Setting Up Camp

How you go about setting up camp will depend on several factors, mostly what kind of RV you have, if any, and where and when you are camping. Other factors include weather, terrain, what kind of optional equipment you have and how many people you have to help you and to keep track of. It will make a difference whether you are group camping with other people or camping solo. Camping and RVing are great family activities. There will be many benefits to sharing responsibilities for setting up camp with other family members, including children. One major advantage is they will feel more a part of the excursion if they are involved. They will also have the opportunity to learn responsibility and gain valuable camping and survival skills. On top of that, setting up camp will be a lot easier and go a lot faster when tasks are divided among several campers instead of all falling on one person. Admittedly, teaching children will initially take more time than doing it yourself, but the investment will pay great dividends in their personal development and eventually will take some of the load off you.  Besides, it is fun to watch them!  While tent camping may mean a lot more setup, just positioning and leveling an RV and getting camp equipment unpacked and set up will take some time. The better and more practiced your routine, the faster it will go. Many campers, especially children, are super anxious to begin the planned recreational activities so it is easy to put off some aspects of setting up your camp. Try not to fall into the trap of rushing off to play without getting setup. You will almost always find your stay more enjoyable if you are organized to start with. Setting up camp can be a fun activity in itself.  Some of us are perfectionists and prefer to do things ourselves. We each like things done in a specific way and often have difficulty delegating tasks to others. True, the first time it may actually take more time to show them what to do than to do it ourselves, but with a little practice and patience, we can give others an opportunity to learn and share in essential tasks, taking off some of the load and getting everyone on to the other fun stuff faster.  Getting everything setup when you arrive leaves you free to enjoy the rest of your stay.  Putting it off until later often introduces extra work and takes extra time.  You might find  yourself trying to do a lot of things in the dark!  Better to be well organized to start with.  I even like to prepare my campfire so all I have to do is light it when I'm ready.

A primary consideration for both RV and tent campsites is finding a level spot to set up. In most established campgrounds this isn't a problem, but it can be a serious issue when boondocking. The closer the spot is to level, the better. RVs need to be level for comfort and so the refrigerator will work properly. Tent sites need to be level so you don't roll or slide down the hill while you're sleeping. If you MUST set up in a location that isn't level, try to orient your RV so the front wheels are down hill. That way it is easier to drive up on leveling blocks or, if you're lucky enough to have hydraulic levelers, they won't lift your back wheels off the ground. The back wheels are usually where your parking brakes are and lifting them off the ground lets the RV roll. If you can't level your RV, try to orient it so your feet will be downhill when you're sleeping. If you have to set up your tent on an sloping side, orient it so your feet will be downhill. If you lie across the hill you will roll. If your head is downhill, stomach bile will creep back up your throat during the night and that is definitely not a good way to get night's sleep.  Dinner doesn't taste so good that second or third time around!  Stomach acid creeping up in your throat will also give you a sore throat. 

Motorhomes are about the easiest to setup in camp. Often all you have to do is pull into your assigned space and, if you're in a campground with hookups, connect your water, power and sewer. You probably won't need to hook up the sewer hose until you are ready to dump you tanks.  Setting up right away leaves it out in the sun longer causing it to deteriorate faster and it may be a trip hazard or might be damaged if someone steps on it.  You won't need it until the black water tank is at least 1/2 to 2/3 full. If the space isn't level you may have to do some leveling and you will want to activate any stabilizing system you may be using. Automatic levelers make leveling and stabilizing really easy. Automatic levelers usually work in two stages. When you first activate them, the leveling jacks swing down. This allows you to place "jack boots" under the jacks to spread the load and keep them from sinking into softer surfaces. The second stage senses the position of the RV and lowers each jack as necessary until the RV is level. If you have a manual leveling system you will have to operate each jack as needed until the RV is level.

Trailers may need to be disconnected from the tow vehicle to be leveled and stabilized. Other than that, setting them up is very much like setting up a motorhome. Sometimes a space may be too short for your tow vehicle to remain connected to the trailer and you'll have to park beside the trailer or in another designated location. Even if there is enough room, you may need to disconnect in order to be able to adjust the height of the front of the trailer in order to level it.  You can usually achieve front to back leveling raising or lowering the tongue jack.. Side to side discrepancies will required the use of jacks or leveling blocks.

