How We Got Into Sailing -- Free Sailboat!

Yeah, you heard me right!  We got a sailboat for free!  It was nearly 50 years old -- a 1970 MacGregor Venture 24.  It came with 2 sets of sails, a working outboard motor with very low hours, and the original trailer.  It has a swing keel so it trailers easily.  I couldn't believe it when I came across the ad on our local craigslist.   It was exactly the kind of boat I'd dreamed of owning for most of my life and it seemed too good to be true.  But I figured it didn't cost anything to respond to the ad and, you know the saying, "nothing ventured, nothing gained".  I was pleasantly surprised when I got a fast response from the "seller".  He said the response to the ad had "exploded" (imagine that!) and since he couldn't meet with all the interested parties individually he scheduled a Saturday morning for us all  to come look it over.  The deal was that if there were still more than one interested party after inspecting the boat, whomever emailed him first on Sunday would get the boat.  Out of hundreds of inquiries he received about 18-20 people comprising 8 - 10 interested families or groups who actually showed up for the showing.  My wife and I made a point of getting there early and it paid off because we got to meet the owner and his wife and chat with them a little bit before the other folks showed up.

OK, so why was he giving away a good sailboat for free?  Definitely a good question and one we all very much wanted answered.  Turns out HE got the boat for free off craigslist a little over a year before and had just gotten another free sailboat -- this time a 36 footer!  The previous owner of the Venture 24 was getting older and had injured  his back so he couldn't sail anymore.  The boat needed a little work and he hadn't been able to find a buyer and his own kids were not interested in having it.  So he advertised it for free on craigslist and the gentleman I got it from was the only one who responded.  He re-did all the standing rigging and purchased a good set of used sails to augment the well-used set that came with the boat.  Then, when he got a 36' sailboat for free, he and his wife decided to "pay it forward" by giving away the 24' Venture.   He got his second free sailboat from an acquaintance at work who was tired of paying registration, insurance and moorage fees on a boat he never used.  Since the 36 footer is better suited to the couple's goal of eventually being able to live and travel on a sailboat, they jumped at the chance to upgrade.  Having spent a few weekends on our 24 footer I can appreciate his zeal in getting a 36' boat to live on!  Not sure it would be as easy to sail though.  For weekends our 24 footer is comfortable and fun; living aboard full time would be a real challenge.  Our "seller" did warn us he had been told there was problem raising the swing keel but he had never tried it.

After looking over the boat and determining it was structurally solid (but could use some TLC), we decided we wanted to be first in that email line on Sunday morning.  With that in mind I began sending emails about 11:30 pm (not knowing  how long it would take to reach the owner) and kept re-sending about every 5 minutes until well after midnight.   You can imagine how thrilled we were to get a call Sunday morning telling us we had been selected as the recipients of the Venture 24!

As I mentioned above, it  definitely needed some TLC -- the once beautiful teak trim was all weathered an ugly concrete gray and the gelcoat on the topside was crazed from nearly 50 years in the elements.  With a little research on the Internet I discovered the faded teak could be restored to very near its original color by cleaning it with oxalic acid, then rubbing it down with teak oil and re-varnishing it.  I was amazed at  how quickly and beautifully it cleaned up!   The topside gelcoat was somewhat crazed from sunlight and the bottom needed repainting.  We decided to paint the entire boat inside and out, which was kind of a fun winter project, letting us enjoy and get familiar with our boat even though it was too cold outside for sailing.  We chose a semi-gloss, exterior acrylic latex paint for the interior and special oil-based marine Topside and Bottom paint for the exterior.   As anyone who has ever done any painting knows, preparation is not only the key to success, but at least 80% of the effort.   Cleaning, sanding, wiping down, and masking each section took much longer than the actual painting, but when we were done we were very pleased.  Not only did it look brand new, it had colors we liked.  The original faded non-skid deck paint had been a bland beige.  We painted it sky blue.  We were very pleased with the results and the nice compliments we got from other boaters.  The seller 's ad disclosed that he had been told there was a problem with raising the swing keel, but we had no problem at all when we trailered the boat to bring it home.  We just cranked it up as we piloted the boat onto the trailer and it worked perfectly.

Although the fiberglass hull and all  the other major components (mast, boom, rudder, keel, and rigging) were all solid, the wiring was in sad shape.  None of the lights worked, inside or out.  I discovered someone had run the lighting using ordinary zip cord.  Marine wiring is quite specialized -- in order to withstand the rigors of a constantly moist and often salt-air environment.  Marine wiring consists of many more smaller, tinned copper strands than ordinary automotive wiring of the same gauge.  Of course that makes it harder to find and more expensive, but seeing what happened to the zip wire quickly convinced me to use only marine rated wire when I re-wired the boat.  The little 12-volt power panel was such a convoluted tangle of wires that I completely stripped it down and started over.  None of the existing navigation lights were functional so I replaced them with modern LED versions that will use very little power and the bulbs will last for thousands of hours.  I replaced all the interior lights with LED fixtures too, then added a 30 Watt solar panel and controller to charge the battery.

The trailer had been sitting for years and both the bunk boards the boat rests on had to be replaced.  I upgraded from the original 2x4s to 2x6s.  The tires looked like new -- even still had the little "mold mark" pins of rubber sticking out.  But a quick check of the dates showed they had timed out years ago so we bought new tires before towing the boat about 120 miles home.  I also rebuilt the hubs with new wheel bearings just for added safety and replaced all the lights and wiring.

There is a saying that "A boat is a hole in the water into which you throw money!" and I can see how easily that could  happen.  I soon learned that in addition to special wiring and special paints that are both more expensive than their more common household equivalents, there are hundreds and hundreds of very appealing options for boaters, ranging from basic deck shoes and clothing to exotic electronics for communication, navigation, depth finding, even fish finding and entertainment.  I guess I can be glad I have a sailboat.  At least I won't be paying high prices for marine fuel or high cost of maintenance and repairs on complicated engines and drive trains.  The simple 2-stroke outboard motor on our sailboat should be fairly easy to work on when it needs service or repair, much like the 2-stroke dirt bikes I've worked on for decades.

I learned several interesting facts about our little Venture 24.   They have a reputation for being almost unsinkable--but so was the Titanic!  It is said you can heel one over until the top of the mast is in the water and it will right itself, due to the 500 lb swing keel hanging out the bottom.   I was surprised to learn it will sleep 5 people!  It doesn't have built in sanitation like a larger vessel might have but it does have a nice little stainless steel kitchen sink and a porta-potty.  The galley has a shelf designed to hold a camp stove and the dinette makes down into one of  the beds.  The main sleeping area is the V-berth in the bow.  It is as wide as a queen side bed at the head and about 9" wide at the foot.  It is fairly comfortable if you don't mind playing footsie with your partner.  The walnut grained Formica table was very badly faded and the edging was missing when we got it.  I was getting quite discouraged when I searched for remedies online only to learn the Formica would probably have to be replaced or painted.  Some folks suggested furniture polish like Lemon Pledge and I was excited when it perked it right up, but it quickly faded again as it dried  Then my wife suggested I try the SC-1 detail spray I use religiously on our dirt bikes.  I was a bit skeptical, but the SC-1 restored it to a near new color that lasts and lasts.  Its been at least 4 years and it is still looking good.  I found some walnut grain iron on tape to replace the missing edging.  The little 24' boat makes a really nice base for extended weekend outings, proving both fun recreational activities and comfortable weatherproof overnight accommodations.

