Winterizing your RV. If you live in a cold climate you will need to either store your RV in a heated garage or winterize it before the cold weather sets in to prevent freeze damage. If you are lucky enough to live in the sunshine belt you can probably skip this post for now. If you choose, for whatever reason, not to winterize your RV, and you live in a cold climate, the consequences could be very expensive. Temperatures below about 24°F for several days WILL create conditions that can seriously damage RV water systems. Occasional nights below freezing but with warm day time temperatures may not require full winterizing, but it always better to be safe than sorry. When I lived in southern California I seldom winterized my vehicles, even when I lived in Rosamond where we got occasional winter night time temps down into the lower 20s. It warmed up enough during the day to prevent the kind of solid freezing that damages plumbing. It was nice being able to keep the RV ready to roll all year round. When we moved to Utah I had dreams of building a heated garage, but keeping a big, steel building warm in Utah winters isn't very practical so I've had to resort to winterization. With night time temperatures in the single digits and daytime highs below freezing, winterization was not optional. In the process I've had my share of partial successes, resulting in some frozen components when I failed to properly winterize them. If the damage is in an exposed bit of plumbing, it is an inconvenience and usually a minor expense to repair. If it occurs inside walls or within the floor, it can be very time consuming and expensive to take care of. Even frozen pipes under the kitchen sink are a real nuisance to reach. Proper winterization will take time and require several gallons of RV antifreeze. It is not a good idea to skimp on either the process or the antifreeze.
The fresh water system is one of the most vulnerable parts of your RV when it comes to freezing. Water freezes at 32°F (0°C). When water turns to ice it expands. That's a good thing for lakes 'cause the ice floats. If it sank, it might never melt and the lake would eventually freeze solid! Not good for fish or fishermen! Expansion in confined spaces, like pipes and fixtures, can seriously damage those components. Many a homeowner and RV owner has suffered the consequences of freezing temperatures on water pipes. If freezing can rupture heavy galvanized pipe in homes (and it does!), just think what it can do to the comparatively flimsy plastic pipes, dump valves, and fixtures in your RV! Freezing of fresh water tanks and holding tanks is also of concern, though the size and flexibility of the tanks allows more leeway than thin pipes where the heat is quickly lost and whose structural integrity can be easily destroyed by the expanding ice. The dump valves and other entry and exterior plumbing are quite susceptible to freeze damage if water is left in them. All water needs to be eliminated or replaced with RV antifreeze.
To winterize your fresh water system, first drain your fresh water tank then run the water pump and open each faucet until no water comes out. For added safety, use a 'blow out plug' in the city water inlet to use compressed air to blow any remaining water out of the system. Be sure to open all the faucets before applying the compressed air. Leave the drain open until it stops dripping to be sure all the water is out. You may need to elevate the RV on the side away from the drain to be sure it all comes out. Drain the hot water heater. To conserve antifreeze you may want to install a water heater bypass kit (if your RV isn't already equipped with one). They aren't expensive (usually around $20) and fairly easy to install if you have access to the back of the water heater. With antifreeze running about $4/gallon, they'll pay for themselves in saved antifreeze the first year. This allows cold water to pass directly from the feed to the hot water distribution without having to fill the water heater. It is also a good idea to blow out the lines and fixtures with compressed air if you can. You will need an adapter to screw into the city water connection to which you can attach your compressed air. Next fill the system with RV/Marine antifreeze. DO NOT use automotive antifreeze! It is toxic. RV antifreeze is usually pink. automotive antifreeze is green or yellow. If you have access to the 12 volt water pump you may be able to connect a hose from the inlet to draw antifreeze from the jug and pump it through the system. If not, add a gallon or so of RV antifreeze to the fresh water tank. If that isn't enough to allow your pump to deliver water to all the faucets you may have to continue adding antifreeze until it does pump through the system. You can also buy manual pumps to pump antifreeze in through the city water connection. Some winter windshield wiper fluids are also pink, so make sure you use ONLY designated RV/Marine antifreeze. Then disconnect the inlet side of the water pump and run a line into a jug of antifreeze. Turn the pump on and open one faucet or fixture at a time (don't forget the toilet) and let it run until the pink antifreeze comes out. Make sure you have at least 1/2 cup of antifreeze in each drain to prevent the P-traps from freezing. Your fresh water system should now be safe down to the protection level indicated for the antifreeze you used. If you can't get to the inlet side of the pump, dump about 5 gallons or so of RV antifreeze into the fresh water tank until you can pump it through the lines and faucets. Make sure the pink stuff comes out ALL the faucets, both hot and cold, and the toilet. And, don't forget the outside shower if your RV is equipped with one.
Hot water heaters are also subject to freezing when left off (you don't want to waste propane heating water all winter!). Many RVs have a bypass system so you don't have to fill the whole water heater with antifreeze to protect the hot water lines. After turning the valves to bypass the water heater, drain the water heater completely. If your RV doesn't have a hot water heater bypass, one can usually be added fair inexpensively, especially if you can do it yourself. Then, when you pump antifreeze through lines, it will go through the hot water lines and faucets as well as the cold water lines so all the lines are protected without having to pump 6-10 gallons of antifreeze into the water heater. Installing a bypass system is pretty easy if you have ready access to the back of the water heater. You may need custom components if clearances are tight. Off-the-shelf bypass kits may have fittings and valves that may not fit if clearances are close.
Holding tanks are also susceptible to freeze problems. Most vulnerable are the dump valves, but the tanks themselves and other plumbing lines can also be ruptured if the contents freeze and expand. Completely drain the holding tanks and add a gallon of antifreeze to each one to protect the dump valves. Most of the drain lines will be dry, except for the P-traps. That is why you need a half cup or so of antifreeze in each drain, to fill the P-traps. Chemicals and contaminates in sewage may lower the freeze point slightly in holding tanks, but unless the additives are antifreeze it probably won't protect them much below the normal freeze point of plain water (32°F) and plain water caught in P-traps would definitely be likely to freeze and damage the plumbing.
The water hoses you use to fill your fresh water tank and to rinse your sewer hoses both need to drained so they don't freeze and burst or take them out and store them in a heated area where they will be protected from freezing. Some RVers carry multiple fresh water hoses to ensure they can reach the faucets in even the most inconveniently configured camp sites. Some may also carry a standard garden hose for flushing the holding tanks. Be sure you take care of all your hoses.
Anything with water in it will need to be drained or protected. I have a water type fire extinguish in my motorcycle trailer that I have to drain, plus I have to empty our "Camelbak" hydration packs. Check around your cabinets for where you might have squirreled away bottled water and soda and put it somewhere that it won't freeze. Frozen soda cans burst when they freeze and when the stuff melts it leaves a really sticky mess. Ice maker lines should be disconnected and drained.
Propane systems usually don't require any special winterizing for storage, but if you plan to use your RV during winter months you'll want to fill it with a winter blend. Ordinary propane tends to gel in cold temperatures and then your stove, furnace, and refrigerator won't work. The winter mix includes butane which has a different vaporization point and helps keep the fuel ready to use at lower temperatures. I learned this the hard way. I had a Class B van conversion that I took with me when I moved to Chicago from southern California. I figured I could increase our driving comfort by lighting the furnace an hour or so before we were ready to drive the van. I was really disappointed when I could not get anything to light! It was about -20F outside and the propane was useless. When it warmed up in the spring, everything worked just fine. If there is excess moisture in your propane system, it could freeze and damage regulators and gas lines. There is no easy way to determine if there is excess moisture in the propane system. For peace of mind, have a propane technician check the system. They may add alcohol to help control moisture and reduce the chances of freezing.
Windshield washer fluid also needs to be changed. Summer formulas will freeze, most winter formulas are good down to at least -20°F. That should be good enough for must of us, unless you live in Alaska or plan to visit Antarctica!
Coach batteries must be kept fully charged or removed and stored inside to prevent them from freezing. An automatic battery charger or good converter with a multi-stage charger should maintain the charge for normal winter temperatures, but batteries should be stored in a non-freezing environment if you expect -- or encounter extreme cold. Check the electrolyte level. Low electrolyte will prevent the batteries from charging properly.
Automotive systems in your motorhome or tow vehicle also need to be winterized. If you've been keeping up with your routine maintenance your coolant should already be at the proper mixture to protect the engine from freezing. Check the protection level in your radiator using a hydrometer. Make sure you are protected well below the temperatures you expect to experience -- just in case you get an unexpected cold snap. It is a very good idea to change the oil before storing your vehicle for the winter. Used oil often contains acids and contaminates that can damage metal parts while in storage. Don't forget the oil in your generator. And make sure the battery is fully charged. A low battery can freeze fairly easily, but a fully charged on will withstand much colder temperatures. A frozen battery may crack, spilling acid all over the place and causing serious and expensive damage as well as destroying the battery. Removing the batteries on very cold nights is a nuisance, but not nearly as much of a nuisance as cleaning up spilled battery acid if they freeze and break!
Provisions you keep in your RV, including edibles, medicine, and sundries, may need to be removed and stored inside during freezing weather so they don't freeze and break their containers or destroy the contents -- or both! You won't like the results of either consequence! Broken containers can be very messy and frozen contents may present you with a nasty surprise when you go to use them next season. And don't forget the contents of your outside storage compartments. Some cleaning supplies you store there may need protection to avoid freezing too.
Protecting the exterior from winter weather is also important. If you don't have a covered or enclosed storage area for your RV, consider investing in a good RV cover. You'll see people using ordinary tarps and they provide some protection but they don't breath and the coarse surface can damage the finish on your RV. Tarps are OK if they are set up as shield around and over the vehicle but can damage the paint if they are placed in contact with the surface. Make sure your vehicle is clean before covering it. Any dirt or debris is likely to damage the surface as the cover moves. If your RV is stored outside, be sure to at least protect the tires. The rubber tends to dry out and crack when the tires sit for long periods of time, especially if they are exposed to sunlight and ozone. Vinyl tire coves are fairly inexpensive and easy to use. Ordinary contractor trash bags wrapped around the tires will protect them from the sun. Keeping the rain and snow of off your RV also prevents intrusion and accumulation of moisture that could then freeze and cause additional damage. If you have to leave your RV outside when it snows, brush off the accumulation before it gets deep enough to overload the roof or the vents on the roof. The best way to do this is to use a long-handled broom from a ladder alongside the RV. W alking around on a slippery RV roof, which is usually strewn with obstacles that could be hidden in the snow you could trip over, is a recipe for a nasty fall! That ground is a long way down and likely to be frozen. Definitely not someplace you want to land.
Using your RV in winter. Most people don't use their RVs during freezing weather, but they can make a good base camp for skiing, ice fishing, and snowmobiling if they are properly prepared. Just keeping your RV furnace set to keep YOU warm doesn't necessarily protect your water systems against freezing. You may need a heater or heat tape to protect holding tanks, dump valves, and exposed pipes. A 100-watt bulb inside an exterior compartment that contains exposed water system components may prevent them from freezing -- IF you have 120-volt power to run it all or most of the time. You will want to seal any potential drafts around doors, windows, and cabinets and use foam insulation panels in the windows to prevent heat loss. Make sure your furnace is in good condition and you have plenty of winterized fuel. The propane used in warm climates will gel or freeze in cold weather, so try to use up your summer supply before the cold weather hits and refill your tank with a winter mixture. If your furnace isn't large enough to meet the demands of your winter outings, explore adding a second furnace or a permanently installed or portable catalytic heater to add more warmth. If you plan to do a lot of winter camping, it will be worth the investment in a second furnace or a permanently mounted catalytic heater. If you only need it occasionally, you can probably get by using a "tent heater" for auxiliary heat. With any catalytic heater, make sure you have adequate ventilation. While they don't out out smoke or toxic fumes, they do consume oxygen and even seasoned campers have suffocated when they forgot to leave some windows open. Electrical heaters are an easy remedy if you have shore power or a generator and plenty of fuel, at least for daytime use. You don't want to run the generator at night so plan on other ways of keeping warm during "quiet hours". Personal comfort can often be increased at little cost by adjusting your wardrobe. Thermal underwear, warm socks, and sweaters are usually enough in an RV or even in a tent. For sleeping comfort you may need a sleeping bag with a lower temperature rating or need to add some extra blankets, quilts, or comforters. One trick I've found works really well is to open up an extra sleeping bag and use it to cover two people in their individual or shared bags. The shared bag provides additional insulation and retains heat from both bodies immediately around the sleeping bags instead of letting it escape into the surrounding air and trying to heat and entire tent or RV.
Setting up your RV for winter use. Some RVs come from the factory already set up for winter use. If yours didn't, there are some things you can do to make it more winter friendly. Factory setups usually include enclosed and heated holding tank compartments that may be difficult or impossible to do as a retrofit. You may have to resort to heat pads and tape to warm exposed tanks and plumbing. Exterior compartments are often lacking insulation and you may be able to remedy that with rigid styrofoam or foam/foil insulation installed to line the compartments and compartment doors. Insulation alone won't keep exterior compartments warm. You may need to add heat tape or just install a 60-100 watt incandescent light bulb in each compartment. You'll need shore or generator power to run the lights, but since incandescent bulbs are about 90% efficient as heaters and 10% efficient as lights, they'll usually do a pretty good job of keeping the damaging chill away. Generous and consistent use of foam/foil panels in your RV windows will greatly improve heat retention and interior comfort and reduce propane consumption. You may need snow tires or tire chains to fit your RV tires for safe winter travel. I like to use an old foam sleeping pad to lie on when installing tire chains. Not only is it more comfortable than lying on cold, wet pavement or gravel, it helps keep you up off the snow or wet ground.
When using park hookups in winter you will need to wrap your water hose AND the faucet with heat tape. Leaving the hose attached will defeat the self-draining features of the frost-free faucets and both the hose and the plumbing may freeze -- and YOU will be liable to the campground for the cost of repairs. Heated fresh water hoses are convenient to use but somewhat expensive and you'll still need heat tape to protect the exposed pipe and faucet it is connected to.
Attention tent campers! Just because you don't have an RV doesn't mean you're off the hook for winterization. Your camp stoves and lanterns should be properly cleaned and stored. Make sure your tent is clean and dry. Loosen those tightly strapped sleeping bags so you don't destroy the loft. Open them up and hang them freely if you can. Go through your provisions and make sure anything that might freeze or leak is put somewhere safe. If you have portable hot water system or a porta-potto, be sure to drain and winterize it. Check your ice chests to be sure they have been emptied out. Empty your canteens or hydration packs. Then take advantage of the "indoor months" to inventory, inspect, repair, replace, or upgrade your gear as needed.
