frequently re-read them.

If you have a travel trailer instead of a motorhome, I recommend Motorhome's sister publication, Trailer Life.

My favorite dirt bike magazine is Dirt Rider. Dirt Rider is filled with reviews of new motorcycles, gear, riding techniques, and maintenance tips.

If your OHV is an ATV, check out ATV Magazine.

For up-to-date information regarding OHV issues, especially land use issues, check out Blue Ribbon Coalition (BRC). BRC is a good place to learn about and support the efforts to preserve and protect our recreational OHV areas.

There are many good camping magazines, each with its own focus. Backpacker obviously focuses on backpacking. Camping Life is more general, aimed at family camping, truck campers, and pop-up trailers.

There are many other good publications, both online and in print, so do a Google or Yahoo search for your specific interest.  You will find  dozens of offerings on just about any subject or activity that interests you.

There are many good camping and OHV related organizations too.  You will find state organizations like California's CORVA -- California Off Road Vehicle Association. As a current resident of Utah, I recommend both the Utah Trail Machine Association and the Utah Shared Access Alliance. You should also look for local clubs and organizations related specifically to your interests (ATVs, dirt bikes, bird watching, rock-hounding). There are RV clubs, some designed for and sponsored for owners of specific brands and others like the Family Motorocoach Association and local chapters of the Good Sam Club open to everyone and sometimes have chapters dedicated to singles, dogs, and supporting specific charitable functions.

Manufacturers clubs and associations. Many RV manufacturers have or support organizations specific to their vehicles. These are usually inexpensive to join and provide information via websites and printed publications. Some will have local chapters where you can associate and share experiences with other owners. Manufacturer organizations are often an excellent source of maintenance information and resources specific to your particular rig.  A brand specific club can be an excellent source of help when looking for parts or other help, especially with vintage vehicles.

The more you learn about your RV and OHVs, and where and how to  use them, the more comfortable you will be using and enjoying them.  Appropriate tech articles can often save a lot of time, money, and frustration when you happen to encounter a similar problem.  Travel articles can suggest places to go and things to do.  Maintenance tips can save you time and money and make your trips more fun.

Happy reading!

Repairing RV Structural Damage

For the most part, repairing structural damage to an RV should be left to professionals.  They know what they're doing and usually have access to blueprints and schematics to guide them.  However, sometimes we can't afford it, or it doesn't seem cost effective to invest that much money in older units. Sometimes it is impossible to find matching replacement materials. If you have basic carpentry skills and tools you may be able to make some repairs yourself. I had two enclosed motorcycle trailers (toy haulers) that both suffered similar problems. I later learned that these units (both were 1970s vintage Journeyman "Smuggler" trailers, some of the very first "toy hauler" travel trailers) had a known weakness. In both cases the right front corner of the unit came apart. I accepted blame for the first one because I had mounted a shelf in that corner to hold my tool box and I figured the weight of the tool box was responsible for knocking the corner apart. A couple of years later I experienced the same problem on a second Smuggler without the tool box as a potential culprit. I subsequently learned that just the torquing of the the body over rough terrain and many years service caused the separation and that this was a common failure on these models. Following the advice of a friend who had been an RV engineer at Sportscoach and who had built his own personal motorhome from scratch I was able to make repairs myself. In both cases, I carefully removed the interior paneling to expose the structural damage. The framing was made of 2x2 pine, which had shattered or split at critical joints. I carefully measured and replaced the damaged sections and added steel angle braces at each exposed joint.   Note:  I had to bend the angles to fit because the joints in the trailer were not 90° due to the sloped front of the trailer.  To get the front wall pulled back into place, I replaced the standard pipe in a furniture clamp with one long enough to allow the clamp to grip the trailer from end to end. Then I tightened the furniture clamp until the front wall was re-aligned and installed additional angle brackets and bracing to secure the wall in place and to further strengthen the structure before re-installing insulation and the interior paneling. For the first unit, where I had the heavy tool box, I designed and had a local welder build an internal framework of 1" square steel tubing to both reinforce the entire front end of the trailer and hold the toolbox that was securely bolted to the frame. That may have been overkill, but I wanted to make sure my tool box didn't pound my trailer apart again and I never had any more problems.

I justified doing this repair myself because both trailers were many years old and had little market value (especially with the damaged front end). I had little to lose by attempting the repair myself and I could neither afford nor justify the expense of having them professionally repaired -- PLUS I had the advice of an expert to guide me, which was a big advantage.

In my case, the damage was structural, all inside the walls, and the cosmetic components (interior paneling and exterior skin) were salvageable. You may have cosmetic damage to exterior or interior wall or ceiling panels. Cosmetic damage is not uncommon, and, although it may not affect the utility or integrity of the unit, it is unsightly and will reduce resale or trade-in value as well as diminishing the unit in your own eyes.  Damaged external skin can allow the elements access into the walls which eventually causes additional damage.  Sometimes you may be able to match exterior surfaces and replace damaged sections yourself, but finding matching materials for older units may be difficult if not impossible. If that is the case, you may have to replace a lot more than just the damaged section to maintain a consistent and cosmetically appealing appearance. A quick and inexpensive solution I learned from an RV technician for many exterior repairs is to cover the damaged area with a furnace vent like the ones in your home.  You can buy them in various sizes at any home center or  hardware store.  They can be painted to match any color scheme and though non-functional, give a better factory appearance than using unmatched patches. A critical point in making any exterior repairs is ensuring that all seams are secure and sealed before installing any cosmetic covering. Many RVs have fiberglass exteriors and these can sometimes be repaired using fiberglass mesh and a plastic resin filler such as "Bondo".  Such repairs are usually a last ditch effort when replacement parts cannot be found.  Getting a "like new" appearance with Bondo is often attempted but seldom achieved by amateurs.  It is pretty easy to work with but getting a visually perfect finish requires a lot of practice and patience.

Damaged interior paneling is usually more universal and easier to match. Most RVs use common 3/16" luan plywood. In a pinch, you may have to replace more than just the immediate damaged area to make a cosmetically pleasing repair. You may have to redo a whole section or even a whole wall. Replacing damaged exterior panels or "skin" requires carefully removing the damaged section. You may be able to carefully cut out and replace only the damaged area by using matching "trim" to secure and cover the new seams. Or you may have to replace the entire original panel. Replacing interior paneling that has dry rot or has impact damage can greatly enhance the appearance and improve the re-sale value of an older unit. You might use pre-finished paneling,  Other interior replacement panels can be stained, painted, or wall-papered to match or complement the original interior. Sometimes you can install new paneling over old to achieve satisfactory results without taking things apart, but you usually get a better looking and better fitting repair if you remove and replace damaged panels. Covering up rotted paneling encourages further deterioration and may produce unpleasant odors from the old, rotting wood and damage the new paneling you install over it.  Whenever replacing exterior or interior panels, inspect the exposed area behind the panels for structural damage and replace or reinforce any damaged structural members while you have access to them. This is also a good time to check any exposed wiring for wear or damage or perhaps to add wiring for additional accessories (like speaker wiring or additional lights or accessories) you may have in mind or may want someday. All exterior walls should include insulation. Even if, by chance, your unit was not fully insulated, take advantage of having the paneling off to install insulation in the exposed area. Foam board or fiberglass sheet or roll insulation can be easily cut to fit to fill available spaces. Small areas and cracks can be filled with spray foam. You may want to insulate interior walls too, for noise control, if nothing else. If there are visible cracks or seams that could allow moisture or air to enter an exterior wall, seal them with silicone or spray foam insulation. Your goal is to keep the inside of the wall dry and prevent drafts. Moisture inside a wall can result in dry rot and drafts negate any insulating quality of the the dead air space in the wall. Interior panels may be glued, nailed, or screwed in place. If you choose to use screws, you will probably want to use plastic screw caps to make the installation more attractive. Finish the installation by staining or painting the new segment or covering it with wall paper to match or complement the existing decor and use appropriate trim to cover seams and finish any exposed edges. You might disguise interior damage using vent panels or installing decorative features such as mirrors, small cabinets, sconces, or shelves. Wall paper or just wall paper borders might be used to update an old, outdated interior and cover over unsightly walls.  I once made use of an unsightly hole in a cabinet front to install a battery operated clock.  You will find a variety of clock kits at most craft stores that include the mechanism, hands, and pre-glued numbers. 

Other areas that frequently need repairs are floors and roofs. With floors, you can usually take up the floor covering, cut out the rotten or damaged section, replace it with similar plywood or underlayment, then re-install the floor covering. I do not recommend particle board as it doesn't do well if it gets wet.  For best result use a marine-grade, exterior plywood. Roofs are more difficult. You may be able to patch tears in rubber roofs and small punctures in any roof, but internal structural damage requires major renovation. Sometimes you may be able to repair damaged ceiling panels but if the exterior paneling or the infrastructure has been weakened, repairs will be complex and are best handled by professionals since it will probably involve removing and rebuilding the structural components of the roof. It may also involve removing all the upper cabinets throughout the RV. Many RV roofs have all the layers from the ceiling surface to the outside surface laminated together. This makes spot repairs difficult and I would leave any major roof repairs to professionals. Punctures and cracks can usually be successfully repaired at home using materials and sealants that are compatible with the roof material. Dry rot and "soft spots" in the roof are probably best left to the pros. Whenever you make any dry rot repairs anywhere in your RV, make sure the area is allowed to thoroughly dry out before installing new material and closing it up.

