RV Wiring Basics

In addition to vehicle wiring (in a motorhome), there are usually two separate electrical systems inside the coach portion of an RV:  a 12-volt system and a 120-volt system which are separate from vehicle wiring (even trailers have vehicle wiring for running lights, etc).  The 12-volt coach system usually runs the lights, water pump, fans, and the electronic components of furnaces, water heaters, and refrigerators.   The 120-volt system powers the refrigerator when connected to 120-volt power, runs the roof air conditioner, provides power to the convertor to create 12-volt power without drawing down the batteries, and often powers TVs, VCRs, DVDs, and (if so equipped) washers and dryers etc.  Some RVs have water heaters with electrical heating elements.   Optional 120 volt "heat strips" on roof air conditioners sometimes supplement propane furnaces.  Winterized RVs may have heating pads or heat tape on holding tanks and exterior plumbing.  These heating elements are often designed with dual voltage capabilities so they can be run off either 12 DC or 120 volt AC electrical sources.  120-volt power is provided from a shore connection, on board generator, solar panels, or from batteries via an inverter.

12-volt wiring is usually fairly small gauge, mostly #12 or smaller.  The red wire is usually the 'hot' wire and the black wire is the ground.  Larger #10 wire may be used for special, high-amperage appliances, charging circuits, and main lines.   120-volt wiring usually follows standard configurations for residential and commercial wiring.  The black wire is the 'hot' wire, the white wire is the neutral and the green wire is the ground.   Yes, it is confusing that the black wire is ground for 12 volt and hot for 120-volt, but just remember that whenever you are working on your RV electrical systems.  I like to carry a few feet of #12 and #10 automotive wire, some extra crimp terminals, a roll of electrical tape, and some spare fuses in case I have to make repairs in camp or on the road.

12-volt systems are fairly safe and simple to work on.   There is no danger of getting electrocuted or even shocked by a 12-volt wire.  The biggest problem you might see is shorting out a circuit which will blow the fuse, or, if there is no fuse, melt the wiring. You can get arcing when you ground a 12-volt hot wire and that might burn you or start a fire.  You should never wire circuits that are not fuse or circuit breaker protected.  The whole point of a fuse or circuit breaker is to fail BEFORE the wiring gets hot enough to start melting insulation.   A short in an unprotected circuit can cause a fire. Normally the red wire will be 12-volt positive and the black wire the negative ground. Try to adhere to this convention whenever you add 12-volt wiring to your rig and always make sure you use a wire of a least sufficient size for the expected load and protect it with a fuse or circuit breaker of the proper rating.   Using a heavier wire (lower #) will never hurt, but using a lighter wire (higher gauge) risks overheating and possibly a fire.  Avoid working with live circuits.  Connecting and disconnecting live wires can create sparks, which could blow a fuse, cause a fire, or burn your hands.  If there are volatile fumes present (propane or gasoline vapor) sparks could cause an explosion.

120-volt systems are capable of delivering a nasty, potentially lethal, shock.   If you aren't familiar or comfortable with working on residential wiring, have the work done by a qualified electrician or RV technician.  Always turn off the circuit breaker or unplug the power to the RV and shut down the generator when working on 120-volt systems.   Professional electricians sometimes change outlets or switches without turning the power off, but the practice is not recommended, even for them.  If you're going to be working with wires, switches, outlets, or other 120-volt connections, turn off the breakers and/or unplug the shore power cord and turn off the generator and any inverters before you do anything and don't turn them back on until you have completed your repairs.  Normally the black wire in 120-volt applications is the hot wire, the white wire is the neutral, and the green or un-insulated copper wire is the ground.  It is important to conform to these standards when working with 120-volt wiring.   Electricity doesn't know or care what color wiring you're using, but it will matter to the next person who works on it -- which might be you!  It is critical that all 120-volt wiring is of sufficient size to handle the load on each circuit.  15 amp circuits need minimum 14 gauge wire; 20 amp circuits need 12 gauge wire; 30 amp circuits need 10 gauge wire.  There shouldn't ever be a problem using a heavier wire than necessary, but using a lighter gauge could prove disastrous.  Running higher amperage than the wire is rated for can result in heat, melting insulation and causing a fire.  Most RVs with 30 amp shore power will have mostly 15 amp breakers for the outlets plus a heavier breaker (and heavier wiring) to the roof AC.  At least one of my motorhomes used 12 gauge wiring on the 15 amp circuits (which is overkill) but you may find yours uses 14 gauge wire.

Most 120-volt wiring these days uses copper wire.  You might encounter aluminum wire in some older units.  Mixing different types of metals in the same circuit is not a good idea.   Aluminum and copper are both fairly good electrical conductors, but they have slightly different electrical properties and respond differently to various loads.   Connections between copper and aluminum can promote a electro-chemical reaction that accelerates corrosion.   If you MUST join copper and aluminum wires, treat the joint a special grease made for the purpose.  Do NOT use dielectric grease, which has insulating properties and should only be used on non-conducting portions of connectors.

RVs have a limited number of outlets.  Each circuit is protected by a circuit breaker similar to the ones in your home.  If you overload a circuit, the breaker will trip.  Make sure you know where the breaker panel is so you can reset breakers as needed.  Since RVs have limited power available, either from the shore cable or a generator, adding outlets or circuits may or may not be possible without exceeding the available amperage.  Be sure to check the total amperage so you don't exceed the input power available.  My big diesel pusher actually had some empty slots in the breaker panel where I was able to add a dedicated 20 amp circuit for an outside outlet to power the enclosed motorcycle trailer I towed behind it.  The 6000 watt generator also had some excess capacity.  Smaller rigs I've had have not had any empty slots and an analysis of the amperage indicated adding more circuits would exceed the shore power rating.  In that case you have to find a way to work with existing outlets.  If you have to splice into any existing wires, be sure to enclose the splice in an approved junction box.  DO NOT just twist wires together and wrap them with electrical tape like you do with 12-volt wiring.  You might install extra outlets on existing circuits for convenience, but take care to monitor the total load so you don't exceed the breaker rating.  Adding outlets may add convenience but it won;t add capacity!

