Base Camps

Base camps are a semi-permanent base from which to launch your outdoor recreational activities. They should be conveniently located, with good vehicle access. They should provide convenient access to trails, streams, lakes, etc., depending on the type of activities you'll be participating in.  If you're in a group, they need to be large enough to accommodate all participants. When you are desert camping you want your camp to be visible and easy to find when you're returning from activities, such as hiking or riding OHVs. We use flags attached to our RVs to help identify our camp, both for new arrivals and for returning riders. Collections of RVs can all look very much alike from a distance and you don't want to have to ride from cluster to cluster to find yours. One member of our group flies his Shamrocks off-road motorcycle club flag. I created a simple "DESERT RAT" flag to identify our group of unofficial, family-oriented, recreational riders that I mount on a flag pole that attaches to the tongue of my enclosed motorcycle trailer. At night I add flashing strobe lights on the top of my motorcycle trailer so late arriving members of the group can find us more easily in the dark.

You probably won't be setting up a base camp for a single overnight stay, but they are very helpful for weekends or other extended outings.  They are perfect for OHV or horseback riding and are useful for other roaming activities like hiking, hunting, and fishing.  You can set up a base camp from which to explore many trails or other points of interest.  When you return from a long day you'll have a comfortable spot waiting for you where you can rest and relax and refuel both your ride and your body.  Base camp makes a welcome respite from bad weather.

RVs make great base camps for all kinds of outdoor activities but if you don't have an RV, you can build your base camp around your regular vehicle and your tent. If you're on your own you don't need to worry too much about the size or layout of your own dispersed camping site as long as it meets your personal needs. You can choose the spot you like and set it up any way you desire. You will want it to be functional, well-organized, and easy to find when you return from activities. You want it to be fairly compact.  Your layout and location will be pretty much dictated when you stay in developed campgrounds. But if you are in a group, you need to plan ahead a little bit and organize yourselves to best advantage. It doesn't matter whether you're in a designated group site in a commercial campground or staking out your territory in a remote area when boondocking, there are some fundamental guidelines that will make thing work better. When we set up a base camp for our Desert Rat dirt bike outings in the desert we usually use the old wagon train model and "circle the wagons" around a central fire pit. That keeps everyone fairly close together and we can share one fire, which makes for really great camaraderie and conservation of fire wood at the end of the day. I have a home-made Desert Rat flag and flagpole that fits into a pipe mount on the tongue of my motorcycle trailer, which helps guide other members of our group to the camp. We also put out "Desert Rat" signs along the highway and access road. They are usually just cardboard. I splurged and had some nice painted aluminum signs made up a few years ago with big red reflective arrows but the first time I used them about half of them got stolen. They're too expensive to be disposable so now I only use them close to camp and rely on cheap paper and cardboard signs where I can't keep an eye on them. For cheap and easy signs, I just print them out on my computer printer and slip them into the clear pocket of the cover cut from an old 3 ring binder. You can usually get cheap binders at thrift stores. Look for the ones with clear plastic on the covers. Since they aren't totally sealed they still let rain soak the signs, but most of the time they hold up pretty well.  Installing them with the opening down will help protect them a little bit from moisture (rain or dew).  Make sure you secure the paper inside so it doesn't fall out.  Usually the tacks that fasten the sign to the post take care of that anyway.

Location, location, location is the slogan of real estate agents and developers everywhere. It is also applicable to choosing the site for your base camp. You want a spot that is easily accessible, has enough room for you and any companions, and is easy to locate when returning from activities away from camp. We use flags and road signs to guide people to our camp in the desert during the day and flashing strobe lights at night. You will want your base camp in remote areas to be near enough to roads for easy access but far enough away that you aren't bothered by passing traffic, which can create a lot of noise and kick up a lot of dust and may create safety hazards. When using group sites in developed campgrounds, you will have to pay strict attention to the rules or face ejection or possible fines. Take care to know and follow the rules for primitive camping on BLM and forest service lands too. Just because you're out in the middle of nowhere doesn't mean there aren't any rules.

Group camp sites are available in some developed campgrounds. They will usually have  large, centrally located gathering area with a permanent fire pit and sometimes even rustic seating.  Some even have a "bowery", pavilion, or canopy for protection from sun and and precipitation for group activities.  These special facilities usually require a reservation and may have a fee associated with their use.  Lacking a group site, you may have to reserve multiple individual sites.  It will make activities more efficient and convenient if you can get the individual sites close together.  Camp ground managers will usually try to help you get sites that will work well for your group, but prior reservations might prevent them from being able to give you exclusive use to a bunch of adjacent sites.

When group camping in remote, open camping areas, you'll need to pre-select a spot that is adequate for your group.  Pick a spot that is easy to find and to get to, yet off the main roads and not blocking any roads or trails.   One site we often  used in the desert near California City was on a cul-e-sac -- perfect for easy access without blocking any thoroughfares.  The whole area had once been prepared for a housing development that never happened.  Scout out your site well in advance of your outing so you can be sure of access for all vehicles and sufficient space for your group.   In many open camping areas there are sites that have been used before and may already have a rustic, rock fire ring.  Organize your individual camps around that central fire ring.  If you find yourself in an area without an existing fire ring, try to form your camp around an open area where you can build a fire ring and your campfire won't be at risk of spreading and be sure to properly prepare your fire ring (see Campfire Safety).

Spacing. When joining a group always leave room between your rig or tent and others. You and your neighbors will all need room to unload and maneuver your OHVs or other gear and may want a little privacy. But don't leave TOO much space, which may use up real estate others may need. If you prefer not to camp too close to a specific someone in the group, make sure you leave enough room between your rig and theirs for another rig to fit in -- or camp away from the group. How much space you need to leave depends on the type and quantity of equipment and machinery or livestock each camper has.

Organization. Whether you are camping in an RV or a tent, organize your personal space as well as community space in a logical manner. If you have friends in the group that you usually socialize with, you'll want to be near them. Keep your OHVs and related support stuff (tools, spare parts, fuel cans, riding gear, etc) more or less together near your tent or RV and away from the community fire pit, trails, roads, and other campers. If you are camping in a tent, you'll want to set up your camp upon arrival, creating your kitchen and eating area and setting up your tent and preparing your sleeping bags long before you need to use them. I like to park my OHVs inside the "wagon train" circle and chained or cabled and locked for added security. I've never experienced any theft problems in an OHV camp, but it is better to be safe than sorry. OHVs are tempting targets for young people looking for joyrides and are sometimes the targets of vandalism by anti-off-road interests. I did have a dirt bike I left parked in a designated area while we were doing trail maintenance with the forest service vandalized by such people. Later the rangers caught the same vandals tearing down motorcycle trail signs in the same area and they faced stiff fines. The culprits were dumb enough to drive right into a group of 11 rangers and about 200 motorcyclists with the stolen signs still in the back of their pickup truck!  Duh!  The bikers showed amazing restraint in not pummeling the offenders and the rangers gleefully issued them a fist full of tickets.

Community interests. Sharing a common fire pit means sharing your fire wood and sharing room around the fire. We usually make a common wood pile convenient to the fire where everyone contributes what they brought along and anyone at the fire uses what they need throughout the outing. Sharing room around the fire means not hogging the best spots and making room for anyone else who joins the party. You may have to shuffle positions if the wind changes direction. You'll also want to monitor the wind direction so the smoke doesn't blow into someone's RV or tent. Spontaneous pot luck dinners are always fun. You can drum one up just about any evening and turn it into a party. Each Thanksgiving the Desert Rats had the Granddaddy of all pot lucks for our "Turkey In The Dirt" outing. Admittedly, it wasn't spontaneous but well-planned. We dug a pit and baked turkeys in the pit all day and had previously coordinated other dishes to round out a bountiful feast. One year we had 142 RSVPs and 175 people show up! The sing-a-long has been a campfire staple for decades. Acoustic guitars, banjos, tambourines, and harmonicas fit the campfire ambiance and traditional campfire song choices well. If you don't already know many of the folk music classics that are popular for sing-a-longs, take time to learn some. Some other community considerations include respecting each other's privacy, ensuring the community campfire doesn't create problems for anyone, and making sure group activities don't overwhelm non-participants. One of the best ways to do that is make sure everyone is invited to share in group activities. We found that sometimes it worked well to have two campfires: one for the "grownups" and one for the teenagers. The teen fire was within sight of the main campfire so there was adequate supervision but they were able to have their own music and conversations.  I was amused how often the songs around the teen fire were the same ones we enjoyed around the more traditional "old folks" fire.  If you are planning a large group gathering, consider how you will deal with inclement weather.  At one Turkey In the Dirt we managed by setting up our serving lines inside the enclosed motorcycle trailers generously shared by a couple of participants.  Then everyone returned to their own rigs or tents to eat.  Another time one of the guys brought a couple of really big EZ-ups that he used for activities for the motorcycle club he belonged to and we were able to get everyone out of the rain for our pot luck dinner and subsequent activities.  On occasion we have parked two RVs side by side and stretched large tarps between them to create a protected area.  Having some overhead covering is helpful when you need to escape from the hot sun and pretty essential when its raining, unless you like sitting in wet clothes and eating soggy food!

