RV Interior Lighting Options

For many years RVs have come with 12-volt incandescent lights to illuminate the interior.  They usually use standard, single-filament automotive bulbs.  As with all incandescent bulbs, they are more efficient at producing heat than light and consume quite a bit of energy.   I've had my coach batteries run down beyond use when someone left a single light on in the bathroom for an afternoon!  Some RVs include a few 120-volt light fixtures that can be used when you are connected to shore power or running your generator.  In some units with massive battery banks and inverter, you may even be able to run 120-volt lights off the inverter.  Personally I think that is highly inefficient and would avoid it. Most RVs come with adequate lighting, but you may want additional lighting for convenience, special use, decoration, or to reduce energy consumption.

As mentioned above, incandescent 12-volt lights have been the standard for many years and are still in use in many new units.  The bulbs are typically ordinary automotive bulbs that are inexpensive and readily available.   If you already have or want to add incandescent lights to your RV, there is no strong reason not to.  There are more energy efficient choices, but you're going to pay more for them initially and the replacement bulbs are going to be more costly and more difficult to find -- but they usually last longer too. Typical RV fixtures use an 1146 automotive bulb that typically sells for under $1.00.  A single, LED kit designed to replace that 1146 bulb sells for up to $10 each, but prices are getting better so keep an eye open for good deals on LED kits.

Florescent lights have long been recommended as more energy efficient alternatives to incandescent lights.  They are usually a bit more expensive and take up more room.  Some people object to the the harsh white light.  But they do use less electricity than incandescent bulbs and do not generate as much heat.  They are most effective for general area lighting, usually as ceiling fixtures, although I have seen them installed vertically on either side of a bathroom mirror to provide effective lighting for shaving and applying makeup.

LED light fixtures are becoming more popular for use in RVs.  They use even less energy than florescent lights and the LEDs last a very long time and are less subject to breakage.   At this time they are still quite a bit more expensive to purchase than the other two options, but lifetime cost may be be lower.   You can buy LED replacements to fit in the sockets of most standard incandescent RV light fixtures.   They are a lot more expensive than ordinary automotive bulbs.   Plan on paying at least $10.00 a pair (compared to $1.00-$2.00 a pair for incandescent bulbs), but they will last for tens of thousands of hours and are not subject to vibration failures that can plague hot filaments in ordinary bulbs so you won't have to replace them as often.  They won't drain your batteries as quickly either, a significant benefit when boondocking.   Make sure you get LEDs with sufficient power for the intended use of the light.   I have found many LEDs from the auto parts store that replace as standard 1146 bulb inadequate for task lights for reading or food prep.  Still, they work well for general illumination and will save a lot of battery power.   There are brighter LEDs available, but they can cost close to $20 each!

Reading lights can be a nice touch if you need localized light for close activities like reading, knitting, hobbies, etc.   If your RV didn't come with reading lights, they can usually be added fairly easily to the bottom of an overhead cabinet above your favorite reading spot.  They are often referred to as "bullet" lights and can usually be easily aimed precisely where you need them -- much like the overhead lights on airliners.  They usually have a built-in switch or you can wire a switch nearby. Most reading lights are incandescent but LED versions may be an option if they are bright enough. Most fluorescent lights are not focused enough to work well as reading lights.

Under cabinet lights in the galley are sometimes a nice addition if you don't already have them. Shadows from cabinets and from your own body often darken the counter top if all you have are the ceiling lights. Under cabinet lights are fairly easy to install.  I would lean toward fluorescent or LED lights for efficiency unless you really need highly concentrated lights for special projects.

Accent lighting is popular on high-end units.  It may take for form of sconces, "rope" or indirect lights along the edges of the ceiling, or walkway lighting to illuminate dark hallways at night.  You can install your own walkway lighting using universal automotive license lights or LEDs.   If you choose to do this, consider using 3-way switches to allow you to turn the lights on and off from both ends of the walkway.  Ordinary single-pole/double-throw (SPDT) 12-volt toggle switches can be wired as 3-way switches.   If you don't know how to do this, check with a qualified electrician.   In one position the switch powers the light, in the other it powers the other switch.  Avoid using a switch with a "center off" option as that position will turn off the lights AND disable the other switch. Walkway lighting should be installed in cabinet walls an inch or two above the floor.   Just as in your fixed residence, sconces are sometimes used as accent lights in RVs.   I personally find they stick out too far in what is often limited space in an RV without slide outs and prefer flat fixtures mounted on the ceiling or under cabinets but you could mount flat fixtures on the wall if necessary.

Walkway lights.   Some RVs have a few walkway lights to illuminate the floor so you can find your way to the bathroom at night without having to turn on overhead lights that might disturb other sleepers.  If yours  doesn't have them, they are usually fairly easy to install near the bottom of cabinets.  Walkway lights are excellent places to use LED bulbs since you don't need bright work area lighting and they could be left on all night without too much risk of running down the batteries.  The fixtures used for walkway lights are often very similar to universal license plate lights, which could be used to add lights where you want them.

