Finish The Job

Given the myriad tasks associated with various aspects of camping it is all too easy to get distracted and jump from task to task without getting anything completely done.  However, doing so wastes time and often introduces opportunities for parts to get lost or misplaced or for additional damage to occur to equipment under repair.  If we aren't careful, we end up with dozens of partly done tasks and nothing completed!

Cleaning up a campsite at the end of an outing is all too often ignored.  People who are ordinarily quite tidy sometimes become careless when camping.  Don't be one of them.  First of all, control your trash through out your stay so your campsite is always neat and clean.  It will be a lot more enjoyable and cleaning up when you leave won't be a big job.  So finishing the job at the end of an outing means cleaning up after yourself as well as packing up and going home.  I was once very amused by a clever forest ranger who collected a large box of identifiable trash left behind by particular family.  He sent them a letter advising them the had left something behind and it would be arriving C.O.D.  Thinking it might have been something valuable, the family paid the C.O.D. charges and accepted the package.  I would loved to have seen their faces when they found the box filled with the trash they left behind instead of the valuables they expected to find!

Organize your time and resources to make best use of both.  Start by making a list of all the tasks you need to get done.  Then group similar or related tasks together so you can combine the use of tools and materials when possible.  I like to start with tasks that I'm sure I have the time, the materials, and the knowledge to complete without interruption.   If you jump into something you don't understand, you may very well discover you don't have the tools or the materials or the time to complete the task.  That means setting it aside while you you obtain the necessary items and that is often when things get lost or damaged.  Given a list of things you can do, start with the easiest task first.  It is usually easier to "get going" if the task isn't too daunting. S uccessfully completing a task helps boost your confidence and give you momentum for the remaining tasks.  Once you have completed the easiest task from your original list, pick the easiest task from the remaining list. Starting on a very difficult task can be discouraging and, if you run into problems, may suck up ALL the time you have and you may end up not getting ANYTHING done.

Complete each task before starting a new one.   That means cleaning up any mess you've made and putting away the tools you used.  If you know for sure you're going to use specific tools on the next task, its OK to move them to the next work area, but don't leave them lying around at the end of a task.  Tools left out tend to get lost.   I'd rather spend a few minutes putting things away where they belong so I can find them when I need them next rather than come looking for them during the next task.  It is way too easy to ignore little things, like sweeping up sawdust and disposing of trash.   Don't allow yourself to fall into that trap.   Those little things accumulate and before you know it, you have a whole new list of tasks.  I believe most of us have enough things to do that we don't need to make unnecessary work for ourselves.

When you have a list of things to do, stick to the list and finish each task in turn.  It is all to common to start on a task and get distracted and go do something else.  This is a bad habit to get into.  It quickly escalates.  You go off to do the thing that distracted you and get distracted again.  When you allow yourself to fall into this trap, you can use up all the time you have to get things done and find that you haven't gotten anything done!  You need to start with a reasonable list and stick to the list.  If you allow yourself to get distracted, even once, you have set a pattern that will likely repeat itself ad infinitum.  If you discover additional tasks that need to be done, add them to the list rather than running after them and losing your momentum on completing the tasks on your original list.

One of the greatest risks of not completing a task once you've started it is that it may never get done.  Having done "most of it" you may mentally cross it off your list or you may simply forget what remained to be completed.  If it is interrupted due to lack of tools or parts, it may be some time before your get what you need to finish the job.  By then you may have a whole new list of things to do.  All too often, parts or tools you need will disappear by the time you get around to completing the job, adding a lot of unnecessary frustrating and additional delay and expense.  It is very frustrating and a great time waster when you return to a delayed task and discover you don't remember where you were, where  you put things, or what you needed to do next!

With modern cell phone technology we can easily take photos of our projects.  "Before" photos can be very helpful when attempting to complete a delayed project.  If you must delay a project, document where things are and what remains to be done, including photos if practical.

There's nothing worse than getting to the end of the day and looking back on having accomplished nothing.  On the other hand, it is very satisfying to be able to cross off the list of things you got done and look back on a job well done!

Get 'er done!

Campfires In/On Snow

Why would anyone want to build a campfire in the snow?  To get warm of course.   But why not just go inside where it is warm instead of sitting out there in the snow?   Some people enjoy snow camping and other winter sports like snowmobiling, skiing, snow boarding and ice fishing but most campers wouldn't consider snow an asset.   Alternatively, you might get an unexpected snow storm during a camping trip or you might find your self in a disaster situation in the winter.  In any case, if you're out in the snow, a nice warm fire on a snowy day will no doubt be a welcome sight, perhaps the high light of your day.  In a winter disaster, it might even be life saving.  But there are some special circumstances you need to consider when building a fire in or on snow.

First, if you build you fire on top of packed snow, the heat will melt the snow beneath and around the fire.   If the snow isn't very deep that won't be too much of a problem.  But, if you are on deep snow pack, your fire will sink into the snow and drown in melting snow.   Dig down to the earth below, or, if the snow pack is too deep for that, build a platform of rocks or green logs on top of the snow and use that as a foundation for your fire.  If you must use logs, use large, green log to reduce the chance of them becoming additional fuel for the fire.  Wet logs pulled from a stream or lake would be even less likely to ignite.  An even better solution is a metal pan of some sort, like an old car hood or a large water trough or wash tub, if you can scare one up.  The heat from the fire will probably at least partially melt the snow for several feet around the fire, even if it is on a metal pad, turning into a slush pit.  You may need to add some rocks, branches, or chunks of firewood around your fire pit to serve as stepping stones to keep your feet out of the the slush.

Your second major concern is building a fire under trees.   It is always nice to have as much overhead protection from the elements as we can get when we're camping- shade in summer, protection from rain and snow in other seasons.  But building a fire under snow-covered trees is an invitation to failure and nasty surprises.   As heat rises from the fire it will melt and loosen snow accumulated in the branches.  The snow then falls on you and/or your fire, neither of which contributes to your comfort or the success of your fire.  Try to find a spot where there isn't very much snow overhead or get a long branch and try to knock down as much snow before you set up your fire.

Portable fire pits, like my favorite "R2D2" (which is an old washing machine tub), can be used, but unless they are set up on rocks or logs they too will melt into the snow like an open fire, but maybe not as fast.  Using a portable metal fire pit will reduce the chance of your fire igniting a log platform.  I have a leg I can use on my "R2D2" to raise it about 4-6" off the ground.   I haven't tried using it on snowpack, but I expect the heat from the fire will still melt snow beneath the unit since it makes a very good "toe toaster" to get your feet warm, which is one reason I built the leg in the first place.  I have used it with snow all around it and it quickly melted all the snow with about a foot or so of the tub.  My "R2D2" is an old washing machine tub with a center pipe for the agitator.   The center pipe gets in the way of adding large pieces of wood, but it provides a sleeve where I can insert a cut down RV table leg which then fits into a commercially available RV table tripod to lift it a few inches off the ground.  A piece of pipe fastened to an 18" BBQ grill inserted in the top turns the whole thing into a convenient cooking appliance.

If your firewood is exposed to the snow, make sure you brush off as much snow as you can before adding it to your fire.  Large clumps of snow falling from armloads of new but snowy firewood might put your fire out or at least dampen it.   Keep your firewood protected if you can.  Store it in or under a vehicle or cover it with a tarp to keep it out of rain and snow.  Snow on firewood will melt quickly and make it harder for newly added wood to light.  If there is enough snow it can at least partially put out your fire!

On particularly cold days you might want to build more than one fire so you can warm both sides of your body at the same time.  Building a really big fire still only warms one side of your body while it wastes fuel and probably creates unnecessary slush and air pollution.  A couple of smaller fires, or a ring of smaller fires, might work better at keeping you and your companions warm.  Keep an eye on the area between fires as the combined heat will take its toll on the snow and you may soon be sitting or standing in cold puddles.   Overnight those cold puddles will freeze and you could have a serious slip/fall hazard.

