Updating an Older RV

Perhaps the first question is why would anyone bother to update an older RV?   Given the bargains on late model units in today's slow economy, it might seem to make more sense to upgrade to a newer unit instead of sinking money into an older one.  That may be true, but there may still be valid reasons to update an older unit.   Sometimes it will be less expensive to update an older unit you have already paid for than to upgrade to a newer model.   Upgrades can be done in increments, as time and other resources are available, while upgrading to a newer unit usually requires a single, large expense or a commitment to years of additional payments.  Or maybe you just really like your current unit and would like to make some improvements to make it even more enjoyable.  Owners of classic motorhomes like the front wheel drive GMCs and the early Travcos may take special pride and satisfcation in their machines.  You may have seen conveniences in newer models that you could adapt to yours.  Sometimes newer appliances are also more efficient.  Or maybe you just want to update the appearance.   If you really like your existing RV you may have already customized it with features and accessories that meet your specific needs and it would be time consuming and probably expensive to repeat all the changes if you purchased a newer RV.  At one time I remember seeing offers to install slideouts on older RVs, but I don't know of anyone doing that these days. 

If you are buying your first RV and are on a limited budget, you may be able to pick up an older model for a song.  If it doesn't have any problems you can't deal with, you might save a ton of money and end up with a very unique and enjoyable rig.  A low initial purchase price may give you some extra $ for repairs, upgrades and improvements.

Financial considerations. There are many real estate studies to help us measure the value of improvements to our permanent residences but there are few if any to guide us in making wise investments in updating our RVs.   Updating an RV isn't so much about improving resale value as it is extending its useful lifetime to current owners and increasing the owner's enjoyment and convenience in using it.  If you really like your current RV and are comfortable using it and it doesn't have any major mechanical or structural flaws, you may want to explore your options to make it even more fun and extend its useful lifetime.   But don't expect to reap a big financial return on investments you make in an older unit.  Chances are you'll never recoup what you spend on updates.

Analysis will probably demonstrate that significant updating is unlikely to add enough to the resale value to make it a sound financial investment.   If a unit is in really bad shape a few well chosen, cost-effective repairs may help bring it up to market value, but major renovations and especially upgrades will almost never deliver a good monetary payback. The main payback for updating an older RV is owner satisfaction.   If you like your RV, it may be cheaper to update than to replace it -- without the risk of getting something you'll never like as well.  There may be some simple repairs and renovations that will enhance the resale appeal if not the actual value.  But don't count on making a quick buck or even breaking even on most updates!  Do count on enhancing the convenience and pleasure you get from using your RV.

If the upholstery is getting worn, having it re-done will add years of use and enjoyment and perhaps improve resale appeal even if it adds little to the actual price.  Many fabrics used in older RVs have a very dated look even if they are still in good condition.   Reupholstering the sofa and chairs will go a long way toward improving the interior appearance and extending its usable lifetime and visual appeal. The upholstery in one of my Smuggler trailers was beyond repair.  Fortunately, it was all removable cushions so I was able to simply remove them and take them in to be recovered.  I had them all recovered in a sturdy, Scotchgard protected fabric.  It looked like new inside and the seating and beds were far more comfortable.  I didn't have a particular color (other than being somewhat compatible with the existing carpet) or look I needed so my upholsterer was able to take advantage of closeout prices on a sturdy fabric that helped keep the cost down. If you can sew the new covers  yourself you can save even more.

Slip covers are not often used in RVs, but might provide a quick and inexpensive temporary solution to damaged upholstery in the living area.   Slip-on seat covers might work on the driver and co-pilot seats that often show the most wear and tear.  Plush or fleece covers can also make cold vinyl or leather seats more comfortable in winter months.