As much as we love dirt biking, I have to admit there are some summer days that are just too hot and too dry to enjoy safely riding the trails.   Here where we now live in Oregon, many forested riding areas get closed due to high fire danger during the late summer.  Being able to head out on the water and be able to dive right off the boat to cool off is a fun and welcome alternative on hot days.  One of the the things a really like about skippering a sailboat instead of a power boat is the choice of adventure.  If you like just relaxing, set a course downwind.  You can "ghost" along and since the wind is pushing you, you hardly feel any breeze at all as it carries you along at almost the same speed as the wind.  But if you want more excitement, turn around and sail back into the wind.  Now a sailboat can't really sail directly into the wind.  In fact, if the bow is pointed directly into the wind the boat is said to be "in irons" and it won't go anywhere, unless you count being pushed backwards!  Sailing into the wind means tacking back and forth across the wind at an angle of no less than 45 degrees to the wind.  When you do this the wind fills the sail and turns it into an airfoil (like an airplane wing) and the "lift " pushes the boat along.  When doing this the boat will often heel over 15° or so and you can really feel the speed and the wind  and often spray on your face.  It isn't unusual to heel over so far water is coming over the rail into the boat!  However, I was told years ago, as long as the water coming over the rail is white and not green, you're OK.   Wind can generate a surprising amount of power and speed.  Remember, wind was essentially the only way to move large vessels on the water for thousands of years.  Wind powered the discovery of American and the first circumnavigation of the globe.  I've even seen sailboats tow water skiers!  When I lived in Marina Del Rey near Los Angeles, California some years ago, there was a guy with a little 10-12' sailing catamaran who would take it out and tow water skiers with it when most of the power boats were seeking shelter during small craft warnings.

Recently saw a Youtube touting 13 ways sailing is better than power boating.  Of course the presenter is biased but I did agree with most of his points.   If you prefer motor boating, go for it!  I particularly like the variety of experiences sailing offers -- it can be very exciting to tack into the wind, sometimes heeling over so far water comes in over the rail, or you can "ghost" downwind and it will be calm and relaxing even n windy days.  Sailing avoids the noise and exhaust fumes of motors and you can often sail long distances without burning any fuel.

My interest in sailing began long before we found a free sailboat.   I had joined a sailing club associated with a company I worked for in southern California many years ago and learned the basics sailing a 14' cat boat around Marina Del Rey.  For a while I owned a little 8' sabot I sailed on Harbor Cove in New Jersey and when I went to scout camp as an assistant scoutmaster with one of my son's Boy Scout troops, I spent most of the week getting their sailboats (6-8 of them) back in the water and giving a few basic sailing lessons.  One of their boats was a 19' lightning class that I found was really fun to sail.  Until I got the Venture 24 it was the largest boat I'd ever sailed.  I had day dreamed about one day owning a daysailer and when the Venture 24 ad popped up and I saw the photo it was EXACTLY what I'd always wanted.

By the way, there are other ways to find free boats.  In fact there is an entire web site devoted to Free Boats.  You can also find cheap boats on ebay where at least one charity offers boats for sale that have been donated to them, allowing them to auction them off at ridiculously low prices.  However, as always, caveat emptor -- buyer beware!  Many free boats will need a lot of work, may have significant structural problems, or may have some hidden legal encumbrances such as past-due moorage, registration,  or storage fees.   You will also be responsible for transporting the boat from its current location to where ever you need to take it.   If the boat comes with a trailer you will have to make sure it is servicable before moving the boat.   If it doen't have its own trailer you will have to pay to have it loaded onto a trailer and taken where you want it.  Salvaged boats may have spent some time underwater and may have hidden damage.  Getting a professional marine survey is a good way to find out if a boat is worth buying, but the come at some cost ($18-$25 per foot).  Surveys will establish the value of the boat and expose items in need of repair or replacement.  Be sure you are prepared to handle what ever work is needed -- either by doing it yourself or having the budget to pay a professional to do it for you.  After all, there is usually a good reason if a boat is free!  And consider where it is located and how you will get it home -- or at least to its new home.  Sometimes you can hire a crew to pilot your boat from where it is to another marina of your choice, like buying a boat in Bermuda and having it taken to Florida,  but that is not always an option.  Transporting a large vessel over land can be very expensive so consider that if it doesn't come with a trailer or you don't have a vehicle that will pull it.  I saw a guy who bought a wonderful sailboat for just $200 and had to pay around $3000 to get it home!  A trailerable boat will mitigate that risk to some extent, but be sure the trailer is up to snuff.  Many times it has been sitting a long time and the tires will need to be replaced and the wheel bearings serviced if not replaced before it can be used to haul the boat.  Also check the hitch, safety chains, lights, wiring, and brakes.  If the trailer has wooden bunk boards, make sure they aren't damaged or weakened by rot.  Make sure you can fasten the boat securely to the trailer.  I use a pair of 2 1/2"ratchet straps around the hull and fastened to the trailer rails in addition to the eyebolt on the bow that is used to winch the boat onto and secure it on the trailer.

Sail away!

OHV Tips for Riding Hills

Most of the off road trails you will ride on or in your OHV will include hills you will have to negotiate.   Climbing, descending, or crossing hills (slopes)  requires specific skills that are different from what you need for traveling on level ground.  But it can also be one of the most fun parts of trail riding.  Of course you should master handling your OHV on level ground before trying any hills!

Climbing hills.  For climbing hills with any type of OHV, the first thing you need to do is determine if the hill you are facing is within the capabilities of you and your machine.  If not, find a way around or turn around and go back.  Next, most people will try to get a little run at the hill, but be sure not to go so fast that you are unsafe or begin to lose control.  Sooner or later you are likely to encounter a hill you cannot get over the top of.  When that happens, you need to know how to safely get back down.   How you do that will depend on what kind of OHV you are operating.  For a dirt bike, shut off the engine, put the transmission in 1st gear.  Then get off the bike on the up hill side and gently turn the front wheel, release the clutch to let the bike roll until it is approximately cross ways from your original hill climbing direction.  Then turn the wheel downhill and align the bike headed downhill, carefully remount the bike, and ride back down the  hill.  You may want to release the clutch and let the engine start and you can use engine braking to help control the speed of your descent and the gyrocsopic affects of the engine to aid balance.  If you are riding an ATV you will want to set the parking brake, dismount, and drag or push the front of of the ATV around until it is angled downhill.  Always stay on the uphill side of the machine if you can.  Then remount, release the brake, and ride down the hill.  Make sure you don't put yourself where the machine might tip over on you!  As with a dirt bike, let the engine start and use engine braking to help control your downhill speed.  Side-by-sides are incredibly difficult to turn around when climbing a hill so it is usually best to simply back down slowly way before you get into an impossible situation, carefully watching behind you (over your shoulder or via mirrors).  In some cases you might want to have someone get out and guide you via hand signals or verbal commands (if you can hear them over the engine noise).  If the hill isn't TOO steep you might be able to turn around and drive down but there is a significant risk of roll over whenever a UTV is sideways on a hill.

