Dump Valve Maintenance and Repair

Dump valves are pretty reliable unless they freeze or get damaged by mishandling or impact with something.   However, they will sometimes need repair or replacement in normal use due to ordinary wear and tear on the seals or getting debris trapped as they are closed.  You can also break the internal slide or bend the shaft if you don't pull and push the valve straight in and out.  If you discover sewage accumulated inside the dump cap between dumps, you probably have one or more leaking valves, assuming you closed them correctly and completely the last time you used them.  The color and smell of the accumulated fluid will tell you which valve is leaking.  Foul smelling stuff that is blue, green, or brown is coming from the black water tank.  Some holding tank chemicals might even turn it orange!  Grayish, soapy water that is nearly odorless is from the gray water tank. The black water valve will  be large, 3" valve.  The gray water valve may also be a 3" valve but on some rigs it is a smaller, 1 1/2" valve.  Having a clear plastic dump cap instead of a black one will let you see if there is anything behind the cap before you open it allowing you to avoid a nasty surprise.  Always make sure both valves are fully pushed in before deciding you have a problem with the seals.  Sometimes a bit of debris may get caught in the valve when it closes causes it to leak until it is opened and flushed again.  You may be able to clear debris from seals using a brush or carefully cleaning the groove with a bent wire.  A persistent leak is a strong indicator that the seals need to be replaced  Having a clear plastic dump cap will let you see if there is leakage before you open the camp and get doused with nasty stuff.  Having a dump cap with a hose fitting allows you to slowly and easily drain the accumulated sewage safely into the dump hose or a container before you open the cap and get a big uncontrolled "whoosh" of nasty stuff all over you and the ground.  The space between the valves and the cap can usually hold a quart or two of nasty leakage.  Dump your tanks before attempting to work on the valves.  After you get home from dumping and parked where you're going to be working on them, put a container under the valves and remove the outer cap and open the valves and leave them open for a while to let everything drain out and stop dripping.  This will help avoid getting sewage up your sleeve or dripping in your face while working on the valves.

Sometimes you can clean debris from the seals by carefully scraping the groove with a bent piece of wire.  Be gentle and careful if you try this.  You only want to remove the debris and must avoid damaging the soft rubber seal.  Often even soft debris that has been stuck for some time may have already damaged the seals, forcing you to replace them to correct the problem.

To avoid problems with your dump valves, always pull and push the handles straight.   Any angle on the handle could bend the shaft, damage the seals, or crack the slide.  Once any of these things has happened you will have to replace the valve.  Fortunately they aren't very expensive (around $20 each at even higher priced RV parts stores and even less at discount outlets) and they are usually pretty easy to change.

Always wear protective rubber, nitrile, or vinyl gloves when working with sewer hoses and dump valves  to avoid exposure to chemicals and nasty waste products.  Then thoroughly wash your hands after you have removed and discarded the gloves.  Coveralls are a good idea too, and be sure to wash and disinfect your work clothing when you're done, especially if there was any spillage.

Sometimes the problem is due to worn seals, which can be replaced without replacing the entire valve.  However the effort is pretty much the same whether you're replacing just the seals or the entire valve.   Seal kits will be a little less expensive than complete valves but since the valves are fairly inexpensive, I prefer to replace them rather than just change the seals to avoid any extra labor if just changing the seals doesn't solve the problem.  Some valves can only use their own branded seals and if you get the wrong ones, they will leak.  That is one reason I prefer to replace the whole valve so I don't have to worry about matching old seals.  You'll need to dump and flush the holding tanks before beginning any repair.  The valves are blade valves that are fastened between flanges on either side -- one on the outlet from the tank and one on the pipe that leads to where you attach the dump hose.  They are secured by 4 bolts -- one in each corner of the square part of the flange on the valve.  Remove the 4 bolts, then carefully pull out the valve.  Remove the old seals and clean the flanges.  Install the new seals on the flanges.  Make sure to put the large end of the seal over the lip on the flange.  Then very carefully slip the valve (new or old) into place, taking care not to dislodge or distort the seals.  This can be tricky.  Replace and tighten all 4 bolts and you should be good to go.  New valves should come with new bolts, another benefit of replacing the valve and not just the seals.  Always hold the nut and tighten or loosen the bolt head because the nut is knurled to prevent it from slipping.  Turning the nut will grind the surface of the valve.  Tighten the bolts until the heads begin to bite into the plastic flange.  Once the bolts are tightened, close the valve to make sure it operates smoothly.  If there is any resistance or it won't close completely the seals have probably slipped and you'll need to take it out and reinstall them properly.   At least partially fill the tank with clean water to test the installation.  Sometimes (often) the old bolts will be so badly rusted you can't unscrew them to disassemble the valve.  If there is room you may be able to cut the bolts using a hacksaw or a die grinder with a metal cutoff blade.  Since you will be replacing the old valve you can cut right through the valve itself.  Cut the the center of the bolt through the middle of the flange of the valve itself and be careful not to damage the flanges on either side of the old valve.  The flange on the valve itself should provide enough buffer to prevent you from damaging the flanges on the tank and pipe.  If you damage those other flanges you'll have a lot more to repair!

Some small leaks might be temporarily repaired using a wet patch roofing tar.  This is not a suitable permanent repair.  The underlying cause must be diagnosed and repaired, but if there is a small drip around the junction of the valve body and the flanges it mounts to, sealing it with tar might let you finish a trip and then make appropriate permanent repairs when you get home.  Using wet patch sealant avoids having to wait until the tanks are drained and dried.  Wet patch roofing tar is intended to be used in rainy conditions and may not be resistant to the chemicals and other contaminants in sewage.  While it may stick to wet surfaces, it may not stick to greasy, soapy surfaces or those contaminated with human waste and holding tank chemicals.  Clean the surface as well as you can before attempting to apply wet patch.  I  like Henry's wet patch cement, available in 10 oz tubes to fit a caulking gun at most home centers.

Maintaining dump valves mostly consists of keeping them lubricated so they operate smoothly without any tearing or excessive wear.  Lubricate the shaft of the valve with a silicone spray.  DO NOT use WD40 as it will dissolve the grease that helps seal around the shaft and will make the valve harder to open and close.  The plastic "paddle" that actually opens and closes usually doesn't require any direct lubrication but some holding tank treatments contain valve lubricants or you can buy special valve lubricant to put into your holding tanks.  Valve lubricant is usually dumped down the toilet when the tank is empty so it goes directly to the valve.  You will have to put lubricant down a sink or shower drain to lubricate gray water valves.  Choose the drain closest to the gray water tank and put it in when the tank is empty.  You may want to open and close the valves a time or two to get the lubricant into the seals before adding waste to the tanks.

Dump valves may have metal or plastic handles.  These handles sometimes get bent or broken, especially the plastic ones.  If the valve is otherwise in good shape, the handles are easily replaceable.  Open the valve, then grip the shaft with cloth protected pliers to avoid damaging the shaft, while twisting the handle to remove it.  Then screw on the new handle and tighten it and close the valve.

Some dump valves are located away from the outside edge of the RV and are operated via extension cables.  If you have valves that are difficult to reach you may be able to replace them with cable operated valves for added convenience.  When replacing existing valves with cable operated valves, use new Bladex/Valterra valves.  They are specially designed to operate easily with cables.  Follow the installation instructions carefully to ensure proper operation. Some ultra-luxury units even have electrically operated dump valves.  To me that is overkill and unless you have physical problems that prevent you bending over to reach the dump valves or to pull the handles, I don't think it is worth the expense and it introduces extra electro-mechanical parts that can be additional points of failure. If you have cable or electrically operated valves, make sure to push the handles all the way in when you are done flushing your tanks.   For some reason it seems easier to forget to close them than it is to close the directly operated valves and the results can be very nasty the next time you take the cap off the dump port to connect your sewer hose!  It may be harder to tell if cable operated valves are fully closed because there is some flexibility in the cable, altering the "feel" you get when closing valves with direct handles.  Always close all valves with a firm, smooth, quick motion to ensure the valve is fully closed.  If you encounter resistance there may be debris interfering with the operation.  Open the valve and inspect the seals and remove any debris before trying again.

Dump it!

Hydration for Camping, Boating, and OHVing

Maintaining adequate hydration while camping and involved in related activities, such has hiking, OHV riding, boating, hunting, fishing, horseback riding, is essential to both comfort and good health.  Because of lot of our camping and related activities take place in warm or even hot weather, our hydration requirements are usually greater than normal.  However, hydration is still an important factor colder times.  You will still lose body fluids through respiration and perspiration even when the outside temperatures dip well below freezing.  The effects of dehydration can range from discomfort to coma and even death!  If you find yourself feeling really lethargic in hot weather, you probably aren't drinking enough water.  If your urine is more yellow than clear, you are definitely starting to get dehydrated.  When you start feeling thirsty you are beginning to get dehydrated.