Flooring is usually a relatively easy and inexpensive update if you can do it yourself.  If your unit has linoleum or vinyl flooring you may be able to install press-and-place tile directly over the old surface for a quick and fairly inexpensive do-it-yourself upgrade.   If the old flooring is torn or worn through it should be removed and the under layment properly prepared before installing new tile or sheet goods.   A heat gun may be helpful in removing old glued down flooring.   I have used acetone to soften the residual glue and embedded backing so I could scrape it down enough to get a smooth surface.  Always ensure you have adequate ventilation when using solvents and adhesives.  If you are using sheet goods, try to remove the old flooring in one piece so you can use it as a pattern.  If that doesn't work, make a pattern from cardboard or newspaper so you can cut the new flooring exactly the first time.   Press and place tile is easier to work with than sheet goods.   If you cut one wrong you haven't wasted the whole sheet.  Carpeting is a little more difficult to install and may require some specialized tools (like "kickers") to ensure proper installation and fit.  In small, confined areas, like a little camper or trailer or a narrow hallway, you may be able to get away without having to tack the carpet into place. For larger areas and for more secure installations anywhere, use "tackless strips" along the edges or an adhesive over the entire floor to anchor the carpet.  What are the specific advantages of carpet or hard flooring?  Hard flooring is easier to clean which makes it ideal for galley and eating areas.  Carpet is warmer and softer to walk on for bedroom areas or if you just want warmer floors throughout your RV.   Carpet also provides additional insulation to prevent heat loss and reduce road noise.  If you don't have experience cutting carpet, make a pattern from newspaper or cardboard first and then cut the carpet to carefully match your pattern.  Patterns tend to "creep" so check alignment often to be sure your carpet will match your pattern and will fit properly.

A really quick and easy update is changing the bedspread and shams in the bedroom.  If you can make a bed you can easily implement this change yourself.   Select materials that match or complement the existing decor -- unless you also plan to change wallpaper, window treatments, and flooring.

Window treatments are another good candidate for updating.  Compared to some modifications they are relatively easy and inexpensive and done right will improve livability and enjoyment as well as updating the appearance.  Window treatments might include drapes, curtains, shades, or blinds or adding solar film to the windows.  For winter camping, you can use a clear stretch window covering on the outside for extra insulation if your unit doesn't already have dual pane windows.  You can also make inserts of reflective foam or "bubble" insulation to block heat in summer, hold in the heat in winter, control unwanted outside light, and ensure privacy inside.  Replacing any cracked, broken, or missing window panes kind of goes without saying and falls more into the maintenance category than upgrades -- unless you are upgrading from single to dual-pane windows.  Dual pane windows can conserve energy and improve interior comfort, but are a pretty expensive and difficult modification. However, any reasonably competent do-it-yourselfer should be able to handle the task if you can find matching sizes.  You simply remove all the screws securing the window frames, use a putty knife to loosen the "putty tape" that seals the window frame, remove the old window, apply NEW putty tape to the new window, put the new window into place, and re-install the screws.  Ideally you can purchase replacement windows the same size and shape as the old ones.   Otherwise you will have to modify the opening to fit the new windows.  If you have the right tools and know how to use them it is pretty easy to enlarge an existing opening, but very difficult to close one up to use a smaller window.   Upgrading the windows may be a pretty ambitions and expensive task if exact replacement sizes are not available, so beware.   Slight differences in the radius of the rounded corners can create major fit and installation problems resulting in unsightly patching and leaks.

Interior lighting updates are pretty easy and relatively inexpensive.  Replacing faded and inefficient existing lights with newer ones is the easiest, but adding more lights in convenient locations is usually a viable option as well.  Cracked or discolored shades, lenses, or covers can sometimes be replaced to improve existing lights at minimal cost and effort.  You can usually tap into to existing wiring inside the bottom shelf of cabinets if yo want to add new lights.  To add new ceiling lights you may have to "fish" wiring from an existing fixture or add surface "tracks" for the wire.  Automatic closet lights are a nice addition if you don't already have them.   Replacing existing incandescent fixtures with LED models will save battery power.

Closet and cabinet improvements.  Switching closet rods from the old standard bars to rods specially designed for RVs can keep your clothes from ending up on the floor on rough roads.   Adding shelves or organizers can greatly improve the convenience and efficiency of your cabinets.  To keep hangers on ordinary rods, try stuffing a big car wash size sponge on top of the rod over the hangers to keep them from bouncing off.   Replacing missing or damaged doors can sometimes avoid the cost of replacing the cabinets.

