Global Warming/Climate Change and Camping, RVing, and Boating

We are constantly hearing about the problems of global warming (now called climate change) along with strong admonitions to reduce or eliminate the use of fossil fuels to stop it.  As RVers, OHVers, boaters, or even campers, we may even be pressured by environmentalists to totally abandon our favorite pastimes.  The famous Sierra Club at one time had a written manifesto that called for the total elimination of ALL off road activity by the year 2000.  Thankfully, that didn't happen.  One thing it did accomplish was to alientate their own 4 wheel drive members into a completely separate club.

In recent years the common reference has been changed from "global warming"to "climate change".  Don't let that fool you.  One of the reasons was that there was a decided lack of verified scientific readings to support the idea of global warming.  In some cases it was proven that reported data had been falsified in an attempt to support the unsubstantiated global warming agenda of certain groups.  However, there is still a lot of purported evidence for real climate change.  Climate change is not a new phenomena.  Consider the known Ice Ages of the past.

There appears to be two camps when it comes to global warming/climate change:  believers and non-believers.  To be honest I have always been a bit of a skeptic, almost to the point of being grouped with the non-believers.  For one thing, I think it is quite arrogant of us as humans to believe we can overwhelm nature!  There is a certain amount of evidence that is repeatedly touted as proving we are at fault.  However, actual historic evidence shows that periodic global warming is the result of cosmological changes in our solar system and earth's position in it, things we can absolutely do nothing about!  Yes, it appears that global warming is a fact.  And no, human beings have not been definetively proven to be the primary cause of it!

I recently discovered some very interesting independent research that clarifies a lot of things for me.  It acknowledges global warming as a fact.  But is also points out it is a natural phenomenon and shows graphs of regular repetitions of global warming for at least the last 400,000 years, based on geology, ice cores, and tree rings.  Perhaps the most revealing fact I learned was that in every occurrence, including the current one, temperature increased BEFORE CO2 increased!   It would appear from the historical  (and current) evidence that global warming causes an increase in CO2 and not the other way around as frequently and repeatedly claimed in popular media, who wants us to believe WE are increasing CO2 and that is causing global warming.  Since the temperature increase preceded the CO2 increase, that doesn't add up.   In fact, it kind of puts a grand slam on current "greenhouse gas" theories!  So, what does that mean for us?  Maybe we need to gain a greater understanding of the whole "problem" before we implement knee-jerk "solutions" that will very likely be ineffective unless they are based on solid science.  In almost every case, legislative solutions to technical problems have failed miserably.

Given that periodic global warming/climate change is historic fact, we might better spend our time and resources determining how we should respond to it, not flailing about with ineffective attempts to change it that significantly affects global economy and our personal choices!  We can learn from geological records what to expect in sea level changes and from things like tree rings we can learn about weather patterns.  While we may not be able to alter what global warming does to the oceans and the weather we CAN take appropriate actions to protect ourselves as a civilization and a species (and as individuals), against the affects.   We should be looking into what happened in previous global warming periods and devising protocols to ensure our survival and continued safety and comfort.  That might mean abandoning ocean front properties and focusing on promoting crops that can survive temperature changes.

Does any of this mean we should ignore "green"and "clean air" initiatives?  No of course not!  We still have a responsibility to be good stewards over and respect our beautiful planet.   We still need clean air to breathe.  Whether or not we are creating dangerous greenhouse gases we need to behave responsibly and protect all of our natural resources, especially trying to conserve those that are not renewable.  It should give us a greater incentive to look beyond the commonly promoted theories and invest a little more time in digging deeper and exploring all the relevant facts.  Then we should do what we can to promote appropriate social and legal responses that are relevant to the true situation in which we find ourselves instead of blindly following the self-serving mandates of people with personal biases and agendas they want to impose on us.

The use of fossil fuels seems to be at the heart of the global warming problem.  Burning coal and petroleum products to power our civilization produces millions of tons of pollution every year.  Nuclear power is one alternative to fossil fuels.  The fear of how to handle nuclear waste has created a public resistance to nuclear power.  However, I saw a recent report that showed handling of nuclear wastes was extremely safe and yields far less risk to human beings and the environment than the by products of of fossil fuels that we current largely ignore.   Widespread use of nuclear power plants to generate cost effective electricity may well be what we need to make electric vehicles practical.  Another recent study even showed eliminating the use of fossil fuels would actually increase climate change!

The use of renewable energy sources versus fossil fuels definitely makes sense.  It took Mother Nature millions of years to produce the seemingly abundant coal and petroleum products so much of our society relies on.  We can't replace them quickly or easily.  The conditions that created them no longer exist.  Wind, solar, hydroelectric and even tidal power sources should continue to be explored and developed.   Consider this:  virtually ALL the energy we have ultimately came from the sun!  Coal and oil came from ancient vegetation that stored solar energy.  Wind and even hydroelectric power are the result of sunshine.  Even nuclear fuel for our power plants came from exploding stars, fortunately NOT the one we currently depend on for light and energy!

Am I going to get rid of my RV, boat, and OHVs or leave them idle because of global warming?  No, absolutely not!  Am I going to feel guilty about my campfire emitting CO2 into the atmosphere?  Don't think so.  Am I going to use appropriately sized campfires instead of raging bonfires when I go camping?  Of course.  Am I going to keep my RV and OHVs properly tuned and use the most environmentally friendly fuels I can?  You bet!  Am I going to support research, education, and legislation that properly addresses our appropriate response to global warming?  Every chance I get!

Just do it!

Getting Emergency Medical Services (EMS) When You Need It When Camping or Boating

We are so very fortunate to have highly qualified Emergency Medical Services readily available to us most of the time.  However, the further you go off grid in your recreational pursuits, the harder it will be contact them and the longer it will take for them to get to you -- if they can even find you!  One of the most frustrating things I experience as a volunteer firefighter is not having good information about the nature of an incident and where it is.  Our designated coverage area includes many miles of highway, forest, river, and lots of campgrounds.  Fortunately modern cell phones with GPS can sometimes be used to locate a caller and hopefully they are near where help is needed.  I've even seen them used to track lost hikers and guide rescuers right to them!  But I have also seen situations where the GPS we got was far from the site of an accident along the highway.  Callers often have to go some distance to get a signal and not all pieces of electronic equipment are equally accurate.   If your pursuits take you into remote areas and many of our outdoor activities like hiking, camping, OHV riding, horseback riding do, it will be even harder for EMS personnel to reach you or even find you!  In some locations you will find it hard to even get a signal to make that most important 911 call.  It behooves you to know how to contact emergency medical services and how to help them find you!

As a volunteer firefighter and EMR (Emergency Medical Responder) I am acutely aware of the dangers lurking in outdoor recreational activities and the difficulty involved in getting emergency help when needed.  Too often our response is delayed by incomplete or inaccurate information about the situation -- or by how long it takes for someone to finally make the call.  Sometimes delays are unavoidable, e.g., the caller must travel some distance before they get cell service.  But sometimes people just wait too long before reaching out for help.  My advice, is always call sooner rather than later.  First responders would rather go on a dozen calls where they might not even be needed than have someone suffer or even die because they weren't called soon enough.   When participating in outdoor recreational pursuits, especially when going off road or off grid, plan ahead for how you will respond to an emergency if someone becomes sick or injured and needs medical attention.  Know where you will have to go to get cell phone service or obtain other assistance.  In some remote locations you may have to go to a ranger station to get help.  Sometime you can get cell service by going to the top of a hill or driving back closer to the nearest town.  Know where you have to go to get a signal so you don't waste critical time searching for one.  Seconds count in a life-threatening emergency!

