Resolving Purchase Problems

Eventually you're going to have some kind of problems with one or more of your camping/RV/OHV purchases.   Most reputable dealers and retailers will take care of warranty issues quickly and satisfactorily.  They usually will do their best to address other complaints as well.  They want to maintain their reputation and they want you to return to make additional purchases and to tell your friends and associates good things about them.  They know that how they handle issues is one of the main factors by which they will be judged.  Always be sure to read and understand any warranty clauses in your purchase contract or warranty policies of the store and manufacturer.  Some warranties require products to be returned to the manufacturer, not the store.   If you purchase extended warranties, makes sure you understand the terms and conditions.  They often require all repairs to be pre-approved or they can and will deny coverage.  It is a good idea to get approval in writing as phone approvals seem to be frequently challenged.   Always seek resolution from the dealer or retailer first (unless the warranty specifies return to manufacturer only) and then from the manufacturer before escalating your complaint.

Retain purchase receipts and original warranty documentation.  Without a receipt to prove the purchase date it will be difficult if not impossible to obtain any warranty service.  Some "lifetime warranties" may be honored without a receipt.  I found a broken Craftsman Phillips screwdriver in some tools I bought at a garage sale.  When I went to Sears with the intent of purchasing a replacement to complete my set, I was given one without charge under their lifetime warranty program.  However, in most cases, you will need your receipt to validate any warranty claim.   Make sure you get any guarantees in writing at the time of purchase. Z ealous salesman may make verbal promises beyond their authority, but if you have it in writing, a reputable business will back it up.   I've been on both sides of that situation.  With the promise in writing on the contract or receipt the dealers honored the promises made by their salesman.  When I had only an oral promise, I often found myself out of luck.

"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."   Many problems can be avoided by following good practices.   Do your due diligence when making any purchase.  Have vehicles checked by reliable mechanics and technicians.  Compare prices before you buy.   Read and understand any warranties and comply fully with all service and claims requirements.  Proof of proper maintenance is often required for warranty work and is always a good practice to make sure  your equipment functions properly and lasts as long as possible.

Don't make idle threats.   If you aren't fully prepared to follow through with legal action, don't threaten to "turn it over to my lawyer".   If you do plan legal action, simply exhaust your appeals with the dealer/manufacturer, then proceed with the lawsuit or file a complaint with your local district attorney and send a copy to the dealer/manufacturer. They'll get the message without you sounding off about it.  Threats often just undermine any sympathy and support you might have received from the agent handling your case.  You want to be seen as an actual victim of faulty materials, misrepresentation, or poor workmanship, not just a whiner.  Too many people will submit false, frivolous or fraudulent claims to recover damages or replacements for merchandise they damaged and should be responsible for or simply decided they don't want anymore.  When you have a legitimate claim you don't need to make threats or get angry.  Just document the problem, prove the validity of the warranty, and clearly state what solution(s) you seek or would accept.

Escalating your complaint.  If both the dealer and the manufacturer fail to resolve the problem, you may get help from a consumer affairs department in a your local government.  You can contact the Better Business Bureau (BBB), but they usually take no active role in resolving the complaint beyond notifying the business and posting the complaint on their web site for others to see.  It is a good idea to report complaints to the BBB, but don't expect miracles.  A BBB complaint may help motivate a reluctant merchant to review a case and possibly make some kind of amends, but their only response might be a denial of responsibility.  If you find other customers have filed similar complaints, your combined strength may motivate the seller to take action.   Another resource for RVers is the Hot Line service through Motorhome and Trailer Life magazines.  They investigate complaints and contact the businesses on your behalf.  On many occasions they have been able to assist people in obtaining a satisfactory results.  Sometimes they just get an extended explanation for the reasons for denial.  Don't expect miracles.   If a company believes your claim isn't valid, they have every right to deny it and no amount of pressure by publishers or consumer organizations is going to persuade them to fork out big bucks for something they are not obligated for.  Escalation does often raise awareness of an issue to a higher level of management that may be motivated and empowered to resolve the problem.  Sometimes companies will go beyond their contractual obligations in the interest of customer relations. 

Preventing warranty problems.  You may be able to prevent warranty problems by making sure you fulfill all maintenance requirements and keep good records.   Failure to meet stated maintenance requirements is a legitimate reason to deny coverage.   Performing proper maintenance and following usage instructions may prevent problems from occurring in the first place.  Make sure any claim you may have is not the result of abuse.  Abuse will also invalidate any warranties.  Don't expect the sporting goods store to replace your tent under warranty if you set it on fire, drive over it with your vehicle, or a bear rips it up.

My Grandmother used so say "You catch more flies with honey than with vinegar" meaning you stand a better chance of getting cooperation if you're nice and not nasty.  This definitely applies to negotiating solutions to purchase problems.   Some companies go out of their way to assist their customers but a nasty approach may cause them to become defensive  and to take a strong "stick to the contract" stance.   I've had a couple of extraordinary experiences that bear mentioning to the credit of the companies involved.  First was a clearly out-of-warranty problem I had with a Fantasic Roof Vent for my RV.  It came with a one year warranty and somewhere in the second or third year of ownership, the fan failed and I traced it to a problem in the circuit board.  I phoned the company to see if I could purchase a replacement circuit board.  I explained my situation, including the age of the unit, and was very pleasantly surprised when they voluntarily sent upgraded replacement parts to me at no cost!  Along the same lines, I purchased a Camp Chef stove on close out from Big 5 Sporting Goods, knowing that the regulator was missing.  A call to Camp Chef to purchase the right regulator resulted in them sending it to me at no cost! In each case they also covered the cost of the parts and shipping.  In return I've happily provided hundreds of recommendations to fellow campers.

Submitting your claim.  When you do have a warranty issue, you need to submit your claims properly.  Make sure you have all the required documentation (purchases receipts, warranty documents, repair receipts, forms, etc).  Be sure you are within all time constraints -- that the claim occurred within the warranty period and you are in compliance with the time frames required for notification between the event and filing the claim.  Then write a clear, concise letter describing your claim -- what happened, what you've done so far, and what you are asking for under the warranty. Failure to provide required documentation is a frequent and legitimate basis for turning down claims. Make sure you submit the claim to the right place.   Sending a manufacturer's warranty to the dealer will, at best, delay processing and could result in the claim not even being looked at.  Likewise, submitting a dealer warranty to the manufacturer is also a waste of time.

Success!  By complying with all the terms and conditions of your warranty you greatly increase your chances of success.   Failure to meet any of the terms and conditions can be legitimate grounds for your claim to be denied.  Always make sure you've done  your part before blaming the seller or the manufacturer.

Case closed!

Domestic Tips for Campers

How is housekeeping in your RV or tent any different from housekeeping at home?  Good question.   In many ways, it isn't.  You still need to make the beds, do the dishes, dust, sweep the floors, clean the bathroom, and clean the windows.  Yet each of these tasks is in some way unique in an RV.  Tent campers will find things even more varied.  One big problem is, we like to take a vacation from chores when we're on vacation.  And that is not a good idea.   Putting off routine chores will eventually waste more time catching up than it takes to keep them up to date as you go. And life will be more pleasant if you keep things neat and clean and your gear and equipment will last longer.  A friend of mine said her mother taught her that ''If your beds are made and your dishes are done, your house is clean".  That might be little over-simplified, but it is still a good basic practice in camp as well as at home.

Establish daily and weekly routines.  Routines will help you prevent things from getting out of control.  A few minutes completing your routine each day will keep you organized and free to enjoy your planned activities.  Not all tasks need to be done every day so having a weekly schedule will help keep everything in order.  Your routine at home might serve as a starting point for building your camp schedule.  Things like making beds and doing dishes are inherently daily tasks.  Other cleaning efforts might be done less frequently but should not be ignored.  The main thing is to have some kind of routine so things don't fall through the cracks and go undone until they reach an unacceptable level of disarray and/or dirtiness.

Making the beds.  The bed in the "master bedroom" in many RVs isn't much different than the one at home -- unless it is jammed up against the wall.  If it is, you'll need to master techniques for climbing up on the bed and pulling the bedding into place.   Same holds true for the cab-over beds in campers and Class C motorhomes.   Some people like to use a stick or the awning wand to push bedding into the far corners of these corner beds but I find it is usually easier to just straighten up the sheets and blankets, then kneel on the bed and tuck the bedding neatly under the far edges, then climb off and pull the bedding tight as I go.   Other beds are usually part of a dinette or sofa.  That means you have to get out the bedding and "make the bed" each night, then remove all the bedding and put it away every morning.   Dinette cushions have to be rearranged to create the bed and restored for day time use.  Sofas have to be opened up to their sleep positions and closed again in the morning.  Making the beds when tent camping will mostly consist of hanging out the sleeping bags for a couple of hours, then either rolling them up or putting them back in place.  I prefer to leave them out so they don't lose their "loft" by being squished in a stuff sack.  Letting them hang in the fresh air is always a good idea, weather permitting.   Make up your beds every morning.