The vehicle wiring on a motorhome or trailer should follow conventional wiring colors used on cars and trucks.  Normally, the positive battery cable or terminal should be red and the negative side black.  But it isn't always so be sure to check the polarity at the battery.   If your battery cables are not properly color coded, wrap each one with the appropriate color electrical tape (red for positive(+), black for ground(-)) for future reference.   Interior 12 volt lighting then follows the same color scheme:  red for hot, black for ground.  Trailer connector wiring usually uses yellow for the left turn signal, green for the right turn signal, brown for the tail lights, and white for ground.   On a 6 prong or bigger trailer connector, blue is usually used for the electric brakes and red for a battery-charging circuit.  You may encounter additions or repairs someone has done previously using different colors so always test the wiring using a test light or voltmeter before making any modifications.  Compare the connections to the plug to the appropriate wiring diagrams for each style of trailer connector.  You sometimes find that a vehicle and trailer have both been mis-wired and are compatible with each other but not with other units with standard wiring.  If you find any of your vehicles is mis-wired, it is always a good idea to bring it into compliance with accepted standards so your vehicle is compatible with other trailers and your trailer is compatible with other vehicles.

Trailer connector adapters are available to convert almost any trailer plug to fit almost any receptacle on the vehicle.  Small, light weight trailers without electric brakes often use a simple flat 4- connector plug or a round 4-connector plug.  Trailers with electric brake will have a round 6 or 7 connector plug to accommodate the brake wiring.  These plugs also have an extra terminal than can be wired to the tow vehicle battery/charging system so the two vehicle charges the trailer batteries in route.  Any time you have a charging circuit connected to the trailer the vehicle should use a battery isolator to keep the trailer from drawing down the vehicle battery in camp.  Battery isolators may be either electronic or solenoid types.  Electronic units use diodes to limit flow of current in one direction; solenoids use magnetically controlled switches to connect and disconnect isolated batteries depending on whether there is charging voltage available.

Loose connections are one of the most common electrical problems in an RV.  Connections to appliances and the fuse panel may use screw connectors or spade terminals.  If they use screw connectors, make sure the screws are tight, but take care not to strip them by over tightening.   Spade terminals may get loose over time, especially if they are removed and reinstalled a number of times. Sometimes you can crimp the female terminal gently with pliers to restore a tight fit.   If that doesn't work, you may have to replace the terminal.  It is a pretty simple task.  Sometimes you can pull them off the wire. If they are too tight you may have to cut the wire and strip about 1/4" of insulation to install a new terminal.  New terminals are best installed using special crimping tools.  You might try to crimp them with ordinary pliers in an emergency but that usually flattens out the connection and doesn't grip properly.  Heavy duty crimping pliers have a nub that presses into the terminal to ensure a good connection by tightly pinching the wire inside the sleeve of the terminal. They also have a channel that holds the sleeve of the terminal so it doesn't just flatten out when crimped.  When adding or replacing fixtures you may need to extend the wiring.  To ensure a good connection either use proper connections, such as butt connectors or wire nuts or twist the wires together and solder them, then wrap the joint with electrical tape or use heat-shrink insulation.  For some light duty applications, like speaker wires and some low amperage 12-volt connections you might get away with just twisting the wires together and wrapping the joint with electrical tape but using a connector or soldering the joint is always a better permanent solution.  Twisted joints that are not soldered may come loose if there is any tension on the wires and sometimes can come loose from vibration alone while traveling.   A loose speaker wire is annoying.  A loose hot wire can blow a fuse or even cause  a fire.

Ground connections are just as important as the hot wires.  Without a good ground, the circuit is not complete.  Bad grounds are a very common problem on RVs, in both the coach and chassis wiring.  If your clearance lights, park lights, turn signals or brake lights are dim, intermittent, or otherwise don't work properly, the problem is often a bad ground.  When diagnosing electrical problems always check the ground connections as well as the hot wires.  Ground connections seem to be particularly susceptible to corrosion.  Sometimes merely tightening a loose screw will solve the problem but often you may have to remove it and clean the surface and the connector and reinstall it to get a good ground. Protecting connections with some kind of corrosion block or battery terminal protectorant can reduce corrosion.  I've seen a bad ground cause the turn signals to blink all four park lights and all the clearance lights.  Lacking a good ground at one fixture, the circuit was completed through the ground on other fixtures, after passing through and activating the bulbs in those fixtures.  If you experience strange or unexplained electrical problems, check the ground connections.  When you have problems with lights, be sure to check the bulbs.  Sometimes a burned filament will short out inside a bulb and cause strange symptoms.   Corrosion on bulb bases and sockets, especially in exterior lights, is fairly common problem and can usually be solved by cleaning the socket and the bulb or cleaning the socket and replacing the bulb.  Sometimes corrosion causes the spring-loaded base in he socket to stick.  You can sometimes free it up by pressing on the base with a non-conducting tool such as a wooden dowel or a plastic shaft.  If that doesn't work, you may have to replace the socket.   Bad grounds can usually be fixed by removing the connection and cleaning both the terminal and the metal surface to which it is attached with a wire brush or emery cloth.  Both surfaces should be shiny before you put it back together.  Spraying the restored connection with battery terminal protector will help prevent (but not completely eliminate) a re-occurrence.  Even starting problems can often be traced to a bad grounding strap between the engine and the frame.  Many RVs have a fairly small grounding strap.  Enterprising owners have cured grounding problems by replacing the original grounding straps with much large battery grounding straps.

Motor vehicles, like motorhomes and tow vehicles usually have a big ground strap between the engine and the frame.  It is usually an un-insulated braided metal strap.  The connections often get corroded or may come loose over time, causing many electrical problems in the vehicle.  For example, a bad ground often causes symptoms similar to a faulty starter.  Simply removing the mounting bolts and cleaning the terminals and the mating surfaces with a wire brush until they are both shiny, then reinstalling the bolt tightly will usually solve these problems.  The terminal on the engine side may be greasy and would then benefit from cleaning with solvent as well.  The frame end is usually only corroded but if it is greasy, it should also be cleaned with solvent.  If the strap has deteriorated, it may have to be replaced.  The ground strap is often on the left (driver's side) of the engine.  Some folks add a second strap on the passenger side for extra reliability; it shouldn't be necessary, but it won't hurt anything.  Sometimes the factory grounding straps are pretty light weight, only about 3/8" wide and pretty thin.  I prefer to use one the size used as a ground strap on automotive batteries, about 1" wide and 1/8" thick.  They are less likely to be weakened by rust, corrosion, or vibration.

