Winterization Reminder

Just a quick reminder that if you live in a 4-season climate, it is time to winterize your RVs, OHVs, and camping equipment.  Since I have covered winterization in detail in previous posts I won't repeat it here, just cover a few basic topics to help remind you of what you need to be doing.  Not properly winterizing your RVs, OHVs, boats, and camping equipment can expose them to severe damage caused by freezing in cold climates and may invite mold and mildew or damage by pests everywhere.  Water systems are usually a primary focus of winterization.  In cold climates unprotected systems can freeze and since water expands when it freezes, freezing can cause significant damage that can be expensive, sometimes impossible, to repair.  In milder climates water systems stagnant water may develop bad odors and can even accumulate toxic mold and mildew.  Winterization focuses mainly on freeze protection because that is most likely to cause severe damage, but properly cleaning and storing everything is critical to keeping it in good working condition and prevent unwanted damage during storage.  Soiled tents, sleeping bags, and clothing will attract pests that can wreak severe damage on the soft materials.  Bugs (including moths) eat holes in things; mice chew things up and leave nasty droppings everywhere;  mold and mildew weaken fabrics as well as giving them bad odors that are sometimes impossible to get rid of.  A little extra care in preparing your items for storage and prevent a lot of this kind of damage.

Keep an eye on the weather, especially dropping temperatures.   You want to make sure you have winterized all your camping gear and recreational vehicles BEFORE you get regular freezing days and nights.  As long as the temp remains above 32F water and water-based products won't freeze but below 32F they will begin to freeze.  RVs will usually withstand a little freezing overnight temperatures but when it drops below 24F or so at night and never gets above freezing during the day they will be very likely to experience frozen water systems if they have not been properly protected.  Water expands when it freezes with enough force to rupture even sturdy steel pipes.  The plastic pipes and water tanks on RVs are even more susceptible to freeze damage if not protected.

Any vehicle or piece of equipment that includes water needs to be freeze protected.  Either completely drain any water based systems or replace the water with potable RV antifreeze.  Engine cooling systems should be protected with automotive antifreeze of the proper concentration, usually 50-50.

RVs and OHVs that will be stored for next season need to be cleaned and serviced.  If they have water cooled engines, make sure the coolant contains enough antifreeze to protect them against freezing.  Today's gasoline with ethanol deteriorates quickly so it is best to drain fuel and purge fuel from fuel systems.  Turning off the fuel at the tank and letting the engine run until it runs out of fuel usually does the job.  Then drain the tank.   Additives such as Stabil can extend the usable life of gasoline but draining the tank is more reliable.

Camping equipment needs to be clean and dry when put in storage for the winter.  Damp and/or dirty items are subject to rot, mold, mildew, and insect damage.  Perishable provisions should be removed and each one stored appropriately.  Gasoline fueled appliances liked stoves and lanterns need proper fuel treatment.  Camping and OHV clothing along with tents and bedding should be cleaned and stored where it will be safe from pests (insects and rodents mostly).  Adding moth balls or used dryer cloths to the storage container will help deter pests.   Using dryer cloths avoid having the unpleasant smell of moth balls on your clothing or linens.

Camping tools, such as axes, hatchets, shovels, etc. should be properly cleaned, repaired, and oiled before storage.  Metal parts that are not protected are likely to rust.  Wooden handles benefit from being wiped down with linseed oil to prevent them from getting over dried out while in storage.  Canopies and camp furniture should be clean and dry before being put into storage.  Any moving parts should be lightly lubricated.

The off season is usually a good time to perform preventative maintenance and/or upgrades to your equipment.  Doing so during this time lets you take advantage of  "down time" to work on stuff without impacting normal usage and gives you something related to your hobbies to do during the off season.  You might also be able to take advantage of reduced off-season prices.  Or, if you snagged some bargains during year-end clearance sales, now is a good time to get them assembled and or installed.  You might have to wait until next season to try them out, but you will have them ready to go when weather does permit taking out your rig.  Go over your "to do" list for your camping stuff.  Winter is a really good time to make repairs or improvements without impacting your camping schedule.  It is also a fun way to stay involved with your hobbies when heading outside isn't desirable or practical.

You can also use the off season to review and catalog the last season's activities and do research and make plans for next year.   The sooner you document your activities, the better chance you will capture accurate memories of them.  Converting camping log books into more detailed histories for example.  You might be able to expand on some of your camping notes before the memories fade.   Or copying hand written logs into electronic format for easy long-term storage and retrieval. Researching new equipment and new destinations can be a fun way to use the time you normally spend participating in your chosen activities the rest of the year.  Finding things to add interest, fun, or convenience to your camping experience is always a productive use of time.  Identifying new places to go and explore expands your options along with bolstering your knowledge of your environment.  I found it was a lot of fun to learn more of the history of the mining camps and communities where we went dirt biking in the Mojave Desert.   We even got to visit the crash site of one of the X-1 test planes.

Make good use of your off time!

 

RV Power Cords and Adapters

RV power cords and adapters are pretty straightforward.  Just plug them in and you're all set, right?   Well, maybe.  If you have the right cord and the right adapter and plug it into the right source, it really is that simple.  However, if any of those are NOT right you could and probably will  have problems, ranging from poor performance to fire!

Most RVs come with an attached power cord that is appropriate for the power needs of the unit.   Most RVs have either a 30 amp or 50 amp electrical system.  30 amp systems have a 3-prong plug; 50 amp systems have a 4-prong plug.  It is virtually impossible to plug these into the wrong receptacle without using some kind of adapter.  I have seen some truck campers and older trailers that have a separate power cord and it is easy to use the wrong one here.  The unit is equipped with what is called a ''motor base''.  This is essentially a recessed male electrical plug into which the female end of an ordinary extension cord can be plugged in to supply modest power needs of these small RVs.  If anyone has added electrical components, such as heaters, A/C, or even TVs that significantly increase the power demand these connections might not be adequate.  Likewise if any RV has significant electrical additions it could exceed the capacity of the original power cord.  Most RVs use a 3-prong, 30-amp power cord but some larger units have 4-prong, 50-amp power cord.  Regardless of which one you have, it is imperative that you do not exceed the rated capacity!  Monitor use of appliances with high power draws, such as air conditioners, electric dryers, and electric heaters and make sure you don't try to run too many at the same time.  Even some hand-held devices, like hair dryers, consume significant amounts of electricity.

There are many different types of adapters available to give you more options.  However, just because you CAN install an adapter it doesn't mean you SHOULD use it!  You can get adapters that let you plug your 30 or 50 amp RV cords into an ordinary 15 amp household receptacle if you don't have a 30 amp RV receptacle at home.  That is OK if you don't try to run any high-amperage appliances (like air conditioners and electric heaters).  It will usually run your lights and power the fan on your furnace just fine and let the converter keep the house batteries charged.  A lot of RVers use a 15 amp adapter when running electric heaters in their RVs in the winter and that is BAD NEWS!  Very often the adapters will overheat, even to the point that they melt and could cause a fire.  Using an adapter to plug a 30-amp cord into a 50-amp receptacle shouldn't be a problem since the power available exceeds the demand from the 30-amp rated vehicle but you should still keep an eye on power usage so you don't exceed the rated capacity of your RV power cord or the adapter.  The other way around (using and adapter to plug a 50 amp cord in to a 30 amp circuit)could overload the circuit.

