You probably haven't given much thought to choosing kitchen utensils for camping. And that's OK. Most people have enough experience in the kitchen to know that they're going to need and just duplicate that, or as much as they think they'll need for camping. However, there are some choices for camping that work better than what you normally use at home and having dedicated utensils for camping will make loading and unloading for each trip easier. What you take with you may depend partially on whether you're in an RV or are tent camping. If you're in an RV, you probably want to maintain a pretty well stocked kitchen, similar to what you have at home. However, you may have space limitations. If you're tent camping, you may need to limit the amount of stuff you have to carry around. Even in an RV your drawer space will probably be a lot smaller than at home so you may want to downsize some items and seek multi-use tools to reduce how many things you have to sort through when you need something. You probably won't need everything you have at home. Your menus will, to some extent, dictate what utensils you will need. If you stick to a simple menu, you should be good to go with basic utensils. Another factor is the potential to be cooking on a campfire. For campfire cooking you will not only need fire resistant utensils, but you will probably want ones with extra long handles for safety and comfort. Plastic utensils that work just fine at home and may even be preferred for non-stick pans may not be the best choice for campfire cooking.
The biggest difference will be the need for durability and resistance to fire. The plastic utensils we favor to protect our Teflon cookware at home may not hold up to the rigors of camp cooking, especially if you're cooking on the campfire. Camping also brings frequent distractions and plastic utensils left in the pan may quickly begin to melt. I prefer solid stainless steel utensils, but steel items with wooden or heat-resistant plastic or wood handles usually work well, are sometimes less expensive, and last a long time if you keep the handles away from flames. Stainless steel items can get hot so you might need gloves or hotpads. Old-fashioned porcelain covered "speckleware" has a nice pioneer ambiance and works well for camping. I have a meat fork, serving spoon, and ladle in "speckleware" or "graniteware". I also have a set of speckleware soup spoons that are fun to use. For really heavy duty stainless steel utensils, check out a restaurant supply store. However, you probably don't need to invest that much. I've used the ones I bought at my local "dollar" store for decades without any problems. The only issue I've had, is my wife liked my ladle so well she commandeered it for the home kitchen and I had to find another one.
Which utensils you need will ultimately depend on your menus and cooking style, but here are some basics most everyone will find useful:
* cooking/serving spoons (I suggest at least 2)
* slotted spoon
* meat fork
* spatulas (again I suggest having 2)
* ladle
* paring knife
* small and medium butcher knives
* dish towels and/or paper towels
If you are into basting, you'll need a baster and/or a basting brush. I would get a plastic baster rather than a glass one since it is less fragile and less likely to break rattling around on the road. If you like spaghetti or pasta, a claw-style spaghetti spoon is good to have. You'll need some cutlery too. I like to have at least a couple of different sized butcher knives, a bread knife, and a paring knife or two. Having sharp instruments rattling around in the kitchen drawers dulls them and makes retrieving anything from the drawers dangerous so I like to keep them in one of the wood-block knife holders on the counter or in a cupboard and secure it with Velcro or small bungee cords. Another good way to keep them safe and handy is to store them on a magnetic knife rack. Or you can put protect each one in its individual PVC pipe container. Cut a section of PVC pipe a bit longer than the knife from pipe with an inside diameter big enough to accommodate the widest part of the blade and/or handle. Then cap it on both ends with PVC pipe caps, but don't glue them on! Then mark the pipe using a permanent marker so you know exactly what is inside (3" paring knife, 5" butcher knife, etc.). The only problem with this solution is it takes up more room in the drawer.
Make sure you have can and bottle openers. I once arrived in camp many miles from home and didn't realize until I started to fix some canned chili for dinner that I didn't have a can opener on board. Now I make sure I have manual can opener in my motorhome, in my truck camper, and in my tent camping tub. And I carry a supply of Army "P-38" or "P-51"can openers. They are small and sometimes difficult to use, but they are better than trying to open a can with a pocket knife. P-38 and P-51 can openers are especially convenient for hiking and back packing but are a handy addition to any camp kit. They take up almost no room. P-38s are about 1 1/2" x 1/2".The P-51s are larger, giving you a bit more leverage. Either one can be carried on a key ring with your keys but I found the sharp edge sometimes cut my pockets.
Measuring cups have many uses in camp. Most sets stack within themselves so they take up little room but collapsible measure cups are even more compact. They can even be hung on the inside of an RV or chuck box cabinet door for convenient access without taking up much usable space.
An item I've seen promoted as the best kitchen utensil ever for RV use is a pot strainer. This is a flat, crescent shaped strainer with a handle that you can use on just about any pot or pan, eliminating the need for a collander or bulky strainer. Would be really handy if you cook a lot of pasta.
Having dedicated utensils for camping adds convenience and helps reduce the possibility of forgetting something you need. I have a Class A motorhome, a truck camper, and a tent camping setup and I keep all three stocked separately so I'll have what I need when I need it without having to remember to transfer things for each outing. My RV and camper stuff is conveniently stored in the galley cabinets and drawers. Our sailboat has its own sliding galley made from a chuck box that we keep fully stocked. Tent camping utensils reside in a translucent plastic tubs that are easy to transport to the campsite and keeps things clean and sanitary in camp and between trips. I know for sure from experience that if I have to switch things around for each trip, I will forget something!
Don't let these recommendations keep you from camping with what you have on hand. If dedicated utensils for camping aren't in your budget yet or you don't have time to get them before your trip, borrow from your kitchen and hit the road. Just be careful that you don't destroy or lose your home utensils in camp. When you are ready to buy a set of utensils dedicated to camping, check our your local dollar store or thrift store before spending lots of money in department or restaurant supply stores. That way, if something does get lost or destroyed, you're not out a lot of money and can easily replace it. Sometimes it makes sense to upgrade your home cookware and re-purpose the old stuff for camping. Also, before you head to the store, be sure to check out what you have on hand. If you have duplicates you can spare or some old stuff you were saving to give to charity, you may be able to fill your camping needs without spending any money. If painted handles have worn you can easily sand them down and repaint them to give them new life in your camp kit. That way you can even make a matching set out of a bunch of odds and ends. Using a unique color will also help you keep track of your stuff in camp and avoid getting them confused with other people's stuff or with the stuff you use at home.
Camp cooking is fun!
Information on recreational vehicles (RVs) and Off Highway Vehicles (OHVs), Camping, Sailing, and Survival
Tuesday, October 30, 2012
Sunday, October 28, 2012
Remote or Primitive Tent Camping
Tent camping offers opportunities to REALLY get "off the grid". You can start by car camping in remote or primitive campgrounds. If you really want to get away from it all, try back packing, hiking in, or horse camping. Remote camping lets you experience nature in ways you cannot in developed areas. The proximity of other campers in campgrounds often disturbs the peace and tranquility you might be seeking. Light pollution is another problem in many developed campgrounds. Light from offices, camp stores, street and parking lot lighting, nearby communities, and other camp sites can inhibit your view of the stars. It is surprising how far the glow from city lights will extend into the surrounding countryside, especially when the sky is overcast so it reflects off the clouds. Getting out into raw country minimizes these problems. Unless you depend on getting your water from the campground and prefer even smelly pit toilets to digging your own latrines, tent campers have no need to be tied to developed campgrounds.
Primitive car camping is a good way to start remote camping. You may choose remote Forest Service campgrounds or even seek out open camping areas on completely unimproved BLM and Forest Service lands. The biggest difference between really boondocking in a tent and staying in a primitive campground is that most campgrounds have a source of water and at least pit toilets, if not flush toilets or even complete restrooms with showers. When really roughing it in undeveloped, open camping areas, you'll have to bring along all your own water and may have to dig your own latrines. Developed campgrounds usually have fire rings or fire pits for your use at each designated camp site. In an undeveloped area you may have to build your own fire pit. If you are camping in an area where others have camped before, take advantage of any fire pit that may already exist. If you have to build your own, do it right. Clear the ground where you're going to build your fire and at least 5' all around it of any combustible material. Create a ring of rocks or dig a hole and make a berm around it to contain your fire. In some popular primitive camping areas you may find rock fire pits left behind by previous campers. Try to take advantage of these whenever you can. It will save you time and effort and reduce your impact on the environment. If you are creating a new fire pit, make sure it is far enough way from trees and bushes to be safe -- and that there will be room for you and your companions to move safely around the fire. Build it downwind from your tent and vehicles so blowing sparks don't create a fire hazard. Be sure to observe all fire safety practices. Check on fire conditions BEFORE you build any fire in a remote location. Be sure to check on whether there are any fire restrictions in effect. Open fires except in approved fire pits are often prohibited during fire season. When you go completely off grid you'll have to provide for your own sanitation needs. That usually means digging a latrine but some campers prefer to bring along a folding portable toilet. It makes "going" more comfortable but you have to deal with disposing of the waste collected in plastic bags.
You may be able to drive right to a remote campsite in some forest service and BLM areas. That may give you the best combination of getting away from civilization but not having to pack a lot of equipment very far on your own back. Some forest service campgrounds provide fairly good privacy and separation from other camp sites. In places like that you can have the best of both worlds -- a primitive camping experience but still have access to safe potable water and maybe pit or even flush toilets.
In most primitive camping areas you'll have to deal with rocks, twigs, and other debris that could damage your tent floor or interfere with a good night's sleep. With that in mind,it is a good idea to bring a small, collapsible rake so you can clear your spot before you set up your tent. Using a site that has been used before may give you a spot where someone else has already cleared the debris.
For the utlimate natural experience, back packing combines hiking and camping and gives you really good chance to practice your survival skills. For back packing you'll need light weight gear -- tent, sleeping bag and a single-burner back-packing stove. You can forgo the stove if you can do all your cooking on a campfire. Fire restrictions may prohibit open fires, so be sure to check with the local ranger before you hit the trail. You will want to pack some extra clothes in case you get caught in a sudden storm and what you're wearing gets wet. It is also nice to have something to wear while you rinse out the clothes you've been hiking in for days before they take on a life of their own. Dehydrated meals are compact, light weight, and easy to prepare on the trail, but they are somewhat expensive. Military "MREs" (Meals Ready to Eat) are also popular choices but can also be kind of pricey and a little heavy and bulky to carry. If you'll be hiking in an area with lakes or streams you might be able to catch your dinner. Unless you are really good at foraging or fishing you'll need to bring along enough food for your entire trip. Energy bars are sometimes adequate for lunches and can give you a much needed afternoon boost from time to time. When planning a back packing trip, be sure to do your homework. Know your routes. Carefully plan your menus and calculate your water needs. Unless there is proven safe potable water along the trail you'll have to find a way to carry all you need with you or be prepared to purify available water along the way.
Horse camping offers a chance to explore a cowboy experience. Horse camping can give you greater range than back packing and you can usually take more food and equipment along, especially if you have a pack horse. Cowboys got by with what they carried on their saddles, usually a canteen, a bedroll, and what would fit in their saddle bags. A cowboy bedroll is a canvas enclosed sleeping cocoon. The canvas protects you from ground moisture and from rain. Cowboys usually didn't carry tents, but you can always tuck a back packing tent into your bedroll or saddle bags or carry a larger tent on a pack horse. There are detailed instructions on the Internet for making your own cowboy bedroll or you an buy one for around $100. Depending on availability of pasture for your horses along the trail you may need to carry feed for them as well. You will need to provide a way to keep them from wandering off when you camp. Hobbles will restrict how quickly they can move. Some trail systems that cater to horse back riders have corrals along the way or you might make your own from fallen timber or even just rope. A common way of tethering horses is a "high line" -- a rope to which horses are tethered with a long enough lead to allow them to graze. A battery-powered electric fence is also a modern option. For a true cowboy experience, plan on doing all your cooking on the campfire. For more convenience, bring along a back packing stove. If you have an extra horse and a pack saddle, you may be able to bring along a little more equipment and creature comforts than you could carry in your saddle bags.
Camp OUT!
Primitive car camping is a good way to start remote camping. You may choose remote Forest Service campgrounds or even seek out open camping areas on completely unimproved BLM and Forest Service lands. The biggest difference between really boondocking in a tent and staying in a primitive campground is that most campgrounds have a source of water and at least pit toilets, if not flush toilets or even complete restrooms with showers. When really roughing it in undeveloped, open camping areas, you'll have to bring along all your own water and may have to dig your own latrines. Developed campgrounds usually have fire rings or fire pits for your use at each designated camp site. In an undeveloped area you may have to build your own fire pit. If you are camping in an area where others have camped before, take advantage of any fire pit that may already exist. If you have to build your own, do it right. Clear the ground where you're going to build your fire and at least 5' all around it of any combustible material. Create a ring of rocks or dig a hole and make a berm around it to contain your fire. In some popular primitive camping areas you may find rock fire pits left behind by previous campers. Try to take advantage of these whenever you can. It will save you time and effort and reduce your impact on the environment. If you are creating a new fire pit, make sure it is far enough way from trees and bushes to be safe -- and that there will be room for you and your companions to move safely around the fire. Build it downwind from your tent and vehicles so blowing sparks don't create a fire hazard. Be sure to observe all fire safety practices. Check on fire conditions BEFORE you build any fire in a remote location. Be sure to check on whether there are any fire restrictions in effect. Open fires except in approved fire pits are often prohibited during fire season. When you go completely off grid you'll have to provide for your own sanitation needs. That usually means digging a latrine but some campers prefer to bring along a folding portable toilet. It makes "going" more comfortable but you have to deal with disposing of the waste collected in plastic bags.
