Cleaning and Maintaining OHVs and Gear

Let's face it:  cleaning usually isn't one of our favorite activites!  However, keeping our equipment -- and our living space -- and ourselves -- clean, properly maintained, and well organized is an important part of staying healthy and ensuring longevity of both people and their possessions.  I have found this is particularly true of OHVs and riding gear.  

Cleaning and Maintaining your OHVs and Gear regularly doesn't mean you are OCD!  It just means you are concientious and prefer to have safe, well functioning equipment.  It isn't just for show.  Cleaning your gear after each use gives you a chance to catch any little problems before they become big ones.  Tightening a few loose fasteners on your OHV may save you buying a new fender or new side plate.  Fixing small holes in riding apparel prevents them from getting so big you have to scrap the garment and buy a new one.

Keeping your OHV and ridng gear in good condition begins with regular inspection, cleaning, and maintenance. Regular cleaning removes dirt and grime that can affect performance and wear as well as appearance. It also gives you a chance to inspect your vehicle and gear and identify loose fasteners and other items needing attention. You should clean, inspect, and repair your vehicles and gear after every outing and even between rides in camp.  Riding gear (pants and jerseys) should be laundered between trips and inspected for wear and tear that may mean repair or replacement.  Dirt and grime left in fabric can wear and weaken fibers, shortening the life of the garment.  Small holes, tears, or loose seams can usually be quickly repaired so you can continue to use the garment for many more rides.

You need to inspect your ride and your gear before each outing and between rides during an outing.   Your pre-trip inspection should be very thorough.  You want to catch any potential problems before you leave home so you can take care of them while you still have access to all your tools and to replacement parts if needed.  Checking your machine between rides lets you correct any new problems, such as loose fasteners, while you're still in camp, hopefully before they become a significant issue out on the trail.

Start with a visual inspection. Carefully look over your ride BEFORE you begin rinsing or washing it. This allows you to detect stains that indicate leaks. Typical sources of leaks are cooling system, fuel system, and oil. Oil leaks may come from the engine, transmission, forks, or shocks.  Note any signs of leakage so you can make appropriate repairs or adjustments before your next ride. While you're at it, remove any large pieces of debris and knock off big chunks of mud such as those that accumulate under fenders. If there are any tears in the seat, repair or cover them before washing to avoid getting water into the padding. If you get the padding wet you're going to have a hard time getting any patch to stick.  Protect the exhaust by inserting a correct plug or fastening a plastic bag over the opening with a rubber band. then avoid directing a powerful spray in that area.

If you use a power washer, take care not to direct the spray on seals where the pressure may force in water and detergents, thereby contaminating lubricants and damaging expensive components. Typical problem areas to avoid include axle and swing arm seals. Removing dirt and grime from radiators and the finned heads on air cooled engines will reduce the chance of over heating. Any good automotive car wash soap should work well on most OHVs. Dish soap, which many people use routinely to wash  cars and motorized toys, tends to remove wax and leave the surface unprotected so you may want to avoid using it unless your intention is to strip all the old wax from the surface or you're going to wax it again right away.

The next step is to rinse the vehicle to get rid of large deposits of dirt and mud and insects. Let it soak for a few minutes to soften deposits, rinse off the mud, then wash it with a soapy sponge or soft cloth. A brush is useful in cleaning tires, spokes, and drive chains. Next rinse it quickly, before the soapy solution can dry. Then dry it with a soft dry cloth. You may notice things that need attention while washing or drying your OHV -- loose fasteners, loose chains, low tires, cracked or missing plastic, damaged or worn hand grips, bent or broken levers, tears in the seat. You will want to keep a pad and pencil close by to jot down things as you notice them. Otherwise, by the time you've finished cleaning and shining your toy you may forget some of the maintenance items. These WILL come back to haunt you, and, in accordance with Murphy's Law, will no doubt fail at the most inappropriate time during your next ride. I like to finish cleaning my bike by spraying it with a product called SC-1. I first discovered this product when living in southern California. Each time I took my bike into KTM of Mojave for repairs, it came back looking like a brand new bike. So I asked them how they did it, and they showed me SC-1, who advertises itself as "A New Bike In a Can". SC-1 is a silicone-based detailing spray that can be used on just about any hard surface. Just don't spray it on the seat right before a ride. It makes it WAY to slippery! But it is really great on plastic, rubber, and painted surfaces. It is a little pricey, usually around $9.00 a can, but well worth it. If your local OHV dealer doesn't stock it, they can probably special order it for you. It is made by Maxima and most OHV dealers carry other Maxima products. In addition to leaving a great shine, the coating helps prevent dirt and mud from adhering to fenders and side covers so your ride will stay cleaner longer and be easier to wash when you get home after your next ride. It also provides some additional UV protection. Note, SC-1 is different from ArmorAll and similar automotive products that are water-based.  Last but certainly not least, re-oil drive chains with an appropriate lubricant.  This will help prevent rust.  Many of my friends like to use WD-40 on their chains after washing their dirt bikes because it has water displacing (WD) properties that can penetrate inside the chain and will help prevent rust.  Commercial spray on or brush on chain lubricants are very effective and are designed to minimize splatter.  Some riders like to remove the chains and soak them in 40 wt motor oil to make sure the oil gets inside all the moving parts.  BTW, if  you should happen to get SC-1 on the seat, you can usually reduce the slipperiness by rubbing a couple handfuls of dirt on it.  Then wipe it clean before mounting up.  Another trick for keeping the plastic on OHVs shiny and clean is to wipe it with a product like MopNGlo, which gives a waxy shine that also helps deflect dirt and mud so its easier to clean next time.

