Winter Camping At Home -- Say What?

In most of the colder parts of the country, winter means storing our RVs and camping gear and holing up in front of  a cozy fireplace until the warm weather returns.  Those in the sunbelt can continue to enjoy outdoor pursuits.  When we lived in southern California even New Years Day was an opportunity for RVing and dirt biking in the Mojave Desert.  Not likely that is going to happen here in Utah!  So why the heck would anyone what to do any winter camping at home?

One big advantage to winter camping at home is you don't have far to go to recover if anything goes wrong.  Just as we've often suggested driveway or backyard "outings" as a way to develop your skills and get used to your equipment, you can use them for winter preparations as well.  If you should run into trouble, like say running out of propane, you can just go back inside to keep warm whereas, if you had a problem in a remote location you might not have any convenient way of handling the issue(s) and may experience a considerable amount of discomfort  -- or even get sick or die -- before you could recover.  Winter camping at home is a good way to make sure you are prepared before you try any remote winter camping.

If you have an RV you store at home during the winter you might consider spending a night or two in it just for fun, to maintain your familiarity with systems and supplies, and to keep your equipment in peak operating condition.  We did that in our truck camper when the onset of winter sneaked up on us before we could take it out for a shakedown cruise.  If you're in freezing weather you won't want to use any of the water or sewer systems, but you can still test out the furnace and determine if the bedding is adequate for cold nights.  And you could cook and eat in the RV.  Just be sure to take all the dishes back into the house to wash them.  Using your RV systems periodically while in storage is actually good for them.  Run the generator for an hour so two.  Disuse is one of the hardest things on equipment.

Our motorhome and camper have both served as extra guest rooms when we've had family visiting at Christmas on a number of occasions.  We had to educate our guests that there was no water and to not use the toilet, but otherwise they were quite warm and comfortable and enjoyed more privacy than they might have had crammed inside the house with other guests.  The grandkids especially liked staying in an RV.  If you live in the sunbelt where winterization isn't necessary, using the RV is even more convenient since they can use the water based systems.  You may be able to use the water based systems if your RVs are properly prepared for it and you exercise proper procedures.  You may need holding tank heaters to keep fresh and waste water tanks and lines from freezing.

Winter opportunities for tent campers are more limited but still possible.  You may have to set up your tent in the snow, but even that can be surprisingly comfortable if you are prepared for it.  If that doesn't appeal to you and your family you might resort to setting up your tent in the garage or an outbuilding.  I've noticed that the temperature inside my garage is typically in the mid 40s even when the outside temperature is in the teens.  I've read that even just having a roof over your head can raise the temperature 20°F, which is often enough to prevent freezing of RV water lines etc.  A barn, shed, or greenhouse could also provide a temperate location for setting up a winter tent.  One of our kids and her family set up a tent in our barn during a Christmas visit in Utah a few years ago.

I've even seen folks set up dome tents in their family rooms and living rooms for the kids for a fun night or two and there is no reason that couldn't be done by kids of ALL ages.  You'll need a self standing tent, not one that needs stakes and guy ropes.  If don't have a self-standing tent you might get by setting up a 2x4 frame around your tent to fasten loops and guy lines to since you can't drive stakes into your floor.

Practicing your winter camping skills could turn out be more than just a fun diversion.  If you should experience a long term power outage during the winter, being able to  move into your RV or set up your tent in your living room might be your best way to survive.  The threat of long term power outages grows stronger every day.  Not only are we now facing possible outages from a strong EMP from solar activity, the terrorist organization ISIS is reportedly actively planning ways to disable the US power grid.  Many people aren't aware of just how vulnerable the power grid is nor how long it would take to replace damaged transformers and restore power.  It would likely be years!  Recent estimates I've read say that disabling as few as 9 key substations would disable the entire US power grid for a year and a half.

Practicing your campfire skills can also be fun in winter.   Gathering around a blazing fire is a good way to ward off the chill of winter activities.  Just having a campfire in your snowy backyard can be fun.  Campfires may also become critical for cooking and hygiene during an extended emergency so it is good practice to try it out before you need it in an emergency.

Be cool and keep warm!

Blowouts!

While a "blowout" sale is usually a good thing, having a tire blow out on your RV, OHV, or tow vehicle certainly is not.  Blowouts can cause serious damage as pieces of the fragmented tire slam into parts of the vehicle or friction heats things up and causes a fire.  I've had motorhome and trailer tires blow out a few times, and it is never a pleasant or inexpensive proposition.  After a tire blew out on my enclosed motorcycle trailer I discovered it was likely caused by a failed magnet in the electric brakes that had locked up the brakes and made the tire drag.  In addition to the tire itself, it destroyed the wheel and the fender skirt and the collapse of the tire allowed the entry step to hit the ground and get bent way beyond repair.  Same with the pricey electric tongue jack.  The leaf spring on that side was also damaged.  I had to replace both springs and both brakes (springs and brakes should always be replaced in pairs).  I was unable to find a matching fender skirt so I had to replace the skirts on both sides to maintain a consistent appearance.  By the time all was said and done the total bill came to about $1200 from a single blowout.  A tire failure on an OHV can create handling problems sever enough to cause you to loose control.