Setting up a base camp isn't as important for day rides, but for longer excursions (including weekend outings) it is essential and it adds to the convenience and comfort of everyone at any outing. You probably won't want to invest the time and effort it takes to set up a complete base camp for simple day rides.  However, wherever you park your RV or other vehicle becomes your default base camp for short outings. A good base camp can also serve as an emergency center if anyone it the group has problems with their equipment or gets sick or injured. I carry a large first aid kit in my motorhome and let my fellow campers know I am certified in first aid, CPR, and as a Red Cross Professional Rescuer and hold a certificate in Advanced Wilderness Life Support. I have helped splint a couple of broken bones for transport to the nearest hospital Emergency Room and have extracted dozens of cactus spines from riders who experienced the prickly plants too intimately. Superficial burns, bug bites, and road rash are common injuries requiring minor first aid treatment. I long ago stopped counting treatments for minor scrapes, cuts, burns, and blisters. They are just a routine part of just about any outing.  Regardless of the kind of outdoor activities you choose, it would always be a good idea to have basic first aid skills and equipment with you when camping. Even simple injuries such as blisters or splinters can seriously dampen your fun and need immediate attention to prevent infection and minimize discomfort and can occur anytime, during just about any activity.

Sanitation. If you're camping in an RV you have your own personal sanitation facilities, but when you are boondocking, your resources (fresh water and holding tank capacity) are limited.  If you are in a campground with sanitation facilities, take advantage of them. I know the pit toilets in some places can be pretty foul, but better to endure a few minutes there now and then than overfill your RV holding tanks and endure the odors for the rest of the trip -- and possibly weeks thereafter!  I've seen sewage overflows that required all the carpet and padding to be removed and replaced before the odors went away.  If there are no facilities and you are tent camping, move well away from camp and dig a small hole to take care of your needs, then cover it up when you're done. The ladies in your family will probably appreciate having a "port-a-potty" instead of having to use the great outdoors but port-a-potty capacities are very limited. If it fills up you will need to carry the holding tank away from camp to a suitable location, dig a hole, and bury the contents if there is no dump station or pit toilet where you can empty it. Disposing of wastes in this way is frowned upon and in most places is down right illegal. The best place to empty a port-a-potty is a dump station.  If you're in an RV, make sure your dump valves are closed and the cap is tightly installed on the dump fitting. You don't want wastes from your RV polluting your camp site or your neighbors'. In some remote desert locations I've seen people connect a garden hose to a special cap on the dump port to carry gray water away. In many places this practice is strictly prohibited, but it may not be harmful to the environment in places like the open desert if it is done correctly and the waste water is carefully directed away from all campers and where it will not be in any road or trail or drain into any waterway. Local plants may thrive on the extra water.

Lighting. Be careful about lighting up a base camp. You don't want to spoil yours or anyone else's night time experience with too much light. Coleman lanterns and the exterior lights on RVs can provide more than adequate light for most activities. Don't use more than is necessary. You'll just be wasting fuel or batteries and perhaps annoying your fellow campers. I have a pair of small strobe lights I put on the top of my trailer to help guide late arrivals in at night. They're bright enough to be seen from the access road but the height and the intermittent flashing doesn't seriously impact campground ambiance. I've seen high-powered LED strobes designed for the top of flagpoles to serve the same purpose, but they're a little pricey. Mine just plugs into a cigarette lighter type 12-volt receptacle. They were designed to mount on the roof of a vehicle using a big suction cup. I modified the original red, amber, and blue covers using theatrical "gels" to create custom colors unique to our group but to be honest, the colors don't really show up as very distinctive from any distance - but the flashing strobes do! They are are real godsend for late arrivals coming in after dark.  These days you can get powerful LED strobes designed for law enforcement and construction vehicles that would be VERY bright.  That would be great for late arrivals, but might impose on your fellow campers.  Might be all right if they are aimed toward the road and away from camp.

Entertainment. The evening campfire is natural place for sharing stories and talents. Bring along your acoustic guitar, banjo, harmonica, tambourine, etc. I've never seem anyone bring brass instruments, but the traditional folk instruments previously mentioned are perennial favorites. Most people enjoy folk music and singalongs. Be prepared to take requests -- and hope you're not asked to play Long Ago and Far Away!  If you do get such a request it is time to turn over the spotlight to someone else.  Very loud music may have its place at Raves, but it is usually inappropriate and unwanted around the campfire, so leave the electric guitars, amplified keyboards, and brass instruments at home. We sometimes even put a folded towel in the back of the banjo to muffle its bright sound a bit.  Sometimes turning the campfire into a big bonfire can be an exciting group activity, but mostly it just wastes wood.  An appropriately sized fire around which people can gather is more intimate and usually more enjoyable.  The fire needs to be just big enough to accommodate all the people in the group who want to sit around the fire. 

Shared treats. Folks in my Desert Rat group each developed their own specialties they would prepare and pass around the campfire or sometimes take them from family to family. Examples include some rather fancy hors d'œuvres like stuffed jalapenos, cool drinks, and a warm chili and cream cheese dip with corn chips that was especially welcome on chilly nights. Snow cones were always a hit on hot desert afternoons. And don't forget the S'mores! They are a long-standing campfire tradition. Just plan on having gooey marshmallow and melted chocolate everywhere! I've recently found campfire marshmallows the size of racquet balls! Just imagine the amount of gooey stuff those will produce! If you're not careful you could end up like Brer Rabbit and the tar-baby!

Wind breaks (not to be confused with breaking wind). Sooner or later you're going to encounter a windy day in camp. Sometimes, in wooded locations, the trees provide some respite from the wind. We've camped at desert sites among huge boulders that served as partial wind breaks. Consider the possible need for protection from the wind when you choose and layout your campsite to take advantage of trees and rocks if you can. Lacking any natural sources, you may be able to park your RVs to provide some protection for your campfire and other activities. A couple of large EZ-ups can protect quite a few people from sun, wind, and rain. Using RVs as wind breaks has its limitations. First of all, you'll still get wind beneath the vehicles. Secondly, the gaps between and under them may serve as a venturi where the wind velocity is actually amplified. You may be somewhat protected while sitting or standing directly in the shelter of the RV, but the wind coming through the gap may wreak havoc with your campfire and may generate a rather loud and irritating noise. The venturi affect may actually make the wind worse. And remember to park your RV with the front facing the prevailing winds if you can to minimize rocking while you're inside.  Doing so, of course, reduces the effectiveness of the RV as a wind break, but as mentioned before, the gaps between and under RVs may create even more of a problem than if the wind were unrestricted. It may become a tradeoff between stabilizing your RV versus sheltering your central campfire.  You can buy or make wind guards for your camp stoves and BBQs to minimize the effects of wind on cooking.  I've seen times in the desert where the constant wind make it almost impossible to cook on our little portable BBQ and we had to finish the burgers in a fry pan on the stove in the RV.

Sharing is a strong advantage of group base camps. You can share firewood, companionship, expertise, assistance, food, water, fuel, spare parts, labor, knowledge, and entertainment. "There's strength in numbers" is a popular old saying. Camping in a group may deter potential vandalism and even keep wild animals away. Being able to share experience and expertise enhances just about any outing and sometimes can, quite literally, be life-saving. Whether you're learning from someone with more training or sharing your own skills with less practiced campers, it is a rewarding experience.

Variations. As the kids in our Desert Rat group reached their teen years, they often wanted their own campfire, away from the adults and their "old-fogey" music and stories. We often allowed them to set up their own fire, some distance from the main fire, but where anxious parents could still more or less keep an eye on the activities. I was very amused to often find them singing the same songs we traditionally sang around the "old folk's" fire. Some folk music really does have a universal appeal.

Combined RV/tent base camps. While most people will gravitate towards groups that share their camping styles, other shared interests may bring RV and tent campers together in one base camp. Our dirt biking group included people in big motorhomes, small trailers, truck campers, tents, and some just sleeping in their cars. There should not be any problem accommodating the unique needs of all groups, and, in fact, the synergy can be quite helpful, especially when tent campers can set up on the leeward side of an RV to be protected from the effects of wind and rain. And everyone can benefit from shared firewood and camp labor, experience, and companionship.  A spontaneous pot luck dinner is almost always a hit too.

Base camp rocks!

Campground Etiquette

If you are staying in a developed campground, private or public, there will usually be posted rules. But what if you are boondocking or staying in and open caming areas or a primitive BLM or Forest Service campground? Does that mean there are NO RULES? NO! Each agency has its own guidelines you must follow, many of which are specific to a particular area, and there are a number of unwritten rules you should ALWAYS observe, no matter where you are camped. Let the "Golden Rule" be your basic guide. Think about how you would like your camping neighbors to behave, and behave accordingly. Perhaps more importantly, think about how they would like YOU to behave!  Most campers are pretty gregarious and but some do like their privacy and I'm sure there are times when everyone needs -- or wants --a little privacy.

Here are some general rules you should always follow.   Doesn't matter if you're in a fancy campground or camped out in the boonies.