It  may seem kind of counter-intuitive, but you can easily get dehydrated even when involved in water based activities.   Just because you are on or even in the water doesn't mean you are getting enough inside.  Even when boating or swimming you will need to drink plenty of water to stay hydrated and maintain your mental capacities and the strength you need for your activities.  If you happen to swimming in fresh, pure water you might be able to just take a few swallows now and then to quench your thirst.  But in salt water or water that isn't suitable for drinking you will need to bring along your own supply.  Most of us don't wear apparel for swimming that is conducive to carrying water so you should plan regular breaks to get a drink from a canteen, water bottle, or hydration pack you have close by in your vessel or on shore.

How much water should you drink?  You have probably been told to drink 8 glasses of water per day.  I'm not sure where that came from but I have heard it is NOT accurate.  The truth is that each person's need for water is different and even your need will be different from day to day, depending on activity, diet, medications,weather etc.  One starting point for determining how much water you need is to multiply your weight by 2/3 to get the number of ounces of water you should drink every day.  However that, even at best, is just a starting point.  A better guideline for whether you are drinking the right amount of water is the color of your urine.  If your urine is usually clear, you may be drinking more water than you need.  If it is dark yellow, you are definitely not drinking enough water.  Pale yellow urine probably indicates you are getting about the right amount of water.  If you are out camping and engaged in strenuous activities like hiking, swimming, or riding an OHV, keep an eye on the color or your urine and if it is darker or smells stronger than usual, drink more water.

It is not very common but is is possible to drink too much water.  When this happens it is called hypnoatremia or water intoxification.  Drinking too much water flushes the electrolytes out of your system and then your body can't really use any water.  Symptoms include drinking when you aren't thirsty, headaches, cramps, swollen lips, nausea, swollen feet and ankles, and even unconciousness or coma.   Treatments may include cutting back on how much water you are drinking, taking diruretics to get rid of excess water, and sodium replacement.  If I thought I was drinking too much water I would first probably switch to sports drinks to try to restore electrolytes in addition to cutting down on fluid intake.  Water intoxification can be serious and may need to be diagnosed and treated by a doctor.  In extreme cases it can even be fatal!  Known fatalities are mostly linked to water tortures but it has been known to occur from someone over drinking water, usually the result of some kind of medical/chemical reaction.  Illegal drugs such as Ecstasy are believed to create unquenchable thirst which can lead to water intoxification.  I have seen elderly people suffer from hypoatremia from simply drinking a lot more water in a day than they are used to consuming.

When you begin to feel thirsty, you are already starting to get dehydrated.  To avoid dehydration start by pre-hydrating your body prior to your activities and then drink plenty of water throughout the day.  When dirt biking we start drinking plenty of water and sports drinks at least the day before our planned rides.   For sure there is a trade off between drinking enough water and too many nocturnal trips to the restroom.  It may take some experimentation to work out what works best for you. Then be sure to drink enough water or sports drinks during your activities the next day. You won't want to "tank up" on liquids just prior to physical activities.  Too often it can cause serious stomach distress which sometimes results in throwing up everything you just drank!  Not pleasant nor a very effective way to stay hydrated.  The best way is to take frequent sips of water or your favorite electrolyte frequently throughout the day.  A hydration pack, like a Camelbak, is a handy way of easily getting the water you need without interrupting what you're doing..While having enough water is the biggest concern, you will also need to maintain a proper balance of electrolytes to ensure comfort, performance, and good health.  One of the most important electrolytes is salt and it is one of the first to get depleted through perspiration.  You can buy salt tablets that are convenient to carry during activities.  How much salt do you need?  That will depend on several factors, including your body size, outside temperature, level of perspiration, and amount of activity.  You might be able to find some guidelines via online research, but it may be best to check with our doctor so you get enough but don't over do it.  Too much salt isn't good for you.  Isn't it interesting that salt is composed of two deadly poisons:  sodium and chlorine.  The scientific name for salt is Sodium Chloride.  Either component taken by itself will kill you but you need the compound to live.  Some researchers believe it is more than a coincidence that the percentage of salt in your bloodstream is almost same as it is in the ocean.  If you become extremely dehydrated and require medical attention, one of the treatments will be to give you a saline solution (salt water) intravenously to quickly restore hydration and electrolyte levels.  However, drinking salt water is not usually a good idea, only if you are experiencing symptoms of dehydration such as heat cramps. Trying to drink salt water to simply quench you thirst will result in stomach problems and even more dehydration as your body works to process the salt.

If you find yourself feeling particularly lethargic or weak during hot weather, you are probably starting to suffer from dehydration.  Drinking plenty of water will probably restore your energy levels.  By the way, as mentioned above, it is best to drink small amounts frequently rather than gulp down a whole bunch at once.  This is especially true if you are involved in vigorous physical activities where a large amount of cold water in your stomach could cause rather severe pain and discomfort.  While ice water is particularly appealing in hot weather you're better off sipping room temperature water when  you start getting dehydrated, but keeping a glass or other container of ice water handy throughout the day may encourage you to drink more.  I even like to crunch and eat the ice, but I was told that might be a symptom of low iron in my blood!

Drink small amounts of fluids frequently, especially during very hot weather and/or strenuous activity.  Don't wait until you feel thirsty and then chug-a-lug a whole lot of liquids.  Maintaining your fluid levels by small drinks throughout the day works much better and you will be far more comfortable.   That's one reason I like to wear a Camelbak style hydration pack when dirt biking -- I can take a few sips of water any time I want.  You REALLY don't want to chug down a quart of cold water and then do something physically demanding, like running or agressively riding a dirt bike or a horse!  That is a good way to feel really sick to your stomach really quickly and you'll be likely to loose everything you drank very quickly through vomiting.  I usually add ice cubes to my Camelbak when I fill it each morning and I wrap it in piece of bubble foil insulation cut from an old windshield sunscreen to help keep it cool out on the trail.  The reflective surface protects the dark fabric from absorbing heat from sunlight and the bubble foam helps keep the bladder cool.  However, it is seldom still icy cold when I consume it on hot desert rides.

What you drink is as important has how much you drink.   Good old water is the best source of hydration, followed by sports drinks that replenish lost electrolytes.  However some sports drinks contain excessive amounts of sugar or artificial sweeteners.  The negative affects of too much sugar are pretty well publicized, but the side affects of artificial sweeteners are less well know.  I have been told that one of man problems with the popular sweetener aspartame is that it blocks the release of lactic acid from the blood stream, creating muscle fatigue.  Avoid high caffeine drinks like colas and avoid alcohol.  The are both diuretics, which speed dehydration.  Soda and beer also contain significant amounts of sugar that can also be unhealthy.

A frequent and painful early symptom of dehydration is heat cramps.  These usually occur in the arms and legs but can affect just about any muscle, like those in your throat or even your tongue.  They are like really bad charlie horses.  For immediate relief try stretching the offending muscle if you can.  Sometimes you may get cramps in both the front and back of your arms or legs and then it is impossible to stretch out one without aggravating the cramping in the other.  When that happens, about all you can do is find the most neutral position and have someone bring you some electrolytes to drink.  We've found that dill pickle juice works very well, especially if you hold some under your tongue before you swallow it so it can be directly absorbed into your bloodstream.  If you don't have pickle juice, drink a little salt water.  A teaspoon or so in a glass of water should be about right.  To avoid heat cramps altogether, drink plenty of water and sports drinks throughout the day to maintain your fluid and electrolyte levels.  Heat cramps usually don't require professional medical assistance but you may have some muscle soreness for a few days.

The next level is heat exhaustion.  The first symptoms of heat exhaustion include heavy sweating, cold, clammy skin, fast pulse, and nausea and vomiting.  It may also include dizziness and headache and may include heat cramps.  If you or someone in your group shows these symptoms, they need to cooled down and given fluids as soon as possible.  Heat exhaustion may require professional medical attention if it is not addressed quickly or goes on too long or the patient doesn't respond to cooling and liquids.

Symptoms of more severe dehydration called heat stroke will include hot dry skin (when you stop perspiring you are dangerously dehydrated and your body can't cool itself).  You may become nauseous, dizzy, and get headaches.  If you or any of your companions exhibit these symptoms, you need to cool them down and get some fluids into them as quickly as possible.  Severe dehydration can lead to unconsciousness, coma, and, eventually, even death.  Douse or spray a severely dehydrated person with cool water and encourage them to sip water.  An unconscious victim will require intravenous liquids so seek medical attention as soon as possible.   Heat stroke typically requires professional medical assistance to avoid serious long term damage.