Heat from campfires may melt surrounding snow and frozen ground, making it slushy or muddy near the fire.  About all you can do about this is put down something to walk on, find a better place for your fire -- or give up on your fire.  An ideal place to build a fire is on exposed rock, but you can't always find rocky outcroppings.   If you put down something to walk on, try to find something that isn't easily combustible.  Do not use straw, hay, dry grass, or dry pine boughs or anything else that could be easily ignited by sparks or embers from the fire.  If the snow around your fire is deep enough, you could get enough run off from melting snow to drown your fire in addition to making a cold, nasty mess to stand in near your fire.

If it is actively snowing, you will probably want to build a bigger fire than you normally would. Falling snow will have a dampening affect on your fire and you'll need a bigger fire to compensate. Of course, if it is actively snowing, you'll probably want to find shelter from the storm instead of standing out in it around an open campfire.  In this case, you may want to build a large fire in front of a cave, lean to, or other open shelter with a reflector behind it so you can benefit from the heat yet stay out of the falling snow.  Be careful about building a fire in a cave.  Depending on wind direction and speed you may get a lot of smoke inside the cave or the fire may use up your oxygen.  The heat from the fire may cause the rocks that make up the cave to crack as they warm up and conflict with the cold around them.  This could cause pieces to break off and fall on you or could even cause a cave-in!  If you hear cracking sounds in the rock, bank your fire and get out of the cave before it starts to fall on you.  A safer way to heat a cave is to build a fire outside with a reflecting wall behind it so you get some warmth inside for your comfort without stressing the structure itself.  You might also heat some soccer ball sized stones in the fire and roll them into your shelter to serve as radiators to warm the interior.  Just make sure they aren't against anything combustible.  Smaller, softball sized stones make good foot warmers in you sleeping bag too.  Be extra careful putting hot rocks into tents or sleeping bags.  If they are TOO hot they may scorch, burn or even set the tent or sleeping bag on fire!

Heat from your fire may turn snow on your clothing into water.  A lot of winter clothing that is very warm in the snow isn't necessarily waterproof, so melting snow may quickly cause your once warm winter clothes to get soaked and you'll soon be freezing.   Melting that snow into your coat will quickly defeat the benefits of being close to a fire.  You may need to use the fire to dry out your clothes after it has melted the snow and gotten them wet.  It is a good idea to bring along alternate clothing so you have something dry to change into if you get wet.  Try to brush snow off your clothes before it has time to melt or find some shelter to keep snow off your clothes.  Brush off as much snow as you can before you approach your fire or go into a warm place.

Stay warm!

Snow Loads

This time of the year (December) seems like a good time to talk about snow loads.   I am not talking about the questionable stories told around campfires although there are usually plenty of that!   Snow loads you need to be concerned about would be the weight of snow on the roof of your RV, on your tent, (if you go winter camping or store your RV outside) or on a storage area for your RV or camping equipment.  Of course, if you live or winter in the sunbelt, you don't have to worry about snow or snow loads.  Snow loads on residential buildings are usually taken into consideration in the design and construction but if you get an unusually large amount of snow for your area they may be of some concern.

Water weights about 8 lbs per gallon and there is about 7.5 gallons of water in a cubic foot, making water around 62 lbs per cubic foot.   Snow is frozen water.  The weight of snow varies a lot, depending on whether it is light and fluffy, wet, or packed.  Light, fluffy snow may be around 7 lbs per cubic foot.  More average snow is around 15 lbs per cubic foot but drifted and compacted snow can easily hit 20 lbs. That means a foot of light fluffy snow on the roof of your RV will weigh about 7 lbs on each square foot of roof.   Wet or packed snow could weight 20 lbs per foot. What does that mean?  Assume you have modest, 25' RV. With a width of about 8', that's 200 square feet.   Just fluffy snow a foot deep over the whole area would weigh 1400 pounds!!  Drifted and compacted snow could put 2 tons (4000 lbs) of weight on your roof!  Not only might that begin to stress the structural integrity of the roof itself, it could put pressure on other components from load bearing walls to suspension and tires.  Imagine driving with 2 tons of extra weight up that high!   That would significantly raise the center of gravity, screw up handling, and increase the risk of roll over.   I estimated the weight of snow on the roof of my 11 1/2' slide-in camper at more than 1200#  resulting in some saved in roof panels before I could shovel it off.  I've heard of snow build up in mountain areas sufficient to pop the tires on travel trailers left out in the winter weather.

If your RV is stored in a shed, carport, or garage, the RV should be safe but the snow load on the structure may be of some concern.  If the weight exceeds the roof capacity, the whole thing could come crashing down on your RV.   So even if your RV is normally protected against the elements, you will want to monitor the accumulation of snow on the roof of your storage facility and may need to take steps to remove the snow periodically.  Steep roofs, like those on alpine structures, allow snow to slip off, but lesser slopes, quite common on garages, barns, sheds and carports, can allow significant snow accumulation and you may have to manually remove it to prevent damage.  Walmart ran into some problems when they built stores in the snow belt along the East Coast based on the same flat roof design they used in Arizona and California where they didn't have to worry about snow.

Clearing snow from your RV roof can be kind of tricky.  The best way to do it is from a sturdy ladder alongside your RV.  Climbing up on the roof subjects you to many hazards.  The obstacles (vents, lights, antennas, racks, etc.) may be hidden in the snow.  You may damage them inadvertently trying to shovel or sweep the snow off the roof.  Or you might trip over them and fall.  That snowy RV roof is also very slippery.  It is a long way to the ground and even if you land in soft snow, its going to hurt!  For added stability, have someone steady the ladder.  If you don't have someone to steady the ladder, never put an A-frame ladder so the steps are perpendicular to the side of your RV. Your efforts to push the snow off the roof may push the ladder over.   Place it so the steps are parallel to the side of the unit or lean it against the RV for maximum stability.  You still need to exercise caution because you could push yourself off the ladder, but at least the ladder will be less likely to tip and dump you on the ground.   Another tip: don't wait for the snow to get too deep before clearing it off.  You can sweep 3-4" of snow off the roof with a broom unless it is excessively wet or has partially melted and frozen to the surface.  Deeper amounts become harder to remove, requiring more effort and increasing the risk of a nasty fall or damaging components buried in the snow.   Removing it quickly also reduces the chances of it freezing to the roof surface.   Clear snow after each storm. Letting it sit will give a chance to get solid and to stick to the roof.  Plus, the accumulation from the next storm will add a lot of weight.  Even it it doesn't do any major structural damage, it may begin to cave in the roof between the rafters and loosen seams. If you live where you get 1 foot or more of snow at at time and your RV is left outside, consider laying plywood or OSB panels on the roof.  It will more evenly distribute the load and give you something to scrape the snow off of instead of running the risk of damaging your roof itself.   Rubber and fiberglass roofs may crack when you walk on them it it gets cold enough.   Metal roofs won't crack but you may loosen the seams.  Try not to walk on the unsupported spaces between the seams of a metal roof.  Doing so can cave in the roof and separate the seams.

Snow can sometimes get deep enough on other vehicle roofs to cave them in.  The smaller area, somewhat curved shape, and closely spaced supports beneath the roof of most cars and trucks makes them less susceptible than RV roofs, but it can still happen.   And, of course, if you don't clear the snow you have to contend with the added weight and shift of center of gravity, neither of which improve handling on slick roads.  For example, a foot of snow on a 4'x4' pickup roof could weigh from 100 to 300 pounds.   Besides that, deep accumulations on the roof can dislodge and impair visibility while driving, so brush the snow off your vehicle roof before hitting the road.  Snow blowing off your vehicle could be considered an unsafe load and you could be held liable for damages if it causes an accident.