Off shore boaters may be able to avail themselves of assistance from the Coast Guard, but sailors on inland waters may have to rely on park rangers and other local emergency response services.  Navigable lakes and rivers are often some distance from the bases from which emergency services operate and not all emergency service departments have boats to respond to marine emergencies.  Boaters often need to return to the dock or shore to meet emergency responders.

Campers, RVers, OHVers, boaters, and other outdoor enthusiasts often find themselves a long way from towns that have Emergency Medical Services.  Unfortunately, the kinds of activities we are often involved in increase the chances that we will need EMS.  Riding OHVs, working around campfires, maneuvering RVs and trailers, operating boats, rock climbing, and even just hiking can expose us to injuries we would not encounter at home.  At home it is pretty easy to dial "911" and get a quick response to get the help we need.  And then the time to reach the Emergency Room is usually pretty quick.  When we are out and about we may not have ready access to cell towers to even make the "911"call and once we do it will probably take some time for EMS resources to reach us, even if we give them good directions to our location.   Then it may take along time to transport the patient to an Emergency Room for treatment.  Thus it behooves us to make sure we know where to go to be able to make a call and how to help EMS find us.  Our rural fire department frequently makes use of Life Flight helicopters because we are 45-60 minutes away from any hospital.  In our area we have an insurance plane called FireMed that covers ambulance services and their premium service covers Life Flight.  You may want to obtain similar insurance in case you need efficient transport to the nearest medical facilities.

Today we all rely heavily on cell phones for basic communication.  The good news is that cell phones often have service in areas where there were never any land lines.  The bad news is that there aren't always cell towers near enough our outdoor activities to get service.Knowing where you have to go to get cell service just might mean the difference between life and death for an injured person.  Alternatives to cell phones might include CB and HAM radios that don't rely on cell towers.  Sometimes you can reach someone on the radio who has access to a telephone and can make that all important 911 call for you.  So, having and knowing how to use personal two-way radios could be a great advantage in an emergency.  CB channel 9 is the emergency channel but it is not as commonly monitored as it once was.  CB channel 13 is the unofficial RV channel.  However, the channel most commonly used by truckers is channel 19 and it has the best antenna efficiency so you might have better luck finding someone there.  You might be able to reach a trucker who is able to call 911 on his cell phone for you.  Be sure to give him the right information:  the nature of the emergency and the location, as correctly and concisely as possible.

Cell phone boosters are available that can extend the area of service for your cell phone, turning weak signals into usable signals.  Unfortunately they can't create a signal where there is none.  Cell phone boosters are kind of pricey, but you might find it worth the investment.  If you have anyone in your group that has any special medical conditions that might require fast emergency response, a cell phone booster might be a good investment.

Unfortunately, we face both higher chances of mishaps and slower EMS response times when we are camping or involved in other outdoor recreational pursuits.   Therefore we must be prepared so we can do our best to care for ill or injured companions and to expedite getting help for them when needed.  We can prepare ourselves to be able to care for sick or injured companions through basic and advanced first aid training, as frequently mentioned in this blog.  But we should also take steps to ensure we can expedite reaching EMS services and helping them to reach us.

There are a few things you can do to be better prepared if you do need to call EMS in a remote location.  First of all, I suggest you keep an eye on your cell phone reception as you approach your campground so you know where to go if you need to make an emergency call.  When boating, check your cell signal as you leave the dock.  Sometimes emergency calls can be made in fringe areas with weak signals, but just to be sure, know where you can get cell coverage when you need it.  Getting up on a hill top can sometimes help as it may get you above obstacles that would block the line-of-sight radio signals from the cell tower but if that isn't enough you should know how far back down the road you need to go to get cell service so you don't waste time searching for a signal, especially if you operate in waters.  Sometimes a cell phone booster in your vehicle and amplify cell signals in outlying areas.  Such systems typically cost several hundred dollars and will only work to boots weak signals, not get you a signal when there is none.  If you REALLY need remote access at all times you might consider a satellite phone, but those are still quite expensive to purchase and to operate.  Boaters may want to consider marine-band radios to expedite requests for emergency services, especially if you operate in waters under Coast Guard jurisdiction.    Land lubbers and boaters on inland waters may benefit from ham radios or even CB radios in some places.

Next, be prepared to provide accurate and concise directions so the 911 or other emergency response operator/dispatcher can tell the EMS team how to find you.   If you are in a developed campground, the name of the campground and your site identification should be sufficient to locate you.  However,  if you are in a dispersed camping area or out on a trail without clear landmarks to aid the EMS teams to find you, give the "911" operator the very best directions and distances you can.  You might be able to get geographic coordinates of your position from your cell phone or GPS and that would be helpful to emergency personnel trying to locate you.  If possible send someone down to an identifiable road or intersection to flag down the EMS vehicles and guide them to your location.  Be sure to give them a good description of your vehicle, tent, or other distinguishing characteristics of your camp site.  When boating always carry appropriate warning devices such as distress flags and flares.  Flares may be good for getting attention but are by nature, short lived.  Distress flags can be displayed throughout an emergency to alert other boaters to your need and guide  potential rescuers to you.

When you call "911" do your best to remain calm.  Think about what you need to tell them:  the nature of the injury or illness, when it happened or started, the age and gender of of the patient, and precise instructions for where you are and how to find you.  Also share any special circumstances, such as pre-existing conditions or physical disabilities your patient may have as that can have implications for responders.  You will probably we worried, frightened, excited, possibly somewhat flummoxed.  The hysterical reports 911 operators sometimes receive can be difficult to understand and can delay getting the response you need.   Try to be as calm and collected as possible so you can help them get you the help you need as quickly as possible.   Be prepared to listen to the instructions you are given by the 911 operator and carry them out exactly as given.  They are trained to provide proper directions for how you can best assist your patient until help arrives and help the EMS team get there as quickly as possible.  Be sure you understand the instructions you receive.  There is the story (fictional I hope!) about a hunter who calls 911 because his hunting buddy is was shot and he thought he was dead.  The 911 operator told him they should first make sure he was dead.  There was a short silence followed by a gun shot, then the hunter replied, Yes, I am sure he is dead!  I'm sure that wasn't what the 911 operator intended!  911 operators can often provide you with important, even life-saving, instructions.  Be prepared to do what you can until emergency services get there.

In some cases it may be beneficial to provide a signal to aid incoming responders.  In the day time that might consists of a brightly colored flag raised to where it can be easily seen from nearby access roads.  Or you might build a signal fire and load it up with green branches or leaves to create a column of smoke.  At night a large signal fire or flashing vehicle lights or flashlights can be helpful to responders who are trying to find you.  If you use a signal, be sure to let the "911" operator know what you are using so they can pass it along to the response team.  Just having someone stand where they can be seen from the road and jumping up and down and waving their arms can help rescuers find you.  Boaters will need to display distress flags or flares.  Aerial flares can be seen from a long distance but are fairly short lived.  Hand held flares can only be seen line of sight but usually burn for several minutes to help approaching responders to identify and locate you.  Displaying a proper distress flag throughout the duration of an emergency should be standard procedure.  Having someone keep an eye out for approaching responders and waving a bright colored flag (or shirt or jacket) to attract attention may be helpful.