Keep cozy all winter!
Information on recreational vehicles (RVs) and Off Highway Vehicles (OHVs), Camping, Sailing, and Survival
Tuesday, November 29, 2011
Monday, November 28, 2011
Read and Re-read.
Why would you want to re-read any of the posts on this blog? Or anything else for that matter? Well, for one thing, each time you read it what you get out of it will be affected by the sum of all your experience, and your experience changes constantly. On top of that, I frequently re-read all my posts and often edit them to clarify some points or provide additional information as my experience changes and I acquire new material or I come across relevant items from other sources. There are always new products or procedures coming along to improve our camping and RV options. And, NO, I don't get paid when people read my blog!
Read and re-read any RV and camping magazines you may receive. Read and re-read first aid manuals and survival guides. Read and re-read the owners manuals and maintenance schedules for your RVs, OHVs, and camping equipment. Sound boring? Maybe, but it is important to keep up to date and you're sure to find valuable new insight with each reading. And it will be a lot less boring and whole lot less stressful than sitting around waiting for repairs or assistance when something breaks down cause you didn't know how to take care of your equipment or what to do when something unpleasant happens. Unfortunately, we don't get to use our camping equipment and recreational vehicles as often as we would like so it is all too easy to forget things we once knew about them. Reviewing the relevant documentation periodically is one way of keeping it fresh. There was an old saying when I was in school: "The more you learn, the more you know, the more you know, the more you forget, the more you forget, the less you know, so why study?" Nice try -- when want to avoid doing homework, but it never flew well with parents or teachers who insisted repetition improved learning. Care to guess who was right? Well, the more you read and re-read relevant materials, the more familiar they will be and the more you will retain. You can figure it will take at least 3-5 readings before you really understand any given article, let alone will remember it. Repetition does improve memory. You don't have to remember all the answers but just knowing where to find relevant information about your equipment can save tons of maintenance and repair time.
What catches your attention will change from time to time, depending on your needs and point of view at any given time. You may gloss over survival and emergency preparedness topics until you or someone close to you is affected by a disaster situation. You may not find hints for hot or cold weather camping particularly useful until you find yourself out in hotter or colder weather than usual. I am hoping that by posting my experience and research on this blog I can help you prepare for situations ahead of time and, with any luck, avoid some of the pitfalls I and other campers I know have encountered. Unfortunately, a lot of us are a like a kid, who told not to touch a hot stove, doesn't really believe it until he experiences it for himself and gets burned. Don't get burned!
Read and re-read is something I frequently practice, not only on my blog but with many of my research materials. Much to my wife's frustration, I hang onto a couple of years or more of back-issues of Motorhome, RV View, Highways, Sail, and Dirt Rider magazines, and frequently go back and re-read them. They are a gold mine of tech and travel tips. The reviews of new vehicles and products helps me keep up with new innovations and evolving trends, to say nothing of piquing my interest in possible upgrades. New product reviews are interesting and helpful. There are always new gadgets to look over and covet. The maintenance tips provide a continuing source of valuable insight into solutions for mechanical issues, fixing problems, and tips for acquiring and installing new equipment. Travel stories are always fun to read and may give you ideas for new adventures of your own. One of my favorite Motorhome Magazine features is called "Quick Tips", a series of simple user-supplied ideas that solve common problems and are easy and inexpensive to implement. And even though I have read them all from cover to cover more than once, I often find new tidbits that surface as my experience or focus has changed since the last time I read them.
I urge you to especially consider articles that provide instruction for emergency preparedness. It isn't as much fun as riding our OHVs or personal watercraft so we tend not to pay as much attention. Hopefully disasters are rare, and because they usually are, we are often unprepared when they happen. You might get pretty good at changing and patching OHV tires if you ride rocky trails where you get frequent flats. Hopefully you won't have as many chances to practice your first aid or CPR skills! Some people shy away from preparations because they don't understand the potential risk or are scared or they don't know where to start. Some folks are superstitious, fearing that preparing for a disaster will in some way make it happen. As for me, I'd a whole lot rather prepare and prepare and never need it than not prepare and find myself in trouble. Fear and panic are the greatest threats in almost any disaster or survival situation. The best way to avoid fear and panic is preparation. It doesn't matter if you are preparing for a major natural disaster such as earthquakes, tornadoes, or floods or for the minor problems of a mechanical breakdown or being caught in bad weather on a camping trip, the key to enduring the difficulties and making the most of the situation is preparation. Preparing for emergencies may not be as much fun as preparing for a water-skiing or OHV trip, but it may be more important. I felt pretty much in control following the 1994 Northridge earthquake in California which knocked over block walls in my neighborhood and took out power for a few days and killed several people in the next valley. My youngest son was about 10 at the time. Partly because his mother and I didn't panic, he felt secure. When an aftershock hit while he was playing street hockey with his friends he paused to ride it out, grinned and said "Cool!", and went back to his game. A fellow worker of mine had recently moved from New York and was totally unprepared and panicked by the 'quake. His 12 year old daughter spent the next two weeks hiding under the dining room table and reverted to wetting her pants. I'm certain her parents fear played a big part in her reaction. You may have to force yourself to make emergency preparations a priority, but one day it will pay off and you never know when that day might come. After the Northridge quake I donned my C.E.R.T. gear and went to check on friends and neighbors after having confirmed the status of my own family. Everywhere I went people came out desperately seeking information and help. Frankly I was surprised how ill prepared so many people were to deal with a quake and how hungry they were for information and assistance in earthquake prone southern California.
Never stop learning!
Read and re-read any RV and camping magazines you may receive. Read and re-read first aid manuals and survival guides. Read and re-read the owners manuals and maintenance schedules for your RVs, OHVs, and camping equipment. Sound boring? Maybe, but it is important to keep up to date and you're sure to find valuable new insight with each reading. And it will be a lot less boring and whole lot less stressful than sitting around waiting for repairs or assistance when something breaks down cause you didn't know how to take care of your equipment or what to do when something unpleasant happens. Unfortunately, we don't get to use our camping equipment and recreational vehicles as often as we would like so it is all too easy to forget things we once knew about them. Reviewing the relevant documentation periodically is one way of keeping it fresh. There was an old saying when I was in school: "The more you learn, the more you know, the more you know, the more you forget, the more you forget, the less you know, so why study?" Nice try -- when want to avoid doing homework, but it never flew well with parents or teachers who insisted repetition improved learning. Care to guess who was right? Well, the more you read and re-read relevant materials, the more familiar they will be and the more you will retain. You can figure it will take at least 3-5 readings before you really understand any given article, let alone will remember it. Repetition does improve memory. You don't have to remember all the answers but just knowing where to find relevant information about your equipment can save tons of maintenance and repair time.
What catches your attention will change from time to time, depending on your needs and point of view at any given time. You may gloss over survival and emergency preparedness topics until you or someone close to you is affected by a disaster situation. You may not find hints for hot or cold weather camping particularly useful until you find yourself out in hotter or colder weather than usual. I am hoping that by posting my experience and research on this blog I can help you prepare for situations ahead of time and, with any luck, avoid some of the pitfalls I and other campers I know have encountered. Unfortunately, a lot of us are a like a kid, who told not to touch a hot stove, doesn't really believe it until he experiences it for himself and gets burned. Don't get burned!
Read and re-read is something I frequently practice, not only on my blog but with many of my research materials. Much to my wife's frustration, I hang onto a couple of years or more of back-issues of Motorhome, RV View, Highways, Sail, and Dirt Rider magazines, and frequently go back and re-read them. They are a gold mine of tech and travel tips. The reviews of new vehicles and products helps me keep up with new innovations and evolving trends, to say nothing of piquing my interest in possible upgrades. New product reviews are interesting and helpful. There are always new gadgets to look over and covet. The maintenance tips provide a continuing source of valuable insight into solutions for mechanical issues, fixing problems, and tips for acquiring and installing new equipment. Travel stories are always fun to read and may give you ideas for new adventures of your own. One of my favorite Motorhome Magazine features is called "Quick Tips", a series of simple user-supplied ideas that solve common problems and are easy and inexpensive to implement. And even though I have read them all from cover to cover more than once, I often find new tidbits that surface as my experience or focus has changed since the last time I read them.
I urge you to especially consider articles that provide instruction for emergency preparedness. It isn't as much fun as riding our OHVs or personal watercraft so we tend not to pay as much attention. Hopefully disasters are rare, and because they usually are, we are often unprepared when they happen. You might get pretty good at changing and patching OHV tires if you ride rocky trails where you get frequent flats. Hopefully you won't have as many chances to practice your first aid or CPR skills! Some people shy away from preparations because they don't understand the potential risk or are scared or they don't know where to start. Some folks are superstitious, fearing that preparing for a disaster will in some way make it happen. As for me, I'd a whole lot rather prepare and prepare and never need it than not prepare and find myself in trouble. Fear and panic are the greatest threats in almost any disaster or survival situation. The best way to avoid fear and panic is preparation. It doesn't matter if you are preparing for a major natural disaster such as earthquakes, tornadoes, or floods or for the minor problems of a mechanical breakdown or being caught in bad weather on a camping trip, the key to enduring the difficulties and making the most of the situation is preparation. Preparing for emergencies may not be as much fun as preparing for a water-skiing or OHV trip, but it may be more important. I felt pretty much in control following the 1994 Northridge earthquake in California which knocked over block walls in my neighborhood and took out power for a few days and killed several people in the next valley. My youngest son was about 10 at the time. Partly because his mother and I didn't panic, he felt secure. When an aftershock hit while he was playing street hockey with his friends he paused to ride it out, grinned and said "Cool!", and went back to his game. A fellow worker of mine had recently moved from New York and was totally unprepared and panicked by the 'quake. His 12 year old daughter spent the next two weeks hiding under the dining room table and reverted to wetting her pants. I'm certain her parents fear played a big part in her reaction. You may have to force yourself to make emergency preparations a priority, but one day it will pay off and you never know when that day might come. After the Northridge quake I donned my C.E.R.T. gear and went to check on friends and neighbors after having confirmed the status of my own family. Everywhere I went people came out desperately seeking information and help. Frankly I was surprised how ill prepared so many people were to deal with a quake and how hungry they were for information and assistance in earthquake prone southern California.
Never stop learning!
Wednesday, November 23, 2011
Slide outs
One of the most noticeable advances in RV design in recent years is the slide-out. We're not talking about doing Tokyo drift style maneuvers with your RV or what sometimes happens on slick roads, we're talking about structural modifications that expand the interior space when your RV is in the campground. Old-style RVs typically have an aisle about 2' wide down the middle with cabinets, counters, and furnishings on either side. Slide-outs move the cabinets or furnishings out, leaving more open floor space inside. Large motorhomes and trailers may have up to 4 slide-outs. Units with opposing slide outs in the main living area create a living space that seems down right palacious. Gone are the feelings of claustrophobia that once beset users of many older RVs. I saw one at an RV show with 5 slides outs that appeared to have more open space than my living room at home! Of course the price tag was more than my house too!
Think slide-outs are a modern innovation? The RV Hall of Fame includes a custom built "Telescope Apartment" on a 1915 Model T Ford that had multiple slide-out compartments, including the main telescoping section. Modern use of slide outs in RVs didn't show up until the 1990s.
Slide-outs are wonderful additions but they do present some extra considerations when using your RV. First of all, you need to be aware that the slide-outs need space when you pull into a camping spot. Attempting to open a slide-out where it will encounter obstacles can cause distressing and expensive damage to your RV. If there is ANY chance the slide-out might strike an obstacle, don't open it. Move the obstacle or move your RV until you have adequate clearance to open the slide-out. Even small branches can interfere with proper operation, damage the mechanism, or puncture the skin. Even if you can successfully open the slide-out, if branches get caught as the unit is retracted again it can cause serious damage. Be sure to check clearances overhead and at the bottom of the slide out. Look for possible interference every time before you extend or retract the slide.
Slide-out safety. Besides making sure you have adequate clearance to open your slide-out, you may want to make sure you have plenty of room to walk around the open slide-out Otherwise you may need to duck under it get past it and that is a good way to bump your head. Some folks use velcro to attach bright colored ribbons to the corners of the open slide-out to make it easier to avoid bumping into the corners. Another consideration is weight distribution and loading. The structure is designed to support the original purpose and adding more weight could seriously damage the mechanism. A slide out that with a sofa should easily handle the weight of normal use of the sofa, but adding an extra water tank or heavy equipment under the furniture is likely to seriously overload the structure and cause significant and expensive damage. Some slides extend out over outside cabinets, making access to them difficult when the slide is extended. In some cases the cabinets extend out with the slide. When this is the case you will want to avoid overloading the cabinets so the extra weight doesn't stress or damage the slide mechanism. You may also want to guard against over-loading a slideout with people. Too many people standing or sitting in a slideout may bend some of the structure.
Slide-out maintenance. Slide-outs usually require little maintenance, but what is required is important. That is to keep the mechanism free of dirt, debris, and obstacles and properly lubricated. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for lubrication and use the right lubricants in the right places at the right intervals. Using the wrong lubricant or using too little or too much or at the wrong intervals will cause damage. Too little lubricant or waiting too long will risk excessive wear on the moving parts and could cause binding that may bend the mechanism or burn out the motor. Too much or too frequent oiling may accumulate dirt and dust which also accelerates wear -- and makes a mess. Make sure there are no loose items under furniture or cabinets in a slide out that could fall into the mechanism. You also want to keep the top of the slide-out clean when it is extended. Slide-out awnings are a good way to automatically protect the top of your slide-out. If you don't have them, inspect the roof before you retract your slide-out and brush away any debris that could get pulled in and damage the seals. Speaking of seals, they need to be regularly inspected and kept clean. They should be treated a couple of times a year with a spray designed to protect and lubricate the rubber to keep it in good condition and protect it from the elements.
ALWAYS retract your slide-out before moving your RV. Motorhomes usually have an interlock that prevents you from moving the unit with the slide extended, but since the tow vehicle is separate for trailers, its up to you to make sure all the slides are stowed before moving your extended towable home on wheels. Moving the unit with the slides extended can cause serious damage. You may risk the slide hitting an obstacle but even if the way is clear, the twisting of the coach going over any kind of uneven surface, like even going in or out of a driveway, or sometimes just the tilt from making a slow turn, can tweak the slide so it no longer fits or works properly. The leverage of an extended slide can exceed the design limits of the mechanism when the body is tweaked. Then you may have difficulty retracting and extending the slide or may have leaks and repairs are not cheap!