I had a nearly new right front tire blow out on a class A motorhome on one trip.   I discovered the cause of the failure was a new valve extension installed by the tire shop.  The technician there had claimed the braided stainless steel extensions I had been using were prone to failure and talked me into installing solid semi-truck style extensions.  Unfortunately, the new extension he installed rubbed against the wheel cover until it wore a hole in it and allowed all the air to leak out of the tire.  The flapping of the exploded tire ripped out all the wiring for the lights (headlight, park light, and turn signal) and destroyed the outside cabinet behind the wheel well.  We gathered up the scattered contents of the shattered cabinet and avoided driving after dark until I could re-wire the lights.  Then I had to rebuild the cabinet when I got home.

The loss of a left rear inside dual on a 40' diesel pusher managed to damage the primary plumbing near the water pump adjacent to the wheel well.  All my fresh water leaked out and I couldn't even use park hook ups until I was able to repair the broken pipe.  I never did figure out what caused that particular tire failure.  The tire had been in good condition at the start of the trip and I religiously check tire pressure every morning before hitting the road.  I suspect it may have been damaged by some kind of debris on the road.  You never know when you'll pick up a stray nail somewhere.    BTW, straight nails seldom cause problems but bent ones frequently penetrate tires.

Way too many blowouts are simply a result of under inflation.  A soft tire will quickly overheat and together with the stress of excessive flexing of the sidewalls will soon fail under highway conditions.  Under inflation can usually be avoided by simply checking tire pressure regularly.  Under inflated tires will usually look "squishy" and will be hotter than properly inflated tires after driving.  They will also wear excessively on the outside edges.  Under inflated tires may show excessive wear on both edges of the tire.  Whenever you discover an under inflated tire, bring it up to the correct pressure as soon as possible.  However, driving on an under inflated tire will sometimes have already caused enough internal damage that the tire has been weakened and will fail prematurely.  The best way to ensure proper inflation is to check tire pressure with an accurate gauge.  Truckers and some RVers will use a "tire thumper" as a way to quickly see if tire pressure is approximately where it should be.  Soft tires will give off a dull thump instead of a sharp thud and an experienced driver can usually feel as well as hear the difference when the thumper strikes the tire. 

Over inflation isn't good either, but it usually doesn't cause the rapid and catastrophic failures associated with under inflation.   Over inflated tires will cause handling and ride problems, making the vehicle feel skittish and the ride harsh.  Over inflated tires will show excessive wear in the center of the tread.  Driving on overinflated tires too long could cause the tread in the center to wear enough to cause a blowout.

Proper inflation also contributes to better gas mileage and good handling.  Under-inflated tires have more rolling resistance and will make handling soft and mushy.  Over-inflation will reduce traction and make a vehicle feel "squirrely".

Overloading is another common cause of tire failures.  Some large motorhomes are very close to the maximum chassis and/or tire rating as they come from the factory so it is all too easy to over load them with passengers and equipment.  If you suspect your vehicle is overloaded, take it to a truck scale and weight each individual wheel. Knowing the weight on each wheel will allow you to set the right tire pressure for the load.

Dragging trailers brakes can also cause tire failures.  If trailer tires get unusually hot when towing the brakes may be dragging and should be inspected and adjusted.  Sometimes the problem is that the brake controller in the tow vehicle is maladjusted and that isn't really an equipment failure, it is an operator error.

Failed suspension components can put inappropriate stress on tires.  Weak or broken springs and/or shocks can stress tires and sometimes either rub directly on the tire or allow it to rub on other parts of the fame or body.  If a vehicle sags more on one corner than the others or if a wheel seems to be leaning or the body appears to be lower than it should be you should have the suspension checked.  Worn, bent, or broken suspension can not only cause tire failures but could cause a loss of control that may result in a serious accident.

A blowout on a motorhome is usually very apparent the instant it happens but drivers of tow vehicles are not always immediately aware of tire failures on trailers.   A few years ago an older couple pulling a travel trailer through Idaho and Washington failed to notice a flat tire on the trailer.  Flaming debris from the dragging tire ignited several wildfires along their route.  How can a driver not notice a flat tire?  A flat on the vehicle you are driving is usually pretty obvious, but one on a trailer can be well disguised, especially if the trailer is relatively small compared to the weight and power of the tow vehicle.  The driver of a 40' motorhome pulling a little 15' utility trailer probably won't feel anything if a trailer tire blows out.  However, he should be able to see the trailer leaning when he checks his rear view mirrors or back up camera and you may see smoke, dust, or sparks from dragging components.  You should frequently monitor the attitude of your trailer when towing. 