Doing the dishes.  Unless you're like my daughter, who is a fanatic about saving water and has a REALLY good dishwasher, you're probably in the habit of rinsing the crud off your dishes before washing them.  Water conservation is very important in an RV, especially when you're boondocking. Instead of pre-rinsing the dishes, wipe them off with a paper towel or a crumpled newspaper.   To avoid a lot of elbow grease to clean greasy, sticky pots and pans, do dump a little water in them while they're still warm, before the crud has time to bake on.  Notice I said "dump", not "run".  You should be saving the water while running the shower to get it warm.  Catch it in a plastic dishpan or even an old bleach jug.  The jug will be less likely to get spilled.   Then use the saved water to rinse your dishes.  Use a good quality dish soap.   Cheap brands won't cut the grease as well and you may have to change water more often , wasting water -- as well as wasting time scrubbing stubborn items.   High quality, concentrated soap will also save space since it usually comes in a smaller bottle and you don't need as much per use.   Doing the dishes while tent camping also requires conservation of water, unless there is a dishwasher station with running water in the camp ground and while you probably won't run out of water there, it is still good camping protocol to conserve water and limit how long you tie up the sink.  Wash your dishes after every meal.   If you clean up after yourself as you prepare your meals, you'll have fewer dishes to do at the end.   Clean dishes will help prevent "the runs".   One really easy way of doing dishes when camping is to use paper plates and cups and plastic utensils which can just be thrown away.

Dust is likely to blow in every time you open the door or to come through windows and roof vents, or just sneak in through cracks.  The "weep holes" at the bottom of windows may let dust in.  The massive dashboards on some big motorhomes are huge dust collectors.  Dust will settle on counters, tables, and cabinets.  I like to use a spray furniture polish on just about every hard surface but the vinyl dashboard.  If you're seriously eco-minded, use a pump rather than a pressurized can.   I use SC-1, the same detailing spray I use on my dirt bikes, on all the vinyl surfaces.  Be sure to vacuum upholstery, carpets, and beds too, since dust settles on them as easily as it does on hard surface -- it just doesn't show up as much!  Dust will soil the fabric and can cause stale odors.  You won't notice the dust in your tent as much, but it will still collect on exposed surfaces and needs to be be taken care of. Y our sleeping bags should get a thorough dusting each morning when you hang them to air out and dry.   Other gear should be dusted off at least once a week or more often in windy/dusty conditions.

Sweeping the floors isn't much different from doing it at home.   Hard surfaces can be quickly swept with a broom, carpets should be vacuumed often.  By nature, most camping areas are somewhat rustic and you'll track in a lot of dirt and sand.   Left on hard surfaces it will destroy the luster.  Left in carpet it will soil the fabric and begin to cut the threads as you walk on it.   Some big RVs have central vacuum systems.  A nice compact canister vacuum is sufficient and perhaps ideal for most RVs that don't have central vacuums.  Uprights are heavy and take up a lot of room.  I've tried using manual "carpet sweepers" and they are handy for quick cleanups but do not get the grit up out of the fibers.  With some light dome tents you can pick them up and shake them to get rid of loose dirt and debris.  For heavier tents or ones that are anchored to the ground, you'll need to sweep them out often. Keep a rug or an old burlap bag near the entrance to your tent or RV to clean your feet to reduce how much crud you track inside.  You can buy short "camp" brooms or simple cut down the handle on an old broom from home.   A bench brush, like you use on your workbench is small and is pretty good for sweeping out tents.

Cleaning the bathroom may be even more necessary in an RV than at home because of the close quarters.  Any unpleasant odors that may develop will be quickly noticeable throughout the RV.  The biggest difference between your RV fixtures and those at home is that most RV fixtures are made of plastic so you don't want to use harsh cleansers.  Choose one of the "soft scrub" cleansers or buy the special RV cleansers at the RV store.  Using a shower spray can help control mildew in the shower. So will simply squeegeeing or drying the shower after the last use each day.   Tent campers may have to deal with public bathrooms or, in remote locations, provide their own primitive latrine facilities. Maintaining a sanitary situation is critical to good health and a safe environment. 

Cleaning the windows of your RV may actually be easier than cleaning the windows at home. Because such a large percentage of the wall space is glass, dirty windows will be obvious and embarrassing.  Any good glass cleaner should w ork just fine.  I usually keep some special "no streak" glass cleaner on board for cleaning the mirrors. It is a little costlier than ordinary glass cleaner, but it saves time keeping the mirrors looking good.  Tent windows don't usually require much cleaning, but you may still need to wipe the dust off screens now and then.   If your tent is equipped with plastic windows, be careful to use only cleaners and procedures recommended by the manufacturer to avoid damaging them.  Wiping dry dust off plastic windows can cause minute scratches that will eventually "frost" the once clear plastic.  Even screened windows in tents will benefit from an occasional dusting.

Pick up and put away is always a good practice at home and even more important in your RV or tent and around camp.  The limited space in your RV means just a few things left out of place begin to impact usability as well as appearance.  And remember, clutter begets clutter, so, if you don't let the first piece of stuff lying around, you're less likely to accumulate more.  Same thing applies to tent camping.   Keep your stuff together and well organized, both in your tent and all around your camp. Follow the old adage: "A place for everything and everything in its place."  A handy trick for corralling small items in a tent is to keep them in hanging bags.  Some tents even have small storage pockets built  it.

Cleaning supplies for camping.   If you are in an RV you can stock it with cleaning supplies in your kitchen and bathroom about like you would at home.  You may need to substitute a "soft scrub" cleanser to protect your plastic or fiberglass fixtures and over time you may find specialty cleaners you like for use in your RV.   Anti-fog mirror cleaner and "Black Streak Remover" are things I've picked up.  For tent camping, most of your cleaning tasks will focus on kitchen items so you'll need dish soap, Scotchbrite, SOS pads and dish towels.   Depending on how long you are out you may also need laundry detergent.  For either RV or tent camping you can just bring along the stuff you use at home, but sometimes the "giant economy size" containers that make sense at home are not convenient in camp.  Small, unopened containers will take up less room and are less likely to spill.   Fortunately you can probably stock up on just about everything you need at your local dollar store.   Get name brands when you can, but don't be afraid to try their "house" brands.   My wife has found many of the house brands from Dollar Tree to be equal to or better than the name brands.  I suggest you do try them out before you head out on an extended outing and are dependent on them.  You don't want to be out in the boondocks when you discover someone in the family is allergic to the new laundry detergent or that the dish soap doesn't cut it.   Having inexpensive products to use may encourage you to use them while you might be a bit stingy and might have a tendency to limit using pricey products. 

If you can't get small sizes, consider getting travel size containers to use instead of filling up you RV cabinets or camp bins with big bottles of cleaning supplies.   You can often find empty travel size bottles at your local dollar store. 

Clean it up!

RV, OHV, Camping and Boating Communications

Communications enroute, around camp, on the waterand on the trail, are important.  Today's cell phones work pretty well in populated areas and even along most highways.   Sometimes they even work surprisingly well in remote locations, but hand-held CB, FRS or GMRS radios are a good addition for camping, hiking, and OHV trips, especially if you're headed off the beaten path and out of cell phone coverage.  The addition of an external cell phone antenna may improve reception and transmission, but make sure your phone is compatible with the antenna connector.   I have an external cell phone antenna on my motorhome that worked well with previous phones but my current model doesn't have an external antenna connector.  HAM radios are bit more expensive and require training and licensing but have a much greater range than FRS and GMRS radios.  Be aware that virtually all radio communications are "line-of-sight".   If you're in one valley and the person you're trying to communicate is over the hill in the next one, you probably aren't going to have much luck.  Short wave (HAM) radios can sometimes take advantage of something called "skip", where signals bounce off layers in the upper atmosphere and can reach over the horizon, but for most applications you need a pretty clear path between transmitter and receiver for reliable communications.  Of course, these days, cell phones are pretty ubiquitous and can provide communication between vehicles in a convoy and between camp sites.  You might even be able to make emergency calls out on the trail, but remember, cell phones depend on being within range of a cell tower.  While cell towers cover most cities and even most regularly used highways, you may find coverage lacking in remote mountain and desert areas where you go camping, riding, or  hiking.  Marine environments use special radio frequencies and special radios tuned to those frequencies.  If you do any off-short boating you are going to want good two-way marine radio communication.  Most marine radios include features that will aid rescuers in locating your boat in an emergency.  You may use CB, HAM, and FRS/GMRS radios for short range communications between boats in a group like you would among campers.

Not all communications have to be two-way communications.  A good NOAA weather radio can be an extremely valuable addition to your camping communications gear.   These specialized radios provide continuous local weather forecasts and alerts.  Any good radio can usually provide news, traffic, and weather updates.  Even a good am/fm portable radio can normally bring you news and weather alerts.  Sometimes the radio signals will bounce of parts of the atmosphere but they are usually "line of sight" and mountains or other obstacles will sometimes block reception.  Modern satellite radio systems take advantage of transmitters on orbiting satellites so they usually work just about anywhere above ground.

I recently saw an ad for a multi-band radio that include VHF, CB, Ham, AM and FM all in one unit.   Such a radio would certainly provide the most flexibility for remote communications, but they are a bit pricey:  around $500!  Nice thing to put on the wish list.