You may also want to retract your slide outs during high winds. The extra surface area and extended leverage of the slide outs may cause excessive rocking and rolling of your unit and could tweak the slide outs so they can't be retracted and/or no longer fit properly. If the slide is moving or flexing from the wind it may get tweaked enough to compromise the seals and allow dirt, wind, and precipitation inside.
Slide out awnings are included with most slide outs to reduce the chance of rain intrusion and accumulation of debris on the top of the open slideout. Like most added conveniences, they may increase cost and come with their own maintenance requirements and limitations. On long slide outs the fabric may sag enough, even when properly tensioned, to allow water to pool during heavy rain. If the awning isn't properly tensioned, it may flap excessively in higher winds. As the awnings age, the fabric stretches and the springs weaken and may need to be adjusted or replaced for optimum performance. Some folks throw a rope over the awning and tie it down to reduce flapping. You might also install grommets along the outside edges and tie it town with rope or bungee cords. To deal with the water pooling problem, some innovative owners have created support frameworks out of PVC pipe. One pushed a beach ball under the awning to hold up the middle -- but he got tired of chasing the beach ball around the campground when strong breezes would dislodge it.
An innovative variation of a slide out, called a Veranda, was introduced in 2008 but hasn't really caught on. Most of the entire curb-side wall hinged down to create a suspended deck on the side of the RV. Residential style sliding glass doors provided access between the deck and the interior of the RV. As clever as this invention was, it would appear that people are more interested in having more interior space than a veranda. An awning and a good patio mat make a pretty good patio area without the extra weight, extra cost, or extra complicated machinery of the Veranda. This option might be a good choice for anyone who has difficulty negotiating the stairs on their RV since the Veranda floor is a the same height as the floor inside the RV.
Are slide outs right for you? It is hard to imagine any time slide outs would not a be a welcome addition, but there are things to be considered. If you frequent campgrounds with small, tight spaces, you may not have room to open your slide out. While most slide out equipped RVs can be used with the slides retracted, interior space is often limited and some features may be inaccessible with the slide retracted. If vehicle weight is a major consideration, remember that slide outs add weight. So if you need to stay below a maximum weight, you may not find slide outs to be a good choice. Why might you need to restrict the weight of your RV? Well, you might visit campgrounds where there are weight restrictions on bridges or ferries you may encounter en route. If you already have a trailer you tow behind your motorhome, you may have to limit the weight of the motorhome so as not to exceed the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR). Exceeding the GCVWR will have serious negative affects on handling, safety, mileage, performance, and longevity of your RV.
Slide outs CAN be added to some existing RVs, but generally it is cost prohibitive -- around $2000/foot. That makes a modest 14' addition cost $28,000, more than many used motorhomes taht already have slide outs! There may also be weight restrictions and serious structural considerations. Upgrading to a newer model with slide outs has other advantages as well, such as dual pane windows, improved insulation, and more energy efficient appliances with fewer hours of use. Since slide outs are a relatively recent innovation, you won't find them in older, more affordable RVs. In fact, the addition of slide outs is one factor that has made older units without them more affordable since many buyers often want slide outs. However, if you have a vintage RV you really love and want to add a slideout, it may be possible. Make sure your installer understands the engineering to ensure your rig can support the addition of a slide out.
Slide outs often have a "slide out topper" -- an awning that extends out over the slide out when it is extended, protecting the top from weather and the seals from UV damage. Toppers can usually be added to slides that don't have them.
Early model units with slide outs might look like a bargain, but make sure the seals are in tact and the slides all work smoothly, without any binding or straining. As slides age, the seals tend to break down and the mechanical parts get worn or bent. If they have had little use and have been properly cared for they may be just fine, but any lack of maintenance or any abuse could render them a disaster just waiting to happen. Seals and other replacement parts for older units may be obsolete and difficult or expensive to find. As often occurs with any technology, improvements have been made since slide outs were first introduced so, in the long run, it may pay to get a later model.
The availability of slide outs has had an impact on the resale value of older RVs that don't have them. That means you may be able to get a bargain price on a quality older unit that doesn't have slide outs if are OK with the smaller living space in camp. Before you completely throw out the idea, keep in mind RVs without slide outs have been around a long time and have provided great service, comfort, and convenience. You may be able to find an "open floor plan" that gives you some of the elbow room of slide outs without the extra cost. You may feel less claustrophobic in a newer model with slide outs, not only because of the extra room but because your wallet will be thinner and take up less space.
Slide in to slide outs!
Think slide-outs are a modern innovation? The RV Hall of Fame includes a custom built "Telescope Apartment" on a 1915 Model T Ford that had multiple slide-out compartments, including the main telescoping section. Modern use of slide outs in RVs didn't show up until the 1990s.
Slide-outs are wonderful additions but they do present some extra considerations when using your RV. First of all, you need to be aware that the slide-outs need space when you pull into a camping spot. Attempting to open a slide-out where it will encounter obstacles can cause distressing and expensive damage to your RV. If there is ANY chance the slide-out might strike an obstacle, don't open it. Move the obstacle or move your RV until you have adequate clearance to open the slide-out. Even small branches can interfere with proper operation, damage the mechanism, or puncture the skin. Even if you can successfully open the slide-out, if branches get caught as the unit is retracted again it can cause serious damage. Be sure to check clearances overhead and at the bottom of the slide out. Look for possible interference every time before you extend or retract the slide.
Slide-out safety. Besides making sure you have adequate clearance to open your slide-out, you may want to make sure you have plenty of room to walk around the open slide-out Otherwise you may need to duck under it get past it and that is a good way to bump your head. Some folks use velcro to attach bright colored ribbons to the corners of the open slide-out to make it easier to avoid bumping into the corners. Another consideration is weight distribution and loading. The structure is designed to support the original purpose and adding more weight could seriously damage the mechanism. A slide out that with a sofa should easily handle the weight of normal use of the sofa, but adding an extra water tank or heavy equipment under the furniture is likely to seriously overload the structure and cause significant and expensive damage. Some slides extend out over outside cabinets, making access to them difficult when the slide is extended. In some cases the cabinets extend out with the slide. When this is the case you will want to avoid overloading the cabinets so the extra weight doesn't stress or damage the slide mechanism. You may also want to guard against over-loading a slideout with people. Too many people standing or sitting in a slideout may bend some of the structure.
Slide-out maintenance. Slide-outs usually require little maintenance, but what is required is important. That is to keep the mechanism free of dirt, debris, and obstacles and properly lubricated. Be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations for lubrication and use the right lubricants in the right places at the right intervals. Using the wrong lubricant or using too little or too much or at the wrong intervals will cause damage. Too little lubricant or waiting too long will risk excessive wear on the moving parts and could cause binding that may bend the mechanism or burn out the motor. Too much or too frequent oiling may accumulate dirt and dust which also accelerates wear -- and makes a mess. Make sure there are no loose items under furniture or cabinets in a slide out that could fall into the mechanism. You also want to keep the top of the slide-out clean when it is extended. Slide-out awnings are a good way to automatically protect the top of your slide-out. If you don't have them, inspect the roof before you retract your slide-out and brush away any debris that could get pulled in and damage the seals. Speaking of seals, they need to be regularly inspected and kept clean. They should be treated a couple of times a year with a spray designed to protect and lubricate the rubber to keep it in good condition and protect it from the elements.
ALWAYS retract your slide-out before moving your RV. Motorhomes usually have an interlock that prevents you from moving the unit with the slide extended, but since the tow vehicle is separate for trailers, its up to you to make sure all the slides are stowed before moving your extended towable home on wheels. Moving the unit with the slides extended can cause serious damage. You may risk the slide hitting an obstacle but even if the way is clear, the twisting of the coach going over any kind of uneven surface, like even going in or out of a driveway, or sometimes just the tilt from making a slow turn, can tweak the slide so it no longer fits or works properly. The leverage of an extended slide can exceed the design limits of the mechanism when the body is tweaked. Then you may have difficulty retracting and extending the slide or may have leaks and repairs are not cheap!
You may also want to retract your slide outs during high winds. The extra surface area and extended leverage of the slide outs may cause excessive rocking and rolling of your unit and could tweak the slide outs so they can't be retracted and/or no longer fit properly. If the slide is moving or flexing from the wind it may get tweaked enough to compromise the seals and allow dirt, wind, and precipitation inside.
Slide out awnings are included with most slide outs to reduce the chance of rain intrusion and accumulation of debris on the top of the open slideout. Like most added conveniences, they may increase cost and come with their own maintenance requirements and limitations. On long slide outs the fabric may sag enough, even when properly tensioned, to allow water to pool during heavy rain. If the awning isn't properly tensioned, it may flap excessively in higher winds. As the awnings age, the fabric stretches and the springs weaken and may need to be adjusted or replaced for optimum performance. Some folks throw a rope over the awning and tie it down to reduce flapping. You might also install grommets along the outside edges and tie it town with rope or bungee cords. To deal with the water pooling problem, some innovative owners have created support frameworks out of PVC pipe. One pushed a beach ball under the awning to hold up the middle -- but he got tired of chasing the beach ball around the campground when strong breezes would dislodge it.
An innovative variation of a slide out, called a Veranda, was introduced in 2008 but hasn't really caught on. Most of the entire curb-side wall hinged down to create a suspended deck on the side of the RV. Residential style sliding glass doors provided access between the deck and the interior of the RV. As clever as this invention was, it would appear that people are more interested in having more interior space than a veranda. An awning and a good patio mat make a pretty good patio area without the extra weight, extra cost, or extra complicated machinery of the Veranda. This option might be a good choice for anyone who has difficulty negotiating the stairs on their RV since the Veranda floor is a the same height as the floor inside the RV.
Are slide outs right for you? It is hard to imagine any time slide outs would not a be a welcome addition, but there are things to be considered. If you frequent campgrounds with small, tight spaces, you may not have room to open your slide out. While most slide out equipped RVs can be used with the slides retracted, interior space is often limited and some features may be inaccessible with the slide retracted. If vehicle weight is a major consideration, remember that slide outs add weight. So if you need to stay below a maximum weight, you may not find slide outs to be a good choice. Why might you need to restrict the weight of your RV? Well, you might visit campgrounds where there are weight restrictions on bridges or ferries you may encounter en route. If you already have a trailer you tow behind your motorhome, you may have to limit the weight of the motorhome so as not to exceed the Gross Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR). Exceeding the GCVWR will have serious negative affects on handling, safety, mileage, performance, and longevity of your RV.
Slide outs CAN be added to some existing RVs, but generally it is cost prohibitive -- around $2000/foot. That makes a modest 14' addition cost $28,000, more than many used motorhomes taht already have slide outs! There may also be weight restrictions and serious structural considerations. Upgrading to a newer model with slide outs has other advantages as well, such as dual pane windows, improved insulation, and more energy efficient appliances with fewer hours of use. Since slide outs are a relatively recent innovation, you won't find them in older, more affordable RVs. In fact, the addition of slide outs is one factor that has made older units without them more affordable since many buyers often want slide outs. However, if you have a vintage RV you really love and want to add a slideout, it may be possible. Make sure your installer understands the engineering to ensure your rig can support the addition of a slide out.
Slide outs often have a "slide out topper" -- an awning that extends out over the slide out when it is extended, protecting the top from weather and the seals from UV damage. Toppers can usually be added to slides that don't have them.
Early model units with slide outs might look like a bargain, but make sure the seals are in tact and the slides all work smoothly, without any binding or straining. As slides age, the seals tend to break down and the mechanical parts get worn or bent. If they have had little use and have been properly cared for they may be just fine, but any lack of maintenance or any abuse could render them a disaster just waiting to happen. Seals and other replacement parts for older units may be obsolete and difficult or expensive to find. As often occurs with any technology, improvements have been made since slide outs were first introduced so, in the long run, it may pay to get a later model.
The availability of slide outs has had an impact on the resale value of older RVs that don't have them. That means you may be able to get a bargain price on a quality older unit that doesn't have slide outs if are OK with the smaller living space in camp. Before you completely throw out the idea, keep in mind RVs without slide outs have been around a long time and have provided great service, comfort, and convenience. You may be able to find an "open floor plan" that gives you some of the elbow room of slide outs without the extra cost. You may feel less claustrophobic in a newer model with slide outs, not only because of the extra room but because your wallet will be thinner and take up less space.
Slide in to slide outs!
Wednesday, October 5, 2011
Camping and OHV Skill Builders
There are many skills you may need for camping and OHV activities. Some of these skills you may be able to practice at home. Others will have to be exercised at appropriate hiking, water facilities, or OHV riding areas. Many of the skills you need for camping may be useful during a disaster. Make yourself a list of skills you want to master and choose at least one to practice on each outing.
Fire starting skills can be practiced many places. You don't have to build a campfire to practice although that is a good exercise. You can even use them in your fireplace at home. You especially should practice if you want to learn how to start a fire using flint and steel instead of matches or lighters. It takes a bit of practice before you get the knack of preparing tinder correctly and striking the sparks just right. I like to use 100% cotton balls for tinder. They work really well. Don't even try it with the synthetic "cosmetic puffs". They may look the same, but your sparks will just melt through instead of flaming like they will in cotton. It isn't very difficult, but it will take some practice before you can routinely get a fire going quickly. You don't want to waste time learning the technique when you are in an emergency or survival situation when your life or at least your comfort might depend on getting a fire going right away. Some flint and steel fire starter kits come from the factory with a protective coating that needs to be scraped away before you can get a good spark, so that is another reason to practice beforehand so it will be ready to use instantly when you really need it. Another good skill is being able to start a fire using only what nature provides. Most techniques involve friction to create enough heat to ignite an ember. Learn how to make and use a hand drill, a bow drill, and a fire plow.
Other camping skills you can practice at home include setting up your tent and camp cooking. Practice setting up your tent in your back yard so it is easy for you when you need it in camp -- or in a disaster situation. Know the best way to layout it out, stake it down, and raise it. Know the best way to take it down and put it away -- and how best to organize the components and any tools you need. You can practice camp cooking for holiday get-togethers or just family dinners. Try out different recipes. Try your hand at baking cakes and breads. Cooking on a camp stove or over a campfire is different than cooking on your home stove and it will take some practice before you are comfortable with it and able to get consistent results. You should get used to using your camp or RV stove or Dutch oven and try out some recipes where you still have alternatives if things turn out badly.