If you do experience a blowout, DON'T jam on the brakes!   Keep a strong grip on the steering wheel and slowing gradually,  pull over out of traffic, allowing the vehicle to slow, using the brakes as little as possible.  Jamming on the brakes can cause a sudden grabbing of the damaged tire and wheel, resulting in an unexpected change of direction and/or loss of control. If you lose a front tire you may be able to slow down using the hand or emergency brake which usually activates the rear brakes or a special brake on the drive shaft on some vehicles.

Blowouts on OHVs are perhaps a little less frequent than on highway vehicles, but they can still happen.  Most of the OHV blowouts I've seen have been due to a sudden impact with a hard obstacle.  Normal OHV operation usually doesn't generate the kind of heat that highway driving does and heat is often a significant factor in highway blowouts.  But, if you like to jump your dirt bike or ATV, figure one of these days you will come down hard enough to pop a tire.  An a dirt bike that usually means limping back to camp on a flat tire.  For ATVs and UTVs often means either removing the damaged wheel(s) and taking them back to camp or bringing replacements out before you can reasonably move the vehicle.  So, if you're doing any serious jumping, prepare yourself for the time when you blow out a tire upon landing.  There isn't much you can do except try to control the little beast and get it safely stopped as soon as possible.  Driving on a blown tire may damage fenders and suspension as the tire comes apart from the pounding.

Smooth motoring!

Dealing With Flooded Camp Sites

Noah had advance warning and considerable time to prepare for The Flood.  Also some expert advice!  When we're camping, we usually don't get much advance warning.  In fact, if we knew bad weather was coming we probably wouldn't be camping in the first place. While completely avoiding situations where your camp site might get flooded is certainly the best approach, there may be times when you get caught in flood waters in spite of your best efforts.  Flash floods can hit from rain many miles away.

If you select your camp sites properly, you shouldn't have any problems with flooding.  But sometimes your options are limited.  Given a choice, set up camp (tent or RV) on a slight rise so that any water that may arrive doesn't flow under your RV or into your tent.  Never set up camp in a dry wash or a deep depression if there is any chance of rain.  Even if the rain is many miles away, flood waters may rush down dry washes with surprising force and speed.  Always avoid RV camping or parking on marshy ground where vehicles can sink in.  If the ground is already soft, a sudden rain can nearly liquify it, allowing tires and leveling jacks to sink deep into the mud and making it very difficult or perhaps even impossible to drive out  Getting towed out of a situation like that can be very expensive.  I've even seen would-be rescuers get stuck and have to towed out, greatly multiplying the frustration, delay, and expense.  In some places even extremely hard ground can get surprisingly soft when it rains.  I've seen places where rocks that were so gripped by the hard dirt around them when dry that a pick broke trying to dig them out, but the same rocks sank out of sight when stepped on after a moderate rain!  Marshy ground isn't a good place to set up your tent either.  Pegs are likely to pull loose and you will probably get a lot of water wicking up through the floor unless you have a really good ground cloth. 

I got surprised by flooding during one desert camp out.  We were on solid, gravely ground that was fairly level and we were in a frequently used parking area, not in a depression, sand wash or dry creek bed.  And, we were in the desert!  Even so, heavy rains one evening delivered water rushing down off the nearby hills and under and around our RV, bringing with it enough silt that our grass patio mat had disappeared -- it was completely buried under about an inch of mud the next morning.   Basically the entire parking area was in the path of runoff from not too distant hills, turning it into a broad, shallow river.  Further analysis showed the only way to have avoided the problem would have been to camp somewhere else entirely (i.e, totally different venue).  There was little we could do except do our best to avoid tracking mud into the motorhome, usually by leaving muddy shoes outside or just inside the door and wait for the sun to dry things out.  When we packed up at the end of the outing we shook as much mud and dirt off the grass mat as we could, then folded it up and stuffed in the back or our motorcycle trailer.  At home we hung in on a corral fence and used a power washer to restore it to usable condition.  We left it hanging on the fence and by the next day it was try enough to roll up and store back in its proper cabinet on the motorhome, clean and dry and ready to use again.

If you do get flooded out, sometimes your best bet it to just sit tight until the water recedes and the ground dries out enough for you to drive out.  Hopefully you won't be in water deep enough that it gets inside your RV, although that is a possibility if you are in a low enough spot and/or there is enough rain.  Attempting to exit over soft or flooded ground is likely to result in getting your vehicles thoroughly stuck.  If you must leave before things dry out, it is a good idea to walk the route you plan to take to see if there are any soft spots or unexpected obsctacles, or drop offs.  Driving through flood waters isn't a good idea.  You can't see obstacles and are likely to find yourself and your vehicle in a worse situation than you started. Flood waters often bring boulders and other debris than wasn't there when you drove in, possibly creating severe hazards to driving out.   Driving through water can also get the brakes wet and you will have significantly reduced stopping power.  Wet surfaces have 50% or less friction than dry ones.