Another common problem of inadequate connections comes from using adapters and ordinary extension cords with standard 30-amp or 50-amp RV power cords.  Adapters are available that allow you to connect both 30 amp (3-prong) and 50 amp (4 prong) RV cords to regular 15 amp female outlets and ordinary extension cords.  These allow you to use low demand features like the 12-volt lighting but should NOT be used if you are using higher demand appliances like heaters or air conditioners.  NEVER use less than a 12-3 extension cord.  12-3 means it uses three 12 gauge conductors.  Smaller gauge cords will be likely to overheat and short out, possibly caused a fire.  Smaller gauge cords are less expensive but will cost you more in the long run because they can cause damage to electrical motors and appliances as well as increasing the risk of a catastrophic failure of the cord itself.  There are small, self-contained adapters that connect RV plugs directly to 15 amp female receptacles.  These will usually work fine for just running the lights, but if you use them to run heater or any other high amperage appliances they will over heat.  I have seen them melt both the female receptacle on the extension cord and the plug on the RV cord to where they could not be separated.  Larger, more expensive adapters consist of separate plugs -- a receptacle for the RV plug on one end and an ordinary 3-prong 15 amp plug on the other, connected by a heavy duty cable.  These adapters will be less prone to over heating but using high demand appliances in the RV could still result in damaging the connections, overloading the 15 amp circuit, or over heating the extension cord.  Also be sure to fully extend extension cords when using them.  If you leave part of them rolled up they can overheat often to the point of melting the rubber outer layer and perhaps causing a fire!

I recently had an RV shop tell me they get lots of customers asking why their adapters burned up and they said virtually all of them had been running electric heaters in their RVs.   The load of the heater is not enough to trip the circuit breaker but continuous operation builds up heat in the adapter until they melt and fail.  Owners do that, of course, to prevent freezing during cold winter months, and it seems to work OK -- until the adapters burn up!  Much better to properly winterize the water systems on the unit and remove all contents that might freeze.  And you won't be wasting money running the heater or replacing burned up adapters and power cords.

If your RV is too far from the receptacle for the built in power cord you can purchase both 30-amp and 50-amp extension cords.  They are not cheap, but they will function properly and safely.  And they can be used for very long reaches.  I recently read that cables appropriately sized for 50-amp RV cords can be used for up to 60 miles!  30-amp version are rated up to 20 miles.  No one is going to run extension cords any where near that far, but is nice to know they will work properly for our RV if we need to run an extra hundred feet or so.  The general rule for ordinary extension cords should not exceed 100 feet!  If you must use an ordinary 3-12 extension cord to reach or RV avoid using any high-power appliances.  About the only safe thing to run is lights; A/Cs, electric heaters, and water heaters will exceed the safe capacity of the 3-12 extension cord and/or adapter.

Proper handling of power cords is essential to ensuring good connections and long life.  The most common abuse comes from mishandling the connectors  You should always plug and unplug cords by getting a firm grim on the connector.  Pulling or pushing on the cords tends to break the cord right where it enters the connector, which can cause failure, might shock or even electrocute you, and could start a fire!  Similarly, bending cords close to the connectors weakens the wires and can cause problems.  Of course, you won't have good results if the plug isn't inserted firmly into the receptacle either.   Another fairly common problem is leaving excess cord rolled up when in used.  This can result in heat buildup that can melt the insulation, which results in failure and possible fire.  Cords can be damaged by being run over or dragged over sharp objects or from contact with rough vibrating surfaces.  Inspect all your electrical cords frequently and replace or repair any that have been damaged.  Small nicks in exterior insulation can sometimes be temporarily repaired using electrical tape, but cords with deeper cuts should be replaced or the damaged section cut out and proper repairs made to reconnect the remaining good parts.  Connectors can be damaged if the cord is yanked or pulled at an angle and sometimes burn out due to poor wire connections inside.  Good repairs should include properly soldered connections and safe repair or replacement of insulation.  If you are not absolutely sure you know how to make proper, safe repairs, replace the cord or have it repaired by a professional.  Damaged connectors are fairly easy to replace if you have basic tools and are reasonable skilled.

Using the right power cord, adapters, and extension cords (if needed) can deliver safe and adequate power to your RV.  Proper connections will relieve you from having to worry about damaging appliances and equipment in your RV, melting adapters and connectors, or over heating the extension cord.

Power up safely!

RV Covers

The best way to protect your RV from sunlight and weather is to put in a garage or at least under a carport.  However, those are not viable options for many RV owners.  Not everyone has room on their property for an RV garage or even a carport and construction costs can be very expensive.  Structures have to be extra tall to accommodate most RVs.

The next best option is an RV cover.  Some folks make due with tarps, but they have definite disadvantages.  For one thing, they don't really fit your RV.  A second problem is that many tarps prove to be somewhat abrasive where they contact RV surfaces.  And they don't breathe.  Sure, one of the purposes of any RV cover is to protect the rig from rain and snow, but RV covers are made to be breathable so moisture trapped under the cover can escape while tarps are nearly waterproof and will trap condensation inside, which can be detrimental to the unit being stored.

About the only time you shouldn't cover your RV is during a wildfire.  Blowing embers landing on the cover or more likely to set you rig on fire than if they land on a clean roof.  If a wildfire approaches, remove the cover from your RV and put it somewhere it won't become a target for burning embers.

As fall approaches, it is just about time to start planning winter storage for your unit.  If you don't already have an RV cover now would be a good time to measure your unit and start looking for a good value on an RV cover to fit it.  Custom made covers will fit the best, but will be the most expensive.  I purchased an off-the-shelf universal cover of the right size for my 36' Holiday Rambler Vacationer and have had excellent results.  It fit quite well.  Even the zippered door was exactly where it needed to be to line up with my RV door.  I have had it for about 5 years and it is holding up very well.

Covering your RV with a tarp, while not ideal, could be better than leaving it exposed.  Try to avoid having the tarp contact any painted surfaces where it could rub the paint away.  Stake it out so it is secure but leaves a little room underneath for circulation to prevent condensation and moisture buildup.  Making a framework of PVC pipe to hold a tarp up over an RV might be an affordable way to get fairly good protection without the problems associated with having a tarp in contact with the RV.

Installing an RV cover can be quite a project.  It works best if you have an extra person or two to assist you.  Unpack the cover and determine which end is the front.  You may have to lay it out on your driveway or in a parking lot to find the front.  Then re-roll it from the back.  Carefully get it up to the roof of your RV.  If you are comfortable with the weight you might be able to carry it up while climbing your RV ladder.  If not, climb on upon the roof and use a rope to haul the cover up.  I like to start by laying the rolled cover in the center or the roof near the back of the RV, then unrolling it all the way to the front before spreading it out and down over the sides.  Be sure to remove or flatten any antennas or other obstacles that might poke holes in the fabric before rolling it out.  One way of dealing with things like roof vents is to put a plastic tub up-side-down over them to support the cover.  Once the cover is fully extended down all 4 sides of the RV get down and pull it snug and, if it has a door zipper, try to align the opening with the RV door.  There are usually straps on the front and back to snug it down and ropes to pass underneath the unit and tie off on the other side.  You don't want to pull it so tight it stresses the fabric anywhere but it should be snug enough to keep it from flapping in the breeze.  If you are using a universal cover, make sure the zipper for the door is on the right side before you tie it down.  You may also have a little bit of leeway to adjust the cover to line up the zipper with your RV door.