Problems with grounding of 12-volt circuits on RVs are very common.   If a light or appliance doesn't work or has intermittent problems, it is likely a problem with the ground connection.  Many fixtures on an RV are mounted on wood paneling (interior) or fiberglass (exterior) and neither conducts electricity like the metal boy on most cars and trucks does.   Grounding for exterior lights is often done through a ground wire connected to the fixture and the other end connected somewhere to the vehicle metal frame.  The connection to either the fixture or the frame may get loose or corroded over time and will cease to function.  Repair normally consists of unfastening the connection and cleaning away any rust, dirt, or corrosion, then reconnecting the terminal.  Sometimes you will  need to replace a bad screw to get a good connection and you should always polish the terminal and any surface (such as the frame) that it comes in contact with.  You might want to spray some battery protectant on the new connection to help reduce future problems with corrosion.  Often the terminals are made of aluminum or brass and the frame is steel so it creates a bi-metal reaction, also known as a galvanic corrosion when exposed to an electrolyte and an electric current.  Coating the connection can help protect it from electrolytes.

Occasionally broken bulbs can cause strange problems with lighting.   When a bulb burns out, the filament breaks so no electricity can flow through the bulb.  Sometimes the broken filament may come in contact with the base of the bulb, creating an unexpected ground within the bulb.  I've seen situations where such a broken turn signal bulb caused the taillights and all the clearance lights to blink when the turn signal was activated.   Such symptoms are usually short-lived because the extra load quickly burns out the broken filament again.

What often appears to be a bad bulb, may turn out to be a corroded base rather than a burned out filament.   Or it may just be a loose bulb.  A loose bulb might be fixed by carefully twisting it back into place.  If the socket appears to be too large you might be able to gently squeeze it tighter with a pair of pliers.   Take care not to deform the socket.  If that doesn't work, it is best to replace the socket.  If the base of the bulb is corroded, it won't have make good ground contact with the socket or a good hot connection with the "button" at the bottom of the bulb.  Try cleaning the bulb and the parts of the socket.  Be careful not to short between the sleeve of the socket and the "hot" button in the middle.  For added safety, turn off the switch to the fixture or disconnect the battery before working on the damaged socket.  Sometimes simply replacing a corroded bulb will solve the problem, but if the socket itself is corroded, it should be cleaned or replaced for best and longest lasting results.

Ultimately you are going to find having certain wiring tools will make your job easier and give you better results.  It is possible to strip insulation from wires using a knife, but a wire stripper will make it a lot faster, safer, and easier and will generally allow you to make better connections.  Wire crimpers are needed for installing crimp terminals.  Trying to clamp them down with pliers just doesn't work.  Pliers won't provide the indentation that crimpers do.  They just squeeze two sides of the terminal together and the wire will usually just slip out when there is even a little tension on it.  Manual wire strippers are sometimes standalone units and sometimes part of a stripper/crimper design.  With manual strippers you position the jaws where you want to start stripping and pull the wire so the tool removes the insulation from the end.   You can also get automatic wire strippers that grip the wire, cut the insulation and pull if off all in one move. There are also at least two styles of crimpers.  Some have different notches along the handles of a stripper/crimper tool with each notch designed for a specific size of wire/terminal.  Another, heavier duty style looks more like pair of pliers,  It has a notch on one of the jaws to hold the terminal and a nub on the other side to crimp it deeply.  The plier's style crimpers usually let you make a stronger connection and can be used on just about any size of  wire/terminal.  Electrician's screwdrivers are really handy when working on 120 volt outlets and switches.  There are two different special features for electrician's screwdrivers.  Some have insulated shafts to prevent accidental shorting.  Some have bent shafts that gives them a kind of crank-like shape that speeds installation of the screws that secure outlets and switches.  Both styles are readily available and not terribly expensive.

Wire up!

Hauling Your Camping Gear

Many times, hauling your camping gear simply means loading it into the trunk of your car, the back of your SUV or pickup, or on the roof rack and hitting the road.  But what do you do when your stuff no longer fits in the trunk or other available space?  Whether it is because your family is growing, you've invited more people to join you, or because you've just accumulated more or larger camping gear, the time will come when you run out of room.  In the old days when cars had running boards, extra cargo could be tied down on them. But since running boards disappeared back in the 1930s options for carrying excess cargo have been limited.  If you have a trailer hitch, you may be able to get a rack or an enclosed "trunk" that fits in the hitch like a wheel-less trailer.  Another low-cost and low-impact option is to purchase a car-top carrier.   This may take the form of a bag that attaches to an existing roof rack on an SUV or a unit that mounts on the drip rails of a standard sedan. In either case you'll likely have a zippered vinyl container that is suitable for carrying tents and sleeping bags and some other gear.   Both to reduce the stress on your back getting gear up and down and to minimize the load on the roof, try to limit the weight of items you put up there.   Too much weight can affect handling and piling things high will create drag that affects fuel economy, even if it isn't heavy enough to cave in the roof.   I prefer to load soft, fairly light items, like sleeping bags and put the hard, heavy stuff (like camp stoves) in a lower, more secure cargo area.   Some modern cars don't have drip rails so there isn't a good place to attach a roof carrier without drilling holes in the roof, which, of course, isn't a good idea. Some may sit on suction cups, secured with straps into the top of the door openings. Keep in mind any strap that interferes with the weather stripping will cause wind noise and will very likely leak when it rains.  Many times the weather stripping will be permanently damaged so the door whistles and leaks even after the strap has been removed.   Try to make sure all the straps lie flat to minimize the impact on weather stripping.   If you plan to use a roof top carrier often it might be worth adding a roof rack if you don't already have one.  You usually don't see them on sedans, but there is no reason they couldn't be added.  If you're a pretty ambitious do-it-yourselfer you might pick up a roof rack from an old station wagon at your local junk yard and install it yourself.  It will require removing the headliner and that can be a pain and you might want to look for ways to reinforce the roof where you mount the rack to prevent damage.  Luggage racks can sometimes be added to the deck lid but that makes opening the trunk difficult when they are loaded.  If a roof top carrier doesn't appeal to you or won't work on your vehicle, you might consider getting a small trailer.  Most cars, even sub-compacts, can have a trailer hitch added.  Just be sure you don't exceed the Combined Vehicle Weight Rating CVWR) loading your trailer.  An overloaded trailer or exceeding the CVWR is recipe for disaster!