Bent or damaged frames are, fortunately, fairly rare, but I have seen it happen.   I discovered a sagging rear end on one of my early Class C motorhomes.  A thorough inspection found that some places where the frame and been extended had never been properly welded into place.  We used jacks near the rear bumper to lift the sagging segment back into place, then reinforced and welded the appropriate joints.  I've also seen frames bent from inappropriate use of air bag suspension.  The air bags were installed per the bag manufacturer's instructions directly over the axle.  Turned out that was the weakest part of the frame and the new air bags became the single, primary point of suspension. supplanting the original design that put the weight at two points where the leaf springs attached to sturdy parts of the frame.  An analysis by a stress engineer I knew determined it would take only a 1" drop to bend the frame over the air bags!  The solution was removing the air bags, then propping up the back of the motorhome and letting its own weight push the frame back to where it should have been over several days.  The next step is to reinforce the weakened frame by welding 1/4" plates along the narrowed portions.  That kind of welding is best done using an arc or mig welder, not a gas welder and extra care must be used to avoid igniting any of the non-metalic components of the RV.  A frame that has been bent or twisted by an accident should be straightened by a professional frame straightening service.  On rare occasions, a frame might get twisted simply by driving the RV aggressively over rough roads and that too will probably require professional frame straightening.

Cabinets and interior walls will sometimes come loose.  While this is not as urgent as significant exterior damage, it is still something you will want to deal with before it gets worse.  You surely want to repair overhead cabinets before the fall on someone!  Try to determine why the separation has occurred.  Sometimes overhead cabinets are overloaded, causing them to pull away from walls and ceilings.  The first step is to empty the cabinets.  Then look for cracks in the interior framing and/or fasteners that have pulled loosed.  Sometimes you can replace loose fasteners with slightly larger ones that will find a grip in the underlying structure sufficient to effect repairs.  Sometimes you might have to add internal bracing that can be secured to the walls or ceiling to anchor the cabinet.  In a worst case scenario you might be able to add a support under the front of the cabinet.  If you use a decorative support like a stair railing baluster under each corner between the overhead cabinet and the counter top below, it can look quite cosmetically pleasing.  When you have completed your repairs, avoid overloading the cabinet again to prevent future damage. If interior walls have separated from the ceiling or from exterior walls, it may be an indication of tweaking of the the whole body of the coach and ultimately the cause of the deformation needs to be corrected.  If you cannot determine the cause of the deformation and simply want to correct the gap you will probably have to disassemble the wall and reinstall it to get a good fit.  To maintain original appearance try to salvage the paneling so you can reuse it.  Sometimes you can shift the framing back into place and secure it to floor, walls, and ceiling.  If the deformation is too great for that you may have to remove the framing and start over, building a frame that will fit properly.  Slight separations can sometimes be covered with moldings for a temporary repair.  Doing so without correction the cause will not fix the problem, but you might be able to get by with it for a while.  Some small gaps are actually quite normal and if they aren't getting noticeably larger with time its probably safe to cover them for cosmetic purposes.

Minor repairs. Normal wear and tear are going to take their toll on any vehicle. You can expect to accumulate scrapes and scratches and perhaps a few punctures in RV wall panels over time. Keeping up with minor defects can often prevent the damage from spreading. Tears in upholstery, drapes, curtains, or carpets should be neatly sewn. Some tears in vinyl upholstery can be effectively repaired with liquid patches or vinyl tape. For temporary repairs, you can use duct tape to close gashes and prevent dirt from getting underneath as well as reducing the chance the tear will get worse. Damage to exterior surfaces require quick attention to avoid dirt, moisture, or wind from causing further damage. A loose exterior panel can be temporarily secured with duct tape to keep it from blowing off and keep the weather out. A tear or puncture in the roof or a side panel can also be temporarily repaired with duct tape in dry weather. In wet weather you may need a special tape that sticks to wet surfaces. It is going to be more expensive and harder to find than duct tape, but it will be well worth it if you can prevent water from getting into ceilings and wall panels. Cracked or broken windows also need prompt attention. Duct tape isn't pretty for this, so you might want to carry a roll of clear packing tape. Cracked or broken mirrors inside your RV create a hazard and should be promptly removed or taped up to prevent glass shards from becoming projectiles during any unexpected violent maneuvers.

Some nicely done repairs may add years of life to an older unit, prevent further damage and even injuries, improve resale value, and give you a lot of personal satisfaction. Sometimes a repair becomes the stimulus for an innovative redesign that corrects defficiencies in the original design or just modernizes the unit and is particularly rewarding when it is complete.

Good luck and have fun!

Cleaning and Maintaining OHVs and Gear

Let's face it:  cleaning usually isn't one of our favorite activites!  However, keeping our equipment -- and our living space -- and ourselves -- clean, properly maintained, and well organized is an important part of staying healthy and ensuring longevity of both people and their possessions.  I have found this is particularly true of OHVs and riding gear.  

Cleaning and Maintaining your OHVs and Gear regularly doesn't mean you are OCD!  It just means you are concientious and prefer to have safe, well functioning equipment.  It isn't just for show.  Cleaning your gear after each use gives you a chance to catch any little problems before they become big ones.  Tightening a few loose fasteners on your OHV may save you buying a new fender or new side plate.  Fixing small holes in riding apparel prevents them from getting so big you have to scrap the garment and buy a new one.

Keeping your OHV and ridng gear in good condition begins with regular inspection, cleaning, and maintenance. Regular cleaning removes dirt and grime that can affect performance and wear as well as appearance. It also gives you a chance to inspect your vehicle and gear and identify loose fasteners and other items needing attention. You should clean, inspect, and repair your vehicles and gear after every outing and even between rides in camp.  Riding gear (pants and jerseys) should be laundered between trips and inspected for wear and tear that may mean repair or replacement.  Dirt and grime left in fabric can wear and weaken fibers, shortening the life of the garment.  Small holes, tears, or loose seams can usually be quickly repaired so you can continue to use the garment for many more rides.

You need to inspect your ride and your gear before each outing and between rides during an outing.   Your pre-trip inspection should be very thorough.  You want to catch any potential problems before you leave home so you can take care of them while you still have access to all your tools and to replacement parts if needed.  Checking your machine between rides lets you correct any new problems, such as loose fasteners, while you're still in camp, hopefully before they become a significant issue out on the trail.

Start with a visual inspection. Carefully look over your ride BEFORE you begin rinsing or washing it. This allows you to detect stains that indicate leaks. Typical sources of leaks are cooling system, fuel system, and oil. Oil leaks may come from the engine, transmission, forks, or shocks.  Note any signs of leakage so you can make appropriate repairs or adjustments before your next ride. While you're at it, remove any large pieces of debris and knock off big chunks of mud such as those that accumulate under fenders. If there are any tears in the seat, repair or cover them before washing to avoid getting water into the padding. If you get the padding wet you're going to have a hard time getting any patch to stick.  Protect the exhaust by inserting a correct plug or fastening a plastic bag over the opening with a rubber band. then avoid directing a powerful spray in that area.

If you use a power washer, take care not to direct the spray on seals where the pressure may force in water and detergents, thereby contaminating lubricants and damaging expensive components. Typical problem areas to avoid include axle and swing arm seals. Removing dirt and grime from radiators and the finned heads on air cooled engines will reduce the chance of over heating. Any good automotive car wash soap should work well on most OHVs. Dish soap, which many people use routinely to wash  cars and motorized toys, tends to remove wax and leave the surface unprotected so you may want to avoid using it unless your intention is to strip all the old wax from the surface or you're going to wax it again right away.

The next step is to rinse the vehicle to get rid of large deposits of dirt and mud and insects. Let it soak for a few minutes to soften deposits, rinse off the mud, then wash it with a soapy sponge or soft cloth. A brush is useful in cleaning tires, spokes, and drive chains. Next rinse it quickly, before the soapy solution can dry. Then dry it with a soft dry cloth. You may notice things that need attention while washing or drying your OHV -- loose fasteners, loose chains, low tires, cracked or missing plastic, damaged or worn hand grips, bent or broken levers, tears in the seat. You will want to keep a pad and pencil close by to jot down things as you notice them. Otherwise, by the time you've finished cleaning and shining your toy you may forget some of the maintenance items. These WILL come back to haunt you, and, in accordance with Murphy's Law, will no doubt fail at the most inappropriate time during your next ride. I like to finish cleaning my bike by spraying it with a product called SC-1. I first discovered this product when living in southern California. Each time I took my bike into KTM of Mojave for repairs, it came back looking like a brand new bike. So I asked them how they did it, and they showed me SC-1, who advertises itself as "A New Bike In a Can". SC-1 is a silicone-based detailing spray that can be used on just about any hard surface. Just don't spray it on the seat right before a ride. It makes it WAY to slippery! But it is really great on plastic, rubber, and painted surfaces. It is a little pricey, usually around $9.00 a can, but well worth it. If your local OHV dealer doesn't stock it, they can probably special order it for you. It is made by Maxima and most OHV dealers carry other Maxima products. In addition to leaving a great shine, the coating helps prevent dirt and mud from adhering to fenders and side covers so your ride will stay cleaner longer and be easier to wash when you get home after your next ride. It also provides some additional UV protection. Note, SC-1 is different from ArmorAll and similar automotive products that are water-based.  Last but certainly not least, re-oil drive chains with an appropriate lubricant.  This will help prevent rust.  Many of my friends like to use WD-40 on their chains after washing their dirt bikes because it has water displacing (WD) properties that can penetrate inside the chain and will help prevent rust.  Commercial spray on or brush on chain lubricants are very effective and are designed to minimize splatter.  Some riders like to remove the chains and soak them in 40 wt motor oil to make sure the oil gets inside all the moving parts.  BTW, if  you should happen to get SC-1 on the seat, you can usually reduce the slipperiness by rubbing a couple handfuls of dirt on it.  Then wipe it clean before mounting up.  Another trick for keeping the plastic on OHVs shiny and clean is to wipe it with a product like MopNGlo, which gives a waxy shine that also helps deflect dirt and mud so its easier to clean next time.