Exterior upgrades tend to move toward the high end, but there are a few things you can do without breaking the bank.  Wheel simulators can replace aging, missing or outdated wheel covers for a few hundred dollars and they make a big difference in the appearance.  Full body paint and graphics will really make an older unit look younger, but be prepared to shell out some significant bucks, especially if you want it done right.   Just a restoration of part of the paint (the lower 2') on my 40' Holiday Rambler cost the previous owner about $6000!  Sometimes you can update the paint on faded highlight panels on campers or travel trailers yourself using spray paint.   Small panels or stripes, say up to about a foot in height, are the best candidates.  It is really hard to get even coverage on larger areas with a spray can.  Be sure you prepare the old surface according to the requirements and recommendations for the paint you'll be using.  Then mask off the adjacent areas, and repaint the stripes.  If you aren't already skilled in applying spray paint, practice on a piece of cardboard until you can get a consistently smooth application.  You may have to apply several thin coats.  A common mistake of amateurs is to apply coats that are too thick.  This often causes unsightly runs and will slow drying time, allowing dust or small insects to become embedded in the paint.   If you do get runs you can sometimes gently blot them away and then touch up the spot with fresh spray.  I don't recommend spray can painting of large sections as it is difficult to get even coverage over large areas with a spray can.   But it can be a very cost effective improvement on smaller areas.   If the original finish itself is still in fairly good condition or can be restored, you might be able to upgrade the look with more modern vinyl stripes or graphics or even just replacing faded original graphics.  By the way, you might be surprised how much better your RV will look after just a good detailing.  It may take you a whole weekend to wash and wax an RV or you might have to spend a couple hundred bucks to have it done professionally, but when it has been completed, even a dated paint job will look a lot better when it is bright and shiny.   Faded, cracked, or missing lights and lenses can be easily replaced to add a "like new" touch.  And don't forget the chrome!  Most newer RVs have little "bright metal" trim but older units that do can usually benefit from a good shining.  If the chrome is beginning to pit you may be able to remove much of the rust by rubbing it with a penny or a copper kitchen scrubber.   The copper is soft enough so it doesn't damage the chrome while hard enough to scrape away the rust.  And you can, literally, do it for pennies!  Then polish it with a good metal polish.   I've used "chrome" spray paint fairly successfully to improve the appearance of rusted chrome.   It doesn't really come out looking like chrome but it is a lot nicer than rusty spots!   If the chrome surface is severely damaged, you may be able to remove the parts and have them re-chromed. Re-chroming is an electroplating process and can be somewhat expensive, especially if you don't prep the parts first.   Some accessories, like rear view mirrors are easy to replace and not too pricey.  You may even want to look at power or heated mirrors to add convenience as well as improve appearance. Newer mirror designs may even improve safety by giving you better visibility.   Some mirrors these days have integrated turn signal indicators that help remind you when you use your turn signals and add a touch of warning for nearby drivers.

Exterior lighting can often be upgraded at nominal costs.  You might want to upgrade your standard headlights to Halogen, HID, LED or other high performance lamps or add driving lights or fog lights. The OEM headlights on many older motorhomes were installed with substandard wiring.  Upgrading the wiring and connecting them directly to the battery via relays instead of running them directly from the headlight switch will often improve brightness.   Replacing faded, broken, or missing clearance lights, parking lights, etc will improve safety as well as appearance and might save you a fix-it ticket.  I found a kit to add turning lights to one of my motorhomes.  They were wired into both the parking lights for power and the turn signals to activate the side-facing lights much like those on luxury automobiles.  Unfortunately, I haven't seen any of those around since the 1990s so I don't know if they are still available.  Docking lights are a feature on many large, high-end vehicles and can be added to just about any RV fairly easily.  They usually mount about the middle of each side to illuminate the dark area between headlights and backup lights when backing into a camp site. OEM installations are usually recessed into the wall.  You might get away with installing ordinary driving lights beneath the coach -- if you have sufficient ground clearance.  You may also want to update existing porch lights or add more at convenient locations.  Most RVs come with at least one porch light near the entrance.  Other locations I've found convenient include the front of a trailer to illuminate the tongue area and hitch and near the outside shower.  I also added some really bright flood lights (salvaged from an ambulance) to the rear and the curb side of my motorcycle trailer to facilitate after-dark bike maintenance and illuminate group activities after dark.