Snow can accumulate on tents when you're winter camping, quickly exceeding the load rating of the poles and the fabric.  Once again, your best bet is to remove the snow as quickly as possible to avoid damage.  It would definitely not be nice to have your tent collapse on you and bury you in a foot or more of snow!  In addition to the threat of being crushed or at least bruised by the collapsing snow load, damaged tent poles could become spears that inflict serious injury.  Sometimes you can simply slap the tent from the inside from time to time to knock the snow off before it gets too thick.   If you allow a couple of inches of snow to accumulate, there is a strong possibility that warmth from inside the tent will melt the snow next to the fabric and then cold outside temperatures and dropping temperatures inside will cause it to freeze, binding the snow tightly to your tent and making it very difficult to remove.   Brush off as much snow as you can with a brush, broom, or pine bough, then bang the inside of the tent to loosen any ice.  It may be very difficult to monitor snow accumulation at night, especially if you're lucky enough to be able to sleep during the storm.  Any shelter you can make use of to reduce the snow accumulation will help.   Be very cautious about setting up your tent under trees.  Snow will accumulate in the branches and may be dislodged and fall on your tent -- or you! -- with disastrous results.  Snow may be knocked loose by wind, by its own weight, or loosened by heat rising from a stove or campfire, or maybe even from your own body heat escaping from your tent.  Double wall tents will generally fare better in snowy conditions but you'll still need to keep the rain fly cleared of snow.  Using a tarp over any tent and then frequently shaking the snow off of it is a fairly easy way to avoid snow accumulation.

Boats stored outside are also subject to snow loading.  You will want to monitor snow build up on your boat or boat cover and clear it off before it causes any damage.

Snow drifts are created by the wind shifting snow around.  Snow is picked up by strong winds and deposited wherever there is a windbreak that slows the wind.   Drifted snow can be very beautiful, almost like it had been sculpted by an artist, but drifts can also present significant vehicle hazards. I've seen 4WD vehicles stuck in the snow because it was deep enough that the vehicle undercarriage "floated" on the snow and couldn't get any traction.  Hitting a deep drift at any significant speed can be about like running into a brick wall.  Snow drifts do have one good quality:   they make a good source for cutting snow blocks to build an igloo or a good place to dig a snow cave or snow trench for shelter in a survival situation.

If you're going to be staying in the snow for more than a day or so, without heat, it might be better to build an igloo than to stay in your tent.  A foot of snow provides as much insulation against the outside temperatures as the R-13 fiberglass insulation in the walls of your home.   Building an igloo is not easy and it may take several tries before you can get the right shaped dome to be self sustaining.  Even Les Stroud (Survivorman) had trouble.  You need pretty well packed snow for your building blocks.  If the snow is loose or not deep enough to cut building blocks, you may be able to build an igloo by rolling basket-ball sized snow balls and stacking them in the shape of a dome.  Pack snow between the balls to create a solid dome large enough for you and your companions.  Then cut some sticks about 2' long and push them into the dome all over about 8-12" apart.   Then dig into the dome and hollow it out until you reach the ends of the sticks.   Make your opening on the downwind side of your igloo.  Hang a heavy blanket over the "door" or roll a snowball big enough to close it off. You will want to leave some ventilation so you don't suffocate but you don't want any strong breezes getting in.  If you use any kind of combustion inside for heat or light you should make a small opening toward the top of the dome to allow smoke and fumes to escape.   The opening should be a little on the downwind side of the roof so wind doesn't drive snow and cold air into it and the wind passing over it will help draw bad air out. You'll also need at least one low vent (usually the entrance) to allow fresh air to enter.

Like most situations in life, surviving a snow storm can be done -- if you are properly prepared and take appropriate measures to protect yourself and your family and equipment.

Let it snow!

RV Winter Maintenance

It would be nice if we could just park our RVs and OHVs and forget about them during winter storage.   Some people do, but they usually pay the price, especially if they live in a cold climate. There are several things you need to do and to monitor to ensure your RV is safe and remains in good condition.

Proper preparation for winter storage (winterizing) is the first step.  We've gone over that in this blog a couple of times already.  The main concern is making sure your plumbing doesn't freeze. Protect tires with tire covers and by parking on wooden "pads" to keep off cold concrete and out of freezing mud.

Some RV insurance plans, like Good Sam, offer a discount while your RV is in storage.   If you have such a plan, be sure to call your insurance company and let them know as soon as you park your RV for the winter so you get maximum savings.

If your RV is a motorhome, you should run the engine about an hour every month.  If possible, take it for a drive.  Driving it helps to circulate lubricants and flex tires to maintain pliability and bring chemicals to the surface to prevent side wall cracking in addition to lubricating the moving parts.  It also gives you a chance to watch for oil and coolant leaks and listen for any other developing problems.  If your insurance allows you a storage option, driving it may not be feasible since your insurance would not be in effect, but starting and running the engine will help maintain the charge on your batteries and circulate fluids.  Most motorhomes have automatic transmissions.  Shifting through all the gears a few times if you can't drive it will help circulate transmission fluid and keep seals from drying out.

Towing your trailer a few miles each month (weather permitting) will exercise the tires and distribute wheel bearing grease.  Listen for any unusual noises and put your hand on the hubs after driving to see if the wheel bearings are overheating.  Some warmth is normal but if any one hub is noticeably hotter than the others it may be dry or damaged and should be removed, inspected and serviced.   Damaged bearings need to be replaced.  Check for proper brake operation each time you drive.  It is also a good idea to check all of the trailer running lights (park lights, brakes, turn signals, and clearance lights) while it is hooked up since insects or rodents sometimes chew on wires and can cause them to short out or humidity and temperature changes may induce corrosion.

Inspect the exterior, especially if it is parked outside where falling or blowing debris might damage it.   Sometimes just changes in temperature can crack glass.  If possible rinse off accumulated dust every couple of weeks or so to protect the clear coat present on many paint jobs.  Dust will trap UV rays within the clear coat and accelerate deterioration.   If you get snow, be sure to monitor accumulation and sweep it off the roof before it builds up deep enough to damage the roof or any of the components up there (storage pods, ACs, vents, antennas, etc.).

Check the interior of your RV periodically, about once a month should be sufficient under normal circumstances, more frequently if you experience extreme weather.   Look for any signs of water, insect, or rodent damage.  Also double check provisions to make sure you didn't leave something on board that was damaged by freezing temperatures or has been attacked by vermin.  See if you need to replace the dehumidifier.  If it is full of water, toss it out and open a new one.

Vandalism is sometimes a problem in RVs in storage.  I've seen units stored at the owner's home vandalized, even with the owner at home.  Storage yards do what they can to ensure the safety of your vehicles, but sometimes people with malicious intent will circumvent security measures and wreak havoc on unattended vehicles.  While your options for physically protecting your vehicle from vandalism may be limited, regular inspection will at least let you detect problems as early as possible. Timely reporting may assist law enforcement in apprehending the culprits and comply with insurance requirements and timely repairs will prevent further damage from bad weather if the integrity of the outer shell has been compromised.

Check your batteries.   Always wear rubber gloves and eye protection when handling lead acid batteries.   If you haven't removed the batteries for storage in a warmer place, check both the charge status and the electrolyte level.  Check the charge status with a volt meter or by testing the specific gravity of the fluid.  A fully charged battery should register about 12.6 volts (half that on each 6 volt golf cart battery) or 1.265 specific gravity using a hydrometer.   Some battery hydrometers use colored balls to indicate charge state instead of a graduated scale.  If you find the electrolyte is low, add only distilled water.  If the temperature is below freezing you'll need to mix the added water to prevent it from freezing.  After you put the caps on, rock the battery or, better yet, take the unit for a hour's ride to charge the batteries and mix the water into the electrolyte.  If you can't take it out, put a charger on the batteries for an hour to help mix the contents.  If the voltage or specific gravity is low, charge the batteries back to full charge to avoid having them freeze.  Fully charged batteries are freeze-protected down to -75°F.  Fully discharged batteries will freeze at just -10°F.   If you have your batteries on an automatic battery tender, they should maintain their charge all winter, as long as the electrolyte doesn't boil off and expose the tops of the plates inside the battery.   The most common reason for boiling off electrolyte is excessive charging voltage.   Deep cycle batteries should be charged at about 14.8 volts. See the charts at PowerStream Sealed Lead Acid Battery Charging Basics for complete charts and detailed testing instructions.

Don't forget the windshield washer fluid in your motorhome and other vehicles.   Summer formulas will freeze.  Most winter fluids are good to at least -20°F, which is usually adequate unless you live in northern Alaska!