Never, ever allow raw sewage to drain from your RV onto the ground. If you are in campground with hookups or using an external sewage tank, make sure your connections are secure to avoid spills. Drain black water tanks ONLY into an approved, closed sewage tank or dump station and not into an open bucket. In some places draining gray water into an open bucket is allowed, but you will still find it more convenient, pleasant, and sanitary to drain gray water into a closed container. Camping stores sell special tanks made just for this purpose. The larger ones even have wheels to make them easier to transport to the dump station. It helps contain any foul odors and reduces the chances of spillage when you transport the container to be dumped in an approved location. I have seen campers attach a garden hose to a specially designed cap on their gray water drain valves when boondocking to allow gray water to drain out away from the vehicle into the desert or forest. This practice is unsanitary and in most places is illegal but it helps keep the gray water tank from filling as quickly, which is sometimes a  major advantage when boondocking in the desert for several days.  If you choose to use this method, first check the local regulations, then ensure you will not be contaminating waterways or flooding roads or trails or other campsites.  Try to route it downwind so breezes don't bring the odors from your waste water back into your camp or any one else's.  The cap with a hose connection is also a convenient way to drain off a bucket of gray water to use to douse your campfire without having to deal with a flood from the 3" drain.  If you install an inline shut off valve on the hose before you connect it to the cap, you can easily turn the flow on and off without overfilling your bucket and spilling dirty water on the ground. Spills can create unpleasant odors near your RV, so be careful.  Odors are usually not a problem when the gray water is dumped on a campfire unless the water is particularly foul to begin with.  Usually the heat from the fire and/or coals will burn off any odor-producing products.  Never dump black water on a campfire!  If the unpleasant smell of draining it and transporting it doesn't disuade you, the stench of burning it will and it may cause strong, perhaps even violent reactions among nearby campers!

Generator usage. Developed campgrounds will usually post approved hours for running your generator. Lacking posted hours, common sense will dictate what is appropriate. Generally speaking, don't run your generator before 6:00 am (7:00 am is even better) or after 10:00 pm. However, observe the habits of your fellow campers and, if everyone has retired and shut down their generators by 8:00 pm, do the same. Running a generator too early reminds me of a tongue-in-cheek rule for suburbia: "anyone who runs a power lawnmower before noon on Saturday should have to shave with it!"  Running your generator during quiet hours is a really good way to alienate yourself from your fellow campers and you may really not like the actions they may take in response to you lack of consideration.

Other noise pollution. There are other sources of noise that are obnoxious to your neighbors besides your generators. Some people don't so much listen to music as absorb it and have tendency to turn the volume up until it approaches the threshold of pain. A group of teenagers rolled into an OHV camp about 3:00 am and proceeded to blast their in-car stereos at full volume with all he doors open while they unloaded and began setting up their camp.  The bass notes seemed capable of doing CPR on anyone within audio range.  After enduring their unwanted "concert" for as long as I could stand it, I politely approached them and asked them to tone it down. They were surprisingly cooperative and I got applause from several other nearby campers on my way back to my RV. If you MUST have your music blasting in your ears, wear headphones! Same with your TV, especially if it is outside your RV. Kids and pets can be a source of irritation to fellow campers. Many RVers travel with their kids or grandkids and many with pets. Kids and pets have a kind of natural energy that needs room for expression. There are usually playgrounds in developed campgrounds and open areas away from camp when you are boondocking where your young folks and pets can safely play without annoying your fellow campers. There is NO NEED for them to be running and screaming in your camp and absolutely no excuse for them to encroach into other camp sites or common areas or to pester fellow campers.

Other nuisances. Cooking odors and even campfire smoke can be annoying to your fellow campers. Some people are even allergic to smoke and may become ill if exposed to it. Avoid cooking foods that produce strong odors and use only good, dry, seasoned firewood on your campfire. Never burn green wood or wood that is painted or has been treated with chemicals as green wood produces excessive smoke and treated wood can produce toxic fumes. If the smoke from your campfire is steadily blowing into someone else's RV or tent or camp site, douse the fire until the wind shifts. If you smoke, either restrict your smoking to inside your vehicle or approved Smoker's Areas or try to avoid letting your smoke intrude into another camp site or vehicle. BTW, during fire restrictions, smoking is limited to inside vehicles or other structures.   If your campfire fire is upwind from someone else, it might be a good idea to put it out until the wind changes direction rather than subject them to smoke and embers blowing from your fire.  If common courtesy doesn't convince you, perhaps your wallet will:  should the breeze pick up embers and catch something on fire, you could find yourself liable.

Arrival and Departure times. Since the noise of driving in or starting our RVs and driving off may wake other campers, try to schedule your arrival and departure times at reasonable hours, outside of "quiet time". If you MUST arrive or depart during quiet time, minimize your impact on your fellow campers. Dim your headlights or use just your parking lights while maneuvering in your site at night and try to get in your spot as quickly as possible. Don't have someone stand outside your RV and shout instructions. If you need an outside guide to enter or leave your site, use walkie-talkies or hand signals or flashlights to communicate quietly.

OHVs. It should go without saying that you should never start your OHVs in camp during quiet time. If you must get an early start, push your OHV away from camp before you start it up. Even bikers from an outlaw motorcycle club staying at a resort where I worked extended that courtesy to the other guests, pushing their bikes some distance down the road before firing up the big "hogs". Always be considerate of your fellow campers as you ride in or out of camp. Avoid excessive noise, speed, and dust. You may be camping with other OHVers, but that is still no excuse to subject them to unnecessary noise or dust or the dangers of excessive speed. Even though they are fellow riders that may be more tolerant than non-riders, it can still be quite annoying.  There is plenty of time and plenty of places to go fast once you're in an open riding area or out on the trails.

Lighting. Illuminating your campsite is often essential for late evening and night time activities. However, take care to aim your lights so they illuminate YOUR activities and not your neighbor's camp or bedroom windows. Don't leave your porch lights on all night or when you are away from your vehicle for an extending time. Some folks like to leave the porch light on so they can find their keys and see the lock when they return after dark. If you need light for these functions, carry a flashlight. Leaving your lights on will deplete your batteries and annoy your neighbors. Some exterior RV lights have switches that allow them to be turned on and off from the outside so they can be used briefly when needed. If yours does not, you may be able to replace the fixture with one that does or wire in a separate external switch so you can conveniently turn your light on and off as needed.  Motion sensor lights may be another easy solution, turning on when you approach and off again when activity has ceased. I have found this to be an ideal solution and enjoy the friendly "greeeting" from my RV when returning after dark.  Motion sensor lights may also provide a bit of security by exposing the presence of would be thieves and discouraging them before they strike.

Encroachment. Do not encroach on your neighbor's camp site or into the roadways or common areas. That means keep your vehicles, your equipment, your kids, your pets, your noise etc in your camp site. If your vehicle is too big for the your site, check with park management about getting a larger site. Never park on the landscaped areas -- not even your bicycles! And keep your trash under control. Wind can wreak havoc with paper plates, cups, and napkins so keep them weighted down or under control and quickly retrieve them if they do escape. Never usurp another's camp site. If there are chairs, coolers, or other equipment in a site, consider it taken and find another site unless you were specifically assigned that space by park management.  If you do find someone in your assigned space, report it to the campground manager or host immediately and let them deal with the offenders.

Trash. Keep all your trash in secure trash bags or containers with lids to avoid wind or critters from spreading it all over the place. Discarded food scraps are attractive to local fauna, who will quickly destroy unattended plastic bags and scatter garbage like mini tornadoes. Most developed campgrounds will have dumpsters where you can safely dispose of your trash. If you are boondocking, you'll have to follow the backpackers rule: "Pack it in, pack it out". If your stay exceeds a day or two you may need to double bag your garbage to contain the nasty odors that tend to develop in fermenting garbage. Sometimes you can incinerate some of your trash in your campfire, but consider whether it will create obnoxious or toxic fumes and odors. Paper plates and cups are usually safe to burn, even with some food residue on them. Styrofoam and other plastic containers can generate toxic fumes and perhaps should not be burned in a campfire. NEVER put pressurized containers, such as whipped cream or cooking sprays, in a campfire. Even if the contents are not flammable, the heat can cause the container to explode, sending dangerous shrapnel flying in all directions and potentially inflicting serious damage on bystanders, vehicles, and equipment.

Firearms and fireworks. Discharging firearms or setting off fireworks is prohibited in most camp grounds, including many primitive sites on BLM or Forest Service land. In some remote locations, shooting may be allowed, but even in these situations, never discharge a firearm near other vehicles, equipment, or people. Many people enjoy sport shooting, but it should only done on a safe "range". If you are in a remote area that allows shooting, identify a safe area with a suitable backstop to set up targets and carefully mark off the area so fellow campers, hikers, or riders won't wander into danger. Remember that many firearms can shoot over great distances and make sure the area behind your targets and even behind your backstop is clear.   It is always a good idea to designate a "range master" to keep an eye on both the shooters to ensure safe practices and to watch for anyone who might wander into the line of fire.  The use of fireworks is governed by state and local laws and by agency regulations so be sure to know the rules for your location. Even the use of legal "safe and sane" fireworks is prohibited in most Forest Service and BLM camping areas. And just because you see others flaunting the law and setting off fireworks, doesn't mean it is OK. Fireworks present a danger of igniting unwanted fires in grass, bushes, trees, tents, and vehicles.  I know of someone who had the roof of their car caved in when the casing from a large ariel "mortar" landed on it and I've seen errant fireworks shoot under vehicles where they could cause serious damage.  I've also seen them burn deep holes in green lawns.

Pets. Many people like to bring their furry friends along when they go camping. Some private campgrounds allow pets and provide pet areas, some do not -- so check ahead so you don't get turned away when you are ready to turn in. Even when boondocking in remote areas you will need to control your pets, for their safety as well as out of respect for your fellow campers. Not everyone shares your love of your pets -- and some people may even  have serious allergies.  Keep in mind your pets may feel insecure in a strange environment, which may result in whining or other annoying behaviors. It may also affect their digestive systems and create really unpleasant problems if not properly addressed. If you are in a campground with a designated pet area, only let your pets "do their business" in the pet area and not in your camp site or any other part of the park. If you are boondocking, walk your pets out away from all vehicles. If they leave a mess where it will be a hazard to fellow campers, clean it up! Pets may become attractive prey for local predators in remote forest or desert campgrounds. Coyotes, wolves, bears, and cougars are common through much of North America and any small animal, like a cat or dog, can quickly become a tasty snack for them if left unprotected. Most domesticated animals lack the experience and their instincts may have been dulled that protect themselves from wild animals.