Furniture, such as sofas, chairs, and tables can often be replaced to improve the appearance and functionality of your RV.  If your old sofa isn't a sleeper, switching to a sleeper can add room form more guests.  Sometimes you can replace dual chairs with a sofa for even more sleeping room if your family is out growing your present rig.  Dinette cushions can be easily replaced or recovered.

Cabinets and counter tops are usually too expensive to update, but you might try painting or refinishing cabinets for a fresh look.  I would only go after the cabinets if they were really ugly or badly damaged and then probably only in an older unit where any collateral damage wouldn't affect the resale value or appeal.   Damaged or missing doors might be replaceable.  If you can't match your existing doors, perhaps you could replace them all for an updated look. You might be able to use Contact Paper to recover some cabinets and doors.   If you have cabinets that are damaged beyond repair and have to be replaced you might be able to get replacements from a junked RV at a wrecking yard or find new pre-made cabinets at a home center or building supply store.   Measure carefully to be sure they will fit and that you can get them through the RV door!   Make sure you anchor them properly, keeping in mind they will be subjected to much greater stress than they would in a fixed residence.  If counter tops are damaged you will probably need the services of a professional to replace them.   If you do have to replace counter tops you might want to consider upgrading old Formica counters to solid-surface, ceramic tile, or even granite -- if your budget can handle it.  You might be able to pick up a suitable sized piece of granite from remnants from a residential counter top shop fairly cheaply, but you will still need professional equipment and/or help to cut it and finish it to fit your RV and to install it. Replacing damaged Formica is a fairly straightforward task, but because of the precision required for proper fit and clean, smooth joints, you will probably want to have it professionally done. Sometimes you can adapt a pre-made residential countertop from a home center if you can find one the right size.  Faded Formica can be difficult to restore but I've had good luck using the same SC-1 detail spray I use on my dirt bikes.

Appliances can be updated to replace damaged, defective, unattractive, or inefficient models in older units.   Or you might just want to have some of the features of newer models.   But, unless you have ready access to used units in good condition, this can be an expensive upgrade, especially if you try to replace them all at once.   If your appliances still function properly, consider a good cleaning and perhaps painting before costly replacement.  Be sure to use special appliance paint for best results and appropriate durability.  Stoves, ovens, range hoods, and painted refrigerators are all candidates for this.  Some refrigerators have a replaceable front panel to change the color or texture.  These panels can sometimes be refinished or covered with Contact Paper or wall paper for a new and fresh look if replacement panels are no longer available.  My dad removed the damaged and dated wallpaper covering from a fridge panel, then cleaned and varnished the underlying plywood panel. The result was a rather spectacular natural wood finish that blended with the rest of the paneled interior!  You may be able to add a roof air conditioner to a unit that didn't have one.  I once got one salvaged from a motorhome in a junkyard for just $100 to install on my enclosed motorcycle trailer. New ones will cost many times that.  Some motorhomes and trailers were pre-wired for air conditioners, making the installation fairly easy.  If yours was not pre-wired you'll have to run 120-volt wiring for the roof A/C and will probably have to add a breaker in the panel for it.  If you are not familiar with electrical wiring it is best to have this done by a professional -- a licensed electrician or a competent RV technician.  Roof A/Cs are usually designed to fit the same 14"x14" opening as a standard roof vent. Before adding a heavy A/C to the roof of your RV, check to see if it will support the load. You may have to remove an existing vent to inspect the supporting structure around the opening. If there is no supporting structure, consult a competent RV technician to see if adequate support can be added to ensure the heavy A/C unit doesn't come crashing down and bring a good part of the roof with it.  Stoves/ovens, water heaters, furnaces, and refrigerators are, of course, also candidates to be upgraded.  Try to find units with the same dimensions as the originals to minimize the amount of structural or cosmetic modifications needed for the change over.  Of course, if one of your goals is a larger fridge or bigger furnace, you will have to modify the surrounding cabinets to accommodate the new units.   Because of technological advances, you may be able to improve performance or capacity within the same footprint as the original models, so shop around.  If you do a lot of winter camping and your current furnace is inadequate, consider adding a second furnace. You will probably have to sacrifice some cabinet space, but it will be well worth it.   Be sure you understand all the installation requirements or hire a professional to assist you.  Improper installation could result in fire or an explosion.  A popular alternative to a second furnace is a catalytic heater. These are especially good for boondocking since they don't have a fan to consume battery power. Other popular appliances in newer units include ice makers and counter-top food processors.  These are not cheap upgrades but they do add convenience and functionality so they are worth considering -- especially if you can get your hands on some good used equipment at a reasonable price.  One way to get used equipment is to buy a "donor" vehicle, a used or salvage motorhome or trailer that has appliances or fixtures you can scavenge for your RV. I've seen fairly late model salvage travel trailers offered for as little as $100.