Utility trailers are a convenient option for transporting camping gear.  If you don't already have a trailer hitch on your vehicle, you'll have to add one, together with appropriate connections for stop, turn, and tail lights.  In some states, light utility trailers don't even require license or registration.  Small trailers like this can be towed by just about any motor vehicle, including compact cars and even motorcycles!  Light utility trailers usually don't have electric brake systems.  If you choose a larger trailer with electric brakes, you'll need a brake controller on your vehicle.  Some small trailers come equipped with a "surge brake".   This is self-contained.  The hitch on the trailer is designed to flex and activate a hydraulic braking system on the trailer when the tow vehicle slows down.  Light weight trailers often don't have any brakes.  While simple flat-bed trailers like those used to haul riding lawnmowers will do the job, you'll probably be happier with a box style trailer with enclosed sides.  It will look kind of like a pick up bed.  You can cover it with a tarp to keep the sun and rain off your gear and keep things from blowing out.  Fully enclosed box trailers provide extra protection for your gear against weather and extra security, but they are usually a little more expensive and a little heavier to tow.  Fully enclosed trailers, or a well-tarped utility trailer, can provide extra protection against unusually bad weather in camp.  For that reason I would probably buy a trailer that is at least long enough to lay down in, unless I really needed something very small and very light to tow behind a small car or a motorcycle.  With a little creativity you can make a pipe frame to support a tarp over your utility trailer to create a protected patio space in camp.  An enclosed utility trailer just might become your first step toward an RV and can provide emergency shelter if the weather turns bad.  I like to have an enclosed trailer when I have work on my dirt bikes in bad weather.  It also provides a secure place for tools, spare parts, and riding gear.  A couple of people could sleep on the floor out of of the weather in an emergency.  I have seen old tent trailers stripped down to make light weight utility trailers that are ideal from hauling tent camping equipment.  I obtained on old Apache tent trailer that includes a clam-shell lid that does a surprisingly good job of protecting the contents from the elements.  All the original amenities were long gone but it makes a great trailer for hauling our camping gear.

Trailers can provide other functions besides simply hauling your gear to the campsite.  I've seen small trailers with removable tops that are equipped with folding legs to serve as tables in camp.  If your trailer is approximately the size of any pick up bed you might put a truck tent in the trailer to get you up off the ground.  You might build a "chuck box" to fit in the back of your utility trailer (or your trunk or the back of your SUV or pickup) similar to the ones used in chuck wagons on cattle drives in the Old West, giving you a ready-made kitchen when you get to camp.  It should have cupboards and bins to hold pots and pants, dishes, utensils, and provisions.   Every door and drawer should have a positive latch so doesn't come open in transit.  With a little clever engineering you could add a sink with running water, adding further convenience to your camping experience.  A shepherd's crook style lantern holder might be fitted to keep your camp lighting stable and up out of the way.  If you use a propane lantern, you could power it from a large propane tank on or in the trailer so you don't have to bother with changing those little 1 pound cylinders every few hours.  A trailer might serve as part of the support system for your tent, adding strength and stability over standard and sometimes flimsy tent poles.  An enclosed trailer could be fitted with an RV awning or just a tarp and appropriate supports for convenient shade and protection from light rain.  I've seen simple PVC pipe frames used on flat-bed utility trailers to turn the trailer into a portable pavilion, providing much needed shade during desert camping.

You can use a trailer as a box to put your stuff in or customize it to create specialized compartments to secure items so you can find them easily and they don't get damaged in transit.  Just adding hooks or eyes where you can attach bungee cords to strap things down can make a lot of difference in organization and in preventing stuff from shifting during your travels.  A customized trailer might even include a chuck box (like they used in old-time chuck wagons) as the foundation for your camp kitchen.  Here is one source for building your own:  Chuck Box Plans  A chuck box can also be useful in a pickup bed, SUV, station wagon, or even the trunk of your car -- if you design it properly to fit the available space.

We picked up a small trailer to haul tent camping gear.   It had begun life as an Apache tent camping trailer and made an exceptionally good trailer for hauling camping gear.  All the internal features had been removed making it a simple utility trailer.  The original aluminum "clamshell" lid was still fully functional and kept out all but a few drops of rain when we were caught in an unexpected deluge, even with some damaged seals.  A small, lightweight trailer is a handy way to organize and even store your camping equipment if you have a place to park it.  You can keep it stocked with non-perishable items to make spontaneous outings more convenient.  In some states lightweight trailers like our Apache don't even have to be licensed.  I have found it hard to resist the temptation to restore more of the Apache's original camping features.  I have been experimenting with ways to make use of the trailer in camp, including rigging PVC hoops to support tarp to create protected living space inside but haven't yet gotten close to its full potential or even its original purpose.  Still we have found it VERY useful for tent camping.  Our converted Apache has a clam shell lid that does a surprisingly good job of protecting the contents.  We encountered an unexpected deluge during the first outing we took ours on and escaped with only a few drops inside.  The rain was so heavy there was 1 1/2" of water on the freeway even though we were on a fairly steep hill!   That same rain managed to fill the spare tire well in our supposedly well-sealed SUV!

It is likely you'll begin to find new uses for your trailer each time you take it out.   A trailer can help support a canopy or awning to get you some shade and you might even use the bed of the trailer as a sitting or play area to keep you and the kids up out of the dirt.  But be warned: as you start finding more innovative ways to use your trailer, you'll probably start gravitating toward upgrading to a trailer with even more amenities, like a quality tent trailer or pop-up trailer or perhaps even a camping trailer or a toy hauler.