Once you have parked, leveled, and stabilized your motorhome or trailer, connect to park facilities (if available), extend your awning(s), and roll out and stake down your awning mat. If you plan to use your own picnic table or BBQ, get it out and set it up. You will probably want to close all the curtains, shades, or drapes both for privacy and temperature control. Closing window coverings keeps the interior cooler in summer and warmer in winter.  Start your water heater and make sure your refrigerator is working. If the weather is cool, start your furnace. If it is hot, start your generator and turn on your air conditioning. Unload fire wood and stack it somewhere convenient to your fire pit, but at a safe distance so it won't be ignited by sparks or blowing embers.  If you plan to watch over the air TV, raise the antenna and aim it in the direction of the station.  If you use a satellite system, align your dish.   If you weren't traveling with the water heater on, turn it on now.

Tent Camping. We'll start with the basics. Many aspects of tent camping will apply to camping in an RV as well. First, locate your camp site. If you're in a developed campground, your site will be assigned at check-in time. Sites are usually identified by numbered posts or signs where you park. Most sites in developed campgrounds will include a picnic table and fire pit. Park your vehicle, taking care to stay within the bounds of your assigned paved or graveled parking area. Do NOT drive over grass or landscaping unless instructed to do so by your camp host and NEVER allow your vehicle to intrude into another camp site or public area or hang over into the roadway or pathways. Inspect your site and decided where to put your tent. Ideally it should be upwind and uphill from the fire pit and from any nearby toilet facilities. An appropriate "pad" is usually provided in developed campgrounds -- a fairly level area cleared of major debris.  Usually it will be a nice grassy spot.  When in remote locations you'll have to identify and clear your own pad.  Unload your tent and other major components, such as ice chests and stoves. Survey your chosen or assigned site to determine how to make the best use of available features and improvements. Your options may be limited when you are in a developed campground but when camping in a primitive site you may be able to design your own camp layout. Find a safe place for your fire pit and try to place it downwind of your tent and your vehicles if possible. In a developed campground, set up your tent upwind from the permanent fire pit. I would set up my camp kitchen near the fire and close to any sources of water if I can. Choose a level spot within your designated site, clear of rocks, twigs, and other debris to set up your tent. Make sure you have enough overhead clearance if you choose a spot under trees. Lay out a ground cloth if you are going to use one beneath your tent. Ground cloths help protect tent floors from dirt, punctures and ground moisture. Tarps are usually sturdier than the thin fabric of tent floors. Just be careful that your ground cloth does not extend beyond the edges of your tent. If it does, it will collect and funnel any moisture (rain, dew, melted snow) under your tent! Personally, I like to use a ground cloth inside my tent too. That way I am sure my sleeping bags will be protected against ground moisture but it doesn't protect the tent floor from stuff on the ground the way one beneath the tent will. Using both gives maximum protection against unwanted moisture from the ground reaching your sleeping bag and spoiling your night's sleep as well as protecting the tent floor. Roll out the tent and stake down the corners. Then erect the poles according to the manufacturer's instructions. If you can set up the poles without staking down the corners, do so. Then crawl into your tent, roll out your sleeping bag, and make sure there aren't any sticks or stones beneath you. It is a lot easier to move the tent and clear the obstacles before you stake it down. Weather permitting, open windows and/or doors to allow the tent to air out. It will probably be a little musty from being in storage since your last trip. Set up your air mattresses or roll out your sleeping pads or install foam floor tiles if you're using them, then roll out your sleeping bags on top of them. Rolling out your sleeping bags in advance allows the compressed filling to expand and restore "loft" and insulation before you need it. If they have been rolled up for a long time, it might be a good idea to hang them outside where the breeze can help freshen and fluff them up. It may also help "air out" any musty odors that may have accumulated in storage. Hopefully you can leave room in your tent to store other items and for undressing and dressing. If you are using a small pup or pop-up tent, there may only be room for your sleeping bags and any other gear will have to be stored elsewhere. In good weather you may be able to leave it outside, but if the weather is bad or if you suspect your gear may be subject to theft or tampering, cover it with a tarp or put it back in your vehicle. I like to use a tent sized for one more person than will be occupying it so we have extra room for dressing and undressing and for gear.

