Camping and OHV Skill Builders

There are many skills you may need for camping and OHV activities.  Some of these skills you may be able to practice at home.  Others will have to be exercised at appropriate hiking, water facilities, or OHV riding areas.  Many of the skills you need for camping may be useful during a disaster.  Make yourself a list of skills you want to master and choose at least one to practice on each outing.

Fire starting skills can be practiced many places.  You don't have to build a campfire to practice although that is a good exercise.  You can even use them in your fireplace at home.  You especially should practice if you want to learn how to start a fire using flint and steel instead of matches or lighters.  It takes a bit of practice before you get the knack of preparing tinder correctly and striking the sparks just right.   I like to use 100% cotton balls for tinder.   They work really well.   Don't even try it with the synthetic "cosmetic puffs".  They may look the same, but your sparks will just melt through instead of flaming like they will in cotton.  It isn't very difficult, but it will take some practice before you can routinely get a fire going quickly.  You don't want to waste time learning the technique when you are in an emergency or survival situation when your life or at least your comfort might depend on getting a fire going right away.   Some flint and steel fire starter kits come from the factory with a protective coating that needs to be scraped away before you can get a good spark, so that is another reason to practice beforehand so it will be ready to use instantly when you really need it.   Another good skill is being able to start a fire using only what nature provides.   Most techniques involve friction to create enough heat to ignite an ember.   Learn how to make and use a hand drill, a bow drill, and a fire plow.

Other camping skills you can practice at home include setting up your tent and camp cooking. Practice setting up your tent in your back yard so it is easy for you when you need it in camp -- or in a disaster situation.  Know the best way to layout it out, stake it down, and raise it.  Know the best way to take it down and put it away -- and how best to organize the components and any tools you need.   You can practice camp cooking for holiday get-togethers or just family dinners.   Try out different recipes.  Try your hand at baking cakes and breads.  Cooking on a camp stove or over a campfire is different than cooking on your home stove and it will take some practice before you are comfortable with it and able to get consistent results.  You should get used to using your camp or RV stove or Dutch oven and try out some recipes where you still have alternatives if things turn out badly.

Dutch oven cooking is a good way to prepare meals in camp or at home during an emergency or power outage.   It is kind of like a pioneer crockpot, allowing you to slow-cook an entire meal in one pot.   Once set up it requires very little attention so you're free for other activities.  Charcoal is the favored fuel for Dutch ovens.  You usually put the oven on a bed of glowing coals then put several on the lid.  Use one briquette on the lid for each inch of diameter of the pot.  Be careful to brush away all the ash before opening the lid so you don't dump it into your food!  Use a lid lifter or a pair of pliers to remove the lid so you don't burn your fingers!

Hiking skills.  You can break in a new pair of hiking boots around home and taking some walks around the block but you'll need access to some real trails to do any real practicing.  You'll encounter obstacles and terrain on the trail you won't find walking on sidewalks or even on the nice little trails in your local park.  Try to find out as much as you can about any trail you choose to practice on. Local rangers or other hikers may be able to direct you to trails that will give you the kind of practice you're seeking -- and steer you away from trails you might find a little TOO challenging.  Like any other physical sport, you'll want to start with the basics and work your way up.  Trying to do too much too soon is a really good way to sour you and your family on the whole idea -- or even put someone in the hospital!  Most people find a good walking stick is nice to have when hiking.  You can make your own from a "found" stick, a sturdy dowel, or buy a commercial one.  Home-made ones often bring along memories that are fun to relive.  I also have a telescoping aluminum walking stick that makes it easy to store and carry it when I don't actively need it.  Its light weight makes it less tiring to carry and use than a heavier wooden stick too.

Personal watercraft like JetSkis and SkiDoos or other water sports like water skiing and wakeboarding need to be exercised in appropriate waterways, away from swimmers, fishermen and other watercraft.  The water needs to be deep enough so you don't run aground or hit submerged debris that could damage you or your craft or cause an accident.  Might be a good idea to start out in water you can stand up in, just in case.  Always wear a U.S. Coast Guard approved flotation device and have rescue spotters to keep an eye on you in case you get into trouble.   The first time I went water skiing I barely even got wet.  They pulled me up from sitting on the dock and I when I came back I coasted along the dock and sat down again.   On the other hand, my brother's first attempt was very different.  They tried to pull him up out of the water and for some reason no one knows, could never get him up on the skis.