Once you have called "911" stay with the patient at the location you gave the operator unless being there puts you and/or your patient in immediate danger.  If you must move, either notify the 911 operator, leave someone to tell EMS where you have gone, or keep your original location in sight.  It is usually best not to try to move an injured person before help arrives unless it is absolutely necessary.  Comply with all instructions you receive from the 911 operator to the best of your ability.

If you frequently visit places with little or no cell phone reception you might want to explore the options for boosting your cell signal.   Cell phone signal boosters are not cheap (several hundred dollars) but it still might be a good investment if you are often outside normal cell range.  If you or anyone in your regular group has been diagnosed with medical conditions that might make getting EMS help quickly a necessity, a cell phone booster may be well worth the cost.  Satellite phones are not dependent on cell towers and, since the transceivers for them are orbiting miles above the earth, they are usually not affected by mountains either.  Satellite phones are, however, still pretty darned expensive.  Phones start around $599 and can go up to thousands of dollars.  Plans start around $70 a month for 70 minutes of talk time.  You probably wouldn't want to use it for casual calls but it could be life saving to have those 70 minutes in a remote location.  Anyone with a high risk medical history or involved in high risk activities in remote locations should seriously consider getting a satellite phone for emergency use. If you have both high risk conditions and are involved in high risk activities you should probably consider a satellite phone as essential!

Another option for high risk situations is to carry a personal locator beacon.  A personal locator beacon, or PLB for short, is a personal electronic transmitting device that is designed to alert potential rescuers to a life-threatening situation in the air, on water or in remote areas.  They typically start a little north of  $200.  Higher priced units have more features.  All PLBs must be registered (free of charge) in the NOAA SARSAT (Search and Rescue Satellite Aided Tracking) database to become active.  Once triggered during an emergency, the unit sends an SOS that alerts rescue teams to your exact location and tells them it is an emergency, likely life-threatening, situation.  PLBs don't require a monthly subscription.  Since you only turn them on when you need to send an SOS the batteries last a long time, up to 5 years.  When batteries need to be replaced the unit must be returned to the manufacturer for replacement.  Batteries should also be replaced after a unit has been activated.  I have heard that most manufacturers will give you a new unit if you have to activate one for a life-saving rescue.  Boaters sometimes use an Emergency position indicating radio beacons (EPIRBs), but they are quite a bit bigger and more expensive than PLBs and are usually only found on larger boats used in off-shore cruises.

Of course another option is for you -- or someone in your group -- to get certified in Emergency Medical procedures.   Even if EMS can reach you fairly quickly, having proper training can be useful until they get there.  Being able to provide appropriate immediate assistance can significantly reduce suffering and minimize complications. Sometimes it is even life saving!  If EMS personnel are far distant or delayed it is even more important for you to have qualified help with you.  Throughout my off road career I have endeavored to maintain first aid and CPR certification and more recently have obtained certification as an Emergency Medical Responder (EMR).  An EMR is the first level of EMS and historically was called first responder.  If you are involved in any kind of outdoor activities where serious injuries may occur you should know how to recognize and treat life threatening bleeding and to be able to identify and splint broken bones.  Those skills could well be life saving!  EMR training does not require the hundred of hours you need to become an EMT or paramedic, but it does give you the skills you need to provide appropriate treatment until a higher level of medical support arrives and that will provide your patients a lot of comfort and may even be life saving.  I have never personally provided life saving treatment to a fellow off roader but I have splinted broken bones and prepared patients for transport and am thankful I have the training to recognize and respond to life threatening situations if necessary.

Get the help you need help when you need it!

Preparing a Boat for Spring Launch

If you are like many boat owners, you took your boat out of the water during the winter months.  Sometimes storage fees are less than moorage fees and a boat can usually be better protected from winter weather "on the hard" than if it is left in the water.  Many kinds of maintenance, repairs, and upgrades are easier perform ''on the hard'' too.  If your boat is left in the water many but not all of the steps below will be applicable.  Boats left in the water may also need to have the hull inspected and perhaps cleaned of unwanted hitchhikers and algae which will require some diving under the boat unless it is hauled out.

The first step is usually unwrapping or uncovering the boat.  Many boats hauled out are shrink wrapped for the winter.  Others may simply be covered with a tarp or a boat cover. Boats left in the water may be protected with a boat cover or a tarp.  In any case the first step in getting a boat to use it to uncover it.  Once the covering is removed inspect the surface for any damage or moisture that may have gotten through or accumulated underneath the covering.  High humidity, often associated with areas where boats are found, can contribute to condensation inside waterproof covers.  Boats covered with a tarp will sometimes get damaged by the tarp rubbing against projecting surfaces.  Mark and note any damages so you can repair them before putting your boat in the water.  If you used a tarp to cover your boat, inspect it for wear and tear and make any needed repairs before putting it in storage so it will be ready to use again next year.  If it is worn or damaged beyond repair, discard it and buy a new one for next year.

Next up is a thorough cleaning.  Even though your boat has been protected from most environmental elements it will still need to be cleaned, inside and out, before you use it.  A good washing is all that is usually needed for the exterior.   A good coat of wax on the clean boat will help keep it looking nicer longer and provide some protection for the gelcoat or paint.    Don't wax the non-skid portions of the deck!  The interior will benefit from sweeping floors, vacuuming cushions, wiping down and sanitizing all hard surfaces, and cleaning cabinets, counters, appliances and plumbing fixtures.  If you see streaks or other signs of leakage on the ceiling or inside of the hull, make note of them so you can mediate the problem before it causes any more damage.  Spring cleaning is sometimes a good opportunity to repaint any areas that need it or you want to change for cosmetic or decorative reasons.  And don't forget the bottom!  Hopefully you cleaned the bottom while it was still damp when you took it out of the water last fall.  Now is a good time to make sure it is clean and check to see if it needs to be repainted.   If the old paint is badly worn or damaged it should definitely be repainted.  Always use a high quality bottom paint for underwater surfaces.  Bottom paint is engineered to help keep the hull clean.  A clean hull is a significant factor in performance, letting the boat to slip through the water uninhibited by junk stuck to the hull and allowing it to respond as best it can to the helm.  Speaking of the helm, don't forget to clean the rudder and lubricate any hinge points or other moving parts.

If you repaint the bottom, be sure to clean and sand it thoroughly and follow the paint manufacturer's recommendations for surface preparation.  If your boat is on a trailer or on stands in a boat yard there will be portions of the hull you cannot access.  For best results you need to lift and reposition the boat so you can prep and paint everything.  If that isn't possible, prep and paint all the areas you have access to.   Use an edge guard to paint as close as possible to the bunk boards or pads.  An old slat from a Venetian blind or a 6" or 8" sheetrock knife makes a pretty good make-shift edge guard to keep paint off the carpet on the bunk board.   Trailered boats often sit slightly differently on the bunk boards each time they are loaded so you may be able to gain at least partial access to the covered areas the next time you pull the boat out of the water.  When you repaint the bottom you should also consider painting the rudder and the propeller with bottom paint.  And don't forget the centerboard on sailboats that have them.