On the road.   CB radios are still used by over-the-road truckers and can be easily added to just about any vehicle to provide convenient communications between vehicles enroute.   Hand held versions avoid the need for permanent antennas and wiring to a 12-volt power source.  By the way, RVs, because of their fiberglass bodies, may require a special No Ground Plane antenna.  The range of CB radios is limited to a few miles, but should be more than adequate for most RV "convoys".  CBs have up to 40 different channels. Some channels have been designated for specific purposes. Channel 9 is reserved for emergency communications.  Channel 19 is the channel usually used by over-the-road truckers and an excellent source of traffic and road conditions on most major highways.  Truckrs sometimes use Channel 17 on North-South Highways and Channel 19 on East-West routes.  Channel 19 is dead center of the CB band and is where antennas are frequently most efficient.   Channel 13 is the "RV" channel, and good place to listen for other RVers.  You can choose any of the other channels for more personal communications for your group.  It may take some searching to find an unused or lightly used channel.   Hand held FRS or GMRS walkie-talkies are good for in camp and trail communications.  FRS (Family Radio Service) is what is used by inexpensive and toy walkie talkies and has a more limited power and range than GMRS (General Mobile Radio Service), which uses more power and has a longer range -- but you have to have license to use GMRS.  FRS and CB do not require a license.  For added convenience on the trail, a headset provide hands-free operation.  Though somewhat pricey, "Sidewinder" brand radios are about the most convenient way to communicate with fellow riders on the trial.  These attach to your helmet and can be voice activated.  Be careful using voice activated units.   You're likely to broadcast some unintentional expletives when something goes wrong or surprises you!  I've had good success with ordinary walkie-talkie type FRS radios by tucking them in my Cambelbak and using a pu st-to-talk microphone and earphones under my helmet.  Again, the range is not great, but is usually more than adequate for keeping a group together on the trail and sometimes can even reach back to base camp so it can be useful to have someone monitoring your frequency back there in case of an emergency. We've even used them between groups out on the trails to coordinate emergency services when one of the riders was injured.

Other forms of communication can also be useful.   I may owe my life to a little-known trucker's signal.  I observed a truck driver speeding down the opposite side of the freeway toward me, flashing his lights 3 times over and over and giving three blasts on his air horn as he passed by.  Within a few minutes I encountered a wrong-way driver coming down my side of the freeway like a bat out of hell! The trucker's warning had put me on high alert so I detected the oncoming driver approaching in my lane in time to move over out of his way.  I admire that truck driver for his thoughtful efforts to warn people of the impending danger.  I may even owe him my life!  This was in the days before cell phones.   I pulled off at the next exit and called the State Police, whose tired response was "Where is he now?"  Obviously I wasn't the first one to report the wrong way driver and he had been southbound in the northbound lanes for at least 25 or 30 miles.  Speaking of wrong way drivers, a Highway Patrol friend of mine offered the following advice:   Do not drive in the fast lane of the freeway at night, especially on holidays when alcohol consumption is high, like on New Year's Eve. If you get a wrong way driver (like the one I encountered), he's probably going to be staying to his right, thinking he is being extra safe.   That puts him in the fast lane when he's on the wrong side of the freeway!  My friend says this tidbit was passed on to him by his trainer early in his career, and just minutes later after moving out of the fast lane, he encountered a wrong way driver right where his trainer said he'd be: coming down the fast lane.  When they finally apprehended the guy miles later he insisted the cops had lifted his car over the concrete center divider so it would look like he was driving on the wrong side. I know cops are tough, but not THAT tough!

Some classes of radio communication require special licensing by the FCC.  CB radios used to require a license but no longer do. FRS radios (Family Radio Service) do not require a special license. Range is about 2 miles. GMRS (General Mobile Radio Service) offers greater range on some channels but does require an FCC license for the higher powered channels.  A single GMRS license covers the holder and his/her immediate family for personal or business purposes.   Last time I checked the GMRS license cost $85.00 and was good for 5 years.   Some GMRS channels are shared with the FRS service and can be used without a license if you don't exceed the legal transmission power (many GMRS radios have "power save" options that operate at the FRS power, using them at higher power requires a GMRS license).  For long range communications you may need an amateur radio (HAM radio) and license.  HAM radios can sometimes take advantage of repeaters -- automated stations that re-transmit your signal, to extend the range.   You can often get HAM radios classes free from local HAM clubs or educational institutions.  The license itself costs $14.00 and is good for 10 years before they have to be renewed.  Hand-held radios can be purchased for as little as $45 but a good "base station" and antenna setup can cost hundreds of dollars.  Hand helds or mobile radios will be the most useful for camping and caravaning.

Hand signals are useful on the trail.  Ordinary driver's hand signals communicate intentions when turning and stopping and can be very useful in keeping everyone in a group on the right track.  Left arm extended straight out from the shoulder:  left turn.  Left arm held at the square:  right turn.   Left arm held down:  stop.  Left arm  waving as if patting toward the ground:  slow down.  Another helpful signal aids safety when approaching riders coming from the other direction.  Hold up your free hand displaying the number of vehicles behind you in your group.   If there are more than 5, hold up an open hand.  Raise a closed fist, with the fingers facing out, if you are the last rider.   This tells oncoming traffic how many riders to expect.   Don't display your fist with the back of the hand out as that can be interpreted as an aggressive gesture.  Thumbs up and thumbs down have specific meanings so avoid using them in the ordinary "OK/Not OK" sense.   Thumbs up means a crashed rider is back up. Thumbs down means he is down and can't get up.  A simple wave of one hand high over head, like waving "hello", is usually used to indicate "OK".  Low waving of one hand about knee level indicates "not OK".  Avoid low waving of both hands as it is often misinterpreted by baseball fans as "SAFE".

Hand signals can be helpful in camp too, especially when backing into a tight spot.   A closed hand with a thumb extended like you were hitchhiking can be used to show the driver which way the back end of the RV needs to go.  A closed fist means stop.  Slapping the side of the RV means STOP NOW!  You can indicate the driver needs to keep backing up by waving you hand in a "come hither" manner.  Then quickly raise your and and close your fist when they should stop.  Another useful gesture is to indicate the remaining distance by holding  your hands apart facing each other and bringing them closer together as the gap closes.  It helps the driver judge how much further he/she needs to go.  Hand signals avoid the problems of trying to yell commands and disturbing fellow campers.  Two-way radios will let you carry on necessary conversation without yelling but can still be surprisingly loud in a quiet campground.

Though not commonly used any more, flashing Morse code and semaphores (flags) CAN be used to communicate between camps, on the water, and on the trail.   There are marine flags with specific meanings you should be aware of when boating.  They will alert you to water skiers in the water, disabled craft, medical emergencies, out of fuel, and dangerous conditions.   One Morse code signal that IS still frequently used is "S O S", an internationally recognized plea for help.  This consists of three short flashes, three long flashes, and three short long flashes (... --- ...) .   In popular usage, SOS became associated with such phrases as "save our ship", "save our souls" and "send out succour".  These may be regarded as useful mnemonics, but SOS is not an abbreviation, acronym or initialism.  According to the Oxford English Dictionary (2nd ed.), the letters were chosen merely because they are easily transmitted and recognized in Morse code.  When transmitted in Morse code they are often run together (...---...) instead of being sent as separate letters.  Morse code can easily be sent as flashes of light or as sounds.  You can even send Morse code by beating on a hollow log or banging two rocks together -- three quick hits, three slow hits, three quick hits, spells S O S. An ordinary whistle is a good emergency communication device. You won't ruin your voice yelling and it carries well to alert rescuers to your location. You can whistle "SOS" or just give 3 loud, evenly spaced whistles periodically. The three blasts and rhythmic timing helps distinguish your signal from bird calls or other natural sounds like wind or creaking trees.

Parking an RV sometimes requires two people:   one to drive and one to watch where the vehicle is backing, especially when backing into a confined space.   See the previous paragraph "Hand signals can be helful in camp too".   Two way radios are very helpful here although well understood hand signals can often suffice.   DON'T just try yelling!  It will annoy your fellow campers and will probably not do very much good anyway.  A good "emergency stop" signal is to slap the side of the RV hard.  The driver will be able hear it and can stop and discuss the situation before any damage occurs.

Stop and talk.  Whenever you are traveling in a group -- in vehicles, on OHVs or just hiking -- it is a good idea to stop and talk face to face now and then.  You can check the status of fellow travelers or riders, alert associates to where you're going next, and adjust routes as needed when special circumstances arise.  It is always better to catch any emerging medical or mechanical problems in the group as soon as possible.  When on the trail you can check everyone's ability to identify the way back to camp and help them learn landmarks and trail tips that can help them find their way back if they get separated from the group.  It is also a good idea to stop and talk periodically when you're in a RV or other vehicular convoy.  Regular rest stops keep drivers fresher and more alert and stops give you a chance to socialize with members of your group and discuss any special needs or wants and plan additional food, fuel, and recreation stops and let the group address the concerns of anyone who is uncomfortable with the pace or the route.

Boats have their own visual and audio signals that you should be familiar with if you are out on the water.  Navigation lights can  help you determine which way a boat is moving relative to your position.  Boats have red lights on the port (left) side and green lights on the starboard (right side) and a white light visible from the rear.  Sailboats might also display white light visible from the front and higher than the navigation lights to indicate they are under auxiliary (motor) power at night.  A white light high up and visible all round (360 degrees) at night indicates a boat is at anchor.  Boats use audio signals (horns, whistles) to signal how they intend to pass each other.  They use short and long blasts, with a short blast being about 1 second long and long blast being 4-6 seconds long.  One short blast means I want to pass you on my port (left) side.  Two short blasts mean I want to pass you on my starboard (right) side.  Three short blast means I am backing up.  Five short blasts means danger or you disagree with the other boater's intentions.  One long blast is used in low visibility, like fog or coming around a blind corner.  Sailboats should use one long blast followed by two short blasts in limited visibility.  Since sailboats maneuver and respond differently than power boats it is useful to know if the boat approaching is a sailboat so you can be better prepared and allow greater space or reaction time.  A sailboat operating under auxiliary power is considered to be a power boat and must obey all the rules for power boats.  Boats also use flags.  Some of the most common are the Alpha Flag (blue and white) for diver down deep in the water, Whiskey Flag (blue with white and red concentric squares) for medical emergency and need help, an orange flag for water skier down, and a distress flag (orange with a black square and black circle).  The Alpha and Whiskey flags each represent letters in the alphabet, A and W respectively.  Boats may also use "day shapes", recognizable shapes that are displayed to indicated a sailboat under power (an inverted black cone) or a boat at anchor (black ball).