We sometimes spend a night in our RV at home during the off season or use it as a guest house for visitors.  This is a good way to make sure it remains inhabitable and to test the furnace and lighting.  Since we live where we get freezing temperatures in the winter, we do not use any of the plumbing during winter months, but if your RV is equipped for winter use you could do so.   Any use, even of winter-capable units, would require re-winterization after use to prevent freezing of water lines and dump valves in storage --- unless you live where you don't have to worry about freezing.

Winter is also a good time to do interior projects in your RV.  Do you want to update or add lighting fixtures?   Repair upholstery?  Add any new gadgets?   Any new entertainment equipment you want to install?  Any appliances that need service or repair?   Any cabinets or drawers that need to be fixed or just reorganized?  Don't we all suffer from the shortage of "round tuits"?    You know, all those things you can't do because you can't get around to it.  Winter is a good time to take care of those things you never got around to during the camping season.  The "off season" is a good time to empty out, clean, and reorganize every closet, cabinet, drawer and tool box.   If nothing else, it is helps us remember what we have on board and where it is.  You can also detect and repair or replace worn, damaged, or outdated items.

OHVs should be properly prepared for winter storage too.   Drain the fuel tank and run out all the fuel in the carburetor or add fuel stabilizer before parking your machine.   Change the oil so it isn't sitting all winter with contaminates that can damage metal parts.  Put a light coating of oil on exposed metal parts.  If it has batteries, they should be removed and stored in a warm place.  Leaving them on a maintenance charger might keep them charged enough to prevent freezing.  Just leaving them sit in freezing temperatures all winter is an invitation to failure.  Park your OHVs in a garage or shed if possible.  If not, cover them with a tarp to prevent damage from the elements.   Tires should be fully inflated and wooden "pads" put under them.

Store it right!

Tent Window Cleaning (Really?)

Tent window cleaning?  Yeah, right!  Who cleans their tent windows?   Probably not very many people.  But in reality there is something to be said about cleaning the windows in your tent.  Dirty windows can inhibit your view and, if it is the screens that are dirty, will also reduce air flow.  If they get stained by sap or spilled foods they might attract insects or vermin that can do additional damage.  Some stuff, like bird droppings and sap, might even rot the screen fabric.

Many tents may only have screened windows, so cleaning them is a matter of removing the dust or other stuff that might have accumulated on them.  Sometimes you can blow off the dust with an air hose or simply wipe it away with a damp cloth.  If it isn't loose enough for that or you need to remove sap or bird droppings, you may need to wash it off with warm, soapy water Take care not to drip or spill water inside the tent or allow it to run down the rest of the wall.  You might want to lay the window down flat on an old towel to wash the screen.  If you have difficulty removing tree sap, be very careful what kind of solvents you use as many solvents may damage the screen fabric.  One of the weird camping tips I picked up says you can use mayonnaise to remove tree sap from your hands and I suspect it could be safely used on tent screens as well.   Make sure to wash the residue off with warm soapy water and rinse and dry it thoroughly or the mayonnaise may attract bugs and/or leave an unpleasant smell as it deteriorates.

A few tents have flexible plastic windows.   These require careful  wet cleaning to prevent accumulated dust from scratching the plastic as well as to keep them optically clear.   If your tent has plastic windows, the owners guide should include instructions for caring for the windows.  Lacking an owner's guide, wash them gently with warm, soapy water using a soft cotton or microfiber cloth. Then rinse them until all soapy reside is gone and dry them with a soft cotton or microfiber cloth.   If the windows also have screens, wash them as described above too.  NEVER rub plastic windows when they are dry. even to remove light dust.  Any dust will act like a rubbing compound and put micro-scratches in the plastic and the once clear plastic will soon be cloudy and then it will difficult if not impossible to make the clear again.  If plastic windows have become cloudy or yellowed you may be able to clean them with a good plastic cleaner for motorcycle windshields such as Novus.   I have a 3-stage Novus cleaning system that can remove fairly deep scratches from plastic windows, Goggles, etc.

While you're at it, clean all the zippers.   The zippers are usually made of plastic and any dirt or debris can damage them or cause them to malfunction.   Use a soft brush like an old toothbrush. A little dry teflon or silcone lubricant may also help keep them working smoothly.  I would avoid oily lubricants because they will stain the tent fabric and may collect dust and make things worse.  There is a product called EZ-Snap that is a non-oily lubricant for snaps and zippers.  I have tried it with great success on zippers on tents, gear bags and boots.

See out!

RV Window Cleaning

Keeping the windows on your RV clean improves the view and, in the case of the windshield and other driver windows, is necessary for safety.  Windows accumulate dirt and road grime on the outside and film from cooking and upholstery inside.   You might also get hard water stains on the outside from sprinklers, depending on where you park your RV.  Chemicals leech out of vinyl upholstery and floors and create a hazy film on the inside of the windows that can be surprisingly hard to remove.   You may not even notice it until you driving into the sun and find your view really hazy and the glare extremely distracting.  Rear windows are often covered with road grime flung up from the back of the vehicle.

You can use an ordinary household window cleaner to clean your RV windows or one specially designed for automobile windows.  Really stubborn deposits may require using household cleanser like Ajax or Comet.  If your RV has been parked where it gets hit by sprinklers, you may have hard water stains on the outside glass, and those can be VERY hard to remove.  Hard water cleaners like CLR may help but sometimes it takes scraping them off with a razor blade.   A standard, single-edge razor blade in an appropriate holder will do the job but a wider painter's scraper will make it go faster.  Soak the window with window cleaner or with a vinegar and water solution and keep it wet while scraping. Interior windows tend to develop a film from cooking fumes and chemicals that leach out of vinyl upholstery.  This is especially noticeable on the windshields of motorhomes with acres of vinyl dashboard.  Regular window cleaner usually does a pretty good job on interior windows.  RV supply stores and catalogs often offer a "streak free" glass cleaner that is also very good.  I generally save it for cleaning mirrors since it is a little pricier than standard window cleaner (which you can usually get at your local dollar store), but it also works well on windows.  I prefer the window cleaner with ammonia, which also works well to clean and prevent mildew in ice chests and refrigerators.  Some window treatments include an anti-fog ingredient that is again, especially useful on bathroom mirrors, but can also help keep your windshield clear on humid days.

Homemade window cleaning solutions that work well include vinegar and water (about 1/4 cup white distilled vinegar to 2 cups water; for extra cleaning power to remove film left by commercial window cleaners, add about 1/2 teaspoon of liquid soap or detergent).  Another vintage window cleaning solution uses ammonia.  You can use ammonia and water alone or add rubbing alcohol or vinegar.  Use equal amounts of water, ammonia, and alcohol or vinegar.   As mentioned above, a little liquid soap or detergent along with the vinegar may help with some extra stubborn surfaces.  Don't use too much soap or it will leave a soapy residue.  NEVER mix ammonia with anything containing chlorine bleach!  It can produce deadly vapors.

Whenever you are working with ammonia, wear rubber gloves.  In fact, it is a good idea to wear rubber gloves for cleaning windows no matter what solution you are using.   None of the cleaning solutions, even "environmentally friendly" ones, are particularly friendly to your skin and will, at the very least, most likely leave their distinctive odor on your hands.

Paper towels or microfiber towels are least likely to leave streaks or residue.  You can often use crumpled newspaper for initial cleaning of bugs, mud, and crud of the outside and save the costlier paper towels or microfiber towels for final buffing and polishing.

You should be able to reach all of the interior windows from inside the RV.  You might have to reach over dashboards and furniture or duck under cabinets or crawl over the bed and move aside shades and curtains.

You will probably need a ladder or step stool to reach all of the exterior windows unless you have a very small RV.  Be sure to use a ladder that is tall enough for the task and don't stand any higher than the second from the top step.   Standing too high up on a ladder is unstable and you could easily fall and be injured.   Also resist the temptation to stand on a handy chair or stool.   They are not designed for that purpose and are likely to be unstable.   It is often tempting to over extend your reach instead of moving the ladder, but this is a dangerous practice.   Reaching too far will likely cause the ladder to tip or you to fall off of it and the consequences of either event are not pleasant and will ultimately slow the cleaning process more than stopping to move the ladder as needed.  One way to avoid the temptation to over-reach is to position the ladder in the right position in the first place.  Large windows may require you to move the ladder once or twice to safely reach the whole surface but being able to safely clean even the edges and corners is well worth the extra effort to re-position the ladder a few times.