You may be able to drive right to a remote campsite in some forest service and BLM areas. That may give you the best combination of getting away from civilization but not having to pack a lot of equipment very far on your own back. Some forest service campgrounds provide fairly good privacy and separation from other camp sites. In places like that you can have the best of both worlds -- a primitive camping experience but still have access to safe potable water and maybe pit or even flush toilets.
In most primitive camping areas you'll have to deal with rocks, twigs, and other debris that could damage your tent floor or interfere with a good night's sleep. With that in mind,it is a good idea to bring a small, collapsible rake so you can clear your spot before you set up your tent. Using a site that has been used before may give you a spot where someone else has already cleared the debris.
For the utlimate natural experience, back packing combines hiking and camping and gives you really good chance to practice your survival skills. For back packing you'll need light weight gear -- tent, sleeping bag and a single-burner back-packing stove. You can forgo the stove if you can do all your cooking on a campfire. Fire restrictions may prohibit open fires, so be sure to check with the local ranger before you hit the trail. You will want to pack some extra clothes in case you get caught in a sudden storm and what you're wearing gets wet. It is also nice to have something to wear while you rinse out the clothes you've been hiking in for days before they take on a life of their own. Dehydrated meals are compact, light weight, and easy to prepare on the trail, but they are somewhat expensive. Military "MREs" (Meals Ready to Eat) are also popular choices but can also be kind of pricey and a little heavy and bulky to carry. If you'll be hiking in an area with lakes or streams you might be able to catch your dinner. Unless you are really good at foraging or fishing you'll need to bring along enough food for your entire trip. Energy bars are sometimes adequate for lunches and can give you a much needed afternoon boost from time to time. When planning a back packing trip, be sure to do your homework. Know your routes. Carefully plan your menus and calculate your water needs. Unless there is proven safe potable water along the trail you'll have to find a way to carry all you need with you or be prepared to purify available water along the way.
Horse camping offers a chance to explore a cowboy experience. Horse camping can give you greater range than back packing and you can usually take more food and equipment along, especially if you have a pack horse. Cowboys got by with what they carried on their saddles, usually a canteen, a bedroll, and what would fit in their saddle bags. A cowboy bedroll is a canvas enclosed sleeping cocoon. The canvas protects you from ground moisture and from rain. Cowboys usually didn't carry tents, but you can always tuck a back packing tent into your bedroll or saddle bags or carry a larger tent on a pack horse. There are detailed instructions on the Internet for making your own cowboy bedroll or you an buy one for around $100. Depending on availability of pasture for your horses along the trail you may need to carry feed for them as well. You will need to provide a way to keep them from wandering off when you camp. Hobbles will restrict how quickly they can move. Some trail systems that cater to horse back riders have corrals along the way or you might make your own from fallen timber or even just rope. A common way of tethering horses is a "high line" -- a rope to which horses are tethered with a long enough lead to allow them to graze. A battery-powered electric fence is also a modern option. For a true cowboy experience, plan on doing all your cooking on the campfire. For more convenience, bring along a back packing stove. If you have an extra horse and a pack saddle, you may be able to bring along a little more equipment and creature comforts than you could carry in your saddle bags.
Camp OUT!
Tent Camping in Campgrounds
Tent camping in campgrounds has several advantages and a few disadvantages. Campgrounds usually provide level, often grassy spaces, free of debris to set up your tent. You will usually have designated parking places that are paved or at least graveled, close to where you will set up your tent so you don't have to carry your stuff too far. Very often there will be community water spigots where you can get water as you need it. There may be toilets, sometimes even full service bathrooms with hot showers but sometimes just primitive pit toilets. But that still beats digging your own latrine! Some campgrounds provide an area with sinks and counter space where you can wash your dishes. Campgrounds will usually provide picnic tables and approved fire pits. What is special about an approved fire pit? Well, it has been constructed according to Forest Service standards and has been inspected and approved for use. Forest areas often come under fire restrictions during hot, dry summer months when fires are only allowed in approved fire pits. The fine for having an open fire in a restricted area can be very heavy and the penalties for allowing your unapproved fire to get away from you and start a brush fire or forest fire can run into the millions of dollars in fire fighting costs and property damage which you could be ordered to pay for!
Access to campgrounds is usually via good roads making them within easy reach by family car. Primitive/remote sites may be require more rugged transportation to be reached. If you are planning to camp "off road" you may need a high-clearance 4 wheel drive vehicle just to get there.
Campgrounds may also give you access to camp stores and local businesses in case you need some supplies and to a ranger or camp host who is knowledgeable about the area and can give excellent advice regarding trails, activities, and even weather. You will also have fellow campers around you who can be a good source of information and assistance. Most campgrounds try to have at least some shade, natural or artificial (canopy) for your comfort.
Disadvantages mostly consist of increased proximity to civilization, including fellow campers, that can intrude on your solitude if you are seeking a truly pristine camping experience. Light from parking lots, streets, and nearby businesses may limit your view of the night sky. You might experience "noise pollution" from nearby highways, railroads, or large event venues. Some frequently used camp sites may suffer from abuse. You may encounter dirty or damaged tables, left behind trash, non-combustibles in the fire pit, and nasty bathrooms.. Of course, if everyone observed proper camping etiquette, you wouldn't run into these problems, but, unfortunately, not everyone is as considerate as they should be. Sites in some campgrounds may be closer together than you might like. And, of course, you must pay a fee to use most developed campgrounds, especially if there are amenities for your convenience.
Unless you are in an open camping area you will be in a designated site. Be careful to keep your stuff within your designated area and not intrude on space allocated to other campers. It is also a good idea in open or primitive camping areas to keep all your belongings close. Not only is it more considerate to other campers, it keeps them more convenient for your use and allows you to maintain better security over your things.
Some commercial campgrounds include many resort style amenities. Some typical examples are badminton, table tennis, shuffle board, swimming pools, bathrooms, showers, camp store, and restaurant.
Some, but not all, campgrounds accommodate both RVs and tent campers. Many Forest Service Campgrounds do not allow RVs. Some RV parks do not allow tent camping. Don't just assume you can set up your tent in an RV space. You may get an unexpected visit from local law enforcement -- or at least the camp host evicting you! If you do occupy an RV space expect to pay the standard RV rate unless told otherwise.
Happy camping!
Access to campgrounds is usually via good roads making them within easy reach by family car. Primitive/remote sites may be require more rugged transportation to be reached. If you are planning to camp "off road" you may need a high-clearance 4 wheel drive vehicle just to get there.
Campgrounds may also give you access to camp stores and local businesses in case you need some supplies and to a ranger or camp host who is knowledgeable about the area and can give excellent advice regarding trails, activities, and even weather. You will also have fellow campers around you who can be a good source of information and assistance. Most campgrounds try to have at least some shade, natural or artificial (canopy) for your comfort.
Disadvantages mostly consist of increased proximity to civilization, including fellow campers, that can intrude on your solitude if you are seeking a truly pristine camping experience. Light from parking lots, streets, and nearby businesses may limit your view of the night sky. You might experience "noise pollution" from nearby highways, railroads, or large event venues. Some frequently used camp sites may suffer from abuse. You may encounter dirty or damaged tables, left behind trash, non-combustibles in the fire pit, and nasty bathrooms.. Of course, if everyone observed proper camping etiquette, you wouldn't run into these problems, but, unfortunately, not everyone is as considerate as they should be. Sites in some campgrounds may be closer together than you might like. And, of course, you must pay a fee to use most developed campgrounds, especially if there are amenities for your convenience.
Unless you are in an open camping area you will be in a designated site. Be careful to keep your stuff within your designated area and not intrude on space allocated to other campers. It is also a good idea in open or primitive camping areas to keep all your belongings close. Not only is it more considerate to other campers, it keeps them more convenient for your use and allows you to maintain better security over your things.
Some commercial campgrounds include many resort style amenities. Some typical examples are badminton, table tennis, shuffle board, swimming pools, bathrooms, showers, camp store, and restaurant.
Some, but not all, campgrounds accommodate both RVs and tent campers. Many Forest Service Campgrounds do not allow RVs. Some RV parks do not allow tent camping. Don't just assume you can set up your tent in an RV space. You may get an unexpected visit from local law enforcement -- or at least the camp host evicting you! If you do occupy an RV space expect to pay the standard RV rate unless told otherwise.
Happy camping!
Friday, October 26, 2012
RV Camping Without Hookups (Boondocking)
Camping without hookups is often called "dry camping", "camping off the grid", or "boondocking". While technically you are "dry camping" if you stop in a rest area or a Walmart parking lot, it is usually used to describe more extensive camping in a remote, primitive camping area. In some cases there may be designated camp sites but no hook ups, as is sometimes the case in primitive Forest Service campgrounds. Very often, boondocking occurs on BLM or other public lands in open or dispersed camping areas where there are no designated camp sites. The same principles of self-contained operation apply any time you aren't where you have full hookups. Boondocking is probably more different from using commercial campgrounds with hook ups for RVers than it is for tent campers. Tent campers usually don't rely too much on camp ground amenities, although they do often benefit from water and sanitation stations and sometimes even electricity. The ability to go boondocking is a major consideration for most people who buy RVs, even though something like 70% of RV owners report that they mostly stay in full hook-up campgrounds. Personally, in more than 30 years of RVing I have seldom stayed in a full hook-up campground. When our kids were growing up we spent almost every holiday weekend boondocking and dirt biking in the Mojave Desert.
Even though surveys show about 3/4s of all RV owners camp in full hookup campgrounds, those same owners chose RVs that are self contained and capable of camping "off grid". My family and most of my camping buddies are in the other 25%, mostly boondocking in remote areas where we can ride our OHVs and being self contained is essential.
One of the first considerations for boondocking is where to go. Some forest service campgrounds accept RVs but have no hook-ups. In Western states there are many open camping areas on BLM land where you can camp virtually anywhere. Be aware that some locations do restrict camping to designated areas so be sure to verify your options BEFORE you go. In primitive forest service campgrounds the spaces will usually be clearly designated and marked. In some USFS domains camping is allowed within 150' of any Forest Service Road, but always check with the local ranger station before blithely driving off the road somewhere. Rangers can usually guide you to the best places even when there are no specific restrictions. That can mean safer and easier access for your RV and to various trails and activities. In open camping areas you can choose where to set up camp. Try first to use areas that have been used before. Doing so usually makes your setup easier and minimizes the impact on the environment. Using an existing site usually means someone else has already taken to time to locate the most level spots for RVs or setting up tents and may have already created a rock fire pit. It usually means there is reasonably good access so you won't get stuck or damage your vehicle. If you have to set up in a pristine location, it is a good idea to walk the site before you drive onto it to avoid unnecessary damage to both your vehicle and the site. Having a wheel drop into a gopher hole or tunnel could damage your rig and/or get you stuck. Rocks hidden in the brush might bend wheels, damage suspension, or poke holes in transmission pans or oil pans Figure out the best place to park, where you want to set up your tent, if you're using one, where you want your picnic table and where to build your campfire. If you can determine the direction of prevailing winds, try to park with your vehicle nosed into the wind. Some beach areas offer off-grid camping. There are several wonderful places along Highway 1 on the California coast that we have enjoyed. Open camping directly on the beach is often prohibited but if access is allowed, exercise caution to avoid getting stuck in the sand or damaging your tires on buried obstacles such as broken bottles.
If you are camping with a group, make sure you pick a spot with sufficient room for everyone. The best way to organize a group camp is the old wagon train format and "circle the wagons", with individual RVs or tents surrounding a central common campfire and group meeting area. It is most convenient if all the doors face the center of the circle where you will most likely build a communal campfire, but facing the front of vehicles into the circle might allow you to get more rigs around the campfire. Parking with the door to toward the center puts everyone's awning and patio space where they can view each other and share in the festivities. It also makes your access to the campfire better.
Choosing your camp site. When camping in hot weather it is always nice to have a shady campsite. Of course you aren't going to find much shade in the desert! Shade is your friend, regardless of whether you're camping a tent or an RV. Because many RVs have air conditioners, having a shady place to set up your tent will be more important than a shady place to park your RV. However, having shade for outdoor leisure activities will always be helpful in warmer weather. The only time you may want to avoid shade is if it is provided by a single tall tree that might attract lightning if there are any storms in the forecast. Camping under trees can also be hazardous if you get wind, which can cause dead branches to come crashing down on you. Another major consideration will be choosing a site that will not be in danger of flooding if there you get any rain -- locally or in nearby mountains. Avoid putting your tent or your RV in depressions that may collect water if it rains and don't ever camp in a dry wash or old stream bed. Even areas that appear to be fairly "high and dry" may be subject to runoff when it rains. I have gotten up some mornings to find the grass mat under my awning all but completely buried in mud when the previous nights' rain created enough run off to deliver a powerful stream under my RV. Although it wasn't obvious until it rained, we were parked smack in the main path of run off from nearby hills. Had I set a up a tent in the same location it would undoubtedly been flooded out during the rain.