Talk it up!

Things for Campers To Do In The Winter

Let's face it.  Most of us don't do much camping in winter.  True, there are a few die hards who take their RVs skiing, snowmobiling, or ice fishing, but when the colder weather hits, most of us park the RVs or pack the tent and camping gear away for the winter.

Winter doesn't mean you have to put away the tent or RV and forget about it until next summer.   If you feel adventurous and prepare properly, there are opportunities for winter camping. You might go skiing or snowmobiling or just try riding your ATV or dirt bike in the snow.   I haven't found dirt bikes very much fun in the snow, but ATVs are cool, especially if they have 4WD.   I've seen guys use spiked tires on dirt bikes to get traction in the snow and ice, but mostly dirt bikes are pretty skittish on the white stuff.  You can spend a weekend or two in your tent or RV in a campground enjoying winter activities if you have properly prepared for it.   Chances are you won't find it crowded!   Skiing, sledding, snowball fights, building an igloo, ice skating, ice fishing, and snowmobiling are all fun things to do in the winter and most can benefit from a good base camp.   If you're taking out your RV in sub-freezing temperatures you'll HAVE to protect any exposed water or sewer lines, holding tanks, and dump valves or suffer messy and expensive freeze damage, and for your own comfort and heating efficiency, make sure your furnace is functioning properly and seal any sources of drafts and heat loss.  Roof vents and windows can transfer a lot of your precious warmth directly to the outdoors so protect them with proper covers.  There are vinyl covers to snap over the inside of roof vents or pillows that stuff into them and exterior covers for windshields and windows. A less expensive and even more effective solution and one that can be installed easily without facing winter weather outside is to cut bubble-foam insulation panels to fit inside every window and vent. The insulation can be purchased in bulk rolls from RV stores and even hardware stores and home centers.   It is easy to cut and stiff enough to stay in place if you cut it slightly larger than the opening for a tight fit.  It is effective when used on windows, windshields, and roof vents to reduce heat loss.  Sometimes you can find windshield inserts at your local dollar store, making it really inexpensive to cover most windows.  The same covers can be used in the summer time to keep your vehicle cooler so they're a good year-round investment.  They are light weight and take up little room.  If you're tent camping, make sure you have sleeping bags that are adequate for the temperatures you'll encounter, a good tent heater, plenty of firewood, and proper clothing.   Those summer sleeping bags that were comfortable in June, July, and August are going to leave you cold in October through March.  You might want to bring along an extra tarp or two. You'll definitely want one as a ground cloth.  Putting one over your tent can help keep it warm(er) and dry(er).  The same bulk bubble insulation recommended for RV windows can be used to insulate beneath your sleeping bags or even to provide heat reflection around the inside walls of your tent if you've a mind to. Its a little bulky to carry around for tent camping but it might be well worth the effort for the extra comfort.  Another couple of options for insulating your tent floors includes rubber anti-fatigue mats and solar swimming pool bubble covers.

Water hoses need special care in the winter.  Be sure to drain them completely after use so they won't freeze in storage.   The proportionally large surface area of the hose will conduct heat out of the water inside and it will freeze more quickly than water in holding tanks or even pools of standing water outside.  Since water expands as it freezes, it will split your hose -- and  your pipes -- when it freezes. If you're using full hookups you'll want to wrap your hose and the exposed pipe with heat tape.  If you leave an unprotected hose attached to the faucet you will likely find yourself liable for the cost of repairs, and it ain't cheap.

If you want to try winter camping, spend a night or two in your RV or tent at home to get used to winter conditions and develop your skills.  That way, if you find you aren't properly prepared, you can retreat into the house and try it again after making appropriate adjustments in your outdoor accommodations.  Practice your fire making and camp cooking skills.   Far better to learn some hard lessons BEFORE you need them in a remote location.  Building a fire in or on the snow is going to be harder than on dry ground.

Still don't want to go camping in cold weather?  You still don't have to abandon your affinity for camping altogether.   In fact, winter is a good time to take inventory of your camping equipment and supplies and to clean, repair or replace, and organize it for use next season.  There are also many vicarious experiences available.   Watch re-runs of Surviorman to hone your survival skills or seek out local camping shows.  You might also invest some time in reviewing new developments in camping equipment and check out alternate locations and/or activities for next year.  Build up your store of knowledge.  Look up information about your favorite or planned destinations.  Learn about historical and geological events at or near your routes and destinations.  Expand your knowledge of things you may encounter while camping: weather, astronomy, geology, plants, animals, historical and geological events are all interesting topics for afternoon walks and campfire conversations.  The Internet is a gold mine of information. So is your local library and ranger stations near your home or your destinations.  Take time to give your OHV or other equipment some special TLC.   I sometimes spend hours in the garage going over my dirt bike, taking time to detail it more completely than I have time for after a summer ride.  When it is time to take it out again it looks like new and I'm confident every fastener is secure and everything is properly adjusted and lubricated.  Every control works smoothly and any damaged parts have been repaired or replaced.   Makes me better prepared for that first ride next summer.   I also like to go through all my riding gear and repair or replace any damaged items, make sure everything is clean and ready to use, and is properly stored in my trailer where I can find it when the time comes.  Go through your closets, cabinets, camping bins, and tool boxes.  Replace missing or damaged items. Check expiration dates of provisions and medicines and replace outdated items.  Replace any depleted supplies.  Look for things you haven't used all summer and lighten the load if you can.  Make sure all your tools and utensils are clean, in good condition, and in their proper place.   Inventory your provisions and replace and spoiled, depleted, and outdated items.  Review your camping wardrobe.  Clean and repair clothing as necessary and put away an unneeded items that may have made their way into your closet, drawers, or duffle bag over the last season.

Look for movies or TV shows about camping.  Or watch your own home movies from previous outings.  These presentations can provide nice vicarious experiences to tide you over until next summer and often will be educational as well.   Now is a good time to read up on camping skills you've been wanting to develop.   Make a list of things you want to learn and look for training and practice opportunities.  ou may want to plan some outings next season to exercise specific new talents.

Get together with your camping buddies for non-camping activities.  We've had many fun times with our Desert Rat group such as BBQs, birthday parties, and Superbowl parties.   Not only do you have a chance to rehash your shared RV and OHV activities, you get to see your friends in a different environment and get to know them better.   It can also provide a forum for planning next year's activities.  Chances are very good that you'll enjoy their company as much around the TV, BBQ, or dinner table as you do around the campfire.

Take time to look for service projects you can participate in or organize your own.   Most projects will be during the camping season so put them on your calendar now so you can plan for them.  There may be some preparatory activities that don't have to wait until the weather is good such welding up fire rings or making signs or assembling picnic tables to be distributed later in the year can be done at any time.  Placement of signs is usually a fair weather activity, but painting and assembling signs is a good winter project.  Winter is also a good time for you to organize your own service project for your family or organization.  You will need to coordinate with the appropriate land managers and arrange for required equipment, permits, facilities and publicity.  I have found that most local OHV dealers are happy to lend their support for service projects in the form of donated prizes to reward participants.  I encourage several small contributions rather than one large one.  It is usually easier for the dealers and it allows me to reward more volunteers.  It takes a lot of time to organize a good service project so start early.  You can run into an amazing and frustrating amount of red tape when dealing with government organizations.   I was really surprised (and angry) when we were once asked to pay for a permit and charge $5.00 per person to perform a volunteer cleanup project in one popular off road area.  Good grief, Charlie Brown!  We're volunteering to assist the land managers and they want us to pay for the privilege?  Yeah, right!  Like THAT'S going to happen.  Fortunately, one of the more creative rangers came up with a way for them to co-sponser the event and avoid fees.

Examine and inventory all your camping, RVing, and OHVing tools and equipment.  The so-called "off season" is a good time to check out your stuff.  Clean and organize things.  Repair or replace worn out or damaged tools and equipment.  I once brought my dirt bike into the garage and detailed it until it looked brand new.  Yeah, that's probably overkill, but it was a better way to spend my winter evenings than slouching in front of the TV watching some sitcom that insults my meager intelligence.  If you're into riding horses or OHVs, now is a good time to clean and repair your gear.  Leather goods, like boots, saddles, and bridles, can usually use a good cleaning with saddle soap and an application of a leather protector like Leather Balm.  Clean your helmets while there is plenty of time for the cushy lining to dry out before you will need them again.  They usually need it after a season of sweaty hot weather riding.