I recall a product called "Glass Wax" that did an exceptional job of cleaning windows.  Like any wax, it takes some rubbing, but it sure did a nice job!   I wasn't able to find a current source for this brand but the search turned up lots of high powered window cleaners that might be worth checking out.  An established standard is Windex and there are many imitators that have a similar blue formula.  I prefer the ones that include ammonia, which are also good for sanitizing and deodorizing coolers and refrigerators.

Wash the screens when you wash the windows.  In many cases you'll have to remove the screens in order to wash the windows anyway, so go ahead and wash them before you put them back on.  If they're just dusty, simply spraying them with compress air or rinsing them with a garden hose should do the trick.  If they are oily or greasy or stained with tree sap or bird droppings you may need stronger methods, like hot soapy water and a brush or maybe even some solvents.   Be careful using solvents since some may damage the screen fabric.  Shake or tap the screens to remove the water or, if you have an air compressor, use a blow gun to get rid of the leftover drops, taking care not to damage the screen.  Lacking a way to blow dry them, blot them with a towel and/or let them stand in the sun to dry before reinstalling them.   If you need to scrub them hard to remove stains or deposits, lay the screen on a flat surface so you don't stretch the material, pull it out of the frame, or bend the frame.

Wash the windows frequently to prevent a build up of film or hard water stains.   Regular washing may take time, but ultimately it will save hours of scrubbing if you allow the crud to bake on and your RV will be more safer and more enjoyable.

With proper care and appropriate cleaners your glass will be "so clean it seems to disappear" ( a registered tag line of Windex brand window cleaners).

In Camp Games and Activities

You are pretty much limited only by your imagination, your physical capabilities, available space, and your personal preferences, when it comes to things to do while camping.  Here are some traditional favorites that take up little room and appeal to a wide range of campers.   Some of the things to consider will be size, weight, and cost of equipment, number of players needed and/or allowed versus the number of people in your group, availability of appropriate spaces.   Activities that require little or no special equipment and are easily adapted to any location will be especially appealing.

Horseshoes is probably one of the oldest traditional games enjoyed by campers.   I'm thinking it might have something to do with the lack of other options on wagon trains.   No doubt they carried extra horseshoes with them and had little room for other play equipment so making a game out of things on hand just made sense.  Just take care to keep the playing area free from living targets!

Tug-of-war is  fun group activity and all you need is a big rope and room enough for the two teams to face off on either end.   For an extra incentive and added fun on a hot day stretch the rope over a creek or a puddle.  You can even do a tug-of-war in the snow (I recommend forgoing any kind of wet obstacles in cold weather; being draggesd down into the snow will be punishing enough).

Lawn darts are another game you'll see often in RV stores.  It requires even more care than horseshoes to ensure safety, but it can be a lot of fun.   And, again, it takes up little room.  Variations of the game can include throwing for accuracy at targets formed by string on the ground or trying for greatest distance.   A safer variation are "nerf"darts, that won't make nasty holes in someone's head if they land on them.

I've seen Boy Scout troops have knife and tomahawk throwing contests, but for that you will need special knives and axes, special targets, and lots of safety precautions, to say nothing of proper training and lots of practice. 

Washers is another tossing game that has gained some popularity. The "washers" are usually large, flat, plastic rings. The game is played much like horseshoes, attempting to toss them onto a vertical post.

Frisbees are light weight and fun for both people and dogs.  You can even build your own "Frisbee golf course" or just play catch with them.   In a pinch they can also be used as paper plate holders.

Various games of "tag" can be adapted to almost any location and usually required little if any special equipment.

Old school yard games like "Red Rover" and "Mother May I" can be fun when you have enough people and a comfortable (grassy or sandy) place large enough to play and they don't require any special equipment.

Volleyball is a pretty flexible game that can be set up where ever you have a flat, sandy or grassy area big enough.  You might play on a paved playground, but that can deliver some nasty  contusions should you fall, as players often do while going for the ball.  You can usually use the same ball to play soccer or dodge ball.

Badminton can share a net with volley ball and provide an alternate 2 or 4 person game.

Lawn tennis might also be played using a volleyball or badminton net.

Squirt gun fights are a fun way to cool down a hot summer afternoon.  We've found a variety of squirt guns and even "super soakers" at Dollar Tree, so it doesn't have to  expensive to equip your whole group and they're resusable as long as you don't step on them or otherwise treat them too rough.  While this may seem to appeal mostly to kids, you might be surprised how much fun it can be for adults.  I remember a few such activities with my Dad when we were growing up and with a squirt gun in his hand he quickly became a kid again, giving us (me at least) memories of family fun that have lasted for decades.  Of course you'll need access to a campground faucet or provide some other means for readily refilling your devices.

Basketball may be an option in a developed campground that has a designated court. It probably isn't a good thing to try in primitive desert or forest camps.

Football, especially the "touch" or "flag" versions, are popular pastimes where ever you have grassy field or sandy beach where you can play. Although your inherent macho drive might make you want to the play full-contact, tackle game, lack of proper equipment is likely to lead to injuries that will spoil your day as quickly and surely as rain on a picnic -- especially if you're on the receiving end of the pain!

Softball is an All-American classic.  There are several games you can play with just a bat, a ball, and a mitt.  If you have enough people you can choose up teams and have a full 9-inning game.   You can play with fewer players, either with small teams or with no teams by simply rotating positions.  It is called Scrub or Workup  Baseball.  I recall a playground game from my youth called "Knock Up and Lay Down" where the batter hit the ball.   If someone caught the fly, they got to be the batter.   If they missed the catch, but retrieved the ball, they'd roll it toward the bat, which the batter had laid down crossways in front of his feet. The object of rolling the ball was to hit the bat. If the batter didn't catch the ball when it bounced off the bat, he lost his turn at bat to the person who rolled the ball. There is no penalty for the roller missing the bat except losing a an opportunity to win your chance at bat.  You need a nice grassy field for a game of softball and pretty smooth paved area, like a playground,  parking lot, or a vacant street for "Knock Up and Lay Down".   A fun version of baseball for the smaller kids is T-ball, where the ball is set on a "T" and the batter takes a swing at it instead of facing a pitcher.

Croquet was once a the very popular sport of royalty.   Again, it takes little equipment and needs only a level, grassy area.   Because it isn't as popular as it once was, it provides a kind of novelty that can be fun for all ages.   A croquet set consists of at least 2 mallets, several balls (traditionally made of wood) and a number of wire hoops and a couple of end posts so it doesn't take up a lot or room or add a lot of weight to your camping stuff.

Card games are usually reserved for indoor, rain-day options, but having an outdoor group session can also be a fun thing to do in the afternoon or evening, especially if weather prevents other more active outdoor games.

Board games likewise, mostly come out when you're stuck inside in bad weather, but can also be quite vigorous and exciting in larger groups.

Skeet shooting and other target practice is something we often found to be a fun change from riding our dirt bikes in the desert.  It isn't something you can do just anyplace, but it works well in many remote areas unless shooting is prohibited.  Be sure to make sure no riders or hikers show up down range!   It is a really good idea to designate one member of your group as "Range Safety Officer".  His or her ONLY job is to monitor the range and the shooters and watch for and stop unsafe conditions.  That includes keeping an eye down range for errant hikers or riders who may wander in and policing the shooters so ensure they maintain safe practices on the firing line.  Doing a little shooting might even provide a level of security by letting would-be future felons in the area know yours is an armed camp and they may choose to look elsewhere for an easier target.

Archery is another shooting sport that is fun and lends a kind of pre-technology "Robin Hood" or American Indian spirit to the outing.  You sometimes find small archery ranges at resorts or you may have to set up your own targets.  Bales of straw make good target backstops for archery.  Targets might include standard bulls-eye formats and animal silhouettes for those interested in perfecting their primitive hunting skills or just making it more fun.  An advantage of archery over skeet shooting is that it is QUIET.   Be sure you have proper safety devices (arm guards and finger tabs) to avoid unnecessary injuries.  Even with arm guards I've seen shooters with purple forearms on their bow hands after a few rounds of the bowstring whacking them.  Be sure someone in the group has some skills and experience they can use to train others.  What you seen in movies and on TV is a far cry from safe and sane procedures and discipline needed for fun and accurate shooting.