If you are tent camping in a primitive area, your main concerns that will be different than camping in a developed campground, will be water and sanitation. You may also have to build your own fire pit (see previous post on Campfire Safety). Since there won't be a handy faucet to re-fill your water jugs, you'll need to bring along enough to last your entire trip. Lacking access to even a primitive pit toilet, you'll have to provide your own latrine. A "porta-potty" is a convenient, portable toilet that is especially appreciated by the ladies. The only drawbacks are they can be heavy, take up space, and the capacity is very limited so they have to be dumped regularly. If you don't have access to a dump station or a toilet you can haul your porta-potty to, you may fill it long before your trip is over. Other options include a simple portable toilet that consists of a toilet seat with legs like a camp stool. Plastic bags are attached to the bottom to capture the waste. You then seal the bags with twist ties and dispose of them when you have access to appropriate facilities to do so. In a more primitive situation, you will need to dig your own latrine, if doing so isn't prohibited by local regulations. If you are going to be camped in the same place for several days, you may want to make a multiple use latrine. Dig a hole or trench a safe distance from camp, trails, roads, and water sources -- always at least 200 feet from any water. Choose a spot where trees, bushes, or rocks provide some natural cover for privacy or erect a temporary shelter, such as a shower enclosure. For comfort and convenience you might want to use logs or poles to make a seat over the trench or modify a camp chair. Leave a shovel at the latrine so each user can shovel some dirt over their "deposits". Then at the end of your outing, be sure to cover the trench completely. For short term needs, dig a small hole for individual uses and cover it over immediately when you are done. Never dig a latrine near any well, lake, spring, or stream. Make sure you are at least 200 feet from any water source. Squatting over a hole is not comfortable for most people in Western society , but it is actually a fairly natural position for complete evacuation. It just takes some getting used to for most modern humans who are accustomed to sitting on the "throne".
Boondocking in an RV requires conservation of resources if you want to retain the benefits of your RV. The three major concerns are battery power, water, and holding tanks. If you use water and partially fill your holding tanks on the way to your primitive site, stop and dump your tanks and refill your fresh water as close to your site as possible before you arrive. Also make sure your batteries area fully charged either by using a battery charger before you leave home or by them charging while you're driving.
If you run your batteries down you won't have light and, if your furnace has a fan, you won't have any heat so you need to maintain your batteries. Many modern propane appliances have a circuit board that also requires 12-volt power for the appliance to operate. Start off your trip with your batteries fully charged. Then run the vehicle engine or the on board generator to charge the batteries each day. The vehicle alternator is usually the best option for charging your batteries. The vehicle alternator is higher amperage and has regulated voltage whereas the battery chargers in most converters and in many automotive battery chargers are lower amperage and unregulated. Unregulated chargers can fry your batteries. Usually running your vehicle for about an hour will bring your batteries back up to full charge. Running the vehicle engine at idle will probably use about the same amount of gas as running the generator to charge your batteries. I have an automatic battery charger set up so whenever I have 120 volt power it charges my batteries. That way, when I run the generator for any reason (power A/C, run microwave, operate entertainment systems) the batteries are charging. Conserve battery power by limiting the use of 12 volt lighting and appliances. LED lights use a whole lot less power than standard incandescent bulbs, but today they are still a little pricey in the first place. Use your gas lanterns or battery powered lanterns and flashlights whenever you can. Schedule your activities to take advantage of daylight hours or take advantage of moonlight or light from your campfire. Candles and torches might be used to illuminate campsites, giving a comfortable, almost romantic ambiance. Solar panels are sometimes a good way to maintain your batteries but you'll need some large panels, not just the little 4"x8" panels that plug into your cigarette lighter.
Your next most important resource is water. You have a limited supply of water in your fresh water tank. You can supplement that by bringing jugs, jerry cans, drums, or collapsible bladders of additional water and adding them to your tank as needed. If you RV doesn't have a gravity fill port, you may need to rig a portable pump to transfer water from you backup supply to your tank. If you have a ladder to get on the roof of your RV you might be able to carry your spare water up there and let gravity fill your fresh water tank. However, water is very heavy and carrying it on the roof isn't the best idea. Conserve water as much as possible. Save the water from the shower in jugs or a dishpan when it is running to warm up and use that for other routine tasks. Wipe off dishes with a paper towel or crumpled newspaper instead of rinsing them. When washing or showering, only run the water as needed to wet your hands, face, or body or to rinse off the soap. Turn the water off while you're lathering and scrubbing. If your RV doesn't have a shutoff on the shower head you can usually add one fairly easily and economically. You might even try developing good water conservation habits at home. It may be convenient but it is just a waste of water to let the faucet run while you're brushing your teeth. You probably won't see a noticeable difference in your water bill, but creating a habit of conservation will be helpful when you go camping where it definitely will make a difference.
Limiting water usage will also help with the third concern: filling holding tanks. By limiting water usage you will automatically reduce filling of your holding tanks. You may be able to get rid of some of the water from your gray water tank by using it to put out your campfire each evening. DO NOT use sewage from the black water tank! Its is unsanitary as well as very unpleasant and in most places is illegal. Avoid using the toilet in your RV when you can. IF there are pit toilets nearby, take advantage of them. Sometimes they smell really bad, but better to endure a few minutes in a bad smelling toilet than to have your black water tank back up and make your whole RV smell really bad for a really long time -- or have your tanks fill up and not be able to use the toilet at all! Using an outside latrine, just like tent campers, is an option and one you may be reduced to if you fill your holding tanks. There is some debate over whether it is better to send the guys out in remote locations to "water a dry bush" and conserve holding tank space or allow the liquid to help break down solid wastes. I usually vote for conserving the space when boondocking. The ladies in your group will appreciate your not filling the holding tanks too quickly! For best results, try to monitor the liquid level in your black water tank. If solids are piling up on the bottom of the thank, you'll need more liquid to maintain normal septic tank functions to break down waste and control odor as well as to facilitate dumping. How do you monitor liquid in the black water tank? About the only way is to open the toilet valve and look inside. Yccch! Not a pleasant task, but better than suffering the consequences of over filling or too much waste build up. Or just eyeball it each time you flush the toilet so you know how its doing throughout your trip. If you begin to see solid wastes piling up, drain a bucket or two of water off your gray water tank and dump it down the toilet.
Fuel is another resource you need to keep an eye on. If your on board generator uses the same fuel as the vehicle engine, the tap for the generator fuel line is usually situated higher in the tank than the motor fuel line so you don't run yourself completely out of fuel using the generator. Bring along extra fuel if you have any doubts about how long your fuel will last. Propane for you stove, furnace, refrigerator, and hot water heater is another limited resource. Use all appliances as sparingly as possible. Shut off the hot water heater when hot water is not needed for a while (like over night). There is some difference of opinion about shutting off the hot water heater. Some folks believe it will take less fuel to maintain it over night instead of re-heating it every morning. Personally, I like having hot water available all the time and not having to remember to turn it back on and then wait for it to heat to shower or shave in the morning. If you're particularly concerned about the subject, perform your own experiments and see what works best for you. Make sure your RV is well insulated and not drafty and windows and doors are closed on cool nights so your furnace doesn't run unnecessarily; limit opening the fridge. Only light the stove burners as you need them and turn them off as soon as you're done. If your stove has pilot lights, turn off the pilots when you're not using the stove. Speaking of fuel, make sure you have enough fuel to make the round trip to your remote destination. If there is any question of running out of fuel, top off your fuel tanks as close to your destination as you can get and carry extra fuel. For travel trailers you can simply bring extra propane tanks. Motorhomes with permanently mounted propane tanks can be fitted with an "Extend-a-Stay" kit that allows you to tap into an external propane tank to augment your on board tank.
Energy conservation is a usually a primary concern for both RVers and tent campers. You can minimize use of lantern fuel and battery power for lighting by matching your schedule to daylight and making use of natural light as much as possible. Conserve cooking fuels by only using stoves when actively cooking. If your RV range has pilot lights, turn them off between uses. If you choose to stay up after dark, focus on light-free activities like star-gazing or work by the light of your campfire. Of course you may need to ration your firewood too, since there are few places remaining where it is legal to gather firewood and where it is, it will probably be pretty well cleared out. One word of caution: these systems will not provide extra propane to operate a propane powered generator like those sometimes found on diesel motorhomes. The extended tanks provide vapor only and the generator requires liquied propane.
You will need to plan your provisions to make it through your entire outing without having to go to the store. Plan all your meals in advance and be frugal in your use of basic ingredients so they'll last the whole trip. Prepare foods only as you need them to avoid waste. You can save chili and stew and re-heat it for a second meal, but making too many pancakes or scrambled eggs would probably be a waste.
You may have cell phone access in some remote areas, but don't count on it. Sometimes you can increase your range by using an external antenna instead of just the tiny little one on the phone. An antenna mounted on the roof of your RV just might be enough higher and more powerful to work when standing on the ground doesn't. Of course you can try standing on the roof of your RV for emergency communications. There are also booster systems you can buy but they are pretty expensive. Many of the more recent cell phones lack an external antenna connection so check whether yours does or not before putting out money for an external antenna. Booster systems are often wireless so it doesn't matter whether your phone has an external zntenna port.
Local TV channels are available in some areas, but given that boondocking usually implies going out to some remote location, reception may be very limited. Local channels are usually picked up using a 'bat wing' antenna installed on the roof and operated via inside controls that crank it up and rotate it to obtain the best signal. Most include a signal booster to give you better range.
Satellite TV channels can be accessed using a dish on or beside your RV anytime you have a clear view of the southern sky. This usually isn't a problem when camping in the desert or on the beach, but could be in the forest or mountains. Some high end models have automatic tracking devices but you will need to manually align most satellite dishes so you need a little booklet to tell you about where to initially aim your dish. There are fairly inexpensive aiming devices that make it a lot easier to align your satellite dish. Bring along your favorite tapes or DVDs just in case. High-end satellite systems can even be used on the road, but, of course, the extra tracking and aiming components make them a lot more expensive than manual systems.
Camping off the grid is fun!
Even though surveys show about 3/4s of all RV owners camp in full hookup campgrounds, those same owners chose RVs that are self contained and capable of camping "off grid". My family and most of my camping buddies are in the other 25%, mostly boondocking in remote areas where we can ride our OHVs and being self contained is essential.
One of the first considerations for boondocking is where to go. Some forest service campgrounds accept RVs but have no hook-ups. In Western states there are many open camping areas on BLM land where you can camp virtually anywhere. Be aware that some locations do restrict camping to designated areas so be sure to verify your options BEFORE you go. In primitive forest service campgrounds the spaces will usually be clearly designated and marked. In some USFS domains camping is allowed within 150' of any Forest Service Road, but always check with the local ranger station before blithely driving off the road somewhere. Rangers can usually guide you to the best places even when there are no specific restrictions. That can mean safer and easier access for your RV and to various trails and activities. In open camping areas you can choose where to set up camp. Try first to use areas that have been used before. Doing so usually makes your setup easier and minimizes the impact on the environment. Using an existing site usually means someone else has already taken to time to locate the most level spots for RVs or setting up tents and may have already created a rock fire pit. It usually means there is reasonably good access so you won't get stuck or damage your vehicle. If you have to set up in a pristine location, it is a good idea to walk the site before you drive onto it to avoid unnecessary damage to both your vehicle and the site. Having a wheel drop into a gopher hole or tunnel could damage your rig and/or get you stuck. Rocks hidden in the brush might bend wheels, damage suspension, or poke holes in transmission pans or oil pans Figure out the best place to park, where you want to set up your tent, if you're using one, where you want your picnic table and where to build your campfire. If you can determine the direction of prevailing winds, try to park with your vehicle nosed into the wind. Some beach areas offer off-grid camping. There are several wonderful places along Highway 1 on the California coast that we have enjoyed. Open camping directly on the beach is often prohibited but if access is allowed, exercise caution to avoid getting stuck in the sand or damaging your tires on buried obstacles such as broken bottles.
If you are camping with a group, make sure you pick a spot with sufficient room for everyone. The best way to organize a group camp is the old wagon train format and "circle the wagons", with individual RVs or tents surrounding a central common campfire and group meeting area. It is most convenient if all the doors face the center of the circle where you will most likely build a communal campfire, but facing the front of vehicles into the circle might allow you to get more rigs around the campfire. Parking with the door to toward the center puts everyone's awning and patio space where they can view each other and share in the festivities. It also makes your access to the campfire better.
Choosing your camp site. When camping in hot weather it is always nice to have a shady campsite. Of course you aren't going to find much shade in the desert! Shade is your friend, regardless of whether you're camping a tent or an RV. Because many RVs have air conditioners, having a shady place to set up your tent will be more important than a shady place to park your RV. However, having shade for outdoor leisure activities will always be helpful in warmer weather. The only time you may want to avoid shade is if it is provided by a single tall tree that might attract lightning if there are any storms in the forecast. Camping under trees can also be hazardous if you get wind, which can cause dead branches to come crashing down on you. Another major consideration will be choosing a site that will not be in danger of flooding if there you get any rain -- locally or in nearby mountains. Avoid putting your tent or your RV in depressions that may collect water if it rains and don't ever camp in a dry wash or old stream bed. Even areas that appear to be fairly "high and dry" may be subject to runoff when it rains. I have gotten up some mornings to find the grass mat under my awning all but completely buried in mud when the previous nights' rain created enough run off to deliver a powerful stream under my RV. Although it wasn't obvious until it rained, we were parked smack in the main path of run off from nearby hills. Had I set a up a tent in the same location it would undoubtedly been flooded out during the rain.