Keep the cover clear of debris while it is in use.  That usually means getting up on top of your RV and brushing leaves or pine needles away periodically.  Accumulation of debris can hasten rot and can sometimes add weight that puts unnecessary stress on the fabric and even the roof structure.  Snow removal is also a good idea if and when it can be done safely.  You might want to try clearing snow and other debris from the roof by standing on a sturdy ladder beside your RV instead of walking on the covered roof.  Trying to walk on the covered roof can damage the cover and can be dangerous.  You might trip over obstacles hidden under the cover or be tripped by folds in the cover itself.

If your RV is stored anywhere near trees, frequently check to make sure no limbs or branches have fallen on to the unit and damaged the cover.   Carefully remove offending sticks and patch any holes they may have made in the cover.  Small, temporary patches can be made with duct tape.  For more permanent patches sew small tears and use similar fabric to patch larger holes.  Sometimes you can scavenge patch material from the storage bag if your cover came with one.

If you run your RV now and then while in storage (as you should about once a month), be sure the cover is clear of the tail pipe and air intakes.  The same thing applies to the furnace and water heater if you need to use them while the unit is in storage.  I have seen vents burn holes in RV covers and it could ignite the cover and burn up your RV!

Removing your cover in the spring is another strenuous task.  Once again, having an extra person or two to assist you is usually very helpful.  First, sweep any debris off the cover.  Then unfasten all the straps and ropes, then make sure the cover is clear from bumpers and mirrors.   You might want to mark the FRONT before you roll it up.  Then remember which way you roll it!  It will make putting it back on easier next season.  I usually pull up one side and drag the whole cover across the RV and drop it onto the ground on the other side. You may need a second person to guide it away from bumpers and mirrors as you pull it off.  You will want to find a flat, fairly clean space to lay it out to roll it.  Driveways, parking lots, and grassy areas are usually good candidates.  Don't lay it on a wet surface and make sure any pavement is free from oil stains.  Stretch it out from end to end, then fold both sides over to the center.  That will usually make a roll about 6' tall so, depending on the space you have to store the cover, you may want to fold it over again.  That will give you a shorter but much fatter roll.  I usually go with the taller, thinner format and stand it up in a plastic trash can for storage.  Remember which end you start rolling from so you will know where to position it on the roof the next time you install it.  If you start rolling from the front, you will want to unroll it from the back and vice versa.  Keep a brush or broom handy to brush off any debris from the roll as you go so you don't trap garbage inside.  Dirt and debris left in place during storage can cause staining and premature wear.   Once is is all rolled up, tie it off with rope or bungee cords to keep it from unrolling.  Store it in a clean dry place.  You might want to put some moth balls and mouse traps in and around the cover to keep pests out.

You will want to cover your RV before the winter weather sets in.  For one thing, it will be easier to peform the other winterizing tasks, such as freeze-protecting the water systems, with the cover off.  For another, you won't want to be installing the weather in the rain or snow and getting it on early will help keep leaves and pine needles from collecting on the roof or other surfaces and creating stains.

Installing your RV cover is a lot easier if you have at least one extra pair of hands.  Your first task is getting that heavy cover up on the roof.  Having someone to lift it up to you once you are at least half way up the ladder is the best solution.  An alternative, especially if you have to do it solo, is to use a rope to haul it up once you are on the roof.  Be sure you are standing in a stable spot and not too close to the edge as you raise the cover up.  Once you have it on the roof, try to orient it so the FRONT (which you hopefully marked when you took it off) is toward the front of the vehicle.  If not you will end up with it the wrong way and turning it around on top of your RV once it is rolled out is not a fun task!  One year I marked mine but forgot which way I rolled it up so there was no way to know which way it went until it was unrolled and found the FRONT marking on the inside end!  Once you have to going the right way, unfold the sides and drop them down.  I have my assistant help pull the sides straight and the same length and also help me align the zipper with the door.  The next step is to buckle up the fasteners on both ends, then connect the tie down ropes underneath.  It helps to tie a weight to the end of the rope so you and toss it under the RV to your assistant.  A simple overhand knot is usually enough and is easy for your assistant to undo on the other side.  Along with the RV cover it is a good idea to install tire covers to protect  your tires while your unit is in storage.

Cover up!

Illegal Campfires

What are illegal campfires?  Well, quite simply, they are campfires in defiance of posted fire restrictions.  They can be found in dispersed camping areas, back yards, and even in developed campgrounds during times of Extreme Fire Danger.  Fire Restrictions are NOT some kind of government harassment! They are legitimate rules implemented to protect people as well as our forest from the very real dangers of wildfires!  All thoughtful, intelligent, and concerned out door recreationalists will NEVER light illegal campfires.

I never cease to be amazed by the number of people who continue to light illegal campfires during fire season!  As it has been said, I guess you can't fix stupid!  Those HIGH and EXTREME fire warnings are there for a reason!  During HIGH fire levels campfires are only allowed in approved fire pits, usually only in designated campgrounds.  Gas and propane stoves usually may still be used in dispersed camping areas.  During EXTREME fire levels, NO CAMPFIRES or even gas or propane stove are allowed anywhere in restricted areas, not even in Forest Service campgrounds!

Last week, as a volunteer firefighter, I got called out at 1:45 am for a small forest fire a few miles from our home.  Of all places it was right across the highway from the local US Forest Service Ranger Station!  From what we could tell the fire was started by a camper who fled the scene as we arrived.  I sure thought that the 2020 Holiday Farm Fire and the smoke blowing in from current local wildfires and very obvious hot dry winds would still be fresh enough in people's minds that they would be more careful and more willing to observe posted fire restrictions.  After all, you have to drive through miles of burned up forest to get where we are!  Unfortunately, that is not the case.  There have even been a number of residents within the Holiday Farm Fire burn area who we have had to shut down for illegal backyard burning during HIGH fire restrictions.  Sometimes they think that the burned over area is no longer  in danger of burning.  They could not be more wrong!  For one thing, most of the trees killed by the fire are still standing as dead snags, just drying out and ready to burn.  For another, the nice rains this past spring promoted a lot of growth of grass and shrubbery, all of which contributes to easily started and fast moving fires as it dries out in the summer heat, fires than will easily ignite the dead trees left over from the 2020 fire.

A while back we were called to a forest fire at one of the local private campgrounds.  Fortunately we were able to contain the fire before it spread to more than a few acres.  The fire was the result of deliberate and blatant violation of fire restrictions not ignorance or simple carelessness.  The entire area was under EXTREME fire restrictions.  It was posted multiple places along the highway the camper drove along.  It was posted at the front desk and they were informed/reminded of it at check in.  In spite of that they started a campfire.  A member of the staff discovered it, reminded them of the restrictions, and put it out.  As soon as he left they re-lit the campfire!  Before long it had ignited the forest around them.  What idiots!  I believe the campground charged them a small fee for the violation, which was added to their credit card.  Kind of hope the State goes after them for all the costs of fighting the fire too!  Don't often see that but it does happen, especially when there is no question about the identity and negligence of the perpetrators, as it was in this case!