I also like to use SC-1 on hard surfaces on my gear (helmet, chest protector, boots, goggle frames, and plastic parts of gloves) to keep them looking good and easier to clean.

Keeping your gear clean and in good condition not only maintains your image, but improves safety. Take the time the clean and inspect your gear after every outing. Note any repairs needed. A small tear in your riding pants or jersey will only get larger over time and increases the chances of catching on something and causing further damage to the item or even causing an accident or injury.  It might also be a port for an unwanted cool breeze too.  Repair rips and tears or replace damaged items as soon as possible. OHV gear is kind of pricey so you want to get as much use out of each item as you can. Nylon repair tape like that used for tents or sails can sometimes be used to make satisfactory repairs to riding gear and it comes in many colors.  Given the way OHV gloves are armored on the back side, it is likely you'll wear out the palms or fingertips first. Worn gloves will still offer some valuable protection to your knuckles, but you may be headed for blisters on your palms or fingers if they're worn through. Sore hands are not only uncomfortable, but a safety hazard since you cannot grip as effectively and you may relinquish some control, making you more susceptible to bumps and bounces that might separate you from your ride and launch you off in a direction you hadn't planned to go. And you don't have to land on pavement or in a pile of rocks to get hurt. Even sand dunes and grass have remarkably hard surfaces when you impact on them. Helmets need to be inspected regularly and, if you've done a get off where you banged your head pretty hard, your helmet should be replaced, even if there are no visible signs of damage. The padding and energy absorbing materials inside that provide a significant part of the protection may be compromised without any visible evidence. When this happens they can be damaged to where they've lost the ability to protect your head. There is no non-destructive way to test the padding in a helmet. Manufacturers have to remove the padding and cut it apart and test it to determine whether or not it has been compromised. That's how they test them during development. Keep your goggles clean and make sure the strap isn't frayed or too stretched out to be usable. There are a number of good lens cleaners on the market. One called "Cat Crap" claims to have been #1 for more than 15 years. It is a green, waxy substance that cleans lenses and leaves an anti-fog coating that works pretty well.  Don't let the name turn you off.  It looks more like snot than crap and it is really good stuff. I have also used a 3-part Novus plastic cleaner very successfully for years for cleaning goggles. The three solutions vary in abrasiveness to first remove heavy scratches, then lighter scratches, and eventually polish the the lens.  Often only the polish is needed to get goggles ready to use.  Rain-X manufactures a good anti-fog compound for the inside of our goggles. Most good lens cleaners help repel dust and dirt so your goggles also stay cleaner longer. As I mentioned before, I also like to use SC-1 on my goggle frames to clean and protect them. I try to avoid getting in on the lenses because it leaves a coating that may interfere with anti-fog coatings if not thoroughly dried or buffed out.  Boots need to be cleaned and the plastic (and even the leather) parts can also benefit from some SC-1.  Check to make sure all the buckles are complete and working smoothly.  Sometimes grit gets trapped in the buckles and makes them hard to move.  Check the metal tips, replace lost nails, and pound any loose nails back in before the tips come off.  Check the soles.  Standing on foot pegs and kick starting machines takes it toll on the sole and they get worn from using your feet as ground guides in tight turns.  If the soles are getting smooth or showing signs of getting a notch where you stand on the pegs (a VERY common occurrence), it is time to have the soles replaced or get some new boots.  Replacement soles can be purchased online for $35 to $60.  Then you'll have to pay a shoe repair shop to install them.  But that's still a lot cheaper than $300-$400 for new boots!  I've only had to replace soles once and was very pleased with the results.

Plastic chest protectors sometimes get cracked.  The best solution is to replace them before the damaged portion becomes a chest penetrator instead of a chest protector.   However, if your budget is tight you might get away with making some temporary repairs by drilling holes along both sides of the crack and securing it with small cable ties.  If you have a plastic welding kit and an skill using it you might be able to repair the damage that way.  Chest protectors are good candidates for treating with SC-1 for a like-new appearance too.

Regular OHV Maintenance. Be sure to follow the maintenance schedule in your owners manual to ensure maximum performance, longevity, and reliability of your OHV. Proper lubrication is essential, especially since most OHVs are subjected to a lot of harsh conditions (dust, vibration, weather, difficult terrain). Proper adjustment of clutch, brake, and shift levers and drive chains are critical for safety, performance, and reliability. Keep your chain properly adjusted and inspect and oil it before every ride. Nothing will shut you down quite like a thrown or broken chain. Furthermore, when a chain comes off, it often gets "stacked" against the transmission case and can cause severe damage. I've seen them jam the shift lever hard enough to crack the transmission case. Change your oil and oil filter as prescribed in your owner's manual. Clean or at least examine air filters and check oil levels before every ride. A dirty filter has a detrimental effect on performance, mileage, and reliability. Low oil can cause serious damage. We neglected to maintain the oil level in my wife's new Honda CRF250X and ended up with a $2800 rebuild! Always make sure your filter is properly installed and secured. I once had an air filter sabotaged by anti-OHV interests while my bike was unattended in a parking lot during an OHV service project. I didn't realize it until it was too late and I'd sucked enough dirt and sand into the engine to destroy the rings! If you think I'm just paranoid about the sabotage, during that same service project, there was a group of guys following along behind us, tearing down the trail signs after we erected them. They were then dumb enough to try to ride through a group of about 200 riders and 6 rangers with the signs still in the back of their pickup! They received a fist-full of citations and all the signs were confiscated by the rangers before they were allowed to proceed. The riders showed an amazing amount of constraint in that they allowed the offenders to continue on their way once the rangers were done with them, but they sure did a good job of keeping them around while the rangers confronted them!

Remember that list I suggested you make while cleaning your bike? Be sure to go down the list and take care of all the needed items before you forget and before you put your ride away until the next trip!  You don't want to have to scramble to make repairs as you get ready to hit the road.  Tighten all loose fasteners, replace missing pieces, adjust levers and chains, check tire pressures, check air filters, check oil levels, make sure your lights are working (if so equipped). Lubricate all cables. Many newer machines have hydraulic brake and clutch systems, but just about every OHV has a throttle cable. Invest a few bucks in a "cable oiler". This is small device that clamps around the end of the cable. It has a hole for you to insert a tube from a can of spray lubricant (such as WD-40) so you can pressure oil the entire cable. Loosen the cable at the handle-bar end to attach the oiler.  Clamp it around the end of the cable and tighten it.  Insert the lubricant tube in the appropriate fitting.  Then spray lubricant until it appears at the lower end of the cable on the engine. You might be surprised how much better your throttle (or brake or clutch) works with a properly lubricated cable. Loose or damaged grips can be a safety hazard, so replace them as soon as possible. Spray a little hairspray into new grips to make them easier to slide on. When it dries it will also help hold the grips tight.  In cold weather, warming the grips will also make them easier to install.  Put them in a warm room or tuck them inside your shirt for a while before trying to push them onto the bars.

Upholstery (seat) repairs. Because the seat is made of a soft material, it is particularly susceptible to damage. Sunlight and weather alone will cause a certain amount of deterioration, but impact with sharp objects, even buckles on your riding boots, can cause rips and tears. Quick emergency repairs can be made with duct tape or vinyl tape and may limit further damage until permanent repairs can be made. Large rips and tears may need to be sewed. Smaller ones can sometimes be repaired using RTV silicone or even Goop glue. You may be able to repair small tears using vinyl upholstery repairs kits.  They include an appropriately colored liquid you paint over the tear and textured "papers" to attempt to match the original surface.  New covers are available to fit most machines to correct severely worn or damaged seats without having to buy a whole new seat. If no replacement seat cover is available to fit your machine, any good upholstery shop should be able to make a new one for you. Having one custom-made gives you more options to choose the color and express your individuality. I previously cautioned against using SC-1 on your seat, because it makes it to slippery. I like to apply a coat of SC-1 AFTER riding (when the bike is going back into storage for a while)  to renew the seat material and protect it during storage until the next ride. Usually it will have soaked in and dried enough by the next time I'm ready to take my bike out. That way, it isn't as slippery and yet I get the benefits of the silicone to preserve the vinyl of the seat. If you go riding again soon, be sure to thoroughly buff the seat to remove residual conditioner. If it is still too slick, toss a handful of fine dirt on it. It isn't pretty and may get the seat of your pants dusty, but it beats sliding off the bike!

If you keep your OHV and your gear clean and in good repair they should provide many years of pleasant and enjoyable service. You will feel better if your OHV and gear are clean and in good condition and you will be safer and have less chance of mechanical breakdown out on the trail. A well-kept machine will have better trade-in or re-sale value when its time to upgrade.

Happy OHVing!

Putting Together an OHV Ride and Enjoying It

Over the years we've done a lot of dirt bike riding ranging from informal family rides to sanctioned Grand Prix and desert races, and many of the highlights of our OHV activities have occurred during family rides. Races and other events require a lot of formal organization, planning, and coordination with land managers, but even family rides require some preparation and planning. If you want to lead a larger group, you need even more preparation.

If you are new to the sport, you'll want to hook up with someone who knows the trails you want to ride and get them to let you tag along for your first few outings. Getting lost during your first few rides is likely to put quite a damper on your enthusiasm for the sport.  Once you're familiar with the area, you'll feel confident in leading your own family or group.  Whether you're leading a ride or following someone who is, there are basic rules your need to be aware of to have fun and make the most of your ride.