Sometimes, if you have a hitch receiver on your vehicle, you can use a cargo rack or cargo box that attaches to the hitch receiver.   This may be a viable solution of you only need a small amount of additional carrying capacity and don't want to tow a trailer.  Dragging around a trailer often impacts maneuverability and, in some states like California, subjects you to lower speed limits.  Which is one of my pet peeves.  Traffic shear, the difference between speeds in adjacent lanes of traffic, is well known as a dangerous condition that contributes to accidents.  I find it appalling and irresponsible that governments choose to mandate traffic shear by setting different speeds for different vehicles on the same highway.  At one time a lower speed for over the road trucks and trailers might have made sense, but with modern suspension and braking systems, those restrictions are outdated.  While there was time when the brakes on trucks weren't adequate, a typical modern 18-wheeler has a maximum gross weight of around 80,000 lbs and is equipped with brakes designed to handle 100,000 lbs or more.

Before you figure out how you're going to haul your gear, you need to figure out what you need and how you're going to organize it.  What you have and how you put it all together will help you determine how much room you need to carry it.  Or, conversely, how much room you have may dictate how much stuff you can bring along.   What you need will be determined by where you're going, for how long, and how many people will be in your group.   You will probably need tents and sleeping bags for everyone plus kitchen supplies (pots, pans, dishes, utensils, and cleaning supplies). Unless you can rely on campfire cooking you'll need a camp stove.  Everything should be neatly packaged it either its own stuff sacks (like tents and sleeping bags) or in plastic bins (kitchen stuff, toiletries, clothing, extra bedding).  You often have a kind of "chicken and the egg" problem in choosing bins or tubs for storage.  The size of the bin must be at least big enough to accommodate the largest item you need to put in it, but the size of your bins might also be limited by where you can put it in/on your vehicle.  So, the space you need depends on the amount of stuff you bring and the size of the bins, but how much stuff you bring and the size of your bins may be limited by the space you have.  When space is of concern, and it usually is, take advantage of tools and equipment with multiple functions to reduce how much stuff you have to bring.  Sometimes you need to take advantage of every bit of available space.   You can do things like put small items like spice containers in pots and pans and pad them with dish towels, dish rags, and pot holders.  Mess kits designed for camping usually have pots and pans that nest inside each other, greatly reducing the amount of space needed.  Many times you'll find it more convenient to use moderate sized bags or bins that are easier to load and fit in smaller spaces instead of trying to pile everything into one container.

One word of caution:  don't try to haul too much!  As you create a convenient way to haul your camping gear, there may be a tendency to pack way too much stuff.  Having a place to put it lends itself to the "if you think you might someday need it, bring it along" criteria for choosing what goes in.  While that sometimes works to your advantage, until "someday" comes, you'll be carrying extra weight that will reduce fuel economy and most likely make accessing what you regularly use more tedious and difficult.  The best approach to packing is to carefully select what you use regularly and organize things efficiently so you can get to everything you need when you need it.  Then, if you have room left over without interfering with access to regularly used items, you might carefully and thoughtfully add a few items that might add convenience or functionality to your camping.

As in most camping situations, efficiency and convenience are key bywords.   Careful selection and organization of equipment and supplies together with a convenient way to transport them will ensure a pleasant and enjoyable outing.  You'll want a system that make is easy to load, locate, store, use, and load your equipment and supplies.

Haul away!

Basic RV Camping

Motorhome, travel trailer, camper, or simple tent trailer.  It doesn't matter what kind of rig you have, the most basic steps will be the same.

Trip preparation is one of the keys to a successful trip.  Make sure you have prepared your rig properly.  Cool the refrigerator or ice box a day or so ahead of time.  Make sure your fresh water supply is clean and full.  Make sure your holding tanks or porta-potty is empty.  Load your provisions, clothing, and things you need for your recreational activities.   Fill up your propane and motor fuel.  If you're planning to have a campfire, load your firewood.  One of the best ways to make sure you don't forget something is to use pre-trip checklist.  See my previous post Pre-trip Procedures for more details.  Remember, failing to plan equals planning to fail!

When you arrive in camp, locate your camp site and park your rig within the designated area if you're in a developed campground or pick your spot when boondocking.  Try to get it as level as you can to minimize the task of leveling and stabilizing your unit.  Take care to say off the landscaping. For a motorhome, about all that's left once you've parked is to level and stabilize your rig and connect hook ups (if any).  For a travel trailer, you may need to disconnect it from the tow vehicle to level and stabilize it.  For a tent trailer, you'll want to disconnect it, level and stabilize it, then expand it so you have full access to all the extended living areas.  The beds in most tent trailers usually pop out from the main living space.  Take advantage of any available hookups when using any RV but don't take over public facilities for your private use.  Sometimes there may be a public water faucet close to your space, but if it is not part of the facilities that belong specifically to the space you're paying for, you should make no permanent connections.  You can probably use it to fill water jugs and, during low usage, fill your RV fresh water tank, but don't leave it connected to your RV.   Turn on your hot water heater.  If you didn't have your refrigerator on while traveling, turn it on now.  On cold days, start your furnace.  On hot days, you might want to fire up the generator and turn on the A/C.

Extend your awnings, if you have them, and roll out your patio mat or welcome mat.   You should always use some kind of mat in front of your RV steps to reduce tracking dirt, sand, and mud into your rig.  One approximately the size of your awning gives you a nice patio area, but a small welcome mat may be sufficient to help keep your rig clean.  A burlap bag makes a good welcome mat and they are cheap and can be tossed into the washing machine or hosed off when they need to be cleaned.

Organize your camp site.  Often when we go camping we take recreational equipment with us and you need to unload it and prepare it so its ready to use when you are ready to begin your activities.  If you are riding OHVs, unload them and prepare them for riding (check oil, fuel and tires, organize your riding gear, etc).  If you have brought along sports equipment or games, get them and out set up any necessary goals etc.  Find a relatively safe place to store equipment when not in use.  Underneath your RV or other vehicle is often a good place as it keeps your gear out of the sun and rain and, to some extent, out of sight so it doesn't disappear when you are not looking.  I am a big fan of security by obscurity!