Entertainment systems.  Many new luxury RVs come with elaborate home theater systems.  Older units can often benefit from the addition of a simple radio/cassette/CD player or a portable TV.   If you have the cabinet space to spare and the budget, you can install permanent entertainment options to fit your wants and needs.   I found it convenient to use a combination DVD/VCR unit in my motorhome.  It saves space and simplifies wiring and switching between sources.  These days you may also need a digital converter if your TV isn't digital ready.  A "batwing" roof antenna usually does a pretty good job of grabbing over-the-air TV signals.  There are digital upgrades that can be installed on older antennas if necessary.   For the ultimate viewing choices, consider a satellite receiver system.  These are fairly expensive and require a monthly fee to the satellite provider. Satellite antenna options include portable models you set on the ground or on a table and permanent, roof-mounted dishes.   The ultimate antenna can even be used on the road and automatically re-aligns itself as you drive, but these are very expensive.  Modern flat screen TVs with built in DVD players are reasonably priced and and be installed just about anywhere.  The are much lighter and used much less electricity than the older CRT models.

A generator is a desirable addition if you don't already have one.  You'll need to find an appropriate place to mount it.   It will have to be in an exterior cabinet that is sealed against fumes entering the coach.  It should also be well insulated to minimize noise levels inside the coach.  You may have to add insulation to achieve satisfactory results.  On travel trailers you may be able to mount it on the tongue or build a rack on the back bumper.  Other considerations include access to the fuel supply and wiring to feed the power to the coach's existing 120-volt system -- or wiring your own system if there is none in place to start with.  The simplest way to connect a generator is to wire it to a receptacle in the power cord storage compartment where you can plug in the existing shore power line.   Buying a used generator in good condition can save you hundreds of dollars. so check out your favorite sources -- local classified ads, ebay, cragislist, and local junk yards.   For even more convenience, consider connecting the generator through an automatic transfer switch.  Then you don't have to plug and unplug the shore power line each time you want to use the generator.  You will want to select a generator whose fuel supply is compatible with the fuel your vehicle already uses.  Options include gasoline, diesel, and propane powered generators. Some diesel powered motorhomes use propane powered generators and they are also a good choice for trailers, which don't have a source of motor fuel.

Automatic transfer switches are a nice addition if you don't already have one.  These devices sense when the generator is running and automatically switch from shore power to generator power.   If you already have a generator but have to plug and unplug your shore power line when using it, adding an automatic transfer switch may be a viable option.  You can expect to pay $100 to $300 for one and, unless you are a qualified electrician, may have to have it professionally installed to ensure safety and proper operation.