When you go camping, be sure to check the current fire restrictions where you are going.  They are usually clearly posted along the highways and at fire stations and ranger stations along the way and at the entrances to campgrounds.  Know what the limits are for each level of restriction and comply with all restrictions ALL THE TIME.  Ignorance will not be an adequate defense if you light an illegal campfire.

There are more than enough forest fires ignited by lightning or downed power lines.  The last thing anyone needs is for campers to ignore fire restrictions and cause even more fires!  Carelessness or deliberate violations of fire restrictions are responsible for most <85%>  wildfires.  We are losing pristine camping areas fast enough without people setting them on fire!!!

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Keep It All Going -- RVs, OHVs, Boats, Camping Gear

Our outdoor recreational equipment often represents a significant investment and we will want to protect that investment so we get as many years use from it as we can.  Lack of maintenance or improper maintenance can quickly result in premature wear and tear and/or complete failure of equipment and gear.

No matter what form your outdoor recreation takes, you have to invest a little time and effort and sometimes a little money to keep it all going so you can use it when you want to.  Motorized equipment usually requires the most effort and attention but even non-motorized camping equipment needs a little attention now and then to keep it in top shape and extend its useful life.  If you let things go, sooner or later it will catch up with you and your equipment will let you down -- usually at the worst possible time and place!  You might be surprised how little effort it actually takes to keep things in good shape.  Pretty much always a lot less time, effort, and money, not to mention inconvenience, than it takes to fix things once they break down.

Preventative Maintenance is the term usually used to describe what we do to keep our gear and equipment in top condition.  It consists primarily of performing required cleaning, lubrication and adjustments and is usually done before any problems have begun to show up.  Taking care of apparent problems falls under the category of repair rather than Preventative Maintenance.  Proper Preventative Maintenance can usually prevent many problems from every reaching the level where repair or replacement is required.

Motorized equipment (RVs, boats, OHVs) usually have owners manuals to guide you in required maintenance.  If yours didn't come with one you can usually purchase one from the dealer or find one online.  Lacking any owner's manual basic, some basic regular maintenance needed is to change the oil, oil filter, air filter and fuel filter.  Most vehicles also required regular chassis lubrication.  Chain driven vehicles like motorcycles and ATVs need to have the chains cleaned regularly and lubricated before every ride.  Air cooled vehicles need to have the cooling fins cleaned and any air access ways kept clear.  Liquid cooled vehicles need to have the coolant level checked frequently (before any trip in an RV and before any ride in an OHV) and changed according to vehicle and or coolant manufacturer's recommendations.  Coolant does break down and it can also get polluted by oil or engine gases.  Low coolant, caused by leakage, can result in catastrophic overheating which is usually VERY expensive to repair.  Radiators need to be kept free from dirt and debris and checked for leaks.

RVs and many boats are equipped with convenience systems that also required periodic maintenance.  Whenever your unit has a stove, furnace, refrigerator, water heater, water system, air conditioner, or any kind of electronic navigation or entertainment systems they will also need to be inspected and serviced as needed.  Owner's manuals for each device or system are the best source of maintenance schedules and procedures.  If you don't have owner's manuals for all your systems and equipment plan on inspecting and evaluating every one at least once a year, more if they get a lot of use.  Some things to check include any electrical or fuel connections, condition of burners on stoves, water heaters, and even gas refrigerators, lubricating any moving parts, and proper operation of on/off switches and safety devices.  Furnaces and air conditioners may have filters that need to be cleaned regularly.  Refrigerator cooling cools need to be clean and have nothing blocking the normal air flow required for cooling.  Water systems need to be checked for leaks.  Fresh water tanks may need to be purged and sanitized.  Waste water tanks need to be dumped and cleaned regularly and proper chemical levels maintained.  Electronic devices may have wiring or connectors that need to be inspected.  Any frayed wiring or loose connectors should be repaired or replaced ASAP.  Damaged circuits may not only degrade performance but may cause loads that can burn out internal components or even cause a fire.

Any vehicle with wheels and tires will need to have the wheels and tires checked before every trip and wheel bearings service according to manufacturer's specifications or at least once a year.  Tires need to be checked for proper inflation, adequate tread, and inspected for any sidewall damage.  Tires with inadequate tread or sidewall damage need to be replaced ASAP.  Proper inflation is necessary for comfort, performance and safety.  Of course this includes boat trailers as well as RVs, camping trailers, and tow vehicles -- as well as your daily driver!

Most motorized equipment needs to be exercised regularly to keep it in good shape.  If possible, it is best to take your RV, trailer, or ATV for a shore drive or ride at least once a month while it is in "storage" during the off season.  If that isn't possible, just starting the engine and running it for 10 or 15 minutes to let it warm up and shifting through the gears will help lubricate at least the engine and transmission.  When running your ATV, be sure to turn off the gas and let it burn up all the fuel in the system before storing it again.  Today's ethanol containing fuels go bad and gum up the fuel system pretty quickly if you let fuel sit there for a while.

Boat have their own special maintenance needs.  Motorboats have engines and drive trains that require service; sailboats have masts, rigging, and sails to take care of and often have auxiliary engines too.  In order to get the most of of any boat, you will have to keep it in good condition.  Not only that, you must keep them in good condition for safety!  Mechanical failures out on the water can be far more vexing and dangerous than in a camper or OHV on land.

Non-motorized camping equipment still needs to be inspected and taken care of on a regular basis.  Burners on appliances such as camp stoves and lanterns need to be cleaned at last once a year.  Pumps on liquid fuel appliances need to be checked and properly cleaned and lubricated periodically.  A few drops of oil on the leather gasket on lanterns and stoves will help keep it from getting dried out and stiff.  Fabric items, such as tents, awnings, packs, and sleeping bags need to be kept clean and stored where they are protected from moisture, sunlight, and pests.  Any tears or other damage should be repaired as quickly as possible.  Zippers on sleeping bags and packs need to be checked and possibly lubricated.  Tent poles and stakes need to be inspected and any damaged items repaired or replaced.  Tools need to be inspected and properly serviced according to the needs of each tool.  Axes, hatchets, and knives need to be sharpened.  Wood tool handles should be kept smooth and lightly oiled.  Metal parts of all tools should be lightly coated with oil to prevent rust or corrosion while in storage.

Disposable provisions can be both perishable and non-perishable.   Perishable items are usually removed after and replenished again for the next trip.  Non-perishable provisions, such as cleaning supplies and many first aid items need to be regularly inspected to make sure they are still serviceable.  Some items may have marked expiration dates, some may get used up, some may get worn out, and some, like Bandaids and adhesive tapes may lose their ability to stick.  All non-perishable items should be checked at least once a year and doing it more often (like before every trip!) will likely save you a lot of disappointment and aggravation.  Depleted provisions, sundries, cleaning supplies, camping supplies, automotive supplies, first aid supplies, etc., should be replenished before each trip.  Some specific things to check might include shampoo, dish soap, lantern mantles, motor oil, and spray lubricants.  Also be sure to check out any medicines (OTC as well as prescriptions) to make sure you have enough for each trip and they are not expired or contaminated.