Make a list of the things you'd like to get done during the "off" season.  The list might include taking inventory of provisions and supplies, reviewing and reorganizing your on board wardrobe, checking your tools and utensils, cleaning and repairing upholstery and flooring, installing new equipment or fixtures, servicing lanterns and camp stoves, detailing your OHVs, checking your riding gear, inventory your spare parts and supplies.  Be sure to go over your regular pre-trip checklist too to be sure everything is ship shape for your first outing next season.  You'll find it rewarding to get it done now when there is less pressure to hit the road.  Now may also be a good time to review and update your checklists.  Are there items that are no longer relevant?  Are there new things that need to be checked?  Look for suggested checklists on the Internet and take advantage of other people's experience to improve  your own.

Stock up on camping and RV supplies and accessories.  Being an off-season can bring good deals on both new and used equipment and gear.  Re-read some of your RV and camping magazines to review new gadgets and see if there are any that appeal to you.  Winter is a good time to install accessories inside your RV or update some of your tent camping equipment.  Advances in technology often provide upgrades that are lighter, more durable, more convenient, more efficient, and/or have more functions than current models.  Watch the flyers from sporting goods stores and stop by and check out their clearance tables.  Review online resources like ebay, craigslist, and your local classified ads. Keep your eyes open as you drive by garage sales.  You won't see as many as during the summer, but they can still be a good source of bargains.

Day dream!   Yeah, you heard me right.  Day dream.  Create ideal camping dreams in your head.  Not only will it be fun and entertaining, it may help you design some new and exciting adventures for next season!

Don't become a winter couch potato!

Some General Repair Tips For RVs, Boats, and Camping

RVs, boats, OHVs, and various camping gear and equipment are all going to require repairs from time to time.  Whether you're facing a major project like rebuilding the engine in your RV or tow vehicle, or just replacing a worn pump gasket on a camp stove, there are some basic principles you should follow.  If you don't work on the specific equipment you're tackling quite regularly, you're going to need to keep track of parts as you go -- where they come from, and where you put them -- so you can put it all back together.  All too often, repairs to recreational equipment tend to get pushed to the bottom of our "to do" lists, making it even harder to remember where things went when we finally get do around to completing the task.  We often have to disassemble things before we can figure out what parts are needed for the repair, then it takes time to get the new parts, introducing delays before we can put them back together.  The less familiar you are with the equipment or the specific repair, the more careful and detailed you need to be as you take it apart.  Small boxes and plastic containers (like old margarine cups) are handy.  Small parts can be saved in plastic bags and labeled so you know exactly where they came from.   Diagrams or photos can also be helpful.  Be sure to take advantage of the camera in your smart phone!  It may seem like overkill when you're taking something apart, but you'll really be glad you did it when you try to put it back together a month or so later.   Sometimes it is a good idea to number parts as you take them off so you can put them back in the same order when you put it back together.   Internet access provides a wonderful source of information for many unfamiliar projects.  You can often find a Youtube video that will take you through common repairs step by step.  If  you can't find ready made help you may be able to ask for assistance in a relevant forum.

Take some pictures.  With today's digital cameras and even cameras in cell phones it is really easy to take photos of a project BEFORE you take things apart.  These BEFORE photos can be invaluable when it comes time to put it back together.   Modern vehicles, even OHVs, contain a maze of tubes, cables, wires, and connectors that can be extremely frustrating to put back together if you're not familiar with them, especially if your project extends past a day or two or you experience a "senior moment" now and then.  Photos or even hand-drawn diagrams and notes will be worth more than their weight in gold.   Or invest in some labels to attach to both sides of a connection so you KNOW easily and exactly where it goes when the time comes.  Or make your own labels from little pieces of masking tape.  I prefer to use blue painter's tape so it comes off easily when I'm ready and it doesn't leave residual adhesive on the components.  Shop manuals are available for most vehicles, some even free of charge on the Internet.  Most offer helpful tips about dis-assembly and reassembly as well as necessary technical specifications such as tightening patterns and torque specs.  Wiring diagrams and vacuum hose routing layouts can aid in diagnosis and save a lot of time putting things back together.

Organize your parts and fasteners as you remove them.   I like to clean all the nuts and bolts and small parts as I take them off and keep them in a plastic container like a margarine cup so they don't get lost.  Plastic bags are another good way to keep things straight.  You can write a description of the contents directly on the bag or on a label attached to the bag.   Cleaning them before you store them keeps dirty parts from contaminating not so dirty parts and makes putting things back together easier. It also gives you chance to examine the threads, look for wear, cracks, etc, and determine if any of the small parts need to be replaced.  Why waste time fighting a bolt with damaged threads or a stripped head.   Items like that can usually be replaced without much cost and will save a lot of assembly time and frustration and ensure proper assembly, fit,  and performance.  Rusty, damaged, or corroded bolts will prevent you from getting a proper torque measurement when tightened and attempting to reinstall them may cause early failure or further damage to the components they attach.

Keep your work are neat and clean.  There are often spilled fluids when working on RVs and OHVs and even some camping equipment.  Clean it up right away so it doesn't create a slip hazard or contaminate other components or equipment.   Some fluids present slip hazards and some may be toxic.  Some emit toxic or flammable vapors.   Use boxes or bins to organize and store related parts as you disassemble things.   It helps keep them clean, keeps all the related parts together, and avoids them getting lost.  If you mop up spilled cleaning fluids, like gasoline or solvent, be sure to dispose of the rags safely.   Left in a pile they can spontaneously ignite.   Put them in an air tight container, burn them right away, or hang them out to dry in a well-ventilated area.

Keep your tools clean and organized.   I highly recommend putting them away at the end of each work period, even if you plan to return to the project fairly soon.  It only takes a few minutes and, whether you get back to the project right away or not, your tools are properly stored for any task that may come up.  Its a lot easier to remember where things normally "live" than to remember where you left them last.   This practice also helps you avoid losing tools.  If something has been misplaced, it is usually easier to locate it right away when you remember where you were using it instead of searching for it hours, days, weeks, or months later.  I keep my tools out while I'm actively working on a project, but if I have to leave, even for an hour or so, I like to put everything away.  My kids think I'm OCD about it, but it works.

Some tasks require specialized tools.  Sometimes they are quite expensive so you probably won't be adding them to your own toolbox.  Many auto parts chain stores offer free use of specialized tools for mechanical repairs.  For other situations you may have to canvas your friends and associates to see if anyone has what you need or give in to having a professional do the job.  Having the right tools makes almost any job relatively pleasant while having the wrong tools can turn even the simplest task into a nightmare.

Inspect all parts as you disassemble something for repairs.  You may find components that are worn, damaged, bent, or out of adjustment.  You might as well replace them now since it won't take any additional labor -- and it will improve the overall results.

Use proper adhesives and lubrication when re-assembling things.  Your results will be much better.  Things will go back together easier and function better.   Simple things, like soaking the leather gasket for a lantern or camp stove pump in oil before installing it, will make a world of difference in how well it works.  Gasket adhesive will hold gaskets in place and avoid them slipping and being damaged during assembly as well as adding an extra layer of sealing.

Pay close attention to specifications.  Torque fasteners to the correct rating and in the right pattern. Using the wrong pattern or torque when tightening head bolts can result in a warped head.  Make proper adjustments to moving parts.  Adjustments may require specialized measuring tools to get them right.  Make sure all moving parts are properly lubricated.

Tent, awning, and sleeping bag repairs usually require little dis-assembly, but keep track of all components, like tent poles and stakes.  Repairing tears in fabrics may require adding a patch to reinforce the damaged area.   This is especially necessary if the edges of the tear have begun to unravel.   Some small tears can be quickly repaired with self-adhesive patches but larger ones will require sewing.  Heavy material may require the use of an awl to make holes for stitches.  On tents and awnings, apply waterproof seam sealer to any new stitching.

Seek professional advice.  These days you can get help on almost any subject via the Internet.  You may have to pay a modest fee to get a response from a qualified technician, but it is often well worth it.  Their tips can save lots of time and avoid damaging components when you don't know the proper dis-assembly procedures. 

When working on a boat take appropriate precautions to avoid dropping parts or tools into the water.  While things dropped onto the ground are sometimes hard to find, things dropped into the water are often permanently lost.

One last thing:  don't wait for catastrophic failure before making repairs.  Many times repairs will be easier and far less expensive if you catch the problem early.  A classic example is brakes. Replacing the pads on disc brakes is fairly quick, easy, and inexpensive, but if you let it go until the pads wear down to metal, they will damage the rotors which then will have to be turned or replaced. Drum brakes require a little more expertise to service, but the same principle applies: replacing the shoes BEFORE they damage the drums will be a LOT less expensive.  Letting problems go, especially on things like brakes or tires, also creates a safety hazard.  You might think metal-to-metal will still stop your vehicle, but it won't. Brakes convert the kinetic energy of the vehicle movement into heat, and metal-to-metal doesn't do that very effectively.   That is also why "riding your brakes" will reduce stopping power (sometimes to zero!).  They get so hot they can't absorb any more heat and they glaze over, making the surface of the friction material (pads or shoes) slick so they don't work at all.

Fix it right!

RV Converters and Inverters

What's the difference between converters and inverters and why should you care?  You may hear fellow RVers using these terms and often they may be using them interchangeably and incorrectly.  Why should you care?  Most RVs are equipped with a converter and many also have an inverter.  You need to know what you have and how to use each one properly to get the most out of your equipment and avoid depleting your batteries.  Both have to do with managing the coach electrical system.  Each device provides a valuable and distinct function for your RV.  So, what is the difference and why does it matter?   Converters and inverters actually perform opposite functions.