Reserved spaces. This is a double-edged sword. If someone has already staked out a camp site they may place camp chairs in the parking area or leave an ice chest on the picnic table. Sometimes they may even have little signs with their name designating their claims. As a courtesy, we should respect such claims and look for another site -- unless someone is trespassing on your ASSIGNED camp site. If you encounter trespassers in an assigned space, report them to the ranger or camp host rather than confronting them. It will be a lot more pleasant for everyone. The other side of this situation calls for us to be thoughtful and considerate when claiming camp sites. Check with rangers or camp hosts regarding their policy before "reserving" camp sites unofficially for your friends and family. Try to get everyone to arrive about the same time so you can all stake out your territories simultaneously. Don't "claim" a site while you tour the campground to see if there is one you like better. Try to do all of your exploring before you stake any claims.  A careful review of the map when you check is usually sufficient to avoid choosing a site that wouldn't be appropriate for your needs.

Proximity to other campers will dictate some of your options and behaviors. Basically, the closer you are to someone else's RV, tent, picnic table, or campfire, the more you need to limit your impact on them. If you're camping way out in the boonies with no one else around, you'll have quite a bit of freedom. But if you're in a developed campground or camping together with a group, you'll need to take care. Being a good neighbor will usually ensure you have good neighbors.

Respect shared resources. Many times you will be sharing resources with other campers. You need to be considerate of their needs. Even when boondocking you will probably be camping in a group and may share a common campfire. Pay attention to where the smoke is blowing and avoid burning anything that creates excessive smoke or foul odors. Some places, like forest service campgrounds, have common water faucets to supply multiple camp sites. Don't monopolize the faucet filling a hundred gallon fresh water tank if there are other people waiting to use it. Common restrooms and showers in campgrounds are a major convenience for tent campers and give RVers an opportunity to enjoy more room than they typically have in their RV showers or enable more than one person to shower at the same time. A pet peeve of RV park owners is RVers who take the spare toilet paper roll from the bathrooms. That is a particularly bad idea for at least two reasons. First of all, it is stealing, plain and simple. Secondly, it is extremely inconsiderate of other users. How would YOU like to find all the toilet paper is gone when you need it? Lastly, the quality of toilet paper used in regular bathrooms isn't compatible with the holding tanks on RVs. RV toilet paper is specially made to break down in holding tanks. Regular household and commercial toilet paper doesn't break down so it can clog drain hoses and valves or accumulate inside holding tanks, contributing to inaccurate or non-existent sensor readings.   In a way people who snag the spare toilet paper from the park restrooms deserve the problems it may create in their holding tanks.  Speaking of toilet paper, don't you find it odd that businesses that claim their employees are their most important asset put them in open cubicles yet keep the toilet paper in locked steel boxes?

Recreational facilities are among the amenities found at many campgrounds. Keep in mind these are designed for the benefit of ALL campers and not intended for your exclusive use. Volleyball courts, tennis courts, basketball hoops, horseshoe pits, pavilions, etc must be considered community property and everyone given equitable access. It is particularly annoying when someone ties up a resource for other than its intended use for extended periods of time, like parking vehicles or putting picnic tables on the basketball court or using the horseshoe pit for a doggy toilet!

Campground reservations.  Reservations are required at many campgrounds.  Don't expect them to "make room" for you if you show up without one.  You will usually be required to make a deposit when you make a reservation.  Typically you will forfeit the deposit if you cancel the reservation.  If you simply fail to show up, you will be liable for the full amount of the full time you reserved.  If something comes up and you have to cancel or change a reservation, notify the campground as early as possible.  Typically, any cancellation will forfeit the deposit (usually the first night's fee) and anything less than 7 days notice of cancellation may be charged the full amount. If you encounter these kinds of cancellation policies, the facility is not trying to rip you off.  When they take your reservation they remove your site from their inventory and often turn away other requests.  It is only reasonable that you pay for the site since you have prevented them from renting it to anyone else.

Camping etiquette is more about behaving responsibly and showing consideration for your fellow campers than it is about adhering to definitive and restrictive rules. To begin with,  be sure to obey all posted rules. Then observe and copy good behavior by your fellow campers and avoid copying offensive or questionable actions.  Oppressive rules and regulations develop as a result of repeated abuse.

Mind your manners!

Camping Supplies from Dollar Tree

Dollar Tree  (and other dollar stores) probably doesn't pop right up when you think of camping stores.   True, you won't find tents or sleeping bags or stoves or lanterns at Dollar Tree, but you will find lots of supplies that can support your camping activities.  I take that back.  I did find some little solar powered lanterns at Dollar Tree one time but they aren't always available.  They often have solar pathway lights that can be easily adapted for many camping uses.

I am a strong proponent of looking for camping and RV/OHV supplies everywhere I go.  I have found bargains at drug stores, farm and ranch stores, travel centers, and grocery stores as well as at RV, OHV, camping, and outdoor outlets.  You can often find things you can use for camping in your own basement, attic, or garage.  One kind of surprising place I've found is my local dollar store.  The solvent resistance foam tiles on the work bench in my enclosed motorcycle trailer are kids animal puzzle tiles from the 99 Cents Store in California.  I was teased a lot when my riding buddies first saw them (pastel colors with cute animal cutouts), but they sure changed their tune when they saw how well they worked!  Not only do they provide a cushioned, non-slip working surface, they are surprisingly easy to clean.  I was delighted to discover that brake cleaner would remove oil and grease stains easily and completely without harming the tiles.  The first time I tried it I fully expected it to melt the tiles and I would have to replace them but they cleaned up like new, with no degradation at all!  So far they have served me well for decades!

Some people are skeptical about the quality of products at dollar stores.   But many times they sell name brand products.  Sometimes they may purchase overstock or discontinued items but sometimes they simply have enough buying power to offer brand names at significantly reduced prices.   Sometimes they might be reduced sizes.   If  you have any concerns about quality, you can always give it a try and make up your own mind without investing a lot of your hard  earned cash!  Even smaller sizes might give you a good chance to try out some products without breaking the budget.  Cleaning supplies, sundries, and even OTC medicines are usually a good value and acceptable quality.  Some folks are a little skeptical of cheap tools, but I have found them adequate and quite useful for light duty use around camp, and not too costly to replace if they are lost, stolen, or damaged.  At only a dollar each, they pay for themselves with just a single use!

We get most of our cleaning supplies, toiletries, sundries and OTC medications from Dollar Tree along with flashlights, batteries, and many kitchen utensils.  Paper goods, plastic utensils, etc are also readily available.  The cheap single ply toilet paper is a pretty good substitute for the more expensive RV tissue and a lot more compatible with holding tanks than the fancy quilted brands favored for residential use.  To be sure it will break down satisfactorily in holding tanks drop a few sheets in a jar of water for a while and shake it.  See how it is done on this RV toilet paper test.   It should quickly dissolve.  If it doesn't, don't use it in your RV toilet or porta-potty.

I've mentioned Dollar Tree and other dollar stores in several places in this blog.  Not long ago I found a camping article on Pinterest that also entreated readers to shop Dollar Tree for camping supplies and things to keep kids occupied in camp and on the road.  There were a few negative comments in response to her presentation that I thought were unwarranted or at least unjustified or uninformed.  As with anything you buy, you should make your own decisions and buy what works for you.  Like me, the original writer touted the advantages of dollar store flashlights and batteries.  At least one reader flat out rejected her advice.  He argued that sturdier flashlights lasted longer.  I stand by my original recommendation of using dollar store flashlights and batteries, especially for kids and loaners.  Like the critical reader, I like to have a couple of high quality Maglites for my own use.  They are indeed sturdy and will last  long time but I have found it particularly advantageous to use inexpensive and easily replaceable flashlights for kids and as loaners.   Those light weight plastic flashlights may not be as durable as nicer ones but, hey, I'm not out serious $$ if they are damaged or don't come back.  I was really ticked when one of my kids "borrowed" my brand new blue anodized Maglite for cave exploring and brought it back looking like it had been through a rock avalanche.  The good news?  It still worked just fine.  It just wasn't very pretty any more.  No doubt a cheap plastic flashlight would have been left in pieces in the cave. But at least I wouldn't have been out much!  Ever loan out a tool or piece of gear and have the borrower forget to return it?  If  you're like me it has happened more times than you would like, but I still like to be a good neighbor and help out my fellow campers when I can.  Having a few inexpensive flashlights and tools to loan out or for kids and grand kids allows me to do that without concerns or regrets.