Before beginning any ride you should have a route or destination in mind.   That gives participants some idea of how long and how difficult -- and how fun -- the ride is going to be.  Choosing a route or a destination might be up to the ride leader, but sometimes it is a negotiation among the expected participants.  Knowing where you're going can help you from getting lost or separated from the group -- or can help you reconnect if you do part ways.

Key positions for any ride are ride leader and sweep. The ride leader, obviously leads the ride. He (or she) chooses the route and sets the pace. It takes some knowledge of the terrain and experience leading rides to select appropriate routes and to set a good pace.  It needs to be fast enough to keep the ride interesting and  not too fast or too difficult for any novice riders in the group.  You also need to consider the equipment and skills your riders have.   Trails that are perfectly acceptable for dirt bikes aren't always passable on ATVs.  Technically challenging trails are fun for experienced riders but scary and dangerous for newbies.  Sweep is the last rider in the group. I kind of ended up riding sweep by default when my family first started riding.  I didn't want to hold anyone up and I wanted to stay behind all of my kids and so I could help them out if they had any trouble. I felt more comfortable knowing, that as a novice rider, I wasn't holding anyone up. But usually you should choose an experienced rider to ride sweep, someone who knows the terrain and is capable of handling mechanical and medical emergencies and lending whatever assistance anyone he "sweeps" may need. I was flattered when I learned it was actually a kind of compliment that I was allowed to ride sweep so early in my off roading career. Fortunately I did have mechanical and first aid skills and a pretty good sense of direction.  I was also paranoid enough about getting left behind that I kept a pretty good eye on where the group was going and did my best to keep up.

Regardless of whether you're leading just your family or a whole group of riders, your first step is to decide where you are going to go. That may mean choosing a destination or just a particular trail or trail system you want to explore. In choosing a route, consider the types of OHVs and the experience and expectations of the riders. If your group includes ATVs you will want to avoid single-track trails that are only suitable for dirt bikes and mountain bikes. If you have novices in the group, you will want to steer clear of extremely technical or difficult trails. That doesn't mean you can't still have fun. A trail doesn't have to beat you or your OHV to pieces to be fun. An experienced fellow rider and former desert racer once told me "If  a trail isn't fun at 25 mph, it isn't a fun trail!"  On the other hand, it doesn't have to be and shouldn't be completely mundane or boring. Look for interesting terrain: roller coaster hills, twisty-turny trails through the trees, brush, or rocks, maybe add an easy hill climb or two if everyone in your group is up to it. Including interesting historical or geological features make it fun and provide opportunities for an occasional rest stop. Abandoned cabins and mines, special or unusual rock formations, and even weird or especially picturesque trees are good points of interest.  Whenever approaching especially difficult or technical terrain, plan an alternate route around the more troublesome portions for the less experienced or less adventurous riders. You can pretty much count on it being better and faster to wait for them to go around than to have to carry them back to camp if they break down or are injured. Your "destination" might be a specific landmark, like a cabin, ruins, rock formation, stream, a look out tower, mountain top, or sometimes even a town or a store. Or you might plan a ride to take advantage of a particular known trail. Or you might just decide to "go play around in those hills over there". Any of these are acceptable plans. Just make sure everyone in your group knows your intentions and that you leave your plans with someone at base camp before you take off, and then stick to the plan. Sometimes we choose routes that allow alternate paths for faster and more skilled riders to enjoy a little "hot dogging" to keep things interesting for them. In open riding areas they can ride a parallel course at their own speed -- and wait for the slower riders at pre-designated rest stops. In limited use areas it is important to keep all riders on designated trails. If you have riders of varying skills, you may want to break into more than one group so people of like skill can ride together without pressuring or inconveniencing those of other levels.

Setting the pace. Once again, the experience and equipment in the group you are leading and the difficulty of the route will determine what is an appropriate pace. Experienced dirt bikers like to go fast. However, as I mentioned before, a seasoned rider friend of mine and former desert racer said, "If a trail isn't fun at 25 mph, it isn't a fun trail!" That means, you don't have to be going "flat out" all the time! Sometimes it is more fun to actually see the scenery instead of just a blur, especially if you've chosen your route well. You don't have to be full throttle all the time! ATVs are typically not quite as maneuverable as dirt bikes so you may need to adjust speed to ensure you don't leave any of your group behind if ATVs are included.  ATVs also require wider trails and are not stable crossing steep slopes that dirt bikes take in stride.  Likewise, the experience level of all riders must be considered. Give it a little more time and take it easy if you have young, novice, or timid riders in your group. Gender is not usually a necessary consideration.  My younger daughter was perfectly able of keeping up with the adults when she was 12.  Perceptions of difficulty change as riders develop more skills and confidence. When my kids were young they often begged to go along on the "daddy ride" with me and my adult friends. By the time they boys were teens, it changed dramatically to "I don't want to go on that old man's ride!" -- speaking of the same group of riders on the same kinds of machines and the same proposed routes.

Manage the size of your group. Large groups are difficult to keep track of out on the trail and can present hazards for other groups of riders. One of the best ways to ensure safety is to manage the size of a group of riders and if you get more than about a dozen, break it up into sub-groups, each with its own experienced leader.You can head to the same destinations and follow the same trails.   All riders should know that, if they should get separated from the group, to wait at the last confirmed trail intersection that they know where the group went. Sometimes, in desert terrain, you can locate your group by riding to the top of a nearby hill and looking for riders or dust trails. Just don't lose track of where you need to return to get to that known intersection if you have to stop and wait for them to come back for you! You can keep both groups close together, but having two separate groups divides the responsibility and makes it easier to keep track of everyone on the trail. It is good to have a general idea where your group is headed so you don't follow the wrong dust trail. Finding out you've caught up to the wrong group is embarrassing and wastes a lot of time and by then you will have lost any chance of finding the right dust trail again.

Hands signals. Ordinary driving hand signals are applicable to OHV riding: left turn (left arm straight out), right turn (left arm at the square), slow/stop (left arm down or moved in a downward patting motion). In addition, you will see people holding up a number of fingers (hopefully not just a raised middle finger) when approaching another group of riders coming toward them on the same trail. The number of fingers held up indicates the number of additional riders behind the rider giving the signal. The last rider in the group should raise his hand with all fingers closed and the palm facing the oncoming rider, indicating "zero riders behind me" -- end of the line. Turning the back of the hand toward oncoming riders may be interpreted as an aggressive gesture, especially if you punch the air! Since you only have 5 fingers on one hand it is difficult to represent larger numbers of riders behind you. Displaying an open hand lets the on coming rider know there are AT LEAST 5 more riders behind you. As each rider continues to display an open hand until there are fewer than 5 riders behind you. I've seen guys try to signal 18 riders behind them by repeatedly opening and closing their hands, but it is time consuming, the rider watching you probably isn't counting, and most likely you have better things to do with that hand to keep comfortable control of your machine as you approach oncoming traffic.  You always need to know where you are in the group.  Not everyone knows or cares to use this technique, but it is definitely good trail etiquette to do so and even if you don't use it you should be able to recognize the signals when someone else gives them.

Keeping track of everyone. The larger the group, the more difficult it is to keep track of everyone. Make sure that every rider knows he or she is responsible for the rider behind them. Each rider must look back at every intersection to make sure the rider following them saw where the group went and makes the correct turn. It is always good to remind even experienced riders to keep track of the rider behind them. Some "hot dogs" have a tendency to take off on their own and totally forget about and lose track of the riders behind them. I'd a lot rather make sure slower riders are staying with the group than waste my gas and time having to go back and look for them while the rest of the group bakes in the desert sun! Sometimes we "allow" a group of hot-doggers to run a parallel course as long as they keep the main group in sight. That way they can set their own speed on each section without having to wait for slower riders in front or behind of them.  The only downside is they are usually rested and raring to go by the time the rest of the group catches up with them at each rest stop.  You should always to be able to count on following your group by staying on the trail or road you're on.  If they leave the trail or branch off, each rider should wait for the one behind him to make the turn before heading off to catch up with the group.  If you lose sight of the rider in front of you, just keep going on the same trail.  If you come to an intersection stop and wait there for someone to come back for you.

"Sweep" rider. Choose a competent rider who knows the area to ride "sweep". That is the last rider in the group and he/she will be responsible for "picking up the pieces" -- looking out for anyone who as fallen behind or gotten lost. There are many reasons someone may fall behind. They may not be able to keep up with the group due to inexperience or lack of confidence or perhaps they've experienced mechanical problems or may have had an accident and/or been injured or become ill. In spite of my personal history, riding sweep isn't a job for the slowest or newest rider. Ideally, the sweep rider should be fully capable of dealing with any emergency (navigational, medical or equipment) and be able to lead stragglers back to camp, on to the destination, or to help if necessary.   Sometimes the sweep rider may have to race ahead to catch up with the ride leader to communicate with them about a rider who has fallen behind and may need help.  For added safety and convenience, when possible, the leader and the sweep rider could carry two-way radios to keep in touch.  We've even used them in the desert to communicate between two different ride groups on different routes.