If you are tent camping in a primitive area, your main concerns that will be different than camping in a developed campground, will be water and sanitation. You may also have to build your own fire pit (see previous post on Campfire Safety). Since there won't be a handy faucet to re-fill your water jugs, you'll need to bring along enough to last your entire trip. Lacking access to even a primitive pit toilet, you'll have to provide your own latrine. A "porta-potty" is a convenient, portable toilet that is especially appreciated by the ladies. The only drawbacks are they can be heavy, take up space, and the capacity is very limited so they have to be dumped regularly. If you don't have access to a dump station or a toilet you can haul your porta-potty to, you may fill it long before your trip is over. Other options include a simple portable toilet that consists of a toilet seat with legs like a camp stool. Plastic bags are attached to the bottom to capture the waste. You then seal the bags with twist ties and dispose of them when you have access to appropriate facilities to do so. In a more primitive situation, you will need to dig your own latrine, if doing so isn't prohibited by local regulations. If you are going to be camped in the same place for several days, you may want to make a multiple use latrine. Dig a hole or trench a safe distance from camp, trails, roads, and water sources -- always at least 200 feet from any water. Choose a spot where trees, bushes, or rocks provide some natural cover for privacy or erect a temporary shelter, such as a shower enclosure. For comfort and convenience you might want to use logs or poles to make a seat over the trench or modify a camp chair. Leave a shovel at the latrine so each user can shovel some dirt over their "deposits". Then at the end of your outing, be sure to cover the trench completely. For short term needs, dig a small hole for individual uses and cover it over immediately when you are done. Never dig a latrine near any well, lake, spring, or stream. Make sure you are at least 200 feet from any water source. Squatting over a hole is not comfortable for most people in Western society , but it is actually a fairly natural position for complete evacuation. It just takes some getting used to for most modern humans who are accustomed to sitting on the "throne".
Boondocking in an RV requires conservation of resources if you want to retain the benefits of your RV. The three major concerns are battery power, water, and holding tanks. If you use water and partially fill your holding tanks on the way to your primitive site, stop and dump your tanks and refill your fresh water as close to your site as possible before you arrive. Also make sure your batteries area fully charged either by using a battery charger before you leave home or by them charging while you're driving.
If you run your batteries down you won't have light and, if your furnace has a fan, you won't have any heat so you need to maintain your batteries. Many modern propane appliances have a circuit board that also requires 12-volt power for the appliance to operate. Start off your trip with your batteries fully charged. Then run the vehicle engine or the on board generator to charge the batteries each day. The vehicle alternator is usually the best option for charging your batteries. The vehicle alternator is higher amperage and has regulated voltage whereas the battery chargers in most converters and in many automotive battery chargers are lower amperage and unregulated. Unregulated chargers can fry your batteries. Usually running your vehicle for about an hour will bring your batteries back up to full charge. Running the vehicle engine at idle will probably use about the same amount of gas as running the generator to charge your batteries. I have an automatic battery charger set up so whenever I have 120 volt power it charges my batteries. That way, when I run the generator for any reason (power A/C, run microwave, operate entertainment systems) the batteries are charging. Conserve battery power by limiting the use of 12 volt lighting and appliances. LED lights use a whole lot less power than standard incandescent bulbs, but today they are still a little pricey in the first place. Use your gas lanterns or battery powered lanterns and flashlights whenever you can. Schedule your activities to take advantage of daylight hours or take advantage of moonlight or light from your campfire. Candles and torches might be used to illuminate campsites, giving a comfortable, almost romantic ambiance. Solar panels are sometimes a good way to maintain your batteries but you'll need some large panels, not just the little 4"x8" panels that plug into your cigarette lighter.
Your next most important resource is water. You have a limited supply of water in your fresh water tank. You can supplement that by bringing jugs, jerry cans, drums, or collapsible bladders of additional water and adding them to your tank as needed. If you RV doesn't have a gravity fill port, you may need to rig a portable pump to transfer water from you backup supply to your tank. If you have a ladder to get on the roof of your RV you might be able to carry your spare water up there and let gravity fill your fresh water tank. However, water is very heavy and carrying it on the roof isn't the best idea. Conserve water as much as possible. Save the water from the shower in jugs or a dishpan when it is running to warm up and use that for other routine tasks. Wipe off dishes with a paper towel or crumpled newspaper instead of rinsing them. When washing or showering, only run the water as needed to wet your hands, face, or body or to rinse off the soap. Turn the water off while you're lathering and scrubbing. If your RV doesn't have a shutoff on the shower head you can usually add one fairly easily and economically. You might even try developing good water conservation habits at home. It may be convenient but it is just a waste of water to let the faucet run while you're brushing your teeth. You probably won't see a noticeable difference in your water bill, but creating a habit of conservation will be helpful when you go camping where it definitely will make a difference.
Limiting water usage will also help with the third concern: filling holding tanks. By limiting water usage you will automatically reduce filling of your holding tanks. You may be able to get rid of some of the water from your gray water tank by using it to put out your campfire each evening. DO NOT use sewage from the black water tank! Its is unsanitary as well as very unpleasant and in most places is illegal. Avoid using the toilet in your RV when you can. IF there are pit toilets nearby, take advantage of them. Sometimes they smell really bad, but better to endure a few minutes in a bad smelling toilet than to have your black water tank back up and make your whole RV smell really bad for a really long time -- or have your tanks fill up and not be able to use the toilet at all! Using an outside latrine, just like tent campers, is an option and one you may be reduced to if you fill your holding tanks. There is some debate over whether it is better to send the guys out in remote locations to "water a dry bush" and conserve holding tank space or allow the liquid to help break down solid wastes. I usually vote for conserving the space when boondocking. The ladies in your group will appreciate your not filling the holding tanks too quickly! For best results, try to monitor the liquid level in your black water tank. If solids are piling up on the bottom of the thank, you'll need more liquid to maintain normal septic tank functions to break down waste and control odor as well as to facilitate dumping. How do you monitor liquid in the black water tank? About the only way is to open the toilet valve and look inside. Yccch! Not a pleasant task, but better than suffering the consequences of over filling or too much waste build up. Or just eyeball it each time you flush the toilet so you know how its doing throughout your trip. If you begin to see solid wastes piling up, drain a bucket or two of water off your gray water tank and dump it down the toilet.
Fuel is another resource you need to keep an eye on. If your on board generator uses the same fuel as the vehicle engine, the tap for the generator fuel line is usually situated higher in the tank than the motor fuel line so you don't run yourself completely out of fuel using the generator. Bring along extra fuel if you have any doubts about how long your fuel will last. Propane for you stove, furnace, refrigerator, and hot water heater is another limited resource. Use all appliances as sparingly as possible. Shut off the hot water heater when hot water is not needed for a while (like over night). There is some difference of opinion about shutting off the hot water heater. Some folks believe it will take less fuel to maintain it over night instead of re-heating it every morning. Personally, I like having hot water available all the time and not having to remember to turn it back on and then wait for it to heat to shower or shave in the morning. If you're particularly concerned about the subject, perform your own experiments and see what works best for you. Make sure your RV is well insulated and not drafty and windows and doors are closed on cool nights so your furnace doesn't run unnecessarily; limit opening the fridge. Only light the stove burners as you need them and turn them off as soon as you're done. If your stove has pilot lights, turn off the pilots when you're not using the stove. Speaking of fuel, make sure you have enough fuel to make the round trip to your remote destination. If there is any question of running out of fuel, top off your fuel tanks as close to your destination as you can get and carry extra fuel. For travel trailers you can simply bring extra propane tanks. Motorhomes with permanently mounted propane tanks can be fitted with an "Extend-a-Stay" kit that allows you to tap into an external propane tank to augment your on board tank.
Energy conservation is a usually a primary concern for both RVers and tent campers. You can minimize use of lantern fuel and battery power for lighting by matching your schedule to daylight and making use of natural light as much as possible. Conserve cooking fuels by only using stoves when actively cooking. If your RV range has pilot lights, turn them off between uses. If you choose to stay up after dark, focus on light-free activities like star-gazing or work by the light of your campfire. Of course you may need to ration your firewood too, since there are few places remaining where it is legal to gather firewood and where it is, it will probably be pretty well cleared out. One word of caution: these systems will not provide extra propane to operate a propane powered generator like those sometimes found on diesel motorhomes. The extended tanks provide vapor only and the generator requires liquied propane.
You will need to plan your provisions to make it through your entire outing without having to go to the store. Plan all your meals in advance and be frugal in your use of basic ingredients so they'll last the whole trip. Prepare foods only as you need them to avoid waste. You can save chili and stew and re-heat it for a second meal, but making too many pancakes or scrambled eggs would probably be a waste.
You may have cell phone access in some remote areas, but don't count on it. Sometimes you can increase your range by using an external antenna instead of just the tiny little one on the phone. An antenna mounted on the roof of your RV just might be enough higher and more powerful to work when standing on the ground doesn't. Of course you can try standing on the roof of your RV for emergency communications. There are also booster systems you can buy but they are pretty expensive. Many of the more recent cell phones lack an external antenna connection so check whether yours does or not before putting out money for an external antenna. Booster systems are often wireless so it doesn't matter whether your phone has an external zntenna port.
Local TV channels are available in some areas, but given that boondocking usually implies going out to some remote location, reception may be very limited. Local channels are usually picked up using a 'bat wing' antenna installed on the roof and operated via inside controls that crank it up and rotate it to obtain the best signal. Most include a signal booster to give you better range.
Satellite TV channels can be accessed using a dish on or beside your RV anytime you have a clear view of the southern sky. This usually isn't a problem when camping in the desert or on the beach, but could be in the forest or mountains. Some high end models have automatic tracking devices but you will need to manually align most satellite dishes so you need a little booklet to tell you about where to initially aim your dish. There are fairly inexpensive aiming devices that make it a lot easier to align your satellite dish. Bring along your favorite tapes or DVDs just in case. High-end satellite systems can even be used on the road, but, of course, the extra tracking and aiming components make them a lot more expensive than manual systems.
Camping off the grid is fun!
Using Campground Hookups
Campground hookups are primarily of concern to RVers but tent campers can sometimes benefit from water and electricity. Tent campers usually make do with shared restrooms and shared water faucets but having your own water and power right at your site can be useful. Campgrounds with full hookups give you maximum flexibility in using your RV systems. Full hookups usually means water, electricity, and sewer connections at each site. Phone, cable TV, and Internet may be optional. Many campgrounds today offer free WiFi Internet service if you have a wireless adapter on your computer. You just need to get the network ID and password. Water and sewer connections are part of the full hook-up price you pay at the campground. Electricity is usually included, but sometimes there may be an extra surcharge if you have electric heat or use your air conditioner during the summer. In rare cases, there may be a meter on each site so you pay for the power you use. With power, water, sewer, and WiFi, you pretty much have all the conveniences of home. Phone and cable TV are not always available and are usually extra cost services if they are. The proliferation of cell phones has pretty much eliminated land line phone service in campgrounds. Tent campers may find it convenient to have water and electricity at their site. Having your own water faucet is handy and saves packing water from a central community faucet for cooking, doing dishes and washing. If you have a portable hot water heater you may be able to connect it if you have your own faucet at your site. Access to electricity gives you power for entertainment systems, lighting, and cooking options you might not otherwise have. Tent campers will usually have little or no use for sewer connections. If you use a porta-potty, you should take it to the dump station to empty it, not attempt to dump it into the sewer port in your site. The dump station includes a basin around the sewer to contain any spills so they can be safely washed down. The sewer connections in each site do not include a basin so any spills contaminate the ground around the sewer pipe, leaving an unpleasant and unsanitary condition. As you would expect, RV sites with hookups will cost more than primitive sites, but the extra cost is usually well worth it if you can take advantage of the services offered. Full hookups would be of little use to someone with a truck camper or small trailer with an ice box., no A/C, and no on board sanitation facilities.
City water connections on most RVs consist of a recessed female hose connection on the side of the vehicle. You simply connect a drinking water rated hose between that connection and the faucet at your campsite. The use of a pressure regulator between your hose and the faucet is highly recommended. Variations in city water pressure have been know to overpower and damage plumbing inside RVs. On hot. sunny days, high pressure may rupture the hose. Installing the regulator at the faucet ensures you don't have high pressure in your hose or your RV plumbing. Always use a special fresh/potable/drinking water rated hose for connecting city water and for filling your fresh water tank. Avoid using an ordinary garden hose for your connection, or to fill your fresh water tank. They can add the smell and taste of the plastic of the hose to your water, especially when the water sits in the hose in the sun for a while like it does when connected to the RV water system. The chemcials leeched from non-potable hoes may also be toxic. Drinking water hoses are made of special materials that don't leave odors or taste or toxic chemicals in the water. Some are treated with anti-microbial compounds that inhibit mold and mildew that sometimes grows when the hose is in storage. Drinking water hoses are usually white or light blue so you can distinguish them from ordinary garden hoses. Because some city water supplies are not particularly good tasting, you might want to add a filter. It could be a portable, in-line filter, available at RV stores, attached to your hose for your city water connection or when filling your fresh water tank. For more convenience, you might add a residential style filter inside your RV. The replacement filters are said to be less expensive than RV in-line filters, last longer, and except for changing the filter occasionally, they don't require any effort. Whenever you are connected to city water, make sure your hose doesn't pose a trip hazard. If it isn't long enough to lie flat, add another section of hose. Hoses usually come in 5, 10, 25,50, and 100 foot lengths. If your faucet is close to your city water inlet, a 5' hose may be sufficient. I have only encountered that once or twice in thirty some odd years of RVing but I still carry a short hose in case I get a chance to use it. I also carry a 50' hose, just in case the faucet is way at the end of my site. Just make sure you roll and store any excess under your RV so it doesn't become a trip hazard. I once met a guy with a 40' trailer that had the water connection way at the front. The faucet in the campground was at the rear of the back in site. He only carried one 25' hose, so he was out of luck with the faucet more than 40' away. Better to have more than you need than less. You can always roll up and store the excess under your RV. You might want to coil the hose in an insulated bag to reduce pre-heating of the water supply. Luke warm drinking water isn't very palatable although it IS said to be healthy. A handy gadget you will want to use is an elbow that screws into the connection on your RV so the hose hangs straight down instead of sticking straight out. Without the elbow, your hose will have a tendency to kink right at the connection to the RV.