Dealing with a flooded camp site in a tent can be lot more devastating.   Had we been camping in tents instead of RVs when the above mentioned incident happened, it would have been our tents and sleeping bags instead of a grass mat that were buried in mud!  It is CRITICAL that tents be set up on high enough ground so they won't ever be in the path of rising water.  Finding "high ground" when camping in the desert can be difficult and options will be very limited when staying in developed campgrounds with assigned spaces.  Hopefully, developed campgrounds will have been properly engineered to drain properly without flooding the pads intended for tents.  In dispersed camping areas, try to find the highest spot you can, especially if there is any chance of rain.

Stay dry!

Covering Your RV

 

Unfortunately there is an off season for most recreational vehicles.  That means storing them, usually for several months at time between seasons.  All recreational vehicles (motorhomes, trailers, campers, boats, etc) need protection from sun and weather while in storage.  Leaving them unprotected invites premature fading, leaks, and corrosion.

Covering your RV to protect it from the elements is basically a good idea -- if its done right.  One of the best ways to protect an RV from summer sun and winter precipitation is to put it in a garage or under an RV "carport".  Next best is to use an RV cover made especially for the purpose.  Because RV covers are more expensive than blue polytarps, people will often opt to cover their RVs with tarps with some very unpleasant and unwanted consequences.  RV covers are made of a soft fabric that won't damage the moldings and finish on the RV.  Tarps have a rougher weave that over a single winter can polish the paint right off corner moldings and sometimes the sides of the RV itself.  RV covers are NOT waterproof.  They are water resistant and breathable.  While they protect the surface from the direct effects of precipitation, being breathable prevents them from trapping moisture inside the cover the way tarps can where it can eventually condense, causing surface damage and even saturating the walls and causing delamination.

RV Covers are available in standard sizes to fit most RVs.  That is the most economical way to go.  For added convenience, purchase a cover that is custom made for you RV.  It can be made with a zipper door that coincides exactly with your entry door for convenience in accessing the interior while it is in storage.  I found that the zipper on my off-the-shelf cover for my 36' Holiday Rambler motorhome was already in exactly the right place.

It is good to shade your RV during summer months to prevent sun damage and minimize heat buildup inside.  It protects the exterior finish and prevents sun damage to drapes and upholstery inside. Also use tire covers to protect the rubber from exposure that will speed deteriorization.  It is OK to shade your RV with a polytarp, just don't wrap it around the entire vehicle.  Hang it on a frame over the RV or use it to cover the roof only.  Avoid letting it come in contact with edges and corners where it can damage the surface.  Well placed plastic tubs can hold the tarp up off air conditioners and other accessories installed on the roof.

RVs usually need protection from precipitation (rain/snow) during winter months.  As mentioned above, the best protection is inside or under some kind of sturdy structure that will protect it from sun and from snow loads.  If that isn't feasible for you, invest in an RV cover.  Custom covers will fit best but are a bit pricey.  You can usually find a generic cover sized to closely fit most RVs.  RV covers are made from a soft,  breathable material that will not damage RV surfaces.   Custom covers usually have a zipper door to give you easy access to the entry door during storage.  Off the shelf covers probably won't have a zipper door or it may not be where you need it.  Covers should have straps to secure them under the RV or grommets where you can attach bungee cords or ropes to tie them down.  If you don't have to worry about freezing weather, an easy trick for holding down a cover is to tie it to one gallon plastic bleach or milk jugs that have been filled with water.  Since water weighs 8 lbs per gallon, each jug anchors its anchor point with 8 lbs of force.   Use several jugs all around to keep the cover from blowing off.  If you have to deal with freezing weather, secure the bottom of the cover to the bottom of the RV or to stakes driven into the ground.   In freezing weather, water filled jugs might split and as soon as it warms up all the water would leak out and there wouldn't be anything hold the cover down.  You might use inverted plastic bins spaced on top of the RV to create a uniform height and keep the cover above air conditioners, vents covers, and antennas.  If there are sharp corners, like on antennas or awning latches, cut a slit in a tennis ball and put it over the obstacle to prevent it from poking holes in your cover.   If the cover is in direct contact with somewhat narrow features like roof racks or the top of ladders, the cover may be damaged or worn through as the wind whips it over the obstacle.  Ladders and racks can be wrapped in bubble wrap or soft cloth (like an old blanket) to cushion them so they don't damage the cover.

It is advisable to use tire covers whenever the RV is in storage,  both summer and winter.  Tire covers are relatively expensive and a whole lot less expensive than tires.  I've seen folks cut a piece of plywood or OSB they can slip in the fender wells to shade tires.  This will keep them out of direct sunlight, which is the biggest threat, but it is better to use canvas or vinyl tire covers, which wrap around and  protect the tires from ozone as well as sunlight.

Cover up!

RV and Camper Toilets

OK, so RV Toilets isn't a very polite or palatable subject.  You might even ask, quite appropriately, who gives a crap?  However, there are several things newbies should know that will make life on the road -- and in camp -- more pleasant.