Snowmobiles have a little more latitude.  The best place to practice is in a snowmobile park with groomed trails, but if you happen to be lucky enough to live in a rural area and/or have access to open fields, you can begin your training there.  Eventually you'll want to graduate to more technical trails where you can enjoy the thrills of whizzing through the trees and around obstacles, and as the old song says "Over the river and through the woods".   There are several classes of snowmobiles.   They range of heavy duty "work" machines to very fast performance models.   You will want to choose the one that is appropriate for your experience level and the type of riding you intend to do.   "Trail" rated machines are a pretty good place for beginners to start and you should pretty much stick to groomed trails.   When you get the hang of it you can graduate to a "powder" machine that is faster and more powerful and will accommodate off-trail riding.   So why not just start out with a powder machine?  Well, the added power and quicker response in the hands of a novice is likely to overshoot the trail and result in inuring the rider.

OHV riding skills need to be developed if you are going to get the most out of your OHV.  Unless you live in a rural area and have a large piece of property, you will need to go to a designated OHV area to practice.   Plan your practice sessions according to the skill(s) you want to work on.  Some common techniques you may want to master include hill climbing, riding in sand, riding rocky trails, negotiating your way over logs and large rocks, tight corners, berms, ruts, and fast trails.  You usually should not try to cover all techniques in a single ride.   Plan individual rides to focus on one or two particular skills and take advantage of natural terrain in the area where you are to exercise your techniques.   Limit the number of riders so you can observe their performance and provide individual attention as needed so they get the most out of the ride.  As new riders master skills, put them to work helping less-advanced riders.  Not only will it take some of the load off you, it will help them to grow even more.  Skill builder rides should ideally be led by an experienced rider who knows the trails and can judge the skill level of his students.  Chances are you'll know or meet some riders who will be willing to lead some skill builders if you aren't ready yourself.  Skill builder rides need to be interesting and fun.   We had a favorite set of rolling hills near "C" Park in California City that were perfect for skill builders.   It was even fun for experienced riders.

Driving skills.  I recall an anecdote about a radio DJ who, hearing 85% of all drivers considered themselves good drivers, wanted to know why he was always on the road with the other 15%!   Most of us probably think our driving skills are pretty good, but driving an RV -- motorhome or tow vehicle and trailer -- involves things you don't encounter wheeling around in the family sedan or SUV.   RVs are bigger and heavier.  They are slower to accelerate and decelerate and require more room for turns, stops, getting up to speed, and lane changes.  They also have significantly different visibility issues, especially when it comes to rear-views for lane changes or backing into a camp site.  Not to mention clearance problems -- height, width, overall length and overhang.  If you have access to a motorhome driver education course, take advantage of it.   They are usually conducted in large parking lots where you practice with your own RV.   Often you will be guided using cones so the risk of damaging your RV or something else is minimized while you learn things like blind spots, turning radius, and clearances. If you are not completely comfortable driving your RV now, at least take some time to set up your own practice sessions in an empty parking lot.  Fill empty milk jugs about half full with water and use them to layout your own obstacles.  Practice making turns without knocking down the jugs representing the curb.  Practice backing into a pretend camp site.   Practice parallel parking your motorhome (and yes, it can be done!).   If your RV is a trailer, make sure you practice backing it up. A handy trick is to move the bottom of the steering wheel in the direction you want the back of the trailer to go.  You need to learn how sharply and quickly your trailer will turn, both going forward and backing up.   Something novices often overlook is the way the overhang of an RV swings.   I know of a driver who ripped the entire rear cap off a Class A motorhome he'd just purchased when he turned too sharply away from the curb and the rear end clipped a fire hydrant.   Cutting a corner too close and running over a curb can have catastrophic results.   RV steps, dump valves, and even propane tanks often hang low enough to be badly damaged if you turn too sharply and they hit the curb.  I've seen RVs take out STOP signs and street signs when the driver turned too sharply at an intersection.  Such problems are more common with trailers because the trailers sometimes "cheat" on you (don't follow the tow vehicle exactly, but turn sharper and cut the corner).   Know how steep a driveway you can negotiate without tearing off the exhaust system or the back bumper or smashing your dump valves.  You might be surprised how much that long overhang dips just going in and out of normal driveways.  Always go slow in an unfamiliar situation.  A little time spent practicing can avoid a lot of embarrassment and expense.  No matter how good we think we are, most of us could use a little refresher and some practice now and then -- especially when driving a motorhome or truck and trailer that we don't drive every day!