Next, set up your camp kitchen. You want this to be safe, convenient, and easy to use. It should be downwind from your tent and your vehicles. You may want to use one end of the site picnic table (if available) as a convenient place to put your stove, ice chest, and water jugs. Lacking a table you might use the tailgate or trunk of your vehicle. You should keep your non-perishable foodstuffs in plastic tubs that can be easily stored back in your vehicle along with coolers for perishables when you're done with meals to prevent animals from getting into them. Even metal coolers aren't enough to stop bears from helping themselves to your goodies. Old-timers sometimes hang their provisions high in a tree to keep them safe, but putting them back in your vehicle is much easier, although bears have a been known to break into vehicles in search of food. There are portable camp kitchen support systems that can also be used if you have room to transport them. They usually fold up into a compact bundle and are made of aluminum so they are light weight and easy to transport and relieve your dependence on having a picnic table available when you arrive. These stands often include a place for your camp stove, racks for utensils and condiments, some (usually limited) counter space, sometimes a portable sink, and maybe even a spot for your ice chest. Set up and check your camp lanterns. If you have battery powered lanterns you need only verify battery and bulb condition. For gas-powered lanterns, you will need to check the fuel level and the condition of the mantles. Be careful fueling liquid gas lanterns. Use a funnel and stay far away from any open flames, including the pilot lights on your water heater and fridge! Mantles in gas lanterns, once installed, are made of ash and are very fragile and easily damaged in transport so bring plenty of spares. If the mantle is damaged, replace it before it gets dark. Also be sure to make sure you have a trash can or trash bag convenient to your cooking area. I sometimes bring along a portable sink when tent camping. It is made of plastic and has a built in reservoir and pump for the water. It isn't large enough for doing dishes, but it is great for personal hygiene, such as brushing your teeth, shaving, and washing your hands and face.

If you are tent camping in a primitive area without any restrooms you'll need to choose an area for a latrine. For a short stay you may just dig individual holes as needed but if you're going to be there for several days or have a bunch of people in your group, you might want to dig a trench latrine for added convenience. Make sure all latrines are downwind from your camp site and at least 200' away from any lake, stream, pond, spring, or well.

Set up your campfire. If it is cold, you may want to get the campfire going sooner rather than later so you have a place to warm up during other camp chores, but for ideal camping weather you probably won't need it until evening, long after everything else is ready to go. Even then, I like to set mine up when I set up camp so all  I have to do is light it when I'm ready to use it.  If you are in a developed or even a previously used primitive campground, there will probably be an existing fire pit. If you are in a remote area, you may have to build your own fire ring or use a portable fire pit. In any case, you'll want to get your fire set up and ready to light before it gets dark so it will be ready to just light when you need it most. Unload your firewood and stack it neatly where it will be convenient to use by safe from sparks.   Clean out and repair rock fire rings, then set up your fire for later lighting.  See my previous post on Campfire Safety for additional tips on campfires.

Set up optional camp equipment. You may have camp chairs, a dining fly to shade your picnic table and protect it from rain and bird droppings, and games or recreational equipment to be unpacked and set up.  If your activities include OHVs or other motorized toys you will want to get them unloaded and prepared for use.   If there is a likelihood of bad weather, cover outside equipment with tarps and secure them so they won't blow away.   If the weather is TOO bad, consider postponing getting things out until it clears up a bit.   If you're using a Sun Shower, fill the bag and hang it or lay it out in the sun to heat. If you have an awning mat, roll it out and stake it down so it doesn't blow away if the wind kicks up.