Bicycling is good exercise and gives you a certain amount of increased mobility around camp. Bicycles are environmentally friendly and economical to operate.   Mountain bike models can even extend your excursions beyond roads to more primitive routes.  Bikes might be a nice addition to OHV outings where you can take advantage of nearby OHV trails.  I've even seen all-wheel drive mountain bikes for off road use.

Shuffleboard requires a prepared court so you'll only have this option at developed campgrounds who have built one.

Nerf toys provide an almost endless variety of possible games.  Nerf footballs give almost all the fun of regular footballs, but with likelihood of injuring bystanders.   One of our family favorites were Nerf Rockets that whistled loudly when thrown.

Golf, tennis, pickleball, and ping pong are available at some resorts.

Play on!

Car Camping

Car camping has been mentioned in several posts.  So, what is car camping?  We're not talking about how some homeless people live in their cars nor some fictional outing by Lightning McQueen. What we are talking about is essentially either sleeping in your car or truck when camping or it is sometimes used to refer to just tent camping out of your car, using your car to get to the campground and using your car, truck, or SUV as an integral part of your camping equipment and not camping very far from your vehicle.  A vehicle can serve as a pantry, closet, bedroom, and shelter from bad weather as well as transportation.  With the addition of an attached tent it becomes a very stable part of your temporary domicile.  Your car radio can provide weather information and entertainment.  Just make sure you don't run your batteries down!  Of course the size and style of your car will play a significant role in how you can use it while camping.  A large SUV, van, or a pickup with a camper shell are generally the most flexible, providing the most options for transporting gear, sleeping, and living space, but even a compact car can get you in out of a severe rainstorm and running the heater could be one way to prevent hypothermia in cold weather.  Sleeping in a compact car may require developing some rather creative body positions that make yoga seem easy but larger vehicles can be quite comfortable.  I recall some Hudson and Nash sedans in the late 1950s that had an option called "sleeper seats".  The front seat backs fold down level with the rear seat cushion, creating a wall-to-wall bed.  We found it adequate for our family of 4 when I was a teenager.

In its simplest form, car camping is using your car or other vehicle to transport you, your companions and your camping equipment to you camp site and possibly sleeping in your car.   Other non-RV camping methods might include bike camping (bicycle or motorcycle), hiking, horseback, and back packing.   Car camping allows you to bring along larger, heavier equipment to make your stay more comfortable.  You usually only have to carry your equipment a few yards from your parking area to your camp site. Y ou can also use your vehicle as a secure storage facility while you're camping and as a refuge from particularly nasty weather.  You might have more room in your tent than your car, but your car may stay a lot warmer and drier in nasty weather.   One form of car camping is using your car or truck in lieu of a tent.   That works pretty well if you have a pickup, van, SUV, or station wagon, but can be kind of cramped if you're trying to sleep in the back seat of compact car.  If you're using a pickup having a camper shell, canopy, or truck tent -- or at least a tarp you can fasten over the bed -- will be helpful.  As mentioned above, some years ago, the now defunct American Motors offered "sleeper seats" in their Hudson and Nash sedans. The front backrests folded down flat next to the back seat to make a fairly comfortable full size bed inside the car. When I was a teenager my family took a trip to Yellowstone Park in a '57 Hudson and 4 of us slept in it.   Haven't seen anything like that for about 50 years!  The only complaint I had was that we didn't have screens for the windows and were attacked by voracious mosquitoes all night long.  By morning they sounded like B-52s buzzing inside the car!

Advantages of car camping include low cost, flexibility, and the ability to go just about anywhere. You can start small, with basic second-hand or rented equipment to see if you like it, then gradually upgrade as your needs and wants grow.  You don't need to buy, insure, maintain and store an extra vehicle.  You don't need a large parking space like you would for a motorhome or trailer.   You can usually store all your camping stuff in your garage or basement.  Apartment dwellers sometimes find space under the bed or in a closet.

The perceived disadvantages of car camping are usually focused on the lack of amenities found in RVs (weather protection, sturdy walls, comfortable beds, stand up head room, climate controls like furnaces and air conditioning, full service galleys, hot water, and private sanitation facilities plus many of the electronic entertainment options you have at home.  RVs are perceived as safer and more comfortable in foul weather.   Most people who move up to RVs from tent camping do so for the creature comforts and to avoid the hassle of setting up and taking down tents.   In reality, the only real disadvantages to car camping are the time it takes to set up and break camp, the greater impact of bad weather on your comfort, and perhaps the  lack of stand-up headroom for dressing and various other activities.  You also have to cook outside, which can be a problem in bad weather. 

 Car camping isn't a new concept.  Kits to turn your car into a sleeping area (See this Tentobed Company advertisement) and tents that attached to the side of a car like this one from The L.F. Shilling Company have been around a long time.   Note the vintage of the vehicles in these ads.  I put them both as pre-1920 models. I doubt if you'll find anything "designed to go on almost any standard car" these days and the lack of running boards would make these vintage models unusable without modifications.  You might add a roof top tent and camp ON your car.   Here are some rather high end examples:  roof top tents.  Truck and SUV tents are designed to fit in or on these vehicles to create extended living areas in camp.

Car camping allows you to bring along equipment that would be too heavy or too bulky for hiking and back packing.   For hike-in camping or backpacking the emphasis is on light weight and small size.  Car camping lets you bring along larger, heavier tents and warmer sleeping bags, bigger camp stoves, and other equipment to enhance your experience and add convenience to your outings. Car camping is especially well suited for larger groups.

To go car camping you'll need a car or other vehicle to transport you and your equipment.  Your equipment will probably include a tent, sleeping bag(s), camp stove, ice chest, flashlights, and water jugs.  Other camping accessories you might find useful include lanterns, camp chairs, and folding picnic tables.   An awning or canopy might be helpful in hot weather if the campsite is not shaded and can sometimes be used to keep the rain off, if it isn't raining too hard and there isn't too much wind.

A variation of car camping that often adds convenience and comfort is truck or SUV camping. This may involve the use of a tent that attaches to your truck or SUV.  Or you might sleep in the back of your SUV or in a truck tent or shell on the back of a pickup truck.  I have what they called a "carpet kit" for the back of my pickup.  Not only does it line the bed with carpeting for comfort and warmth, it's set of foam cushions can be configured into a sofa like seating area against the cab or spread out to form a wall-to-wall mattress covering the entire truck bed that is very comfortable to sleep on.   A shell lacks the stand-up headroom and the facilities of a slide-in camper, but it does keep the elements at bay and requires little or no setup in camp.   Truck and SUV tents are less effected by winds than stand-alone tents simply because they are securely anchored to your vehicle and the vehicle sometimes provides at least a partial wind block.  Sleeping in the back of your truck or SUV is usually warmer, more comfortable, and more secure than sleeping in a tent.  If it gets really cold you can always run the vehicle heater for a while to take the chill off -- just be sure any tent fabric is clear of the exhaust and the exhaust doesn't exit into or blow back inside the tent!  And don't run it enough to run out of gas.