Upgrades that add comfort and driving enjoyment may not be readily visible to the average on-looker but are still often worth considering for owner comfort and satisfaction.   Perhaps one of the most frequent changes are suspension improvements.  This could be as simple as replacing worn shock absorbers with better quality units or as complex and expensive as upgrading the entire suspension and adding anti-sway bars.  Just replacing worn-out shocks can significantly improve the ride and handling of older units.  I've seen owners add shock absorbers to travel trailers that didn't have any to reduce how much things get tossed around inside on rough roads and reduce the jerking on the tow vehicle.  When I broke a spring on one of my "Smuggler" trailers, I replaced and upgraded both springs to enhance the load bearing capacity of the suspension.  You should always replace both springs if one breaks to maintain even weight distribution and performance.   Upgrading my springs gave me a little extra ground clearance on desert roads and negotiating in and out of primitive camp sites as well as increased carrying capacity and a better ride.   A major consideration when replacing springs are the dimensions -- the overall length and the width of the leaves and the mounting eye. You may need different sized U-bolts to mount the new springs. It is a very good idea to use new U-bolts anyway, even if the old ones will still fit. The old ones will have been stretched and stressed by torquing and use.  A well advertised option is the addition or air bags to increase weight capacities and stiffen suspension to improve handling.  This can be very effective in many situations but I urge you to use caution.   I have seen airbag installations that resulted in bending the motorhome frame because they altered the weight distribution.  The bags were mounted directly over the rear axle where the frame was the weakest and became the primary load bearing point.  OEM airbag installations often reinforce the frame to avoid this problem.   I had an aeronautical stress engineer evaluate the specifications for the frame on my motorhome and found out with air bags installed a drop of as little as 1.5", such as is often found where driveways meet the street, would be enough to bend the frame!  Sometimes you can have old springs "re-arced" to restore near original performance.  You might also be able to have one or more leafs added to existing springs to give added ride height and load capacity.

Performance enhancements.  Who wouldn't like to pull up hills more easily or maintain highway speeds on grades?  Or get better gas mileage?   Some vehicles lend themselves well to performance upgrades, some do not.  Banks Engineering provides a proprietary "Power Pack" system that can be used on many popular chassis to improve air intake and exhaust performance, usually delivering gains in both performance and fuel economy.   However, increases in performance usually come at the expense of higher fuel consumption and improved mileage usually means reduced performance. The manufacturer's warranty on many newer engines prohibit any modifications and some modifications may seriously reduce engine life expectancy, so be cautious about making any changes to your vehicle's engine.   Improvements in intake and exhaust as well as upgrades in computer chips for modern engines can make significant power and fuel economy gains, but make sure your engine can handle the load and the modifications don't invalidate any warranty.   Calculate the fuel savings to determine the "pay back" time for the cost of performance enhancements to see if they will be economically viable.  Many improvements are so costly you may never get it back in fuel savings unless you drive a lot!

Mechanical upgrades.  Unless you have a major problem with the power train you probably won't want to attempt any significant mechanical upgrades.   If you have engine problems and would like more power you might consider installing a larger engine. Another option is to make internal improvements when rebuilding your engine.  When the Chevrolet 454 engine in my Class A Suncrest began knocking and required a rebuild, we upgraded the pistons and added an "RV" camshaft to improve performance.   I would probably not have made those upgrades if I wasn't already rebuilding the engine.  Sometimes a worn out or defective engine can be replaced with a good used or rebuilt motor.  Upgrading to a larger motor or converting from gas to diesel are often a lot of work and are usually cost prohibitive.   Other things you might consider are adding an overdrive/underdrive unit like Gear-Vendors to give you more options in gear ratio for either higher highway speeds and improved mileage or lower ratios for more pulling power.  Upgrading from drum to disc brakes adds a measure of safety and peace of mind but the task is quite daunting and expensive.    Some home hot-rod modifications like swapping carburetors and intake manifolds might be worth considering, but perform enough due diligence and research to make sure they will be worth the effort and that you will have realistic expectations for the results.   Some engine modifications will invalidate your warranty, if you have one and may cause problems passing emissions test where such tests are required.   Intake and exhaust enhancements, like Banks PowerPack kits, are popular ways to improve performance, if there is a kit available to fit your engine.