Many of the cleaning products at dollar stores are brand names so often there is no question about quality.  However, don't reject their own house brands or off brands.  My wife and I have found than many of the "Awesome" branded products at Dollar Tree are excellent quality and match or even sometimes exceed the performance of similar brand names.  In addition to liquid and aerosol cleaners you can often find a variety of wet wipes.  I've found leather wipes, tire wipes, stainless steel wipes, furniture wipes, glass wipes, and mechanic's degreaser wipes in addition to traditional baby wipes and general purpose wipes.  They seem to come and go so I advise stocking up on what you want/need when you see them. They will last a fairly long time as long as the original package isn't opened.  Once the  package has been opened, always store it with opening down and put it in a Zip-loc bag between trips so it doesn't try out.  Standard detergents and cleaning products are usually kept well stocked so you can usually get those just about anytime.  By the way, aerosols are less likely to spill than liquid cleaners but if you're deeply concerned about their affect on the atmosphere, use manual spray products, or where feasible, wet wipes.  When I think about the overall effect of spills, I tend to favor aerosols rather than have to deal with the damage and potential air pollution from spilled liquids. 

OTC medications are another category I find Dollar Tree to be a good source for.  It enables me to easily and inexpensively stock my medicine cabinet with a variety of choices so all member of my family or group can chose their favorite pain relievers, etc.  Aspirin doesn't work for every one so I carry acetaminophen and Ibuprofen too. Nice not to have to shell out big bucks for each bottle.  Another good thing to have when camping is a supply of allergy medicine as we often encounter pollen and other substances that we normally aren't exposed to and which can cause unexpected allergic reactions.  Cough drops are useful if anyone gets a cold during an outing.  I like to stock up on multiple flavors to appeal to differing preferences in my family.  Antacids, like Tums, are good for the upset stomachs that often accompany too much picnicing.   Diet and meal patterns are often different than at home, so an anti-diarrheal medicine is a good thing to have around.  Since stuff in our RVs and camp kits often sit around a long time before being used it is also nice not have a large investment in disposable items that may have to be thrown away before you use them up.  Because RVs don't always get used regularly medicines often have to be replaced periodically without being used up.  Fortunately, most medicines are good long after their official expiration dates, but if you have any concerns, it is inexpensive to replace them at Dollar Tree and maintain peace of mind.  I have found surprising number of different types and sizes of bandages and medical tape.  And I keep a tube or two of Superglue in every one of my first aid kits.  Superglue is almost the same thing as pharmaceutical grade "Dermabond", but a lot cheaper, especially when you get it at Dollar Tree.  In use it may sting a bit more than real Dermabond, but it will essentially work just as well at holding small wounds together.  And it bonds instantly to skin.  I've heard it will sting a bit more than Dermabond, but since I've never used Dermabond I can only attest to the very satisfactory performance of Superglue.  I find the little "single use" tubes particularly good for first aid.  I once got a bone-deep cut on one of m little fingers when it got caught between a trailer hitch and a bumper.  We washed it out with alcohol and stuck it together with Superglue.  In a few days it had healed and barely left any scar.   That was several years ago and today there is no trace of the injury left at all.  You will often find pocket sized first aid kits at your dollar store.  I like to stock up on these so that everyone in my family always has a basic first aid kit in their pack or pocket and I can share them with guests.  You aren't going to handle major injuries with a little pocket first aid kit but they are perfect for the many smaller tasks that often pop up during outdoor activities.  Things like slivers, little cuts, blisters, insect bites and small burns are all too common when camping.  Since we seldom get to do as much camping as we would like to do, it is nice to have an inexpensive source for restocking expired provisions.

You can  usually find an assortment of bandaids and other bandages at Dollar Tree.   This is a very inexpensive way to restock or supplement your first aid kit.   They often  have individual pocket-sized first aid kits that are really handy for outdoor activities.  If you have small children or grandchildren some of the cutesy cartoon characters, camofluage,  or Star Wars bandaids are always a hit.  I once even found some antibacterical bandaids which were treated with silver nitrate at Dollar Tree.  I stock up on individual first aid kits quite regularly and make sure everyone in my family has an up-to-date one in their fanny pack tool kit on their dirt bikes.

I often find bandanas at Dollar Tree.  There are easily dozens of uses for a bandana when camping, ranging from fashion to first aid.  You can review some of them on my bandana post.

Kitchen utensils are another group of things that I have found frequently suffer from abuse or loss during camping trips.  Items from a dollar store may not be restaurant quality but I find they usually at least match things I buy at grocery and department stores and, once again, the low cost makes them cheap and easy to replace when they get ruined or go missing while camping.  The low cost also means it is economical to bring along duplicates if you have room.  We've found it is often very nice to have extra spatula or serving spoon.   The plastic or wooden handles on cheap utensils are easily damaged in a campfire but  I've even found sturdy all stainless steel items that are perfect for camping.  My wife liked my camping ladle so well she commandeered it for the kitchen at home and I had to look for another one.  Light weight pots and pans sometimes show up at Dollar Tree and they would be OK for your RV or camp stove but I wouldn't want to use them on a campfire.  The kitchen section is also a good source for dish towels and hot pads.  BTW, I've found the concentrated version of dish soap to be perfect for camping.  The smaller size takes up less room in camping tubs or RV cabinets and the concentrated form seems to work better.

There are usually a good selection of toiletries and sundries, which allows me to stock up for camping and have enough for my whole group and to share with fellow campers should the opportunity arise.  The only downside is that with the cost so low it is easy to OVER buy for my family, but at least everyone has the products they like to use.  I encourage using things like combination shampoo/conditioner to minimize RV bathroom clutter.  Or go even one better, and get the 3-in-1 shampoo/conditioner/body wash.  Not only do these combo products save space in your RV or camp kit, they help you conserve water since you don't have to separately rinse out shampoo and conditioner.

Dollar stores usually have a fairly large selection of beauty products -- combs, brushes, nail clippers, nail files, chapstick, etc. making it very inexpensive to stock up on what you and your family might need in your RV or camp kit.  Sure, you can just bring your shaving kit or toiletries bag from  home, but having everything stocked for your outings make it more convenient and you are less likely to forget something you need before the outing is over.  Sometimes these items might not be quite the quality of department store or brand name items, but they usually more than adequate for camping outings, giving you many options without risking the more expensive ones you use at home.

The "Soft Lines" section often includes socks, knit gloves, knit caps, t-shirts, and other expendable items you might use on camping trips.   Once again, these are especially handy to have for kids and as loaners.  I  found the little, stretchy knit gloves worked well for glove liners for my dirt bike gloves on cold days, and they are a whole lot cheaper than commercial glove liners.  Who cares if they're Playboy pink or baby blue!  Cheap T-shirts are always handy for work shirts.  I even found some with pockets which makes them especially useful!  Ball caps are handy to keep the sun out of your eyes on outings and for just a buck each you aren't out much if you lose one.

The hardware selection usually includes a few small hand tools and car care products.  The tools may not be professional quality, but are often quite adequate for the light use they will get when camping and the low price makes them very affordable.  And, should they break or get lost, you're not out a lot of money.  Low price also lets you get as may as you need to have them at all the places you will need them.  Convenience is valuable when camping.  And, when I lend out tools from Dollar Tree I don't have to worry if they don't come back.

Inexpensive toys for camping can be a real boon to young families.  It is also gives grandparents a way to stock up on things to entertain their grand kids during an outing or a visit.  Things like sidewalk chalk and squirt guns appeal to kids of all ages.  Same with glow sticks, necklaces, and bracelets, which are fun for after dark activities.  Even adults enjoy cooling down on a summer afternoon with a "Supersoaker" squirt gun fight.  And the dollar store lets you arm your whole army without a big price tag and the low cost pretty much eliminates worry over them getting lost or damaged, which are both frequent occurrences with any group of active youngsters.  The variety of crayons, colored pencils, and colored markers along with coloring books and pads of various sizes can provide hours of entertainment for the budding artists in your group.  You can usually find a variety of simple games as well as other basic toys to keep the little ones busy.   A bunch of  art supplies and indoor games are especially nice to have  for kids of all ages on rainy days in camp.

Flashlights and batteries are always good to have in camp.  While I do enjoy using my sturdy aircraft aluminum Maglite, inexpensive plastic flashlights and LED lights from the Dollar Tree are really nice to have on hand for children and as loaners.  The low cost batteries may not last as long as higher priced brand names but since they spend so much time in storage in RVs and camping kits it is good not to tie up a lot of money and have them go bad and the low price lets me have an adequate supply of replacements for every application for each and every trip.  I've used small Dollar Tree LED flashlights in my tool kit on my dirt bike we great success.  They are sturdy aluminum construction, are light weight, and have endured 100s of miles of bumpy trails in my dirt bike tool kit.  The low cost allows me to stash little flashlights wherever they might be needed for added convenience in my RV, camper, tool box, motorcycle trailer, back pack, and fanny pack.  The batteries from dollar stores might not be the highest quality or longest lasting, but I've found the low price makes it possible to maintain a good back stock of batteries in my RV, boat, and camping kits without investing a lot of money.  I was really happy when I discovered some small solar lanterns at Dollar Tree.  Just wish they had them all the time.  Next time I find them I will definitely stock up!