Battery powered devices may be subject to battery failure or even corrosion.    Always remove ordinary batteries from flashlights and other devices before leaving them in storage for any extended length of time.  Check all battery powered devices and replace or recharge dead batteries prior to each trip.  If you find corrosion, clean it out as quickly and thoroughly as you can and put in new batteries.  A trick to prevent batteries from discharging excessively in storage is to flip one of the batteries in a multiple battery system around.  That lets you keep the batteries in the device but it can't get accidentally turned on.  Some LED flashlights depend on correct battery orientation and flipping batteries in them might damage the circuitry so exercise extra caution.

Things like camping chairs and beach umbrellas usually need very little maintenance but they can benefit from regular cleaning and occasionally the hardware may need to be adjusted and/or lubricated.  Greasy stains or bird droppings may speed deterioration or attract insects that can damage fabric.  Bent, rusted, or poorly lubricated components can cause excessive wear and premature failure.  Often even aluminum chair frames have steel components that can rust and could fail at the most inconvenient moment and leave you sitting on the ground!  Bent components might be carefully straightened but bent parts are likely need to be replaced eventually as bending (and straightening) them will have weakened the component.

Tools, like axes, hatchets, hammers, saws, and shovels should be inspected and kept properly sharpened.  Believe it or not, sharp tools are actually safer than dull ones.  Handles should always be smooth and tight.  All the tools in your tool box(es) should be checked regularly so make sure they are still there and are in usable condition.  Unpainted metal items should be protected by coating of light oil like WD-40.  Wooden handles usually benefit greatly from being rubbed with linseed oil.

Cooking utensils should always be kept clean and inspected for damage, such as loose handles or ragged edges.  Damaged items should be repaired or replaced.  Knives should be kept sharp and edges protected in storage both to maintain sharpness and to prevent you getting injured getting things out of the drawer or compartment.

Camp clothing should be cleaned and inspected.  Repairable items should be properly repaired as soon as it is reasonable to do so.   Often you can patch camp clothing in ways that are quite attractive and the patches themselves can become part of the camp ambiance.   Decorative patches or even recycled military insignia can often be used to make attractive repairs. Worn out or unrepairable items should be discarded and replaced.  No sense letting useless stuff take up valuable room in your valuable and limited space!  Some worn clothing might be recycled as cleaning rags or, if you are really crafty, braided into rugs!

Keep it going!

Off Road Hand Signals

Most OHVs don't have brake lights or turn signals.  However, it is still a good idea to let other riders around you know what you are going to do.  The hand signals you might have learned way back in traffic school to use in cars and trucks can be used to indicate when you are slowing, stopping, or turning.  That can be really helpful to riders following you in a group or approaching you from ahead of you on a trail or at an intersection.  It can be especially helpful when ride leaders use signals to help those following them to know what is happening.

Standard motor vehicle hand signals include signals for slowing, stopping, and making turns.  Slowing is usually indicated by extending your left arm out at shoulder level and slowly moving it up and down.  Stopping is shown by extending the left arm down a few inches from your body.  A left turn is indicated by extending the left arm straight out and holding it steady at shoulder level.  A right turn is signaled by lifting the left arm to the square.  You might signal you are going to speed up and want riders following you to do the same by raising your left arm up by your helmet with a closed fist and moving it quickly up and down.  This is based on the signal used by leaders of military units to instruct their folks to double time (run).

These hand signals are helpful for both approaching riders and riders behind you in your group.  You might be surprised how much nicer it is on a ride when approaching rides or riders ahead of you let you know what they are doing before they do it.  Be sure to return the favor and make proper use of hand signals to communicate appropriately with other riders around you.  Knowing how many more riders are still coming in a group makes is easier and safer to plan your own progress.

There are some other handy signals often used by trail riders that can add safety and convenience out on the trails.  They are used by two groups of riders approaching each other to alert the oncoming riders to the number of riders following the rider doing the signalling.   It can be VERY helpful to know how many riders are coming at you.  If you see a raised fist they probably are not shaking their fist at you (especially if the fingers are facing you), they are letting you know there are not more riders in their group behind them.   Other hand signals are pretty self explanatory.  Raised fingers tell you how many riders remain in the group behind the group behind the rider doing the signaling.  Holding up one finger (not the middle finger!) indicates there is one rider behind you, two fingers means two riders, etc.  Holding up a closed fist means you are the last rider in your group.  Always hold it with your fingers forward so it doesn't look threatening.  If there are more than five riders in the group behind you extend all five fingers and close them and extend them about 3 times.  The idea is to let oncoming riders know there are lots (at least more than 5 riders) coming behind you not to try to count how many are actually there.  So, for example, if you are number 1 - 15 in a group of 20 riders,  you might show all five fingers three times but just holding up all five fingers lets oncoming traffic know there are AT LEAST 5 or more riders behind you.

The use of hand signals to alert oncoming traffic to how many riders are behind you contributes to better safety as two groups pass each other from different directions on the trail.  Once you have experienced it you may feel it inconsiderate or thoughtless of oncoming riders who don't give signals.   It can be frustrating not knowing if there is yet another rider coming around the corner in front of you and can help keep your safe is there is! Even if the approaching group doesn't use signals, try always to use them yourself as it can be helpful to approaching riders, make it safer for the riders behind you in your group, and might even inspire other riders to learn more about it and how to use them themselves.

Talking about hand signals reminded me of something that happened during my Army Basic Training many years ago.  The instructor was testing us on hand signals and one of the guys in my platoon was really, really good at them.  Two instructors fired off different hand signals in rapid succession and he never missed one.  After several valiant tries to trip him up they gave up and told him "Get lost!" To which, without hesitation he flipped them the bird!   Quick thinking!  And, BTW, the instructors were not offended but were rather impressed with his skill and creativity under pressure.

Hand Signals are Handy!

RV and Tow Vehicle Wheels and Hubs

 RV and tow vehicle wheels and hubs need regular inspection and servicing to ensure proper operation and long life.  The schedule in your vehicle owner's manual is the best guideline for when to perform maintenance.  Lug bolts or nuts ideally should be checked before each trip and torqued to factory specifications.  Wheel bearings should be repacked with grease once a year or every 10,000 to 12,000 miles, whichever comes first.  Failure to keep your wheel bearings properly greased is a pretty sure formula for having them fail out on the highway or off road.  You can be sure that when they do fail it will be at just about the worst possible time and place!  Wheel bearings on fixed drive axles, like on rear wheel drive vehicles, are usually lubricated by oil from the differential, so keep the differential topped off.  Front wheel bearings and wheel bearings on any steerable wheels are lubricated by grease pressed into the bearings and should be regularly checked and re-packed.

Ideally lug bolts should be checked using a torque wrench to be sure they are adequately tightened to factory specifications given in the owner's manual.  Since many driver's don't even have a torque wrench in the tool box at home, let alone on the road, the next best thing is to tighten the lugs with a proper lug wrench as tight as you can get them using your hands and arms.  Do not use any kind of extender to multiply the force!  Doing so can over-stress, stretch, strip, and even break lug bolts.

Wheel bearings on rear wheel drive axles are usually lubricated by oil from the differential.  Keeping the differential filled to the specified level is essential for lubricating the bearings as well as protecting the gears in the differential.  The bearings on the front wheels of rear wheel drive cars and the rear bearings on front wheel drive car use grease for lubrication.  As indicated above, these wheel bearings should be repacked with grease once a year or every 10,000 to 12,000 miles, whichever comes first.  You can have a mechanic do it for $100-200 but if you have the right tools and same basic do-it-yourself mechanic skills you can probably do it yourself.