First of all, most RV toilets are not made of porcelain like home toilets.  They are made of plastic.  One reason for that is it makes them a lot lighter and saving weight in an RV is important.  However, that means they have special cleaning requirements.  You can usually use most liquid toilet cleaners safely  (although some may not be compatible with holding tank chemicals), but never use harsh cleansers which will mar the finish. Once scratched it is almost impossible to restore and will collect unpleasant deposits.  Use something liked a "Softscrub" cleanser,  Bon Ami ("Hasn't scratched yet"), Bar Keepers Friend, or a Mr Clean Magic Eraser for stubborn stains.  That said, there is an increasing tendency toward the use of porcelain toilets in RVs so you might come across one.  If you do, clean it as you would the one at home.

Although RV toilets look a lot like your toilet at home, there is one very major difference:  residential toilets use a lot of water for flushing (about 3 gallons in current models, up to 5 in some older ones).  RV toilets use very little water.  Conserving water is, of course, a good thing, but it does mean solid wastes sometimes pile up in the holding tank below the toilet if you don't use enough water when flushing.  If you notice this happening, you might want to draw a bucket  of water off your gray water tank and dump it down the toilet.  It will help to wash away piles of stuff, break down the accumulation, provide sufficient liquid for the holding tank chemicals to do their job breaking down waste, and help get enough liquid to flush the tanks when dumping them.  Since the bowl doesn't automatically fill like a residential toilet, you may want  to add more water before using the toilet so there is enough water to capture solids and reduce odors before the toilet is flushed.  That also helps make sure there is enough water being put into the black water holding tank.

One other major difference:  your residential toilet flushes into an essentially endless sewer system; your RV toilet flushes into a limited holding tank.  Unless there is a stoppage in your sewer at home you usually don't have to worry about things backing up.   Even septic tanks are usually large enough that you flushing a toilet won't cause a backup.  The limited holding tanks on RVs means you need to always be aware of the possibility of a back up in the holding tank.  With that in mind, it is prudent to make use of campground facilities whenever possible to reduce filling your holding tank,

When you flush an RV toilet, the water will keep running a little after you release the foot pedal and the valve closes.  This is not a malfunction.  It is designed to do that to leave about a half inch of water in the well in the bottom of the bowl to provide an air tight seal to prevent odors from the holding tank from escaping into the toilet -- and from there into the interior or the RV!  You can press the pedal down part way to add more water too.   You really only need about a half inch on top of the valve to provide an odor seal even when the vehicle is moving.  Adding more at this time is usually just a waste. 

The plastic lid and seat often becomes discolored over time.  Sometimes you can safely restore the appearance by cleaning plastic parts with vinegar or lemon juice.  Lemon juice has the advantage of leaving a more pleasant citrus fragrance.  It is unlikely a standard toilet set will fit an RV toilet.  If yours is damaged beyond repair, seek a matching replacement from your RV store or track one down in a junk yard.  There is really no reason you couldn't use a residential toilet seat if you can find one that fits.

To avoid stains sticking to the toilet bowl in the first place, always press down the flush pedal part way to run a little extra water in the bowl to wet the surface before using the toilet for solid waste. That will coat the walls of the bowl with water to minimize stuff sticking to the bowl.  Don't push the pedal down too far or you will open the valve and all the water will escape.  Then keep a toilet brush or a dowel handy to clean stains after use.  Use the dowel to swab the bowl with a little toilet paper.  That way you don't put smelly deposits on a brush that will be left sitting in a container behind the toilet.  You can simply flush the toilet paper.  I installed an old dirt bike hand grip for extra comfort on the 3/4' quarter round dowel we use in our RV.    The two square edges of the quarter round dowel grip the tissue and give a precision cleaning.  The grip gives you something to hold on to and prevents you from grabbing the dirty end if it falls over or someone puts it away up side down!

Some RV toilets have a sprayer like the one on your kitchen sink that you can use to aid in cleaning the bowl.   These get mixed reviews.  While the sprayer may add convenience to cleaning it sometimes encourages excessive water use and you have a couple more plumbing connections that might be prone to leak.  If your RV toilet doesn't have one and you REALLY want one, it can probably be added.  I decided it wouldn't be worth the cost.  Even now that I have an RV that came with one I still feel the same way.  I find it adds some convenience but it is too easy to waste water.  I use it occasionally but if my next RV doesn't have one I probably wouldn't miss it.  Even with the sprayer, it is usually faster and more effective to clean the bowl with a bit of toilet paper on a dowel as described above.

Don't put facial tissue in your RV toilet.  It will not break down as easily as toilet paper and can cause buildups and clogs that are difficult to remove when you dump the tanks and can block sensors so you don't get an accurate reading on your gauges. 

Speaking of toilet paper, it is said that it is best to use the toilet paper designed for RV toilets.  If you run out, use the cheapest and lightest weight paper you can find.  The fancier, multi-layer brands won't break down well and may contribute to clogs and difficulty dumping the black water tank.  Plain single ply is best.  If you have any question about whether a particular toilet paper is safe to use in your RV or what it will do, you can test it easily yourself.  Just put a couple of squares of toilet paper in a glass jar about half filled with water.  Shake it for a half minute or so.  It the paper breaks down, it will be OK.   To see what unacceptable paper will do, try the same test with an ordinary facial tissue like Kleenex.  It won't break down no matter how much you shake it.  Stuff like that will clog your black water system or porta-potty.