I also like to use SC-1 on hard surfaces on my gear (helmet, chest protector, boots, goggle frames, and plastic parts of gloves) to keep them looking good and easier to clean.

Keeping your gear clean and in good condition not only maintains your image, but improves safety. Take the time the clean and inspect your gear after every outing. Note any repairs needed. A small tear in your riding pants or jersey will only get larger over time and increases the chances of catching on something and causing further damage to the item or even causing an accident or injury.  It might also be a port for an unwanted cool breeze too.  Repair rips and tears or replace damaged items as soon as possible. OHV gear is kind of pricey so you want to get as much use out of each item as you can. Nylon repair tape like that used for tents or sails can sometimes be used to make satisfactory repairs to riding gear and it comes in many colors.  Given the way OHV gloves are armored on the back side, it is likely you'll wear out the palms or fingertips first. Worn gloves will still offer some valuable protection to your knuckles, but you may be headed for blisters on your palms or fingers if they're worn through. Sore hands are not only uncomfortable, but a safety hazard since you cannot grip as effectively and you may relinquish some control, making you more susceptible to bumps and bounces that might separate you from your ride and launch you off in a direction you hadn't planned to go. And you don't have to land on pavement or in a pile of rocks to get hurt. Even sand dunes and grass have remarkably hard surfaces when you impact on them. Helmets need to be inspected regularly and, if you've done a get off where you banged your head pretty hard, your helmet should be replaced, even if there are no visible signs of damage. The padding and energy absorbing materials inside that provide a significant part of the protection may be compromised without any visible evidence. When this happens they can be damaged to where they've lost the ability to protect your head. There is no non-destructive way to test the padding in a helmet. Manufacturers have to remove the padding and cut it apart and test it to determine whether or not it has been compromised. That's how they test them during development. Keep your goggles clean and make sure the strap isn't frayed or too stretched out to be usable. There are a number of good lens cleaners on the market. One called "Cat Crap" claims to have been #1 for more than 15 years. It is a green, waxy substance that cleans lenses and leaves an anti-fog coating that works pretty well.  Don't let the name turn you off.  It looks more like snot than crap and it is really good stuff. I have also used a 3-part Novus plastic cleaner very successfully for years for cleaning goggles. The three solutions vary in abrasiveness to first remove heavy scratches, then lighter scratches, and eventually polish the the lens.  Often only the polish is needed to get goggles ready to use.  Rain-X manufactures a good anti-fog compound for the inside of our goggles. Most good lens cleaners help repel dust and dirt so your goggles also stay cleaner longer. As I mentioned before, I also like to use SC-1 on my goggle frames to clean and protect them. I try to avoid getting in on the lenses because it leaves a coating that may interfere with anti-fog coatings if not thoroughly dried or buffed out.  Boots need to be cleaned and the plastic (and even the leather) parts can also benefit from some SC-1.  Check to make sure all the buckles are complete and working smoothly.  Sometimes grit gets trapped in the buckles and makes them hard to move.  Check the metal tips, replace lost nails, and pound any loose nails back in before the tips come off.  Check the soles.  Standing on foot pegs and kick starting machines takes it toll on the sole and they get worn from using your feet as ground guides in tight turns.  If the soles are getting smooth or showing signs of getting a notch where you stand on the pegs (a VERY common occurrence), it is time to have the soles replaced or get some new boots.  Replacement soles can be purchased online for $35 to $60.  Then you'll have to pay a shoe repair shop to install them.  But that's still a lot cheaper than $300-$400 for new boots!  I've only had to replace soles once and was very pleased with the results.

Plastic chest protectors sometimes get cracked.  The best solution is to replace them before the damaged portion becomes a chest penetrator instead of a chest protector.   However, if your budget is tight you might get away with making some temporary repairs by drilling holes along both sides of the crack and securing it with small cable ties.  If you have a plastic welding kit and an skill using it you might be able to repair the damage that way.  Chest protectors are good candidates for treating with SC-1 for a like-new appearance too.