Propane lights were once common in truck campers and travel trailers but you don't usually see them in newer units.  They are usually bulkier than 12-volt fixtures so they sometimes get in the way and, of course, they need a supply line from your propane tank, which is much larger and more difficult to install than simple 12-volt wiring.  One advantage they had, at least on cooler nights, was the heat output helped keep the interior warm.   On warmer nights, that was a decided disadvantage. Of course they didn't run your batteries down.  I have often seen older units where the propane lights have been removed.  If you remove a propane light, be sure to cap and seal the gas line properly.  You don't want propane leaking into and accumulating inside your rig.  The odor is very unpleasant and the results could be explosive!  By the way, propane itself is odorless.  The bad smell comes from chemicals added during manufacturing to aid in leak detection.  The bad odor was chosen to ensure people would notice it.  You probably wouldn't object and perhaps not even notice a sweet vanilla or lavendar smell and better smelling gas would probably be mistaken for cologne or air fresheners.   If you have propane lights you can use them instead of 12-volt lights to conserve your RV batteries.  If you're thinking of adding propane lights, your best bet would be to buy a portable propane lantern rather than trying to install one connected to the propane supply in your RV.  Installing the gas line plumbing to accommodate a permanent fixture would probably be difficult, intrusive, and expensive.

Closet lighting is a nice feature of high-end units that can usually be added to any closet fairly easily. Closet lights can have a built-in switch or can be hard-wired to a convenient switch near the door. The most convenient ones have a door-activated switch so the light comes on automatically when you open the door.   If you have closet lights, either factory-installed or add-ons, keep an eye on them. Normal use plus vibration and movement of the coach can cause the switches to need adjustment.  If the switch is out of adjustment the light might not come on when you open the door -- or, worse yet, might not go off when you close the door -- and run your batteries down.  Portable, battery powered "stick on" lights are an easy way to add lighting to closets or cabinets that don't have them.   For longest life, choose those with LEDs rather than incandescent bulbs.  If you have a problem leaving closet lights on and running down your batteries, consider wiring a single 12-volt LED indicator in the line between the switch and the light and installing it so comes on whenever the switch is on. Install it so it is visible on the outside of the closet to remind you the light is on. Single 12-volt LED indicators can be purchased at Radio Shack and other electronics supply stores.

Cabinet lighting is usually only found in exterior cabinets.  General area lighting is usually adequate inside but feel free to add cabinet lighting where ever you need a little extra light to see into the corners.   Exterior cabinet lights usually are automatic so the light comes on when you open the cabinet door. The switch may be one of several styles.  There may be a plunger that is depressed to shut off the light when the door is closed or there may be toggle that is activated during opening and closing.  Another variation, used on doors hinged at the top, is a mercury switch, which consists of a small vial of mercury with electrical contacts.  When the door is opened, the mercury pools to connect the contacts.  When the door is closed, it flows to the other end of the vial, leaving the contacts open.   Lacking a mercury switch or plunger, you could install a manual switch.   I would recommend using a lighted switch so it is obvious when the light is on so you don't close the cabinet and forget to turn it off.  You might be able to buy used mercury or other "gravity" switches at an auto junk yard.   They are often used to activate the light under the hood when the hood is opened.

Typical locations for general interior lighting include the ceiling and under cabinets.  Ceiling lights provide general cabin illumination.  Under-cabinet lights illuminate work spaces like counters, tables, and reading areas.   If you aren't happy with the placement of the lights in your RV, you may be able to move them or add lights where you need them.  The main trick is going to be installing the wiring to provide power and ground.  When adding under-cabinet reading lights you can usually tap into wiring for existing under-cabinet lights.  For ceiling lights you may have to run wires across the surface and conceal them with wire-guides if you can't "snake" wire from an existing fixture to the new one.  Sometimes you can shove a piece of coat-hanger wire up through the opening for the new fixture and use it to fish wire through from an existing location, depending on the construction and type of insulation in your unit.  This won't work if there are rafters, other cross-members, or rigid foam insulation between the new and old fixtures.

Bedroom lighting.   I have not seen many RVs that come with lights that are convenient for turning on or off once you are in bed.  Ceiling lights provide ample illumination but you can't reach them once you are in bed.  Many reading lights are within easy reach when you're in bed but they are awkward to get to when you first enter the darkened bedroom.   In some cases I've installed additional lighting on or under cabinets near the bed where I can reach them without getting out of bed.  Battery powered "tap" lights are perfect for t his.  Another solution is to find a way to install a switch near the bed to control the existing fixture. You might also add some indirect lighting controlled by a switch you can reach from bed to provide a nightlight for safe movement without hurting your eyes.   I have a small light fixture with both white and blue lights we've moved from RV to RV for many years.  The blue lights provide soft "mood" illumination that is convenient for getting ready for bed without being too bright or glaring.  A convenient, but comparatively expensive solution, is remote control lighting where you can control the light using a hand-held "clicker".   There are universal 12-volt remote kits for automotive use that could be adapted.  The one's I've seen run as much as $100.00 and are rather bulky, used mostly for activating power door locks and similar devices, so they don't lend themselves to installation in a thin RV light fixture.   But if you are determined, you may find room in the ceiling above the fixture to make it work.   I found one version on Amazon.com for under $20, making this option a lot more viable but I haven't personally tested it. Remote control lights and fans are becoming a popular feature on high end units where tall ceilings put fixtures out of reach.