NEVER put disposable diapers or feminine hygiene products down an RV toilet.     Once again, these products won't break down in the holding tank and will cause clogs and bad odors.

Even so-called "flushable" wipes should NOT be flushed down an RV toilet.  They might be OK in residential sewer systems but are likely to clog RV holding tanks.  Standard sewer systems use significant amounts of water that are capable of moving things that would clog an RV holding tank.

Here's a tip for guys:  to avoid urine smell buildup around your RV toilet, sit down to urinate.  OK, so it may not be the most macho thing to do, so what?  Its private.  And it can keep things a lot nicer.  No matter how good your aim is, it still splatters and over time the residue from the mist builds up on cabinets, walls, and floors around the fixture.  You will also find it especially convenient for nocturnal trips when you don't want to turn on any lights.  Your female companions will definitely appreciate having a clean smelling bathroom.

You may have a tendency to limit water usage when flushing to conserve your fresh water.   While conserving fresh water is almost always a priority when boondocking, using too little water will create problems in the black water tank, ranging from th buildup of a pyramid of waste right below the toilet to not having enough liquid for the chemicals to their job or to flush the tank when the time comes.  You don't need extra water for liquids only, but it is essential when there are solids in the toilet,  It may take a little experimentation to determine the right balance between conservation and adequate flushing.  It is usually a lot easier to err on the side of using too much water and slowly backing down than having to deal with too much solids building up in the tank.  Too much water in the holding tank will not cause any problems with dumping, but too little definitely will.  The only problem with using too much water is using up your fresh water and filling your  holding tank when boondocking or when on the road.  Too little water also impedes the function of holding tank chemicals, which break down solid waste and control odor.  If you think you are short of water in the black water tank (as evidenced by piles of solids seen beneath the toilet when you flush it), try adding some extra water collected while warming up your shower or even draw a bucket  off your gray water tank and dump it down the toilet.  I have found that, in general, filling the bowl about half full before using the toilet provides enough liquids for proper operation but your experience may vary.

Odor control for an RV toilet is definitely a consideration.  Not only do you have the natural odors associated with its normal use, it can be a source of foul odors from the holding tank if not used properly.  To reduce odors from normal use, run a little extra water in the bowl by partially depressing the foot pedal before using.  Then make sure there is a little water left in the bottom of the bowl after you flush it. The water acts as an air-tight seal to prevent odors from sneaking past the closed flush valve.  You can also shoot a light spray of air freshener into the bowl and holding tank when you flush it.  But don't over do it.  There is no telling what effect the chemicals in the air freshener might have on the holding tank chemicals.  Speaking of holding tank chemicals, make sure you are always using sufficient holding tank chemicals for the condition of your tanks.  Read the label on your chemicals to find out how many gallons each treatment can handle and add more chemicals proportionately if your holding tanks are larger.  You may also need to add extra chemicals in hot weather as the heat tends to promote rapid and powerful odor build up.  Most RV bathrooms have a roof vent to allow odors to escape.  Many are equipped with a 12-volt fan to aid in evacuating toilet odors and shower humidity.  If your RV doesn't have a vent one can usually be added.  If you have a vent but no fan, a  fan can be added to an existing vent.  That is the simplest and most economical solution but for better air flow and quieter operation choose a Fantastic brand (or similar) power roof vent.  They have large (10") multi-blade fans that move a lot more air than the little 4", 4-blade standard add-on fans.  However, even the little add-on fans will help to some degree.  You will not want to leave the roof vent wide open when you are trying to either heat or cool your RV or when it is raining.  It is especially bad when heating because heat rises and the forced air furnace will push the hottest air in your RV out the vent, causing the furnace to have to work harder.  DO open the vent as needed for toilet use, but don't routinely leave it open.

You will sometimes get holding tank odors in your RV while driving.  The most common cause of this is driving with one or more windows open.  It creates a partial vacuum which literally sucks odors out of your holding tank.  Sometimes odors are drawn back in from the standard roof vent.  There are some after-market holding tank vent "caps" that help dispel odors and prevent them from being drawn back into your RV.  The standard vent cap is just a plastic cap that is a bit larger than the pipe so air can escape.  One of the upgraded caps is designed aerodynamically so it swings into the wind (natural or from driving) to ensure the odors are pulled up and out and directed safely away. These upgraded caps usually cost around $25 and an be generally be installed by a competent do-it-yourselfer and are well worth the investment!

Air fresheners are a common remedy for bathroom odors.  You can usually find a variety of scents at your local Dollar Tree so they don't have to be expensive and you can experiment to see what scent you like best.  When ever using an air freshener, use it sparingly.  You don't want the mist to settle on everything.  Over-use of air fresheners often creates an odor combination that is more offensive than the original holding tank odor.  Think of a strong floral scent blended with sewer smell!  Yuck!