Replacing original equipment parts can be problematic on older units.  Exact replacement parts may be hard to find, perhaps even impossible.  You may have some luck and junk yards or on ebay. There are also salvage yards that specialize in RVs and companies that stock old parts so be sure to check the Internet for possible sources. You'll be surprised what you can find among "NOS" -- New Old Stock parts.  When you can't find an exact replacement, you may have to convert to the closest modern equivalent.  Taillight assemblies may have to be totally replaced if you can't find replacements for damaged lenses.  You may be forced to replace missing or broken windows with the closest size you can find.  If you have damaged exterior panels you may have to replace entire sections when you can't match the pattern and texture of the original to achieve a good cosmetic repair. In a pinch, a small area of damage might be covered by a "fake" vent panel.  Choose a standard residential flat furnace wall vent big enough to hide the damage and paint it to match your unit.

Fun stuff!  Fun additions such as awnings, outside BBQs and outside showers can add fun and livability to your RV.  Screen rooms or "add-a-room" enclosures can enhance the utility of your patio awning.   If you frequently engage in activities after dark, you might improve the exterior lighting on your rig.   I added a bright white light salvaged from an ambulance to my enclosed motorcycle trailer to make night time maintenance tasks easier.  A matching light on the side of my motorhome illuminated the entire "circle of wagons" for evening group activities.  Some campers like to fly flags on their rigs, either as sign of their patriotic nature or a club or group identifier.  Small flags can be temporarily mounted in brackets mounted to the side of your RV.   Larger flags can be flown from flagpoles.   Mine mounts in a pipe welded to the tongue of my motorcycle trailer.  Portable flagpoles are available with a base you drive one of your tires onto and can fly your favorite flag(s) high above the vehicle roof.  There are fancy LED powered star burst lights you can mount on your flagpole to help guide late arrivals to your camp site at night.   I found a 12-volt powered fan that mounts in the accessory rail on my patio awning to provide a pleasant breeze under the awning.   There are at least two kinds of devices designed to fit into the accessory rail and attach lights, shades, banners, etc. One style is a series of "S" hooks with plastic tabs that slide into the awning rail.   Another has clamps like those on suspenders to clip to the awning and grab banners and shades.

Many of today's RVs have slide outs that greatly expand and improve the living space in camp. It is possible to have a slide out added to some older RVs but it is usually not cost effective.  Count on something on the order of $2000 a foot!  That's right, not $200, but $2000 a foot.  Adding a 14' slide out to an existing RV can cost around $28,000. You'd have to REALLY love your old RV and REALLY want a slide out to justify spending that kind of money.  And unless you are already an engineer and trained RV technician, this kind of upgrade will require professional engineering and installation.  If you really wants a slide out it will probably be less expensive to sell or trade your current RV for one with a slide.   Even with professional installation, adding a slide to an older RV may be problematic since the body and frame wasn't designed to handle the additional stress that slides create and it may be difficult or even impossible to do an adequate retrofit.

Bargain updates.  To maximize the value and minimize the cost, look for bargains on materials and appliances for your updates.   Used or discontinued RV appliances and furniture are often available on ebay and other online selling sites or even from your local RV store at reduced prices.  You may be able to purchase a cheap wrecked vehicle to serve as a donor for appliances and accessories.   Keep an eye on closeouts at your local home center for things you can use in your RV.  Limit your changes to things you can do yourself to eliminate paying premium rates for professional installation services.  If you have an update you really want but don't feel qualified to tackle yourself, shop around for advice and estimates.  Feel free to send me an inquiry.   If I don't already have any useful information,  I'll research it and let you know.

The most cost effective updates are those you can do yourself with minimal materials.  A thorough detailing will take a lot of elbow grease and, to make it easier and do it right, you may have to invest in some specialized cleaners but it may deliver the best return on investment.  You'll feel better using a clean, well kept RV and it will have better sales appeal and resale value.  Along those lines, replacing damaged or discolored vent and A/C covers and clearance lights are also among good things to do.  The "Blue Book" values are based on units in fairly good condition and any damaged vents or lenses will result in a downgraded rating, reducing the curb appeal and the trade-in or potential sales value.

Update and away!