Turn every camping trip into a learning experience for yourself and your family.  Watch for "teaching moments" when you can take advantage of natural events to increase or share your knowledge of science, nature, and life lessons.   Parents often have a tendency to try to do everything for their kids, to give them advantages they didn't have.  Unfortunately, in so doing they often take away advantages they DID have -- like learning responsibility, self reliance, and the value of consequences.  We don't want our kids to get hurt so we try to protect them from unpleasant consequences, but they really DO need to learn that there are consequences and that they are accountable for their own choices and actions.  We may be able to protect them from bullies at school or insulate them from ill mannered playmates who might hurt their feelings (although by doing so we may deprive them if important life lessons), but we can't avoid consequences of gravity when they fall off their bikes.   By the way, "protecting" them from many consequences deprives them of some of the most valuable lessons they'll ever learn.   I heard a respected child educator promote allowing kids to experience natural consequences whenever possible.  When natural consequences are not acceptable (like what will happen if they run out in the street and get hit by a car!),  substitute "logical" consequences so they learn to stay away from unsafe and unacceptable behavior.  My own kids suffered some sorry consequences of not maintaining and checking their dirt bikes and gear properly for every outing.

Riding OHVs and personal water craft usually require a certain amount of hands-on maintenance out on the trail or at the lake.  It is very helpful to practice some of those skills at home so you learn what needs to be done, how to do it, and what tools you need.  You probably don't want to make a field repair, even something as simple as changing a spark plug, your first attempt.  Much better to try it at at home without a critical audience and when you aren't under pressure to get going.

Practice makes perfect!

Lighting Options for Tent Camping

Unless you pack along a portable generator or stay in a campground with electricity, your lighting options for tent camping will be limited to gas or battery powered units -- or candles and torches.  Alternatively, there are a few vans and SUVs that have built in inverters that power a few 120-volt outlets.  There are small, lightweight generators available today that could be used to power lights and small appliances for tent camping.  Great strides have been made in the last few years in making portable generators smaller, quieter, more fuel efficient, and less expensive making them more appealing to tent campers.  As mentioned above, some SUVs even come with built-in inverters and 120-volt outlets or you may be able to add one to your vehicle.   Low power inverters (100-400 watts)  that plug into the cigarette lighter outlet are available at modest cost and are easy to use.   Just don't try to run high powered electric appliances using them. You can get higher powered inverters in the 1000-3000 watt range but they need to be hard wired using heavy gauge wire and need a lot of battery and/or alternator power to supply their needs.  Running a high powered inverter using just your vehicle battery would quickly run it down.

Gas powered lanterns.  One of the traditional staples of camp lighting for many years has been the Coleman gas lantern.   Powered by white gas or propane, these lanterns give off a bright white light similar to an electric light bulb.  They are relatively inexpensive -- usually under $50 and both white gas, in the form of Coleman fuel, and propane are readily available at most sporting goods stores.   For a little extra $ you can get a dual-fuel lantern that will run on either white gas or ordinary unleaded gasoline.   Dual fuel lanterns are a good choice for use in disaster situations where their flexibility may be a crucial factor.  These lanterns gain their bright white light from glowing "mantles".   These start out as little silk mesh socks but are burned to ash once installed so they tend to be a little fragile.  Always make sure you have plenty of spares for camping and emergencies.   Gas lanterns put out quite a bit of heat and the globes get VERY hot so you need to be careful using them in a tent.  They also consume oxygen and emit toxic fumes so you need adequate ventilation to prevent suffocation.