NEVER push any rider to ride beyond their limits. It is good to encourage new riders to develop and improve their skills, but pushing them too far too fast is a proven recipe for disaster! I'd a whole lot rather wait for someone to catch up than have to carry them back to camp when they break down or get hurt going faster than they should or trying to navigate a technical section that is beyond their abilities. When my oldest son was a teenager, he took a couple of inexperienced friends riding with him.  One of them crashed so hard trying to keep up with the more experienced riders that he had to be air lifted out to the nearest hospital.  When we reach a particularly difficult section, I break the group into two sub-groups and provide an alternate leader for an alternate route around the difficult section. There is a time and a place for new riders to push their limits, and unless you design and promote a ride specifically as a "skill builder" and everyone knows what to expect, you don't want riders forced into pushing their personal envelopes too far to where they may injure themselves or someone else in the group. Skill builder rides are an excellent tool for introducing new riders to the sport and improving everyone's skill level. Just ease into it so they can actually build the skills they need before you lead them into extremely technical terrain. Its OK for riders to choose to push themselves a little bit and more experienced riders should support them and mentor them. That is how they develop their skill. But don't put peer pressure on them to tackle technical sections or speeds that are way beyond their current capabilities. That is a sure recipe for disaster -- and having to carry an injured rider and/or broken machine back to camp. And THAT can spoil your whole trip in a big hurry. My teen age son had a novice friend (mentioned above) who, being an invincible teenager, thought he could keep up with the group and ended up being airlifted to the hospital instead when he lost control and crashed hard.  And it wasn't even a  particularly difficult section of trail.  You may have to form your own judgements about a rider's capabilities and not take his/her word for it.  Some new riders will be vastly over confident, some grossly timid about their skills.  It will likely be up to you to mediate behavior of both types.

Take frequent breaks. Stop every few miles at the very least to make sure you haven't lost anyone and to see how every one is doing and if the pace is satisfactory. You may be encouraged to pick up the pace or, on rare occasions, to back it down a bit. Either way, you won't know unless you take time to find out. If you find you are frequently waiting a long time for slower riders to catch up, you may need to slow the pace or choose less difficult trails. Perhaps you can pair novice riders with experienced partners to help them improve their skills. Each time you stop, ask the newer members of the group if they can point the way back to camp, to your destination, or some prominent landmark. This helps riders learn the terrain and ensure they can find their way back if they should get separated from the group. Knowing they will be asked will encourage them to keep better track of where they are as they go. It is also a nice confidence builder for young and novice riders and can be kind of a fun game. All too often riders get tunnel vision and focus on just following the person in front of them.  When they do that they quickly lose track of landmarks and any sense of direction for the way back to camp.  Frequent checks on their observations is a good way to help them remember to pay attention to their environment and the route.

Skill builder rides. To help new riders develop their skills you WILL want to schedule skill builder rides. The route you choose for a skill builder depends on type of equipment, new rider existing skill levels, and what particular skills you want to work on. Hill climbing techniques are very different from those required to negotiate sand washes. Even riding flat smooth terrain, such as a dry lake, has its own specific techniques. A skill builder ride might include any or all types of terrain, but make sure your riders know what to expect so they don't find themselves not only in unfamiliar territory, but in over their heads! No one is going to build any useful skills by tumbling down a mountain side, only by learning the right way to successfully negotiate it. Falling may dramatically point out what NOT to do, but it is an unnecessarily painful way to learn. Much better to start with moderately difficult terrain and work your way up to the tougher stuff as folks are ready. I first learned to negotiate drop offs by "jumping" off a 1' bank into a sand wash. Over time I developed the confidence and skills to handle much larger drop offs of 6'or more. Since deep rain ruts and sand washes are common surprises in desert terrain, being able to handle them is an important skill.  Technical tip:  keep the front wheel up when landing from any jump.  Landing front wheel first will increase the likelihood of crashing!

Before embarking on any ride, check your equipment and safety gear. Top off your fuel, check the oil, check coolant (if applicable), check tire pressures, check your on-board tool kit.  Check your OHV for any loose fasteners.  They can be easily tightened in camp and may cause serious problems if you loose part of your machine out on the trail!    Make sure every rider is properly equipped with the right safety gear and has sufficient water and fuel to accommodate their needs for the intended length of the trip.

Let someone know where you're going and how long you expect to be gone. You or someone in your group could encounter unexpected medical or mechanical problems or have an accident out on the trail. Even if you are just taking a short family ride out away from camp on local trails, let someone in camp know. That way, if you don't come back at a reasonable time, they'll have some idea when and where to come looking for you.

More formal rides. Some folks like the spontaneity of last-minute rides to local attractions near a base camp. A carefully chosen base camp will offer a variety of rides. We usually count on 2-4 hours per ride. Most of our family OHV activity has been of that type. Others may prefer more formal activities, like the week-long rides sponsored by the Utah Trail Machine Association. Some of these rides include Copper Canyon and Baja in Mexico, their Utah 500 (from Mapleton to St George), and a ride to Ouray, Colorado. They schedule a ride in Utah on a trail called "Five Miles of Hell" that is designed specifically for expert riders.  The trail is actually about 20 miles long but it is indeed, ONLY for Class-A, top-notch technical riders and includes at least fives miles of hell.  In any case, proper planning and preparation are essential to having a safe and enjoyable ride. Multi-day rides may require overnight motel accommodations or bringing along some camping gear, depending on the route, the terrain, and the weather.

Mental preparation is also part of putting together a good ride and enjoying it.   If  you're familiar with the trail you can remember the most enjoyable parts and look forward to them again.  If it is new to you, you can anticipate seeing new territory and conquering new challenges.  Either way, set  your mind to have fun -- and then go do it!

Most important of all:  HAVE FUN!  Afterall, we go riding for the fun of it, so make every ride fun.  Try exploring new trails or new destinations.  Sometimes just riding a familiar trail backwards adds interest.  Some downhills may now become hill climbs and who knows what you might see while riding from a different perspective.

Happy riding!

Tent Camping Post Trip Procedures

Proper post camping trip procedures help keep your equipment in good condition, keep your gear organized in storage, and make your next trip easier. Remove all perishable foods and clean your ice chest. I like to use a strong window cleaner with ammonia to sanitize my ice chest to avoid mildew. Leave the lid open for a while for it to dry completely before closing it up and storing it. Check your cleaning supplies and non-perishable provisions and replenish anything that is getting low or nearly used up or has a damaged container. Review the list you made during your trip to remind yourself of items you need to add or remove and services or repairs needed. Keep the list in a prominent place and review it frequently until you have completed all items on the list.  Return perishable items to their proper place in your home.

If you use a porta-potty, make sure you dump it, flush it, and add chemicals to the holding tank. Leaving it sit for a while filled with sewage will create a very unpleasant situation the next time you take it out. Unless there is a chance of freezing, re-fill the fresh water supply tank on the porta-potty so it will be ready to go for your next trip. It is usually easier to remember to refill it when you clean it than when you load it up next time. If you have to carry it up or down stairs you might want to postpone re-filling since water weighs 8 pounds per gallon and 5 gallons of water would add 40 pounds to the weight of the unit.  Just remember to refill it before your next trip.

Spills and crumbs or wet spots left in a tent will attract pests (insects, rodents, and micro organisms like fungus, mold, and mildew) and you'll have a very unpleasant surprise the next time you want to use it. Thoroughly sweep out your tent and wash off any spills or stains.   Let it dry before rolling it up.  Sap and bird droppings are particularly damaging to tent fabric so clean them off as soon as possible.  Damp fabric is likely to develop mold and mildew which is not only unpleasant and unsanitary, it may damage the fabric.  So make sure your tents, sleeping bags, and packs are thoroughly dry before you put them away.

Even a clean tent or sleeping bag will tend to develop a stale odor in storage, especially if it is put away damp. Even if you didn't have any rain the fabric may have absorbed moisture from perspiration, the breathing of occupants, from morning dew, or from the grass and/or ground beneath it. If you suspect your tent or sleeping bag is damp, hang it out to air dry for a day or two before rolling it up and putting it in storage.  And don't roll sleeping bags tight for long term storage.  It will crush the loft and destroy the insulating value. 

Sleeping bags should be aired out and thoroughly dry before you store them.   The best way to store them is to open them up and hang them.  Keeping them rolled can crush the fill, ruining the insulating quality, especially if they're rolled tightly.  Using a "stuff sack" instead of rolling them tightly reduces the chances of over-compression.

Clean your stoves and lanterns and, if you store them inside your house, remove the fuel.  Storing fuel containers inside your house or even an attached garage is dangerous.  Ideally they should be stored in a metal cabinet or shed separate from your residence.

As you're cleaning, take inventory of your supplies, sundries, tools etc. Make a list of things you need to replace or restock. Make sure everything is put away in its proper place. Things often get moved about during a trip and you may not remember where you stashed things by the next trip if they're not in their proper place. You might even want to go over your pre-trip checklist so you can replenish depleted supplies and make necessary repairs before your next trip.

Now, pat your self on the back, have a nice dinner, and get a good night's sleep!

RV Post Trip Procedures

Almost as important as trip preparation is what you do when you come home from a trip.  Proper post-trip clean-up will keep your RV in better shape and make your next outing easier.  Be sure to dump and rinse your holding tanks and refresh holding tank chemicals on the way home. Things can really nasty if you store your RV with dirty holding tanks!  Also stop and re-fill your fuel tank and propane. Be sure to shut off all pilot lights when refueling. Leave the main propane valve shut off when you are done filling the tank. When you get home, re-fill your fresh water tank (unless weather dictates that it be drained to prevent freezing, in which case follow normal winterizing procedures). If you are in freezing weather, add RV antifreeze to the drains and into the holding tanks to prevent the pipes and valves from freezing.