Dutch oven cooking is a good way to prepare meals in camp or at home during an emergency or power outage. It is kind of like a pioneer crockpot, allowing you to slow-cook an entire meal in one pot. Once set up it requires very little attention so you're free for other activities. Charcoal is the favored fuel for Dutch ovens. You usually put the oven on a bed of glowing coals then put several on the lid. Use one briquette on the lid for each inch of diameter of the pot. Be careful to brush away all the ash before opening the lid so you don't dump it into your food! Use a lid lifter or a pair of pliers to remove the lid so you don't burn your fingers!
Hiking skills. You can break in a new pair of hiking boots around home and taking some walks around the block but you'll need access to some real trails to do any real practicing. You'll encounter obstacles and terrain on the trail you won't find walking on sidewalks or even on the nice little trails in your local park. Try to find out as much as you can about any trail you choose to practice on. Local rangers or other hikers may be able to direct you to trails that will give you the kind of practice you're seeking -- and steer you away from trails you might find a little TOO challenging. Like any other physical sport, you'll want to start with the basics and work your way up. Trying to do too much too soon is a really good way to sour you and your family on the whole idea -- or even put someone in the hospital! Most people find a good walking stick is nice to have when hiking. You can make your own from a "found" stick, a sturdy dowel, or buy a commercial one. Home-made ones often bring along memories that are fun to relive. I also have a telescoping aluminum walking stick that makes it easy to store and carry it when I don't actively need it. Its light weight makes it less tiring to carry and use than a heavier wooden stick too.
Personal watercraft like JetSkis and SkiDoos or other water sports like water skiing and wakeboarding need to be exercised in appropriate waterways, away from swimmers, fishermen and other watercraft. The water needs to be deep enough so you don't run aground or hit submerged debris that could damage you or your craft or cause an accident. Might be a good idea to start out in water you can stand up in, just in case. Always wear a U.S. Coast Guard approved flotation device and have rescue spotters to keep an eye on you in case you get into trouble. The first time I went water skiing I barely even got wet. They pulled me up from sitting on the dock and I when I came back I coasted along the dock and sat down again. On the other hand, my brother's first attempt was very different. They tried to pull him up out of the water and for some reason no one knows, could never get him up on the skis.
Snowmobiles have a little more latitude. The best place to practice is in a snowmobile park with groomed trails, but if you happen to be lucky enough to live in a rural area and/or have access to open fields, you can begin your training there. Eventually you'll want to graduate to more technical trails where you can enjoy the thrills of whizzing through the trees and around obstacles, and as the old song says "Over the river and through the woods". There are several classes of snowmobiles. They range of heavy duty "work" machines to very fast performance models. You will want to choose the one that is appropriate for your experience level and the type of riding you intend to do. "Trail" rated machines are a pretty good place for beginners to start and you should pretty much stick to groomed trails. When you get the hang of it you can graduate to a "powder" machine that is faster and more powerful and will accommodate off-trail riding. So why not just start out with a powder machine? Well, the added power and quicker response in the hands of a novice is likely to overshoot the trail and result in inuring the rider.
OHV riding skills need to be developed if you are going to get the most out of your OHV. Unless you live in a rural area and have a large piece of property, you will need to go to a designated OHV area to practice. Plan your practice sessions according to the skill(s) you want to work on. Some common techniques you may want to master include hill climbing, riding in sand, riding rocky trails, negotiating your way over logs and large rocks, tight corners, berms, ruts, and fast trails. You usually should not try to cover all techniques in a single ride. Plan individual rides to focus on one or two particular skills and take advantage of natural terrain in the area where you are to exercise your techniques. Limit the number of riders so you can observe their performance and provide individual attention as needed so they get the most out of the ride. As new riders master skills, put them to work helping less-advanced riders. Not only will it take some of the load off you, it will help them to grow even more. Skill builder rides should ideally be led by an experienced rider who knows the trails and can judge the skill level of his students. Chances are you'll know or meet some riders who will be willing to lead some skill builders if you aren't ready yourself. Skill builder rides need to be interesting and fun. We had a favorite set of rolling hills near "C" Park in California City that were perfect for skill builders. It was even fun for experienced riders.
Driving skills. I recall an anecdote about a radio DJ who, hearing 85% of all drivers considered themselves good drivers, wanted to know why he was always on the road with the other 15%! Most of us probably think our driving skills are pretty good, but driving an RV -- motorhome or tow vehicle and trailer -- involves things you don't encounter wheeling around in the family sedan or SUV. RVs are bigger and heavier. They are slower to accelerate and decelerate and require more room for turns, stops, getting up to speed, and lane changes. They also have significantly different visibility issues, especially when it comes to rear-views for lane changes or backing into a camp site. Not to mention clearance problems -- height, width, overall length and overhang. If you have access to a motorhome driver education course, take advantage of it. They are usually conducted in large parking lots where you practice with your own RV. Often you will be guided using cones so the risk of damaging your RV or something else is minimized while you learn things like blind spots, turning radius, and clearances. If you are not completely comfortable driving your RV now, at least take some time to set up your own practice sessions in an empty parking lot. Fill empty milk jugs about half full with water and use them to layout your own obstacles. Practice making turns without knocking down the jugs representing the curb. Practice backing into a pretend camp site. Practice parallel parking your motorhome (and yes, it can be done!). If your RV is a trailer, make sure you practice backing it up. A handy trick is to move the bottom of the steering wheel in the direction you want the back of the trailer to go. You need to learn how sharply and quickly your trailer will turn, both going forward and backing up. Something novices often overlook is the way the overhang of an RV swings. I know of a driver who ripped the entire rear cap off a Class A motorhome he'd just purchased when he turned too sharply away from the curb and the rear end clipped a fire hydrant. Cutting a corner too close and running over a curb can have catastrophic results. RV steps, dump valves, and even propane tanks often hang low enough to be badly damaged if you turn too sharply and they hit the curb. I've seen RVs take out STOP signs and street signs when the driver turned too sharply at an intersection. Such problems are more common with trailers because the trailers sometimes "cheat" on you (don't follow the tow vehicle exactly, but turn sharper and cut the corner). Know how steep a driveway you can negotiate without tearing off the exhaust system or the back bumper or smashing your dump valves. You might be surprised how much that long overhang dips just going in and out of normal driveways. Always go slow in an unfamiliar situation. A little time spent practicing can avoid a lot of embarrassment and expense. No matter how good we think we are, most of us could use a little refresher and some practice now and then -- especially when driving a motorhome or truck and trailer that we don't drive every day!
Turn every camping trip into a learning experience for yourself and your family. Watch for "teaching moments" when you can take advantage of natural events to increase or share your knowledge of science, nature, and life lessons. Parents often have a tendency to try to do everything for their kids, to give them advantages they didn't have. Unfortunately, in so doing they often take away advantages they DID have -- like learning responsibility, self reliance, and the value of consequences. We don't want our kids to get hurt so we try to protect them from unpleasant consequences, but they really DO need to learn that there are consequences and that they are accountable for their own choices and actions. We may be able to protect them from bullies at school or insulate them from ill mannered playmates who might hurt their feelings (although by doing so we may deprive them if important life lessons), but we can't avoid consequences of gravity when they fall off their bikes. By the way, "protecting" them from many consequences deprives them of some of the most valuable lessons they'll ever learn. I heard a respected child educator promote allowing kids to experience natural consequences whenever possible. When natural consequences are not acceptable (like what will happen if they run out in the street and get hit by a car!), substitute "logical" consequences so they learn to stay away from unsafe and unacceptable behavior. My own kids suffered some sorry consequences of not maintaining and checking their dirt bikes and gear properly for every outing.
Riding OHVs and personal water craft usually require a certain amount of hands-on maintenance out on the trail or at the lake. It is very helpful to practice some of those skills at home so you learn what needs to be done, how to do it, and what tools you need. You probably don't want to make a field repair, even something as simple as changing a spark plug, your first attempt. Much better to try it at at home without a critical audience and when you aren't under pressure to get going.
Practice makes perfect!
Tuesday, October 4, 2011
Lighting Options for Tent Camping
Unless you pack along a portable generator or stay in a campground with electricity, your lighting options for tent camping will be limited to gas or battery powered units -- or candles and torches. Alternatively, there are a few vans and SUVs that have built in inverters that power a few 120-volt outlets. There are small, lightweight generators available today that could be used to power lights and small appliances for tent camping. Great strides have been made in the last few years in making portable generators smaller, quieter, more fuel efficient, and less expensive making them more appealing to tent campers. As mentioned above, some SUVs even come with built-in inverters and 120-volt outlets or you may be able to add one to your vehicle. Low power inverters (100-400 watts) that plug into the cigarette lighter outlet are available at modest cost and are easy to use. Just don't try to run high powered electric appliances using them. You can get higher powered inverters in the 1000-3000 watt range but they need to be hard wired using heavy gauge wire and need a lot of battery and/or alternator power to supply their needs. Running a high powered inverter using just your vehicle battery would quickly run it down.
Gas powered lanterns. One of the traditional staples of camp lighting for many years has been the Coleman gas lantern. Powered by white gas or propane, these lanterns give off a bright white light similar to an electric light bulb. They are relatively inexpensive -- usually under $50 and both white gas, in the form of Coleman fuel, and propane are readily available at most sporting goods stores. For a little extra $ you can get a dual-fuel lantern that will run on either white gas or ordinary unleaded gasoline. Dual fuel lanterns are a good choice for use in disaster situations where their flexibility may be a crucial factor. These lanterns gain their bright white light from glowing "mantles". These start out as little silk mesh socks but are burned to ash once installed so they tend to be a little fragile. Always make sure you have plenty of spares for camping and emergencies. Gas lanterns put out quite a bit of heat and the globes get VERY hot so you need to be careful using them in a tent. They also consume oxygen and emit toxic fumes so you need adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation.
Kerosene lanterns have fallen out of the popular use they once enjoyed. They cast a kind of orangish-yellowish light that isn't nearly as bright as a Coleman lantern and some people find the odor of the burning kerosene unpleasant. If you like the ambiance of a kerosene lantern but want to avoid the odor, try using scented lamp oil or "liquid paraffin". Citronella scented fuel will even help keep bugs away. Kerosene lanterns use a simple cotton wick so they aren't as fragile as the white gas and propane lanterns and allows considerable flexibility in controlling the level of light. Kerosene lanterns are less complicated and less expensive than propane or white gas lanterns. Y ou can usually find them for under $10 at stores like Walmart. That is a real bargain compared to around $90 for Coleman Dual-Fuel (white gas and unleaded gas)lantern. A quart of kerosene is about $6.00 where sporting goods are sold but you can use lamp oil or liquid paraffin if you don't like the odor. You may be able to buy kerosene cheaper in larger quantities at farm and ranch or fuel stores.
I do not recommend using either gas or kerosene lanterns inside a tent if you can avoid it. The globes get VERY hot and can easily start a fire or melt tent fabric. They also consume oxygen and give off toxic fumes which can make them unsafe to use in any confined space. If you must use one in your RV or tent, keep it away from flammable fabrics and make sure you have adequate ventilation. For safer and more effective tent lighting, use battery powered lanterns or flashlights or glow sticks. The heat given off by a gas or kerosene lantern can be an advantage if you need to warm up an area like a tent or inside a vehicle. Just be sure to keep them away from flammable surfaces and make sure you have adequate ventilation!
Candles are another nostalgic source of light but avoid using an open flame inside a tent! If a candle gets knocked over inside a tent, chances are the fire could rage out of control before you can escape. Tent fabrics are usually fire resistant but not fire proof. Citronella candles are helpful around the campsite to keep insects away. They are a good bet for picnic tables and in the "patio" area under the awning next to your RV -- just don't hang them close to the awning fabric. If you decide to use candles in your tent, lantern-like candle-holders will be a little safer than a loose candle.
Tiki torches, designed primarily for back yard or patio use, could also be used in camp. Fuel them with a citronella fuel and they'll also serve to repel insects. Smaller, wax based torches (kind of like big candles) can be used for a portable light source, but take care not to set the landscape or your fellow campers on fire! Dripping wax can be a fire hazard. Flashlights are a lot safer and a lot easier to use.
A milk jug filled with water with a headlamp type flashlight wrapped around it with the light facing in makes an interesting tent light, as long as you don't knock it over and spill water all over your tent! The jug and water make an excellent defuser to create a nicely distributed glow. If you want you could add food coloring to the water to create mood lighting.
I came across some battery powered, remote controlled, LED lights designed for use in above ground swimming pools. They have magnetic bases to attach to steel wall pools and metal plates that go on the outside of vinyl pools so the magnets can be used to attach them. This option will work just as well on a tent. The use of LEDs means the batteries will last longer than with incandescent bulbs and the remote control makes it nice to not have to crawl out of your warm sleeping bag to adjust the lighting.
Glow sticks are useful where bright light is not required or where you must avoid any possible source of ignition. They can provide sufficient light for dressing and undressing, for walking around camp, and for comfort and general conversation. They are usually not bright enough for reading or other detailed work. Glow sticks can not be turned off once they've been activated. They usually last 4-8 hours. They have a limited shelf life so storing them for long periods of time isn't feasible. However, I have noticed that old glow sticks seem to still be viable if the packaging is still puffy. If the packaging is flat, they're probably useless. I have a few glow sticks that expired in 1997 and some of them still worked almost 20 years later. I have noticed that the ones with deflated foil packages are always dead but the ones that are still puffy usually work. Foil wrapped glow sticks have a predicted shelf life of 2-4 years. They should be stored in a cool, dry place. Dampness can penetrate the plastic tube and will cause chemical deterioration. These are a good option to include in your emergency supplies. They are light weight, take up little space, and are safe to use even around fuel spills. They do not provide bright, reading-light levels of illumination, but are adequate for general lighting for safety and comfort and are certainly sufficient for routine tasks like getting dressed in a tent or finding your way to the bathroom. A light stick provides a surprising amount of comfort to trapped victims in a natural disaster. I made tubes to protect them in my fanny pack for dirt biking by cutting and capping PVC pipe to the right length. Storing them in these nearly air-tight container also seems to extend their shelf life.