Descending hills.  It seems counterintuitive but going down hills can be more difficult than going up them.  After all, you have gravity working for you going down hill, right?  A common problem for all OHVs when descending hills is going too fast as gravity pulls you and your ride down the slope.  The first defense is to downshift to increase engine braking to reduce speed.  Then use your brakes judiciously.  Overuse of the front brake on dirt bikes or ATVs may cause the machine to flip over the  handlebars so use the front brake sparingly if at all.  Once you reach the bottom of the hill and begin to level out you can use both brakes to continue to slow down or stop as desired.  It is not uncommon to continue sliding downhill even after the brakes have locked up the wheel(s).  You never want to lock up the front wheel (s) because then you lose the ability to steer the vehicle.  You can usually use engine braking to help slow descents.  Shifting into lower gears increase the amount of braking to help maintain slower speeds.

Crossing Hills.  Crossing hills on a dirt bike is fairly straightforward, as long as you keep the bike balanced and keep enough forward momentum.  You don't want to stop where you can't put your foot down to stabilize your bike!  If you encounter a problem crossing a hill that requires you to slow or stop, lean uphill and put that foot down for stabilization.  Crossing hills with ATVs and side-by-sides is generally not a good idea.  You might be able to do it if the slope isn't too steep, but all too often, by the time you can make that determination, it is too late and your machine is already starting to roll over.  Sometimes you can help keep an ATV stable crossing a slope by leaning uphill to help counter the pull of gravity that is trying to make it roll over.  There really is no good way to cross a steep slope in a UTV.   Gravity is going to want to roll it over unless the slope is gentle enough to keep the center of gravity low.  Since you can't shift your weight in a side-by-side to assist crossing  hills, it is better not to try it at all if there is any doubt you can make it without rolling over.

Have a hill of a time  -- and stay safe!

Useful Electronic Devices When Camping

Why would anyone want to use electronic devices when camping?  Aren't camping and other outdoor activities a way to escape our dependence on electronic devices?  Absolutely!  Yet there may be times, if we are carefully selective, when electronic devices may actually enhance our fun.  Teenagers today are highly connected to their electronic devices and would likely consider total disconnection to be cruel and unusual punishment.  While learning to live without them has its character-building advantages, being able to accommodate their occasional wants and needs may make a trip more enjoyable for everyone.

Our modern world is highly dependent on electronic devices.  We rely on our computers, cell phones, GPSs and (at least for teens and wannabe teens) hand-held video games.  While we often go camping to escape some of the electronic tethers that tend to control our lives, there are also times we will want or even need to use them.  All of these are marvelous inventions that provide wonderful capabilities, but they also require support, most importantly power and often cell tower or Internet access.  Both electrical power and cell tower or Internet access are often scarce in a camping environment.  If you are car camping or in an RV you should have ready access to 12-volt battery power.  Many RVs also have 120-volt generators. Inverters can convert 12 volt DC power from the battery in your car or RV to 120 volt power to run electronic gadgets.  If you take your portable devices with you out on the trails, you may need to bring along some kind of auxiliary battery or charger to recharge them.  Solar chargers are especially well-suited for camping and other off road endeavors.

One of the most useful devices for campers is a GPS system or a cell phone with GPS.  Being able to get turn-by-turn directions to where you’re going saves a lot of unintended detours and can avoid a lot of bad roads, traffic, and construction.  Some GPS systems are even appropriate for off-road use, tracking your exact route and allowing you to reverse the route to get back to camp should you get disoriented or encounter poor visibility that would prevent you from using landmarks to find your way back.   The digital camera on most modern cell phones can be an invaluable aid if you have to make repairs in the field.  Take a picture of things BEFORE you take them apart so you have a good reference for how they go back together.

CB radios and FMRS/GMRS walkie talkies can provide excellent short-range communications between vehicles in a convoy or between riders or hikers out on a trail.   FMRS radios do not require a license.  GMRS radios have some higher output channels that give you greater range but do require an FCC license.  Some of the FMRS/GMRS channels overlap CB channels so you can use your CB base station in camp to monitor communications among members of your group out on the trail. That might be particularly important if someone needs assistance, such as mechanical problems or a medical emergency.  HAM radios can give you greater range, especially if you can make use of  "repeaters" operated by Ham Radio Clubs or other organizations in the area.  HAM signals sometimes take advantage of "skip" to reach far distant stations.  That means you might be able to reach someone on the other side of the country but not someone behind the next hill!

We have successfully used inexpensive walkie-talkies to communicate between riders on dirt bike rides.  We just pack the radios in a pocket of the Cambelbak hydration packs we're already wearing.  Headsets with microphones and either voice activated or push-to-talk switches let use use them without taking them out or even removing our helmets.  There are also really nice helmet mounted communication systems that work very well but they tend to be a bit more expensive than common walkie-talkies, like about 10 times the cost!

 

For many years portable radios have provided information and entertainment in campgrounds and on the trail.  A popular option is a pocket size transistor radio.  Some of them even have FM steror sound and the often fit in your pocket!  Portable cassette and CD players provide even more options.  Just make sure you bring extra batteries or have a way to recharge your equipment.  Solar chargers are especially appealing to tent campers but even RVers can put them to good use.   They can be used to obtain important weather reports that might affect your outing as well as providing entertainment and background music for some activities.  NOAA weather radios are particularly good for this.

Laptops, tablets, and smart phones give us highly portable computer power we can use almost anywhere we go.  If you happen to be within range of a cell tower, you may even be able to access the Internet from your phone or tablet.  That can be helpful if you need help with an emergency repair or just to look up some bit of information relevant to your situation.  And, if you really need an electronic "fix" for your gaming or movie addiction, you might be able to accommodate even that.  We have taken advantage of the hot spot on our cell phones to power Internet to bring Roku to the TV in our RV, giving us almost ulimited movies and TV shows to escape bad weather in camp.