Remove all perishable foods from your RV and clean the refrigerator. I like to use a strong window cleaner with ammonia to clean and sanitize my refrigerator and microwave oven. Turn the fridge off and leave the door slightly open while it is not in use.  You can buy little wire devices to hold the door slightly open but keep it from swinging around when the RV is in motion.  Remove ice cube trays or at least dump out the ice. I usually store full ice cube trays in the freezer in the house so they'll be ready for the next trip. Remove bedding, towels, etc. you have used and wash them before returning them to the unit. While you have the bedding out, it is a good time to vacuum the mattress. Do a thorough interior cleaning job -- cleaning sinks, toilet, bath/shower, stove, ovens, counter tops and tables, Clean all the floors. Sweep and mop hard surfaces, thoroughly vacuum carpets. Spot clean carpets as needed. Take any throw rugs out and shake them. If they're really soiled, wash them.  Vacuum upholstered furniture. Remove extra clothing you brought along just for this trip. Remove prescription drugs. Return CDs and movies to your home. Plug in your battery charger/maintainer or, if you have an adequate built-in charger, plug in the shore power line. Check your cleaning supplies and replenish anything that is getting low, deteriorating, nearly used up, or has a damaged container. Review the list you made during your trip to remind yourself of items you need to add or remove and services or repairs needed. Keep the list in a prominent place and review it frequently until you have completed all items on the list.

Spills and crumbs left in an RV will attract pests (insects and rodents) and you'll have a very unpleasant surprise the next time you want to take it out. Check inside all the cabinets and cupboards to make sure no foodstuffs that may attract invaders is left behind. Clean up any spills. If you find what look like grains of black rice in your cabinets or drawers, you've got mice.  Larger deposits may mean rats, chipmunks, squirrels, raccoons, or skunks.  Leave a mouse bait like Decon to discourage them.  Decon is a poison so handle it carefully and keep it out of reach of kids and pets.  Decon includes a desicant that dries out the corpses so they don't rot and smell if they die inside a wall or other inaccessible area.

Even a clean RV will tend to develop a stale odor in storage. I like to hang an automotive air freshener or two in mine to keep it smelling nice. Don't over do the air fresheners. If there are any leaks in the roof or around windows or in the plumbing, strong air fresheners may disguise the musty odor and prevent you from noticing the problem before it has done serious structural and cosmetic damage.  Any leftover cooking odors in upholstery, curtains, bedding, and carpeting can usually be mitigated with a fabric freshener like Fabreze.  Of course any serious spills or stains on carpet or upholstery should be thoroughly cleaned.  You will want to wash towels, sheets, and pillowcases so they will be fresh for your next trip.

As you're cleaning, take inventory of your supplies, sundries, tools etc. Make a list of things you need to replace or restock. Make sure everything is put away in its proper place. Things often get moved about during a trip and you may not remember where you stashed things by the next trip if they're not in their proper place. You might even want to go over your pre-trip checklist so you can replenish depleted supplies and make necessary repairs before your next trip instead of waiting until the last minute.

If you don't plan to use the RV again for several months, it is a good idea to take at least some of the weight off the tires if you can using stabilizing jacks (the old term is "putting it up on blocks"). If you park on concrete or damp ground it is a good idea to put a wooden "buffer board" under each tire to protect the rubber.

I usually remove the trailer hitch and store it in an appropriate location. Leaving it installed invites two undesirable scenarios: banged shins when you walk behind your vehicle (VERY painful!) and loss of the expensive hitch and ball to thieves -- also painful, but in another location a little higher up -- your wallet!

If you have the time and energy, it is a good idea to wash your RV before storing it. Frequent cleaning makes the job easier and prevents buildup of road film that can damage RV finishes. Think the bugs on the windshield are hard to get off after a trip?  Just wait until they've had a chance to bake in the summer sun for a few weeks!

Now, go inside, have a nice dinner, and get a good night's sleep!

Pre-Trip Procedures

A good pre-trip routine is essential to having a successful outing. Doesn't matter if you're RVing, boating, or tent camping, whether you're going to be riding OHVs or just kicking back, being well-prepared will make things go smoother and you'll have more fun. It is way too easy to forget something you need if you're in a rush or aren't well prepared. I like to use checklists so I make sure I don't forget anything important.

First things first.   In order to plan a trip  you need to know several things to start with:  where are you going?  When?  How many people?  What activities are planned?  Any special equipment required?  Any special diet  needs?  Any special medical needs?  Any weather issues?  You will need to consider and address all of these issues in order to plan a trip.


RV/Vehicle Preparation. Hopefully you keep your RV and/or tow vehicle ready to go and only need to go over your final checklist to make sure everything is ship-shape before departure. Plug in your RV a day or two before departure and put the fridge on electric to cool down the fridge. Make sure your holding tanks are empty and your fresh water tank is appropriately filled for the trip. You only need a little water for a short trip to a full-hookups campground but the tank should be topped off if you're going to be dry camping in a primitive or remote camping area. Check your fuel levels. Make sure you have enough propane for your intended stay and top off your motor fuel. Remember you'll use more propane during cold weather than on summer outings. Check fluid levels (oil, coolant, brake fluid). Check tire pressure. Check your on board provisions: foods, cleaning supplies, medical supplies, linens, spare clothing. Check to make sure your tools are on board and accessible. Clean the windshield, all the windows, mirrors, and lights.   Check the windshield wipers and lights.  Of course if you are going boating you will also need to inspect your boat and associated equipment before heading out onto the water.

If you're tent camping, pre-cool your ice chest.  Since most of us don't have access to large freeze big enough to hold an ice chest the easiest way to pre-cool one is probably to sacrifice a bag of ice to put in a day or two ahead of your trip to cool it down.  Then dump out the melted water (keep any left over ice), add your provision, and a new bag of ice.  Make sure your car is ready for the trip (top off fuel, clean windows, check oil, coolant, tires, belts, hoses, lights, tools, spare tire, etc).

Menu planning. Plan your menus well in advance so you can build up your stock instead of waiting to the last minute and running up a big grocery bill. I often use a computer spread sheet to plan my menus. I set it up for the number of people and the number of days as variables so it can calculate quantities for my shopping list. Having a pre-planned menu may seem to take some of the spontaneity out of your outing, but in my experience it makes things easier and removes some of the hassle of deciding on and preparing meals in camp. Sometimes, if you've planned some special treats, it gives you something to look forward to.  If weather or personal preferences change you might want to switch things around to fit your needs but you'll at least have all the meals covered.

Camping gear. Even if you're camping in an RV you'll probably have some camping gear to get ready. And, of course, if you're tent camping, you'll need to prepare your tent and sleeping gear. Check to make sure all the poles and stakes are present and accounted for and that all the zippers work and that there are no un-mended holes or tears. Take time to set up your tent so you can be sure everything is there and in good shape -- and you remember how to set it up! Be sure you have your ground cloth and that it is in good condition. Check your camp chairs to see if they need cleaning or repair. Check lanterns and stoves. White gas powered units have manual pumps that sometimes need maintenance or repair.  Sometimes its as easy as adding a little oil to saturate the leather washer in the pump.  You'll want to find and fix anything that needs it now, not when you are ready to use it in camp.  Its a real pain to fumble around in the dark trying to service a lantern pump or get the stove going to cook dinner.  Check your sleeping bags to make sure they haven't gained any wanted insect or rodent inhabitants during storage.  If they've been properly stored (hanging up so they can air out and maintain loft of the fill), you will need to roll them up and put them in their bags.  If you stored them rolled up, unroll them and check the fill. If it is flattened out, the bag isn't going to keep you warm.  You might be able to restore loft by tossing them in the dryer with a few tennis balls for a few minutes so the warm and and tumbling can restore the loft.

Route planning. If you're headed to a favorite destination you probably don't need maps but you should check weather and traffic conditions. Accidents,  road repairs, and construction can deliver unwelcome delays on even your most familiar routes.  For new destinations, plot your course on a map or use an online map service like Mapquest or Google Maps or program it into your GPS navigation system. Be sure to look for possible attractions or side trips along the way and leave time in your schedule if you want to take advantage of these opportunities.  Check weather and traffic conditions before you leave home so you won't be caught by surprise when its too late to do anything about it except wait it out.

Leaving your home. You'll want to either stop mail and newspaper delivery if you're going to be gone for more than a day or two or have a friend or neighbor pick them up every day. If you have pets or other animals you'll need to arrange for their care during your absence. I like to set up at least one light on a random timer so the house looks lived in at night. If you're going to be gone more than say a weekend, notify your local police department so they can watch for suspicious activity while you're gone. Be sure to close and lock all the doors and windows before you leave and, if you have an alarm system, set the alarm. In hot weather you may need to arrange for someone to water your lawn and other plants if they're not on automatic sprinkler system.  Be sure to let the police know when you get home so they don't think YOU are suspicious!

Prepare your recreational equipment.  Whether its an OHV, personal water craft, or just fishing gear, sporting goods, or kid's toys, make sure you have everything you're going to need and that is in good repair and ready to use and no parts are missing.

Final loading. You will want to load food and needed clothing just before you leave. Leave any frozen or refrigerated foods in the freezer or fridge as long as possible. Avoid loading perishable foods or medicines way ahead of time, especially if your vehicle will be exposed to temperature extremes before your departure. Grab any CDs, DVDs, or VHS tapes you may want to bring along and stow them. Again, it is important not to load them way in advance if it would expose them to temperatures or humidity that could damage them.

Mental preparation.  Since most of us are so thoroughly ensconced in our daily ruts, it is worth spending a little time mentally preparing for an outing.  Try to wrap up and leave behind any loose ends at work and psyche yourself out toward just having a good time.  Its OK to look forward to each trip and go over planned activities in your mind -- as long as you don't obsess over it.

Have a good trip!

Dust Storms

Camping, hiking, horseback riding, or riding an OHV in a dust storm is not something most of us would do on purpose or would ever want to do. But if your activities take you into remote locations, especially desert locations (which are popular OHV and equestrian venues) you may encounter an unexpected dust storm.