Mountain Dew, baking soda, and hydrogen peroxide glow lights have been touted on many web sites including Youtube. The claim is that by adding hydrogen peroxide and baking soda to Mountain Dew you can make your own glow sticks. According to snopes.com, this is a hoax. Attempts by many people have failed. The Youtube "successes", though impressive, are said to be faked. Don't waste your time or ingredients trying this one.
Tiki torches lend nice ambiance and provide a nice flickering light for many outdoor activities. You can use citronella scented fuel to help keep insects at bay. They are great for extending a campfire ambiance over a larger area for night time activities in camp and in the back yard at home. Take care how you store your torches for transport. Keep them upright if you can. If you have to lay them down in a compartment, make sure you drain all the oil first or you'll have a dangerous mess the next time you open the cabinet. Store them in a well ventilated area. As the residual fuel in the wick evaporates it can create volatile fumes.
Firelight maintains the ambiance of camping. A large bonfire might be appropriate for a large group, but normally you don't want to don't make any fire bigger than it needs to be for the number of people it needs to warm and illuminate. Sometimes several small fires will do a better job of lighting an area and keeping people warm than one big one. One big fire keeps one side of you warm while the other side freezes. Standing or sitting between small fires or in a ring of small fires can provide all around warmth.
Battery powered lanterns and flashlights are safe and effective for use in tents and confined spaces. These days you can get LED lights that use about 1/12 the power of traditional flashlights. The "bulbs" last for tens of thousands of hours and batteries will last 10-12 times as long with LEDs than with ordinary flashlight bulbs. You can even get lanterns with built-in solar chargers to replenish the batteries during the day and those with remote controls so you can turn them on and off from the comfort of your sleeping bag. A handy variation is a combination light, one that provides both a flood light for general illumination and a focused flashlight for focused use. Depending on the size of the light, it may be powered from anything from AAA to the big square 6-volt batteries. By the way, if you take a square 6-volt dry cell battery apart is is made up of a bunch of AA size batteries. Something that might come in handy if you run of of AAs during a trip. If you choose battery powered lanterns, bring plenty of extra batteries on every camping trip -- or switch to rechargeable batteries and bring a generator and charger, a charger to run off your vehicle's cigarette lighter, or a solar charger. Most rechargeable lanterns come with both 12-volt DC chargers and 120-volt AC chargers. I recently picked up a pair of LED lanterns that look like old fashioned kerosene lanterns but are lit by 17 bright white LEDs and powered by 3 "D" cell batteries. The LED bulbs are advertised to last 100,000 hours and with the low power draw of LEDs, the batteries will last several nights before needing to be replaced. I once left one on in my barn over night and it was still going strong for for regular use weeks after that. And they don't get hot so they are ideal for use to light tents. A remote control is a nice feature, allowing you to hang the light high in the tent for best illumination but then being able to turn it on and off from the warmth of your sleeping bag. My favorite tent light is small enough and light enough to be used backpacking. It is about the size of two or three ball point pens bound together and is powered by 4 AAA batteries. It easily fits in a shirt pocket. It has two modes: a spot light in one end and an area light along one side, making it useful as both a handheld flashlight and an area light inside a tent.
Solar lights. I've seen solar yard lights at Dollar Tree on several occasions. We bought some Halloween styled models to light our walkway for Trick-or-Treaters. You might remove the stake from walkway lights and add a bail to hang them by. Or you can make a portable base using a can or flowerpot and some beans, glass beads, pebbles, or sand to hold the stake. Sometimes you will even find solar lights that already have a lantern style bail that is perfect for use in tents and on picnic tables. These inexpensive solar lights would work well in tents. They're safe and energy efficient. Just remember to hang them out in the sun during the day to get charged. Solar walkway lights can be used to illuminate tent stakes and guy ropes and other obstacles so you don't trip over them at night. I've used them on either side of my RV step on occasion to make it easier to find at night.
Natural lighting is a pleasant option when the moon is full or nearly so. If you haven't damaged your night vision with artificial light, moonlight is often enough to safely move about camp. You will be surprised how bright moonlight can be! Remember, moonlight is reflected sunlight. A measurement called "albedo" is used for reflectivity. 0 means none, 1 means 100%. The reflectivity of the moon is 0.12 so it reflects a little more than 10% of the sunlight that strikes it. Given how bright direct sunlight is, 10% is pretty bright -- enough to hurt your eyes, especially if you attempt to view the moon via a telescope or binoculars. Relying on natural light is especially helpful if you are engaged in star gazing or using a telescope to view the planets. Even a relatively small telescope will let you see the rings of Saturn, the red hue of Mars, and the Giant Red Spot on Jupiter. You can also get a pretty detailed view of the craters on the moon, but you may need filters for that. The moon is extremely bright when viewed through a telescope or even binoculars. If you need light to illuminate star maps when star gazing, use a flashlight with a red filter. It will give you enough light to read the star maps without destroying your night vision and spoiling your view through the telescope. You may want to remove the rain fly from your tent on clear nights so you can enjoy the view of the moon and stars if your tent itself has see-through netting on top as many double-wall tents do.
Lighten up!
Gas powered lanterns. One of the traditional staples of camp lighting for many years has been the Coleman gas lantern. Powered by white gas or propane, these lanterns give off a bright white light similar to an electric light bulb. They are relatively inexpensive -- usually under $50 and both white gas, in the form of Coleman fuel, and propane are readily available at most sporting goods stores. For a little extra $ you can get a dual-fuel lantern that will run on either white gas or ordinary unleaded gasoline. Dual fuel lanterns are a good choice for use in disaster situations where their flexibility may be a crucial factor. These lanterns gain their bright white light from glowing "mantles". These start out as little silk mesh socks but are burned to ash once installed so they tend to be a little fragile. Always make sure you have plenty of spares for camping and emergencies. Gas lanterns put out quite a bit of heat and the globes get VERY hot so you need to be careful using them in a tent. They also consume oxygen and emit toxic fumes so you need adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation.
Kerosene lanterns have fallen out of the popular use they once enjoyed. They cast a kind of orangish-yellowish light that isn't nearly as bright as a Coleman lantern and some people find the odor of the burning kerosene unpleasant. If you like the ambiance of a kerosene lantern but want to avoid the odor, try using scented lamp oil or "liquid paraffin". Citronella scented fuel will even help keep bugs away. Kerosene lanterns use a simple cotton wick so they aren't as fragile as the white gas and propane lanterns and allows considerable flexibility in controlling the level of light. Kerosene lanterns are less complicated and less expensive than propane or white gas lanterns. Y ou can usually find them for under $10 at stores like Walmart. That is a real bargain compared to around $90 for Coleman Dual-Fuel (white gas and unleaded gas)lantern. A quart of kerosene is about $6.00 where sporting goods are sold but you can use lamp oil or liquid paraffin if you don't like the odor. You may be able to buy kerosene cheaper in larger quantities at farm and ranch or fuel stores.
I do not recommend using either gas or kerosene lanterns inside a tent if you can avoid it. The globes get VERY hot and can easily start a fire or melt tent fabric. They also consume oxygen and give off toxic fumes which can make them unsafe to use in any confined space. If you must use one in your RV or tent, keep it away from flammable fabrics and make sure you have adequate ventilation. For safer and more effective tent lighting, use battery powered lanterns or flashlights or glow sticks. The heat given off by a gas or kerosene lantern can be an advantage if you need to warm up an area like a tent or inside a vehicle. Just be sure to keep them away from flammable surfaces and make sure you have adequate ventilation!
Candles are another nostalgic source of light but avoid using an open flame inside a tent! If a candle gets knocked over inside a tent, chances are the fire could rage out of control before you can escape. Tent fabrics are usually fire resistant but not fire proof. Citronella candles are helpful around the campsite to keep insects away. They are a good bet for picnic tables and in the "patio" area under the awning next to your RV -- just don't hang them close to the awning fabric. If you decide to use candles in your tent, lantern-like candle-holders will be a little safer than a loose candle.
Tiki torches, designed primarily for back yard or patio use, could also be used in camp. Fuel them with a citronella fuel and they'll also serve to repel insects. Smaller, wax based torches (kind of like big candles) can be used for a portable light source, but take care not to set the landscape or your fellow campers on fire! Dripping wax can be a fire hazard. Flashlights are a lot safer and a lot easier to use.
A milk jug filled with water with a headlamp type flashlight wrapped around it with the light facing in makes an interesting tent light, as long as you don't knock it over and spill water all over your tent! The jug and water make an excellent defuser to create a nicely distributed glow. If you want you could add food coloring to the water to create mood lighting.
I came across some battery powered, remote controlled, LED lights designed for use in above ground swimming pools. They have magnetic bases to attach to steel wall pools and metal plates that go on the outside of vinyl pools so the magnets can be used to attach them. This option will work just as well on a tent. The use of LEDs means the batteries will last longer than with incandescent bulbs and the remote control makes it nice to not have to crawl out of your warm sleeping bag to adjust the lighting.
Glow sticks are useful where bright light is not required or where you must avoid any possible source of ignition. They can provide sufficient light for dressing and undressing, for walking around camp, and for comfort and general conversation. They are usually not bright enough for reading or other detailed work. Glow sticks can not be turned off once they've been activated. They usually last 4-8 hours. They have a limited shelf life so storing them for long periods of time isn't feasible. However, I have noticed that old glow sticks seem to still be viable if the packaging is still puffy. If the packaging is flat, they're probably useless. I have a few glow sticks that expired in 1997 and some of them still worked almost 20 years later. I have noticed that the ones with deflated foil packages are always dead but the ones that are still puffy usually work. Foil wrapped glow sticks have a predicted shelf life of 2-4 years. They should be stored in a cool, dry place. Dampness can penetrate the plastic tube and will cause chemical deterioration. These are a good option to include in your emergency supplies. They are light weight, take up little space, and are safe to use even around fuel spills. They do not provide bright, reading-light levels of illumination, but are adequate for general lighting for safety and comfort and are certainly sufficient for routine tasks like getting dressed in a tent or finding your way to the bathroom. A light stick provides a surprising amount of comfort to trapped victims in a natural disaster. I made tubes to protect them in my fanny pack for dirt biking by cutting and capping PVC pipe to the right length. Storing them in these nearly air-tight container also seems to extend their shelf life.
Mountain Dew, baking soda, and hydrogen peroxide glow lights have been touted on many web sites including Youtube. The claim is that by adding hydrogen peroxide and baking soda to Mountain Dew you can make your own glow sticks. According to snopes.com, this is a hoax. Attempts by many people have failed. The Youtube "successes", though impressive, are said to be faked. Don't waste your time or ingredients trying this one.
Tiki torches lend nice ambiance and provide a nice flickering light for many outdoor activities. You can use citronella scented fuel to help keep insects at bay. They are great for extending a campfire ambiance over a larger area for night time activities in camp and in the back yard at home. Take care how you store your torches for transport. Keep them upright if you can. If you have to lay them down in a compartment, make sure you drain all the oil first or you'll have a dangerous mess the next time you open the cabinet. Store them in a well ventilated area. As the residual fuel in the wick evaporates it can create volatile fumes.
Firelight maintains the ambiance of camping. A large bonfire might be appropriate for a large group, but normally you don't want to don't make any fire bigger than it needs to be for the number of people it needs to warm and illuminate. Sometimes several small fires will do a better job of lighting an area and keeping people warm than one big one. One big fire keeps one side of you warm while the other side freezes. Standing or sitting between small fires or in a ring of small fires can provide all around warmth.
Battery powered lanterns and flashlights are safe and effective for use in tents and confined spaces. These days you can get LED lights that use about 1/12 the power of traditional flashlights. The "bulbs" last for tens of thousands of hours and batteries will last 10-12 times as long with LEDs than with ordinary flashlight bulbs. You can even get lanterns with built-in solar chargers to replenish the batteries during the day and those with remote controls so you can turn them on and off from the comfort of your sleeping bag. A handy variation is a combination light, one that provides both a flood light for general illumination and a focused flashlight for focused use. Depending on the size of the light, it may be powered from anything from AAA to the big square 6-volt batteries. By the way, if you take a square 6-volt dry cell battery apart is is made up of a bunch of AA size batteries. Something that might come in handy if you run of of AAs during a trip. If you choose battery powered lanterns, bring plenty of extra batteries on every camping trip -- or switch to rechargeable batteries and bring a generator and charger, a charger to run off your vehicle's cigarette lighter, or a solar charger. Most rechargeable lanterns come with both 12-volt DC chargers and 120-volt AC chargers. I recently picked up a pair of LED lanterns that look like old fashioned kerosene lanterns but are lit by 17 bright white LEDs and powered by 3 "D" cell batteries. The LED bulbs are advertised to last 100,000 hours and with the low power draw of LEDs, the batteries will last several nights before needing to be replaced. I once left one on in my barn over night and it was still going strong for for regular use weeks after that. And they don't get hot so they are ideal for use to light tents. A remote control is a nice feature, allowing you to hang the light high in the tent for best illumination but then being able to turn it on and off from the warmth of your sleeping bag. My favorite tent light is small enough and light enough to be used backpacking. It is about the size of two or three ball point pens bound together and is powered by 4 AAA batteries. It easily fits in a shirt pocket. It has two modes: a spot light in one end and an area light along one side, making it useful as both a handheld flashlight and an area light inside a tent.
Solar lights. I've seen solar yard lights at Dollar Tree on several occasions. We bought some Halloween styled models to light our walkway for Trick-or-Treaters. You might remove the stake from walkway lights and add a bail to hang them by. Or you can make a portable base using a can or flowerpot and some beans, glass beads, pebbles, or sand to hold the stake. Sometimes you will even find solar lights that already have a lantern style bail that is perfect for use in tents and on picnic tables. These inexpensive solar lights would work well in tents. They're safe and energy efficient. Just remember to hang them out in the sun during the day to get charged. Solar walkway lights can be used to illuminate tent stakes and guy ropes and other obstacles so you don't trip over them at night. I've used them on either side of my RV step on occasion to make it easier to find at night.