A converter converts 120-volt AC power to 12-volt DC power.  This powers the 12-volt lights and appliances in an RV when it is connected to shore power or when the generator is running instead of running down the batteries.   The converter usually includes or is located near the fuse or breaker panel.  Converters usually include a battery-charging circuit to recharge coach batteries whenever 120-volt power is available.  However, these are usually intended only for light charging to maintain batteries when the coach is in storage and they're not very good at re-charging depleted batteries.  If your converter doesn't include a good multi-stage charger, you may want to add an automatic, automotive battery charger.  This solution is usually easier, less expensive, and more effective than upgrading the internal charger in a converter.   And I confirmed that with an engineer at one of the converter manufacturers.  I had called because the charging circuit on my converter gone bad and was putting out about 18 volts and boiling my batteries.  Rather than repair or upgrade the converter, the engineer suggested I disable the charging circuit (and instructed me how to do it) and install an automatic car battery charger.  It worked very well for a long time -- until I upgraded the whole system to an Intellipower converter with Charge Wizard from Progressive Dynamics.  Still, the fastest way to recharge your batteries will likely be running your vehicle engine.  The vehicle alternator has a higher, regulated output and will usually re-charge batteries faster and safer than any converter or plug-in charger.  Gas consumption with the engine at idle will probably be about the same as running the on board generator, so there is no obvious fuel savings to using the generator, even though it has a smaller engine.  Running the vehicle at or slightly above idle should be sufficient to charge your batteries.  Another advantage to running the vehicle engine is that it will recharge the starting battery as well as the house batteries.  Replacing an existing converter may be as simple as unplugging and disconnecting the old one and connecting and plugging in the new one.  However, if the old converter is an integral part of the power panel that includes the 120 volt breakers, the installation will be more difficult and complicated.  You will need to remove all the components of the old converter without messing up the 120 volt power panel, then connect the input to a 120 volt source and the output of new converter to the supply side of the 12-volt fuse panel.

An inverter does just the opposite from a converter: it changes 12-volt DC power from your batteries into 120-volt AC power to run AC appliances.  Inverters come in a variety of sizes and with a wide range of effectiveness.  Cheap inverters create a "modified sine wave" AC power.   These may be OK for some AC appliances, but any sensitive electronics will require a "true sine wave" output to function properly.  Inverters may be small and inexpensive and plug into a 12-volt cigarette lighter style receptacle.  These may be adequate to power small appliances, even a laptop computer, and charge cell phones (if the output is "clean" enough).  I have found my cell phones charge faster using a 120 volt charger plugged into an inverter plugged into the cigarette lighter than they do using a 12-volt car charger directly .   Larger units are hard wired into the battery bank and may power several outlets or circuits in the RV.   Anytime you're using an inverter, remember the 120-volt wattage draw will be 10 times the same wattage draw for 12-volt appliances of similar amperage.  What does that mean to you?  It means your batteries will run down at least 10 times as fast running a 120-volt 10-amp appliance as they will running a 12-volt 10-amp appliance.  Appliances are usually rated in watts.  For those of you who may not remember your high school physics, watts = amps * volts.   A 10-amp, 12-volt appliance uses 120 watts.   A 10-amp, 120-volt appliances uses 1200 watts. Batteries are often rated in amp-hours.  That determines the number of hours they can deliver 1 amp at 12-volts.  That means a 12-volt deep cycle RV battery bank with a rating of 850 amp-hours, theoretically, could run a 1-amp load for 850 hours or a 10-amp load for 85 hours or an 850 amp load for 1 hour.  That same battery powering 120-volt appliances through an inverter would run a 10-amp 120-volt load for only 8.5 hours or less.   Inverters are quiet so they can be used to power TVs and other entertainment systems past allowable generator hours -- IF you have a large enough battery bank.  Inverters are not typically used to run the electric side of a refrigerator (although some monster luxury motorhomes with really huge battery banks may have that capability).  They are best used for short periods of time for discreet functions, like running the microwave for a few minutes or making coffee. If you have sufficient battery capacity, they can be used effectively to run TVs and entertainment systems during "quiet hours".   They can be used to power electric lights but since incandescent lights are about 10% efficient as lights and 90% efficient as heaters, it is not an efficient use of battery power.   Just using the regular 12-volt lights would be more efficient since there is some loss of power in changing 12-volt DC to 120-volt AC in the inverter.  Or, better yet, use gas or battery powered portable lanterns and save your batteries altogether.  If you install an inverter be sure to use the proper gauge wiring for both connections to the battery bank.  The higher the converter output, the bigger wire you will need.  A handy trick for connecting a converter is to buy a set of heavy duty automotive battery jumper cables and cut the ends off.  Add terminals to the battery ends.  Large inverters usually have screw connectors that clamp down on the bare conductor itself.  If you connect the inverter output to outlets in your RV, be sure the wiring is of the proper size.

Some inverter units include a powerful multi-stage battery charger.  Battery charging is NOT a direct function of an inverter, but is rather an additional function that is sometimes included in a unit to be able to recharge the batteries that are needed to power the inverter whenever there is shore or generator power available.   Small, plug-in units won't have a battery charging function. Large, permanently installed units might.

Installation.   Both converters and inverters generate heat and need to be installed in an area with adequate ventilation.  They may also contain relays that can spark so make sure they aren't in the same compartment with flammable liquids or gasses.  Off-gassing from charging lead-acid batteries creates hydrogen gas,  which is highly flammable.  That is what caused the famous Hindenburg disaster.  They also draw a lot of current so make sure you connect them with adequate wiring.  My son, who is an electrician, suggested using a set of #6 gauge battery jumper cables to connect our 2500 watt inverter.  The jumper cables are the right gauge and the bonded wiring makes running the wires and identifying the proper polarity for the connections much easier.   Be aware that there are cheap jumper cables that are much smaller than #6 wires, so make sure you get the right ones.

Inverter use.  Always make sure inverter is disconnected when using your generator or shore power.  OEM installations will have a switch that only connect the inverter or the power from the 120-volt panel.  If the inverter is connected along with another power source it can burn out the inverter.

Maintenance.  Converters and inverters require little maintenance.   There are usually no user-servicable internal parts.  They both require adequate ventilation to avoid over-heating so don't use their cabinets for storage and keep all vents clear and occasionally remove any accumulated dust and lint from the cooling fins and vents.  It is a good idea to periodically check all the electrical connections.   Road vibration may cause connections to loosen.   Loose connections may cause arcing which will result in poor or intermittent performance and could cause a fire.  With proper care and usage both converters and inverters should last many years in normal service.  Output circuits from a convertor are usually distributed through a fuse panel.   If any circuit stops working, be sure to check to see that the fuse is securely in place and has not been blown.

Converter, inverter is definitely NOT like Po-tay-to, po-tah-to, or even Po-tay-to, To-may-to; the difference is more like the difference between dogs and cats.

Camping and RVing -- Keep It Interesting

Will you ever get tired of camping, RVing, or OHVing?  Probably not!   Partly just because every outing is different and it is so darn much fun but another contributing factor is the variety of activities and destinations that are available to you.  You might get tired of your outings if you always go to the same camp ground, eat the same meals, participate in the same activities, and ride or hike the same trails.  For more than 30 years we camped and rode our dirt bikes in the Mojave desert without getting bored. We chose a different base camp for each holiday weekend, which automatically varied the scenery and the trails we would be riding.  Although there were a handful of families that made up the core of our "Desert Rat" group, the rest of the group varied at each outing, further adding variety to the event.   Meals were planned uniquely for each outing so dining was never dull.   We got to know the trails around each base camp pretty well, but never tired of riding them.  Sometimes riding or  hiking a familiar trails is just what you need.  And it was always fun to share favorite trails with new comers to the group.  If nothing else it can be entertaining watching them learn to negotiate some of the trickier spots you have mastered over time.

Vary your routine.  There is no good reason to keep doing the same thing over and over until you tire of it.  There are always alternatives.  Try out a different camp ground or base camp.  Check out some new camp cuisine.  Ride or hike some different trails.  Sometimes just riding or hiking the same trails in the opposite direction you usually go makes them more interesting (of course, don't do that on trails designated as one-way trails!).   Leave time in your travels to take some side trips.  It is very likely you pass a number of interesting historical or geological sites on your way to your favorite camp ground or riding area.  The same is true for OHV rides: try out some side trails and alternate routes now and then.  Consider hiking some of the trails you normally ride on your OHV.   Albert Einstein said that insanity is repeating the same actions and expecting different results.  The same might be said of camping -- doing the same thing over and over and expecting things to be different isn't going to work.  But there are plenty of ways of modifying your routine to keep things interesting and fun -- and even educational.

Try out some new toys.   There seems to be a never-ending list of new camping and RV gadgets coming on the market.  A new camp stove can make meals an adventure.  Try your hand at Dutch oven cooking or give a shot at some pioneer meals like ash cakes.  New games are often a great hit with your fellow campers as well as your family.  Horseshoes is popular with many campers, but I suspect few have tired the "bolo" style game where you throw balls tied together at a goal made of PVC pipe.  The winner is the one who gets the most tosses to wrap around the goal.  The game is available at sporting goods stores or you can make your own using golf balls and string and building the goals from common PVC pipe and fittings.   Most any campground lends itself to learning about local flora and fauna.  Desert outings are particularly good for astronomy lessons. An unobstructed view of clear skies and few lights makes star-gazing particularly amazing, giving you a view you will never see from an urban or even suburban environment.