You might enhance your car camping experience by adapting your car specifically for camping. You may want to fashion curtains or window coverings that will give you a little privacy and will help keep out unwanted light when you're trying to sleep.  If you frequent locations where mosquitos or other flying insects are a problem, you might want to make screen for the windows so can enjoy fresh air without the bugs.  If you're really ambitious, you might customize your trunk to organize your camping gear or turn it into a functional camp kitchen by building a "chuck box".    If you frequently attach a car tent or a canopy to your vehicle you might want to install permanent hooks to make it easier and more stable.   If I were planning on doing a lot of car camping, I'd look for an old Hudson or Nash 4 door sedan from the late 1950s because of the sleeper seat option they had, creating a comfortable sleeping area the full length of the interior that can accommodate up to 4 people.  Adapting any modern car to a similar configuration could be difficult.   You would have to start with something that has front seats than can be fully reclined.   Even then, the built in headrests in most modern cars would be in the way of folding the seat so it is completely flat. In the 1920s there was something called the Tentobed that created a sleeping area over top of the seats.  Even if you could build one today, it probably wouldn't be practical given the low clearance between the tops of the seat backs and the headliner.  Back in the 1970s and 1980s there were cots that fit over the front seats in van conversions that could sleep a small person but I haven't even seem them around for years.  Our pop-top camper had dual bunks in the pop top and we added a third one over the front seats as the family grew.   You might be able to fabricate your own to custom fit your vehicle using poles or pipes and canvas but finding appropriate mounting hardware may be difficult.  Metal (not plastic) closet rod end supports might work.   Here is a link to one possible online source:  canvas cot/bunk bed.  Measure your vehicle carefully to see if one of their standard cots will fit or can be easily adapted.  This is also a possible source for bunk rail mounts if you need them for your own home-made cots.  These cots might work in vans, trucks, and large SUVs but would probably not be very practical in modern passenger cars.  Even full size sedans have a pretty low profile with minimal head room.

Here is a link to another good description of car camping.

Pack up and go!

MORE Things For Campers To Do In Winter

It is that time of the year again.   Some folks winterize their RVs or pack their tents and gear away, and forget about camping until spring.  To each his own, but it doesn't have to be that way. T here are lots of camping-related things you can do to maintain your edge during winter months when most of us choose not to venture out a lot.  Make the most of that time between bouts of shoveling snow!

Of course, if you are active in winter sports, you may want to prepare your RV or tent for winter camping and keep right on going out.   An RV makes a very comfortable mobile chalet for skiing, sledding, and snowmobiling.   But you'll have to make sure everything is freeze protected.   If you're just doing day trips you can run the generator and use electric heaters to keep your fresh water, holding tanks, and plumbing from freezing.  Few exterior compartments are insulated.   Running the generator over night is not a good idea.  Any malfunction in the exhaust or a breeze blowing in the wrong direction could bring carbon monoxide into your RV while you sleep and you'd NEVER wake up again -- EVER!  Carbon monoxide is colorless and odorless.  It is know as the "silent killer".  Tent camping in winter is more of a challenge.  Of course, climbers on Mt. Everest live in tents in far more severe conditions than we're likely to face camping, but I'm sure they are not as warm or comfortable as we like to be.   A tent with a full length rain fly will provide a little extra protection from winter weather.  Some folks even sew an extra skirt onto the rain fly so it goes all the way to the ground to prevent snow from blowing up between it and the inner tent wall.  A good ground cloth is essential. For added warmth, cut a piece of bubble foam insulation to use underneath your sleeping bags.  I put a couple of old sleeping bags to good use.   I unzipped one and put it underneath our regular sleeping bags . The other one (unzipped) was placed over two sleeping bags.   We stayed quite warm and comfortable in spite of having set up the tent on a deep snow base and sub-freezing outside temperatures that night.

Winter is a good time to inventory, inspect, repair, and update your camping equipment and supplies.   Go through your RV cabinets and camping tubs.  Remove any provisions that might be susceptible to freeze damage or are outdated.  Get rid of superfluous items you might have collected along the way.  Clean your equipment and make any necessary repairs.  Things like camp stoves and lanterns often get put away at the end of a trip without a really detailed cleaning, so now is a good time to open them up and really go through them.  Stoves and and lanterns that use white gas should be drained and the lines blown out to avoid clogging the orifices when the gas deteriorates.  Clean the glass globes on your lanterns.  They do get smokey over time.  Yes, all the disassembly and cleaning is a little tedious, but you'll enjoy using them even more next season and keeping them clean will extend their useful lifetime.  Repair tents, awnings, camp chairs, canopies, sleeping bags, and packs. Check local camping stores and departments and online for end of season sales and stock up on items you want, need, or use frequently.

Winter is a also good time to review last season's activities and go over your notes to see what changes you need/want to make in your equipment, tools, supplies, and activities and begin planning for next year.  Research new destinations and routes you might want to try out.  Look up additional information about your favorite places.  You may be surprised how much historical or geographic information you can find.   I had wondered about the history of an old, abandoned railroad water tower near one of our favorite desert dirt bike staging areas for years and finally tracked down its history and learned there were plans to move it to railroad museum in a town some miles away.  I found out the tower was once part of a little town that was a stop on the famous 20 Mule Team route.  You can use your off-season time to learn more about the flora and fauna of your favorite camping spots and that can add interest, entertainment, and education to your next visit.   If you can't find what you're looking for on the Internet, try contacting the local ranger station.

Catch up on your laundry.  We sometimes forget about the towels and linens in our RVs and camping tubs until they become too soiled or smelly to use.   Even if they seemed OK the last time you used them, they may have well developed some mold, mildew or other unpleasant odors in storage.  Winter is a good time to take everything out and wash it.  While you're at it check all items for any needed repairs and take care of those too -- or retire unusable articles to the rag bag.   Don't forget the dish towels in the galley or the wash cloth hanging in the shower.  You may have a favorite sweatshirt or jacket in the closet that could use a good washing after several evenings chopping wood and sitting in the smoke from the campfire.   Unused items in the closet may have absorbed some of the odors from that sweatshirt or jacket so they may need be washed too, even if they haven't been worn.  Having everything fresh and clean your next outing will be fun.  Now is a good time to wash sleeping bag liners and take your sleeping bags to the cry cleaners so they'll be fresh for next year.  When you're done, toss the used dryer sheets into closets or drawers to help keep pests away.

Shampoo carpets and upholstery in your RV.   They'll have plenty of time to dry before your next outing in the spring.  Cleaning them now may also help prevent spills from developing into unpleasant masses of fungus or mold over the winter.  If you have leather driver and passenger seats, clean them with saddle soap and rub them vigorously with leather balm.  It will keep the leather soft and pliable and keep your seats looking like new for a long time.   Leather wipes from your auto supply store will also work for occasional cleanups, but won't provide the same deep cleaning and conditioning.  Repair any holes or tears in upholstery before they get bigger.

Clean your tents, canopies, and sleeping bags.   Tents and canopies can usually be set up and scrubbed with a sponge or brush and soapy water, then rinsed and let dry.   You might want to restore the water repellant after a thorough cleaning as some detergents may weaken or remove the water repellant treatment.   Camp Dry or a similar spray on waterproofing product can be used on tents, awnings, and even footwear and clothing.  Be sure to repair any holes or rips.  Some sleeping bags can be machine washed. If you don't know for sure, to be on the safe side, send them to the dry cleaners.  When you get them back, don't roll them tightly.   Doing so compresses the filling and destroys the "loft" that keeps you warm and comfortable.  Hang them up or store them folded or put them into "stuff" sacks.  Dry cleaning machine washable bags may help prevent clumping of fill.

If your activities include OHVs or horses you will want to inspect and service your gear.  Dirt bikes and ATVs should be properly stored -- change the oil so they aren't sitting with contaminated oils all winter that can etch metal parts.   Drain the fuel system.   Lubricate all the cables and other moving parts.  You horseback riders can take time to thoroughly clean your tack with saddle soap and rub it with leather conditioner to keep it supple and looking good.   Clean out your saddle bags and get them ready for next summer.  Freshen your bedroll.  Go through all your riding gear.   Make sure it is clean and in good repair for your next outing.  While you're at it, check your horses' shoes and decide when you need to schedule the farrier to come and give them new ones.  If you prefer natural hoof care, clean and trim the hooves.

Inventory, inspect, clean, and organize your tools.  Sharpen axes, hatchets, and knives.  Not only do sharp tools work better they're safer to use.  Repair or replace any broken tools.  Replacing missing tools.  Things like sockets and the various tips for power drill/drivers seem to get lost easily. If you keep them logically organized you'll be able to detect AWOL items so you can replace them now instead of cursing their disappearance when later in camp when replacements are way out of reach.

Seek additional sources of camping and survival information and training.   Take advantage of the many free resources on the Internet.  Watch TV schedules for outdoor shows or history/science channel episodes relevant to where you like to go and what you like to do.   Check out some local camping, OHV, or RV clubs and see if you want to get more involved with them.  They often have winter gatherings where you can meet some of the people and learn about the club activities.   You might even find some local adult ed or community college classes (like auto repair) that may be of interest.   Renew or upgrade your first aid and CPR training or seek out a wilderness survival class. 