It is unlikely you'll experience dust storms the magnitude of the one in the movie Hildago anywhere in the United States, but wind just about anywhere can kick up enough dust from dry desert areas, fallow fields, or construction sites to be a problem. And you can encounter "dust devils" just about anywhere especially in the desert. Dust storms stirred up by monsoon winds in southern Arizona can come up surprisingly fast and be extremely thick, seriously limiting visibility and sometimes quickly clogging vehicle air filters.

Dust devils are not usually particularly dangerous unless you happen to be smack in the middle of one. They are essentially mini-tornados. They are usually short lived and not strong enough to cause much damage. Your biggest concern if you're caught in one or overtaken by one will be your eyes. They can kick up quite a bit of small debris that can be very painful and dangerous if it blows into your eyes. If you're on horseback, you'll need to consider your horse's eyes too. On an OHV, the engine might suck up debris from the spinning wind so "dust busting" by riding through them to disrupt them is not a good idea. Sucking crap into the engine might be a quick way to make it seize or to bore it out a few over sizes, which pretty much wipes out compression.  You don't even want to think about what it could do to your lungs -- or your eyes!

If a dust storm is approaching your base camp, make sure everything is securely tied down or properly stored inside. Blowing dust means there is wind!  Close all the windows and vents on your tent or RV. Roll up awnings and put away canopies. Put away your camp chairs, inside if you have room but if not, even putting them under your vehicle will give them some protection from blowing away. If you leave your OHVs outside, cover the air intakes to prevent dust from blowing in and clogging the air filter and possibly damaging the engine.

If you get caught in a dust storm out on the trail, seek shelter as soon as possible. If you have enough warning, head back to camp and secure your camp. If you can't get back to camp before it hits you, look for any kind of shelter -- a cave, a thicket, even a gully (if there is no chance of flash flooding in the area). Dust storms reduce visibility and increase the probability of accidents, so slow down until you can find shelter. If you're in an open area with no shelter available, stop, stuff your gloves, bandana, or other spare clothing into the air intake of your OHV, and use your vehicle to provide your body some protection against the wind and debris. Keep your goggles on or cover your face to protect your eyes. Breathe through a neckerchief or bandana. If you don't have one (and you should if you've been paying attention to this blog's recommendations for riding gear), pull your jersey or T-shirt up over your mouth and nose to filter out as much dust as you can.   Your tummy may get dusty and cold but your lungs weren't designed to run on dust.  You can wash and warm your tummy when you get back to camp.  Your lungs, not so much.

One of the greatest hazards of a dust storm is loss of visibility. How far you can see and how clearly you can see will be greatly reduced. Blowing dust and debris might even be enough to blind you at least temporarily if you don't have adequate eye protection. Or the blowing dust itself may reduce visibility to zero. When visibility is restricted, reduce your speed so you don't overdrive your sight picture. When visibility drops to zero, STOP! Keep in mind the storm is going to reduce other rider's visibility, making it harder for them to see you too, so you want to avoid being where other traffic is likely.  The dust storm won't last forever, even if it seems like it does.  Dust may prevent you from seeing obstacles or other hazards in your way.

Breathing may become difficult if the dust is thick or the storm lasts a long time.  You may be able to filter out some of the dust by covering your mouth and nose with a bandanna or other cloth covering.  A light weight ski mask or balaclava like you use for warmth would also work.  In a pinch you can make a sort of Ninja mask using a T-shirt.  Pull the shirt over your head until the neck is above your nose.  Then reach behind your head and pull the bottom of the shirt up over your head and down to your eyebrows.  Then grab the sleeves and tie them behind your head.  This make-shift Ninja mask also works well in cold weather to warm your head, ears, nose and cheeks.  Dampening a mask or bandana with a little water will improve its ability to filter out the dust, but it may be cold as the water evaporates and may get clogged quicker than a dry mask.

When its over, be careful clearing covers from air intakes so you don't dump the accumulated dust into the opening you were trying to protect. Dust yourself off as best you can and clean your goggles. Be careful of the trails back to camp. Blowing dust may have concealed obstacles, ruts, or holes that could be dangerous. Riding or even just walking may kick up a lot more dust than usual and affect visibility, so exercise caution. Even a light breeze may create dust clouds that obscure the trail and landmarks. Dust filled ruts or rocks hidden in accumulated dust are potential disasters waiting for you to find them.

Cleaning up camp after dust storm. You'll probably want to sweep or shake your awning mat. Gently brush loose dust from windows and flat surfaces. Sweep the dust off your picnic table and wipe it down with a damp cloth and perhaps some disinfectant cleaner. If you put your chairs under your vehicle, get them out and shake or brush the dust off them. Dust off any equipment that was left outside. Clean your RV and vehicle windows. You will probably need to dust at least the horizontal surfaces inside your tent or RV too and clean off the picnic table.

Dust off!

Camping in Snow!

Because for many if not most of us, camping is a summer activity, snow is usually not a problem. However, if you do any winter camping or RVing or even venture out either early or late in the season, you may encounter snow. One of my family's favorite outings was our annual "Turkey In The Dirt" Thanksgiving dirt bike trip to the Mojave Desert. Most years the weather was fairly mild, as is normally the case year-round in southern California. However, one year, we did encounter snow, and it seriously changed many aspects of our trip. Our original destination was miles off the paved road, up and down several rocky hills, and we hadn't gone more than 50 yards or so off the highway when we encountered 8-12" of snow on top of slimey, slippery mud and it became apparent we shouldn't go any further. We managed to extricate ourselves, get back on the highway, and moved on to another location where the camp site was closer to the road, on level ground without any hills to negotiate. Much of that trip was spent in the cozy confines of the motorhome, staying warm, playing games, watching movies, drinking hot chocolate, and enjoying other indoor activities. I don't find dirt bikes much fun to ride in the snow. ATVs, especially those with 4 wheel drive are much more stable and appealing for riding on the white stuff and side-by-sides are really fun in the snow. And, of course, a cozy motorhome would make an excellent base camp for snowmobiling and other winter activities, like sledding, skiing, and ice fishing.  Just make sure your RV is properly equipped to prevent the plumbing, holding tanks, and dump valves from freezing.  I encountered winter weather conditions on more than one Boy Scout "Fall Encampment" with my sons.  Believe me, getting caught unprepared for bad weatehr will quickly turn you into a believer in planning for the worst!

Impacts on driving. If you haven't already reached your destination when it begins to snow, you'll have to deal with slick roads and reduced visibility. You may also encounter reduced traction and slippery and muddy surfaces when heading into a primitive camping area such as we frequented in the Mojave Desert. All of these conditions require increased awareness and attention to your surroundings and what your vehicle is doing. Unless you've already done a lot of snow camping or other outdoor winter activities, you probably won't know how your rig will behave when you try to navigate slick roads or deep snow. Snow also causes navigation problems. Reduced visibility from falling or blowing snow coupled with fogging of windshields can seriously hamper your ability to see where you're going. Snow can also alter familiar landmarks and stick to road signs, making it difficult to tell where you are and know when and where to turn. Your best bet is to find a safe location and wait out the storm. If you must continue driving, exercise caution. You will need more room to stop and turn your rig on slick roads. Slow down well ahead of any sharp turns or stops. If your vehicle isn't equipped with ABS braking systems, pump the brakes to avoid having the brakes lock up.  Brakes work by converting the kenetic energy of your moving vehicle into heat from friction between the brakes and the drums or rotors.   Once they lock up, the only "braking" is the already significantly reduced friction between your tires and the slippery road! Even wet roads loose about 50% of traction.  Snow and icy, frozen pavement bring a it lot closer to zero!  Once the brakes are locked, you will also loose the ability to steer your vehicle since the patch of rubber on the slick road can slide in any direction, most likely the one your vehicle is already heading regardless of which way you turn the wheels. Your front wheels need to be rolling to steer the vehicle.  If you're planning to drive where you will encounter snowy roads, carry tire chains to fit your vehicle.  Many highways REQUIRE tire chains when it snows.  Count on it taking a lot longer than usual to get to your destination, especially if you have to put on tire chains.  In addition to the time it takes to install them, you'll have to drive much slower than you would on clear pavement.  Practice putting the chains on at home so you can avoid the learning curve while lying in the snow or slush alongside the highway to install them when needed.  You usually only need tire chains on the driving wheels, but adding them to the front wheels of rear wheel drive vehicles will improve traction for steering.  If  you have dual rear wheels, as many motorhomes do, chains are usually used only on the outside tire but, if possible they should also be installed on the inside tire.   The extra time you spend lying in the snow under  your motorhome to install tire chains on inside duals may expose you to additional traffic dangers as well as to freezing!  Some places, like California do specify installing chains on both tires "if possible" when you have dual wheels.  That might require extra wide chains to cover both tires or having two sets of chains.  Installing two sets of chains can be extremely difficult if the clearance between the duals is tight.

Snow in camp. Snow that comes up while you're in camp may affect your departure plans. Unless you're pretty sure you can make it home -- or at least out of the snow zone -- before there is much accumulation, you probably shouldn't leave when it starts to snow. On the other hand, if heavy snow is predicted, you should clear out as soon as possible to avoid getting snowed in. Your biggest snow problems in camp will probably be due to accumulation. As the snow accumulates, it may hamper your movements between vehicles, dampen firewood, and interfere with many normal activities. Too much accumulation can hamper travel, damage vehicles, and you could get "snowed in" and unable to leave. So try to learn the forecast and act accordingly. Snow can also accumulate on flat surfaces, such as your RV roof, and, if it gets deep enough, the weight may cause structural damage. If you're camping in a tent, you'll want to brush the snow off frequently to prevent buildup that could flatten your tent. If your RV awnings are extended, brush off the snow and roll them up before there is too much build up. Move your firewood under your RV or trailer or put it under a tarp at the first sign of bad weather. Move other camping equipment (chairs, tables, camp stoves, etc) into a sheltered area or cover it with tarp. Cover your OHVs or put them back in the trailer until the weather clears. If snow begins to build up on your RV roof, try to brush it off. The best way to do that is from a ladder beside your RV, because RV roofs are very slippery and you may trip over obstacles like vents hidden in the snow and take an unplanned dive off the roof. That ground comes up awfully fast and awfully hard, even if it is covered in fluffy snow. If snow is in the forecast or you suspect it might snow, makes sure you don't leave anything outside that might be harmed by snow. One of my friends was in the habit of removing his riding boots before going into his RV so they could air out over night and woke up one morning to find 3" of snow in them!