Natural lighting is a pleasant option when the moon is full or nearly so. If you haven't damaged your night vision with artificial light, moonlight is often enough to safely move about camp. You will be surprised how bright moonlight can be! Remember, moonlight is reflected sunlight. A measurement called "albedo" is used for reflectivity. 0 means none, 1 means 100%. The reflectivity of the moon is 0.12 so it reflects a little more than 10% of the sunlight that strikes it. Given how bright direct sunlight is, 10% is pretty bright -- enough to hurt your eyes, especially if you attempt to view the moon via a telescope or binoculars. Relying on natural light is especially helpful if you are engaged in star gazing or using a telescope to view the planets. Even a relatively small telescope will let you see the rings of Saturn, the red hue of Mars, and the Giant Red Spot on Jupiter. You can also get a pretty detailed view of the craters on the moon, but you may need filters for that. The moon is extremely bright when viewed through a telescope or even binoculars. If you need light to illuminate star maps when star gazing, use a flashlight with a red filter. It will give you enough light to read the star maps without destroying your night vision and spoiling your view through the telescope. You may want to remove the rain fly from your tent on clear nights so you can enjoy the view of the moon and stars if your tent itself has see-through netting on top as many double-wall tents do.
Lighten up!
Sunday, September 25, 2011
RV Exterior Lighting Options
On road lights on RVs are pretty much regulated by state and federal vehicle laws. You can usually safely replace clearance markers and may be able to upgrade headlights, but anything used on highway must meet applicable regulations. That includes driving lights and fog lights. Many campers like to add powerful off-road lights to their motorhomes or tow vehicles. Such lights should not be used on the highway. In most jurisdictions, these lights must also be covered when the vehicle is on the highway. Remote control search lights are popular on motorhomes and can be a real boon in scoping out your camp site after dark. Just don't use them on the highway! If your headlights don't deliver the performance you would like you may be able to upgrade to Halogen or other high intensity lights. There are even kits to convert your old sealed beam headlights to modern HID or LED lights that really light up the road. Just make sure they are DOT approved. I had a friend who discovered an air craft landing light that would fit in place of one of the sealed beam headlights on his pickup truck. It really lit up desert roads for him -- until he blinded an on coming Highway Patrolman. He got a stiff fine and was told to remove the light and never use it again. You may be able to supplement your headlights with driving lights. In most places, they can only be legally used on the highway when the headlights are on dim and are usually wired with a relay so they can only be turned on along with the dim headlight setting. Using them together with your bright lights is a good way to get a fix-it ticket or blind on coming drivers. In some jurisdictions the law requires you to turn off your driving lights when approaching an on-coming vehicle. In many places driving lights can only be used in conjunction with low beams. Always make sure your headlights are clean and clear and in good repair. A cracked, discolored, or damaged lens will alter the focus and efficiency of your headlights and possible shorten bulb life. Mud and snow accumulation on the lens will cause a surprising drop in output. Older, sealed-beam lights that are not damaged only need to be cleaned with window cleaner. Modern headlights have a polycarbonate lens that become "fuzzy", hazy, or discolored over time. They can usually be reconditioned for about $35-$50 per pair by a professional service that sands them down and polishes them to make them clear again. Some of these services add a clear coating when they're done that helps maintain clarity longer than an untreated lens. You can buy kits to do the cleaning yourself, but be aware the process is somewhat labor intensive and, if you don't don't have the right buffing equipment your results will probably be disappointing. I found a wet-wipe kit that clears up headlights with little effort. I have also seen articles that say you can used toothpaste or baking soda or WD40 to clean fogged headlights but haven't tried either one myself yet. The results are not as long-lasting as buffing and polishing, but they may be good enough and last long enough to pass a state safety inspection. Ultimately though, you want your headlights to be as clean and clear as possible for as long as possible so you can see where you are going at night! There are often several options for replacing the bulbs in these style headlights that give you more control over the amount of light. The best performing and longest lasting bulbs are going to cost more -- perhaps twice as much -- as standard replacement bulbs but it may be an easy way to get better (and legal) on road lighting. When upgrading bulbs be sure the sockets and fixtures are rated to accommodate the more powerful bulbs. Using over powered bulbs can damage the plastic lens, the reflector, and could cause the wiring to overheat and perhaps cause a fire.
Wiring is an infamous and chronic cause of poor headlight performance on motorhomes. The problem is when manufacturers wire the headlights directly through the headlight switch. Often the wire gauge used is barely adequate (and sometimes inadequate) for the high load headlights draw and the long wiring runs up under the dash and back sap power. You can often get significant gains by simply installing relays to connect your headlights via heavy gauge wiring directly to the battery -- and control the relays using the original headlight switch and wiring. That way, the heavy load appears only on heavy duty wiring directly from battery to headlights, instead of lengthy runs up through the headlight switch. If you're not up to doing the wiring yourself you may be able to purchase ready made harnesses to convert existing switch-wired installations to more efficient relay-based wiring, but even that requires some electrical system knowledge and skills. Directly wired headlight switches on motorhomes are more prone to failure due to the overloading the contacts because of the extra load created by the longer wiring runs and the high wattage of headlamp bulbs.
There are a variety of off -road lights available that can really light things up for you, ranging from bumper mounted driving light styles to massive roof-mounted light bars. Your choice may depend on cost, how much light you need, and where you can mount them on your vehicle. Most of these lights are not approved for highway use and in many jurisdictions must even be covered so they can not be used when the vehicle is on the road.
If you aren't happy with the running lights on your RV you may be able to upgrade both the headlights and the stop/tail lights. Older incandescent headlights can usually be easily replaced with Halogen versions that are easy to install. If you really want high performance headlights you can upgrade to HID headlights but it will require a new wiring harness and you might need professional help setting it up. The kits usually use the original wiring harness and switch to control the new HID headlights but they need relay controlled circuits direct from the battery to run the high powered bulbs. You may also need to consider whether the existing mounting location can withstand the additional heat produced by HID units. LED headlights will can usually replaced existing headlights without additional wiring or concerns about excess heat since they draw less current and run cooler.
Recreational lights are usually not restricted as long as they aren't used while on the road. Most RVs have at least one porch light near the entrance. A popular form is one that has a built-in assist handle for climbing into the RV. The better ones have a built-in waterproof switch so you can turn it on and off from outside the vehicle. Others may require a separate switch, which is usually inside the vehicle. If you don't like the light that came with your vehicle, you can usually replace it with another one for a nominal cost. You may also want to add other lights. I find it useful to have an exterior light on the front of my motorcycle trailer. It illuminates the tongue and hitch for hooking up at night and gives me light for the work area on and around the tongue. I have a bench vice mounted on my trailer tongue and a place to mount my motorcycle tire changer so the tongue frequently serves as a workshop. Extra side-mounted lights can help illuminate your camp site for night time group activities. Another candidate for extra lighting is the area near any outdoor shower, which are usually on the street side of an RV. You may find it helpful to mount an indicator light inside your RV for all outside lights. You can wire an LED in parallel with the lamp or just use a lighted switch. All you have to do is connect the hot wire of the LED to the hot wire of the lamp and the ground to any available ground. The small investment in time and money will avoid inadvertently leaving outside lights on and running down your batteries. Many off highway vehicles (usually 4x4s) have multiple off-road lights mounted on the bumper or front brush guard and or the roof or roll bar. These lights are great off-road but must never be used on the highway.
Porch lights are common on most RVs, providing illumination for unlocking the door and negotiating the steps after dark. Unfortunately, the switch is sometimes inside the RV so that you either have to leave the light on while you're away (possibly running down your batteries) or you have to unlock the door in the dark. A fun solution to this problem is to install a motion sensor LED light that will automatically come on when you approach your RV in the dark. Often these are battery powered so you don't even have to run any wiring to set them up. Replacing the incandescent bulb in the porch light with and LED bulb will let you leave the light on without as much chance of running down the batteries since LEDs draw much less power.
Entry step lights are another useful addition. RV steps are usually painted black and are difficult to see at night. Even with the porch light on they can be hidden in shadow. Reflective or glow-in-the dark tape can be added to highlight the edge of the steps to make them easier to see. I use LED clearance lights to illuminate my entry steps so I can leave them on when I'm out without running down the battery. I've left them on for an entire 4 day outing without running down my batteries. You want to install them so they illuminate the step but don't shine out into the camp site where they may annoy you or your fellow campers. Many RVs equipped with electric steps
already have step lights. Unless they are fairly new they are probably
incandescent bulbs that will suck up a lot of energy from your
batteries. Replacing them with LED lights should be pretty easy.
Adding a step light will require installing wiring and a switch. For
the most convenience use a switch that is opened when the step is
opened. Installing a simple toggle switch will be easier, but you'll
have to remember to turn in on and off. Battery powered "tap lights" might also be an option for illuminating your steps without draining your main batteries.
Awning lights are a popular and convenient way to add illumination with ambiance to the portable patio next to your RV. Some fancy models slide right into the awning roller tube. Others have to be attached using clips or hooks that slide into the roller tube or clamp to the awning fabric. You can even use ID card clips, available most places that sell office supplies. These spring loaded clips are usually easier to use than the snap-lock type clamps on standard awning clamps. You can get a variety of light styles. Some popular ones I've seen include miniature Coleman lanterns, American Flags, chili peppers, and colorful coach-light style lanterns. Most require 120-volt power but some newer LED versions will run on 12 volts. Remember, LEDs use a tiny fraction of the power of standard incandescent bulbs so if you're dry camping or just worried about draining battery power, look for LED versions. I recently watched the installation of a fancy 7-color LED rope light under an RV awning. It even has a remote control so you can change the color, speed, and pattern of light from the comfort of your easy chair. It is a really neat addition but at the time it was a bit pricey -- about $100 plus installation, but I've seen some knock-off on the market around $30 since then.
Exterior cabinet lights are a real boon when you have to find something in the dark. The most convenient ones come on automatically when you open the cabinet door but they require special switches. You can easily install lights with built-in switches -- they might be wired into the vehicle's 12-volt system or be battery powered. Batter powered "stick anywhere" lights can be found at hardware and building supply stores and don't need any wiring. Just make sure you check the batteries before each trip. If you're not using automatic switches, you'll have to remember to turn the lights off before you close the cabinet. Otherwise you are sure to forget they are on and run down the batteries. You might even want to wire in an indicator that is visible from the outside so you can tell when the lights are left on. Using an illuminated switch is an easy way to do this without extra lights and wiring. The switch itself is lighted whenever the switch is on.
General campground illumination. You may want to bring along some portable Halogen work lights for lighting up your camp site at night. The ones I use have folding, tripod stands that are very stable and highly adjustable. Of course you need 120-volt AC power to run them but I managed to find one that has a 12-volt option as well as the normal 120-volt power cord. Another option is lights equipped with spring clamps so you can clamp them to awning arms, mirrors, trees, sign posts, fences, OHVs, tables, etc. Incandescent versions of these are inexpensive and can be found at any hardware store or home center and you could put LED bulbs in them to reduce power requirements. And don't forget the old camp standard: the Coleman lantern. White gas or propane powered lanterns provide bright white light about like a 100-watt bulb. For a more rustic atmosphere, try some old fashioned kerosene lanterns. If you don't like the smell of kerosene lanterns you can run them on scented lamp oil or unscented "liquid paraffin". Nowadays there are also many choices for battery powered lanterns, including many LED lanterns that minimize battery drain. Of course a primary source of traditional camp site is the camp fire. Once you have a good campfire going you may not need any other lighting for many activities.
Searchlights and spotlights. Roof mounted remote control search lights are popular on high-end motorhomes. They usually have both "spot" and "flood" settings. The spot setting is used to illuminate distant objects like signs and landmarks. The flood setting can be used for general camp site illumination. Manually operated spotlights on cars and pickup trucks were once pretty popular, but are quite rate these days. Still, they can provide light up signs and landmarks to help you find your way to a remote camp at night. They might also be used during nighttime search and rescue operations. Hand held spotlights, both 12-volt versions that plug into your cigarette lighter and rechargeable models can approximate the function of permanently mounted spotlights without the expense or effort of what is often a difficult installation.
Creative lighting solutions. One of my motorhomes came with a pair of bright 120-volt flood lights mounted on the curb side to illuminate the campground. I didn't want to have to run the generator just to light things up and I wasn't very fond of poking more holes in the wall and cluttering up the outside of the RV with additional lights. My solution: mount 12-volt light bulbs inside the existing 120-volt fixtures. I bought a pair of 55-watt driving lights and cannibalized the sockets and bulbs from them and mounted them inside the existing 120-volt fixtures. I then pushed the wiring through the same hole as the original wiring and hooked it up to conveniently located new switches inside. That allowed me to run the lights on either 120-volts or 12-volts as the situation demands. For additional general campground illumination I mounted a 500-watt Halogen light on about a 5' piece of conduit connect to an old telescoping aluminum tent pole. I clamped PVC pipe sleeves to the RV ladder. When I need extra, broad-area lighting for group activities, I slide the tent pole through the pipe sleeves and plug the cord into an outside outlet on my RV. With the light raised about 4-5' above the roof of the RV, it provides very good general illumination for group activities. I also mounted a simple 12-volt utility light under the hood so I could see to check the oil after dark. It is an easy, inexpensive, and useful addition. I f you want to be really fancy you can even use a mercury or gravity switch on the hood so the light comes on automatically when you open the hood, like it does on many well-equipped automobiles. This is another spot that is a prime candidate for an inexpensive battery powered LED "tap light". I recently picked up a magnetic mount, battery operated light, with a remote control designed for use in above ground swimming pools. I figure it can be attached to any metal surface, such as my truck or limited components on my RV to provide general illumination for nighttime activities. It came with a metal plate for use on Doughboy type pools that would also allow it to be installed on a tent.
Portable lights add a lot of flexibility for camp ground use. I've tried a number of high-output battery powered spotlights, including rechargeable versions. Some of these send out a pencil-thin beam with a range up to a mile! There are also 12-volt versions that plug into your vehicle cigarette lighter or other 12-volt receptacle. I always keep several ordinary flashlights in my RV and trailer. I like to have a variety of sizes. Full 2,3, or even 5-cell flashlights are good for many routine tasks. Smaller 3" LED lights are useful in close quarters or if you need to tuck one in your pocket to light your way back to your RV after an evening stroll if you get back late. The big 5 D-cell lights double as tire-thumpers and would also be an effective self-defense device.