Any motor on a boat will need to be serviced according to the manufacturer's schedule and recommendations.  Typical pre-launch maintenance includes an oil change , checking air and fuel filters. and inspecting, lubricating and adjusting control cables and levers.   Old fuel should be drained and properly disposed of and the tanks filled with new fuel.  If you have trouble starting the engine after storage it will probably require the carburetor to be cleaned.  Old fuel, especially modern fuels with methanol added, deteriorate in just a few months leaving behind nasty deposits that can clog the jets and even gum up the float and foul fuel lines.  The E85 fuel sold for automobiles in many places is NOT recommended for outboard motors.

Anchors and rodes should be inventoried and inspected.  Both should be clean and have no visible signs of damage or excessive wear.  Both should be properly stowed without tangles where they can be easily accessed when needed.  A little surface rust is normal but you may want to clean it off and coat the metal parts with a little bit of oil to minimize them rusting again.

Dock lines and spring lines should also be checked.  Worn or damaged lines should be replaced.   If the ends are fraying, reset them.  Nylon lines can usually be melted to manage lose fibers.  Other lines may require wrapping with string or tape or heat-shrink tubing.  While you're at it, check your fenders, including the ropes that attach them, to be sure they will be suitable for another season of protecting your boat from the dock.  Frayed or damaged lines may fail leaving your boat to bang against the dock or break free and float away.  Remember, if your boat gets loose and causes damage to other boats or even the dock, you can be held financially responsible!

Tools, supplies, and provisions need to inventoried.  Worn. damaged, or missing tools should be replaced.  Used up, clogged, expired or missing supplies also need to be replaced.  Provisions (basic non-perishable food and hygiene supplies and medications and first aid supplies) also need be brought up to date.  Make sure your bilge pumps (electric and/or manual) are working properly.  This is also a good time to make sure everything is stowed properly where you know where it is and can get it when you need it.

If yours is a sailboat you will need to inspect the standing rigging.  That includes masts, booms, spars, stays, and shrouds.  Adjust as necessary and replace any frayed or damaged components.   Make sure all the mounting hardware is secure.   Also unfold and inspect the sails and check all the lines (halyards, sheets on the sails, docking lines, etc).  Check the winches and make sure all the cleats are secure to the deck.  Repair or replace any damaged or missing items.  Don't forget to check things like sail and tiller covers.  Inventory and inspect sail ties.  Repair or replace any damaged sail ties.

All safety items should be inventoried and inspected.  That would include navigation lights, life vests, throwable floation devices, and signaling devices (lights, flares, horns, flags, whistles and "day shapes").  Larger boats may have a dingy or life raft that needs to be inspected to be sure it is serviceable and correctly stocked.

If you have removed any components for winter storage (sails, rudder, cushions, dingy, etc) put them back onboard where they need to be.   For boats with cabins, check the berths to make sure the mattresses and cushions aren't damp or moldy and make sure you have clean, correct bedding on board.

If you have onboard plumbing, inspect all the tanks and visible lines and devices for leaks.  If necessary, sanitize and fill your fresh water tank and make sure waste holding tanks have the proper chemicals.  This applies to porta-pottys as well as permanent facilities.

Spring pre-launch is also a good time to install any new accessories you may want or need.  If the non-skid portions of the deck are worn it might also be a good time to repaint them with a good non-skid paint.  Doing so will make your boat safer and give it a fresh, almost new look.  Be sure to take care of any other damage to the deck or hull.

If your boat is on a trailer, you will want to check the tires and service the wheel bearings.  You will also want to check the wiring and lights and inspect the hitch and safety chains.  Then make sure the boat is properly secured to the trailer before attempting to move it. 

Non-perishable provisions should be inventoried and restocked as necessary.  You will want to wait until each trip to stock perishable supplies.

Ready for launch!

Fiberglass Repairs for RVs and Boats

Many of our RVs and boats have a lot of fiberglass components.  Fiberglass is quite durable, fairly resilient, and not too difficult to repair.  Interestingly enough, fiberglass will often resist impacts that would leave dents in metal components, sparing us some of what could be costly cosmetic repairs.  When fiberglass is damaged though, it takes special treatment to effect proper repairs.  You can get it done a professional body shops but if you are fairly handy you may be able to make many repairs yourself, unless you have an expensive vehicle that warrants the cost of professional repair.  Some big components (like front or rear caps on RVs) are sometimes damaged beyond repair and may have to be completely replaced but cracks and holes in the fiberglass paneling of RVs or fiberglass decks and hulls of boats can often lend themselves to DIY repairs. 

The plastic components of many OHVs don't lend themselves well to being repaired.  Mostly they should be replaced and are usually fairly easy to replace and not TOO expensive.  Side-by-sides however often have larger, more expensive components you might want to try to repair but they too usually have to be replaced to get a like-new appearance.

Fiberglass resin is also used to repair damage to metal body panels on cars and trucks.  It is used about the same way as you would use it on fiberglass.  Before Bondo and similar fiberglass repair materials, body repairmen used lead to fill and smooth welded repairs.  Lead makes a good fairly permanent repair but it requires a lot more time, equipment, and skill than fiberglass resin and presents a certain health risk so it has fallen out of normal use today.

Bondo is probably the best known of the fiberglass repair products.  It is used to repair dents in metal body parts on vehicles as well as on fiberglass.  Bondo is reasonably priced and fairly easy to work with.  It can be used by itself to fill small holes or with fiberglass cloth for larger repairs.  Ambient temperatures need to be above 40F for it to work properly.  When you buy Bondo it usually comes in a can with  plastic top that covers a tube of hardener.  Pay close attention to the instructions for how much hardener to use and how to mix it.  As I recall a general rule is to use about a 1" strip of hardener squeezed from the tube for about a golf-ball sized glob of filler.   If you don't use enough hardener, it will be slow to setup or may never set up; if you use too much, it will harden too quickly, before you can spread it properly.  Don't mix up more material than you can use in just a few minutes or it will harden before you can use it.

Repairs on RVs and above water repairs on boats can usually be done in situ, where ever the unit is normally kept.  Repairs below the waterline will usually require hauling the boat out of the water before repairs can be attempted.  Because of the criticality of repairs below the waterline you will want to take extra care or have them done by a professional.  A mistake in an above water repair could be embarrassing,  unsightly, or even costly.  A poor repair below the waterline could end up sinking your boat!

Doing fiberglass repairs is fairly safe but there are some requirements for personal protective equipment and procedures.   You should always wear a face mask or respirator when working with fiberglass resin and when sanding cured repairs.  Latex or rubber gloves are advised when mixing and using resin and when painting to avoid contaminating and injuring your skin.