Some people (including you and me) might be kind of choosy about tools and hardware, but low cost might allow you to supplement your tool box and spare parts with little investment and you don't have to worry about losing your good stuff.  I frequently find little items, like razor knives (3 for $1.00), that are handy to have in my camp kit and my tool box at home.  I would not be likely to pay normal retail for them for such occasional use, but being able to have them at a reasonable price often makes many tasks around camp easier and more fun.  It also allows me to duplicate some hand tools so I can them where I frequently use them instead of having to always go back to my tool box when I need something.    An extra screwdriver and/or pair of pliers tucked into a pocket or pack can be very handy.  And they don't have to be heavy duty, professional quality, precision items for occasional light use around camp or on the trail.  I've even picked up rolls of wire that is perfect for wiring hand grips on OHVs, sometimes getting 3 rolls of different colored wire for $1.00!   Nice to have options if you're sensitive to color coordinating things on your ride.   BTW, you'll find that a pair of specialized wire-tie or "safety wire" pliers will make that task pretty easy and kind of fun, but you probably won't find them at your dollar store.  Try your favorite OHV or auto supply store.  They can be a bit pricey.  I've seen them from $30 to $385!  One of the best deals I found was two pair (6" and 9") plus some wire on ebay for $31.99.  Wire tie pliers have a locking mechanism to hold the wire secure while twisting it with a special built in spinner as you pull on the pliers.   It will pull the wires nice and tight and lock them securely in place with a very tight, neat twist.  But go easy.  It is way to easy too twist the wires off and then you have to start over.  You might want to practice a few times before relying on the technique to secure the new handgrips on your OHV.

Solar walkway lights from Dollar Tree can often be adapted for use as tent and campground lights.  Remove the ground stake and add a hanger to use it as a tent light or stick the ground stake into a can or jar partially filled with rice, beans, or pebbles or into an inverted flower pot to use it on your picnic table. Solar lights are also useful for illuminating tent pegs and poles so you can avoid tripping over them at night.  A solar walkway light on either side of your RV step makes it easy to find in the dark.  LED "tap" lights are an easy way to add lights to cabinets and closets or under the hood for checking your oil.  I've also seen them installed inside the lids of mason jars to turn them into little table-top lanterns.  Sometimes you can get some that were designed for kids that are very colorful and shaped like various animals.  They make good individual tent lights or bunk lights in an RV.  They provide sufficient illumination for individual needs without impinging too much on fellow campers and being battery powered they won't run down your RV or vehicle batteries,  especially useful around kids who often "forget" to turn off lights.  I have even found small LED tent lanterns at Dollar Tree a few times.

Having access to inexpensive products provides an opportunity to experiment with different things to find out what works best for you and what you like best.  Sometimes you will even find things in the toy aisle, like the foam tiles I used on my motorcycle trailer workbench.   If you get something you don't like, you've only wasted a dollar, which you might get back at your next garage sale!  I've found that particularly useful for kitchen utensils.  You can try out a variety of sizes and shapes.  Keep what you like working with and put the others in your next garage sale or donate them to your favorite charity.  If all else fails, you can throw them away without feeling guilty about having wasted a lot money on them.

There are a few things that might be kind of deceiving at dollar stores.  It is often tempting to buy plates and other tableware or glassware at only $1.00 each.   But doing that you could spend $32 for complete place settings for 8 when you may be able to buy a complete set at a department store for around $24.  Same with silverware.  $1.00 each is a good price to replace a couple of lost or damaged pieces, but if you need a full set you will probably get a better deal somewhere else.  A full service or 8 would run at least $24-32 and you can usually get a full set at a department store around $20 or so.  Being able to buy replacements for $1.00 when you need them can still be helpful.  I read somewhere that plastic bags, like sandwich bags and freezer bags at dollar stores come in such small quantities that the per item price is higher than it would be at your local grocery store.  However, sometimes being able to purchase the smaller quantities as needed helps the cash flow and might be just what you need for camping and the smaller sizes might actually fit better in RVs and camp kits.

The only warning I feel I must share is to avoid over spending!   It is really easy to justify just about any individual item since it is "only a dollar".  I find that even when I drop in to pick up just a couple of very specific items, I typically end up with about $27 worth of stuff in my basket or cart by the time I get to the register.  With that in mind I figure I'm being frugal any time my total is less than $27 at checkout.  As long as you really want or will actually use your purchases, what you spend shouldn't be a problem.  But do be aware that you might rationalize rather emotional, spontaneous purchases of items you might be more reluctant to purchase at higher prices.  After all "its only a dollar!".  It is really easy to accumulate a whole lot of those $1.00 items!  That being said, I very seldom if ever regret having spent "only a dollar"

My local Dollar Tree recently changed most of their prices to $1.25!  A sudden increase of 25% on everything seems a bit much to me, although I understand that their costs have been going up and they have held their $1.00 price for nearly 3 decades!  However, even at $1.25, most Dollar Tree items are still a pretty goo bargain.  I haven't stopped shopping at Dollar Tree, but I am a little more conservative in my purchases these days.

Happy Shopping!

Setting Up Camp

How you go about setting up camp will depend on several factors, mostly what kind of RV you have, if any, and where and when you are camping. Other factors include weather, terrain, what kind of optional equipment you have and how many people you have to help you and to keep track of. It will make a difference whether you are group camping with other people or camping solo. Camping and RVing are great family activities. There will be many benefits to sharing responsibilities for setting up camp with other family members, including children. One major advantage is they will feel more a part of the excursion if they are involved. They will also have the opportunity to learn responsibility and gain valuable camping and survival skills. On top of that, setting up camp will be a lot easier and go a lot faster when tasks are divided among several campers instead of all falling on one person. Admittedly, teaching children will initially take more time than doing it yourself, but the investment will pay great dividends in their personal development and eventually will take some of the load off you.  Besides, it is fun to watch them!  While tent camping may mean a lot more setup, just positioning and leveling an RV and getting camp equipment unpacked and set up will take some time. The better and more practiced your routine, the faster it will go. Many campers, especially children, are super anxious to begin the planned recreational activities so it is easy to put off some aspects of setting up your camp. Try not to fall into the trap of rushing off to play without getting setup. You will almost always find your stay more enjoyable if you are organized to start with. Setting up camp can be a fun activity in itself.  Some of us are perfectionists and prefer to do things ourselves. We each like things done in a specific way and often have difficulty delegating tasks to others. True, the first time it may actually take more time to show them what to do than to do it ourselves, but with a little practice and patience, we can give others an opportunity to learn and share in essential tasks, taking off some of the load and getting everyone on to the other fun stuff faster.  Getting everything setup when you arrive leaves you free to enjoy the rest of your stay.  Putting it off until later often introduces extra work and takes extra time.  You might find  yourself trying to do a lot of things in the dark!  Better to be well organized to start with.  I even like to prepare my campfire so all I have to do is light it when I'm ready.

A primary consideration for both RV and tent campsites is finding a level spot to set up. In most established campgrounds this isn't a problem, but it can be a serious issue when boondocking. The closer the spot is to level, the better. RVs need to be level for comfort and so the refrigerator will work properly. Tent sites need to be level so you don't roll or slide down the hill while you're sleeping. If you MUST set up in a location that isn't level, try to orient your RV so the front wheels are down hill. That way it is easier to drive up on leveling blocks or, if you're lucky enough to have hydraulic levelers, they won't lift your back wheels off the ground. The back wheels are usually where your parking brakes are and lifting them off the ground lets the RV roll. If you can't level your RV, try to orient it so your feet will be downhill when you're sleeping. If you have to set up your tent on an sloping side, orient it so your feet will be downhill. If you lie across the hill you will roll. If your head is downhill, stomach bile will creep back up your throat during the night and that is definitely not a good way to get night's sleep.  Dinner doesn't taste so good that second or third time around!  Stomach acid creeping up in your throat will also give you a sore throat. 

Motorhomes are about the easiest to setup in camp. Often all you have to do is pull into your assigned space and, if you're in a campground with hookups, connect your water, power and sewer. You probably won't need to hook up the sewer hose until you are ready to dump you tanks.  Setting up right away leaves it out in the sun longer causing it to deteriorate faster and it may be a trip hazard or might be damaged if someone steps on it.  You won't need it until the black water tank is at least 1/2 to 2/3 full. If the space isn't level you may have to do some leveling and you will want to activate any stabilizing system you may be using. Automatic levelers make leveling and stabilizing really easy. Automatic levelers usually work in two stages. When you first activate them, the leveling jacks swing down. This allows you to place "jack boots" under the jacks to spread the load and keep them from sinking into softer surfaces. The second stage senses the position of the RV and lowers each jack as necessary until the RV is level. If you have a manual leveling system you will have to operate each jack as needed until the RV is level.

Trailers may need to be disconnected from the tow vehicle to be leveled and stabilized. Other than that, setting them up is very much like setting up a motorhome. Sometimes a space may be too short for your tow vehicle to remain connected to the trailer and you'll have to park beside the trailer or in another designated location. Even if there is enough room, you may need to disconnect in order to be able to adjust the height of the front of the trailer in order to level it.  You can usually achieve front to back leveling raising or lowering the tongue jack.. Side to side discrepancies will required the use of jacks or leveling blocks.

Once you have parked, leveled, and stabilized your motorhome or trailer, connect to park facilities (if available), extend your awning(s), and roll out and stake down your awning mat. If you plan to use your own picnic table or BBQ, get it out and set it up. You will probably want to close all the curtains, shades, or drapes both for privacy and temperature control. Closing window coverings keeps the interior cooler in summer and warmer in winter.  Start your water heater and make sure your refrigerator is working. If the weather is cool, start your furnace. If it is hot, start your generator and turn on your air conditioning. Unload fire wood and stack it somewhere convenient to your fire pit, but at a safe distance so it won't be ignited by sparks or blowing embers.  If you plan to watch over the air TV, raise the antenna and aim it in the direction of the station.  If you use a satellite system, align your dish.   If you weren't traveling with the water heater on, turn it on now.