Avoid dehydration by pre-hydrating before any strenuous activity on hot days and then drinking plenty of water throughout the day.

There are several convenient ways to carry water with you during your activities so you can drink as much as you need throughout the day.  Bottled water comes in handy sizes and a lot of backpacks and fanny packs have special outside compartments to keep them easily accessible.  There are also carriers designed specifically to hold bottled water that can be worn slung over a shoulder or around your neck if you're not wearing a fanny pack or back pack.  Some are even made of neoprene to insulate the bottle to keep the water cooler.  Here are some examples available from Amazon.com. Water bottles come in both single use and multi-use varieties.  When you buy bottled water it normally comes in a disposable container.   Multi-use water bottles usually offer extra features such as being insulated, having closable tops, handy carrying handles, and built-in straws.  There are some reports of toxic chemicals from single use bottles leeching into the water when they are used for an extended period of time.

Canteens have been used for many years by campers, hikers, scouts,soldiers, and cowboys to carry water.   The come in various sizes, shapes, durability, and ways to be carried.  Here is a typical boy scout canteen, with a carrying strap to sling it around your neck and/or over your shoulder:
                                                   


                                                 
Here is an army style canteen that is carried on your belt:




                                                       

Blanket style canteens are often used when horseback riding, but are often used by hikers too.  They come in various sizes ranging from less than a quart to a gallon or more.  The blanket covering can be wet so that evaporation helps cool the contents.  You can carry them via the neckstrap, but if you take advantage of keeping the blanket wet to cool the water you will have wet spot on your clothing where the canteen rests.

                                                    

My favorite water system for outdoor recreational activities like dirt biking is the Camelbak Hydration pack.  These are soft back packs with a vinyl bladder inside and a tube from which you can suck water directly through a "bite valve" that keeps it from leaking out between drinks.  I add a Velcro tab to the bite valve and a mating tab on the center of my chest protector so keep the tube handy for use while riding.  Sometimes it takes some extra glue or even a tiny cable tie to  keep it in place.  If you can't get the Velcro to work, just tuck the bite valve in the side of your chest protector.  Here is an example of a Camelbak hydration pack:

                                                   
If you use a Camelbak you may want to pre-cool it to keep your water cooler longer.  However, don't freeze it.  The ice will block the drinking tube and it will probably be several hours before you will be able to drink from it.  The best way I've found is to empty out any stale water, fill the bladder with ice cubes, then continue filling it with as much water as it will take.  Doing this my 70 ounce Camelbak gives me ice cold water for 8-10 hours even in air temperatures hovering around 100°.  To help keep it cold I wrap the pack itself with a reflective windshield cover.  The reflective surface together with the little bit of foam insulation helps keep heat from both the sun and from my body penetrating the pack and warming the water. 

What hydration system you use will depend on the kind of activities you will be participating in and the budget you have for acquiring a system.  Small canteens are relatively inexpensive; large hydration packs will cost several times as much but will carry more water more conveniently.  The most important thing is that you make sure you always have an adequate supply of water.

You can fill your canteens or hydration packs with water or with sports drinks.  However, if you fill them with sports drinks you will have to make sure you clean them out regularly to avoid spoilage or sticky deposits.   In many, many years of dirt biking in the Mojave Desert I have found water to be the best source of hydration on the trail.  Then I consume some sports drinks when I return to camp to balance my electrolytes.  Water is far more refreshing and avoids the sticky aftertaste that often accompanies sports drinks.  I definitely do not recommend filling canteens or hydration packs with sodas!  First of all, sodas are not ideal sources of hydration, especially if they contain caffeine.  Secondly, the bouncing of the container will make the soda fizz, possibly leaking out and quickly losing all the carbonation so it goes flat.  If you're out on the trail for any time, the contents of your hydration container is going to get warm and warm, flat soda is disgusting and not something you will likely drink very much of.  Water is the best thing to fill your hydration system -- and your body -- with.  It is even still healthy and refreshing when it is luke warm.

Having plenty of good tasting drinks you enjoy on hand is a god way to stave off dehydration.   Water is the very best, with sports drinks that replace lost electrolytes coming in second.  Caffeinated and alcoholic beverages should be way down the list and avoided or used only in moderation.  Both are diurectics that will cause you to lose hydration.  Typical sodas may deliver a lot more calories than you might like to consume while sitting around and relaxing around camp.  Diet sodas probably have artificial sweeteners that can have very unpleasant side effects.  For example, as mentioned above,  the popular sweetener "aspartame", found in many "diet" products, blocks the transfer of lactic acid out of tired muscles.  It is the accumulation of lactic acid that makes your muscles ache and feel fatigued.  Not a good way to recuperate from strenuous activity.

Whatever type of container you use for hydration you will want to keep it clean.   Those used only for water usually need little maintenance unless they have been contaminated.  If the water begins to get cloudy or smell bad, you will want to clean and sanitize your canteen or hydration pack.  A canteen can be sanitized by filling it with water and adding a few drops of unscented chlorine bleach.  Put on the cap, shake it well, and let it stand for a few hours.  Then dump it out and rinse it until the chlorine smell is gone.  Rinsing it with a solution of water and baking soda can speed removal of the chlorine smell.  Hydration packs can be cleaned in essentially the same way but the drinking tubes sometimes require additional cleaning with special little brushes.  You should be able to purchase a hydration pack cleaning kit where ever hydration packs are sold.  They aren't cheap but neither are they terribly expensive and they will make cleaning your hydration pack a lot faster and easier.  Your taste buds will thank you!

Drink up!

Gas versus Diesel

Gas versus diesel powered motorhomes and tow vehicles.  The question always comes up.  And, unfortunately, there is no easy answer.  But there are some distinct advantages and disadvantages to each the potential buyer should be aware of.  Gasoline and diesel engines behave differently, have different strong points and different weaknesses.  Personal preferences play a significant role in choosing between gasoline or diesel powered RVs and tow vehicles.

There have even been long standing debates over whether gasoline or diesel engines or more environmentally friendly.  Unfortunately, there has not been any conclusive answer.  Turns out the issue is more complex than most people could possibly imagine or understand.  Each technology has its benefits and its problems.  Each type of fuel yields different results, with gasoline winning in some categories and diesel in others, but neither can be conclusively declared better than the other in all categories.  And, of course, there are those who simply want to ban the use of ALL fossil fuels, but we will leave that for another discussion.

Gasoline powered vehicles are generally less expensive to purchase than diesel.  Gasoline engines typically deliver more horsepower from a given displacement.  Gasoline engines usually provide faster acceleration  than diesel engines. They are usually less expensive to work on also.  An oil change on a gasoline vehicle is typically around $50 or less.  But they generally get poorer fuel economy and don't have the high torque of diesel engines.  If you have gasoline powered motorsports toys you can use your spare gas in your vehicle if you run low.  I've even burned pre-mix 2-stroke fuel in my truck in a pinch with no negative side effects.  Gasoline powered chassis usually have the engine up front in a "doghouse" between the driver and passengers seats.  For some people the engine noise and heat can be a problem.  You can buy fuel for gasoline vehicles at any gas station, although you sometimes have to look for one with adequate lateral and overhead clearance to accommodate an RV.  Surprisingly enough, many motorhomes run on regular unleaded gasoline but some require more expensive premium fuel.  Be sure to know what your vehicle requires.  If you use a low or mid grade fuel and the engine starts to"ping", upgrade to premium fuel soon, before permanent engine damage can occur.  One cause of pinging is pre-ignition, which means the fuel mixture ignites before the spark plug fires.  This can burn valves, which leads to poor performance and reduced mileage and are expensive to repair.  Gasoline powered vehicles will be subject to annual emissions inspections when the vehicle is registered where such inspections are required.  A poorly tuned engine also creates high levels of pollution (NOX and unburned hydrocarbons) that are really bad for air quality.