The city water inlet contains a back flow valve that prevents water from spewing out the city water port when you use your on board pump. I once saw an RV where the owner had removed the back flow device. Apparently he never did any boondocking and wanted higher water flow when connected to city water. If you have any problems with the inlet they are pretty easy to replace. For a temporary fix for a missing or leaking back flow valve you can screw a plug into the hose connection to prevent water from flowing out when using the on board pump. If you're tent camping, having water at your site eliminates the task of carrying water from a central faucet for your needs. You might even hook up a portable sink via a hose. Just make sure you have an appropriate way to get rid of the waste water.
Electrical connections are usually pretty simple. Most RVs have a 30-amp shore power cord. The plug is a 3-prong plug and looks a lot like the one on an electric dryer. Simply plug it into the matching receptacle on the power post at your site. Large RVs and many newer units may have 50-amp shore power cords. The plugs on these have 4 prongs. If the campground has 50-amp service, simply plug your shore power cord into the matching receptacle. It is a good idea to verify proper wiring of the 50 amp receptacle to ensure yo get proper power and don't damage your electrical system. A simple voltmeter can be used to verify the receptacle is wired correctly. You need a voltmeter that will handle at least 300 volts. Insert the leads from the voltmeter into the two flat, vertical slots of the receptacle. It should register about 240 volts. If it registers 0 volts, the receptacle is wired wrong. A properly wired 50 amp receptacle will have 0 volts on the Neutral line. One that is mis-wired may connect both hot lines to the Neutral creating 100 amps on the Neutral line and exceeding its capacity and creating a fire danger. If you have a camper or an older trailer with an ordinary 15-amp power cord, you will either have a recessed male receptacle (called a motor base) on the side of your vehicle to plug a heavy duty extension cord into or a shore power cord with an ordinary 15 amp grounded 3-prong plug on it. Again, simply plug it into the matching receptacle on the power post. Most campground power posts have 15-amp outlets as well as 30 or 50 amp receptacles. There are adapters available so you can still hook up your 50-amp power cord even if the campground only supplies 30 amp service. However, you will only have 30 amps of power available. There are even adapters to connect to ordinary 15-amp household outlets. Again, using a 15 amp adapter only gives you 15 amps of power. There are special "Y" adapters that plug into both a 15-amp outlet and 30-amp outlet to attempt to approximate 50-amp service. The additive function of this adapter is only effective it the campground pedestal is wired so that the 15 and 30 amp receptacles are each on their own circuits, so they may or may not add capacity. Some pedestals have 15 amp outlets on the same circuit as the 30 amp outlet just for convenience. To get 240 volts there must be two separate 120 volt circuits that are 180° out of phase. If the two circuits are the same phase, you will only get 120 volts and testing between the two hot leads (two flat slots in the receptacle) will yield 0 volts. If the pedestal is wired so both outlets are on the same circuit, you still only get 30-amps. 30 amps is usually enough for most RV applications, but not enough to run 2 roof air conditioners at the same time. RVs wired for 50-amps can usually run both ACs at once, IF you are connected to 50 amp service. If you have to step down to 30 amp service because that's all the campground has, you should only run one AC at a time. Just a reminder that some campgrounds may charge extra for electrical service if you have and use a roof air conditioner. Tent campers might take advantage of a site with hookups to run TVs or other entertainment equipment. You might use electric lights instead of lanterns and you might even find the use of microwave ovens and electric fry pans an added convenience. I've even heard of people using electric blankets in their tents, but the I don't find that idea very practical. I would rather bring along an adequate sleep system that can be used without power. It is safer and more reliable and you won't wake up cold if the power goes out in the middle of the night or someone trips over your power cord and disconnects it.
Sewer connections are often misunderstood and feared by new RVers. Making the connection is really pretty simple. You connect the twist lock connector on the sewer hose to the dump valve on your RV and put the other end into the sewer pipe at your site. There are a variety of adapters to ensure a good fit with the sewer pipe. It is usually a good idea to put a rock or other heavy object on the sewer hose to make sure it doesn't come out of the ground if the hose adapter doesn't screw into the pipe or fit tightly. Always wear disposable rubber gloves when handling your sewer hose. The biggest confusion comes in using the sewer facilities while camped. Many people think they can hook up the hose and then just use the facilities inside just like they would at home. That might mostly work OK for gray water from sinks and showers, but is a problem for the black water waste from the toilet. The problem is that solid wastes will pile up in the holding tank instead of being flushed down into the sewers. RV toilets don't use 3-5 gallons of water per flush like home toilets do. You must leave the valve for the black water tank closed. Actually it is best to leave both valves closed until the tanks reach at least 1/2 to 3/4 full. Many experts say to wait until the tank is nearly full. Then dump and flush the tanks like you would at a dump station. dumping the black water first, then the gray water. Letting the tanks drain directly allows solids to build up in the tanks. Letting the tanks fill before opening valves ensures there is sufficient liquid in the tanks to create a flow adequate to flush out solids and particulate matter. Letting the tanks fill also gives the chemicals time to break down solid wastes for better flushing and reduced odors. Sometimes leaving the gray water valve open will allow food particles and other contaminates to settle out and accumulate in the tank and cause unpleasant odors. Having plenty of soapy water from showers and washing dishes helps clean the dump hose after dumping the black water tank so I recommend keeping both valves closed until time to dump.
Phone, TV, and Internet connections are available in some campgrounds. Most campgrounds that provide Internet service these days do so via WiFi so all you need is a wireless adapter on your computer and network ID and the password for the router. Few RVs have phone connections for land lines and few campgrounds offer phone lines, but in case your RV and the campground you're staying in does support landlines, you'll need a cable to run from a phone jack on your RV to one on the camp site pedestal. The connectors are usually standard phone jacks. For cable TV you'll need a coax cable. This screws onto a connection on your RV and to a matching connector on the pedestal. If your RV doesn't have phone or cable connections, they can usually be added fairly easily. You will want to install an appropriate water-resistant connection on the outside wall and run wiring inside to the location where you want to plug in your phone or TV. Any hardwired Internet service would use either a coax or CAT-5 cable and you'll need matching connections on your RV. Most campgrounds that offer Internet do it via a wireless router or WiFi so you don't even need a cable -- just get the network name and password for the router from the office. Large campgrounds might have multiple WiFi routers and they should tell you which one would be best to connect to from your site. Some facilities might have satellite TV channels available via a hard-wired connection. If your RV is equipped with an external cable connector, it would be a good idea to carry a coax cable with you so you can take advantage of cable and/or satellite TV if it is available.
Other usual campground facilities usually include picnic tables and fire pits for your use. Sometimes the picnic tables are under some kind of structure that provides shade or rain protection but mostly they are in the open. RVers are expected to take advantage of fire pits in their campsites but you should always be considerate of other campers. Avoid burning trash that would emit foul odors or excessive smoke or would foul the fire pit. Restrict your fire to designated fire pits and don't overload the fire ring with fuel. Avoid using gasoline or other flammable liquids to start your fire. They give off dangerous and offensive fumes and the use in a confined area is extremely dangerous. Picnic tables are designed for eating. They should not be used for climbing toys by children and be sure to take care when using a camp stove or portable BBQ on picnic tables. Plastic tables will melt and be severely damaged if not protected with fire pans and wood tables can char or even catch on fire! Some sites have standing charcoal grills and putting your stove or BBQ on them would be much safer.
Hook it up!
City water connections on most RVs consist of a recessed female hose connection on the side of the vehicle. You simply connect a drinking water rated hose between that connection and the faucet at your campsite. The use of a pressure regulator between your hose and the faucet is highly recommended. Variations in city water pressure have been know to overpower and damage plumbing inside RVs. On hot. sunny days, high pressure may rupture the hose. Installing the regulator at the faucet ensures you don't have high pressure in your hose or your RV plumbing. Always use a special fresh/potable/drinking water rated hose for connecting city water and for filling your fresh water tank. Avoid using an ordinary garden hose for your connection, or to fill your fresh water tank. They can add the smell and taste of the plastic of the hose to your water, especially when the water sits in the hose in the sun for a while like it does when connected to the RV water system. The chemcials leeched from non-potable hoes may also be toxic. Drinking water hoses are made of special materials that don't leave odors or taste or toxic chemicals in the water. Some are treated with anti-microbial compounds that inhibit mold and mildew that sometimes grows when the hose is in storage. Drinking water hoses are usually white or light blue so you can distinguish them from ordinary garden hoses. Because some city water supplies are not particularly good tasting, you might want to add a filter. It could be a portable, in-line filter, available at RV stores, attached to your hose for your city water connection or when filling your fresh water tank. For more convenience, you might add a residential style filter inside your RV. The replacement filters are said to be less expensive than RV in-line filters, last longer, and except for changing the filter occasionally, they don't require any effort. Whenever you are connected to city water, make sure your hose doesn't pose a trip hazard. If it isn't long enough to lie flat, add another section of hose. Hoses usually come in 5, 10, 25,50, and 100 foot lengths. If your faucet is close to your city water inlet, a 5' hose may be sufficient. I have only encountered that once or twice in thirty some odd years of RVing but I still carry a short hose in case I get a chance to use it. I also carry a 50' hose, just in case the faucet is way at the end of my site. Just make sure you roll and store any excess under your RV so it doesn't become a trip hazard. I once met a guy with a 40' trailer that had the water connection way at the front. The faucet in the campground was at the rear of the back in site. He only carried one 25' hose, so he was out of luck with the faucet more than 40' away. Better to have more than you need than less. You can always roll up and store the excess under your RV. You might want to coil the hose in an insulated bag to reduce pre-heating of the water supply. Luke warm drinking water isn't very palatable although it IS said to be healthy. A handy gadget you will want to use is an elbow that screws into the connection on your RV so the hose hangs straight down instead of sticking straight out. Without the elbow, your hose will have a tendency to kink right at the connection to the RV.
The city water inlet contains a back flow valve that prevents water from spewing out the city water port when you use your on board pump. I once saw an RV where the owner had removed the back flow device. Apparently he never did any boondocking and wanted higher water flow when connected to city water. If you have any problems with the inlet they are pretty easy to replace. For a temporary fix for a missing or leaking back flow valve you can screw a plug into the hose connection to prevent water from flowing out when using the on board pump. If you're tent camping, having water at your site eliminates the task of carrying water from a central faucet for your needs. You might even hook up a portable sink via a hose. Just make sure you have an appropriate way to get rid of the waste water.
Electrical connections are usually pretty simple. Most RVs have a 30-amp shore power cord. The plug is a 3-prong plug and looks a lot like the one on an electric dryer. Simply plug it into the matching receptacle on the power post at your site. Large RVs and many newer units may have 50-amp shore power cords. The plugs on these have 4 prongs. If the campground has 50-amp service, simply plug your shore power cord into the matching receptacle. It is a good idea to verify proper wiring of the 50 amp receptacle to ensure yo get proper power and don't damage your electrical system. A simple voltmeter can be used to verify the receptacle is wired correctly. You need a voltmeter that will handle at least 300 volts. Insert the leads from the voltmeter into the two flat, vertical slots of the receptacle. It should register about 240 volts. If it registers 0 volts, the receptacle is wired wrong. A properly wired 50 amp receptacle will have 0 volts on the Neutral line. One that is mis-wired may connect both hot lines to the Neutral creating 100 amps on the Neutral line and exceeding its capacity and creating a fire danger. If you have a camper or an older trailer with an ordinary 15-amp power cord, you will either have a recessed male receptacle (called a motor base) on the side of your vehicle to plug a heavy duty extension cord into or a shore power cord with an ordinary 15 amp grounded 3-prong plug on it. Again, simply plug it into the matching receptacle on the power post. Most campground power posts have 15-amp outlets as well as 30 or 50 amp receptacles. There are adapters available so you can still hook up your 50-amp power cord even if the campground only supplies 30 amp service. However, you will only have 30 amps of power available. There are even adapters to connect to ordinary 15-amp household outlets. Again, using a 15 amp adapter only gives you 15 amps of power. There are special "Y" adapters that plug into both a 15-amp outlet and 30-amp outlet to attempt to approximate 50-amp service. The additive function of this adapter is only effective it the campground pedestal is wired so that the 15 and 30 amp receptacles are each on their own circuits, so they may or may not add capacity. Some pedestals have 15 amp outlets on the same circuit as the 30 amp outlet just for convenience. To get 240 volts there must be two separate 120 volt circuits that are 180° out of phase. If the two circuits are the same phase, you will only get 120 volts and testing between the two hot leads (two flat slots in the receptacle) will yield 0 volts. If the pedestal is wired so both outlets are on the same circuit, you still only get 30-amps. 30 amps is usually enough for most RV applications, but not enough to run 2 roof air conditioners at the same time. RVs wired for 50-amps can usually run both ACs at once, IF you are connected to 50 amp service. If you have to step down to 30 amp service because that's all the campground has, you should only run one AC at a time. Just a reminder that some campgrounds may charge extra for electrical service if you have and use a roof air conditioner. Tent campers might take advantage of a site with hookups to run TVs or other entertainment equipment. You might use electric lights instead of lanterns and you might even find the use of microwave ovens and electric fry pans an added convenience. I've even heard of people using electric blankets in their tents, but the I don't find that idea very practical. I would rather bring along an adequate sleep system that can be used without power. It is safer and more reliable and you won't wake up cold if the power goes out in the middle of the night or someone trips over your power cord and disconnects it.