Portable electronic devices depend on reliable battery power.  Hand-held CBs and walkie talkies may have rechargeable or replaceable batteries.  You can usually remove rechargeable battery packs and replace them with ordinary batteries in a  pinch.  Always carry a good supply of replacement batteries for all your hand-held devices.  Cell phones and GPSs usually have only rechargeable batteries so you will need a way to recharge them in camp.  Many such devices these days use a USB charge cable that can be connected to a computer or 12-volt or 120-volt charger.  12-volt chargers plug into the cigarette lighter or 12-volt power receptacle on your vehicle or battery power pack.  You can purchase pocket-sized auxiliary battery packs with USB connectors to recharge most GPSs, cell phones, etc if you need or want to carry extra power with you out on the trail.  In camp you can use the 12-volt charger plugged into your vehicle.  We have noticed that our cell phones charge faster using the 120-volt wall charger than with the 12-volt car charger so we usually use a small inverter plugged into the cigarette lighter to power the wall charger to charge our portable devices.   One advantage to the car chargers are that they are fairly inexpensive.  You can even get them at Dollar Tree, along with standard sync cables for Android phones (Lighting cables for iPhones are harder to find and more expensive).  Be aware that although the car chargers may look the same they may not always act the same and deliver the same performance as the OEM chargers from your phone manufacturer.  In some cases, using an unapproved charger may even void your warranty!  However, in my experience, the only problems I have encountered have more to do with reliability and longevity and a longer charging time.  I have also discovered that all 12-volt chargers usually take longer to charge my phone than a wall charger.  So we usually use a small inverter that plugs into the cigarette lighter in the car and then run the wall charger off that instead of using a 12-volt charger. 

Using high-quality replaceable batteries will usually give you the best performance and they will usually last longer than cheaper batteries.  Alkaline batteries are usually better than standard batteries and newer lithium ion batteries can deliver even better performance, but in each case you pay for what you get.  Because my backup batteries often sit around in my camp kit or motorhome for some time before getting used I tend to avoid stocking up on high priced batteries that may be dead by the time I need them.  Instead, I stock up on inexpensive batteries at Dollar Tree or get them on coupon sales at Harbor Freight so I always have plenty on hand for each trip.

Portable power packs (rechargeable batteries) can be used to power or recharge cell phones and other small hand-held devices on the go.  A attractive alternative that provides free power (once you pay for the charger!) is a solar battery charger.  These use solar panels to charge your batteries using only sunlight.  The only problems I’ve found with them are that 1) they tend to be a little pricey and 2) the are usually somewhat awkward to carry conveniently when hiking or trail riding.  However, both the cost and the effort to bring them along may be well worth it to be able to recharge your devices in remote areas.  Portable solar chargers that are small enough to be carried with you are becoming fairly affordable and can mean the difference between using your cell phone or simply cursing it!  For many years I used a small solar charger that plugged into the cigarette lighter and sat on the dashboard to add a little extra power to my vehicle batteries in camp.  It wouldn't recharge a dead battery but it acted liked a trickle charger to help keep batteries charged during daylight hours.  It was inexpensive (under $30) and very easy to use.

Because our excursions away from camp are usually measured in hours, not days, I don’t usually carry spare batteries with me out on the trail.  I just check batteries in radios and flashlights before each outing and replace any that are getting low before we take off.  If you are going to be back-packing or engaging in some other activity where you will be away from your base camp for more than a few hours you may want to carry spare batteries for your flashlights, lanterns, and your electronic devices.  Solar LED lanterns are becoming a viable option for remote camping.  Some even have USB  ports to charge your cell phones or other small electronic devices.  They are kind of the best of both worlds:  efficient portable light that can be recharged for free anywhere you have sunlight.  I wouldn’t recommend them for spelunking or cave diving!   Just remember to take them out of your tent and put them out in the sun every day to recharge.  LEDs low power demand means you get the most out of each charge.  I've seen an LED lantern still bright for months after being left on in the barn all night.  Do that with an ordinary incandescent type light and the battery would have been long dead way before morning!

While RV camping with 12 volt battery banks and 120 volt generators lends itself to the use of just about all the electronic (and electric) gadgets you have at home, tent campers may be able to avail themselves of many electronic opportunities.  With lots of battery powered devices and with modern portable generators now being smaller, quieter, and more affordable, even tent campers can enjoy a wide range of modern conveniences in camp.

Solar chargers, hand cranked chargers, and battery packs are available to recharge cell phones and other small USB devices out on the trail.  You will see USB charging ports built in to some solar lanterns and even propane powered stoves!

One more important aspect for using electronic devices when camping:  be thoughtful and courteous to your fellow campers.  Just because you like the sound turned up until you can feel the bass doing CPR on your chest doesn't mean the people around you will appreciate it!  Radios, CD players, and TVs are generally the worst offenders but sometimes people are lax about using noisy power tools around camp too, so think about where you are and what time it is and who or what other activities your use of electronic or electric devices is going to impact. We once had a bunch of teenagers roll into camp about 3:00 am with a stereo blasting at what had to be at least 1000 watts!  Fortunately, to their credit, a polite word with the resolved the problem.

Stay connected!

Water Sports for Campers and RVers

Being in and around water is a good way to stay cool on a hot summer day.  That is one reason many campers and RVers seek out destinations near the ocean, lakes, or streams.  Such locations are often already cooler than surrounding hot, dry areas, but they also usually offer the opportunity for recreational pursuits in the water where you can really cool off while having fun.   Besides that, places with water are usually prettier.

We recently acquired a 24’ sailboat.  I have always had an interest in sailing and had done a little in my younger days.  I was pleasantly surprised to see how much of what I’ve learned about RVs and camping could be applied to our new recreational opportunity.   Many of the storage, equipment, and conservation aspects of RVing translate directly to boating.  However, there are also significant differences you will need to pay attention to if you are a boater.  

Boats and water sports have their own unique safety requirements.  Some are not only logical and meaningful needs, but are also legal requirements.  There is specific safety equipment you must carry on a boat. Not only is for your safety and the safety of your passengers, but for the safety of other boaters. Failing to have it onboard could be disastrous if you encounter a situation where it is needed and can be very inconvenient and quite expensive if you happen to be inspected by law enforcement.  Should you have an accident and not have the legally required equipment you could face significant liability issues.

Personal and equipment safety are the first things that come to my mind.  Every person on a boat should wear a personal flotation device (life jacket).  In almost all jurisdictions it is required by law, especially for children. But it is always a good idea for adults to wear their life jackets at all times when on the water.  You just never know when something might happen and you end up unexpectedly in the drink!  It doesn’t matter how good a swimmer you are, if you are unconscious or injured, you’re going to need all the help you can get.  Life jackets should be of a proper size for each person and the straps should be adjusted so they fit comfortably but correctly so they will keep even an unconscious person’s face out of the water.  Regulations usually require you to have a life jacket on board for every passenger.  Ironically, regulations don't always require those passengers to wear the life jackets all the time but it is prudent to do so.  If, for any reason, you choose not to wear your life jacket, be sure to keep it within reach.   Boats over 16 feet (except kayaks and canoes) are also required to carry at least one throwable flotation device.  An iconic example is a life preserver or life ring, but for convenience there are throwable flotation devices that serve as cockpit cushions until needed.  For man overboard rescues you will also need an appropriate length of floating rope.  You don’t have to be able to swim in order to enjoy boating, but it is certainly a VERY good idea to know how.  Sooner or later you will probably fall or get knocked off your boat or the dock -- or on a hot day you might just feel like jumping in!  And even if YOU don’t someone in your party might and you might need to go into the water to help rescue them.