Kerosene lanterns have fallen out of the popular use they once enjoyed.   They cast a kind of orangish-yellowish light that isn't nearly as bright as a Coleman lantern and some people find the odor of the burning kerosene unpleasant.  If you like the ambiance of a kerosene lantern but want to avoid the odor, try using scented lamp oil or "liquid paraffin".  Citronella scented fuel will even help keep bugs away.  Kerosene lanterns use a simple cotton wick so they aren't as fragile as the white gas and propane lanterns and allows considerable flexibility in controlling the level of light.   Kerosene lanterns are less complicated and less expensive than propane or white gas lanterns. Y ou can usually find them for under $10 at stores like Walmart.  That is a real bargain compared to around $90 for Coleman Dual-Fuel (white gas and unleaded gas)lantern.  A quart of kerosene is about $6.00 where sporting goods are sold but you can use lamp oil or liquid paraffin if you don't like the odor.  You may be able to buy kerosene cheaper in larger quantities at farm and ranch or fuel stores.

I do not recommend using either gas or kerosene lanterns inside a tent if you can avoid it.  The globes get VERY hot and can easily start a fire or melt tent fabric.  They also consume oxygen and give off toxic fumes which can make them unsafe to use in any confined space.  If you must use one in your RV or tent, keep it away from flammable fabrics and make sure you have adequate ventilation.  For safer and more effective tent lighting, use battery powered lanterns or flashlights or glow sticks.  The heat given off by a gas or kerosene lantern can be an advantage if you need to warm up an area like a tent or inside a vehicle.   Just be sure to keep them away from flammable surfaces and make sure you have adequate ventilation!

Candles are another nostalgic source of light but avoid using an open flame inside a tent!   If a candle gets knocked over inside a tent, chances are the fire could rage out of control before you can escape.  Tent fabrics are usually fire resistant but not fire proof.  Citronella candles are helpful around the campsite to keep insects away.   They are a good bet for picnic tables and in the "patio" area under the awning next to your RV -- just don't hang them close to the awning fabric.   If you decide to use candles in your tent, lantern-like candle-holders will be a little safer than a loose candle.

Tiki torches, designed primarily for back yard or patio use, could also be used in camp.   Fuel them with a citronella fuel and they'll also serve to repel insects.   Smaller, wax based torches (kind of like big candles) can be used for a portable light source, but take care not to set the landscape or your fellow campers on fire!   Dripping wax can be a fire  hazard.  Flashlights are a lot safer and a lot easier to use.

A milk jug filled with water with a headlamp type flashlight wrapped around it with the light facing in makes an interesting tent light, as long as you don't knock it over and spill water all over your tent!  The jug and water make an excellent defuser to create a nicely distributed glow.   If you want you could add food coloring to the water to create mood lighting.

I came across some battery powered, remote controlled, LED lights designed for use in above ground swimming pools.   They have magnetic bases to attach to steel wall pools and metal plates that go on the outside of vinyl pools so the magnets can be used to attach them.  This option will work just as well on a tent.  The use of LEDs means the batteries will last longer than with incandescent bulbs and the remote control makes it nice to not have to crawl out of your warm sleeping bag to adjust the lighting.

Glow sticks are useful where bright light is not required or where you must avoid any possible source of ignition.  They can provide sufficient light for dressing and undressing, for walking around camp, and for comfort and general conversation.   They are usually not bright enough for reading or other detailed work.  Glow sticks can not be turned off once they've been activated.  They usually last 4-8 hours.  They have a limited shelf life so storing them for long periods of time isn't feasible. However, I have noticed that old glow sticks seem to still be viable if the packaging is still puffy. If the packaging is flat, they're probably useless.  I have a few glow sticks that expired in 1997 and some of them still worked almost 20 years later.  I have noticed that the ones with deflated foil packages are always dead but the ones that are still puffy usually work.  Foil wrapped glow sticks have a predicted shelf life of 2-4 years.  They should be stored in a cool, dry place.   Dampness can penetrate the plastic tube and will cause chemical deterioration.  These are a good option to include in your emergency supplies.  They are light weight, take up little space, and are safe to use even around fuel spills.  They do not provide bright, reading-light levels of illumination, but are adequate for general lighting for safety and comfort and are certainly sufficient for routine tasks like getting dressed in a tent or finding your way to the bathroom.  A light stick provides a surprising amount of comfort to trapped victims in a natural disaster.  I made tubes to protect them in my fanny pack for dirt biking by cutting and capping PVC pipe to the right length.   Storing them in these nearly air-tight container also seems to extend their shelf life.