Prepare your campfire.   Even if you won't need it for a few hours, it is a good idea to get things ready so when the sun goes down and the chill comes out, all you have to do is light it.  Its a lot easier to set it up before it gets dark and if the temperature drops it will be nice to be able to just drop a match into the tinder and have your fire up and going.  Be sure to put it out before you go to bed.  Also fold up your chairs and put them away.  An errant breeze might blow them into the fire pit.  I've seen many chairs destroyed that way.  The residual heat even after the fire has been (supposedly) put out is enough to destroy camp chairs rather quickly. Obviously the fires had NOT been properly put out.  You should always soak the fire and stir the ashes to make sure they are cool all the way the underlying dirt before leaving them unattended.

Set your thermostat to a comfortable temperature, so you will be able to snuggle into your comfy bed for a good night's rest after dinner.

From here you should be ready to enjoy your planned activities.

Basic Tent Camping

You don't need a lot to begin basic camping in a tent.  In fact, you don't even need a real tent!   You can make do with a tarp or an inexpensive tube tent.  Or you can just sleep in your car or even out under the stars. You can forgo the tent if you opt for a "cowboy bedroll".  You will need some bedding.  A sleeping bag is best, but some warm blankets and a light tarp may be sufficient in moderate weather.  You'll need a way to cook your meals.  You might get by with just a frying pan and a pot that you can use over a campfire.  A camp stove gives you more control and more options. During fire restrictions in many areas you won't be allowed to have an open fire.  You'll need some matches or a lighter to start your fire or light your stove.  You'll also find it more convenient after dark if you have a lantern or at least a flashlight so you can see what you're doing.

Choose a destination.  For your first night or two you might want to set up your tent in your own backyard until you are familiar with setting it up and comfortable sleeping in it.   Then venture a little further from home.   Get a spot in a local campground where you'll have access to water and toilets and probably have a picnic table and an approved fire pit where you can build a campfire.  Eventually you may be comfortable going out to more remote and primitive campsites where you can get the full primitive camping experience.

See my previous post Pre-trip Procedures for details on getting ready.  Preparation is the key to a fun and successful outing.  As the old saying goes, failing to plan is planning to fail.

You will most likely need an ice chest to keep perishable foods cold.   To start with you can get by with an inexpensive Styrofoam chest but if you intend to go camping often you'll want a sturdier plastic or metal ice chest.  Some of the better ice chests are rated to keep ice frozen for 5 days in 90° F temperatures.  A simple foam chest won't match that performance but should be adequate for at least an over nighter and maybe even for a weekend.  If you only bring MREs (Meals Ready to Eat) or dehydrated backpacking food or canned foods you won't really need an ice chest, but you WILL need it if you bring persishable items like meats and dairy items and you might want it to keep some drinks cool in hot weather.  If you're camping in bear country, a foam cooler offers NO protection from hungry bears.  Even metal coolers are vulnerable.  It is best to keep your cooler in your vehicle whenever possible.  If you're planning to have a campfire, load your firewood or plan to buy some at the camp store.  There are very few places where campers can collect firewood on site these days. Don't forget routine cleaning supplies, like soap, tooth paste, and dish soap.  If you take an prescription medications, make sure you bring an ample supply with you.  Some OTC pain relievers may also come in handy since you're likely to be involved in unfamiliar physical activities that may cause unusual aches and pains.  Even just sleeping on the ground can introduce pains you've never met before.  The firmest mattress is a lot softer and forgiving than even the most comfortable sleeping pads.

Once you've arrived at your destination, survey your campsite and select a location to set up your tent.  It should be level and relatively free of debris.  Determine the direction of prevailing winds if you can then try to set it up so it is upwind of your fire pit -- and any toilets or latrines.  Also try to face  the door out of prevailing winds.  Erect your tent according to manufacturer's instructions. And listen, guys. Reading the instructions doesn't make you any less macho, it just shows that you are smart -- and you will usually save a lot of time, frustration, and embarrassment.   If you're worried someone seeing you actually reading instructions might diminish your macho image, read them before hand and commit them to memory.   But, believe me, being caught reading instructions will be a lot less embarrassing than the fiasco you may encounter trying to set up camp in ignorance!  It is always a good idea to put a ground cloth down to set your tent on.  Once your tent is set up, roll out your sleeping pads and sleeping bags.  Not only will they then be ready when you're ready to hit the sack, they will have a chance to overcome having been tightly rolled.  Mats will lie flatter and sleeping bags will regain some of the "loft" squeezed out them while rolled, which is critical to staying warm and comfortable.

After setting up your tent, organize your camp kitchen.   Take advantage of available picnic tables if there are any.   Place your kitchen fairly close to your campfire, especially if you're going to be cooking on your campfire.   Have your water supply handy.  Stack your firewood a safe but convenient distance from your fire pit.  Prepare your campfire before it gets dark so all you have to do when its campfire time is to light your fire.

Pre-plan some campfire activities.   Some typical things people enjoy are singing and story telling.  Simple games like Charades are also fun.  Avoid complicated games that require a lot of setup or intricate equipment.  Playing cards or board games works best if the participants are seated around a table, not around a campfire.  And make sure you have adequate lighting for table games.  Avoid card games or other activities involving small, light weight objects if there is any breeze to contend with, unless you want to spend most of your time chasing the wind-blown items.

Most important of all: Enjoy your outing!

Camping is for ALL Ages

Are you ever too young or too old for camping?  The simple answer is "NO".  Of course there could be age-related health considerations that may alter your camping plans, but age alone should not be a deterrent.  Our kids started camping with us as newborns and now that my wife and I are both semi-retired we're still active campers, in our RV, truck camper, and in tents.   My grandmother traveled extensively in an RV with my Mom and Dad for many years when she was in her 70s and 80s.  I have an associate in the Utah Trail Machine Association who is in his late 70s and is still organizing and leading 2 week-long off-road rides a year in Mexico.   My grandmother enjoyed riding off road on the back of my enduro bike when she was 75.   I plan to still be riding when I reach 75 in the not-too-distant future.   After that I may shoot for a good trail ride for my 100th birthday!   I recently logged more than 50 miles on the trail on my 70th birthday.  I believe firmly in the saying "You don't stop riding because you get old. You get old because you stop riding."  That would apply to all forms of camping too.  My grandfather always said 'A man will rust out quicker than he'll wear out" and I firmly believe that is true.  I, for one, would rather wear out than rust out.  I've seen it happen over and over.  Those who retire from life when they retire from their full time jobs end up pushing up daisies much quicker than those who remain active.  While it may be argued that some people are able to remain active because they are good health, it can also be argued that staying active helps keep them in good health.