Always check for structural damage before beginning repairs.  Many times cosmetic damage is he result of or part of structural damage beneath the surface.  Fiberglass boats usually have a wooden core between two layers of fiberglass that makes up the hull and bulkheads.  This wooden core can be compromised if water leaks in anywhere around hardware that penetrates the fiberglass, weakening and causing it to fail.  Repairing or replace rotted core is a difficult and expensive process but simply patching the fiberglass over a damaged core is a sure recipe for failure!  Impact damage that crushes fiberglass on boat and RVs can often damage structural members inside.  RVs usually have wooden (or sometimes metal) framing, kind of like a house.  If any of these framing member have been damaged you will need to open things enough to repair the structural damage before repairing the skin.

As with most tasks, preparation is a large part of making successful repairs.  When repairing fiberglass you may need to cut away damaged portions so they don't weaken the repair.   Broken, cracked, or otherwise damaged material should be removed so it doesn't weaken the repair.  Often you will want to drill a small hole at the end of crack to prevent it from continuing to extend into previously undamaged material.   It is also essential to thoroughly clean the surfaces around the repair where the Bondo will be applied to blend the patch into the surrounding surface.  Sometimes you may need a backing plate inside the component to be repaired to give a solid base upon which to construct the repair.  Backing plates may be temporary (long enough to make the repair) or permanent (part of the repair).  Check any structural components within the repair and fix any damage before repairing the covering.  For large holes spread a layer of mixed filler, then cover it with a piece of fiberglass cloth cut to fit over the hole.  Then cover the fiberglass with more filler,  tapering it toward the edges. For deep holes or dents you may have to apply multiple layers of patching. Really large holes may require the addition of patch panels.  Repeat as necessary to make it level with the surrounding area.  Eventually you will sand the cured repair until it blends smoothly into the surrounding surface.  I usually do initial shaping using a body file, then #60 sandpaper followed by successively finer grades of sandpaper down to at least #200 or #220 before applying primer.   If you are working with a deep dent it may take several layers of resin and fiberglass to build it back up to where it needs to be.  Be sure the let each layer dry according to the manufacturer's instructions but don't let them over-dry.  You want multiple layers to bond seamlessly with each other.  While it might be tempting to just fill up the hole all at one time that can prevent the bottom part from curing properly, leaving it somewhat soft and weakening the repair.

Once the application has cured (Bondo is usually dry in 10-15 minutes) you will need to file or sand it to remove any imperfections and blend the repair smoothly into the surrounding surfaces.  For best results you should then apply a finishing paste.  It is similar to the material used to build up the patch but is made of finer material to produce a smoother final surface.  Allow the finishing paste to dry and cure according the manufacturer's instructions, then sand it again until everything is really smooth.   The first step is usually using a body file or another coarse file to knock down any high spots.  Once you have things generally level, initial rough sanding may be done with coarse (#60 or #80) sandpaper.  Then used increasingly fine sandpaper (#100, #120, # 150, #220, #200 etc) until it is completely smooth.  Final sanding is often done with #400  or even #600 wet and dry paper.  If you are working with a long stand fiber repair product like Evercoat Kitty Hair and even for heavy Bondo repairs, you will most likely need to initially shape the repair with a body file or wood rasps and files to knock down the high spots before sanding.  I have found it typically takes 2 or 3 applications of Bondo and/or finishing paste to properly fill holes and return the surface to its proper shape.  Be sure to plan for that and allow enough time for multiple applications, with plenty of sanding and shaping between coats.  If you can see or especially if you can feel any edge or discrepancy in the surface of the repair it must be corrected before it is painted or it is going to look really bad.

Next apply a good coat of primer over the repaired area.  This is a step that is often ignored by amateurs, usually yielding poor results.  Primer is designed to bond tightly to the surface and to bond tightly to the finish layer of paint.  Top coats are designed to give a good final appearance and seal the surface but they aren't designed to bond tightly to bare surfaces.  Let the primer dry as needed.  To achieve the smoothest, shiniest results you should sand the primer with #400 wet and dry sandpaper before applying the top coat.  Read the directions on the primer can to see if you need more than one coat.  For best results, sand between each coat.  Some finish coats may claim they can be used without primer and those might work.  However, you will usually get more permanent and better looking results using a real primer first.  If you still see or feel any edges after priming, you may have to go back and redo some of the repair work again to make it smooth so it looks good.  A good repair will be invisible once the final coat is on.

Apply the topcoat according to the manufacturer's instructions.  You may want to apply multiple coats for maximum beauty and performance, possibly sanding with #400 or #600 wet and dry sandpaper between coats.  Do not sand after the final top coat!  

Inspect your repairs after the final topcoat has dried.  Sometimes you will find minor flaws in your repair that don't show up until then.   Tiny differences in texture might not show up until after the finish coat as cured.   If you do spot them, let the paint cure completely, then sand the offending spots down again until the flaws disappear and refinish the area with primer and topcoat again.  Sometimes it takes several interations to make repairs invisible but the results are well worth the extra effort.  It recently took at least 4 passes for me to get satisfactory results after repairing a few simple chips in the bow of my sailboat.  Some of those passes required going all the way back to redoing the Bondo!

I recently came across another product that claims to be stronger and more waterproof than Bondo.  It also contains long strands of fiberglass within the resin so it doesn't require fiberglass cloth for some of the smaller applications.  It is called Evercoat Kitty Hair.  It is a little more expensive than Bondo but not needing fiberglass cloth for smaller repairs and the additional strength and waterproofing may make it well worth the extra investment.  It is a lot faster than cutting fiberglass cloth to fill large holes (up to about the size of an egg -- holes bigger than that require additional repair with appropriate sheeting material and fiberglass cloth).

I have had a chance to try out Kitty Hair and it did a wonderful job of filling an egg-sized dent in the bow of my fiberglass sailboat.  I did discover that it is a little harder to smooth out than ordinary Bondo and I ended up using Bondo as the final coat before finishing paste, primer and paint.  Kitty Hair certainly worked well to build up a sturdy filler, much easier than repeatedly cutting graduated pieces of fiberglass cloth to fill in the hole.  I will still used ordinary Bondo for shallow scratches where the long strand fibers in Kitty Hair would be overkill and would be difficult to smooth out.  As mentioned above, I used rasps and files for the initial shaping followed by #60, #80, #100, #150, and #220 sanding before applying the primer.  The best file for this is called a body file and is specifically designed for working fiberglass fillers.    Body files are flat files with wide curved grooves that smooth scrape away high spots on fiberglass filler.  However, lacking a body file, you can usually get the job done with ordinary wood rasps and files if you are careful how you use them!  Be especially careful if you use a wood rasp.  The rough, sharp teeth can make deep gouges in the filler and you will have to fill them in and start over!

There are a lot of good videos on Youtube for both vehicle and vessel fiberglass repairs.  It would be well worth your time to view a few of these before embarking on your first attempt.   With a little patience and practice you can make a lot of repairs yourself, saving both time and money.