Snow does not have to end an outing. It can cause significant changes in your plans, but, if you are prepared, you may even be able to sit warm and cozy in your RV or tent and enjoy the delicate dance of snowflakes outside. Be sure to have some alternative indoor forms of entertainment readily available, especially if you are camping with children. Books and games are traditional favorites. So is storytelling. If you haven't brought anything with you, try making up your own games. Have the kids try to count snow flakes. The best way to do this is to catch some on a dark piece of paper or cloth, although counting them as they fly by might be fun to try even if it is difficult and frustrating. Watch for animals in the storm. Sometimes the behavior of birds and animals can be very entertaining, amusing, and even educational. If it isn't really nasty outside, you might even try lighting a campfire and enjoying some fresh cooked hotdogs, S'mores, or hot chocolate during a light snow. If nothing else, it will make a good story later -- especially for the kids. If you think you'll be leaving before the snow melts, monitor the accumulation around your rig. Winds may cause snowdrifts to form that could keep your from leaving when you're ready to go. You may be able to dig your way out or want to keep a path cleared before the snow gets too deep to shovel. Sometimes it is tempting to just wait it out, but clearing snow regularly, from roofs, paths, and even the vehicle exit route from your campsite, will make it easier. If you wait until there are 4' drifts in front of your rig, it is going to take a long time to dig your way out when you're ready to leave. If drifts are forming, be especially cautious driving out because you may encounter impassable drifts on the exit roads.

Resource utilization. If you are "trapped" in your RV during a storm you are probably going to consume resources more quickly than usually -- especially propane and battery power, which you'll be using to stay warm and extra cooking that often seems to be a good way to pass the time indoors and feeds our emotional needs as well as filling our bellies. You may consume water and fill holding tanks more quickly too. So...keep any eye on your resources and take steps to conserve BEFORE you run out. One good thing about snow is you can almost always melt it down for fresh water if you're running low. And remember:  don't eat yellow snow!

Auxiliary heat. Unless your RV is specifically equipped for winter camping, your furnace may not be able to keep up with the demand when temperatures dip below freezing during snow storms. Keep doors, windows, curtains, and drapes closed. Cut window inserts from reflective "bubble" insulation (such as Reflectix) so you can use them to reduce heat loss (they'll also help keep your RV cooler in summer). You may need more heat than your standard RV furnace can supply. If you have a generator, you can use electric heaters. We have one that in the form of an electric fireplace that adds a cabin-like ambiance when in use as well as delivering 1500 watts of additional heat. Catalytic propane heaters, both permanently mounted and portable, are other possibilities for boosting your heating capacity. Just read and follow the instructions closely. Even though they don't usually give off toxic fumes they do consume the oxygen, potentially suffocating occupants of a confined space if there is inadequate ventilation.  Constantly running the furnace is going to deplete your battery reserves (unless you're hooked up to shore power), so you will want to monitor  your batter status and either run the engine (on motorhomes) or the generator to recharge the batteries before they get too low to run the furnace.  By the way, you can usually recharge the batteries faster running the vehicle engine than running the generator.  The vehicle alternator puts out a higher powered, regulated electrical current that charges more efficiently than the puny chargers on most RV converters.  A good 3-stage battery charging system will work better than a standard converter, but your best bet for quick charging is usually the vehicle engine.  Even a large V-8 will at idle will probably consume only about the same amount of gasoline as running the generator.  However, the generator taps into the fuel tank higher than the engine fuel line to prevent you from using up ALL your gas running the generator.  If you use the vehicle engine to charge your batteries, keep an eye on your fuel level so you don't run out and end up stranded!

Keeping warm in your tent is more difficult. You may have to snuggle under extra blankets and sleeping bags. Tent heaters may be an option, but extra caution is required to use them safely. If the wind is predictable and blowing away from your tent you might build a campfire in front of the entrance so some of the heat can reflect inside. Again extra caution is required to prevent setting your tent on fire. Don't build it too close and be sure to keep an eye on the wind direction. You might heat some soccer-ball size rocks in your fire and then roll them into your tent to add warmth, but make sure they aren't hot enough to melt or set fire to the tent or sleeping bag fabric. Smaller rocks or foil-wrapped potatoes are a good way to warm your sleeping bag and keep your feet warm. Just make sure they aren't still hot enough to melt or scorch the fabric -- or your feet!  Someone quipped that warm burritos will also warm up your sleeping bag, but the cheese gets between your toes! A Coleman lantern gives off a lot of heat. I normally don't recommend using them inside tents, but as an emergency heat source they can be quite effective if used carefully and with adequate ventilation. Keep them away from fabrics and ensure adequate ventilation so you don't suffocate. If there is already snow on the ground when you set up your tent, tramp the snow down or scrape it away before rolling out your ground cloth -- and be sure to use a ground cloth beneath your tent. Otherwise, warmth from inside the tent will melt the snow beneath it and it will wick up through the floor. Also make sure you brush off all the snow you can from your boots, clothes, and equipment before entering the tent. You probably won't notice extra cold from tracking in snow, but it will make a mess as it melts.  If you must set up a tent on deep snow pack, use an extra sleeping bag or thick sleeping pads between your sleeping bag and the floor of the tent.  You will be more comfortable and less likely to melt the snow under the tent.  You may have to crawl into your sleeping bags to keep warm if all else fails.  There is nothing sissy about avoiding hypothermia!  And, if you are lucky enough to have a partner you are willing to share a sleeping bag with,  you'll both stay warmer than in separate sleeping bags.

Snowy activities. You may not be able to continue your regular activities in the snow. Dirt bikes aren't very stable in the snow. I've seen some innovative rides drive nails through their tires from the inside for added traction,  but the narrow footprint and only 2 wheels is still not very table on snow and ice.  ATVs (quads) fare much better, especially if they are equipped with 4WD. Since side-by -sides are nearly always 4WD, they also fare well in the snow.  But, no matter what you're driving or riding, exercise extra caution.  The snow can effectively camouflage many treacherous obstacles.  Perhaps you should turn your energies toward building snowmen or snow forts instead of venturing out on slippery trails, half-hidden by that white stuff. Just one rock or hidden hole under the snow could quickly spoil your whole day and do reparable damage to you and your vehicle.  Frozen over puddles may look perfectly safe but could be deep enough to swallow your OHV when you break through the ice.

Warming up after cold activities can be a bit of a challenge in camp. It helps if you have a warm RV waiting for you. Hot drinks will do wonders, both for your insides and for your hands as you hold the warm cups. Speaking of warming your hands, placing them in warm water will warm them faster than holding them in front of the campfire. I even cup my hands to hold some warm water to warm my nose when I come in from the cold. Water conducts heat very well; air does not. In fact, the insulation in your home and your sleeping bag is primarily used to create "dead air space" to prevent heat transference. Be sure the water isn't too hot and never put frozen or frostbitten fingers or toes or other body parts in hot water (warm water is OK). If you are tent camping, your tent will provide some shelter but it will be especially inviting and comfortable if you have a tent heater to warm it up. Be sure to provide adequate ventilation, in spite of the potential of heat loss through open windows or vents. A warm campfire will be appealing and, if it is strategically placed in front of your tent door, may also add some warmth there. A good campfire will warm you and help dry your clothes so you stay warmer. You'll lose heat about 25 times faster in wet clothes than in dry.  If you don't have any dry clothes to change in to, wrap yourself up in a blanket or sleeping bag while you dry your clothes by the fire.

Treating frostbite. If a person's skin is turning white and hard or black, or they have lost feeling in the area, seek IMMEDIATE medical attention (call 911). For less serious cases, restore warmth as quickly as possible, but do not warm the skin unless you can keep it warm. Warming it and allowing it to refreeze can make things a lot worse. Better to leave it alone until you can permanently warm it.  Gently warm the area with warm water or wet heat until the skin appears red and warm. If you have no warm water, breathe on the affected area through cupped hands and hold it next to your body. Do NOT use direct heat from dry heating pads, radiators, or fires. Do NOT rub or massage the frostbitten area or break any blisters. Do NOT allow someone with frostbitten toes or feet to walk on them unless it is absolutely necessary. Contrary to a popular myth, do NOT rub snow an area you suspect may be frozen or frostbitten!  Any water in liquid from, even ice water, may be warmer than frozen body parts and warmer than the outside temperatures.  Liquid water, even ice water, will be at least 32°F which may be well warmer than the ambient temperature outside.  Another options, though somewhat disgusting to think about, is to use fresh warm urine to thaw frozen body parts.  I read of a young couple on a first date who were driving in snowy conditions on a mountain road when the girl had an urgent need to urinate.  She sat on the chrome bumper of the car her bare buttocks instantly froze to the cold metal.  Though somewhat embarassing, her date, fortunately, had the wisdom to pee where she was frozen to the bumper and it allowed her to pull free without losing any skin.  How's that for chivalry?

"Let it snow!"