The age of people in your group may require you to make some special accommodations, but age doesn't rule out camping or RVing.  If you have young babies or elderly you may have to adjust your schedule sometimes to meet their peculiar needs.  You might need to adjust the temperature in your RV.  You may need to bring along special foods.  However, most of the changes you have to make will be no different than the adjustments you normally make at home.  As I recall (it has been some time now, all our kids are adults with families of their own), I think my wife sometimes retired early when we had babies on board.  I also recall her riding her dirt bike (carefully) around camp with a baby on her chest in "gerry carrier" sling and followed by several youngsters (ours and offspring of others in camp) on 50cc motorcycles.  I'm sure there are those who would be aghast at carrying a baby on a dirt bike, but she was and is a very capable and experienced rider and took no unusual risks.  The little ones were at least as safe as they would have been had she been wearing them in a similar manner grocery shopping, perhaps safer given how reckless some shoppers are with their shopping carts!  The closeness and bonding of having all of our children involved in all of our activities right from their beginnings is priceless and has helped create connections between siblings that endure to this day.  We have a blended family.  I had two sons from a previous marriage when my wife and were married.  Our youngest son eagerly volunteered to make a 2800 mile round trip from California to Texas when his older half-brother needed help.  None of our 6 kids have ever made any distinction between full and half siblings.  Our camping and dirt bike activities were a big part of building cohesive and enduring family relationships.  I recently also learned that dirt biking was a key factor in some of our kids avoiding recreational drugs.  The high from riding was so much better than any chemically induced state of mind.

I recently read that famous Supercross champion James "Bubba" Stewart's first dirt bike experience took place on his dad's lap when he was less than 48 hours old!  No wonder he went on to be a champion!

Let everyone participate in routine camp chores at whatever level they can.  Obviously babies are excluded from manual labor, but toddlers can share in a multitude of camp chores.   While babies may not be able to perform independent tasks having them together with the family during routine chores helps build relationships and keeps them from being or feeling excluded.  And they begin learning by observation.  My elderly grandmother was always included in preparing meals, something she had done all her life, was very good at, and loved to do.   Excluding her would have been cruel and unusual punishment as well as a big loss for the rest of us.   Everyone needs to feel useful. Don't just hand out trivial "make work" tasks.  Give each person something meaningful to do that is tailored to their capabilities.  There are always lots of things that need to be done while camping.  Sharing chores can make life easier for everyone and will help each individual feel productive and part of what is going on.  If a toddler only brings one small stick of wood to the campfire or picks up one piece of trash, it is actually is helpful and they will feel like they've done something useful.  Older campers with physical limitations are wonderful sources of campfire stories and make excellent consultants for tasks around camp.  My Grandmother's wisdom and humor were always a significant and enjoyable part of any outing.  Just because physical limitations may prevent them from actually performing tasks doesn't mean they can't be an extremely valuable source of information and direction.

Camping is ageless!

Bandanas For Camping and Boating

Bandannas are very useful for a variety of outdoor activities.  They are inexpensive, light weight, and versatile.  Bandanas can be useful for camping, hiking, boating fishing, hunting, horseback riding and riding OHVs, bicycles, and jet skis.  You can get them in almost any color to match or complement your wardrobe or riding gear.  There are special printed versions, shown a few paragraphs below, with first aid and survival instructions on them.  Here is a web page dedicated to Uses for Bandanas.   Be sure to scroll down far enough to see entire the list of more than 50 uses for bandanas.  Most common uses include tying them around your neck to protect your neck from sunburn and, when saturated with water, to aid in cooling your body and tying them around your head as a "do rag" to control your hair and keep sweat from dripping into your eyes.  They are also really handy for bandages and slings.

                                                    

A typical bandana is about 18" square.  In use it is usually folded diagonally to make a triangle. The triangle can be tied around your head as a head scarf or around your face bandit style to protect your nose and mouth from cold, snow, or dust.  These days it can even be used as a required COVID-19 facial covering.  You can tie the ends of the triangle together behind a victim's neck to make a sling.  You can wrap the bandana around body parts to hold a dressing in place over a wound.   You can roll the bandanna into a loose roll about 1 1/2" in diameter, wet it, and tie it around your neck in hot weather to protect your neck from sunburn and to cool you.  One of the reasons this works is it helps cool the blood as it passes close to the skin in the neck.  Most traditional bandanas have a kind of paisley pattern against the main background color but you can also find them in various camouflage colors and solid colors or with logos and other designs.  Another use for a rolled bandana is as a bandage to hold a dressing in place.  Remember, a dressing is the pad that covers a wound, a bandage is what holds it in place.  Band-aids are dressing and bandage all in one.

                                                       

Bandannas are not expensive.   They are typically around $1.00 each.  I've sometimes found them on sale 2 for $1.00.  This is one of the items I like to stock up on when I get the chance.  Even if you have enough for your own use, having some extras to loan to friends is kind of nice.  I like to have a choice of colors so I can coordinate my bandana with my riding gear or whatever casual clothes I happen to be wearing.   It can also be handy to color-coordinate different uses.   In proper use they can get dirty quite quickly, so having several to use during any given outing is a good idea.   They are light weight and don't take up a lot of room so they have little impact on space in your camping bins or your RV.  I like to keep a clean blue one for use with drinking water and other colors for headbands and other sweaty jobs.

Specialized bandanas, such a survival bandanas, first aid bananas, and knots bandanas are printed with pertinent information and will be more expensive than their generic counterparts.  They can act as a kind of manual to help you remember important skills and take up very little room in your pocket or pack.  They can, of course, be used for slings and bandages or signaling just as any other bandana.

               

Bandannas were adopted as gang colors by some urban gangs.   They wore them around their heads, tied around am arm or leg, or just hanging out of a pocket.  Wearing the wrong color in a neighborhood controlled by a rival gang could invite serious consequences.  Colors are usually not an issue in camping situations, but you might not want to wear red or blue, the colors of the "Bloods" and "Crips" gangs into a major city!  Wearing an opposing gang's colors when in the territory of a rival gang can trigger a violent and sometimes deadly reaction.