Vehicles equipped with diesel engines are more expensive to purchase but the usually deliver better fuel economy, higher torque, and longer life than gasoline engines.   The higher torque of diesels usually means greater load capacity but they may be a bit slower to get going.   Diesel engines are usually more expensive to work on.  Simple oil changes can run $200-$400!  The increased price means it may take a lot of driving to recoup the additional cost in fuel savings or longevity.  If you plan to full time and/or put a lot of miles on your vehicle, a diesel may be advantageous.  At one time diesel fuel was cheaper than gasoline, and that coupled with better fuel economy, reduced fuel costs.  But these days diesel tends to higher than premium gasoline (at least where I live),which doesn't make a lot sense because diesel is made from the dregs left over from refining gasoline.  If you do a lot of boondocking for OHV activities, you may have to carry some extra diesel fuel since the gasoline for your toys is not compatible with diesel engines.  Diesel engines in general are a bit noisier than gasoline engines, not necessarily in the exhaust system, but from direct sounds generated within the engine.  They do not have spark plugs to ignite the fuel.  The fuel is ignited by heat generated from compression.  This can sometimes be heard as a sort of knocking sound, which some people find objectionable.  Some people don't like the smell of diesel exhaust either.  Diesel chassis often have the engine in the rear (known as a "diesel pusher").  On large motorhomes this puts the engine up to 40 feet behind the driver, greatly masking any engine noise.  Finding diesel fuel on the road used to mean looking for truck stops, but the proliferation of gasoline powered automobiles has made diesel much more available.  Yet even today, not all gas stations carry diesel, so you need to check the signs before you pull in.  Make sure you use only the designated diesel pump.  Putting gasoline into your diesel vehicle will cause a lot of problems and can be expensive to remedy.  Motorhomes with diesel engines may have diesel or propane powered generators.  If your camping style is such that you use a lot or propane, you may want to make sure the generator is diesel powered to conserve propane for other uses or carry extra propane.  In some areas subject to emissions inspections, diesel powered vehicles are exempt from emissions inspections.  They will still be required to pass any required safety inspections.  But increasing pressure on air quality is forcing some areas to impose emissions controls on diesels so be sure you know what is required where you will register you vehicle.  Diesel powered vehicles often have higher weight carrying and towing capacities than their gasoline counterparts.  So if having a really big motorhome or being able to tow a really large trailer is important to you, you may want to seriously consider getting a diesel.  Be sure to check the horsepower and torque ratings  and Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating so you can be certain you're getting enough power for satisfactory performance.   All diesels are not alike.  You might be disappointed with the performance of some of the older, smaller diesel engines.

I have owned both gasoline and diesel powered motorhomes and found both to be satisfactory.  I've never full timed or taken long cross-country trips more than a couple thousand miles, so I was never able to take full advantage of the higher fuel economy attributed to diesel vehicles.  My diesel was a 40' pusher, and, due to its size, age, and weight, did not deliver particularly good mpg numbers.  Unfortunately, I also saw diesel fuel climb from cheaper than unleaded regular to more expensive than premium gasoline which quickly negated the cost savings I anticipated when I bought it.  More recently, diesel dropped below regular unleaded again, then bounced back higher than premium so you may have to keep any eye on prices and trends before you make any decision -- and then be prepared for it to flip back and forth over time.

The bottom line:  choose what is right for you each time you make a purchase.   As for me, there are a lot of other key factors that have far more influence on my decision than the type of fuel a vehicle uses.

Choose the right fuel.

The Venerable GM 454 Engine in RVs and Tow Vehicles

Many large gasoline powered motorhomes are fitted with a Chevrolet 454 "big block" V-8 engine.  You will find them on many older Class A's based on the Chevrolet P-30 chassis and on the mor recent Workhorse Chassis.  They are generally quite powerful and reliable, but not particularly stingy when it comes to fuel economy.  I've owned several 454 powered Class As, ranging from 28' to 35' and they all pretty much got about 6-7 mpg -- up hill, down hill, head wind, tail wind, towing a trailer, driving solo, sitting in a parking lot!  A popular saying is that a 454 can pass anything but a gas station.  I like the power of the big block engine in a motorhome, especially when towing my enclosed motorcycle trailer.  I have tried motorhomes and pickups with the smaller 350 engine and found fuel economy was often even worse (especially when towing), while lacking the pulling power of the 454.  By the way, the newer fuel-injetected Vortec engines are quite a bit more fuel efficient than the older carburated models.  I got 16 mpg on my 4WD pickup on a 20 hour winter trip even driving in 4WD through the snow about half the time!

Over the years the 454s have developed a reputation for a few specific issues you may want to watch for if your RV is thus equipped.  For starters, they tend to generate a lot of heat.  The typical solution is to improve the exhaust system, replacing the stock manifolds with headers, enlarging the exhaust pipes, and installing free flow mufflers.  I've seen the stock manifolds on more than one motorhome glowing cherry red after climbing a steep hill.  That kind of heating contributes to warped manifolds causing noisy and dangerous exhaust leaks.  Upgrading the exhaust system will have other benefits beyond getting rid of heat.  A more open exhaust reduces back pressure and lets the engine "breath" better.  I experienced a very dramatic demonstration of the affects of a restricted exhaust system when I blew out the "donut" gasket between the manifold and the exhaust down pipe on one of my 454s.  I was climbing a gentle hill at the time and the motorhome jumped forward like it had been kicked in the butt when that gasket blew out.  A better exhaust is one of the key features of the famous "Banks Powerpack".  Another major component of the Banks upgrade is an improved air input system.  Together these two changes typically deliver both improved performance and better gas mileage, which is a pretty good deal since most performance modifications improve power at the cost of fuel economy or fuel economy at the cost of power.

That heat also translates into well known starter problems.  The starter is necessarily tucked in right under the right exhaust manifold where it is exposed to very high temperatures.  The most common symptom is hard starting when the engine is hot.  The starter binds up inside and can't overcome the internal resistance with enough force to turn the engine over.  Over time, the problem further damages the starter so it doesn't work well anytime.  After market high performance and geared starters are available and are said to help mitigate common 454 starter problems.  Another common heat related problem is melting of wiring on the starter.  You may also be able to install a heat shield to keep some of the heat from the exhaust manifold from impacting the starter directly.  There are at least two kinds of heat shields.   One is a metal plate that helps reflect heat from the  manifolds away from the starter.  Another is foil wrapped, insulated blanket that wraps around the starter. 

There is another problem that is often mistaken for a starter problem.  The symptoms are much the same.  The starter will turn over once or twice and then stall.  This is often due to a faulty ground strap between the engine and the vehicle frame instead of a dead  battery or worn out starter.  Over time the connection between the ground strap terminal and the frame can become rusted, weakened by flexing or vibration, or corroded so it doesn't make a good connection.  If you experience starting problems that would be one of the first things to check.  Many times it can be corrected simply by cleaning the terminal and the spot where it attaches to the frame.  Or you may want to replace the entire ground strap, especially if it is small or flimsy to start with.  And old fashioned braided steel battery ground strap about an inch wide is a good choice if you have to upgrade.  I've even heard of at least one RVer who added a second ground strap on the right side of the engine.  Perhaps he has a "Valley Girl" mentality ("For sure, for sure.").  A second strap shouldn't be necessary, but it certainly won't hurt.

You may find folks who recommend an oversize oil filter to increase oil capacity.  They will often claim it will even help dissipate engine heat, especially if the filter is equipped with cooling fins.  I tried the oversize filters on a couple of my rigs and can't say that I noticed any perceptible difference.  However, having nearly an extra quart of oil in the system certainly won't hurt anything (except a small pain in your wallet for an extra quart at each oil change and the extra cost of the oversized filter).  The extra filter area may also be more efficient at removing contaminates.  It could reduce contamination and prevent unnecessary wear.   Anything that helps keep the oil cleaner longer is a good thing. The impact of these factors is difficult to measure.  The oversize oil filter is usually available as a direct replacement for the regular spin-on filter, but will be a lot taller.   The consensus I found in my most recent research is that over sized oil filters probably aren't worth the extra cost, but if it gives you peace of mind, it certainly won't hurt anything.  I put it in the "good to have", not the "must have" category.

On the subject of filters, there is another filter worth thinking about:  the air filter.  First of all, you always want to keep your air filter clean.  A clogged air filter will significantly reduce mileage and performance.  I like to use a K&N re-ususable air filter.  They generally allow greater air flow than standard paper elements and can be cleaned and reused over and over. They are a bit pricey to buy, but since they don't have to be replaced frequently, they pay for themselves over a few change intervals.  The improved air flow gives better power and better fuel economy.  Regular cleaning consists mostly of knocking off loose dirt; scheduled in depth cleaning calls for washing the filter in an approved solvent and re-oiling it with K&N filter oil.