Vary your activities. If your main activity is riding OHVs, plan an afternoon or evening of skeet shooting now and then -- if shooting is allowed where you are camping.  Check out local ranger-led hikes and lectures.  A general store in the area where we rode dirt bikes in Sequoia would borrow classic films from the local library and show them for free in a make-shift amphitheater outside the store every Friday night.  Campers would come from miles around.  I'm sure they sold lots of popcorn, candy, and soda to reward them for their effort, but they also provided free enjoyable entertainment.  Have your own talent show around the camp fire.   An old fashioned hootenanny or singalong is campfire tradition enjoyed by almost everyone.  Organize service projects to maintain and improve the areas you frequent.  Or even try an entirely different activity, like fishing or boating or hiking.  Look for local museums or historic sites to explore.  I found a monument for an X-15 crash site within an easy ride of one of our favorite Mojave Desert OHV base camps.   Sharing it with other riders who didn't know about it was always fun.   Some of them had ridden past the marker but never knew what it was.  I also did some research on old railroad water tower that was a popular landmark in one of our riding areas and discovered it was all that was left of  small town that once supported the famous 20 Mule Team Borax wagon trains and later the railroad that took over the hauling.  Campfires are a good opportunity for singing songs and telling stories.  It is always good to know a few of the old favorites, but adding some new material on each trip helps keep things interesting.  Encourage everyone to participate.  Our Desert Rat group had a few guitarists to start with but an another enterprising member of the group learned to play the harmonica which added a lot to many folk songs.  Almost anyone can play a tambourine.

Learn more about your destinations.  You can almost always find interesting information about the ecology, geology, or history of the area around your camp ground.  What kind of trees are those? How old are those rocks?  What are they made of and how did they get here?  By the way, most rocks fall into one of three categories:  sedimentary, ignious, or metamorphic.  Sedimentary are created in the bottom of lakes as streams as sediment accumulates and becomes compacted.  Ignious are generally the result of cooled magma pushed up from inside the earth.  Metamorphic rocks are created from any of the three types of rock when they are exposed to heat and pressure which causes chemical changes in the composition.  Everyplace has geology and anyplace there has been human habitation has the potential of yielding interesting history.   Sometimes the trash previous inhabitants or users have left behind yields a bit of insight into their involvement with the area.

If you get bored camping, RVing, or OHVing, it is because you choose to let it happen or even make it happen.

RVs As Spare Rooms

There are at least two RV and camping related applications for "spare rooms".   First of all, your RV or tent might serve as a spare room when you have visitors.  Secondly,  you might  need a "spare room" for your tent or RV.


Your  RV can serve as a convenient"spare room" when you have visitors.  For this to work, you must keep your RV clean and well organized.  Don't use it as a storage area. Keep the beds fresh, or make them up fresh just before your guests arrive.   If your RV has been locked up and stored for weeks or months, you'll need to air it out and freshen the bedding.  Make sure any needed appliances, such as furnaces or air conditioners are in good working order.  And, unless you RV has been winterized, make sure the fresh water tank is full or it is connected to city water.  If your RV has been winterized, make sure you tell your guests not to use any of the plumbing.   In moderate weather, your RV can serve as a complete personal suite for your guests.   In cold (freezing) weather, it should only be used as bedroom and sitting room.  You don't want to put water into the holding tanks that may freeze and damage the valves or tanks.  Of course, if you happen to have an RV with heated holding tanks and plumbing it could be fully utilized.

Tents aren't quite as convenient or as comfortable for visiting guests, but they may sometimes serve as a viable option, so don't rule them out.   They will be more appealing in moderate weather, but we have even had some of our adult kids pitch their tent at our place in Utah at Christmas when six kids plus spouses and grandkids overwhelmed our small retirement home.  Unless your guests are bringing their own, you'll want to make sure your tent is accessible, clean, complete, and in good repair.  Same with sleeping bags, cots, sleeping pads, etc.  You may want to set things up in advance so you can make sure everything is "ship shape" and ready to go before your guests arrive.  One winter they set up a tent in our large barn so it was out of the wind and weather.

Spare rooms on your spare room.  Weather permitting, you can expand your RV using an "add-a-room" -- privacy panels under your awning to create extra living space.  I had a tent that attached to my Smuggler toy hauler, giving us a lot of extra room for dressing and for gathering 8 people out of the weather. These are quite comfortable in moderate climates, but you won't want to rely on them in cold or snowy weather.  The thin fabric walls don't provide much insulation and the awning won't support much of a snow load.  If for any strange reason you need to have your awning open when it snows, keep the snow brushed off to avoid damage to the awning fabric and hardware. 

Screen rooms are another awning variation that can be useful.   Instead of solid "privacy panels", they have screen panels all around that can keep out insects and sometimes reduce sunlight a little bit to keep it cooler under the awning without shutting out the view.

Visitors welcome!

Fire Extinguishers

According to rules established by the National Fire Protection Agency, all recreational vehicles are required to have a at least a 5 lb BC fire extinguisher on board.  Unfortunately, this requirement is often satisfied by a little unit that is totally inadequate for all but the smallest fires. You will often see one about the size of a can of spray paint hanging on a wall in a motorhome or travel trailer.  I don't even like these for cooking fires since the velocity of the spray can splash and spread burning grease and they aren't big enough to really do much.   Much better to cover the burning pan with a lid or wet towel or smother the flames with baking soda.  I upgraded my motorhome with an additional fire extinguisher, a much larger, 20 lb, residential/commercial style ABC model.   See more about these funky alphabet ratings below.  The only real problem with such an upgrade is finding a place to put it.  The larger size and weight may make that difficult.  It needs to be secure and yet easily accessible.  Perhaps  having a small fire extinguisher in its original position inside the RV and a larger one in a convenient outside compartment (where it could also be accessed for engine fires) would be a good solution.

Fire extinguishers are not required by law for tent camping but it is still a good idea to have one handy.  You may need one if your tent or vehicle catches fire.   Most cooking fires can be controlled by covering the pot with a lid or wet towel or smothering the fire with baking soda or salt.   If you don't have a fire extinguisher, do carry an extra box or two of baking soda and keep it handy whenever you're cooking.  NEVER use flour to try to put out a fire.  Flour dust is highly explosive. I've heard that about a cup of flour can deliver about the same kick as a stick of dynamite!   Sugar is also highly flammable.   After all, sugar is the fuel our bodies burn!  It is basically carbon and hydrogen, same fundamental elements as gasoline!

Campfires are usually too large for a fire extinguisher, especially if the reason you're putting them out is they're out of control.  Keep a bucket of water or sand or dirt and a shovel handy to put out campfires. Y ou probably won't want to waste fresh water to put out a routine campfire at the end of the night so drain a little out of your gray water tank and use that.   Take care NOT to release anything from the black water tank!   I guaranty you won't like the results.  The smell of burning sewage will not contribute anything good to your outing or your reputation around camp and your partner may make you sleep outside after you've been exposed to the smoke.

Proper use of an appropriate fire extinguisher can prevent a small fire in your RV, tent, or tow vehicle from getting out of control and avoid more serious and expensive consequences.  Think a fire extinguisher is too expensive?  Consider how expensive it will be not to have one when you need it! Speaking of expense, don't waste your money on cheap fire extinguishers.  Many are made with plastic instead of metal parts inside that are easily broken and probably won't stand up to the rigors of RV travel and would thus be useless when you need them!

Fire extinguishers are rated according to the types of fires they are designed to put out.   The rating is important because an improper extinguisher will not be effective on fires it isn't rated for and, in some cases, can actually make things worse and create a greater hazard.  For example, using water on an electrical fire will damage the electrical equipment and could get you electrocuted!   Using water on flammable liquids may just spread the flames.

Fire and fire extinguishers are rated according to the types of materials involved.  Make sure you know how to recognize the type of fire and use only the right extinguisher for the fire.  Using the wrong one is, at best ineffective, and at worse, can be dangerous!

    Class A: ordinary combustible materials (paper, wood and most plastics)
    Class B: flammable or combustible liquids, such as gasoline, fuel oil, kerosene, diesel, grease,                    oil, and other solvents like paint thinners
    Class C: electrical fires, involving appliances, breaker boxes, wiring
    Class D: combustible metals like magnesium, titanium, and sodium
    Class K: cooking oils (deep fat fryers), mostly found in restaurant kitchens

A typical residential or commercial fire extinguisher will have an A-B-C rating, meaning it is good for Class A, B, and C fires.  This should be adequate for most RV applications.  D rated extinguishers are usually only found in chemical labs or places they routinely use exotic metals.   A "K" rated extinguisher might be useful if you have a cooking fire, but it is probably overkill.  "K" extinguishers are usually only found in commercial kitchens where they have deep fryer equipment and are usually part of an automatic fire suppression system.  You can usually snuff cooking fires by covering the pan with a lid or a wet towel or smothering them with baking soda.  By the way, soda is the main component of many "dry chemical" fire extinguishers so it is not a second rate substitute but rather a legitimate, effective, readily available, and inexpensive alternative.   The main advantage to a dry chemical fire extinguisher is that it is more effective and safer to use than trying to sprinkle soda onto a fire from a box.