Sewer connections are often misunderstood and feared by new RVers. Making the connection is really pretty simple. You connect the twist lock connector on the sewer hose to the dump valve on your RV and put the other end into the sewer pipe at your site. There are a variety of adapters to ensure a good fit with the sewer pipe. It is usually a good idea to put a rock or other heavy object on the sewer hose to make sure it doesn't come out of the ground if the hose adapter doesn't screw into the pipe or fit tightly. Always wear disposable rubber gloves when handling your sewer hose. The biggest confusion comes in using the sewer facilities while camped. Many people think they can hook up the hose and then just use the facilities inside just like they would at home. That might mostly work OK for gray water from sinks and showers, but is a problem for the black water waste from the toilet. The problem is that solid wastes will pile up in the holding tank instead of being flushed down into the sewers. RV toilets don't use 3-5 gallons of water per flush like home toilets do. You must leave the valve for the black water tank closed. Actually it is best to leave both valves closed until the tanks reach at least 1/2 to 3/4 full. Many experts say to wait until the tank is nearly full. Then dump and flush the tanks like you would at a dump station. dumping the black water first, then the gray water. Letting the tanks drain directly allows solids to build up in the tanks. Letting the tanks fill before opening valves ensures there is sufficient liquid in the tanks to create a flow adequate to flush out solids and particulate matter. Letting the tanks fill also gives the chemicals time to break down solid wastes for better flushing and reduced odors. Sometimes leaving the gray water valve open will allow food particles and other contaminates to settle out and accumulate in the tank and cause unpleasant odors. Having plenty of soapy water from showers and washing dishes helps clean the dump hose after dumping the black water tank so I recommend keeping both valves closed until time to dump.
Phone, TV, and Internet connections are available in some campgrounds. Most campgrounds that provide Internet service these days do so via WiFi so all you need is a wireless adapter on your computer and network ID and the password for the router. Few RVs have phone connections for land lines and few campgrounds offer phone lines, but in case your RV and the campground you're staying in does support landlines, you'll need a cable to run from a phone jack on your RV to one on the camp site pedestal. The connectors are usually standard phone jacks. For cable TV you'll need a coax cable. This screws onto a connection on your RV and to a matching connector on the pedestal. If your RV doesn't have phone or cable connections, they can usually be added fairly easily. You will want to install an appropriate water-resistant connection on the outside wall and run wiring inside to the location where you want to plug in your phone or TV. Any hardwired Internet service would use either a coax or CAT-5 cable and you'll need matching connections on your RV. Most campgrounds that offer Internet do it via a wireless router or WiFi so you don't even need a cable -- just get the network name and password for the router from the office. Large campgrounds might have multiple WiFi routers and they should tell you which one would be best to connect to from your site. Some facilities might have satellite TV channels available via a hard-wired connection. If your RV is equipped with an external cable connector, it would be a good idea to carry a coax cable with you so you can take advantage of cable and/or satellite TV if it is available.
Other usual campground facilities usually include picnic tables and fire pits for your use. Sometimes the picnic tables are under some kind of structure that provides shade or rain protection but mostly they are in the open. RVers are expected to take advantage of fire pits in their campsites but you should always be considerate of other campers. Avoid burning trash that would emit foul odors or excessive smoke or would foul the fire pit. Restrict your fire to designated fire pits and don't overload the fire ring with fuel. Avoid using gasoline or other flammable liquids to start your fire. They give off dangerous and offensive fumes and the use in a confined area is extremely dangerous. Picnic tables are designed for eating. They should not be used for climbing toys by children and be sure to take care when using a camp stove or portable BBQ on picnic tables. Plastic tables will melt and be severely damaged if not protected with fire pans and wood tables can char or even catch on fire! Some sites have standing charcoal grills and putting your stove or BBQ on them would be much safer.
Hook it up!
Thursday, October 25, 2012
Personal Protective Equipment for Campers and OHVers
Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is well defined for many professions. Football players wear helmets and shoulder and hip pads. Welders wear goggles or helmets, heavy leather aprons, and heavy leather gloves. Painters need respirators and coveralls. Machinists wear safety goggles. Construction workers wear hard hats and steel toed boots. Fire fighters have fire-resistant "turn out" gear. Law enforcement has bullet proof vests. Many of our camping, RVing, and OHV related activities have PPE that will improve safety and comfort. Some, like helmets for OHV riders, may be required by law in some jurisdictions, but wearing the appropriate Personal Protective Equipment for any activity is just common sense -- and not wearing it is a badge of stupidity. Some folks might think it isn't very fashionable or macho, but it sure beats road rash, casts and bandages! Not wearing proper PPE pretty much demonstrates one has an IQ a few points less than a dandelion. When you see some macho guy hot dogging it around on his dirt bike in a t-shirt and flip-flops you can figure the bike is probably smarter than he is.
OHV riders should ALWAYS wear helmets and goggles, regardless of whether there is a helmet law. In many places, helmets are required by law, especially for minors. Other personal protection is provided by apparel, chest protectors, gloves, elbow pads, knee pads, and riding boots. You can ride in regular shirts and pants, but I don't recommend it. Ordinary clothing doesn't provide the same protection or comfort as proper riding gear. Riding jerseys and pants are specifically designed to protect your body while allowing necessary freedom of movement and adequate ventilation. Jerseys often have some padding in the elbows and pants have hip and knee pads. Special "Windchill" jerseys and gloves will help keep you warm in cooler weather. When it is rainy or down right cold, an Enduro jacket made of Gore-Tex is in order. Even if your jersey has padded elbows, I suggest wearing elbow/arm guards for extra protection. The soft padding the jersey won't give you the same level of protection as hard plastic arm guards. I describe my riding gear as "full body armor". I wear as much protection as I can and it has saved me from some nasty consequences more than once. It includes helmet and goggles, chest protector, arm guards, gloves, hip pads in my riding pants, knee braces, kidney belt, and riding boots. You can also buy body armor that you put on like a shirt. It has shoulder and elbow pads, a built-in kidney belt, and chest and back protection. Whatever you wear may seem restrictive at first or uncomfortable, especially in warm weather, but the safety it provides is more than worth it. Proper gear can protect you from a lot of injuries. Full body armor is particularly necessary for dirt biking. It may not be as necessary riding ATVs and side-by-sides since they don't fall over as easily, but helmet, goggles, and gloves are still strongly advised. For dirt biking, I can't over-emphasize the value of full body armor. ATVs are not far behind. I wouldn't want to ride either without protection. Standard knee pads are inexpensive. They are plastic devices that fit over your knees and down your leg, kind of like fancy soccer shin guards. They protect your knee cap and shin from scrapes and bruises. If you've ever knelt on a rock. let alone fallen on one, you'll appreciate the knee protection. Knee pads usually cost less than $20. A more robust protection comes in the form of knee braces. Not only do they protect your knees and shins from bumps, they help prevent lateral displacement and over-extension of the knee. They are somewhat bulky, but the main deterrent to getting knee braces is their high cost. You can easily pay up to $500 a pair for them. I spent weeks watching ebay to find mine (used) for under $100. I have a suit of body armor that can be worn under my jersey and includes a chest protector, elbow pads, and kidney belt, but it isn't as tough as the individual components and the chest protector lacks shoulder pads. Although not part of your body armor, having a convenient drinking water supply is essential to good health on the trail. I prefer a "Camelbak" hydration pack. I add a piece of Velcro to the bite valve and a corresponding mating piece to the center of my chest protector to keep the bite valve handy and avoid having it pulled off going through bushes or trees or just falling of from the drinking tube whipping in the wind. To help keep mine cool in summer weather, I wrap it in a piece of reflective foam insulation cut from an automotive windshield cover. An old Army canteen is also a good way to carry water. That's what my buddies and I used before Camelbaks. Hydration packs are much easier to use and you can even take a sip as needed while riding, which is much better way of staying hydrated than gulping down a bunch of water when you take a break, which can lead to stomach cramps.
Horse back riding presents many of the same opportunities for injury as riding an OHV. I'm not aware of any equestrian helmet laws yet, but wearing a proper riding helmet is a good idea. Statistics I've read show there are far more head injuries from horseback riding than from motorcycle riding, yet there is no outcry for equestrian helmet laws. A riding helmet may not look as fashionable or in style as a cowboy hat, but if you get thrown, it will do you a lot more good. Speaking of cowboy hats, they do provide excellent protection from sun and rain. They just don't stand up well if your head encounters a rock, a tree limb, or a log. Chaps are a common part of the cowboy costume that is often the object of humor. However, chaps are an important part of your horse back riding protection. They guard your legs against brush and tree branches and protect your thighs against rubbing on the saddle. Gloves are needed to protect your hands against blisters and abrasions. While eye protection isn't as critical as it is for OHV activities (unless you're racing or roping or driving a herd of cattle), you will want to at least wear sunglasses to protect your eyes from the glare and over-exposure to UV radiation. Cowboys usually carried their drinking water in a big canteen slung on the saddle horn. That still works and the old, blanket wrap style canteen allows you to dampen the sides to keep the water cooler. There are also saddle horn packs that carry two water bottles and are convenient to use on the trail. A hydration pack (Camelbak) like the one I use for dirt biking is also a convenient way of staying hydrated while horseback riding and is my personal favorite.
Bicycling is a convenient companion activity to RVing and camping. A lot of people give little though to personal protective equipment for bicycling but it is worth considering. Some places require helmets, especially for children and helmets are ALWAYS a good idea. I like to wear mine over a ball cap because, like many bicycle helmets, mine doesn't have a visor and I don't like the sun in my eyes. Comfortable, light weight gloves will protect your hands from blisters and help cushion your grasp on the handlebars. You can buy special bicycling gloves but we've also find that equestrian riding gloves also work well. My favorite bicycle gloves are actually left and right handed batting gloves! Riding shorts provide comfortable crotch padding as well as necessary support for male riders. The form-fitting Spandex type material helps prevent "monkey butt". Some good sunglasses or safety glasses are needed to protect your eyes. You also might benefit from clamps or elastic bands around your right ankle to prevent your pants leg from getting caught in the chain. A helmet or handle-bar mounted mirror will help you keep track of riders behind you and watch for traffic overtaking you. Again, a Camelbak is a handy way to stay hydrated, but you can also carry water bottles in racks on the frame of your bicycle. Just be sure to make regular stops to take a sip now and then.
Most aquatic activities require flotation devices. In many places they are required by law as well as by common sense. You should always wear a Coast Guard approved flotation device when boating, rafting, canoeing, kayaking, water skiing, wake boarding, and jet skiing. Those little plastic floaties for kiddie pools don't count, not for you or for the kids. You are no longer limited to the ugly, orange kapok vests that were once the only choice. Now approved flotation devices come in both vest and belt versions and in a variety of fashionable colors. Make sure your device is Coast Guard approved, to ensure your safety as well as to comply with legal requirements. For many aquatic activities a good hat and sunglasses are needed to protect your face, neck, and eyes from sunburn. Waterproof sunblock is needed to prevent sunburn. Remember to consider the reflected sunlight as well as direct exposure. You can get a nasty burn from reflection while seated in the shade on the beach or on the covered deck of a boat. UV rays can penetrate clouds, so don't ignore sunblock on cloudy days. If you do, you'll regret it!
Most people don't think of camping as an activity that needs personal protective equipment, but they are wrong! There are many camping activities, even when camping in an RV, that benefit from protective equipment. Sturdy leather gloves are at the top of my list. Y ou need them when cutting and handling fire wood, pounding and pulling tent stakes, handling hot pots and pans, and a myriad of other manual tasks around the camp site. Goggles should also be worn when cutting wood. I would also recommend wearing a broad-brimmed hat and sunglasses to protect you from the sun. Sunglasses will help protect your eyes against UV rays and painful glare. While wearing tank tops and short shorts may provide simulating entertainment or humorous diversions to your fellow campers depending on your physique, you are better off wearing light weight, long sleeved shirts and long pants. It protects you from sunburn and insects, reflects direct sunlight to keep you cooler, and allows perspiration to do a better job of cooling your body. Sturdy shoes are advised. You will see a lot of people at campgrounds in flip-flops and sandals, but they are risking injury or insect bites. Be especially dubious of wearing open footwear when desert camping, where poisonous insects are common. Ticks are a common problem in the woods and they are often carries of Lyme Disease. You can probably get away with wearing sandals and flip-flops in a paved campground or at the beach -- it you don't mind the pale strap-marks that will be there when you remove them after a day or two in the sun or the sunburn you may get on exposed areas. RVers should wear disposable rubber gloves whenever they are dumping holding tanks or handling the sewer hose and holding tank chemicals. They might also be helpful when refueling or when checking your oil, unless you like to smell of gasoline or used motor oil on your fingers. You could even consider oven mitts and hot pads as PPE for camp cooking.