How to repack wheel bearings.  If you choose to repack the wheel bearings yourself I am sure you can find some good Youtube videos to guide you.  But here are some basic instructions to get you started.  First, here are the tools and supplies you will need:  a jack, chocks for the wheels, a pair of Channel-lock style pliers, a pair of diagonal pliers, a long punch, a ball-peen hammer, a new cotter pin of the right size, and a can of waterproof grease.  Once you have assembled your tools and supplies, put the vehicle in park, chock the wheel(s) on one side of the vehicle, release the parking brake, then jack up the wheel on the other side.  Remove any decorative hub caps.  Then remove the lug nuts or lug bolts and remove the wheel and tire.  I use the back side of my pliers to tap the dust cap off the center of the hub.  Then remove the cotter pin from the large castle nut on the end of the axle.  To do this straighten the flat ends and pull it out using the loop on the other end.  Diagonal plies are a good way to get a grip on the cotter pin to pull it out.  It is recommend that you always replace the cotter pin with a new one when you put things back together.  Remove the castle nut using Channel-lock style pliers and the washer/spacer behind it.  The washer has a tab on it that slides in a slot on the axle.  I put the nut and the washer inside the dust cap to help keep them clean and keep track of them.  Grab the hub and alternately pull on each side so as to wobble it back and forth.  This will cause the outer wheel bearing to pop out so you can remove it.  Then pull the hub off the axle.  To repack the inner wheel bearing you will have to remove it from the hub.  Lay the hub down with the outside up, the use a punch and hammer to tap out the inner wheel bearing.    Once you have both bearings out, clean them thoroughly with solvent and then let them dry thoroughly.  You can buy a tool to press grease into the wheel bearings but, as I was taught by my father, who was a professional mechanic, you can do it by hand.  Put a big glob of grease in your off-hand (left hand if you are right handed).  Then pick up a clean bearing with your dominant hand and hold it with the biggest side down.  Holding one side of the bearing press the other side down into the glob of grease repeatedly until grease pushes up between the rollers of the bearing.  Then rotate the bearing to a new spot and repeat until you have grease pushing up between ALL of the rollers.  Once you have pack both bearings you are ready to reassemble the hub.  Lay the hub down with the outside down.  Place the inner bearing into the back side of the hub (which is now on top).  The bearing goes with the tapered end toward the inside of the hub and the wider side out.  Then put the retainer on the hub over the bearing and gently tap it into place, making sure it is all the way in all the way around.  Clean the axle and slide the hub into place.  Then insert the outer wheel bearing into the hub.  Once again the tapered end goes in first.  Next comes the washer.  Be sure the tab on the inside fits into the slot on the axle.  Then install the castle nut.  Tighten it using the Channel-lock style pliers until it is firmly in place, then back it out about a half a turn to release excess pressure on the bearing.  You don't want that nut to be too tight or too loose!  Align on of the slots in the castle nut with the hole in the axle and install the cotter pin.  Bend the flat ends back toward the axle to keep the cotter pin from coming out.  Then tape the dust cap back on and reinstall the wheel.  Then you are ready to do the next wheel.

When you have the hub apart, inspect the hub and the bearings and replace any worn or damaged parts.  Most of the wear will usually show up on the bearings, but loose lug bolts/nuts can allow a wheel to damage the hub and the lug bolts.  Damaged lug bolts can be pressed or hammered out and replaced.  A damaged hub should be replaced.  I once encountered a badly damaged hub on a 50 year or trailer for which there were no modern replacements.  I was able to have a competent welder repair the hub and I replace all the lug bolts for near factory perfect repair.

It is a good time to inspect the brakes and make any needed repairs while you have the hub off.   The main things to look for are thin brake shoes or pads or damaged brake drums or rotors.   Think brake shoes or pads should be pretty obvious.  New ones have 1/4-3/8" of lining on the shoes or pads.  If there is less than 1/8" of lining you should definitely replace then while you have things apart.  Check the brake drums for ridges or a deep lip.  Check rotors for ridges, warping, or discoloration that is a sign of over heating.   Badly worn drums or rotor might be able to be turned at a machine shop to restore the braking surface.  If there isn't enough material left in the drum or rotor for it to be turned it will have to be replaced.  Inspect all the brake hardware and replace anything that is damaged, including weakened springs.

Regular maintenance of wheels and hubs will avoid premature wear that can result in extensive and expensive repairs.

Keep rolling, rolling, rolling!

 

Trailer Wheels and Hubs

Trailer wheels and hubs are all too often taken for granted and fail to get the attention and preventive maintenance they need.  They are fairly simple and don't require a LOT of maintenance, but what they do require is essential to good performance and longevity.

One of the most frequent wheel failures is completely preventable:  loose lug bolts or nuts.  Lugs should be checked before every trip to make sure they are tight.  Vibration from normal operation can loosen them, and if they are not completely tight, the wheel will begin to slip, elongating the holes in the wheel and damaging the lug bolts and the hub.  The best way to make sure your lugs are tight is to test them with a torque wrench.  Not everyone has a torque wrench, especially when out on a trail or road somewhere far from home.  Making sure the lugs are as tight as you can get them with your hands using a lug wrench should usually be sufficient.  Do not use an extension on the lug wrench to multiply your strength as it an easily over-stress or even break the lug bolts.

The most common hub failures are wheel bearings.  Wheel bearing failure is often caused by dry (insufficiently lubricated) bearings.  Next in line is contaminated grease, usually dirt or water.  Contamination gets in when the seals are worn or damaged.  Water incursion sometimes occurs in boat trailer hubs from frequent immersion.   Over aggressive use of a pressure washer can force water into wheel bearings too.  Sometimes the only seal protecting the outside wheel bearings is the dust cap.  If that gets knocked crooked or off, dirt and water and easily get into the bearings.

Trailer hubs contain ball bearings that allow the wheels to turn with minimal resistance.  These bearings need to grease for them to operate smoothly and properly.  If the grease runs out or gets contaminated (usually by dirt or water) the bearings will wear out faster and the friction could generate enough heat to cause a fire.  If you have an owner's manual for your trailer you should follow the specifications given there for how often to re-pack the wheel bearings.  Lacking an owner's manual, you  should re-pack the wheel bearings on a regular schedule based on either mileage or passage of time.  A general mileage guideline for trailers in normal use is to repack the wheel bearings every 10,000 - 12,000 miles.  Since trailers don't have an odometer like motor vehicles do you may have to estimate mileage based on how long and how many trips you take.  Even if you don't reach the 10,000 - 12,000s it is a good practice to repack the wheel bearings at least once every year.  I usually do mine as part of my spring pre-season preparations.  You can usually have a mechanic repack trailer wheel bearings for $100-200 but it is a pretty simple task to do yourself if you have the right tools and some basic mechanic skills.

You may need to repack bearings more frequently if your trailer is exposed to heavy use or is used a lot in dusty or wet (like a boat trailer) conditions.

 If your trailer hubs get excessively hot when towing or you hear any noise or feel any roughness when you spin the wheels your bearings will most likely need to be replaced.  If they spin freely and quietly repacking them should be enough to keep them working fine for another season.