Many fiberglass boats (and RVs) have a gelcoat finish.  Repairing the gelcoat takes special gelcoat compound along with rather tedious preparation and application.  Sometimes you can use Topside paint to cover the repair if  you can match the color closely to the gelcoat.  It is difficult if not impossible to blend the paint into gelcoat for a seamless repair.  For that you need matching gelcoat.   If you opt to paint it instead, it might be best to mask off an appropriate section do be repainted.  If you still don't like the way it looks you might try applying some kind of decorative design to disguise the repair rather than trying to blend it it.  The design might involve vinyl decals or paint.  I used the masking technique when I had to repair a ding in the bow of our sailboat, painting the whole bow from deck to waterline for about 8".  The painted area is detectable up close but does not stand out and is WAY better than the original damage!  For best results get a gelcoat repair kit to match the finish on your vessel or vehicle.  In the long run it will be well worth the extra cost and extra effort.  Here is a Youtube video on gelcoat repair.

Rainy days?  Can't work outside?  Might still be able to get some things done.  A lot of fine sanding, like between coats of paint, are done using #400 wet-and-dry sandpaper and sanding wet.  So even if the surface is wet you can sand it.  You probably don't want to be standing out in a pouring rain.  That would be uncomfortable and it might be too much water even for wet sanding, but you might still be able to make some progress on a project without having to wait for another sunny day.  I did indeed take advantage of a couple of rainy days to do the wet sanding between top coats when I repaired the bow of my sailboat. Having to work on rainy days is pretty much a given here in Oregon!  My dad used to say there were only 3 seasons in Oregon:  Spring, Summer, and Rain -- and it rained in the Spring and the Summer!

Patch it up!

Weather Watches, Advisories, and Warnings for Campers and Boaters

The US Weather Service issues several levels of alerts.   They may include watches, advisories, and warnings.  While many people think they are all just different names the same kind of event, each term has a specific meaning.  Watches mean conditions are right for the stated event to occur so keep watch.  A watch may be upgraded to an advisory when the probability of the event happening reaches or exceeds 80%.  A warning means the event is imminent or is happening.  For example, a tornado watch says conditions are right for tornadoes to form.  A warning means a tornado has actually been spotted in the vicinity.  You might compare the three levels of weather alerts to the three levels of evacuation notice:  1:  Get Ready, 2:  Get Set, 3:  GO!  In both situations the first level tells you to be extra alert to the conditions around you, the second level says you need to begin taking appropriate actions because the threat is more likely, and the third tells you something bad is happening NOW!

The stated mission of the National Weather Service is "Provide weather, water, and climate data, forecasts and warnings for the protection of life and property and enhancement of the national economy."  Although the mission does not specifically address the needs of campers and other outdoor enthusiasts (hopefully we do count under "life and property" and might be part of the national economy), their forecasts can be of great use to us -- if we understand and pay attention to the alerts!

Campers and other outdoor enthusiasts should know the meaning of these weather terms so they can take appropriate actions to ensure their safety.  Each type of alert has a specific meaning that you can use to prioritize your response.  All of them mean keep an eye on the weather!  Read more to see how close an eye you need to keep depending on the type of alert.

Weather Watch.  If you hear of a weather watch in the region near where you are camping, keep an eye on the sky, check radio forecasts regularly, and begin to make preparations in case you must evacuate.  A watch means conditions are right for the forecast to happen.  Start making plans and preparations for what to do it if/when it happens.

Weather Advisory.  If you get an advisory, you should immediately start preparing to evacuate or secure your camp site against impending weather problems.   An advisory means the probability of the event happening has reached about 80% or more.  At this point you want to be prepared to take shelter or get the heck out of there on a moment's notice.

Weather Warning.  If you hear a warning you should take immediate steps to either evacuate or secure your camp site.  A warning means the predicted event is imminent or has actually been seen.  This is when folks in tornado country head to their storm cellars.   A weather warning is similar to a Level 3 Evacuation notice.   Be ready to take action NOW!

You may get weather alerts on your phone or other personal electronic device, via radio (local stations or NOAA weather stations). be informed by a ranger, other law enforcement, or other local residents, or read about it in the newspaper or on your computer.  It is always a good idea to check weather for your destination and your route before leaving home.  Then, monitor radio stations en route and in camp and periodically check your cell phone if you have cell coverage in camp.  The more warning you have of an impending weather problem the better prepared you can be.   Good preparation can prevent damage in injuries while lack of preparation or poor preparation often leads to severe personal injuries and expensive damage to property.

It would not be prudent to go camping or boating if severe weather is expected where you are going.  Almost all trips can be rescheduled to a safer time.  Severe weather problems can quickly take the fun out of any outing and could turn one into a medical or financial disaster.  We once took a dirt biking trip to the Mojave Desert over the Thanksgiving holiday.  Weather was normal when we left home and in several years of our annual "Turkey In The Dirt" outings we had never encountered any unacceptable weather.  However, by the time we reached the dirt road turn off to our destination (about 150 miles from home) it had begun to snow and there was already 6-8 inches of snow on the dirt road.  Knowing the difficult, hilly terrain and rough condition of the dirt road to the camp site we wisely decided to reroute to a different venue that didn't involve such extensive off road travel.  By the time we reached our alternate destination the snow had slowed down and there was only 2-3 inches on the ground in our new location -- and our camp site was only a few dozen yards off the main road on solid, flat, hard-packed sand.  This was before we had weather on our cell phones and even before I bought a NOAA weather radio.  In fact, that trip was a contributing factor in acquiring a NOAA radio.

Keep a weather eye.  This saying, popularized on pirate movies, basically means stay alert while going about your normal business.  Wise sailors kept a "weather eye" on the sky so they didn't encounter surprise storms.  Still pretty good advice for anyone involved in outdoor recreational activities.   Even if you have good electronic forecasts it is still essential to keep an eye on the sky.  The sky above you is going to tell you a lot more about what is happening or going to happen than any weather report!

I subscribe to an emergency email service that delivers National Weather Service Alerts for my county.   It is a good way to stay up to date on potential weather problems that might affect us.  However, it is county-wide and our county extends literally from the mountains to the sea so we get storm warnings for surf advisories even though we are in the mountains about 1300 feet above sea level.  You can sign up at emergencyemail.org.

Most published or broadcast weather predictions are for rather large, general areas.   Even many "local weather"reports tend be be regional in nature.  Local weather can be significantly affected by mountains and bodies of water.  Since both mountains and bodies of water are typical destinations for campers and other outdoor recreationalists, we are likely to be affected by very local weather patterns that might not be reflected in general forecasts.  Consult a seasoned local expert for the best idea of what to expect where you are at any given time.  Rangers, law enforcement officers, fire departments, and even owners of retail business, farms and ranches, can often be a good source of what to expect from the local weather.

Watch out!

General Camp Site Lighting (Again)

Camp site versus camp lighting.  Camp site lighting refers to the need for general lighting to illuminate a large part of a camp site, usually for group activities.  Camp Lighting would include the needs of individuals while camping, to work in a tent or at a picnic table or move about safely at night.  Individual camp lighting needs are usually adequately met via flashlights or lanterns.  General camp site lighting often requires more robust sources of light with wider areas of coverage.

Do you  really need extra lighting at a camp site?  Very often moonlight or the campfire provides enough light for most activities and lends a nice ambiance to the evening.  Artificial light might be needed for tasks that require detailed work, like food preparation or reading or games, or OHV repairs, but it can also interfere with other activities and impair your night vision unnecessarily.  Bright lights kind of destroy the normal ambiance of a campfire.  I have seen camp sites lit up like a major sports stadium.  Never did find out why they thought they needed that much light.  Auxiliary camp site lighting is definitely optional and you should exercise discretion when using it.  That being said, what are your options for lighting a camp site when needed?