Most 454s are equipped with fan clutches that engage and disengage the fan depending on the temperature.  You can usually hear when the fan kicks in or off  from inside the coach.  The sound can be quite dramatic.  Many drivers mistake it for downshifting when the fan kicks in.  If the fan is always engaged or never engages, the clutch may be faulty.  The purpose of the clutch is to engage the fan when it is needed for cooling.  If it is on when it isn't need, it puts some additional drag on the engine, which could have a slight affect on fuel economy and performance, and it may prevent the engine from reaching proper operating temperature by over cooling the radiator.  If it never engages, the fan will never operate, resulting in overheating.

Speaking of radiators, I've seen some motorhomes equipped with what I would consider to be undersized radiators.  I'm not talking about the square inches of surface or height and width, I'm talking about the number of rows of cores inside.  The more rows, the better it will cool.  If you have consistent overheating problems you should have the radiator checked.  First of all, there can be internal deposits that restrict flow and significantly reduce cooling capacity.  This can be tested with an optical sensing thermometer.  If there are places the radiator that are hotter than in other places, there is something restricting the flow, most likely some kind of internal blockage.  Secondly, you might have a radiator with only a few rows of tubes in the core.  If boiling out and rodding out the radiator to get rid of deposits doesn't solve your problem, check with your radiator shop about upgrading to a heavier duty radiator with more core tubes.  Unless the extra thickness pushes the radiator back into the fan or interferes with something out front, a heavier duty radiator should bolt right in where the original was without any modifications required.  Of course the heavy duty radiator will be more expensive than an OEM replacement, but the improved performance is well worth it.  I once had a radiator "rodded out" and it still didn't perform well.  When I finally had it replaced I found the previous mechanic had only "rodded out" the area he could reach under the filler cap instead of removing the tank and rodding out the entire radiator.

I have personally owned several motorhomes and pickups powered by 454s.  I have experienced some of the manifold and starter problems described above but I have always appreciated the raw power they deliver.  I've heard it said a 454 can pass anything but a gas station.  Newer fuel injected and computer controlled engines deliver far better mileage than their older carbureted predecessors.  I have a Chevrolet K3500 with the Vortec 454 that delivered about 16 mpg on a round trip from Salt Lake City to Denver Colorado one winter when we were in 4wd much of the way!  My motorhomes typically got around 6-7 mpg.  I now have over 300,000 miles on that K3500 and, although compression has been dropping, it is still running strong.

Big blocks rock!

RV/OHVBoat Shake Down Cruise

Shake down cruises probably apply mostly to RVs and OHVs and boats, but even tent campers can benefit from them, especially when you are just starting out or have purchased new equipment you need to try out.  The purpose of shake down cruise is to familiarize yourself with use and operation and to try out all systems and equipment and see if there are any problems that need to be addressed.

A shakedown cruise should be fairly close to home, in case you find any major issues you need to deal with.  If you need to test a motorhome or tow vehicle you'll want to make the trip long enough to properly exercise the mechanical components and capabilities but you probably shouldn't take off on a major trip (inter-state or cross-country) until you're sure you have the bugs out.  Sometimes you can check out a lot of things by "camping" right at home, although you will need to do at least some driving to exercise and prove vehicle mechanical systems.  A shakedown cruise for your boat should be on a familiar waterway with access to any emergency services you might require.

Hopefully weather will allow you opportunities to check out both heating and air conditioning systems in your RV an/or other vehicle.  We found a recent shakedown cruise in April in Utah was ideal.  Days were warm enough to test the A/C and nights cool enough to use the furnace.  Be sure to exercise all the major systems and watch for any signs of failure or poor performance.  A good way to check out your generator and microwave oven at the same time is to fire up the generator then hat up a cup of water in the microwave for 1 minute.  You should have hot water for a nice cup of your favorite hot beverage.  Plumbing leaks on RVs, even new ones, are fairly common.  Look for wet spots or drips beneath your RV or on the walls, floor, or ceiling.  If the 12-volt water pump cycles when you don't have an fixture in use you probably have a leak in a pipe or connection that you should track down before your next trip.  Until then, turn the pump off when you are not actively using water to minimize leakage and resulting water damage until you can fix the leak.  If you have an older camper with a pressurized water system it will lose pressure even when you aren't using any water if there is a leak.  If you are camping in a campground with hookups, watch for wet spots and listen for hissing sounds that might indicate a plumbing leak.  Sometimes you can hear water flowing at the supply faucet. If you do when no water is being used in your RV you probably have a leak.  It could be a leaky hose instead of a problem inside the RV so check hose and connections first.  They are the most likely to fail.

If your RV refrigerator uses more than one power source (gas, 120 volts, 12 volts) be sure to try all the options.  Electrical connections can corrode or vibrate loose and insects may build nests in the propane gas lines and burner.  A build up of dust and debris on the cooling coils may seriously reduce performance or you may discover you need an auxiliary fan on the coils.

A shake down cruise for a boat may include practice transporting and launching the boat as well as seeing how it does out on the water.  Shake down cruises should be designed to exercise the primary functions of the boat.  They will be different for power boats and sailboats, fishing boats and ski boats.  In each case you should plan activities that will let you test all the relevant features and functions of the boat and any onboard equipment  -- and your knowledge and skills and the knowledge and skills of your crew.

A shake down cruise for an OHV should be designed to give a chance to check it out thoroughly in a controlled environment before you take it far out on a trail system.   You might take advantage of some familiar trails near your home or primary staging area.  They shouldn't be excessively difficult or technical but they should provide enough challenging terrain to thoroughly exercise  you and your vehicle.  Things to watch out for include poor accelerator response, bad braking, wheel wobble, rough ride, leaks, and unusual noises.  You want to deal with any problems you encounter during your shake down cruise you should be able to get them resolved before you head out on a "real" outing where  you may find  yourself in a far more difficult situation if the are problems.

Tent camping shakedowns can be done in your own back yard unless you need to test out your vehicle.  It is especially helpful to learn how to setup a new tent before you have to do it under the stress of doing it in camp, possible with adverse winds and weather, and in front of other campers.  It is also a good idea to make sure all the components are there and in good condition while you are where you can get replacements or make repairs before you head out camping.  Checkout your camp stove and lanterns.  Test your sleeping bags and sleeping pads so you can make adjustments before you are totally dependent on them.  I once discovered my favorite 10° bag was useless even at 40° because it had been too tightly rolled in storage for too long and had lost virtually all of the insulating properties of loft.  In most places all there was were two thin pieces of nylon cloth; all the padding had been compressed or squeezed out to nearly nothing.  Unfortunately that happened on an actual outing and I had to make do.  Had I taken the time the check things out beforehand, I would have been able to replace the bag (which I did at the first opportunity) or at least bring along some extra blankets instead of freezing at night.

Make a list of any findings.   Your list might include provisions you need to restock and any additional items or equipment as well as any required repairs and desired updates.

Shakedown cruises are not only a good way to check out your equipment but an important way to make sure you are also ready for using the equipment.  Exercise your skills and test your tools too.  Make sure you have the tools you need for field repairs and know how to use them.  See if your body is physically up to the demands of the activities you want to participate in.  All too often we get soft during the off season and it may take a little time to regain our skills when we start up again.  Pushing things too far too fast is a sure recipe for failure.  Take time to warm up both you and your equipment before going full out.

Shake it up (er, uh, down) baby!

Trailer Brakes

Trailers over a certain size/weight must have brakes.  Virtually all travel trailers are heavy enough that they are required to have brakes.  Some small utility trailers and motorcycle trailers don't have or need them legally, but it is always a good idea to have them.   Tent trailers usually need brakes but a few, ultra-light weight trailers might be exempt in some jurisdictions.  Tow dollies may or may not also be equipped with brakes.  Obviously the weight of any car is enough that you should have brakes on the dolly.  There are basically two kinds of trailer brakes:  electric brakes and surge brakes.

Electric trailer brakes are controlled by a brake controller in the tow vehicle.  The controller is connected to the brake switch so it is activated when the vehicle brakes are applied.  The controller contains a device that measures momentum.  The harder and faster the vehicle decelerates when the brakes are applied, the stronger the application of the trailer brakes.  Controllers typically have adjustments to allow the driver to increase or decrease the sensitivity of the controller to tune the trailer braking.  They also have a control to manually apply the trailer brakes.  The brakes on the trailer are activated by a magnet controlled by the amount of power transmitted from the controller.  The magnet grips the inside face of the brake drum and an attached lever pushes the shoes out against the drum to slow or stop the trailer.  Most larger trailers have electric brakes.  Some advantages to electric trailer brakes is that the sensitivity can be tuned by the driver so the trailer brakes just right, not too much and not too little and the driver can apply the trailer brakes via a button on the controller. 