There are a variety of lantern holders that can be used to hang your gas or battery lanterns around camp. Some are made of chain that can be wrapped around trees; some are designed to clamp to or hang from your RV awning. I found some that consist of a tube that attaches to the side of your RV and contains a hook that slides out and connects to the top of the tube to create an arm on which to hang your lantern. Check out the options at your favorite RV or camping store. You might want to try out several styles. They usually are not very expensive. The ones designed to attach to trees usually have a light weight chain that wraps around the tree to hold the lantern hook in place. They work well on trees and wooden poles, but usually don't cling well to metal poles. Hangers for awnings are likely to slide into the accessory slot in the awning rail or clamp to the rafters. Always be careful hanging a gas lantern from your awning as they generate a lot of heat, enough to damage awning fabric if left on too long. Monitor prevailing breezes to make sure they aren't blowing the heat back under your awning or against the side of your tent or RV.
Light it up!
Wednesday, September 21, 2011
RV Interior Lighting Options
For many years RVs have come with 12-volt incandescent lights to illuminate the interior. They usually use standard, single-filament automotive bulbs. As with all incandescent bulbs, they are more efficient at producing heat than light and consume quite a bit of energy. I've had my coach batteries run down beyond use when someone left a single light on in the bathroom for an afternoon! Some RVs include a few 120-volt light fixtures that can be used when you are connected to shore power or running your generator. In some units with massive battery banks and inverter, you may even be able to run 120-volt lights off the inverter. Personally I think that is highly inefficient and would avoid it. Most RVs come with adequate lighting, but you may want additional lighting for convenience, special use, decoration, or to reduce energy consumption.
As mentioned above, incandescent 12-volt lights have been the standard for many years and are still in use in many new units. The bulbs are typically ordinary automotive bulbs that are inexpensive and readily available. If you already have or want to add incandescent lights to your RV, there is no strong reason not to. There are more energy efficient choices, but you're going to pay more for them initially and the replacement bulbs are going to be more costly and more difficult to find -- but they usually last longer too. Typical RV fixtures use an 1146 automotive bulb that typically sells for under $1.00. A single, LED kit designed to replace that 1146 bulb sells for up to $10 each, but prices are getting better so keep an eye open for good deals on LED kits.
Florescent lights have long been recommended as more energy efficient alternatives to incandescent lights. They are usually a bit more expensive and take up more room. Some people object to the the harsh white light. But they do use less electricity than incandescent bulbs and do not generate as much heat. They are most effective for general area lighting, usually as ceiling fixtures, although I have seen them installed vertically on either side of a bathroom mirror to provide effective lighting for shaving and applying makeup.
LED light fixtures are becoming more popular for use in RVs. They use even less energy than florescent lights and the LEDs last a very long time and are less subject to breakage. At this time they are still quite a bit more expensive to purchase than the other two options, but lifetime cost may be be lower. You can buy LED replacements to fit in the sockets of most standard incandescent RV light fixtures. They are a lot more expensive than ordinary automotive bulbs. Plan on paying at least $10.00 a pair (compared to $1.00-$2.00 a pair for incandescent bulbs), but they will last for tens of thousands of hours and are not subject to vibration failures that can plague hot filaments in ordinary bulbs so you won't have to replace them as often. They won't drain your batteries as quickly either, a significant benefit when boondocking. Make sure you get LEDs with sufficient power for the intended use of the light. I have found many LEDs from the auto parts store that replace as standard 1146 bulb inadequate for task lights for reading or food prep. Still, they work well for general illumination and will save a lot of battery power. There are brighter LEDs available, but they can cost close to $20 each!
Reading lights can be a nice touch if you need localized light for close activities like reading, knitting, hobbies, etc. If your RV didn't come with reading lights, they can usually be added fairly easily to the bottom of an overhead cabinet above your favorite reading spot. They are often referred to as "bullet" lights and can usually be easily aimed precisely where you need them -- much like the overhead lights on airliners. They usually have a built-in switch or you can wire a switch nearby. Most reading lights are incandescent but LED versions may be an option if they are bright enough. Most fluorescent lights are not focused enough to work well as reading lights.
Under cabinet lights in the galley are sometimes a nice addition if you don't already have them. Shadows from cabinets and from your own body often darken the counter top if all you have are the ceiling lights. Under cabinet lights are fairly easy to install. I would lean toward fluorescent or LED lights for efficiency unless you really need highly concentrated lights for special projects.
Accent lighting is popular on high-end units. It may take for form of sconces, "rope" or indirect lights along the edges of the ceiling, or walkway lighting to illuminate dark hallways at night. You can install your own walkway lighting using universal automotive license lights or LEDs. If you choose to do this, consider using 3-way switches to allow you to turn the lights on and off from both ends of the walkway. Ordinary single-pole/double-throw (SPDT) 12-volt toggle switches can be wired as 3-way switches. If you don't know how to do this, check with a qualified electrician. In one position the switch powers the light, in the other it powers the other switch. Avoid using a switch with a "center off" option as that position will turn off the lights AND disable the other switch. Walkway lighting should be installed in cabinet walls an inch or two above the floor. Just as in your fixed residence, sconces are sometimes used as accent lights in RVs. I personally find they stick out too far in what is often limited space in an RV without slide outs and prefer flat fixtures mounted on the ceiling or under cabinets but you could mount flat fixtures on the wall if necessary.
Walkway lights. Some RVs have a few walkway lights to illuminate the floor so you can find your way to the bathroom at night without having to turn on overhead lights that might disturb other sleepers. If yours doesn't have them, they are usually fairly easy to install near the bottom of cabinets. Walkway lights are excellent places to use LED bulbs since you don't need bright work area lighting and they could be left on all night without too much risk of running down the batteries. The fixtures used for walkway lights are often very similar to universal license plate lights, which could be used to add lights where you want them.
Propane lights were once common in truck campers and travel trailers but you don't usually see them in newer units. They are usually bulkier than 12-volt fixtures so they sometimes get in the way and, of course, they need a supply line from your propane tank, which is much larger and more difficult to install than simple 12-volt wiring. One advantage they had, at least on cooler nights, was the heat output helped keep the interior warm. On warmer nights, that was a decided disadvantage. Of course they didn't run your batteries down. I have often seen older units where the propane lights have been removed. If you remove a propane light, be sure to cap and seal the gas line properly. You don't want propane leaking into and accumulating inside your rig. The odor is very unpleasant and the results could be explosive! By the way, propane itself is odorless. The bad smell comes from chemicals added during manufacturing to aid in leak detection. The bad odor was chosen to ensure people would notice it. You probably wouldn't object and perhaps not even notice a sweet vanilla or lavendar smell and better smelling gas would probably be mistaken for cologne or air fresheners. If you have propane lights you can use them instead of 12-volt lights to conserve your RV batteries. If you're thinking of adding propane lights, your best bet would be to buy a portable propane lantern rather than trying to install one connected to the propane supply in your RV. Installing the gas line plumbing to accommodate a permanent fixture would probably be difficult, intrusive, and expensive.
Closet lighting is a nice feature of high-end units that can usually be added to any closet fairly easily. Closet lights can have a built-in switch or can be hard-wired to a convenient switch near the door. The most convenient ones have a door-activated switch so the light comes on automatically when you open the door. If you have closet lights, either factory-installed or add-ons, keep an eye on them. Normal use plus vibration and movement of the coach can cause the switches to need adjustment. If the switch is out of adjustment the light might not come on when you open the door -- or, worse yet, might not go off when you close the door -- and run your batteries down. Portable, battery powered "stick on" lights are an easy way to add lighting to closets or cabinets that don't have them. For longest life, choose those with LEDs rather than incandescent bulbs. If you have a problem leaving closet lights on and running down your batteries, consider wiring a single 12-volt LED indicator in the line between the switch and the light and installing it so comes on whenever the switch is on. Install it so it is visible on the outside of the closet to remind you the light is on. Single 12-volt LED indicators can be purchased at Radio Shack and other electronics supply stores.
Cabinet lighting is usually only found in exterior cabinets. General area lighting is usually adequate inside but feel free to add cabinet lighting where ever you need a little extra light to see into the corners. Exterior cabinet lights usually are automatic so the light comes on when you open the cabinet door. The switch may be one of several styles. There may be a plunger that is depressed to shut off the light when the door is closed or there may be toggle that is activated during opening and closing. Another variation, used on doors hinged at the top, is a mercury switch, which consists of a small vial of mercury with electrical contacts. When the door is opened, the mercury pools to connect the contacts. When the door is closed, it flows to the other end of the vial, leaving the contacts open. Lacking a mercury switch or plunger, you could install a manual switch. I would recommend using a lighted switch so it is obvious when the light is on so you don't close the cabinet and forget to turn it off. You might be able to buy used mercury or other "gravity" switches at an auto junk yard. They are often used to activate the light under the hood when the hood is opened.
Typical locations for general interior lighting include the ceiling and under cabinets. Ceiling lights provide general cabin illumination. Under-cabinet lights illuminate work spaces like counters, tables, and reading areas. If you aren't happy with the placement of the lights in your RV, you may be able to move them or add lights where you need them. The main trick is going to be installing the wiring to provide power and ground. When adding under-cabinet reading lights you can usually tap into wiring for existing under-cabinet lights. For ceiling lights you may have to run wires across the surface and conceal them with wire-guides if you can't "snake" wire from an existing fixture to the new one. Sometimes you can shove a piece of coat-hanger wire up through the opening for the new fixture and use it to fish wire through from an existing location, depending on the construction and type of insulation in your unit. This won't work if there are rafters, other cross-members, or rigid foam insulation between the new and old fixtures.
Bedroom lighting. I have not seen many RVs that come with lights that are convenient for turning on or off once you are in bed. Ceiling lights provide ample illumination but you can't reach them once you are in bed. Many reading lights are within easy reach when you're in bed but they are awkward to get to when you first enter the darkened bedroom. In some cases I've installed additional lighting on or under cabinets near the bed where I can reach them without getting out of bed. Battery powered "tap" lights are perfect for t his. Another solution is to find a way to install a switch near the bed to control the existing fixture. You might also add some indirect lighting controlled by a switch you can reach from bed to provide a nightlight for safe movement without hurting your eyes. I have a small light fixture with both white and blue lights we've moved from RV to RV for many years. The blue lights provide soft "mood" illumination that is convenient for getting ready for bed without being too bright or glaring. A convenient, but comparatively expensive solution, is remote control lighting where you can control the light using a hand-held "clicker". There are universal 12-volt remote kits for automotive use that could be adapted. The one's I've seen run as much as $100.00 and are rather bulky, used mostly for activating power door locks and similar devices, so they don't lend themselves to installation in a thin RV light fixture. But if you are determined, you may find room in the ceiling above the fixture to make it work. I found one version on Amazon.com for under $20, making this option a lot more viable but I haven't personally tested it. Remote control lights and fans are becoming a popular feature on high end units where tall ceilings put fixtures out of reach.
Bathroom lighting. You may want to upgrade the bathroom lighting in many RVs. While it is probably adequate for many routine tasks, it may not be sufficient for shaving and applying makeup. You may be able to add a pair of lights -- one on each side of the mirror -- to eliminate the shadows resulting from standard overhead lighting. A small night light might be useful for late night use to avoid the pain and loss of night vision that accompanies turning on the standard lights for nocturnal visits to the john. A little battery operated LED light, like a "tap" light, would be perfect for this.
Single LEDs can sometimes be installed to provide low, focused, energy efficient lighting for nighttime safety. Several LEDs mounted near the floor can mark the path to the bathroom -- or to the nearest exit -- a la air liner exit lighting. You can purchase these cheaply from Radio Shack and other electronic supply stores. They usually install in a simple 1/4" hole and are easy to wire. You could hook them up through a standard on-off switch or install an "electric eye" to turn them on at night and off when there is sufficient light for normal activities. I've also used single LEDs to illuminate navigational equipment that didn't have its own back-lighting and LED-based clearance lights to illuminate the entry step. It is nice to be able to leave the step light on without worrying about running down the batteries. The clearance marker lights provide enough light to illuminate the steps without offensive glare into the camp site and could be run for days without depleting the battery.
There are LED replacements for votive candles that provide a soft, romantic illumination. They are self-contained and battery powered so they required no wiring and won't run down your house batteries. They can be used alone or will fit perfectly in any votive candle holder. You can use them effectively where ever you need a little bit of light, such as in the bathroom at night.
Troubleshooting lighting problems. Fortunately, 12-volt interior lighting is fairly stable. The most common problems, burned out bulbs, are easy to detect and replace. A second common problem is a blown fuse. Next in line are loose connections. Dead batteries are also all too often to blame. If just one bulb does not light, it is probably a burned out bulb. Pull the cover off the light and inspect the bulb. If it is blackened inside or there are loose pieces of filament inside, it had likely failed. You can test the bulb in another fixture that you know is working or use an ohm meter to determine if the filament is broken: a good bulb will have measurable resistance, a bad one will have infinite resistance. If neither bulb in a single 2-bulb fixture lights and the bulbs are good, it is probably a blown fuse or a loose connection. Always check the ground connections as well as the power leads. Loose grounds are a VERY common problem in RV wiring. Sometimes the switch may go bad. You'll need a test light to check for a bad switch. First verify there is power reaching the switch from the RV wiring. Then test the output side. If your test light doesn't light up when the switch is in the ON position, the switch is bad. If none of the lights are working, the battery may be dead or disconnected. Some older units have a manual switch that selects either BATTERY or CITY POWER. If the switch is in the CITY POWER position and the unit is not connected to shore power or a generator, none of the 12-volt systems, including the lights will work. Fuses may be located in-line near the fixtures or in a central panel. You may be able to tell if a fuse is blown by visually inspecting it, but to be sure, use a test light. If it lights on the LINE side but not the LOAD side, the fuse is bad.
Dash lights. You probably don't have a lot of control over dash lights, but sometimes there are options. You may be able to replace the bulbs with colored or dyed bulbs to change the appearance. It usually isn't practical to install additional bulbs in gauges and instruments and attempting to do so could damage them. I have had some luck installing single colored LEDs wired into the dash lights to illuminate auxiliary instruments that lacked internal lighting.
Portable lighting is always an option. Battery powered lanterns and flashlights are the safest and easiest to use. Gas or kerosene lanterns are alternatives, but they both consume oxygen and give off dangerous fumes so you need to use them with caution and be sure to maintain adequate ventilation. They can be useful to help warm small spaces since they also give off a considerable amount of heat. A friend of mine heated his Class B van camper with a Coleman lantern. Candles lend a romantic atmosphere, but can be a fire hazard. Smoke from candles or kerosene lanterns may soil curtains, upholstery, walls, and ceilings. The odor from kerosene lanterns may permeate carpets, upholstery, curtains, bedding, and clothing so I avoid using kerosene inside. You might mitigate this problem by burning scented lamp fuel or liquid paraffin. Fragrant lamp fuels may be more pleasant than kerosene but the odor will cling to interior components long after the lamp has been extinguished so make sure you choose a fragrance you can live with long after the lamp is out. Liquid paraffin is sometimes difficult to find and a little pricey, but it burns clean and odor free.