There are several different categories of boats and boating activities.  The main groups are sail boats and power boats.  Power boats may include ski boats, fishing boats, cruisers, and personal watercraft.  Also, a sailboat under auxiliary power is considered to be a power boat and subject to rules and regulations for power boats. Typical activities are cruising, water skiing, wake boarding, fishing, and racing.  No matter what you chose, you will want to make sure you understand the advantages and disadvantages as well as the rules and regulations for what you want to do.  The type of activities you choose will determine the kind of vessel you need to get, what kinds of personal protective equipment you’ll need, and the type and amount of training you will need.  If you are interested in racing you will need far more training and in some cases licensing than you’ll need for recreational cruising.   In most jurisdictions you will need at least a valid driver’s license to operate a power boat.  Usually there is no license needed for sailboats or manually powered craft, like canoes, row boats, and kayaks.   Personal water craft might include surf boards and paddle boards as well as jet skis and seadoos

Boating has its own set of signals you will need to be aware of.  Boats don’t have turn signals or use hand signals like cars.  Audio signals (horns or whistles) are used to communicate the intentions of boats approaching each other on the water and for warnings.  A single short blast (about 1 second or less) indicates “I want to pass you on the port side”; two short blasts means “I want to pass you on the starboard side”.  A hint for remembering the signals is that "port" has only one syllable; starboard has two.  You indicate your recognition and acceptance of the other boats intentions by repeating the signal.  If you don’t understand or you disagree (for example, you have someone in the water or you are aware of some danger on the intended course), reply with five short blasts.  Longer blasts of around 6 seconds every two minutes are used when there is poor visibility such as fog or going around a blind corner.   Power boats use just the long blast; sailboats use the long blast followed by two short ones.  Large boats with air compressors may have air horns like those on semis.  A portable air horn is a handy way to add signalling capability to any boat.  By the way, unpowered boats (canoes, kayaks, row boats, and sailboats) always have the right of way over power boats.  That makes good sense when you think about it:  power boats are lot more maneuverable and it is easier for them to slow, stop, or change direction than for unpowered boats.  Calling boats without motors ‘unpowered’ is kind of a misnomer.  Each has its own source of power, whether it be human or wind.  By the way, remember a sailboat using an auxiliary motor is considered to be a power boat and must follow the rules for power boats.  

Boats are required to have navigation lights when operated at night:  a red light visible from the port (left) side; a green light visible from the starboard (right) side; and a white light visible from the stern (rear).  You’ve probably observed the same kind of navigation lights on airplanes flying overhead at night.  There are specific rules for the angles and distances at which the lights can be seen so navigation lights must be of an approved design.  Fortunately, these days there are inexpensive battery powered LED navigation lights available in case your boat doesn’t have any and you want to use it at night.  If you are anchored at night you may also be required to have an "anchor light".  A sailboat operating under auxiliary power at night may also need a "mooring light".

Boat wiring is often very similar to RV wiring, sometimes having both 12 volt and 120 volt systems.  Some boats may have 24-volt electrical systems.  Marine-grade wire is different from automotive or residential wire.  Marine wire usually has more (and smaller) strands for a given gauge and each copper strand is tinned to avoid corrosion.  I’ve seen the affect of using other types of wire on boats.  Someone had wired the cabin lights with ordinary zip wire (like flat lamp cord).  I’m sure it worked just fine when they installed it and it was cheap and easy to work with, but a few years later when I got the boat it had to be replaced because all the exposed copper connections were badly corroded.  They literally turned to dust when I touched them!  Marine wire is, of course, more expensive, but in the long run it is well worth it, not only for longevity, but for performance and safety.  Corroded connections can impair performance and could easily start a fire!

Just as with RVs and OHVs, tools and onboard supplies and spare parts are needed to keep everything, well “ship shape”.  What you have onboard needs to be customized to the specific needs of you and your vessel.  What you will need will depend mostly on the type of vessel (sail or power boat) and the equipment on board.  For example, a sailboat will need things like sail repair tape and a hand awl for repairing torn sails.  A power boat will probably need a more compete set of hand tools to be able to tend to the motor and drive system.    Some basic electrical tools and supplies will be applicable in most applications (other than canoes and kayaks), but you may need more extensive coverage if your boat is equipped with a lot of electronic equipment, such as depth finders, fish finders, and radio equipment.  However, the most elaborate and complete set of tools and spare parts won’t do you any good if you don’t know how to use them or how to diagnose problems and make appropriate repairs.  It is well worth spending a little time to become familiar with what can go wrong and what you can do about it.  You may find good advise on Web sites for your particular boat, venue, or style of sailing.  You can also learn a lot from fellow boaters.

Long term boat living doesn’t get as much media attention as full time RVing, but it is a viable option and there are many people who do live on their boats.  Even weekend sailors may stay overnight on their boats from time to time.  Sleeping accommodations on large yachts can be as comfortable as a hotel room, but on smaller craft things are going to be a bit restrictive.  The area under the bow of many cabin cruisers and other boats under 30’ serves as a ‘V-berth’ which is usually the main bed.  Shoulder room here is usually very generous, but your feet will be shoved into the point of the bow.  If you and  your bunk mate aren't already friends, you will be by morning -- or bitter enemies!  Other options include convertible dinettes and bunks under the cockpit.  In many cases, such as the V-berth in particular, the headroom is much like that of a truck camper.   You don’t want to sit up suddenly!  Once you become accustomed to the features of your boat you will be able to thoroughly enjoy it.  A modest sized cabin cruiser or sailboat with a cabin can provide a great deal of creature comfort for a weekend on the water.  The cabin will provide protection from sun, wind, and rain, give you a place to prepare and eat meals, and a comfortable place to sleep.  Sleeping on a boat may take a little getting used to.  Most of us haven’t been rocked to sleep since we were infants, but unless the water is unusually calm, there will be some motion.  The rocking can be very soothing, but for some people it causes sea sickness, whether you are trying to sleep or up and about.  You might want to bring along a little Dramamine to treat sea sickness just in case.  Sanitation on boats can be similar to that in land based RVs, sometimes having residential style fixtures.  On smaller boats you are more likely to find only a portable toilet, but that can be quite adequate for weekend needs.  Just don't count on using the facilities during rough weather.  It can be very uncomfortable and very messy!

Personal Watercraft, like Jet Skis and SeaDoos, are as much fun on the water as dirt bikes and ATVs are on the trails.  They are even ridden in a similar manner, straddling the seat and using handlebars for steering.  Again, I can’t over emphasize the need for appropriate personal protective gear.  Same goes for proper training.  Even though they are similar to dirt bikes, ATVs, and snowmobiles, the will behave differently.  Traction for acceleration, braking, and turning is very different on water than on dirt or sand or even snow.  It is annoying when a fellow rider roosts you out on the trails but the wake from other vessels can be a serious hazard for personal water craft, especially the wake from larger vessels moving at high speeds (like a ski boat or a harbor tour boat).  I was once towing a water skier when he was hit by a large wake from a harbor tour boat and it nearly yanked his arm off when the tip of his ski caught in the wake and flipped him over.