Some other uses of bandannas in a survival situation include water purification.  Hold a clean bandanna over a steaming pot of water until it is saturated, then wring it out to get safe drinking water.  It is a good idea to carry a specific bandanna for this purpose, one a different color than the one you wear.  Brightly colored bandannas can be used as a signal device to help rescuers locate lost parties.

Use a wet bandanna tied around your neck during hot weather to help keep you cool and to protect your neck from sunburn.  If you get lost or stranded in hot weather you might tie one or more to trees or bushes to give you a tiny little bit of shade..  One time you do not want to use a wet bandanna is if you are escaping from a fire!  The hot, moist air will sear your lungs.  

A clean bandanna can be used directly as a dressing on a wound or used as a bandage to secure a dressing or a splint or used as a sling to stabilize an injured arm.

When tying a bandanna as a head band, neck band.  or sling  you want to make sure the knot is secure but also want to be able to untie it when you need to remove it.  I usually use a square knot but don't pull it too tight.
   
Of course a bandanna can be used as a handkerchief to tame a runny nose or limit the spray from coughs an sneezes.   But you won't want to use it to dress a wound or filter your water after using it thusly without giving it a thorough washing first.  Another good reason to have -- and carry with you -- more than one.  Having several different colors makes it easy to keep track of which ones you are using for what purposes.

These days you can even use a bandanna as a face mask to meet government requirements for face coverings during the COVID-19 pandemic.  In the ''old days" bandits wore bandannas to hide their faces but during this COVID-19 situation they are acceptable, even required, for use by honest folks.

You might want to carry several bandannas of different colors.   They are inexpensive, light weight, take up little room, and are very versatile.  One source I read carries an orange one to use as an emergency signal and a blue one he uses only for filtering water.  Any other color might be used for a handkerchief, neck band, or head band.  Using this kind of logical color coding makes sense.  You might dedicate other colors for other uses so you don't end up filtering your water through one that has been used as a handkerchief or a sweat rag!

Tie one on!

Its Almost Winter Again!

My, how time flies!  So we must be having fun ("Time flies when you having fun").  Or as Kermit says "Time's fun when you're having flies."   Seems it was just the other day we were doing spring cleaning and getting ready for another camping season.  Now, it is mid September and as I look at the weather forecast, predicted overnight temperatures on the mountain where I am currently staying are rapidly approaching the freezing point.  We've even had a few snow flurries and the possibility of more snow in a day or so.  That means winterizing RVs or putting them in a heated garage to prevent freeze damage.   If you get a night or two of barely freezing temperatures with warmer days in between, full winterization may not be as critical as it is where you have sub-freezing temperatures (say 24° F or below) for days on end.  Then you MUST winterize your vehicle to prevent freeze damage.  Anything with water in it is subject to freeze damage.   That includes holding tanks, water lines, hoses, faucets, hot water heaters, water jugs, and even porta-pottys.  And make sure you remove any provisions that might freeze, like cans or bottles of soda, or you'll have a real mess next spring.  I try to make sure my RVs are winterized long before I get two or more nights at 24° F or below, as those temperatures are sure to start causing damage.

There are other posts on this blog and many excellent articles on other web sites that give detailed instructions on winterizing your RV so I won't repeat them here.  The point I want to make is it is time to start planning to winterize your rigs.   Remove provisions that could be damaged by freezing and properly protect all the water systems with appropriate antifreeze or by draining.   That means making sure engine coolant in motorhomes, generators, tow vehicles, and OHVs are properly protected with the right kind of antifreeze too.  Buy the RV antifreeze you need now before its all gone as "everyone" finally gets around to winterizing their boats and RVs.

What about "winterizing" yourself?  You probably need to drag out your warm winter clothes and snow boots and make sure they are in good condition to be used.  Hopefully you cleaned them and stored them properly, but they may still need to be aired out and you need to inspect them for insect or vermin infestations and damage.  If you live someplace with a true four-season environment you'll want to find or obtain thermal underwear and maybe some insulated socks.   Don't forget earmuffs or beanies to keep your ears from freezing.   A balaclava (face mask) is good to have to keep your face warm if you expect to be out in really cold weather or riding an OHV, snowmobile, or horse in cold weather.  Warm, water-resistant or water-proof gloves or mittens are essential for keeping your hands warm.  Some chemical heat pads like "Hot Hands" can help keep your fingers and toes and other body parts warm.   Mittens will keep your fingers warmer than gloves, but you sacrifice some dexterity.  One of my winter favorites is a "ushanka" -- a Russian ear hat, those furry hats with flaps that cover your ears, neck, and part of your cheeks.  I find them very good for winter and even for extra cool desert nights.

What about winter activities?   Weather will likely have a significant impact on the kinds of activities you choose for winter.  Depending on where you live and you might switch over to winter sports, like skiing, snowboarding, or snowmobiling.  Or you might just put your outdoor energy toward getting ready for next year.   Now is a good time to perform routine inspections and maintenance on your vehicles and your gear.   Even if the weather is bad outside you can work on your camping gear and OHVs inside.   If your garage isn't heated you might use your catalytic tent heater to take the chill off.   Just be sure you have adequate ventilation.  Go through your RV or camping gear.  Make sure everything you used last year got back where it belongs and is clean and in good shape for next season.   Check your supplies and replace used up, damaged, outdated or missing items.  Check your sources for camping gear to see what may be available at year end or end of season closeout prices to enhance next year's outings.  Close outs and clearances are a good time to stock up for next year.   You may be able to snag a good deal on some new gadget or piece of equipment you've been wanting or just stock up on expendables.  Be sure to check online resources like ebay and craigslist.   You might even find some stuff on Freecycle.com, a web site where people list things they want to get rid of.  You never know.  Someone may need to make room in their garage and have just the tent you're looking for and all you have to do is go pick it up!  Freecycle is an interesting way to recycle useful items.   You may find YOU have stuff you don't need anymore. Listing it on Freecycle.com may make it available to someone who can really use it and you don't have to hassle with setting prices or haggling with prospective buyers.   It sure beats throwing it in the trash!

Ready. Set. Snow!