Many times all you need is gas or battery powered lantern on your picnic table.  Camp site lighting usually involves illuminating larger areas for group activity.    You might use several strategically placed lanterns to provide general illumination.  That can be very helpful on dark desert nights.   A lantern  hanger can raise lanterns to expand the area of coverage.  Some lantern hangers clamp to picnic tables, some wrap around trees, some stand in or on the ground.   If I need to light up the whole camp site for general activities I have a 500 watt halogen light I can run off my RV generator.  It mounts to my RV ladder on an extendable stand that lets me put it high above the 11' roof of my RV, giving me coverage over a huge area if needed.  There have been very few times I have needed that much light in camp.  I also have a bright scene light from a salvaged ambulance on the back of my motorcycle trailer to illuminate the area for nighttime OHV repairs.  I also have one on the passenger side of the trailer but I avoid using it because it usually shines onto the common shared area of our campsite towards the campfire and I don't want to spoil the ambiance for everyone else just so I can work on my bike.

There are many ways to light a camp site.   A long standing traditional camp site light is the lantern, a kerosene lantern or a Coleman lantern.  Having a lantern hanger on a tree or RV or a lantern pole can give you more choices for where to use it.  For general camp site illumination you may need several powerful lanterns strategically placed around the are where activities will take place.  Many RVs have camp site lighting.  The porch light standard on most RVs provides some illumination.  Others have more comprehensive flood lights that can really light things up.   I have a scene light from a retired ambulance I use to light up the area beside my motorcycle trailer for after dark repairs.  There may be other specialized lighting needs.  For example,  I use a set of strobe lights on the roof of my motorcycle trailer to identify our camp to late night arrivals.  I have seen strobes built for the top of flag poles for similar purposes.  I also adapted flood lights from a retired ambulance as outdoor work lights on my motorcycle trailer.

Campfires are often enough to light up a camp site for most activities.   More light might be needed for food preparation and sometimes even for eating, but you don't want TOO MUCH light.  Excessive light spoils the mood and destroys your night vision.  You might need a lot of light for nighttime group activities but normally you should limit the amount of light pollution.  We get enough of of that in town!  It is usually really nice to enjoy the starry skies when we are camping.

Modern LED lanterns offer some nice options to gas and liquid fueled lanterns.  They are bright, efficient, and easy to use.  Some even have remote controls so you can turn them on and off and adjust the level from quite a distance away.  Some are have built in solar chargers so all you have to do to keep them charged is leave them out in the sun during the daylight hours.  LED lantern are usually cool to the touch so they are safer in tents and under awnings and canopies.  They are also quiet.  People are sometimes bothered by the hiss of white gas lanterns.  Old style incandescent lights and lanterns were about 90% efficient as heaters and about 10% efficient as lights.  LED lanterns produce almost no heat and the batteries and bulbs last a long time.  LED bulbs are usually rated at tens of thousands of hours.  Battery life depends on the total power being used and the quality of the batteries.  I once left an LED lantern with 17 LEDs on in my barn overnight.  It was powered by 4 really cheap "D" cell batteries.  The lantern continued to function perfectly for more than a year without changing the batteries!  An incandescent lantern would have completely drained the batteries before morning the night it was left on.

If you have generator or another 120 volt AC source of electricity you can use high-powered halogen flood lights to illuminate large group functions.  I rigged a light stand with a 500 watt halogen flood light that attached to the ladder of my Class A RV for use when we needed broad camp site coverage at night.   With the light about 6' above the roof of my tall RV it did a really good job lighting up pretty much the whole group area.   I just plug it into a convenient outdoor outlet on the back of my RV.  You can find a variety of halogen work lights at your local home center.  They usually have tripod stands that fold up nicely to make transporting them to camp easy and keep them steady in use.   You would normally want to use them on the ground but if you REALLY needed broader coverage you might set them on top of an RV.  I would suggest strapping them down to the luggage rack to prevent an errant breeze from blowing them off the roof.  One of my RVs came factory equipped with a pair of high-powered 120 volt flood lights on the passenger side.  I added 55 watt halogen driving light bulbs to each fixture so I could also run them on 12 volts without needing to run the generator.

Tiki torches are a fun and popular option.  Fueled with citronella oil they will also help keep insects at bay.  Tiki torches are easy inexpensive, easy to transport, and kind of romantic and festive.   And they usually contribute to a nice ambiance rather than wiping it out.  You will need to make sure the fuel containing bases are empty or are stored upright to avoid fuel spills in transport.   Some bases are metal cans with screw-on lids.  That type can help prevent spills en route.  Look for the ones with the caps tied onto the cans with a little chain so they don't get lost so easily.  You can also use citronella in kerosene lanterns and lamps on or around your picnic table.

Old fashioned torches were used to light dark spaces for thousands of years.  You seldom see any used today but in a pinch you could make your own.  You would need a handle, some kind of wick, and fuel.  A sturdy stick makes a good handle.  Cloth or fabric, especially cotton makes a pretty good wick.  In a more primitive environment you might use dry moss or shredded bark as wicking.  Oil was the traditional fuel for torches:  whale oil, animal fat, or petroleum,  Refined fuels, like gasoline, usually burn to hot and too fast.  Vegetable oils, butter, animal fat, and tree sap, are other possible natural fuels for torches.  Torches usually produce a lot of smoke so you want to avoid using them in enclosed spaces or where the prevailing breeze will blow the smoke toward you or your companions or into your tent or camper.  Torchlight is usually flickering so it isn't the best choice for lighting up detailed tasks or reading or medical emergencies.  Always use extra caution when using torches as the very hot, open flame can easily ignite any combustible material it may come in contact with.

Candles are good and even romantic for table lighting but usually don't put out enough light for area lighting -- unless you have a  whole LOT of very BIG candles!  I once saw some large candles on sticks to shove into the ground to provide pathway or area lighting almost as bright as tiki torches but haven't been able to find a current source to buy them now.  They might have been custom or artisan made.

Handheld flashlights are handy for illuminating your path or looking into dark cabinets or for specific tasks but are not particularly good for general illumination.  You might attach your flashlight or personal headlight to an empty milk jug to use it for general lighting for a limited area.

Glow sticks won't provide much in the way of area lighting but they can be useful in marking trails or flagging obstacles such as guy ropes and pegs on tents an awnings.   We sometimes used them to mark the signs we put up on the road to help late comers find our dirt bike camp at night in the desert until kids from a neighboring camp kept stealing them!   Coating one with chain lube seemed to dampen their enthusiasm for theft a little.   Once advantage to glow sticks is that they usually don't put out enough light to destroy your night vision -- or the ambiance around a campfire.

Light up!

Preventive Maintenance for Campers, RVers, and Boaters

 

Maintenance is usually defined as routine servicing or repair of equipment or units as need to keep them operating correctly.  Way too often we wait to perform maintenance until something has gone wrong, like doing an oil change when the oil light comes on or checking the radiator when the engine starts to over heat.  Too many times maintenance is ignored until the lack of it precipitates necessary repairs.