Tent Camping. We'll start with the basics. Many aspects of tent camping will apply to camping in an RV as well. First, locate your camp site. If you're in a developed campground, your site will be assigned at check-in time. Sites are usually identified by numbered posts or signs where you park. Most sites in developed campgrounds will include a picnic table and fire pit. Park your vehicle, taking care to stay within the bounds of your assigned paved or graveled parking area. Do NOT drive over grass or landscaping unless instructed to do so by your camp host and NEVER allow your vehicle to intrude into another camp site or public area or hang over into the roadway or pathways. Inspect your site and decided where to put your tent. Ideally it should be upwind and uphill from the fire pit and from any nearby toilet facilities. An appropriate "pad" is usually provided in developed campgrounds -- a fairly level area cleared of major debris.  Usually it will be a nice grassy spot.  When in remote locations you'll have to identify and clear your own pad.  Unload your tent and other major components, such as ice chests and stoves. Survey your chosen or assigned site to determine how to make the best use of available features and improvements. Your options may be limited when you are in a developed campground but when camping in a primitive site you may be able to design your own camp layout. Find a safe place for your fire pit and try to place it downwind of your tent and your vehicles if possible. In a developed campground, set up your tent upwind from the permanent fire pit. I would set up my camp kitchen near the fire and close to any sources of water if I can. Choose a level spot within your designated site, clear of rocks, twigs, and other debris to set up your tent. Make sure you have enough overhead clearance if you choose a spot under trees. Lay out a ground cloth if you are going to use one beneath your tent. Ground cloths help protect tent floors from dirt, punctures and ground moisture. Tarps are usually sturdier than the thin fabric of tent floors. Just be careful that your ground cloth does not extend beyond the edges of your tent. If it does, it will collect and funnel any moisture (rain, dew, melted snow) under your tent! Personally, I like to use a ground cloth inside my tent too. That way I am sure my sleeping bags will be protected against ground moisture but it doesn't protect the tent floor from stuff on the ground the way one beneath the tent will. Using both gives maximum protection against unwanted moisture from the ground reaching your sleeping bag and spoiling your night's sleep as well as protecting the tent floor. Roll out the tent and stake down the corners. Then erect the poles according to the manufacturer's instructions. If you can set up the poles without staking down the corners, do so. Then crawl into your tent, roll out your sleeping bag, and make sure there aren't any sticks or stones beneath you. It is a lot easier to move the tent and clear the obstacles before you stake it down. Weather permitting, open windows and/or doors to allow the tent to air out. It will probably be a little musty from being in storage since your last trip. Set up your air mattresses or roll out your sleeping pads or install foam floor tiles if you're using them, then roll out your sleeping bags on top of them. Rolling out your sleeping bags in advance allows the compressed filling to expand and restore "loft" and insulation before you need it. If they have been rolled up for a long time, it might be a good idea to hang them outside where the breeze can help freshen and fluff them up. It may also help "air out" any musty odors that may have accumulated in storage. Hopefully you can leave room in your tent to store other items and for undressing and dressing. If you are using a small pup or pop-up tent, there may only be room for your sleeping bags and any other gear will have to be stored elsewhere. In good weather you may be able to leave it outside, but if the weather is bad or if you suspect your gear may be subject to theft or tampering, cover it with a tarp or put it back in your vehicle. I like to use a tent sized for one more person than will be occupying it so we have extra room for dressing and undressing and for gear.

Next, set up your camp kitchen. You want this to be safe, convenient, and easy to use. It should be downwind from your tent and your vehicles. You may want to use one end of the site picnic table (if available) as a convenient place to put your stove, ice chest, and water jugs. Lacking a table you might use the tailgate or trunk of your vehicle. You should keep your non-perishable foodstuffs in plastic tubs that can be easily stored back in your vehicle along with coolers for perishables when you're done with meals to prevent animals from getting into them. Even metal coolers aren't enough to stop bears from helping themselves to your goodies. Old-timers sometimes hang their provisions high in a tree to keep them safe, but putting them back in your vehicle is much easier, although bears have a been known to break into vehicles in search of food. There are portable camp kitchen support systems that can also be used if you have room to transport them. They usually fold up into a compact bundle and are made of aluminum so they are light weight and easy to transport and relieve your dependence on having a picnic table available when you arrive. These stands often include a place for your camp stove, racks for utensils and condiments, some (usually limited) counter space, sometimes a portable sink, and maybe even a spot for your ice chest. Set up and check your camp lanterns. If you have battery powered lanterns you need only verify battery and bulb condition. For gas-powered lanterns, you will need to check the fuel level and the condition of the mantles. Be careful fueling liquid gas lanterns. Use a funnel and stay far away from any open flames, including the pilot lights on your water heater and fridge! Mantles in gas lanterns, once installed, are made of ash and are very fragile and easily damaged in transport so bring plenty of spares. If the mantle is damaged, replace it before it gets dark. Also be sure to make sure you have a trash can or trash bag convenient to your cooking area. I sometimes bring along a portable sink when tent camping. It is made of plastic and has a built in reservoir and pump for the water. It isn't large enough for doing dishes, but it is great for personal hygiene, such as brushing your teeth, shaving, and washing your hands and face.

If you are tent camping in a primitive area without any restrooms you'll need to choose an area for a latrine. For a short stay you may just dig individual holes as needed but if you're going to be there for several days or have a bunch of people in your group, you might want to dig a trench latrine for added convenience. Make sure all latrines are downwind from your camp site and at least 200' away from any lake, stream, pond, spring, or well.

Set up your campfire. If it is cold, you may want to get the campfire going sooner rather than later so you have a place to warm up during other camp chores, but for ideal camping weather you probably won't need it until evening, long after everything else is ready to go. Even then, I like to set mine up when I set up camp so all  I have to do is light it when I'm ready to use it.  If you are in a developed or even a previously used primitive campground, there will probably be an existing fire pit. If you are in a remote area, you may have to build your own fire ring or use a portable fire pit. In any case, you'll want to get your fire set up and ready to light before it gets dark so it will be ready to just light when you need it most. Unload your firewood and stack it neatly where it will be convenient to use by safe from sparks.   Clean out and repair rock fire rings, then set up your fire for later lighting.  See my previous post on Campfire Safety for additional tips on campfires.

Set up optional camp equipment. You may have camp chairs, a dining fly to shade your picnic table and protect it from rain and bird droppings, and games or recreational equipment to be unpacked and set up.  If your activities include OHVs or other motorized toys you will want to get them unloaded and prepared for use.   If there is a likelihood of bad weather, cover outside equipment with tarps and secure them so they won't blow away.   If the weather is TOO bad, consider postponing getting things out until it clears up a bit.   If you're using a Sun Shower, fill the bag and hang it or lay it out in the sun to heat. If you have an awning mat, roll it out and stake it down so it doesn't blow away if the wind kicks up.

If you are RV camping in a remote or primitive area, try to use a previously used camp site. This will avoid unnecessary environmental damage and will make setting up your camp easier for you, especially if there is an existing fire pit. Sometimes you can see where other RVs have been parked and this may save you time and effort locating an appropriately level spot.  Most group camps are set up around a central fire pit, so locating the fire pit may help you identify potential camp sites.  Then follow the same procedures as you would in a developed campground (except you won't have any hookups), once again taking care not to encroach on any neighboring campers. If you must set up in a pristine area, do your best to minimize the footprint you leave and take advantage of level areas and any natural features that may provide protection from wind or rain. Avoid camping in depressions or dry washes, especially if there is any chance of rain. Even if the rain is many miles away, flash floods can arrive with surprising speed and force in a previously dry creek bed or wash and quickly inundate low lying areas.