Regular OHV Maintenance. Be sure to follow the maintenance schedule in your owners manual to ensure maximum performance, longevity, and reliability of your OHV. Proper lubrication is essential, especially since most OHVs are subjected to a lot of harsh conditions (dust, vibration, weather, difficult terrain). Proper adjustment of clutch, brake, and shift levers and drive chains are critical for safety, performance, and reliability. Keep your chain properly adjusted and inspect and oil it before every ride. Nothing will shut you down quite like a thrown or broken chain. Furthermore, when a chain comes off, it often gets "stacked" against the transmission case and can cause severe damage. I've seen them jam the shift lever hard enough to crack the transmission case. Change your oil and oil filter as prescribed in your owner's manual. Clean or at least examine air filters and check oil levels before every ride. A dirty filter has a detrimental effect on performance, mileage, and reliability. Low oil can cause serious damage. We neglected to maintain the oil level in my wife's new Honda CRF250X and ended up with a $2800 rebuild! Always make sure your filter is properly installed and secured. I once had an air filter sabotaged by anti-OHV interests while my bike was unattended in a parking lot during an OHV service project. I didn't realize it until it was too late and I'd sucked enough dirt and sand into the engine to destroy the rings! If you think I'm just paranoid about the sabotage, during that same service project, there was a group of guys following along behind us, tearing down the trail signs after we erected them. They were then dumb enough to try to ride through a group of about 200 riders and 6 rangers with the signs still in the back of their pickup! They received a fist-full of citations and all the signs were confiscated by the rangers before they were allowed to proceed. The riders showed an amazing amount of constraint in that they allowed the offenders to continue on their way once the rangers were done with them, but they sure did a good job of keeping them around while the rangers confronted them!

Remember that list I suggested you make while cleaning your bike? Be sure to go down the list and take care of all the needed items before you forget and before you put your ride away until the next trip!  You don't want to have to scramble to make repairs as you get ready to hit the road.  Tighten all loose fasteners, replace missing pieces, adjust levers and chains, check tire pressures, check air filters, check oil levels, make sure your lights are working (if so equipped). Lubricate all cables. Many newer machines have hydraulic brake and clutch systems, but just about every OHV has a throttle cable. Invest a few bucks in a "cable oiler". This is small device that clamps around the end of the cable. It has a hole for you to insert a tube from a can of spray lubricant (such as WD-40) so you can pressure oil the entire cable. Loosen the cable at the handle-bar end to attach the oiler.  Clamp it around the end of the cable and tighten it.  Insert the lubricant tube in the appropriate fitting.  Then spray lubricant until it appears at the lower end of the cable on the engine. You might be surprised how much better your throttle (or brake or clutch) works with a properly lubricated cable. Loose or damaged grips can be a safety hazard, so replace them as soon as possible. Spray a little hairspray into new grips to make them easier to slide on. When it dries it will also help hold the grips tight.  In cold weather, warming the grips will also make them easier to install.  Put them in a warm room or tuck them inside your shirt for a while before trying to push them onto the bars.

Upholstery (seat) repairs. Because the seat is made of a soft material, it is particularly susceptible to damage. Sunlight and weather alone will cause a certain amount of deterioration, but impact with sharp objects, even buckles on your riding boots, can cause rips and tears. Quick emergency repairs can be made with duct tape or vinyl tape and may limit further damage until permanent repairs can be made. Large rips and tears may need to be sewed. Smaller ones can sometimes be repaired using RTV silicone or even Goop glue. You may be able to repair small tears using vinyl upholstery repairs kits.  They include an appropriately colored liquid you paint over the tear and textured "papers" to attempt to match the original surface.  New covers are available to fit most machines to correct severely worn or damaged seats without having to buy a whole new seat. If no replacement seat cover is available to fit your machine, any good upholstery shop should be able to make a new one for you. Having one custom-made gives you more options to choose the color and express your individuality. I previously cautioned against using SC-1 on your seat, because it makes it to slippery. I like to apply a coat of SC-1 AFTER riding (when the bike is going back into storage for a while)  to renew the seat material and protect it during storage until the next ride. Usually it will have soaked in and dried enough by the next time I'm ready to take my bike out. That way, it isn't as slippery and yet I get the benefits of the silicone to preserve the vinyl of the seat. If you go riding again soon, be sure to thoroughly buff the seat to remove residual conditioner. If it is still too slick, toss a handful of fine dirt on it. It isn't pretty and may get the seat of your pants dusty, but it beats sliding off the bike!

If you keep your OHV and your gear clean and in good repair they should provide many years of pleasant and enjoyable service. You will feel better if your OHV and gear are clean and in good condition and you will be safer and have less chance of mechanical breakdown out on the trail. A well-kept machine will have better trade-in or re-sale value when its time to upgrade.

Happy OHVing!