Do some shopping for camping gear.  Being what is normally the off season for camping you may be able to snag some good deals.  Watch for clearances or year end sales at sporting goods stores and department stores starting in mid summer and into the fall and winter.  Check ebay for items you've been looking for.  Even private party prices may be low so check your classifieds, ebay, and craigslist.

Practice your Dutch oven cooking.  You don't have to go camping to whip up a Dutch oven dinner. Now is a good time to try out some new recipes.  You can set up your Dutch oven on the patio or deck or maybe even on the balcony of an apartment.  If using it on a balcony or deck, be sure to put it on a fireproof or at least heat resistant surface.  If something goes wrong with your Dutch over dinner at home, you can always make a McDonald's run and try again later.   Better to get the bugs out now than do battle with them in camp or during an emergency at home.

Stay active!  Don't just sit around all winter.  You'll want to be in good physical shape for next season, so hit the gym or do some regular exercises at home.   Pushing the buttons on the remote control and lifting a can of your favorite beverage to your lips does NOT count as exercise!

Maintain your edge!

Weird (and not so weird) Camping Tips

Here are some weird and some not-so-weird tips I came across that I thought I would share. Some are actually helpful; some are just fun -- or funny.

Stop the Itch.  ou can stop the itch of mosquito and other insect bites using a variety of common things you probably already have on board your RV or in your camping kit.   The one that surprised me the most was toothpaste.   It needs to be paste, not gel.  Just dab some on a bite and, presto! Instant relief from sting and itch.  Another dental based solution: Oragel or a similar toothache medication will kill the sting AND numb the bite.  Another odd one is automobile starting fluid.  Just a quick spray on the affected area quickly takes out the itch and burn in an instant.  The active ingredient in many "bite sticks" and anti-itch medications is ammonia.   Instead of paying several dollars for a pen-sized stick dispenser, pick up a whole bottle of ammonia at your local dollar store to refill your bite stick or use directly.  It can also be used for a number of household cleaning tasks. Another way to kill the itch and burn of bee stings is with a plain old aspirin tablet.  Wet the sting and rub the aspirin on it.   Baking soda is also a familiar folk remedy that actually works on many insect bites.  In a survival situation, plain old mud will help stop the stinging and itching.  No mud?  Spit in the dirt to make some.  Other bodily fluids might be used in a pinch, but are less appealing.

Some more weird sting/bite remedies.  A paste made from meat tenderizer and water will quickly take the "ouch" out of bee stings.  As mentioned above, a little bit of ordinary mud will usually ease the itch and swelling of mosquito and other insect bites.  It is said the relief is instant.

Don't be a sap.   Or at least don't stay sappy if you get that way.  Getting sap on your hands is a common problem when camping and handling firewood.   Rub it with some mayonnaise and the sap will come right off.  It might also work to get sap off tent fabric and window screens.  Then all you have to do is find a way to get rid of the mayonnaise (but its not nearly as sticky).

I'm am told that peanut butter will get chewing gum out of your hair.   Of course, if you spit it out your gum before you go to bed you probably won't get it in your hair in the first place.

Camp clothespins.   Save the plastic clips from bread bags and use them to secure your clothes, towels, etc to your clothesline in camp.  They are small and very light weight so they won't take up much room.  You can probably get about 50 of them into a 35mm film can.

Waterproof your matches.  Some folks suggest dipping stick matches in wax to waterproof them. Others say that over time the wood will still absorb moisture that will be trapped by the wax and render the matches useless, even when they haven't gotten wet.  You can also try dipping the tips in fingernail polish.  The idea behind both of these suggestions is to try to seal the head of the match against moisture.  However, to really be sure your matches will work in wet weather, keep them in a waterproof container -- not just a plastic sandwich bag, but a waterproof match case designed for the purpose.  They aren't expensive and don't take up much room.   Match cases are usually about 3/4" in diameter and 2 1/2" long.   They come in plastic or stainless steel.   Both have a rubber O-ring to seal out moisture when the lid is screwed down tight.  While you're at it, make sure you stock "strike anywhere" matches for camping.   The "strike on box" versions are a little safer around small children, but not very convenient for starting campfires if you don't have the box handy.  Be careful where you strike them. Do NOT strike them on the rocks in your fire ring if you have doused your wood with an accelerant like charcoal starter or gasoline.   I've seen people strike matches using their thumbnail while holding the match firmly in the same hand.   My grandfather used to do that all the time.   While that works, it is also a good way to burn your hand, especially if your fingers are stiff from the cold and you can't move the burning match quickly, which may be a problem if your hands are cold or if you have arthritis -- or if you simply aren't used to doing it.  This reminds me of a trick in the movie Lawrence of Arabia where Lawrence holds a burning match between his thumb and finger until it goes out.   When a soldier tries to duplicate the trick he quickly burns his fingers, curses, drops the match and tells Lawrence "That hurts!  There is some trick to it". Lawrence replies "The trick,by dear fellow, is not minding that it hurts!".  Another questionable trick I've seen is striking them on your zipper or even along the leg of your jeans.   Seems like a good way to get your pants on fire.  When people talk about "hot pants" I don't think that is what they have in mind!

Ordinary cooking oil works well to remove the residue from many adhesive stickers.  WD40 is also a pretty good solvent for removing grease and oil from hands and clothes and many other surfaces.  My favorite goo remover is a product called "Goo Gone".

When camping, always wear a long-sleeved shirt.  It gives you something to wipe your nose on. On the more serious side, it will protect you from sunburn and insect bites and you'll probably be cooler in a loose fitting long-sleeved shirt than in a t-shirt or tank top on hot days. Direct sunlight on skin can be excruciating.  Long sleeved, loose fitting clothing allows a shady place for perspiration to evaporate and cool you down.

Laundry (dryer) lint makes good tinder/fire starter.  You'll see this suggestion in lots of places. Unfortunately, it is only partially true.  Cotton lint (from blue jeans or cotton t-shirts) WILL make good fire starter.   Lint from synthetic fabrics WON'T.   Synthetic lint tends to melt rather than burn. A sure-fire tinder (pun intended) that works well with matches or even flint and steel is 100% cotton balls.  Again, avoid the synthetic "cosmetic puffs".   Someone suggested using naval lint as tinder -- just be sure to remove it from your naval before igniting it!  I think you'll need a pretty big navel -- or lots of them -- to get enough to be of much use for anything but a fire piston.  In a survival situation you might find enough lint in your pockets to serve as tinder, but I'd a lot rather have a couple of cotton balls in my pack or pocket.  Navel lint might be useful in a fire piston,which uses only a tiny bit of tinder.

Rubbing the inside of an orange peel on your exposed skin is said to keep mosquitoes away.   And it usually smells better than chemical repellants and its free if you already have oranges to eat.

A potato baked in the coals for one hour makes an excellent side dish.  A potato baked in the coals for three hours makes an excellent hockey puck.  I can personally attest to the former; I haven't tried the latter but I'm betting it too is true.

A frisbee makes a pretty good make-shift paper plate holder.  Plates may not fit quite as securely as they do in holders designed for the purpose, but a frisbee is just about the right size to add much needed support when you have heavy food on a flimsy plate.  And you can have fun with it after your meal.   Just don't toss it into the fire along with your paper plate.   And make sure your dog doesn't try to grab it out of your hand before you finish eating or its "bye-bye" dinner!

To keep batteries from running down if the switch on a flashlight in storage gets bumped and turned on, put one of the batteries in backwards.   That keeps the batteries with the flashlight and it won't come on as long as one of the batteries is reversed.  Chances are an ordinary incandescent flashlight will still work -- and run down the batteries -- if you put ALL the batteries in backwards. LED lights are often more sensitive to polarity.   They usually only work when the batteries are installed with correct polarity within the flashlight.

More or less unrelated question:  why is it the people you see in lingerie stores are people you wouldn't want to see in lingerie?  Apply that to camping and you may understand another reason to stick with loose fitting, long sleeved shirts and pants instead of tank tops and shorts!

Tip off!