RV Camping with hookups. Setting up camp with your RV is a mostly matter of locating your assigned space, properly parking and leveling your vehicle, and connecting to the camp ground hook ups. Some campgrounds don't offer full hookups so you will have to adapt to what is available and hook up what you can. Always keep all of your vehicles on the paved or graveled parking areas unless otherwise instructed by the campground host. Once you have parked your vehicle, proceed to block it securely and stabilize or level it. Then connect shore power, water lines, and sewer hoses. It is a good idea to carry a volt-meter with you to check voltage at camp sites. Low or high voltage can damage your converter and any electronic equipment you may have on board. It is also surprising how often you may find sites that are mis-wired.  Sometimes extension cords are mis-wired also.  I once had a brand new heavy duty extension cord that was cross wired, so be sure to test your cords as well as the receptacles.  There is a simple, inexpensive device you can plug into any standard 15 or 20 amp 120 volt outlet to confirm the wiring is correct. They are available at some RV stores and in hardware stores and home centers. A combination of lights indicate the status of the outlet and can warn you of wiring errors before they can damage your RV's electrical system or equipment. If the voltage is low or high (below 110 volts or over 130 volts)or the receptacle is mis-wired, DO NOT plug your RV into the camp receptacles. Report the problem to the campground manager. Connect your fresh water hose (use only a white, potable water hose -- ordinary garden hoses will give your water a plastic taste) to the faucet at your campsite. Make sure you are using YOUR faucet, and not one intended for a neighboring site. Sometimes hydrants are placed between sites and shared by more than one site. Use an inline pressure regulator to protect your RV plumbing from excessive city water pressure. Water pressure can vary significantly from place to place and even from time to time during the day and you want to be sure you are protected from unexpected surges that might rupture lines or damage faucet seals inside your RV. I like to put mine between the faucet and the hose so it protects the hose as well as the RV plumbing. Connect your sewer line. If your RV has separate dump valves for the gray water and black water tanks, connect the sewer line to the gray water tank and to the dump pipe and then open the gray water valve completely. If you have a single dump port, connect the hose from that dump port to the dump pipe and then open ONLY your gray water dump valve. You need to leave the black water valve closed to let the black water tank fill at least half full before dumping it to prevent the accumulation of solid wastes that are left behind when liquids quickly drain off if the valve is left open. Some people recommend letting the gray water tank also fill before dumping it, but that usually isn't necessary. Some commercial campgrounds offer extra-cost cable TV and telephone hook ups. If your RV is so-equipped and the campground offers these service, connect the cable TV and Phone lines. Make sure all your electrical lines and hoses are flat on the ground or mark them with bright ribbons so passersby won't trip over them, which could disconnect them or cause someone to be injured. Many campgrounds these days offer wifi Internet service. You won't need a physical connection, but you will need to get the login information from the campground host to be able to use your laptop in your RV. You should try out your Internet connection so you can seek assistance from the host before you really need access if you have any problems. Now turn on the faucet and verify that you have water at all fixtures inside your RV. Make sure your main propane valve is opened. Start your water heater. Most modern heaters have an electronic ignition that only requires you to turn on the switch at the control panel. Older units may require you to light the pilot light. Be sure to carefully follow the lighting instructions on the water heater to avoid injury to you or damage to the water heater. If the weather is cool, start your furnace. Like water heaters, most only require you to turn on a switch and set the thermostat. Some use the thermostat alone, in which case just setting the desired temperature is all that is desired. In hot weather, turn on the roof A/C. If the inside of your RV is warmer than it is outside, air it out before turning on the A/C. Open a few windows to allow cross-ventilation and/or turn on any powered roof vents to evacuate hot air. Remember that hot air rises, so powered or even unpowered roof vents will let the hottest air out the fastest. Check the status of your refrigerator to make sure it is functioning. Light the stove briefly to ensure it is operating correctly. This gives you a chance to diagnose and correct any problems prior to dinner time! It also clears air from the propane lines. If you weren't running the refrigerator in transit (which I normally do), turn on the fridge. If you have a problem with any appliance and do not have the knowledge, skills, or tools to diagnose and correct it, check with the campground manager. Often these folks are able to help you resolve problems themselves or can put you in contact with local mobile RV technicians who can come right to your RV to fix things for you on the spot. If your RV doesn't have a permanent bed, unpack your bedding so it can air out and restore loft to sleeping bags so they'll be ready to crawl into when bedtime rolls around. If the campground offers Internet service either connect a cable to the port on the pedestal or obtain the wifi password from the office.  Wifi is more common than hardwired Internet in campgrounds.

You may now want to roll out your awning mat and open your awning. Awning mats help catch dirt, mud, sand and debris before it gets tracked into you RV and helps define a pleasant patio sitting area. Even if you don't have a full size patio mat, even a small welcome mat outside your rig will help keep dirt outside. If the mat is on gravel or grass you can stake it down with spike-type tent stakes to keep breezes from attempting to relocate it. When camping on asphalt, I use a Hilti style rim-fire nail gun to literally nail the mat down. In either case, you will want to have prepared your mat by installing grommets at appropriate locations (all 4 corners, appropriate spacing along long sides, and on either side of where your RV steps hang out over the mat). In a pinch you can drive stakes or nails directly through the mat, but the grommets will protect the mat from tearing. I usually use large washers on the stakes or nails to secure the grommets and reduce the potential for tearing the mat if the wind kicks up. It also gives you a better way to remove them later when the time comes to go home.  Weather permitting, you may want to extend your patio awning and window awnings if you have them. The awnings will help keep your RV cooler and the patio awning will provide shelter from sun and light rain and further define a pleasant outdoor living area.  Never open your awnings when there are high winds and avoid using them during heavy precipitation.  If it starts to rain after you've set up, lower one corner of the awning to encourage run-off and avoid puddling.

Welcome mats are useful for both tent and RV camping.  Having a place to wipe your feet before entering your abode will reduce tracking dirt inside.  An old burlap bag makes an excellent door mat.  The rough texture is good at scraping sand, dirt, snow, and mud off your shoes.  It folds up small so it takes up little room in transit and you can easily wash it out when it gets dirty.  Usually all you have to do his hose it off and hang it up to dry.

You may then want to proceed with preparing your campfire and any optional camping equipment you have brought along as describe above for tent camping.

RV Camping "off-grid". Camping without hookups, also known as boondocking, dry camping, or being off-grid differs from camping with hookups in that you have to rely on the self-contained features of your RV and you probably won't have a graded parking area. The initial steps are basically the same as for camping with hookups. That is, locate your site and park, level, and stabilize your unit. If you are truly boondocking in a remote area, there will not be designated camp sites and you will have to select an appropriate place to camp. I recommend searching first for areas that have been previously used. That way you avoid unnecessary damage to the environment and save yourself some work setting up your camp. You may also take advantage of the effort someone else has already gone to to find the most level place to park and will probably have already discovered any unseen obstacles and found a way around them. Parking under trees is appealing, especially in warm weather, but if it is now or gets windy, broken and falling branches may seriously damaged the roof of your RV and birds may roost above your unit and make unpleasant deposits on it and you! Since you have no water, electric, or sewer hookups, at this point you need only turn on your water pump and verify you have water at your fixtures and start your water heater. Then check the fridge, stove, and furnace or A/C. To run the A/C you will need to start the generator. Let it warm up for 5 minutes or so before starting the A/C. If the generator shuts off or gets shut off while the A/C is running, wait at least 5 minutes for the "head pressure" in the compressor to bleed off before restarting the A/C to avoid damage to the A/C and reduce stress on the genset. Now proceed to set up the rest of your camp as described above for tent camping. I have seen some campers in remote locations connect a garden hose to special cap on their gray water tanks to allow gray water to be drained some distance away from their vehicles. In most places this practice is forbidden or even illegal and should be avoided. It might be permitted in some very dry desert situations. Care must always be taken to route the hose far away from ANY vehicle or equipment and where the water won't run back into any area where there is a vehicle, people, or equipment. I have seen people stick the end of the hose into a hole in the ground, but remember, something had to make the hole and is probably still living down there! Stuffing a hose into it might stir up a rattlesnake and that could spoil your whole day! At the least you will be creating an unpleasant hazard for the occupants and may even drown them! Your holding tanks are designed and intended for holding waste water. Except in very unusual circumstances you should use them. NEVER, EVER drain black water onto or into the ground. It MUST properly disposed of in an appropriate dump station.

OHV Considerations. If you are on an OHV outing, you will want to unload your OHVs and prepare them for use. Top off fuel tanks, lubricate cables and drive chains, check all lights, check tire pressure. Do a quick check for any loose fasteners. Better to spend a few minutes tightening screws now than losing parts on the trail! You may find it helpful to rope off or mark off a parking area for your OHVs near your RV or trailer so you'll have a convenient place to put them to park and service them again when you return from your ride. I have an awning on my enclosed motorcycle trailer I like to park my bikes under. It defines my parking space and helps protect the seats and plastic components from the sun and will keep off any unwanted moisture, like rain, snow, or dew. Most OHV seats are a dark color and can get very hot if left in the sun. If you can't park in the shade, you may want to throw a tarp or at least a towel over the seat.  If its breezy out you may need to tie it down to keep it from blowing off.  Unpack your riding gear and inspect and organize it so it is easy to put on when you're ready to ride. Fill your canteens or hydration packs. Be considerate of fellow campers. Push your OHVs some distance away from other campers before starting them early in the morning and never "hot dog" or show off in or near camp. Ride slowly in and out of camp to prevent stirring up dust that will annoy other campers and foul your own outdoor gear and equipment. Dust seldom enhances the view and is not a very desirable condiment for hamburgers, steaks, or any meal and never enhances breathing! When leaving your OHVs outside overnight, be sure to secure them with chains or cables and locks. Personally I have never had any problems or seen any among my fellow riders, but we all pretty much lock up our rides at night and it is always better to be safe than sorry. There was one time when anti-OHV folks sabotaged some of our bikes while we were performing volunteer trail maintenance with the U.S. Forest Service, so it is always a good idea to secure them where someone can keep an eye on them.

Winter Camping. Setting up a winter camp requires some special consideration. You may find it helpful to shovel the snow off your site and from around your picnic area before parking. Even finding the proper parking area in a developed campground or locating a safe parking place while boondocking can be made more difficult when the ground is covered with snow. If you are using hookups, you will need to bring heat tape to prevent your hose and the campground faucet from freezing. It is a good idea to get out and walk the space and look for obstacles or holes that may be hidden in the snow and could cause damage to your vehicle or cause you to get stuck before you enter the site. If you are tent camping in the winter you may need to clear away the snow to create a smooth and solid place to set up your tent. Tent pegs may not hold well in snow so you'll need to be able drive them into the ground (which may be frozen!) or devise an alternate form of anchor you can bury in the snow. I carry some large nails (about 10"-12" long) to use in hard or frozen ground. They are sturdier and easier to drive than regular tent pegs. You may also face dangers from accumulated snow falling from overhead branches so it is not a good idea to set up your tent under branches where snow could accumulate. Heat rising from campfires, camp stoves, and even your tent or RV or any little breeze that happens to come along can also cause overhead snow to melt and fall into the fire or stove, so seek an open spot for your campfire or using your stove.

Now, have fun!