Surge brakes are self contained on the trailer.   Surge brakes are hydraulic brakes.  The master cylinder is included in the surge brake activator on the trailer tongue.  The activator is designed to apply hydraulic pressure to the braking system when it senses the tow vehicle is slowing down.  What happens is there is some flexibility in the way the activator is mounted on the tongue so that when the vehicle slows down and the trailer pushes forward against the hitch, pressure is applied through the master cylinder to the brakes to slow the trailer.  The main advantage to surge brakes is that they don't need a controller in the tow vehicle.  The main disadvantages are that the driver cannot manually apply the trailer brakes and the driver can't control the sensitivity.

I have used trailers with both types of brakes and quite honestly, have not found any significant differences in normal use.  Surge brakes are pretty much automatic and don't require any tuning by the driver.  On rare occasions I have manually applied electric trailer brakes but that was mostly for testing rather than any normal use.

Trailer brakes have an emergency disconnect that applies the brakes automatically if the trailer gets disconnected from the tow vehicle.   Normally, electric brake systems use the trailer battery to power the brakes if the disconnect switch is activated.  This might work with power supplied via the trailer connector, but will be useless once the connector pulls apart.  The disconnect typically consists of a pin connected to the tow vehicle so that it is pulled out of the switch if the tow vehicle is separated from the trailer.  The pin normally holds the switch open so it closes when the pin is removed, activating the trailer brakes.  Since it is basically an on or off situation, it is likely to lock up the brakes when activated.  On surge brakes, a cable attached to the vehicle typically pulls on a lever on the activator on the trailer tongue if the two become separated and the lever applies the brakes.  Emergency braking helps to  control the trailer if it gets disconnected from the vehicle.  Of course the first line of defense are the safety chains that should keep the two fairly close together and keep the trailer from wandering off by itself.  Long safety chains may allow the emergency brake function to be activated.

Properly adjusted trailer brake systems will apply braking proportional to the tow vehicle braking so both units slow down at the same rate.

If trailer brakes are too tight or too sensitive, the tow vehicle driver should feel the trailer holding the vehicle back, especially when the brakes are applied.  If it holds it back when the brakes have not been applied the trailer brakes are definitely too tight.  If trailer brakes heat up abnormally (hubs and tires get hotter than on the vehicle), the brakes are too tight and need to be backed off to avoid damage to the brakes and tires on the trailer and prevent extra load on the tow vehicle.

If trailer brakes are too loose or not sensitive enough, the vehicle driver should feel the trailer continue to push the vehicle when the brakes are applied and the trailer may kind of "fish tail"or wander when the brakes are applied.

Ideally, the drive won't feel the trailer either holding him back (brakes too tight) or pushing him during slowing and stopping maneuvers (brakes too loose).

Sometimes you can more easily see how the trailer brakes are behaving if you are driving on gravel, sand or dirt so you can see skids marks when the trailer brakes are engaged.  Testing trailer brakes on pavement means you will mostly rely on affect you can feel from the trailer on the tow vehicle when the brakes are applied.  Otherwise you have to apply them harshly enough to lock up the wheels so the tires drag and leave marks on the pavement.  Such violent maneuvers are generally not good for either the trailer or the tow vehicle.

Trailer brakes are adjusted about the same way drum brakes are adjusted on any vehicle.  There is a star wheel between the bottom ends of the brake shoes which is turned to push the shoes out against the drum.  Once the shoes are pushed out enough to keep the wheel from being turned, the star wheel is backed off just enough to let the wheel turn freely.  In my experience I can usually still hear the brake shoes lightly brushing the drum.  If the brakes are adjusted too tight they will drag and overheat.  This diminishes brake performance and life, creates extra tire wear, and can get hot enough to cause a fire.  If the brakes are adjusted too loose, they won't work effectively to slow or stop the trailer when needed.  If you aren't sure you can adjust the brakes correctly, have it done by a mechanic who knows what he is doing.  It may take several trips to the shop to get the brakes adjusted to your satisfaction but a good mechanic can adjust them to where HE thinks they should be and that will be an excellent starting point.

Controller sensitivity on electric brakes is adjusted by a switch on the controller.  It may be a rotating knob or a sliding switch.  Increasing sensitivity makes the trailer brakes come on faster and stronger; decreasing sensitivity makes them respond slower and weaker.  If the trailer seems to be tugging on the tow vehicle when you apply the brakes, the controller is too sensitive.  If the trailer doesn't seem to slow down when you apply the brakes or you can feel it pushing on the tow vehicle, is isn't sensitive enough.  Adjusting sensitivity is largely a trial and error situation.  Ideally you want the trailer braking to match the tow vehicle braking so the two slow down and stop together.

Trailer brakes are inspected by removing the drum and examining and/or measuring the amount of lining on the shoes.  Linings that are thin, cracked, or badly glazed should be replaced.  Grooved drums or drums that show signs of over heating (usually discoloration) should be turned or replaced.  To remove the drum you will have to remove the axle nut and outside wheel bearing.  The axle nut is a castle nut that is prevented from spinning loose by a cotter pin through the notches in the outside of the nut and the axle.  Always discard the used cotter pin and replace it with a new one.  While you have the drum off, inspect the wheel bearings.   If they show signs of rust or wear, replace them.  Clean and repack the wheel bearings before reinstalling the drum.  The outer bearing can be repacked by placing a glob of grease in one hand, then holding the bearing in the other hand and pressing the outer (larger end) edge of the bearing into the grease repeatedly until the grease squished out the small end of the bearing between the rollers.  Work grease all the way around the entire circumference of the bearing.  Repacking the inner bearing can be done in the same way if you can safely remove it.  The inner bearing is held in place by a grease seal that will probably have to be replaced it you remove it to extract the bearing.  You can apply some extra grease to the inner bearing with your fingers, but you won't be able to properly pack grease into the bearing without removing it.  Be sure to force grease into the bearing and not just smear it on the outside.  The axle nut must be properly tightened when reinstalling the drum.  Your owners manual may give you instructions or torque specifications which you should follow.  If you don't have a manual or specifications, snug the nut up until the bearing retainer is tight against the bearing, making sure it doesn't cause the bearing to bind when the wheel is spun.  Then back it off about one or two gaps in the castle nut to install the cotter pin.  If the axle nut is too loose, the wheel will wobble, most likely destroying the bearings, the hub, and the drum.  If it too tight, the bearings will be over stressed and will run hot, thinning out and losing the grease and burning up.  Here again, if you aren't comfortable with your ability to make the right adjustment, have it done by a qualified mechanic.  Some trailers may have specified torque readings for the hub nuts.  Lacking torque specs I usually snug up the nuts, then back them off about 1 notch on the castle nut before installing the cotter pin.

Any fairly good do it yourself back yard mechanic should be able to service trailer brakes.  It is pretty much the same as servicing drum brakes on a car.  There are some special brake tools that make any brake job much easier but it is possible to do it with ordinary hand tools.  In particular, brake pliers are designed to reattach brake springs and while it is possible to remove the clips and springs holding the shoes onto the backing plate using pliers, it is much easier with a tool specially designed for the task.  It has a screwdriver type handle and a dime-sized shallow cone in place of the blade.  The cone fits over the clips on the retaining springs, allowing you to compress the springs and then remove the clip with a turn of the handle.  Another good tool is brake adjusting tool.  I've seen brakes adjusted using a flat screwdriver, but the size and angles of  a brake adjusting tool make it much easier and faster.  Remember, almost any task can almost be fun with the right tools and even the simplest tasks can be a pain in various body parts with the wrong tools.  You usually have a choice of several grades of brake shoes.  Price usually depends on the type of friction material used.  More expensive materials are usually more effective and more durable.  However, if your budget is tight, using standard brake shoes should that match original specifications should be adequate unless you are frequently pushing the maximum load on your trailer or towing it on a lot of mountainous roads.

Stop right!

OHV Tires

OHVs often require special tires, depending on the terrain and riding style.  A common type of tire is an "all terrain" tire, designed to provide pretty good handling and service on most types of terrain the vehicle is designed for.  However, there are specialty tires for special conditions.  One of the most obvious are the "paddle" tires used on dirt bikes, ATVs, and dune buggies that are driven mostly in sand --like on  the beach or in the dunes.  These tires provide a lot better grip in sand than ordinary knobbies.  But you wouldn't want to use them for trail riding.  Riding on hard surfaces will cause premature wear and the paddle design won't provide proper traction for safe operation.  "Trials" tires for dirt bikes are similar to the knobbies used for regular trail riding but have a slightly different tread design and rubber compound that makes them better suited for the unusual traction required for difficult trials maneuvers, like climbing boulders.