If you are RV camping in a remote or primitive area, try to use a previously used camp site. This will avoid unnecessary environmental damage and will make setting up your camp easier for you, especially if there is an existing fire pit. Sometimes you can see where other RVs have been parked and this may save you time and effort locating an appropriately level spot.  Most group camps are set up around a central fire pit, so locating the fire pit may help you identify potential camp sites.  Then follow the same procedures as you would in a developed campground (except you won't have any hookups), once again taking care not to encroach on any neighboring campers. If you must set up in a pristine area, do your best to minimize the footprint you leave and take advantage of level areas and any natural features that may provide protection from wind or rain. Avoid camping in depressions or dry washes, especially if there is any chance of rain. Even if the rain is many miles away, flash floods can arrive with surprising speed and force in a previously dry creek bed or wash and quickly inundate low lying areas.

RV Camping with hookups. Setting up camp with your RV is a mostly matter of locating your assigned space, properly parking and leveling your vehicle, and connecting to the camp ground hook ups. Some campgrounds don't offer full hookups so you will have to adapt to what is available and hook up what you can. Always keep all of your vehicles on the paved or graveled parking areas unless otherwise instructed by the campground host. Once you have parked your vehicle, proceed to block it securely and stabilize or level it. Then connect shore power, water lines, and sewer hoses. It is a good idea to carry a volt-meter with you to check voltage at camp sites. Low or high voltage can damage your converter and any electronic equipment you may have on board. It is also surprising how often you may find sites that are mis-wired.  Sometimes extension cords are mis-wired also.  I once had a brand new heavy duty extension cord that was cross wired, so be sure to test your cords as well as the receptacles.  There is a simple, inexpensive device you can plug into any standard 15 or 20 amp 120 volt outlet to confirm the wiring is correct. They are available at some RV stores and in hardware stores and home centers. A combination of lights indicate the status of the outlet and can warn you of wiring errors before they can damage your RV's electrical system or equipment. If the voltage is low or high (below 110 volts or over 130 volts)or the receptacle is mis-wired, DO NOT plug your RV into the camp receptacles. Report the problem to the campground manager. Connect your fresh water hose (use only a white, potable water hose -- ordinary garden hoses will give your water a plastic taste) to the faucet at your campsite. Make sure you are using YOUR faucet, and not one intended for a neighboring site. Sometimes hydrants are placed between sites and shared by more than one site. Use an inline pressure regulator to protect your RV plumbing from excessive city water pressure. Water pressure can vary significantly from place to place and even from time to time during the day and you want to be sure you are protected from unexpected surges that might rupture lines or damage faucet seals inside your RV. I like to put mine between the faucet and the hose so it protects the hose as well as the RV plumbing. Connect your sewer line. If your RV has separate dump valves for the gray water and black water tanks, connect the sewer line to the gray water tank and to the dump pipe and then open the gray water valve completely. If you have a single dump port, connect the hose from that dump port to the dump pipe and then open ONLY your gray water dump valve. You need to leave the black water valve closed to let the black water tank fill at least half full before dumping it to prevent the accumulation of solid wastes that are left behind when liquids quickly drain off if the valve is left open. Some people recommend letting the gray water tank also fill before dumping it, but that usually isn't necessary. Some commercial campgrounds offer extra-cost cable TV and telephone hook ups. If your RV is so-equipped and the campground offers these service, connect the cable TV and Phone lines. Make sure all your electrical lines and hoses are flat on the ground or mark them with bright ribbons so passersby won't trip over them, which could disconnect them or cause someone to be injured. Many campgrounds these days offer wifi Internet service. You won't need a physical connection, but you will need to get the login information from the campground host to be able to use your laptop in your RV. You should try out your Internet connection so you can seek assistance from the host before you really need access if you have any problems. Now turn on the faucet and verify that you have water at all fixtures inside your RV. Make sure your main propane valve is opened. Start your water heater. Most modern heaters have an electronic ignition that only requires you to turn on the switch at the control panel. Older units may require you to light the pilot light. Be sure to carefully follow the lighting instructions on the water heater to avoid injury to you or damage to the water heater. If the weather is cool, start your furnace. Like water heaters, most only require you to turn on a switch and set the thermostat. Some use the thermostat alone, in which case just setting the desired temperature is all that is desired. In hot weather, turn on the roof A/C. If the inside of your RV is warmer than it is outside, air it out before turning on the A/C. Open a few windows to allow cross-ventilation and/or turn on any powered roof vents to evacuate hot air. Remember that hot air rises, so powered or even unpowered roof vents will let the hottest air out the fastest. Check the status of your refrigerator to make sure it is functioning. Light the stove briefly to ensure it is operating correctly. This gives you a chance to diagnose and correct any problems prior to dinner time! It also clears air from the propane lines. If you weren't running the refrigerator in transit (which I normally do), turn on the fridge. If you have a problem with any appliance and do not have the knowledge, skills, or tools to diagnose and correct it, check with the campground manager. Often these folks are able to help you resolve problems themselves or can put you in contact with local mobile RV technicians who can come right to your RV to fix things for you on the spot. If your RV doesn't have a permanent bed, unpack your bedding so it can air out and restore loft to sleeping bags so they'll be ready to crawl into when bedtime rolls around. If the campground offers Internet service either connect a cable to the port on the pedestal or obtain the wifi password from the office.  Wifi is more common than hardwired Internet in campgrounds.