Mountain Dew, baking soda, and hydrogen peroxide glow lights have been touted on many web sites including Youtube.   The claim is that by adding hydrogen peroxide and baking soda to Mountain Dew you can make your own glow sticks.   According to snopes.com, this is a hoax. Attempts by many people have failed.  The Youtube "successes", though impressive, are said to be faked.   Don't waste your time or ingredients trying this one.

Tiki torches lend nice ambiance and provide a nice flickering light for many outdoor activities.  You can use citronella scented fuel to help keep insects at bay.  They are great for extending a campfire ambiance over a larger area for night time activities in camp and in the back yard at home.   Take care how you store your torches for transport.  Keep them upright if you can.  If you have to lay them down in a compartment, make sure you drain all the oil first or you'll have a dangerous mess the next time you open the cabinet.   Store them in a well ventilated area.   As the residual fuel in the wick evaporates it can create volatile fumes.

Firelight maintains the ambiance of camping.  A large bonfire might be appropriate for a large group, but normally you don't want to don't make any fire bigger than it needs to be for the number of people it needs to warm and illuminate.   Sometimes several small fires will do a better job of lighting an area and keeping people warm than one big one.   One big fire keeps one side of you warm while the other side freezes.   Standing or sitting between small fires or in a ring of small fires can provide all around warmth.

Battery powered lanterns and flashlights are safe and effective for use in tents and confined spaces.  These days you can get LED lights that use about 1/12 the power of traditional flashlights. The "bulbs" last for tens of thousands of hours and batteries will last 10-12 times as long with LEDs than with ordinary flashlight bulbs.  You can even get lanterns with built-in solar chargers to replenish the batteries during the day and those with remote controls so you can turn them on and off from the comfort of your sleeping bag.  A handy variation is a combination light, one that provides both a flood light for general illumination and a focused flashlight for focused use.   Depending on the size of the light, it may be powered from anything from AAA to the big square 6-volt batteries. By the way, if you take a square 6-volt dry cell battery apart is is made up of a bunch of AA size batteries.   Something that might come in handy if you run of of AAs during a trip.   If you choose battery powered lanterns, bring plenty of extra batteries on every camping trip -- or switch to rechargeable batteries and bring a generator and charger, a charger to run off your vehicle's cigarette lighter, or a solar charger.  Most rechargeable lanterns come with both 12-volt DC chargers and 120-volt AC chargers.  I recently picked up a pair of LED lanterns that look like old fashioned kerosene lanterns but are lit by 17 bright white LEDs and powered by 3 "D" cell batteries.  The LED bulbs are advertised to last 100,000 hours and with the low power draw of LEDs, the batteries will last several nights before needing to be replaced.  I once left one on in my barn over night and it was still going strong for for regular use weeks after that.  And they don't get hot so they are ideal for use to light tents.   A remote control is a nice feature, allowing you to hang the light high in the tent for best illumination but then being able to turn it on and off from the warmth of your sleeping bag.  My favorite tent light is small enough and light enough to be used backpacking.  It is about the size of two or three ball point pens bound together and is powered by 4 AAA batteries.  It easily fits in a shirt pocket.  It has two modes:  a spot light in one end and an area light along one side, making it useful as both a handheld flashlight and an area light inside a tent.