OHV tires come in various hardnesses or grades of the rubber.  Which hardness or grade you need will depend on several factors such as the terrain where they'll be used and the weight and riding style of the operator.  Harder tires will last longer but may not have as much grip on some surfaces as softer tires.  There is no easy formula I know of for determining which tires you need.  Finding the right tire for you and your ride is mostly done by trial and error.  You might talk with your fellow riders who ride the same trails you do on similar machines and see what they use and then use that as a starting point.  If you don't like the way your ride feels with a particular tire, try something else.  A tire that is too soft will wear out quickly and may give your ride kind of a squishy feeling on the trail.  Tires that are too hard may make the whole ride feel stiff and maybe even a bit squirrely.  Always check your tire pressure and try adjusting that before spending money to replace tires that are still serviceable.  Under inflation will make the ride mushy and unresponsive; over inflation will make it harsh and skittish.

OHV tire pressures are often very subjective.  As with any tire, don't exceed the maximum pressure on the sidewall.  My dirt bike riding friends and I typically use a "squeeze test" on our dirt bike tires.  Grip the tire between the thumb and fingers and squeeze hard.  I like it when there is just a little give so that my tires aren't too hard nor too soft, but right in the "Goldilocks" zone.  On the other hand, we were meticulous about setting the tire pressure to factory specs on the ATVs and side-by-sides we rented out when I worked as a mechanic at an ATV resort.  If you feel your ride is too hard or you feel every little pebble in the trail or road, you may be running your tire pressure too high and might want to try backing it down a little at a time.  Over inflated tires may also contribute to a feeling of skittishness.  OHV tires don't need to be rock hard.  You may need to lower pressure to gain traction when doing a lot of riding on soft surfaces like mud, sand, or snow.

Keep rollin, rollin,rollin.

RV Tires

RV tires, in general, tend to time out long before they wear out.  Unless you're on the road constantly, like a rock band or something, your RV is probably going to spend more time sitting than it does rolling.  I've often seen RV tires with side-wall cracks bigger than the grooves in the tread, even though the tread was still well within acceptable safety limits.

Speaking of tread wear, an easy way to determine if the tread on you tires is getting too low, is to stick a penny into one of the grooves in the tread with the top of Lincoln's head pressed down into the groove.  If you can see the top of Lincoln's head, your tire needs to be replaced.  If the top of his head is covered, you should still have some miles left on them.

Motorhomes may have specially designed tires but can mostly be fitted with matching truck tires.  Since many motorhomes are built on truck or bus chassis it makes sense that they use truck tires.

Trailers, on the other hand, usually have specially rated tires.  It is possible to substitute truck tires but they won't deliver the same performance as properly rated trailer tires.  Trailer tires are designed for towing.  They typically have stronger side walls and thicker tread in the middle to better handle heavy loads.  Using ordinary truck tires risks premature failure.

Sunlight and ozone are two factors that are very hard on tires.   Simply putting tire covers on your RV can significantly extend the life of your tires.  Keeping your RV in covered storage also helps a bunch.  I've heard that parking it under or near high voltage power lines can speed tire deterioration because of an increase in ozone generated by the power lines.  Properly cleaning and treating tires will also help prevent premature degradation.  Side-wall cracking is the result of the rubber drying out.  Clean, properly protected tires won't dry out as fast and some tire treatments may actually help replenish lost chemicals that protect the rubber.  I had one tire guy suggest using brake fluid to protect tires, but I'm afraid it would attract dust and dirt.   I saw a guy on YouTube suggest wiping them down with old motor oil, which I find to be a particularly bad idea.  Oil will damage rubber.  Commercial "tire shine" products should contain UV blockers and other substances that protect the tires without leaving a sticky residue.  I sometimes use the same SC-1 detailing spray I use on my dirt bikes on my tires to give them a nice shine and layer of protection.  When tires are in use the flexing of the rubber helps distribute the internal chemicals that keep them from drying out so taking your RV and driving it for a few miles every month when isn't in regular use will actually improve tire life.

When your RV is in extended storage the tires should be insulated from the ground.  Park on wood planks or plastic leveling blocks.  Parking on gravel or concrete is better than parking on bare dirt, but it is even better to put something between the rubber and the road.  Some folks recommend even jacking up the vehicle and taking the load off the tires.  That certainly won't hurt the tires, but it is a lot of work and, if not done properly, could create an unstable and unsafe condition.  Just driving in up on some pieces of wood is easy, inexpensive, and doesn't affect stability.

Improper inflation and poor wheel alignment are two of the worst things you can do for you tires.  Under inflated tires will wear on the edges and run hot, wearing out faster and significantly increasing the chance of a blowout.  They may also make the vehicle feel sluggish and the ride mushy.  Over inflated tires will wear in the middle and will reduce traction, often making the vehicle steering "skittish" to the point of being unsafe.  Over inflated tires will also contribute to a rough ride. A vehicle with over inflated tires will be much more susceptible to wind and to the "blow by" from passing trucks.  Proper tire inflation will also help maximize fuel economy.  Poor alignment will cause tires to wear unevenly.  Too much "toe in"will wear the outside tread of the tire.  Too little will wear the inside tread.  Another thing to watch for is proper balancing.  An unbalanced tire will develop high and low spots as it wears and you will feel the bouncing in the ride and through the steering wheel.

Really proper tire inflation is more than just inflating tires to the max pressure indicated on the sidewall.  The best way to set inflation is to weigh each corner of your RV with it fully loaded the way you use it, then look up the correct inflation in inflation tables based on the weight on each tire.  If you aren't able to use this method, check the owner's manual or the ID sticker for the manufacturer's recommended tire pressure.  If you don't have an owner's manual or ID sticker, use the pressure indicated on the sidewall as a starting point.  The pressure on the sidewall is the MAXIMUM recommended pressure.  Exceeding that pressure, even if the tire looks low, is risking a blow-out.  Sometimes inflating to the maximum sidewall pressure will over inflate the tires for the load.

Keep rollin, rollin, rollin!

Tent Flooring

Most tents these days, except pup tents and military "shelter halves", have sewn in floors.  Having a sewn in floor helps maintain the shape of the footprint of the tent and prevents drafts and critters from slithering inside when the door is zipped closed.  However, tent floors are generally not very sturdy nor completely waterproof so you always benefit from using a good ground cloth beneath your tent.  I like to use one inside my tent too.  A ground cloth beneath your tent will help protect the floor from debris and moisture.  One inside the tent helps protect the floor from damage from walking on it or setting heavy objects on it and gives you and your sleeping bags extra protection against ground moisture.  I've seen oversize outside ground cloths carelessly installed such that moisture dripping of the tent was caught on the top of the ground cloth and ran under the tent, largely defeating one of its major purposes.  If you use a ground cloth beneath your tent, make sure it doesn't extend beyond the tent walls.  One common practice among tent campers is to dig a small trench around the outside of the tent to collect any water that runs off, but that isn't always practical.  You won't want to trench around your tent when it is pitched on your lawn or the grass in a campground.

Many tents have floors made of the same light weight material as the walls and roof.  That might be good in a back packing tent where weight is a primary concern, but for larger family tents used for car camping having a sturdier floor will usually yield better protection and last longer, if you can find one with a sturdier floor.   Some tents do have sturdier "bath tub"floors.  Some I have seen appear to be better at retaining water that leaks through the tent than in keeping ground water out!   For the most part you'll still need to add ground cloths to get the extra protection you need.

Most dome tents have built in floors.  Some larger cabin tents might not.  Regardless of what kind of floor, if any, your tent has, you will want to put down a ground cloth under your tent.  If it has a sewn in floor the ground cloth will protect the fabric from being damaged by rocks, twigs, and other debris.  If it doesn't have a floor at all, the ground cloth becomes the floor.  I like to use two ground cloths -- one under the tent to protect the floor from debris and one inside the tent to protect the floor from walking on it.  Having two ground cloths also helps prevent any moisture from coming through and soaking your sleeping bags or clothing and equipment left on the tent floor.

No matter what kind of floor, if any, your tent has, you'll want to prepare the ground before you set up your tent.  Remove rocks, twigs, and other debris that might damage the tent or be uncomfortable to walk on or sleep on.  A leaf rake with a collapsible handle is a good tool for clearing the ground.  You might need a shovel to smooth out lumps in the dirt.  Try to avoid damp places that will let moisture accumulate under your tent or seep inside.  An ideal spot for a tent would be one that is a few inches higher than the surrounding ground so that rain or dew will drain away and not under the tent.  Grassy areas make a soft pad beneath your tent, but leaving a tent set up on grass for more than a day or so will kill the grass underneath it.  Sometimes you will notice the grass is wilted and starting to turn yellow after taking down a tent that has only been set up for a few hours.  Grass itself contains moisture that can condense on the underside of the tent floor and might wick through.