 

And don't forget human-powered craft, like kayaks, canoes, row boats, and paddle boards.   Each of these gives you a way to get out on the water without the need for engines or burning fossil fuel.  Plus they also provide good exercise.  Sail boards are a kind of cross over between surf boards and sail boats.   They offer an interesting and exciting challenge to sail standing up on the board.

Inflatable rafts and even ordinary car and truck inner tubes can be fun and are often used to float down rivers.  Avoid "white water" routes until you have plenty of experience are certain of your skills.

Any kind of water based recreation is likely to offer opportunities for cooling down that you won’t get with land based vehicles.  You can usually avail yourself of some kind of access to spray or even submersion to cool down as needed where on land cooling water sources are likely to be few and far between.  However, it also comes with increased potential for sunburn from the rays reflected off the water so you may need to shield yourself from reflections as well as direct sunlight.  You may also need to apply sunblock more frequently, even if you use “waterproof” products.   Sunglasses with good UV rating are a must, not just for comfort and fashion but also to protect your eyes against UV radiation that can literally be blinding.   We all know not to look directly at the Sun, but looking at the reflection on water can be almost as bad.  Because the reflection is so bright you will probably avoid looking at it, but many people tend to ignore the reflected rays until they are already sun burned by them well beyond the comfort level.

Boats don’t leave tracks the way land-based motorized recreation does, but there are still environmental considerations you need to be aware of.  You should never pollute the water.  Avoid spilling fuel or oil, keep your trash in your boat, do not dump trash or sanitary waste into the water.  In some locations that serve as reservoirs for community water supplies, you might find you are not even allowed to put any part of your body in the water.  Boats can be a danger to aquatic life,  You need to watch out for and take action to avoid hitting water fowl and other aquatic animals.  After all, they were here before we were!  There may be areas where boating is restricted or prohibited to protect wildlife; watch for warning signs and buoys.  There will always be speed restrictions near boat ramps, docks and other moorage areas, designated swimming areas and near dams and bridges.  

As we began our journey to become sailors I found many good resources on the Internet.  You will likely find several youtube videos about the kinds of boats, places to go, and types of outings that interest you.  One of the very best resources I have found for sailboaters is stingysailor.com — and its free!  The author gives very practical advice based on real life situations.  Another good, although a little more pricey, resource is practical sailor.com.

You don't have to have a boat to enjoy the cooling sensations of water sports.  Swimming or even wading is a good way to cool off on a hot day AND get some good quality exercise.  Sometimes just being near a lake or stream provides a cooler environment.  Lacking a swimming pool or natural swimming hole, you might fill up a kiddie pool to cool off in.  Or just turn on the sprinklers and run through them like a kid!  When camping you might substitute "Super Soaker" squirt guns for sprinklers.  If you just need a little cooling while relaxing in the shade, try giving yourself a spritz or two from a spray bottle.

Perhaps not really a sport, but misting systems can add a lot of comfort to a camp site on a hot day.  You can add mist systems to your RV awning or camp canopy.  You just need a water source.  If you are staying in a campground with an available spicket, all you may need to do is hook them up to the faucet.  Make sure you aren't hogging a public faucet that others may need.  When dry camping you might be able to add a connection to your RV water system to power your misters.  To avoid burning up the pump or using up all the fresh water in my motorhome I added a second water tank and pump just to run the misters.  If you've ever enjoyed the cooling mist in long lines at some hot weather amusement parks you know how pleasant and refreshing a mist system can be.  For a more affordable and portable option, use spray bottles to spritz yourself or your companions.

Let’s get wet!

Porta-pottys For RVers, Campers and Boaters

Normally we tend to avoid discussions of personal sanitation in polite company, but it can be a vital subject for campers, boaters, and RVers.  For self contained RVs or campers in developed campgrounds, it is pretty well covered by standard on board features or facilities provided at the campground.  But for remote camping, especially if you are not in a self-contained RV, or when on a small boat or tent camping you may need alternatives.  Tent campers and backpackers are probably already familiar with how to dig and use latrines in the wilderness so we won't go over that here.  Instead here we will focus on portable toilets known as porta-pottys that can add a great deal of comfort and convenience to your camping experience. in small RVs and boats.  In fact, you might say porta-pottys try to give you the same kind of comfort you are used to at home.  They are especially appreciated by the females in your party.  However, the limited amount of water and limited holding tank capacity means you must exercise good rules of conservation to avoid over-filling them during a weekend outing.  For longer stays you will need someplace to dump them every few days.

A Porta-potty is a handy addition for tent camping and boats and RVs that are not self-contained. They can also be useful if your RV toilet is broken or your holding tank is full.  We have used a porta-potty in our Class A motorhome a few times when we wanted to avoid contaminating clean holding tanks during short uses.  When I talk about porta-pottys I'm not talking about those big, smelly portable toilets you see at outdoor concerts and sporting events, although they are sometimes called that..  There are small individual portable toilets (Porta-pottys) made especially for camping.  Porta-pottys will be particularly appreciated by the ladies in your group.  They can be used inside a tent or you might set up a shower enclosure somewhere away from your tent to provide privacy.  They vary in size but are typically about 18” square and a little shorter for comfort so they take up little room in your vehicle.  They are designed to be self contained, having a built in water tank for flushing and a holding tank to capture the waste for subsequent disposal.  They typically hold several gallons of fresh water and/or sewage.  Since water weights 8 lbs per gallon, they can often weigh 40 lbs or so.  They can usually be separated so you can carry the portion with the fresh water tank independently from the sewage tank, with each piece a bit easier to handle than the combined unit.

You will need to monitor the level of waste and empty it long before it gets completely full.  In fact, you will probably want to empty it when it gets about half full so it won’t be so heavy to carry or to lift to empty. They can be emptied into an RV dump station or carefully emptied into a flush toilet.   You may encounter restrictions against dumping them in some vault toilets in remote campgrounds.  A word of caution:  be careful how you carry the holding tank of your porta-potty.  The flush handle can get caught on something and release the foul contents prematurely.  If that "something" happens to be your leg you'll have a soaked pant leg and a shoe full of sewage.  Keeping the flush valve on the outside avoids this problem, but you still need to be careful to avoid getting it caught on other obstacles or you'll have a nasty mess to clean up!

 

You need to use the same kind of chemicals in a porta-potty that you use in RV black water tanks, but because of the small size, you won’t need nearly as much per dose.  Be sure to check the directions on the box, pouch, or bottle to make sure you are using the right amount.  If you use too little,  it won’t work well.  You’ll likely have excess odors and the solids won’t break down.  If you use too much you’re just wasting product — and money.  Higher doses don’t work any better than proper doses and, in some cases, may actually interfere with the intended action.  However, you may need to use more during hot weather.  Most modern chemicals are reasonably environmentally friendly and shouldn’t harm septic systems.  If you will be dumping yours into a septic system (or the vault toilets in a campground) try to use chemicals that say they are OK for septic systems.  Some of the older chemical formulas included formaldehyde, which was definitely not environmentally nor septic friendly, but it worked very well.