You may now want to roll out your awning mat and open your awning. Awning mats help catch dirt, mud, sand and debris before it gets tracked into you RV and helps define a pleasant patio sitting area. Even if you don't have a full size patio mat, even a small welcome mat outside your rig will help keep dirt outside. If the mat is on gravel or grass you can stake it down with spike-type tent stakes to keep breezes from attempting to relocate it. When camping on asphalt, I use a Hilti style rim-fire nail gun to literally nail the mat down. In either case, you will want to have prepared your mat by installing grommets at appropriate locations (all 4 corners, appropriate spacing along long sides, and on either side of where your RV steps hang out over the mat). In a pinch you can drive stakes or nails directly through the mat, but the grommets will protect the mat from tearing. I usually use large washers on the stakes or nails to secure the grommets and reduce the potential for tearing the mat if the wind kicks up. It also gives you a better way to remove them later when the time comes to go home.  Weather permitting, you may want to extend your patio awning and window awnings if you have them. The awnings will help keep your RV cooler and the patio awning will provide shelter from sun and light rain and further define a pleasant outdoor living area.  Never open your awnings when there are high winds and avoid using them during heavy precipitation.  If it starts to rain after you've set up, lower one corner of the awning to encourage run-off and avoid puddling.

Welcome mats are useful for both tent and RV camping.  Having a place to wipe your feet before entering your abode will reduce tracking dirt inside.  An old burlap bag makes an excellent door mat.  The rough texture is good at scraping sand, dirt, snow, and mud off your shoes.  It folds up small so it takes up little room in transit and you can easily wash it out when it gets dirty.  Usually all you have to do his hose it off and hang it up to dry.

You may then want to proceed with preparing your campfire and any optional camping equipment you have brought along as describe above for tent camping.