For a really luxurious tent floor cover the floor with foam "anti-fatigue" foam tiles like are normally used in front of a workbench.  They come in 2'x2' squares, are about 1/2" thick, and connect together like pieces of a jig saw puzzle.    They usually come in sets of 4 so yo may need multiple sets to cover the entire tent floor.  For example, you'll need 10 sets of 4 to cover the entire floor of an 8'x10' tent.  That could cost around $75 but if you watch for sales at home centers or Harbor Freight you and sometimes get them for $5-10 a set, bringing the cost down to as little as $50.  They will protect the floor, give an extra buffer against cold, damp ground, and provide extra padding for sleeping comfort.  You could use them beneath your tent to protect the floor from debris on the ground but I prefer using them inside where they protect the floor from items in the tent poking through.  Having them inside also keeps them cleaner, making it easier to pack them up and use them again.  Here is what to look for in your favorite home center:
 
If you don't care for the industrial look of the standard gray-black mats you can usually find brightly colored ones at home centers.  You might pay a little more for them but they will not look so industrial and might be more fun to use.



If your tent isn't an even multiple of 2' in any direction they can be easily cut to size.  They are light weight but a little bit bulky.  You won't want to take them back packing, but they can add level of comfort in base camp and when car camping. Here are some examples of the standard industrial grey/black color and brightly colored versions you can usually find at home centers.  You'll pay a little more for the colored ones, but the mood boosting contribution of the colors may be well worth the additional cost, especially if your spouse has a penchant for color coordination or interior decorating.

As in the colored tiles above, sometimes the foam tiles have straight finished edges but many have interlocking nubs all around like the grey tiles in the picture above the colored tiles.  Sometimes they come with edges that lock into the nubs to give a finished straight edge.  If not, you can still use them as-is or cut the nubs off the outside edges.

Just about any tarp can be used as a ground cloth outside or inside the tent for an extra layer of protection.  The heavier the tarp, the more protection.  A sturdy canvas tarp will provide stronger resistance to damage from rocks or sticks beneath the tent, but may be heavier to carry and stiffer to lay out.  Light weight blue "poly tarps" are better than nothing, but the heavier silver tarps or green "farm" tarps will be sturdier and last longer.  Try to match the size as closely as possible to the footprint of the tent.  If it is too large it can be folded under so it doesn't trap moisture running down the sides of the tent.  If it is too small you may have exposed edges where debris can still damage your tent floor and expose you and your equipment to the cold, camp ground. One that is just an inch or so smaller than the base of the tent should be just about right.

More on ground cloths.  The sturdier the material, the better.  Light weight "poly" tarps are inexpensive and are definitely better than nothing, but a heavier, canvas tarp will provide more protection.  When putting a ground cloth beneath your tent make sure it doesn't extend beyond the edges of the tent.  If it does, rain or dew dripping off the tent will collect on top of the ground cloth under your tent effectively negating one of the main purposes for using a ground cloth.  As I mentioned before, I like to use a second ground cloth inside my tent to ensure my sleeping bags and other gear stays dry.  It will also protect the sewn in floor against damage from walking on it and from items dropped on it.   If you have one heavy tarp and one light one, use the heavy one beneath the tent and the lighter one inside.  If you're camped where it won't damage the grass, dig a shallow trench around the outside of your tent to catch any moisture that runs off and channel it away so it doesn't seep under your tent.

Keeping the floor clean.  You can minimize damage from walking on your tent floor by keep it clean.  Tracking mud and other debris inside deposits stuff that can grind into the fabric and cut the fibers.  Use a rug or an old burlap bag outside the door to clean your feet before entering.  Sweep out your tent at least daily.  When I'm using a dome tent, I usually pick it up and shake out all the dirt when I get up each morning unless it is staked down.  If you have a cabin tent or your dome tent is securely staked down, sweep it out.  There are small "camping" brooms made just for the purpose or you can cut down a regular broom or use a whisk broom.  The shorter handle is usually necessary because of limited height inside smaller tents and it makes it easier to transport it.  Whisk brooms or shop bench brushes can also be used but will require a lot more bending over, which can be hard on your back.

Floor it!

RV Flooring

You will find lots of different types of flooring in RVs.  For many years most motorhomes were mostly carpeted throughout.  While this provides extra insulation to keep the floor cool in summer and warm in winter and helps suppress road noise, carpet isn't always the optimal floor covering in galley and bathroom areas where it can become easily (and often permanently) soiled and stained.  Light weight laminate flooring and vinyl are good options for these areas.  Some high end RVs are even opting for ceramic tile.  Sure, it looks very good and adds a touch of class, but it is quite heavy and brittle.  I haven't seen enough of it yet to decide how it will stand up to the stress of vibration and tweaking during travel.  Vinyl and laminates are flexible enough that it isn't a problem.

If you have worn or faded carpeting in your RV, you can replace it.  You may want to have it professionally installed to ensure it is properly stretched so it fits snugly although you may be able to fit it your self in small areas.  If your carpet is still in fairly good shape but merely stained or faded or you want to change the color, you may be able to have it dyed.  If you end up replacing your carpet, you may want to consider whether you still want carpet throughout the RV or if you'd like to switch to vinyl or laminate in the kitchen and bathroom areas.  You will probably want to retain the carpet in the bedroom and over the engine compartment where it provides extra insulation against both engine noise and heat.  Carpet in the entry and main traffic lanes can be be hard to keep clean, but, if you switch from carpet to a hard surface flooring in the main aisle you may have to deal with cold floors during the cooler months and might have increased road noise.  If you really want the easier-to-clean floors, consider adding insulation under the flooring to mitigate these temperature and noise problems.  

Old carpet is one of the most obvious features that make an RV appear dated.   Replacing it with a more modern floor covering or even a more up to date carpet pattern will do wonders to make your RV appear newer and could even improve its appeal and resale value to future buyers should you decide to sell it.

If you have hard surface floors that get uncomfortably cold on cooler nights, you can always add rugs or runners as a buffer for bare feet.  Rugs and runners have an advantage over permanently installed carpet in that you can remove them as needed for cleaning or roll them up when you don't need them.  Runners and area rugs can be used over carpet too, to help keep it clean and they can be removed and cleaned as needed.  They are usually less expensive to replace than carpet if they do get soiled or worn.

RV floors are one of the common places you may find dry rot.  I've always found it interesting that dry rot is caused by wetness.   A plumbing leak or a leak around a vent, door, or window, or even a long term drip from an ice chest can allow water to seep under the flooring where it rots the sub-floor.  The primary symptom of this type of damage are areas where the floor feels spongy when you walk on it.  There may also be a musty odor that is difficult to get rid of.  If  you suspect you have damaged sub-floor you will need to remove the flooring and inspect the underlayment.  Any rotted or damaged sections should be carefully cut out and replaced before reinstalling the flooring.  Depending on how long the leak has been around, the damage may be limited to the underlayment or could have affected structural components like joists below.  When repairing this kind of water damage always replaced ALL the damaged components.  For my money, I would replace anything that is even in doubt to avoid having to do it all again before too long.  Anytime you have the floor open is a good time to assess the insulation and perhaps increase it for more comfort and better temperature and sound control inside your RV.

Protect your RV floors from premature wear by keeping them clean.  Use an awning mat or at least a welcome mat to trap mud and dirt before you track it inside.  A handy "rug" to wipe your feet on is an old burlap bag.  It's cheap and its coarse material helps scrape off stubborn deposits and you can hose if off or even toss in the the washer between trips to keep it clean and functional.  Sweep and/or vacuum floors often to remove loose grit that can scratch hard surface and actually cut off carpet fibers.   Clean up spills quickly so they don't stain flooring or seep beneath it.

Keep all your floors clean to avoid premature wear and tear.  Grime and grit quickly dull shiny floors and grit will cut the fibers in carpet.  Hard surfaces can be swept with a broom or dust mop and wet-mopped as necessary.  Carpets need to be thoroughly vacuumed on a regular basis.  Large upright vacuum cleaners don't always fit well in RVs.  Use a canister vac or a small, cordless unit in camp and do a thorough cleaning with the upright when you get home from every trip.  BTW, a learned from a vacuum cleaner salesman that moving the vacuum head quickly over carpet does a better job of getting out the grit than going slowly.

Don't be floored by flooring!