Bathroom lighting.  You may want to upgrade the bathroom lighting in many RVs.  While it is probably adequate for many routine tasks, it may not be sufficient for shaving and applying makeup. You may be able to add a pair of lights -- one on each side of the mirror -- to eliminate the shadows resulting from standard overhead lighting.  A small night light might be useful for late night use to avoid the pain and loss of night vision that accompanies turning on the standard lights for nocturnal visits to the john.   A little battery operated LED light, like a "tap" light, would be perfect for this.

Single LEDs can sometimes be installed to provide low, focused, energy efficient lighting for nighttime safety.  Several LEDs mounted near the floor can mark the path to the bathroom -- or to the nearest exit -- a la air liner exit lighting.  You can purchase these cheaply from Radio Shack and other electronic supply stores.  They usually install in a simple 1/4" hole and are easy to wire.  You could hook them up through a standard on-off switch or install an "electric eye" to turn them on at night and off when there is sufficient light for normal activities.  I've also used single LEDs to illuminate navigational equipment that didn't have its own back-lighting and LED-based clearance lights to illuminate the entry step.  It is nice to be able to leave the step light on without worrying about running down the batteries.  The clearance marker lights provide enough light to illuminate the steps without offensive glare into the camp site and could be run for days without depleting the battery.

There are LED replacements for votive candles that provide a soft, romantic illumination.  They are self-contained and battery powered so they required no wiring and won't run down your house batteries.  They can be used alone or will fit perfectly in any votive candle holder.  You can use them effectively where ever you need a little bit of light, such as in the bathroom at night.

Troubleshooting lighting problems.  Fortunately, 12-volt interior lighting is fairly stable.  The most common problems, burned out bulbs, are easy to detect and replace.   A second common problem is a blown fuse.  Next in line are loose connections.  Dead batteries are also all too often to blame.  If just one bulb does not light, it is probably a burned out bulb.  Pull the cover off the light and inspect the bulb.  If it is blackened inside or there are loose pieces of filament inside, it had likely failed.  You can test the bulb in another fixture that you know is working or use an ohm meter to determine if the filament is broken: a good bulb will have measurable resistance, a bad one will have infinite resistance.   If neither bulb in a single 2-bulb fixture lights and the bulbs are good, it is probably a blown fuse or a loose connection.  Always check the ground connections as well as the power leads. Loose grounds are a VERY common problem in RV wiring.   Sometimes the switch may go bad. You'll need a test light to check for a bad switch.  First verify there is power reaching the switch from the RV wiring.   Then test the output side. If your test light doesn't light up when the switch is in the ON position, the switch is bad.   If none of the lights are working, the battery may be dead or disconnected.   Some older units have a manual switch that selects either BATTERY or CITY POWER.  If the switch is in the CITY POWER position and the unit is not connected to shore power or a generator, none of the 12-volt systems, including the lights will work.   Fuses may be located in-line near the fixtures or in a central panel.   You may be able to tell if a fuse is blown by visually inspecting it, but to be sure, use a test light.   If it lights on the LINE side but not the LOAD side, the fuse is bad.

Dash lights.   You probably don't have a lot of control over dash lights, but sometimes there are options.  You may be able to replace the bulbs with colored or dyed bulbs to change the appearance. It usually isn't practical to install additional bulbs in gauges and instruments and attempting to do so could damage them.  I have had some luck installing single colored LEDs wired into the dash lights to illuminate auxiliary instruments that lacked internal lighting.

Portable lighting is always an option.  Battery powered lanterns and flashlights are the safest and easiest to use.  Gas or kerosene lanterns are alternatives, but they both consume oxygen and give off dangerous fumes so you need to use them with caution and be sure to maintain adequate ventilation.   They can be useful to  help warm small spaces since they also give off a considerable amount of heat.   A friend of mine heated his Class B van camper with a Coleman lantern.   Candles lend a romantic atmosphere, but can be a fire hazard. Smoke from candles or kerosene lanterns may soil curtains, upholstery, walls, and ceilings.  The odor from kerosene lanterns may permeate carpets, upholstery, curtains, bedding, and clothing so I avoid using kerosene inside.  You might mitigate this problem by burning scented lamp fuel or liquid paraffin.   Fragrant lamp fuels may be more pleasant than kerosene but the odor will cling to interior components long after the lamp has been extinguished so make sure you choose a fragrance you can live with long after the lamp is out.  Liquid paraffin is sometimes difficult to find and a little pricey, but it burns clean and odor free.

Solar lights are a handy addition for RVers and tent campers.   You need to remember to put them out in the sun to be charged if they are normally kept inside, but you don't have to worry about carrying extra batteries.  I've even gotten cute little solar table lamps at my local dollar store!

Let there be light!