RV Camping "off-grid". Camping without hookups, also known as boondocking, dry camping, or being off-grid differs from camping with hookups in that you have to rely on the self-contained features of your RV and you probably won't have a graded parking area. The initial steps are basically the same as for camping with hookups. That is, locate your site and park, level, and stabilize your unit. If you are truly boondocking in a remote area, there will not be designated camp sites and you will have to select an appropriate place to camp. I recommend searching first for areas that have been previously used. That way you avoid unnecessary damage to the environment and save yourself some work setting up your camp. You may also take advantage of the effort someone else has already gone to to find the most level place to park and will probably have already discovered any unseen obstacles and found a way around them. Parking under trees is appealing, especially in warm weather, but if it is now or gets windy, broken and falling branches may seriously damaged the roof of your RV and birds may roost above your unit and make unpleasant deposits on it and you! Since you have no water, electric, or sewer hookups, at this point you need only turn on your water pump and verify you have water at your fixtures and start your water heater. Then check the fridge, stove, and furnace or A/C. To run the A/C you will need to start the generator. Let it warm up for 5 minutes or so before starting the A/C. If the generator shuts off or gets shut off while the A/C is running, wait at least 5 minutes for the "head pressure" in the compressor to bleed off before restarting the A/C to avoid damage to the A/C and reduce stress on the genset. Now proceed to set up the rest of your camp as described above for tent camping. I have seen some campers in remote locations connect a garden hose to special cap on their gray water tanks to allow gray water to be drained some distance away from their vehicles. In most places this practice is forbidden or even illegal and should be avoided. It might be permitted in some very dry desert situations. Care must always be taken to route the hose far away from ANY vehicle or equipment and where the water won't run back into any area where there is a vehicle, people, or equipment. I have seen people stick the end of the hose into a hole in the ground, but remember, something had to make the hole and is probably still living down there! Stuffing a hose into it might stir up a rattlesnake and that could spoil your whole day! At the least you will be creating an unpleasant hazard for the occupants and may even drown them! Your holding tanks are designed and intended for holding waste water. Except in very unusual circumstances you should use them. NEVER, EVER drain black water onto or into the ground. It MUST properly disposed of in an appropriate dump station.

OHV Considerations. If you are on an OHV outing, you will want to unload your OHVs and prepare them for use. Top off fuel tanks, lubricate cables and drive chains, check all lights, check tire pressure. Do a quick check for any loose fasteners. Better to spend a few minutes tightening screws now than losing parts on the trail! You may find it helpful to rope off or mark off a parking area for your OHVs near your RV or trailer so you'll have a convenient place to put them to park and service them again when you return from your ride. I have an awning on my enclosed motorcycle trailer I like to park my bikes under. It defines my parking space and helps protect the seats and plastic components from the sun and will keep off any unwanted moisture, like rain, snow, or dew. Most OHV seats are a dark color and can get very hot if left in the sun. If you can't park in the shade, you may want to throw a tarp or at least a towel over the seat.  If its breezy out you may need to tie it down to keep it from blowing off.  Unpack your riding gear and inspect and organize it so it is easy to put on when you're ready to ride. Fill your canteens or hydration packs. Be considerate of fellow campers. Push your OHVs some distance away from other campers before starting them early in the morning and never "hot dog" or show off in or near camp. Ride slowly in and out of camp to prevent stirring up dust that will annoy other campers and foul your own outdoor gear and equipment. Dust seldom enhances the view and is not a very desirable condiment for hamburgers, steaks, or any meal and never enhances breathing! When leaving your OHVs outside overnight, be sure to secure them with chains or cables and locks. Personally I have never had any problems or seen any among my fellow riders, but we all pretty much lock up our rides at night and it is always better to be safe than sorry. There was one time when anti-OHV folks sabotaged some of our bikes while we were performing volunteer trail maintenance with the U.S. Forest Service, so it is always a good idea to secure them where someone can keep an eye on them.

Winter Camping. Setting up a winter camp requires some special consideration. You may find it helpful to shovel the snow off your site and from around your picnic area before parking. Even finding the proper parking area in a developed campground or locating a safe parking place while boondocking can be made more difficult when the ground is covered with snow. If you are using hookups, you will need to bring heat tape to prevent your hose and the campground faucet from freezing. It is a good idea to get out and walk the space and look for obstacles or holes that may be hidden in the snow and could cause damage to your vehicle or cause you to get stuck before you enter the site. If you are tent camping in the winter you may need to clear away the snow to create a smooth and solid place to set up your tent. Tent pegs may not hold well in snow so you'll need to be able drive them into the ground (which may be frozen!) or devise an alternate form of anchor you can bury in the snow. I carry some large nails (about 10"-12" long) to use in hard or frozen ground. They are sturdier and easier to drive than regular tent pegs. You may also face dangers from accumulated snow falling from overhead branches so it is not a good idea to set up your tent under branches where snow could accumulate. Heat rising from campfires, camp stoves, and even your tent or RV or any little breeze that happens to come along can also cause overhead snow to melt and fall into the fire or stove, so seek an open spot for your campfire or using your stove.

Now, have fun!