Chemicals are available in liquid and powdered form.  The powdered stuff may be in a foil pouch or configured as a drop in packet a little larger than a golf ball.  The liquid is probably the easiest to measure if you need to used less than a full bottle per dose.   You can probably measure out powdered chemicals as well, but if you use drop in packets about all you can do is control the number of packets you use.  The chemicals are intended to serve two functions:  odor control and liquification of solid wastes including toilet paper, which is one reason you should only use RV friendly toilet paper in porta-pottys and RV toilets.  Want to now if your toilet paper is OK to use?  Put a couple of sheets in a quart jar of water and shake it up.  It if disintegrates quickly as you shake it, it is OK to use.  If it doesn’t it probably won’t break down in your toilet or holding tank.  Try doing the test with a facial tissue and you’ll see the way “bad” toilet paper will fail the test.  Hint:  don't put facial tissues in your RV toilet or porta-potty!  For that matter, don't even use that super nice quilted toilet paper you use at home.  Single ply tissue is best for use in portable and RV toilets.

Porta-pottys are self contained.  They have a fresh water supply tank with a bellows type pump to dispense water into the bowl.  The waste is collected in a separate bottom holding tank.  The two tanks can be separated.  You can carry just the top to a campground faucet to fill or just the bottom to a dump station or toilet to empty it so it isn’t so heavy.  Remember, water weighs 8 lbs per gallon.  A typical porta-potty can easily contain 5 gallons between the two tanks, making  it around 40 lbs when full plus weight of the unit itself.  When carrying the waste tank, be sure to hold it so the bottom of the tank, not the part with the flush valve, is next to your leg.  This will avoid any dripping any left-over liquid from on top of the valve onto you or your clothing.  It also keeps the valve away from your leg  If it is toward your leg you run the risk of bumping it and perhaps releasing a flood of foul waste onto your foot!  Believe me, it will make a big mess and you don’t want a shoe full of sewage!

 

You may need more than one porta-potty, depending on the size of your group, the length of your stay, and the room you have to transport them.  My wife and I have found one unit sufficient for the two of us for a weekend on our boat or tent camping.  It would have never been enough when we were camping with our six kids, even if we sent the 4 boys out into the bush most of the time!  Since porta-pottys are somewhat bulky you may find it hard to carry them in small car trunks but they fit well in the beds of pickup trucks and in the cargo area in most SUVs.

Porta-pottys are a convenient and inexpensive solution to sanitation when camping, RVing, or boating and can provide a temporary solution at home during emergencies when the plumbing may be compromised.  They can usually be emptied into any functioning ordinary toilet or can be dumped at RV dump stations.  Always rinse the used holding tank thoroughly and add appropriate chemicals after each outing, or every few days as it fills up.  To minimize your chances of running out of water, always refill the fresh water tank when you dump the holding tank.  To reduce the weight you have to carry, dump it often and separate the fresh water holding tank from the waste holding tank for transport.

Now, that’s a relief!

Find Hidden Storage in Your RV, Camper, or Boat

No matter how big or luxurious your RV, Camper, or boat is, you may still need more storage.  There always seems to be more stuff than there are places to put it.   If you have large items, your only option may be to add a roof pod or hitch-mounted trunk -- or get a trailer to haul it.  You may be able to find "hidden" spaces within your RV for smaller items.  Getting extra space on a boat will require even more creative solutions.

Many RVs and boats have small cavities under or behind existing features.  You have probably already discovered and made use of the space under the dinette cushions or under the sofa or the bed.  But sometimes there are other, less obvious places you might make use of.  I once found a large amount of wasted space under the night stand in one of my RVs.  Why they didn't put a door on it and make it into a cabinet in the first place is beyond me.  I utilized it in a rather unique way.  I wanted a place to carry an air compressor strong enough to handle the big RV tires.  The wasted space I found was big enough to accommodate a 3-gallon "pancake" compressor.  I was able to remove the counter top for the night stand and install the compressor in the space below and made the counter top easily removable so I didn't even have to do any finish carpentry to add a cabinet door.  Sometimes you can find extra space in the bilge of a boat, but exercise caution because the bilge often accumulates water if there are any leaks anywhere.  Some boats have extra space behind backrests or below the seats on salon settees or between or behind cabinets or other compartments.  Always exercise caution when modifying cabinets to be sure your modifications don't compromise structural integrity.

In most of our RVs I've found it convenient to store my "inside" tool box on the floor behind one of the lounge chairs next to the entry door where it is out of the way and easy to access.  I screwed a piece or two of angel iron to the floor to keep the tool box from sliding around during travel.  I mounted one of those self-contained LED light switches on the wall above it to compensate for the shadow the chair makes from the overhead lights.   The tool box is out of the way, mostly out of sight, yet easily accessible from the entry door,  The light also provides quick and easy illumination for entering the RV after dark that is more convenient than the original 12 volt light switches.  It is even more important to secure items in a boat as they are subject to a lot more pitching and rolling than RVs.

Some out-of-the-way spots will only be good for storing items you don't need to get to often, but they can give you a way of bringing along some extra things and free up more accessible space for things you need to get to.  Look for space behind drawers that are shorter than the cabinets that house them or for places where the builders may have "squared off" an area for convenience or cosmetic purposes that might have some hidden space inside, like over fender wells.  The odd shapes created by the shape of the original van body on some Class B’s or in the fiberglass front or rear caps of Class A’s sometimes contain cavities you can re-purpose for extra storage.   I found nearly a foot of open space between the back interior wall and the rear cap on a class A motorhome.  Getting access wasn't easy but it did provide space to install things like cup holders in the window sill and 12 volt outlets in the shelf under the rear window and above the space.   I also found space to install an extra outdoor outlet on the rear to provide convenient power to my enclosed motorcycle trailer in camp.  The curvature of the hull often creates unusual voids on many boats and you can often find space to store small items there if you can gain appropriate access.  Make sure your alternations don’t nullify insulating qualities, modify wiring or plumbing, or interfere with ventilation or create a new path for drafts.

 

Sometimes the same off-the-shelf cabinets are used in multiple models in an RV line up.   That often results in some unused space around the standard components which you might be able to creatively access for additional storage.

Another way of getting extra storage is to make better use of the space you already have.  I often find the addition of an extra shelf or two inside large cabinets allows me to make much better use of the space and makes using items in those cabinets a lot easier.  Trays or boxes are another good way to have better access to stuff in cabinets and closets.

My wife came up with an ingenious way of carrying files and other paperwork we sometimes need access to without giving up any precious cabinet space.  She slips the file folders behind the backrests on the dinette.  That won't work if you have extremely thick files, but for mail to be sorted, bills to pay, travel/tax receipts, etc, the thin folders fit nicely.  They are safe and easy to get to when needed without sacrificing any standard storage space. Putting them in Ziploc bags also helps keep them together and protects them from spills and humidity.  This technique can be easily used in RVs, campers, trailers, and boats.