Why do I need PPE for hiking? After all, its just walking. In the first place, hiking is usually a lot more than just walking. Hiking has a few items of personal protective equipment to ensure safety. Sturdy boots top the list. They need to be adequate to support your ankles and protect your feet from stones, poison insects and snakes. Proper socks are needed to keep your feet comfortable. Not only do socks cushion your feet, they provide insulation to keep your feet warmer in winter and cooler in summer and provide protection against chafing that can cause blisters. Good hiking socks will wick sweat away from your skin. In fact, if you check out footwear recommendations for hiking you will see descriptions of entire sock systems involving multiple layers to ensure maximum comfort and safety in all seasons. Like any other outdoor activity, you should protect your head and eyes from too much sun. A lot of hikers wear baseball caps, but broad-brimmed hats protect your neck as well as your face and, besides keeping your neck from getting sunburned, that can be a real advantage if you get caught in the rain. I, for one, really hate having rain run down my back! As always, wear sunglasses to protect your eyes. Some light gloves might be helpful to protect your hands, especially if you're using a walking stick or hiking anyplace you have to do any rock climbing. Though more for comfort than personal protection (unless you have to use it as a weapon), a walking stick is a good thing to have. If you've never tried hiking with one, check it out. You'll be surprised how much stress it takes off your legs and back. A lot of hikers just use an old tree branch but some prefer commercial walking sticks. You can even get light weight telescoping aluminum walking sticks for added convenience. Some of these have built in shock absorbers for even more comfort. Due to the exertion of hiking, hydration is VERY IMPORTANT, so carry a canteen, water bottles, or wear a hydration pack. Jackets appropriate to the climate and weather are also advisable. It is smart to dress in layers so you can adjust your clothing as temperatures -- air and/or body temperature -- demands. I have something called a "JackPack" that is a combination jacket and back pack. It isn't very heavy but would provide some protection against a sudden summer shower as well as for carrying a few essential items. An inexpensive plastic poncho is always a good thing to tuck in your pocket or your pack. They are about the size and weight of a folder handkerchief so they aren't cumbersome to carry and having one could save you from getting soaked in a sudden summer storm. And remember, you lose body heat 25 times as fast in wet clothes. You can get dangerously hypothermic even in mild weather (temps in the 70s Fahrenheit) if your clothes are wet.
Hunting and fishing have their own special needs. If you are a hunter, you are aware that many hunting seasons occur in winter when you will need appropriate cold weather gear. You also know you need to dress to be seen, so other hunters don't mistake you for game. A lot of hunting clothing uses various camouflage designs. While that might make you harder for your prey to see, it also makes you harder for other hunters to see. Since many animals are color blind, it is far more important that fellow hunters see you than animals don't. If your parka isn't bright orange, wear a bright safety vest. In warm weather you can wear the vest over your shirt without much discomfort. You will also need to address how you carry your weapons and ammo. Holsters and ammo bands or bags should be sturdy, comfortable, and easily accessible. Hydration is an important issue so carry a canteen or wear a hydration pack. Sturdy boots are a necessity for tramping through the woods and fields . If you're in an area where you might encounter poisonous snakes, high top boots are advised. About the only special gear I've seen for fishing are hip-waders (and a cool fishing hat!). If you plan to spend time in the water, you'll need these for both comfort and to reduce hypothermia. You might even want to wear a wet suit inside of them for extra protection. Always exercise caution when wearing hip-waders. Take care not to venture into deep water. If water comes over the top of the waders they will quickly fill up and drag you down. Make sure you know how to get out of them quickly if the need arises. A good fishing hat should protect your face and neck from sunburn. Many fisherman decorate theirs with lures. If you do, make sure there are no exposed hooks to snag your scalp or your fingers! Sunglasses will be essential to protecting your eyes from the reflections off the water . Flotation devices are advisable, especially if you're fishing from a boat or pier or where you might easily fall into the water. Sunglasses are needed to protect your eyes from reflected glare off the water.
An unusual item that many OHV and bicycle riders (maybe horse riders too) find useful is ladies panty hose, for both men and women. It provides a slick undergarment to prevent chafing and what riders call "monkey butt". If you straddle any kind of saddle -- on dirt bike, ATV, JetSki, bicycle, or horse, a little extra protection can prevent a lot of discomfort and guard against painful "monkey butt". Lest you think it wearing panty hose is only for wimps or girls, remember there was an NFL quarterback who wore them under his uniform in pro games. There are spandex undergarments designed to do the same thing, but they cost a LOT more and tend to be somewhat hotter and bulkier. That might be a good thing in cold weather, but not particularly desirable for desert rides. An added benefit is they can help prevent your riding boots and heavy motocross socks from chafing and causing blisters on your feet. Guys might do well to buy "control top" panty hose. The extra upper support may reduce or eliminate the need to wear an athletic supporter and are generally more comfortable.
Rock climbing, mountain climbing, and spelunking each have their own specialized equipment that is necessary to even participate. Proper boots, gloves, and harnesses are essential, along with sturdy clothing that can stand up to the rigors of constant contact with rough surfaces. Hard hats are often needed too since you will frequently find yourself in areas with loose rocks. Wearing a hard hat is sometimes cumbersome and irritating. Rocks bouncing off your hard hat are annoying. Rocks bouncing off your head are painful, perhaps even fatal!
Birdwatching seems to be a pretty passive activity but you still need to be aware of your personal safety when tromping around the wilderness and especially if climbing trees, rocks, or hills to locate or follow your targets. An appropriate safety harness might be a good idea if you plan to do a lot of tree climbing. Dress for the weather and terrain. Sturdy shoes or boots, long pants, long sleeved shirts, and broad-brimmed hat should be your basic wardrobe. And always carry drinking water. Water bottles, canteen, or the oft-mentioned hydration pack will do the job. If you plan to climb trees and set up your viewing stations in them, use a safety harness to secure yourself to a sturdy trunk in case you get so enamored with your quarry that you lose your balance or a sudden gust of wind knocks you loose.
Sightseeing may seem safe enough, and, indeed, usually it is. Wear appropriate hats, sunglasses, and clothing to protect from sunburn and insects. Wear comfortable shoes and carry water to maintain hydration. Use the straps on camera equipment to help avoid it being lost if dropped or snatched! Pay close attention to warning signs and park rules to avoid potentially dangerous situations and avert getting a citation. Maintain "situational awareness" -- observe your surroundings and watch out for suspicious behavior. Many times thieves, pickpockets, con artists and muggers will target obvious tourists, viewing them as easy and affluent targets.
Keep safe!
OHV riders should ALWAYS wear helmets and goggles, regardless of whether there is a helmet law. In many places, helmets are required by law, especially for minors. Other personal protection is provided by apparel, chest protectors, gloves, elbow pads, knee pads, and riding boots. You can ride in regular shirts and pants, but I don't recommend it. Ordinary clothing doesn't provide the same protection or comfort as proper riding gear. Riding jerseys and pants are specifically designed to protect your body while allowing necessary freedom of movement and adequate ventilation. Jerseys often have some padding in the elbows and pants have hip and knee pads. Special "Windchill" jerseys and gloves will help keep you warm in cooler weather. When it is rainy or down right cold, an Enduro jacket made of Gore-Tex is in order. Even if your jersey has padded elbows, I suggest wearing elbow/arm guards for extra protection. The soft padding the jersey won't give you the same level of protection as hard plastic arm guards. I describe my riding gear as "full body armor". I wear as much protection as I can and it has saved me from some nasty consequences more than once. It includes helmet and goggles, chest protector, arm guards, gloves, hip pads in my riding pants, knee braces, kidney belt, and riding boots. You can also buy body armor that you put on like a shirt. It has shoulder and elbow pads, a built-in kidney belt, and chest and back protection. Whatever you wear may seem restrictive at first or uncomfortable, especially in warm weather, but the safety it provides is more than worth it. Proper gear can protect you from a lot of injuries. Full body armor is particularly necessary for dirt biking. It may not be as necessary riding ATVs and side-by-sides since they don't fall over as easily, but helmet, goggles, and gloves are still strongly advised. For dirt biking, I can't over-emphasize the value of full body armor. ATVs are not far behind. I wouldn't want to ride either without protection. Standard knee pads are inexpensive. They are plastic devices that fit over your knees and down your leg, kind of like fancy soccer shin guards. They protect your knee cap and shin from scrapes and bruises. If you've ever knelt on a rock. let alone fallen on one, you'll appreciate the knee protection. Knee pads usually cost less than $20. A more robust protection comes in the form of knee braces. Not only do they protect your knees and shins from bumps, they help prevent lateral displacement and over-extension of the knee. They are somewhat bulky, but the main deterrent to getting knee braces is their high cost. You can easily pay up to $500 a pair for them. I spent weeks watching ebay to find mine (used) for under $100. I have a suit of body armor that can be worn under my jersey and includes a chest protector, elbow pads, and kidney belt, but it isn't as tough as the individual components and the chest protector lacks shoulder pads. Although not part of your body armor, having a convenient drinking water supply is essential to good health on the trail. I prefer a "Camelbak" hydration pack. I add a piece of Velcro to the bite valve and a corresponding mating piece to the center of my chest protector to keep the bite valve handy and avoid having it pulled off going through bushes or trees or just falling of from the drinking tube whipping in the wind. To help keep mine cool in summer weather, I wrap it in a piece of reflective foam insulation cut from an automotive windshield cover. An old Army canteen is also a good way to carry water. That's what my buddies and I used before Camelbaks. Hydration packs are much easier to use and you can even take a sip as needed while riding, which is much better way of staying hydrated than gulping down a bunch of water when you take a break, which can lead to stomach cramps.
Horse back riding presents many of the same opportunities for injury as riding an OHV. I'm not aware of any equestrian helmet laws yet, but wearing a proper riding helmet is a good idea. Statistics I've read show there are far more head injuries from horseback riding than from motorcycle riding, yet there is no outcry for equestrian helmet laws. A riding helmet may not look as fashionable or in style as a cowboy hat, but if you get thrown, it will do you a lot more good. Speaking of cowboy hats, they do provide excellent protection from sun and rain. They just don't stand up well if your head encounters a rock, a tree limb, or a log. Chaps are a common part of the cowboy costume that is often the object of humor. However, chaps are an important part of your horse back riding protection. They guard your legs against brush and tree branches and protect your thighs against rubbing on the saddle. Gloves are needed to protect your hands against blisters and abrasions. While eye protection isn't as critical as it is for OHV activities (unless you're racing or roping or driving a herd of cattle), you will want to at least wear sunglasses to protect your eyes from the glare and over-exposure to UV radiation. Cowboys usually carried their drinking water in a big canteen slung on the saddle horn. That still works and the old, blanket wrap style canteen allows you to dampen the sides to keep the water cooler. There are also saddle horn packs that carry two water bottles and are convenient to use on the trail. A hydration pack (Camelbak) like the one I use for dirt biking is also a convenient way of staying hydrated while horseback riding and is my personal favorite.
Bicycling is a convenient companion activity to RVing and camping. A lot of people give little though to personal protective equipment for bicycling but it is worth considering. Some places require helmets, especially for children and helmets are ALWAYS a good idea. I like to wear mine over a ball cap because, like many bicycle helmets, mine doesn't have a visor and I don't like the sun in my eyes. Comfortable, light weight gloves will protect your hands from blisters and help cushion your grasp on the handlebars. You can buy special bicycling gloves but we've also find that equestrian riding gloves also work well. My favorite bicycle gloves are actually left and right handed batting gloves! Riding shorts provide comfortable crotch padding as well as necessary support for male riders. The form-fitting Spandex type material helps prevent "monkey butt". Some good sunglasses or safety glasses are needed to protect your eyes. You also might benefit from clamps or elastic bands around your right ankle to prevent your pants leg from getting caught in the chain. A helmet or handle-bar mounted mirror will help you keep track of riders behind you and watch for traffic overtaking you. Again, a Camelbak is a handy way to stay hydrated, but you can also carry water bottles in racks on the frame of your bicycle. Just be sure to make regular stops to take a sip now and then.
Most aquatic activities require flotation devices. In many places they are required by law as well as by common sense. You should always wear a Coast Guard approved flotation device when boating, rafting, canoeing, kayaking, water skiing, wake boarding, and jet skiing. Those little plastic floaties for kiddie pools don't count, not for you or for the kids. You are no longer limited to the ugly, orange kapok vests that were once the only choice. Now approved flotation devices come in both vest and belt versions and in a variety of fashionable colors. Make sure your device is Coast Guard approved, to ensure your safety as well as to comply with legal requirements. For many aquatic activities a good hat and sunglasses are needed to protect your face, neck, and eyes from sunburn. Waterproof sunblock is needed to prevent sunburn. Remember to consider the reflected sunlight as well as direct exposure. You can get a nasty burn from reflection while seated in the shade on the beach or on the covered deck of a boat. UV rays can penetrate clouds, so don't ignore sunblock on cloudy days. If you do, you'll regret it!