Fire extinguisher sizes.   Fire extinguishers are usually "sized" by weight, indicating the weight of the extinguishing agent.  The larger or heavier the rating, the longer the extinguisher will be able to deliver fire suppressant onto a fire.  A 10 lb extinguisher will be fully discharged in 17-20 seconds. A 5 lb model will be used up in 8-10 seconds.  You can see the tiny little units that probably came with your RV won't last very long -- only a few seconds.   Don't give a fire time to get out of control. Tackle it as soon as possible.  Your fire extinguisher should be adequate to put out a smoldering cigarette on your sofa, but if the whole sofa is engaged, just get you and your family the heck out while you can.  Even a 10lb extinguisher isn't enough to handle that job.  You might be able to save the rest of your RV if you can come back with a water hose or a large ABC extinguisher.  A useful guideline for whether to fight a fire or escape is to compare it to a fire in a typical waste basket.   Up to that size, a hand-held fire extinguisher may be effective.  Any thing larger requires real fire fighting equipment and you'd better get you and your loved ones to safety instead of trying (most likely in vain) to put the fire out.

Using a fire extinguisher.  Always aim the fire extinguisher at the base of the fire.  The acronym, PASS describes the proper procedures for using a fire extinguisher:

    P: Pull -- pull the locking pin from the handle
    A: Aim -- aim the nozzle at the base of the fire
    S: Squeeze -- squeeze the handle to begin discharge
    S: Sweep -- sweep the spray from side to side

Once you have started to use an ABC fire extinguisher, you might as well empty it.  Particles left in the valve will keep it from closing completely when you release the handle and the pressure will leak away, making it useless.  After ANY discharge, the unit must be replaced or rebuilt to remain useful.  The only style I know that can be stopped and started is an old fashioned water extinguisher.

Fire extinguisher maintenance.  There is little user maintenance required for most fire extinguishers.  Mostly you need to monitor the inspection date and check the gauge(if it has one).  Dry chemical extinguishers should be shaken once a month to avoid the chemical "caking up" inside.  Fire extinguishers have a limited useful lifetime and need to be replaced or rebuilt (by specially trained and licensed technicians).  About the only type you can maintain yourself is water filled Class A extinguisher.  These units can be refilled with water and re-pressurized by the user using compressed air.   I keep one in my motorcycle trailer as a portable bike pressure washer, but it could also be used on any Class A fire as well.  Water extinguishers are definitely NOT recommended nor approved for Class B or Class C fires.

Fire requires three components, known as the fire triangle:  fuel, heat, and oxygen.   Take away any one of the three and the fire goes out.  Covering a burning pan removes oxygen.  Spraying a fire in ordinary combustibles (wood, paper, plastic) removes heat and, as the water soaks the potential fuel, reduces availability of fuel.  Dry chemical fire extinguishers mostly prevent the fire from getting oxygen.  Water is the most common substance used to put out fires, even by fire departments.  But NEVER use water on a fire involving live electrical devices.  Once the electricity has been turned off the fire switches from a Class C fire to what is usually an ordinary Class A fire.  A fire in a plugged in electrical appliance is a Class C fire; unplug the appliance and it usually becomes a Class A fire. Using water on a Class B fire is not recommended.   The spray often splashes and spreads the burning fuel, doing more harm than good.  I have seen professional firefighters and even trained C.E.R.T. folks put out a Class B fire using water, but it requires special techniques.  I have tried it myself and it isn't easy.   If you have no other choice but water for a flammable liquids fire, do not use a strong stream.  Use a broad spray.  Aim it at the base of the flames and use it kind of like a broom to sweep the flames off the fuel.  It may be very difficult if the fire is wide or if there is any wind.  The fire can easily ignite fumes rising or blown from the previously extinguished areas and jump back again.

Of course, fire prevention is always better than  fire suppression.  You'll always be better off avoiding a fire than fighting one so take proper precautions with your camp and cooking fires.  Watch out for potentially dangerous situations involving combustible materials. 

See also Fire Extinguisher Education for RVers for additional information.

Put it out!

Foggy Windows and Googles

If you do any camping or OHVing in cool, damp weather you're going to experience problems with windows and goggles fogging up.  When it blocks your vista of the mountains or lake it is inconvenient or irritating.  When it interferes with driver's or operator's vision it is a serious safety hazard!   Make sure the defrosters on your RV or tow vehicle are in good working condition and are not blocked by errant objects left on the dash board.  Large windshields like those on Class A motorhomes may need additional assistance.  One of the best options are 12-volt oscillating fans like those used by commercial truck drivers.   Still it is a good idea to keep a small squeegee or cloth handy to clear excess moisture from side windows and maintain a clear view.  Anti-fog preparations will help deter windows and goggles from fogging over.   The one I like best for windshields is made by 20-10, who also makes my favorite windshield wiper fluid.  For goggles, try Cat Crap -- no, not the stuff from the litter box, a commercial anti-fog preparation popular with off-roaders.   The color, texture, and consistency isn't very attractive (actually it is kind of green and slimy and looks more like snot than crap) but it works and has been the number one selling goggle cleaning and anti-fog preparation for more than a decade.  Rain-X also makes an anti-fog spray that is effective and easy to use.

Another handy tool for dealing with foggy windows is a squeegee.  We got ours at Dollar Tree so they don't have to be big or expensive.  A squeegee will make quick work of fogged windows and windshields.  They are easy to use, resusable, and don't take up a lot of room.  For best results wipe the edge often to remove and prevent any buildup that might interfere with its functionality.

Goggles should be cleaned after every ride.  Don't wipe them with a dry cloth.   It will grind fine dust into the soft plastic surface and scratch it, blurring your vision.  Rinse them with water or wash them with soap and water, then wipe them dry with a clean, soft cloth, tissue, or microfiber towel.  If they do get scratched, you'll need to clean and polish the lens to restore clarity.   I've had good success using a 3-stage cleaning system from Novus for maintaining googles.  Each stage uses finer grit.  The first stage removes heavy scratches, the second stage further refines defects, and the final stage polishes the lenses to a clear shine.  Applying anti-fog on clean lenses is more effective and safer than wiping it on dirty or damaged surfaces.

Maintain that vista!  While keeping the windows clear in camp is not as necessary for safety as it is on the road, it is still something you'll want to do.  You'll want to enjoy the beauty of the natural features around you and, if you have children or pets you may need to keep an eye on them.  Here again, a small squeegee is a quick way to clear fogged windows.  Lacking that, dry them with paper towels. In really cold weather I don't worry too much about the view.  I cover all my windows with foam insulation inserts to keep out the cold.  Also works well to keep it cooler inside in hot weather. Controlling the condensation as it occurs will reduce the amount of frost that builds up overnight in cold weather.  Frost on windows can be quite pretty, but it doesn't do much to maintain a warm interior and when it melts it can be damaging to the nearby surfaces and its a LOT harder to scrape off than mere fogging.

Speaking of frost, it can present other problems.  Your RV steps may become dangerously slippery when they're covered with frost.  You also aren't going to want to sit on a frosty OHV seat or camp chair unless you like the feeling of having a cold, wet butt.  A frozen vinyl seat may also be more susceptible to cracking so wipe off the frost early in the morning and let the sun warm the seat a while before you take a ride.  Frost can accumulate on tools left outside.  A frosted axe or shovel handle could present a serious safety hazard.   Frost on metal tools, like wrenches, pliers, sockets, and screwdrivers can lead to rust and corrosion as well as making them slippery and making your hands cold if you try to use them.   Try to keep tools in out of the overnight dew and frost and wipe off any condensation or frost before using them or putting them away.  Frosty metal can sometimes stick to your skin, especially if your skin is wet.  You probably remember some kid (perhaps even you) getting his tongue stuck licking snow off metal fixtures like a swing set or flag pole.  If  you do get frozen to metal, flush the area with warm water to get loose without ripping off a layer of skin.

Even after using an anti-fog product you may have trouble keeping your goggles clear on cold wet rides.  Tuck a soft cloth or some tissues in a convenient pocket or pouch on your coat or fanny pack and stop as necessary to dry the inside of your goggles.   Rain and snow can accumulate on the outside of your goggles.  I've seen riding gloves with a built-in wiper on the thumb to squeegee precipitation off goggles.  You might get away with wiping them with a gloved finger, but it usually leaves streaks that can interfere with your vision.   Exercise caution when wiping away mud since the grit in it may damage your goggles using either your finger or a glove-squeegee.  If rain or snow is making it hard to see, take time to stop and clear it off from time to time.   Ultimately you will get back to camp faster than by limping along blind and it could save you a nasty crash.  If the crust on your goggles contains dirt or grit, take care removing it so you don't scratch the plastic.   If you are having problems with your goggles fogging up and don't have any anti-fog solution with you, try cleaning the inside of the lens with saliva.  This is a trick borrowed from SCUBA divers and snorklers.  Yeah, it sound kinds of yucky, but just spit on the inside of the lens and wipe it all over and then dry the lens.  This will usually reduce fogging, at least a little.

On cold days I like to wear a nylon face mask when riding my dirt bike to keep my face and nose from freezing.  The only down side I've found is that if I cover my nose to keep it warm my breath fogs my goggles.  And if I uncover my nose so I can see better, my nose freezes!  It turns into a kind of balancing act, keeping my nose warm versus keeping my goggles fog free.  If the eye opening is large enough you may be able to keep the googles in contact with your face to avoid breath coming up from inside the mask into your goggles.  That isn't going to work if the mask has two separate eye holes instead of one large one.

Keep it clear!