How to repack trailer wheel bearings.  If you choose to repack the wheel bearings yourself I am sure you can find some good Youtube videos to guide you.  But here are some basic instructions to get you started.  First, here are the tools and supplies you will need:  a jack, chocks for the wheels, a pair of Channel-lock style pliers, a pair of diagonal pliers, a long punch, a ball-peen hammer, a new cotter pin of the right size, and a can of waterproof grease.  Once you have assembled your tools and supplies, chock the wheel(s) on one side of the trailer, then jack up the wheel(s) on the other side.  Remove any decorative hub caps.  Then remove the lug nuts or lug bolts and remove the wheel and tire.  I use the back side of my pliers to tap the dust cap off the center of the hub.  Then remove the cotter pin from the large castle nut on the end of the axle.  To do this straighten the flat ends and pull it out using the loop on the other end.  Diagonal plies are a good way to get a grip on the cotter pin to pull it out.  It is recommend that you always replace the cotter pin with a new one when you put things back together.  Remove the castle nut using Channel-lock style pliers and the washer/spacer behind it.  The washer has a tab on it that slides in a slot on the axle.  I put the nut and the washer inside the dust cap to help keep them clean and keep track of them.  Grab the hub and alternately pull on each side so as to wobble it back and forth.  This will cause the outer wheel bearing to pop out so you can remove it.  Then pull the hub off the axle.  To repack the inner wheel bearing you will have to remove it from the hub.  Lay the hub down with the outside up, the use a punch and hammer to tap out the inner wheel bearing.    Once you have both bearings out, clean them thoroughly with solvent and then let them dry thoroughly.  You can buy a tool to press grease into the wheel bearings but, as I was taught by my father, who was a professional mechanic, you can do it by hand.  Put a big glob of grease in your off-hand (left hand if you are right handed).  Then pick up a clean bearing with your dominant hand and hold it with the biggest side down.  Holding one side of the bearing press the other side down into the glob of grease repeatedly until grease pushes up between the rollers of the bearing.  Then rotate the bearing to a new spot and repeat until you have grease pushing up between ALL of the rollers.  Once you have pack both bearings you are ready to reassemble the hub.  Lay the hub down with the outside down.  Place the inner bearing into the back side of the hub (which is now on top).  The bearing goes with the tapered end toward the inside of the hub and the wider side out.  Then put the retainer on the hub over the bearing and gently tap it into place, making sure it is all the way in all the way around.  Clean the axle and slide the hub into place.  Then insert the outer wheel bearing into the hub.  Once again the tapered end goes in first.  Next comes the washer.  Be sure the tab on the inside fits into the slot on the axle.  Then install the castle nut.  Tighten it using the Channel-lock style pliers until it is firmly in place, then back it out about a half a turn to release excess pressure on the bearing.  You don't want that nut to be too tight or too loose!  Align on of the slots in the castle nut with the hole in the axle and install the cotter pin.  Bend the flat ends back toward the axle to keep the cotter pin from coming out.  Then tape the dust cap back on and reinstall the wheel.  Then you are ready to do the next wheel.

When you have the hub apart, inspect the hub and the bearings and replace any worn or damaged parts.  Most of the wear will usually show up on the bearings, but loose lug bolts/nuts can allow a wheel to damage the hub and the lug bolts.  Damaged lug bolts can be pressed or hammered out and replaced.  A damaged hub should be replaced.  I once encountered a badly damaged hub on a 50 year or trailer for which there were no modern replacements.  I was able to have a competent welder repair the hub and I replace all the lug bolts for near factory perfect repair.

If your trailer has brakes it is a good time to inspect the brakes and make any needed repairs while you have the hub off.   The main things to look for are thin brake shoes or damaged brake drums.   Think brake shoes should be pretty obvious.  New ones have 1/4-3/8" of lining on the shoes.  If there is less than 1/8" of lining you should definitely replace the shoes while you have things apart.  Check the brake drums for ridges or a deep lip.  Badly worn drums might be able to be turned at a machine shop to restore the braking surface.  If there isn't enough material left in the drum for it to be turned it will have to be replaced.  Inspect all the brake hardware, including the electromagnets that operate the brakes and all the wiring and connections.  

If you have an older trailer you might not be able to find matching replacement hubs for it if they get worn out.  Sometimes, if you are really lucky, you can find used hubs in a junk yard, but that is a kind of hit and miss situation.  When I ran into that problem I was able to find a welder who repaired the damaged hub and restored it to a nearly like-new condition.  The alternative was replacing not only the damaged hub but both hubs and the axle, at huge expense!  If you have to have hubs repaired make sure the studs fit tightly afterwards or have the welding tack-weld them in place so they don't fall out when you take the wheel off.

Some trailers are equipped with Bearing Buddies.  These have grease fittings that allow you to grease at least the outer bearing without taking them apart using a grease gun.  This a good way to add a little grease between repacking the wheel bearings to maintain performance and longevity.  Axles that were designed with Bearing Buddy type grease fittings might even grease the inner wheel bearings, but many Bearing Buddies are after-market installations and the only way for grease to get to the inside bearings along the axle, which is not very efficient.  For best results, follow normal schedules for repacking wheel bearings even if you have Bearing Buddies.

With regular maintenance your trailer wheels and hubs should last a long time.  The time and effort or cost to keep them up to speed (pun intended!) is well worth the investment.  Failing to do so an result in much more extensive and expensive repairs!

Bear with it!

Is Disposable Kitchenware OK for Camping and Boating?

Disposable kitchenware (paper, styrofoam, and plastic plates, cups, bowls and utensils) can add a lot of convenience when camping or boating.  They are light weight and do not require washing, which are both very helpful advantages during an outing.  They save time and reduce the use of water and filling of holding tanks.  About the only downside to them is that they are not reusable, which means we are buying them just to use them once and throw them away.  Then throwing them away creates its own problems as they can quickly add up to a lots of trash to manage.  The bottom line is balancing cost and convenience versus time and resource management.  Hard core environmentalists sometimes campaign against using disposable products at all.   I too value the environment, but I also value my time and would rather spend it in enjoyable activities instead of washing dishes and wasting water.  Conserving water is almost always a priority when camping.  By the time you count the cost of soap and water, contribution to sewage, and its impact on the environment, disposable items might even actually come out on top!  Permanent, heavy items can be washed and reused, but they add weight to what YOU have to carry and can contribute to reduced vehicle mileage over time.  By the time you take the amount of soap and water it takes to clean them over and over again, the cost and environmental impact adds up even more.  In my opinion, disposable items are the better choice for camping and other outdoor activities.  The cost is minimal as is the environmental impact, and the convenience and savings in time is well worth it. 

Some plastic kitchenware may actually be reusable.  It still has the benefits of being light weight and fairly impervious to shock damage like china or porcelain dishes.  However, most light weight plastic stuff is designed to be disposable and may actually be cheaper to replace than it is to clean it, especially if you count the value of your time.

Paper plates, cups, and bowls can almost always be easily disposed of in your campfire, reducing the amount of trash you have to corral and haul home.  Avoid leaving too much food on them or you may generate unpleasant smoke and odors from the fire, depending on the content left.  You should also avoid burning them when the wind kicks up as being light weight burning fragments are easily caught by the breeze and launched off into possibly combustible material around or even some distance from your fire.