Another idea I have to credit to my wife is a handy place to store the log lighter we use to light the burners on the range in the galley.  The microwave above the stove sticks out a half an inch or so from the cabinet face.  She put the lighter on that little lip and secured it with a Velcro tab so it doesn’t fall off when traveling.  Not only does it save valuable space in the kitchen drawers, it is in a really convenient place when we need it.

While I’m crediting her for her excellent ideas. let me share one more:  store baked goods (bread, rolls, donuts etc) in the microwave or oven while traveling.  Let the oven cool after using before putting baked goods in or it will promote the bread to dry out and/or mold faster.  Storing it in the microwave makes it easily accessible when needed and the light weight isn’t harmful to the microwave.  If your RV is equipped with a gas oven it too could be used to store similar items.  I would avoid putting things like potato chips in the oven.  Many ovens have a pilot light that could ignite the packaging.

I picked up a handy tip from the “Quick Tips” feature in Motorhome Magazine for storing shoes near the entry door.  There are usually a few inches between the back of the dinette and the pit for the entry stairwell.  Using brackets for a towel rack I fastened a rod across the bottom of the dinette a few inches from the floor that lets us slide the toes of our shoes behind it.  Since the dinette is upholstered in cloth, I put a piece of FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) like is used for waterproof kitchen and bathroom walls to protect the fabric.  This turned otherwise unused space into convenient shoe storage and helped us avoid tracking dirt into our RV.

The pickup truck we often tow our enclosed motorcycle trailer with has a place under the hood for a second battery (usually used to supply power for a camper).   Since we don't have camper on it at this time, it makes a convenient place to carry extra bottles of oil, antifreeze, and/or windshield washer solvent.

 

You can hang shoe storage systems on the back of closet and bathroom doors.  The shoe-sized pockets are about the right size to corral hair brushes, bottles of shampoo and conditioner, liquid soap, toothpaste, extra toilet paper, etc.   Just make sure you can still close the doors and that the stored items don't intrude into the often limited space in RV bathrooms and closets!  Also monitor the weight as you add things to the pockets so you don't tweak the door.

Some RVs, like travel trailers, often have wide rear bumpers that can be used for storing items that don't need to be kept inside.  Rear bumpers are especially good places for carrying gas cans or camp stove fuel cans that should NOT be carried in the living space.  I've also seen this space used for toolboxes.  You will want to make sure the tool boxes are waterproof and securely locked to prevent theft.

One bit of caution:  when seeking out unused spaces in an RV  or boat NEVER attempt to alter or store things in the compartments for the furnace, water heater, refrigerator, or even the converter or inverter even there is a lot of presumably wasted space.   Doing so may create a fire hazard or, at the very least, modify the ventilation for the appliance which could affect performance and longevity as well as risking a fire. 

You will be surprised how much extra storage space you can drum up with a little creativity.

Tuck it away!

Refinishing Formica RV, Camper, and Boat Tables and Countertops

Many RVs, especially older ones, have Formica tables and countertops.  While there is some appeal to upgrading to more modern and luxurious materials, such as granite or composite solid surface, these are usually cost prohibitive for the average RVer.   Exotic materials like granite or even ceramic tile may also add a lot of unwanted and unnecessary weight.  The added cost will almost never increase the trade-in or resale value.  If you plan to keep your RV a long time the pleasure you get from using them might be worth the investment, but you might also enjoy less expensive alternatives too.

If you have faded Formica, you may have gotten discouraged looking for solutions to restore the color and shine on the Internet.  Mostly what I found in my initial search was that it could not be restored, but had to be sanded and painted or the faded Formica ripped off and replaced.  Some folks recommended various waxes and furniture polishes, but in my own attempts, none of them worked.  A good aerosol furniture polish made it look good while it was wet, which was encouraging, but as soon as it dried (in minutes)  it was back to its old dull, faded color.  Not an acceptable solution.

Then my wife suggested trying the SC-1 detail spray we use on our dirt bikes.  And wa-la! Instant success!  We had a badly faded walnut grain Formica table in our nearly 50 year old sailboat.  I thought I was going to have to paint it or get a new one.  But the SC-1 brought it back to like new condition with just a single application!  So far it has lasted 5 years and still looks good!

A second trick for restoring old table tops is to replace missing or damaged edge trim.  It is easier than you might think.  The edge trim was long gone from our boat table, exposing the rough edge of the plywood it was made of.  I bought some iron-on walnut edge tape at my local home center, sanded the old edge, and ironed on the tape,  trimmed it with a razor knife, then sealed it with a good clear coat and now instead of ugly old exposed plywood the edge is a nicely finished walnut that matches the restored Formica table top.  You can also get iron on edge tape in the form of white Melmac for edging shelves.  I didn't want to take any chances ruining my wife's good iron so I picked up a used one at a thrift store for a couple of bucks.  You can probably get away with using your regular household iron if you are careful with it.  Use a thin cloth like a dish towel between the iron and the tape.

Of course, if you want or need to change the color of a table or countertop or if the surface has been physically damaged by scraping or badly stained beyond redemption, you can still paint.  Sand the old surface to remove any contaminants and smooth out imperfections, fill any holes, then clean it with rubbing alcohol or acetone, the paint according to the paint manufacturer's instructions.  A gloss paint will be shinier and easier to clean but a semi-gloss will hide imperfections better and still look good.  Satin or matt finishes should be avoided as they will be more susceptible to dirt and stains and harder to clean.

Replacing Formica provides a new countertop that should last many years.  It usually requires removing the old Formica, properly preparing the surface, and gluing on new formica.  Getting really tight seams and corners requires a bit of practice and expertise so you might want to have this done by a professional for best results.  Sometimes you can apply new Formica over old but it is more common to remove the old, worn out material.  For a more temporary solution you might get away with installing self-adhesive vinyl tile over the old Formica.  The vinyl tiles are fairly easy to cut to fit and the self-adhesive style avoids the tedious task of applying adhesive.  You might even get some short-term satisfaction covering old, ugly Formica with Contact paper but it probably won't be very durable or last very long.

Another option for RV tables is to simply replace them.  Most of them are removable and can be easily replaced by a new table, available at most RV stores.  Or you could custom design and make your own if you have the DIY skills and tools to do so.  Butcher block cutting boards can sometimes be found in a size to match smaller tables, like the ones in front of an RV sofa.  Some tables  have interesting or even useful designs like road maps.  Replacement tables can be had for $30-$100 and you can even order them custom made to your specifications.  Custom made tables can run into the hundreds of dollars, depending on size, material, and features you specify.  Brand new, ready made tables can be purchased at RV stores, usually for less than $50.  I have always admired ones that had a good U.S. map image on them.

There is no need to live with ugly tables or countertops.  With a little creative effort they can be restored to give new life to your RV, camper, or boat.

Happy restoring!