Some smaller RVs, like tent trailers, may have a portable toilet.  Most of what has been said about RV toilets applies to porta-pottys as well.  So, if keep that in mind if you are using a porta-potty in your small RV, tent, or boat.

Enjoy your RV "throne".

Winter Camping

 Winter camping?  You've got to be kidding!  No, there are actually some good reasons to go camping in the winter.  Winter camping may not be as appealing as other times of the year, but if you are into skiing, snowmobiling, or ice fishing, winter camping might provide a good base camp for those activities.  A warm RV would be the most comfortable but even having a base camp with a tent where you can get out of the weather can be adequate.

One thing is certain:  winter camping requires special equipment and special preparedness.  If you are camping in an RV, the RV must be equipped to withstand cold temperatures.  That means being well insulated and having an adequate furnace or other heater(s) and protecting all the water based systems against freezing.  If you are camping in a tent you will want a 4-season tent for starters.  Plus a very sturdy ground cloth.  Then you will need winter sleeping bags.  A tent heater may be a welcome addition.  Just be sure to follow proper procedures for safe use.  When camping on snow I have found it useful to have a couple of extra sleeping bags, he rectangular type that can be opened up.  I laid out one on the floor of the tent under our sleeping bags, then put the second one over our sleeping bags, giving us extra protection against the cold from the snow beneath the tent and retaining body heat that escaped from our personal sleeping bags.  Temperatures that night were well below freezing but we stayed warm and comfy all night.

Your provisions may also need extra protection against freezing.  If you are in an RV and your furnace and/or heaters are sufficient to maintain a room temperature that is comfortable or at least above freezing, your provisions will probably be OK.  But, if you are camping in a tent, you may have to take steps to protect at least some of your provisions from freezing.  Ice chests are used to keep things cold during warmer months but you might find them useful for protecting things from freezing during colder times.  If you have anything that is particularly sensitive you might try putting inside the foot of your sleeping bag, if it will fit without messing up your comfort.  Vehicles like cars and trucks soak up some heat from the sun during the day and may help protect your provisions from freezing over night.  If you wake up to find your provisions frozen, consider running the heater for a while before retiring or even getting up a few times and running it again during the night.  If you are safely using a tent heater it might protect your provisions over night inside your tent but I prefer not to use a heater when I'm sleeping for fear I might never wake up!  Sometimes just keeping your provisions inside your tent will be enough to keep them from freezing.  Even though sleeping bags are designed to keep your body heat in to keep you warm your presence in a tent will warm things up a little bit.

Winter camping also means dressing properly for the weather.  You need to consider both temperature and wind chill to determine how warmly to dress.  It is always best to dress in layers so you can adjust as temperatures rise during the day or your own activity starts to make you too warm.  Getting warm and perspiring in cold temperatures is a recipe for hypothermia.  Try to keep your clothing dry.  Brush off snow before going where warmer temperatures will cause it to melt.  Change out of wet clothes as soon as possible.  You will lose body heat 25 times faster in wet clothes than in dry clothes.  Extremities, like fingers, toes, noses, and ears are especially susceptible to cold.  Warm gloves or mittens are needed on your hands.  Warm socks and winter boots to protect your feet.  Chemical hand and foot warmers can be added for extra warmth.  A hat that covers your ears or good ear muffs or a warm hood can help keep your ears warm.  My favorite winter hat is a Ushanka -- a Russian ear hat.  Its warm, fuzzy flaps cover my ears, neck, and much of my cheeks.  About the only thing you can use to protect your nose is a face mask.  It surprised me just how much even the thin nylon face masks we can wear under our motorcycle helmets did to keep my nose warm.  The only problem I've had with face masks was that they often caused fogging of goggles and eyeglasses.

Winter camping activities will probably include a roaring campfire that is even more welcome and enticing than at other times.  Of course if your camp is a base camp for skiing, snowmobiling, or ice fishing you will be spending a lot of your time participating in your preferred pastime.  Make sure you have properly prepared yourself and your equipment so you can enjoy a failure-free outing.  Also take appropriate precautions for each activity.  

As you should for any remote outdoor outing, be sure to leave word with some you trust as to where you are going and when you expect to return so they can initiate search and rescue if you run into any trouble.

Most important of all, be safe and have fun!  The safety of you and your companions should always be a priority.  Getting sick or injured is never something you want to happen. 

Winter camping is cool!

Fall Camping

Fall is when most campers put their stuff away for the winter.  But there are some really great experiences to be enjoyed as the leaves begin to turn.  Weather won't be too bad yet and is usually even more comfortable than hot summer days.  The cooler evenings are perfect for campfires.  You probably won't have to deal with freezing weather in early fall, but, depending on how high up in the mountains you go and how late in the season it is, you might encounter some pretty cold nights so be prepared to protect you and your equipment against snow and freezing overnight temperatures.  And bring your  cold weather clothing too.