Some people prefer not to burn plastic or even styrofoam items as they can generate toxic fumes.  That being said, you will still see lots of people regularly tossing them into the fire.  As far as I have been able to determine, burning small amounts at a time should not be a problem unless perhaps you are standing directly in the path of the poisoned smoke and actively inhaling the fumes, which most of us will surely avoid anyway.  I avoid burning large quantities at one time -- better to get rid of them as you use them instead of hoarding a whole bag to burn all at once, which might increase the toxic fumes.

Disposable kitchenware is handy, is easy to store, easy to set up, and pretty easy to dispose of.  All of that adds up to time savings at mealtimes in camp.  Time saved doing repetitive, tedious tasks gives us more time to enjoy the activities we go on our outdoor outings for in the first place.  The modest cost of disposable items usually is a small price to pay for the added convenience and reduced cleanup time and effort.  Not having to wash them saves fresh water and reduces filling holding tanks, both of which extend resources for longer trips and are more environmentally friendly.

Paper plates come in a variety of thicknesses.   Heavy duty plates can handle just about anything your regular dinnerware can handle but thin plates might need a little help.  Thin plates might be better thought of as "plate liners" as all too often they are not adequate by themselves.  A few years ago I picked up some plastic paper plate holders that are perfect for holding the thinnest, cheapest paper plates, making them both cost effective and convenient.  They even have a tapered lip built into the bottom where you can slide the top of a soda or beer can and use the can as a handle on the plate, allowing you to hold your drink and plate easily in one hand.  Using thin plates without a holder is good way to end up with your lunch in your lap or on the ground.  Frisbees are often about the right size to support a paper plate and are fun to play with between meals.  Commercial paper plate holders are typically available in wicker and plastic.  You can usually find them at Walmart and on Amazon.com.  Sometimes you can even get them at Dollar Tree.  I found mine on a closeout at Big Lots several years ago and am oh so glad I stocked up on them at the time!

There may be special occasions when you want or even need to use more sturdy plates etc.   Cutting steak or other fairly heavy meats on paper plates can be difficult and even dangerous.  Any knife sharp enough to cut through the meat is surely sharp enough to cut through the paper plate and then into your flesh!  Sometimes you may have a special occasion to celebrate when you want things to be a little fancier.  Just be prepared to invest extra time in cleaning and washing the dishes and putting them away after you special meal.  You might find disposable items that are suitable for celebrations.  There are a variety of fancy plastic cups and glasses, even nice looking wine and champagne glasses.  Typical plastic cutlery is light weight and cheap looking but with a little looking around you can find heavy duty clear plastic or even shiny silver plastic cutlery that has a nice look and feel but can still be disposed of instead of needing to be washed.  If you still want to use disposable plates look for plastic plates or check out some of the fancier and heavier paper plates and bowls under the Chinette brand.  One of their ads claims their "heavy duty paper plates are strong enough for seconds and thirds. Bring on the sauces, the steak knives, the finger foods, and the apple pie!"  Yet, when you are done they can still go into the campfire.  You may have seen the Dixie ads where someone dumps a whole plate full of spaghetti or other messy food in another person's lap using a flimsy paper plate.  Dramatic and choreogrpahed as that might be, it is not unrealistic.  I have seen it happen too many times in camp and while it may be amusing to watch it is never fun or pretty for those involved.

Of course, ‘Pack it in, pack it out’ is one of the original tenets of back country travel and clearly one we should always honor as outdoor enthusiasts where ever we may go.  Whether you are in a developed campground, dispersed camping site, back packing, or out in your boat, you always need to control your trash to prevent damaging or contaminating the environment.  Leaving stuff lying around or letting it blow away makes a mess for the next visitor -- and that next visitor could be you!  Trash tends to beget trash.  If you fail to pickup something that blew away, it is more likely that subsequent visitors will be less careful also and the trash will build and build.  It only takes a few seconds, minutes at most, to clean up around your camp site.  Our Desert Rat off road motorcycle group always organized a quick policing of our camp site and the area around it.  We often did fire pit maintenance too, one time using a magnet to drag more than 10 lbs of rusty nails out of one fire pit!  Sure glad we didn't run any of our vehicles through there before the cleaning!

The Bottom Line:  Yes, disposable kitchenware is suitable for camping and boating, as long as you dispose of it properly.   It can save time and reduce water usage  It is also usually lighter to carry around than regular dinnerware.  Used appropriately is shouldn't have any more impact on the environment -- perhaps less -- than ordinary kitchenware.

Keep it clean and easy!

COVID and Camping -- Summer 2022

In most places most COVID restrictions have been lifted by now letting us get back closer to what was once normal.  Here in Oregon masks are still required in health care environments, including pharmacies as well as hospitals, clinics, doctor and dentist offices but not for other locations.  However, as new COVID cases increase there is currently talk of reinstating mask requirements indoors.  Fortunately that hasn't happened yet (mid-July) but it if the number of cases picks up again, we could see more restrictions.  I have been somewhat annoyed to see people without masks stand with a sign right at eye level telling them masks are required in that facility while all the workers and most of the people in line with them are properly wearing masks.  Yes, I know, the masks are a nuisance and inconvenience, but everyone really should make an effort to comply with posted regulations.  Think about it:  where are you most likely to encounter people with illnesses, including COVID?  Of course the answer is in health care settings!

Masks are no longer required for most outdoor activities.   That is excellent news for campers and boaters!  For the most part we can once again enjoy our outdoor recreational activities without restrictions on the number of people in our group or having to wear face masks.  I recall a while back when there were numerical restrictions on the size of gatherings I heard an amusing story.  Since normal gatherings were limited to 10 people but the limit for funerals was 30, one creative guy listed his Thanksgiving feast as a funeral for his pet turkey, allowing him to invite more than 10 people!  O admired his creativity!

With restrictions being eased, the number of COVID cases is peaking again in many areas.  If we want to reduce the chances of getting COVID, we still need to be on guard.  Avoid contact with anyone who has or is suspected to have COVID.  Maintain social distancing, even in out door situations.  Wearing an ordinary mask helps prevent you from giving COVID to someone else if you happen to have it.  Wearing a KN95 mask actually provides you some protection as well.  Even before COVID we wore KN95 masks as EMRs in our volunteer fire department when responding to medical calls where we could be exposed to any number of airborne or bloodborn infections.

If you believe you have COVID you should still quarantine yourself until you are safe to be around.  Initial quarantine for travelers was 14 days after returning from out of country or out of state but more recently it was lowered to 3 days.  Home COVID tests provided by the government let you find out right away if those unpleasant flu-like symptoms you might be having are actually COVID. If you have COVID symtpoms, stay away from other people!  You would not want to responsible for giving COVID to any of your family or friends.

COVID vaccines are working to reduce the number of deaths and hospitalizations from COVID.    The COVID vaccine may not completely guarantee you won't get COVID, but it is still a good idea to get it.  I know of a number of people who were fully vaccinated and had the booster shot and still got COVID.  However, their cases were much less onerous than unvaccinated victims.  They did not require hospitalization and recovered quickly.  I realize there are people who object the the vaccinations for legitimate religious or personal reasons.  However, I strongly urge everyone who can to get vaccinated to help reduce the chances of getting infected, to minimize the affects if you do get it, and to help reduce the overall spread of the disease.

The Bottom Line:  we should be able to go camping, boating, off-roading, and enjoy most of our favorite outdoor activities without wearing masks, at least for the time being, which is a very good thing!

Camp COVID Free!