Solar lights are a handy addition for RVers and tent campers. You need to remember to put them out in the sun to be charged if they are normally kept inside, but you don't have to worry about carrying extra batteries. I've even gotten cute little solar table lamps at my local dollar store!
Let there be light!
As mentioned above, incandescent 12-volt lights have been the standard for many years and are still in use in many new units. The bulbs are typically ordinary automotive bulbs that are inexpensive and readily available. If you already have or want to add incandescent lights to your RV, there is no strong reason not to. There are more energy efficient choices, but you're going to pay more for them initially and the replacement bulbs are going to be more costly and more difficult to find -- but they usually last longer too. Typical RV fixtures use an 1146 automotive bulb that typically sells for under $1.00. A single, LED kit designed to replace that 1146 bulb sells for up to $10 each, but prices are getting better so keep an eye open for good deals on LED kits.
Florescent lights have long been recommended as more energy efficient alternatives to incandescent lights. They are usually a bit more expensive and take up more room. Some people object to the the harsh white light. But they do use less electricity than incandescent bulbs and do not generate as much heat. They are most effective for general area lighting, usually as ceiling fixtures, although I have seen them installed vertically on either side of a bathroom mirror to provide effective lighting for shaving and applying makeup.
LED light fixtures are becoming more popular for use in RVs. They use even less energy than florescent lights and the LEDs last a very long time and are less subject to breakage. At this time they are still quite a bit more expensive to purchase than the other two options, but lifetime cost may be be lower. You can buy LED replacements to fit in the sockets of most standard incandescent RV light fixtures. They are a lot more expensive than ordinary automotive bulbs. Plan on paying at least $10.00 a pair (compared to $1.00-$2.00 a pair for incandescent bulbs), but they will last for tens of thousands of hours and are not subject to vibration failures that can plague hot filaments in ordinary bulbs so you won't have to replace them as often. They won't drain your batteries as quickly either, a significant benefit when boondocking. Make sure you get LEDs with sufficient power for the intended use of the light. I have found many LEDs from the auto parts store that replace as standard 1146 bulb inadequate for task lights for reading or food prep. Still, they work well for general illumination and will save a lot of battery power. There are brighter LEDs available, but they can cost close to $20 each!
Reading lights can be a nice touch if you need localized light for close activities like reading, knitting, hobbies, etc. If your RV didn't come with reading lights, they can usually be added fairly easily to the bottom of an overhead cabinet above your favorite reading spot. They are often referred to as "bullet" lights and can usually be easily aimed precisely where you need them -- much like the overhead lights on airliners. They usually have a built-in switch or you can wire a switch nearby. Most reading lights are incandescent but LED versions may be an option if they are bright enough. Most fluorescent lights are not focused enough to work well as reading lights.
Under cabinet lights in the galley are sometimes a nice addition if you don't already have them. Shadows from cabinets and from your own body often darken the counter top if all you have are the ceiling lights. Under cabinet lights are fairly easy to install. I would lean toward fluorescent or LED lights for efficiency unless you really need highly concentrated lights for special projects.
Accent lighting is popular on high-end units. It may take for form of sconces, "rope" or indirect lights along the edges of the ceiling, or walkway lighting to illuminate dark hallways at night. You can install your own walkway lighting using universal automotive license lights or LEDs. If you choose to do this, consider using 3-way switches to allow you to turn the lights on and off from both ends of the walkway. Ordinary single-pole/double-throw (SPDT) 12-volt toggle switches can be wired as 3-way switches. If you don't know how to do this, check with a qualified electrician. In one position the switch powers the light, in the other it powers the other switch. Avoid using a switch with a "center off" option as that position will turn off the lights AND disable the other switch. Walkway lighting should be installed in cabinet walls an inch or two above the floor. Just as in your fixed residence, sconces are sometimes used as accent lights in RVs. I personally find they stick out too far in what is often limited space in an RV without slide outs and prefer flat fixtures mounted on the ceiling or under cabinets but you could mount flat fixtures on the wall if necessary.
Walkway lights. Some RVs have a few walkway lights to illuminate the floor so you can find your way to the bathroom at night without having to turn on overhead lights that might disturb other sleepers. If yours doesn't have them, they are usually fairly easy to install near the bottom of cabinets. Walkway lights are excellent places to use LED bulbs since you don't need bright work area lighting and they could be left on all night without too much risk of running down the batteries. The fixtures used for walkway lights are often very similar to universal license plate lights, which could be used to add lights where you want them.
Propane lights were once common in truck campers and travel trailers but you don't usually see them in newer units. They are usually bulkier than 12-volt fixtures so they sometimes get in the way and, of course, they need a supply line from your propane tank, which is much larger and more difficult to install than simple 12-volt wiring. One advantage they had, at least on cooler nights, was the heat output helped keep the interior warm. On warmer nights, that was a decided disadvantage. Of course they didn't run your batteries down. I have often seen older units where the propane lights have been removed. If you remove a propane light, be sure to cap and seal the gas line properly. You don't want propane leaking into and accumulating inside your rig. The odor is very unpleasant and the results could be explosive! By the way, propane itself is odorless. The bad smell comes from chemicals added during manufacturing to aid in leak detection. The bad odor was chosen to ensure people would notice it. You probably wouldn't object and perhaps not even notice a sweet vanilla or lavendar smell and better smelling gas would probably be mistaken for cologne or air fresheners. If you have propane lights you can use them instead of 12-volt lights to conserve your RV batteries. If you're thinking of adding propane lights, your best bet would be to buy a portable propane lantern rather than trying to install one connected to the propane supply in your RV. Installing the gas line plumbing to accommodate a permanent fixture would probably be difficult, intrusive, and expensive.
Closet lighting is a nice feature of high-end units that can usually be added to any closet fairly easily. Closet lights can have a built-in switch or can be hard-wired to a convenient switch near the door. The most convenient ones have a door-activated switch so the light comes on automatically when you open the door. If you have closet lights, either factory-installed or add-ons, keep an eye on them. Normal use plus vibration and movement of the coach can cause the switches to need adjustment. If the switch is out of adjustment the light might not come on when you open the door -- or, worse yet, might not go off when you close the door -- and run your batteries down. Portable, battery powered "stick on" lights are an easy way to add lighting to closets or cabinets that don't have them. For longest life, choose those with LEDs rather than incandescent bulbs. If you have a problem leaving closet lights on and running down your batteries, consider wiring a single 12-volt LED indicator in the line between the switch and the light and installing it so comes on whenever the switch is on. Install it so it is visible on the outside of the closet to remind you the light is on. Single 12-volt LED indicators can be purchased at Radio Shack and other electronics supply stores.
Cabinet lighting is usually only found in exterior cabinets. General area lighting is usually adequate inside but feel free to add cabinet lighting where ever you need a little extra light to see into the corners. Exterior cabinet lights usually are automatic so the light comes on when you open the cabinet door. The switch may be one of several styles. There may be a plunger that is depressed to shut off the light when the door is closed or there may be toggle that is activated during opening and closing. Another variation, used on doors hinged at the top, is a mercury switch, which consists of a small vial of mercury with electrical contacts. When the door is opened, the mercury pools to connect the contacts. When the door is closed, it flows to the other end of the vial, leaving the contacts open. Lacking a mercury switch or plunger, you could install a manual switch. I would recommend using a lighted switch so it is obvious when the light is on so you don't close the cabinet and forget to turn it off. You might be able to buy used mercury or other "gravity" switches at an auto junk yard. They are often used to activate the light under the hood when the hood is opened.
Typical locations for general interior lighting include the ceiling and under cabinets. Ceiling lights provide general cabin illumination. Under-cabinet lights illuminate work spaces like counters, tables, and reading areas. If you aren't happy with the placement of the lights in your RV, you may be able to move them or add lights where you need them. The main trick is going to be installing the wiring to provide power and ground. When adding under-cabinet reading lights you can usually tap into wiring for existing under-cabinet lights. For ceiling lights you may have to run wires across the surface and conceal them with wire-guides if you can't "snake" wire from an existing fixture to the new one. Sometimes you can shove a piece of coat-hanger wire up through the opening for the new fixture and use it to fish wire through from an existing location, depending on the construction and type of insulation in your unit. This won't work if there are rafters, other cross-members, or rigid foam insulation between the new and old fixtures.
Bedroom lighting. I have not seen many RVs that come with lights that are convenient for turning on or off once you are in bed. Ceiling lights provide ample illumination but you can't reach them once you are in bed. Many reading lights are within easy reach when you're in bed but they are awkward to get to when you first enter the darkened bedroom. In some cases I've installed additional lighting on or under cabinets near the bed where I can reach them without getting out of bed. Battery powered "tap" lights are perfect for t his. Another solution is to find a way to install a switch near the bed to control the existing fixture. You might also add some indirect lighting controlled by a switch you can reach from bed to provide a nightlight for safe movement without hurting your eyes. I have a small light fixture with both white and blue lights we've moved from RV to RV for many years. The blue lights provide soft "mood" illumination that is convenient for getting ready for bed without being too bright or glaring. A convenient, but comparatively expensive solution, is remote control lighting where you can control the light using a hand-held "clicker". There are universal 12-volt remote kits for automotive use that could be adapted. The one's I've seen run as much as $100.00 and are rather bulky, used mostly for activating power door locks and similar devices, so they don't lend themselves to installation in a thin RV light fixture. But if you are determined, you may find room in the ceiling above the fixture to make it work. I found one version on Amazon.com for under $20, making this option a lot more viable but I haven't personally tested it. Remote control lights and fans are becoming a popular feature on high end units where tall ceilings put fixtures out of reach.
Bathroom lighting. You may want to upgrade the bathroom lighting in many RVs. While it is probably adequate for many routine tasks, it may not be sufficient for shaving and applying makeup. You may be able to add a pair of lights -- one on each side of the mirror -- to eliminate the shadows resulting from standard overhead lighting. A small night light might be useful for late night use to avoid the pain and loss of night vision that accompanies turning on the standard lights for nocturnal visits to the john. A little battery operated LED light, like a "tap" light, would be perfect for this.
Single LEDs can sometimes be installed to provide low, focused, energy efficient lighting for nighttime safety. Several LEDs mounted near the floor can mark the path to the bathroom -- or to the nearest exit -- a la air liner exit lighting. You can purchase these cheaply from Radio Shack and other electronic supply stores. They usually install in a simple 1/4" hole and are easy to wire. You could hook them up through a standard on-off switch or install an "electric eye" to turn them on at night and off when there is sufficient light for normal activities. I've also used single LEDs to illuminate navigational equipment that didn't have its own back-lighting and LED-based clearance lights to illuminate the entry step. It is nice to be able to leave the step light on without worrying about running down the batteries. The clearance marker lights provide enough light to illuminate the steps without offensive glare into the camp site and could be run for days without depleting the battery.
There are LED replacements for votive candles that provide a soft, romantic illumination. They are self-contained and battery powered so they required no wiring and won't run down your house batteries. They can be used alone or will fit perfectly in any votive candle holder. You can use them effectively where ever you need a little bit of light, such as in the bathroom at night.
Troubleshooting lighting problems. Fortunately, 12-volt interior lighting is fairly stable. The most common problems, burned out bulbs, are easy to detect and replace. A second common problem is a blown fuse. Next in line are loose connections. Dead batteries are also all too often to blame. If just one bulb does not light, it is probably a burned out bulb. Pull the cover off the light and inspect the bulb. If it is blackened inside or there are loose pieces of filament inside, it had likely failed. You can test the bulb in another fixture that you know is working or use an ohm meter to determine if the filament is broken: a good bulb will have measurable resistance, a bad one will have infinite resistance. If neither bulb in a single 2-bulb fixture lights and the bulbs are good, it is probably a blown fuse or a loose connection. Always check the ground connections as well as the power leads. Loose grounds are a VERY common problem in RV wiring. Sometimes the switch may go bad. You'll need a test light to check for a bad switch. First verify there is power reaching the switch from the RV wiring. Then test the output side. If your test light doesn't light up when the switch is in the ON position, the switch is bad. If none of the lights are working, the battery may be dead or disconnected. Some older units have a manual switch that selects either BATTERY or CITY POWER. If the switch is in the CITY POWER position and the unit is not connected to shore power or a generator, none of the 12-volt systems, including the lights will work. Fuses may be located in-line near the fixtures or in a central panel. You may be able to tell if a fuse is blown by visually inspecting it, but to be sure, use a test light. If it lights on the LINE side but not the LOAD side, the fuse is bad.
Dash lights. You probably don't have a lot of control over dash lights, but sometimes there are options. You may be able to replace the bulbs with colored or dyed bulbs to change the appearance. It usually isn't practical to install additional bulbs in gauges and instruments and attempting to do so could damage them. I have had some luck installing single colored LEDs wired into the dash lights to illuminate auxiliary instruments that lacked internal lighting.
Portable lighting is always an option. Battery powered lanterns and flashlights are the safest and easiest to use. Gas or kerosene lanterns are alternatives, but they both consume oxygen and give off dangerous fumes so you need to use them with caution and be sure to maintain adequate ventilation. They can be useful to help warm small spaces since they also give off a considerable amount of heat. A friend of mine heated his Class B van camper with a Coleman lantern. Candles lend a romantic atmosphere, but can be a fire hazard. Smoke from candles or kerosene lanterns may soil curtains, upholstery, walls, and ceilings. The odor from kerosene lanterns may permeate carpets, upholstery, curtains, bedding, and clothing so I avoid using kerosene inside. You might mitigate this problem by burning scented lamp fuel or liquid paraffin. Fragrant lamp fuels may be more pleasant than kerosene but the odor will cling to interior components long after the lamp has been extinguished so make sure you choose a fragrance you can live with long after the lamp is out. Liquid paraffin is sometimes difficult to find and a little pricey, but it burns clean and odor free.
Solar lights are a handy addition for RVers and tent campers. You need to remember to put them out in the sun to be charged if they are normally kept inside, but you don't have to worry about carrying extra batteries. I've even gotten cute little solar table lamps at my local dollar store!
Let there be light!
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