Preventive Maintenance (PM) is a predetermined program to keep machinery and equipment in optimal operating condition.  Changing the oil on your car on a regular schedule is a form of preventive maintenance.  All too often maintenance is put off until something fails and has to be repaired.  A good preventive maintenance schedule can often avoid expensive repairs. It also keeps machinery working better.  For example, cleaning or changing the air filter on internal combustion engines helps them run better and regular lubrication keeps things rolling smoothly and avoids premature wear on moving parts.

Preventative Maintenance is standard procedure on critical machines and equipment worldwide.  Aircraft have a very strict schedule for required preventative maintenance.  Same with trains, city buses, school buses, and hospital equipment.  Many of these are even set by law to ensure public safety.  Although you may not be bound by law to perform preventative maintenance on YOUR personal equipment, you may be under an obligation to do so to maintain warranties.  Even if your vehicles and other equipment is out of warranty you should still adhere to the prescribed maintenance schedule to ensure optimal performance and avoid unnecessary and often expensive repairs.

Preventive Maintenance for new vehicles, vessels, and other mechanical equipment is usually described in the owner's manual.  Often you must show proof of performing required preventive maintenance before any warranty will be honored.  Preventive maintenance usually includes inspecting or changing lubricants and filters but may also include adjustments and inspections of parts that wear down in normal use, such as brake pads and shoes.  Lacking an owner's manual for your vehicle or boat, contact a qualified dealer or mechanic or another owner of s similar piece of equipment to learn what they do.  If all else fails, try to find a maintenance schedule for a similar piece of equipment, perhaps a different brand to form the basis for creating your own maintenance schedule.  Typical preventative maintenance on any piece of machinery or equipment involves regular lubrication of moving parts, regular inspection and/or adjustment of specific items, inspecting all safety features to ensure they are working properly, inspection and if needed, replacement of air and fuel filters, belts and hoses, and general cleaning.

Anything with an engine (RV, OHV, boat) will require regular attention to oil changes, and oil, fuel, and air filters.   While many maintenance schedules specify miles or hours of use to define the frequency of maintenance, there are also time intervals.  Lacking an owner's manual, you should change oil, oil filter, air and fuel filters on most engines at least once a year.  That would apply to RVs, tow vehicles, OHVs, boats, outboard motors, generators and things like gasoline powered power washers.  Two good times to do this is when preparing equipment for winter storage or when getting it out of storage and ready to use again.  Some people like to do both, as lubrication can break down when a piece of equipment is in storage for several months.

Preventive Maintenance on non-mechanical gear is also usually described in the original owner's manual or instruction sheet.   Maintenance of tents usually includes cleaning and also inspecting and repairing poles, tie downs, zippers, and stakes.  Over time you may need to replenish the waterproofing via a spray or liquid waterproofing product.  Sleeping bags should be regularly aired out and occasionally dry cleaned.  Back packs and pack frames should be inspected to ensure straps and buckles are safe and functioning properly, any fasteners are secure, and snaps and zippers are in good shape.

Preventive Maintenance on camp stoves and lanterns mostly consists of regular cleaning and sometimes servicing of pump gaskets on liquid fuel devices.  Replacing the mantles on lanterns might be considered maintenance but is more appropriately part of the normal operations as they usually need to be replaced at the beginning of each use.  Likewise with fueling liquid fuel appliances but regular cleaning of the fuel tanks and servicing pump gaskets might be part of the preventative maintenance.  The generators on liquid fuel appliances usually don't have any preventative maintenance procedures but may need to be replaced when they age out and fail.

Preventative Maintenance may also be applied to clothing, such as hiking gear and OHV riding gear.  Proper cleaning after each use will extend the life of most articles.  Dirt and grime can cause accelerated wear and any kind of chemical contamination might compromise the integrity of the fabric.  Items should be regularly inspected for any tears, loose, or damaged fasteners (buttons, snaps, zippers, cords, etc.).  Some items, such as boots, may require special cleaners and/or polishes.  Hiking and riding boots often benefit from a waterproofing treatment as well.  I also like to use SC-1 Detail Spray on the plastic and leather parts of my dirt bike riding boots.  It gives them a nice shine and helps keep dirt and grime from sticking.

Camping tools like hatchets, axes, and shovels will also benefit from regular Preventative Maintenance.   All three should be checked often to ensure the handles are not coming loose and are safe to use.  Regular sharpening is also a basic requirement.  Metal tools or metal parts of tools should be given a light coating of oil when in storage to prevent rust.  Linseed oil can also be used on wooden handles to keep them smooth and prevent splinters.  Cracked or broken handles should be replaced.

Camp furniture should be regularly inspected to ensure all joints operate smoothly, that legs haven't lost their foot caps, and that any damage gets repaired.  Awnings should always be stored clean and dry.  Camp chairs will usually benefit from regular cleaning and sometimes need a drop or two of oil or dry lubricant at the pivot points.

Each RV or camping appliance will have its own preventative maintenance schedule and requirements.  It is important to know and follow those procedures to ensure proper operation of your appliances.  Many times an appliance failure can be traced directly to failure to perform required maintenance, and that can be a frustrating and expensive proposition.  This applies to stoves, refrigerators, water heaters, water pumps, furnaces, ice makers, and any other devices you may have onboard your RV or in your camping kit.  Even ice chests need regular cleaning and might sometimes required repair to prevent moisture for intruding into and defeating the insulation.  Broken or damaged hinges and latches should be repaired or replaced.

Lacking a prescribed maintenance schedule it is a good idea to perform preventive maintenance at least once a year.   Good times to do that are when you put things away for the winter and when you get them out again in the spring for the next season's use.  Doing them at the end of the season helps ensure things are clean and dry for proper storage and gives you time to acquire parts or replacements before the next season.  Checking or re-checking everything each spring ensures things are in good condition for to be used in the new season.  If  you do PM when putting things into storage they should be good to go when you get them out again next season, but always look them over.  Sometimes pests or other unfavorable conditions may introduce problems in storage.  Looking everything over when getting things out of storage can catch both things that crept in during storage and anything you might have accidentally missed when putting them away.

Even your body will benefit from good preventative maintenance.  Many medical insurance plans require you to have an annual "wellness check".  Many times this may uncover a developing problem BEFORE it becomes serious or life threatening.  We all know that insurance companies are most interested in their own bottom lines so offering free wellness checks is one way they avoid paying for costly treatment by detecting and correcting problems early.  The fact that you avoid unpleasant and painful disabilities is a nice side effect!  You could consider your regular exercise program a form of preventative maintenance.  Personally I follow the 5BX program developed for the Canadian Air Force and adapted by the U.S. Air Force.  It takes only 11 minutes a day and requires no special equipment..  I am pleased that at 76  years old I maintain an exercise program intended for 49 year olds!  Same with maintaining a good sleep schedule and proper diet.   Consistently getting the right amount of sleep is critical for maintaining optimum physical and mental condition and performance.   Pre-hydrating before strenuous activities, especially in hot weather, is another good preventative maintenance for your body.  Proper warm ups before beginning any strenuous activity is also helpful in preventing injuries and enhancing the enjoyment of your experience,

Do not delay PM!