Fall brings colorful leaf changes in many parts of the country.  Be sure to check out potential locations near you where you can enjoy the bright yellows, oranges, and reds as deciduous trees prepare to shed their leaves for the winter.  The only downside to seeking good viewing of fall foliage is that you may encounter heavier than normal traffic as others take the "scenic route" to also enjoy the colors.  Be aware that it is often freezing temperatures that trigger the dramatic changes in leaf color, so don't be surprised if you encounter very cold nights, especially at higher elevations.

Fall doesn't usually deliver the freezing temperatures of winter, but Mother Nature may choose to surprise you, so be prepared.  I remember a "Fall Encampment" I did with with one of my sons in Boy Scouts when it dipped to 24° overnight.  The next day it stayed pretty cold and we even got some snow.  The California boys were totally unprepared for temperatures that cold and took turns warming their hands and other body parts in front of the fireplace in the lodge.  Make sure the furnace in your RV is in good working order and that you have sufficient propane and battery power to keep it going.  If you're tent camping, bring along your tent heater and/or your cold weather sleeping bags -- or an extra set of sleeping bags in case you need to double up to keep warm.  And, of course, bring along plenty of firewood!  Campfires are always nice but are REALLY nice in colder weather!

Fall weather is usually more volatile than summer weather.  It might be beautiful when you leave home, but that can change rapidly, so be sure to check the forecast before you leave home and then monitor the weather during your outing.  A NOAA weather radio is one of the best ways to monitor regional weather but just listening to local radio stations may be useful. And, of course, keep an eye on the sky and check with local rangers or fellow campers familiar with the area to know what to expect for local conditions.  Remember, mountains, which are often a first choice of campers, often generate their own weather so what you see might not show up on regional forecasts.  While the weather seems to be rather fickle almost all year round, the fall variations tend to deliver  more unpleasant surprises than spring and summer. 

Camping facilities, especially Forest Service and other government run campgrounds, may begin to shut down as winter approaches.  Sometimes that means they are completely closed.  Other times they may have already shut off the water to faucets and bathrooms, but the camp sites ares still open to those who come prepared to do without an on site water source.  Commercial venues are less likely to shut down but you may still encounter some reduction in services so always check ahead of time so you don't get surprised and have to forgo your planned activities or seek out a different destination.

If you are camping at a full hookup campground in an RV, be sure to bring along some heat tape to wrap your city water connection (hose and faucet) in case you encounter any freezing temperatures.  Often it is freezing overnight temperatures that trigger the magnificent change of leaf color that makes fall camping so much fun.  A heated water hose will solve part of the problem but you'll still need to protect the faucet itself with heat tape.  If you don't have heat tape, disconnect your hose from the faucet, drain it, and store it inside a protected cabinet each night.  If you leave it connected, the frost-free faucet can't drain and both your unheated hose and the faucet can freeze.  The faucet can still freeze if you use a heated hose.  If that happens YOU will be liable to the campground for the cost of repairing the freeze damaged faucet!  As you can imagine, they are not cheap and the labor to dig them up and replace them is not trivial, especially if the ground is frozen!  

When boondocking, make sure you have plenty of propane.  You're likely to use more for cooking and hot water as well as keeping the furnace going on colder nights.   You can get an "Extend-a-Stay" kit to connect an external propane tank to a motorhome to supply extra fuel for normal propane appliance, but since it supplies gas, it won't work for generators which tap into the liquid in the bottom of the fixed propane tank.  Night time temperatures can be surprisingly cold during fall weather. 

Cooler fall days are often a good time to hit the trails on your dirt bike, ATV, mountain bike, horse, or just hiking.  Moderate temperatures make for pleasant outings.  It is usually much easier to dress in layers to accommodate cooler weather than to try to stay cool when temperatures soar.  After all, there is only so much clothing you can remove when it gets too hot!

Fall is often hunting season in many parts of the country.  That can be a mixed blessing.  You may want to go camping to do some hunting, but if you are not a hunter, you may find yourself wandering around where they're likely to be shooting so you'll want to take appropriate precautions.  Wearing bright orange clothing is one way of distinguishing yourself from potential game but it is a better idea to avoid tramping around in popular hunting areas in the first place.  Most hunters are thoughtful and careful but there are always a few bad apples that spoil things for everyone else.  When I was growing up in Idaho a hunter was bragging in the barber shop that he "got off some sound shots but didn't hit anything".  When the barber asked him what he meant by "sound shots" he said "I heard a noise in the bushes and shot at it, but I didn't hit anything."  The barber proceeded to shave stripe down the middle of his head from front to back in a kind of reverse mohawk and when confronted by the hunter for what he did he defended his actions with a straight razor in his hand and said, in affect,"guys like you should be marked so everyone know who you are".  Other patrons in the shop quickly backed up the barber and the angry customer calmed down and departed without further incident.  Taking any shot without a clear view of the target -- and what's behind it -- is never a good idea.  Even if you're lucky and don't hit something you shouldn't (like a fellow hunter!), obstacles in the path of the arrow or even a bullet can deflect the shot so you miss your intended target and possible hit something you didn't intend to shoot.

Fall into fun!