Most people don't think of camping as an activity that needs personal protective equipment, but they are wrong! There are many camping activities, even when camping in an RV, that benefit from protective equipment. Sturdy leather gloves are at the top of my list. Y ou need them when cutting and handling fire wood, pounding and pulling tent stakes, handling hot pots and pans, and a myriad of other manual tasks around the camp site. Goggles should also be worn when cutting wood. I would also recommend wearing a broad-brimmed hat and sunglasses to protect you from the sun. Sunglasses will help protect your eyes against UV rays and painful glare. While wearing tank tops and short shorts may provide simulating entertainment or humorous diversions to your fellow campers depending on your physique, you are better off wearing light weight, long sleeved shirts and long pants. It protects you from sunburn and insects, reflects direct sunlight to keep you cooler, and allows perspiration to do a better job of cooling your body. Sturdy shoes are advised. You will see a lot of people at campgrounds in flip-flops and sandals, but they are risking injury or insect bites. Be especially dubious of wearing open footwear when desert camping, where poisonous insects are common. Ticks are a common problem in the woods and they are often carries of Lyme Disease. You can probably get away with wearing sandals and flip-flops in a paved campground or at the beach -- it you don't mind the pale strap-marks that will be there when you remove them after a day or two in the sun or the sunburn you may get on exposed areas. RVers should wear disposable rubber gloves whenever they are dumping holding tanks or handling the sewer hose and holding tank chemicals. They might also be helpful when refueling or when checking your oil, unless you like to smell of gasoline or used motor oil on your fingers. You could even consider oven mitts and hot pads as PPE for camp cooking.
Why do I need PPE for hiking? After all, its just walking. In the first place, hiking is usually a lot more than just walking. Hiking has a few items of personal protective equipment to ensure safety. Sturdy boots top the list. They need to be adequate to support your ankles and protect your feet from stones, poison insects and snakes. Proper socks are needed to keep your feet comfortable. Not only do socks cushion your feet, they provide insulation to keep your feet warmer in winter and cooler in summer and provide protection against chafing that can cause blisters. Good hiking socks will wick sweat away from your skin. In fact, if you check out footwear recommendations for hiking you will see descriptions of entire sock systems involving multiple layers to ensure maximum comfort and safety in all seasons. Like any other outdoor activity, you should protect your head and eyes from too much sun. A lot of hikers wear baseball caps, but broad-brimmed hats protect your neck as well as your face and, besides keeping your neck from getting sunburned, that can be a real advantage if you get caught in the rain. I, for one, really hate having rain run down my back! As always, wear sunglasses to protect your eyes. Some light gloves might be helpful to protect your hands, especially if you're using a walking stick or hiking anyplace you have to do any rock climbing. Though more for comfort than personal protection (unless you have to use it as a weapon), a walking stick is a good thing to have. If you've never tried hiking with one, check it out. You'll be surprised how much stress it takes off your legs and back. A lot of hikers just use an old tree branch but some prefer commercial walking sticks. You can even get light weight telescoping aluminum walking sticks for added convenience. Some of these have built in shock absorbers for even more comfort. Due to the exertion of hiking, hydration is VERY IMPORTANT, so carry a canteen, water bottles, or wear a hydration pack. Jackets appropriate to the climate and weather are also advisable. It is smart to dress in layers so you can adjust your clothing as temperatures -- air and/or body temperature -- demands. I have something called a "JackPack" that is a combination jacket and back pack. It isn't very heavy but would provide some protection against a sudden summer shower as well as for carrying a few essential items. An inexpensive plastic poncho is always a good thing to tuck in your pocket or your pack. They are about the size and weight of a folder handkerchief so they aren't cumbersome to carry and having one could save you from getting soaked in a sudden summer storm. And remember, you lose body heat 25 times as fast in wet clothes. You can get dangerously hypothermic even in mild weather (temps in the 70s Fahrenheit) if your clothes are wet.
Hunting and fishing have their own special needs. If you are a hunter, you are aware that many hunting seasons occur in winter when you will need appropriate cold weather gear. You also know you need to dress to be seen, so other hunters don't mistake you for game. A lot of hunting clothing uses various camouflage designs. While that might make you harder for your prey to see, it also makes you harder for other hunters to see. Since many animals are color blind, it is far more important that fellow hunters see you than animals don't. If your parka isn't bright orange, wear a bright safety vest. In warm weather you can wear the vest over your shirt without much discomfort. You will also need to address how you carry your weapons and ammo. Holsters and ammo bands or bags should be sturdy, comfortable, and easily accessible. Hydration is an important issue so carry a canteen or wear a hydration pack. Sturdy boots are a necessity for tramping through the woods and fields . If you're in an area where you might encounter poisonous snakes, high top boots are advised. About the only special gear I've seen for fishing are hip-waders (and a cool fishing hat!). If you plan to spend time in the water, you'll need these for both comfort and to reduce hypothermia. You might even want to wear a wet suit inside of them for extra protection. Always exercise caution when wearing hip-waders. Take care not to venture into deep water. If water comes over the top of the waders they will quickly fill up and drag you down. Make sure you know how to get out of them quickly if the need arises. A good fishing hat should protect your face and neck from sunburn. Many fisherman decorate theirs with lures. If you do, make sure there are no exposed hooks to snag your scalp or your fingers! Sunglasses will be essential to protecting your eyes from the reflections off the water . Flotation devices are advisable, especially if you're fishing from a boat or pier or where you might easily fall into the water. Sunglasses are needed to protect your eyes from reflected glare off the water.
An unusual item that many OHV and bicycle riders (maybe horse riders too) find useful is ladies panty hose, for both men and women. It provides a slick undergarment to prevent chafing and what riders call "monkey butt". If you straddle any kind of saddle -- on dirt bike, ATV, JetSki, bicycle, or horse, a little extra protection can prevent a lot of discomfort and guard against painful "monkey butt". Lest you think it wearing panty hose is only for wimps or girls, remember there was an NFL quarterback who wore them under his uniform in pro games. There are spandex undergarments designed to do the same thing, but they cost a LOT more and tend to be somewhat hotter and bulkier. That might be a good thing in cold weather, but not particularly desirable for desert rides. An added benefit is they can help prevent your riding boots and heavy motocross socks from chafing and causing blisters on your feet. Guys might do well to buy "control top" panty hose. The extra upper support may reduce or eliminate the need to wear an athletic supporter and are generally more comfortable.
Rock climbing, mountain climbing, and spelunking each have their own specialized equipment that is necessary to even participate. Proper boots, gloves, and harnesses are essential, along with sturdy clothing that can stand up to the rigors of constant contact with rough surfaces. Hard hats are often needed too since you will frequently find yourself in areas with loose rocks. Wearing a hard hat is sometimes cumbersome and irritating. Rocks bouncing off your hard hat are annoying. Rocks bouncing off your head are painful, perhaps even fatal!
Birdwatching seems to be a pretty passive activity but you still need to be aware of your personal safety when tromping around the wilderness and especially if climbing trees, rocks, or hills to locate or follow your targets. An appropriate safety harness might be a good idea if you plan to do a lot of tree climbing. Dress for the weather and terrain. Sturdy shoes or boots, long pants, long sleeved shirts, and broad-brimmed hat should be your basic wardrobe. And always carry drinking water. Water bottles, canteen, or the oft-mentioned hydration pack will do the job. If you plan to climb trees and set up your viewing stations in them, use a safety harness to secure yourself to a sturdy trunk in case you get so enamored with your quarry that you lose your balance or a sudden gust of wind knocks you loose.
Sightseeing may seem safe enough, and, indeed, usually it is. Wear appropriate hats, sunglasses, and clothing to protect from sunburn and insects. Wear comfortable shoes and carry water to maintain hydration. Use the straps on camera equipment to help avoid it being lost if dropped or snatched! Pay close attention to warning signs and park rules to avoid potentially dangerous situations and avert getting a citation. Maintain "situational awareness" -- observe your surroundings and watch out for suspicious behavior. Many times thieves, pickpockets, con artists and muggers will target obvious tourists, viewing them as easy and affluent targets.
Keep safe!
Sunday, October 21, 2012
RVs and Camping as Disaster Recovery Options
Disasters can strike anytime, anyplace. Some locations are more susceptible than others and what is likely to occur varies greatly from place to place. If you live in southern California, you're probably used to earthquakes. Mid-west folks live with tornadoes. East and gulf coast areas suffer from hurricanes. Wildfires plague many states and winter storms are potential problems throughout most of the northern climes. Fires, floods, and chemical spills can occur anywhere. If you live anywhere near a rail line, freeway, or major highway there are probably hazardous loads traveling close enough to require you to evacuate if there is an accident. I have personally had to live with floods, wildfires, tornoadoes, and earthquakes.
What does RVing and camping have to do with disasters? Well, other than the fact that some outings might be described as disasters (hopefully very few), your RV can be used as a Disaster Recovery Vehicle and all your camping skills and equipment could be life-saving and at the very least, may add a lot of comfort and convenience to any disaster survival/recovery situation you might find yourself in.
RVs make very good disaster recovery vehicles, especially if you are able to keep them fully stocked and ready to use. Think about it. A motorhome or trailer provides shelter, cooking, sleeping, and sanitation facilities. Properly stocked it becomes a first aid station. It could even become you bug out vehicle if you have to evacuate your home. If your residence is damaged in an emergency situation you could temporarily live in your tent. Not only might you be more comfortable and private than in a Red Cross shelter set up in a local school or church, but you'll be where you may be able to protect your belongings from looters and possibly have access to things as you need them. If a disaster forces you to evacuate your home, having an RV to move into will greatly simplify your evacuation and improve your comfort until it is safe to return to your residence. A chlorine gas cloud once forced us to evacuate our suburban home in southern California. We drove our motorhome to a church parking lot outside the evacuation area and were quite comfortable as we waited for the "all clear" to return home, far more comfortable than the dozens of strangers crammed into the church gym.
Using a boat as a disaster recovery vehicle may not be the first thing that comes to mind, but it may be worth considering. If you have any kind of boat with a cabin and it is stored where you have access to it in a disaster, it might give you a fairly comfortable base to protect you from the elements and provide basic creature comforts. It occurred to me that our sailboat, moored safely out of reach of the Holiday Farm Fire on the McKenzie River could have been our only refuge had our home and RV stored there been consumed by the flames. Fortunately we were 3 miles up river and up wind of the start of the fire and the winds took the fire miles in the other direction, sparing our home -- but having evacuated, it was about a week before we could even find out if our home survived.
Having good camping skills can serve you well in an emergency. It is generally understood that professional emergency services (fire, police, ambulance, hospital) will be inoperable or overwhelmed for at least 1-3 days and quite likely up to 2 weeks following a major local disaster. Some scenarios say it could be months before a return to normal. During that time you will be on your own. Being able to take care of yourself without utilities could mean the difference between surviving comfortably and suffering. Camp cooking and knowing how to take care of sanitation needs will be essential skills following a disaster. First aid and even more advanced medical skills could be life-saving in a disaster situation. My wife and I serve on our volunteer fire department and are pursuing training as Emergency Medical Responders. Depending on the nature and extent of the emergency, first responders and doctors and hospitals may be inoperative for days or weeks. Remember, YOU are the only first responder you can really count on.
For your RV or camping equipment to be effective in an emergency it will have to be accessible and be stored where it is fairly safe from damage that would render it unusable. It must also be ready to use. Empty propane tanks or having no fuel for your camp stove will quickly make your RV or camp stove useless. Inoperable or damaged equipment may be more of a liability than an asset, so keep everything in good shape. You don't want to pull out your trusty Coleman stove in a disaster only to find the fuel tank has sprung a leak, the pump is worn out, or the generator needs to be replaced.
We were about the only house our our block with consistently functioning refrigerator and television for a day or two following the 1994 Northridge earthquake in southern California. In addition to using our RV facilities, I ran an extension cord into the house to keep our residential fridge running during the day so we didn't loose any of the food stored therein. It stayed cold enough overnight without power so we didn't have to worry about bothering the neighbors by running the generator during quiet hours. ON another occasion, we had to evacuate when our neighborhood was threatened by a poisonous chlorine gas cloud. A fork lift had knocked the valve off a large chlorine tank in a local supply yard and the whole west end of our city was evacuated. It happened when I was at work 50 miles away but my wife had the presence of mind to use the motorhome for evacuation so we weren't stuck in some Red Cross shelter with hundreds of other noisy and otherwise obnoxious people. More recently we were in a Level 3 evacuation zone ("Get Out Now!") for the Holiday Farm fire in the McKenzie River valley in Oregon. Having an emergency generator allowed me to run lights, heaters, refrigerators and the microwave oven during the 2 weeks we were without power following the fire.
Emergency supplies should be included in your RV and camping provisions. Keep your first aid kits up to date. You may want to augment your camping first aid kit with additional supplies you might need in a disaster. Try to have at least 3 days worth of non-perishable foods. If you are not subject to freezing winter weather, keep your RV fresh water tank full. Tent campers and folks who do live in cold climates should store water indoors for emergency use. You need 2-3 gallons per person per day, or 9 gallons per person to give you a 3-day emergency buffer. Keep extra clothing in your RV or with your camping gear or have a "grab and go" bag prepared in case you have to evacuate. Normally you'll have 40-50 gallons of water in your hot water heater you can drain off for drinking and cooking. And unless you put those blue tablets in your toilet tank you have close to another 5 gallons of fresh water there -- if you don't flush it! If the sewer system hasn't been damaged you could refill the toilet tank with water from showers or washing dishes or non-potable water from streams, ditches, or even puddles.
Pets and livestock are often forgotten when making an emergency preparedness plan. But given how much a part of our families and our lives our pets often become, they should be included. For small household pets, have a bag or case of food set aside with your own emergency supplies. For livestock, try to maintain at least a couple of weeks worth of food on hand and have a plan for getting water if your normal water supply is interrupted. You should acclimate your household pets to your RV so they won't be frantic if you suddenly move them into your rolling home. Take them along on a camping trip or two or spend a weekend or two driveway camping so they get used to their temporary home. Know where and how you'll transport livestock if their current habitat becomes uninhabitable. Where can you get water? How will you transport it?
Survive in style!
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