Solar lights.  I've seen solar yard lights at Dollar Tree on several occasions.   We bought some Halloween styled models to light our walkway for Trick-or-Treaters.  You might remove the stake from walkway lights and add a bail to hang them by.   Or you can make a portable base using a can or flowerpot and some beans, glass beads, pebbles, or sand to hold the stake.  Sometimes you will even find solar lights that already have a lantern style bail that is perfect for use in tents and on picnic tables.  These inexpensive solar lights would work well in tents.  They're safe and energy efficient. Just remember to hang them out in the sun during the day to get charged.  Solar walkway lights can be used to illuminate tent stakes and guy ropes and other obstacles so you don't trip over them at night.   I've used them on either side of my RV step on occasion to make it easier to find at night.

Natural lighting is a pleasant option when the moon is full or nearly so.  If you haven't damaged your night vision with artificial light, moonlight is often enough to safely move about camp.  You will be surprised how bright moonlight can be!  Remember, moonlight is reflected sunlight.  A measurement called "albedo" is used for reflectivity.   0 means none, 1 means 100%.  The reflectivity of the moon is 0.12 so it reflects a little more than 10% of the sunlight that strikes it.  Given how bright direct sunlight is, 10% is pretty bright -- enough to hurt your eyes, especially if you attempt to view the moon via a telescope or binoculars.  Relying on natural light is especially helpful if you are engaged in star gazing or using a telescope to view the planets.  Even a relatively small telescope will let you see the rings of Saturn, the red hue of Mars, and the Giant Red Spot on Jupiter.  You can also get a pretty detailed view of the craters on the moon, but you may need filters for that.   The moon is extremely bright when viewed through a telescope or even binoculars.  If you need light to illuminate star maps when star gazing, use a flashlight with a red filter.  It will give you enough light to read the star maps without destroying your night vision and spoiling your view through the telescope.  You may want to remove the rain fly from your tent on clear nights so you can enjoy the view of the moon and stars if your tent itself has see-through netting on top as many double-wall tents do.

Lighten up!

RV Exterior Lighting Options

On road lights on RVs are pretty much regulated by state and federal vehicle laws.  You can usually safely replace clearance markers and may be able to upgrade headlights, but anything used on highway must meet applicable regulations.  That includes driving lights and fog lights.   Many campers like to add powerful off-road lights to their motorhomes or tow vehicles.  Such lights should not be used on the highway.  In most jurisdictions, these lights must also be covered when the vehicle is on the highway.  Remote control search lights are popular on motorhomes and can be a real boon in scoping out your camp site after dark.  Just don't use them on the highway!  If your headlights don't deliver the performance you would like you may be able to upgrade to Halogen or other high intensity lights.  There are even kits to convert your old sealed beam headlights to modern HID  or LED lights that really light up the road.   Just make sure they are DOT approved.   I had a friend who discovered an air craft landing light that would fit in place of one of the sealed beam headlights on his pickup truck.  It really lit up desert roads for him -- until he blinded an on coming Highway Patrolman.  He got a stiff fine and was told to remove the light and never use it again.  You may be able to supplement your headlights with driving lights.   In most places, they can only be legally used on the highway when the headlights are on dim and are usually wired with a relay so they can only be turned on along with the dim headlight setting.  Using them together with your bright lights is a good way to get a fix-it ticket or blind on coming drivers.  In some jurisdictions the law requires you to turn off your driving lights when approaching an on-coming vehicle.  In many places driving lights can only be used in conjunction with low beams.   Always make sure your headlights are clean and clear and in good repair.  A cracked, discolored, or damaged lens will alter the focus and efficiency of your headlights and possible shorten bulb life.  Mud and snow accumulation on the lens will cause a surprising drop in output.  Older, sealed-beam lights that are not damaged only need to be cleaned with window cleaner.  Modern headlights have a polycarbonate lens that become "fuzzy", hazy, or discolored over time.  They can usually be reconditioned for about $35-$50 per pair by a professional service that sands them down and polishes them to make them clear again.  Some of these services add a clear coating when they're done that helps maintain clarity longer than an untreated lens.  You can buy kits to do the cleaning yourself, but be aware the process is somewhat labor intensive and, if you don't don't have the right buffing equipment your results will probably be disappointing.  I found a wet-wipe kit that clears up headlights with little effort.   I have also seen articles that say you can used toothpaste or baking soda or WD40 to clean fogged headlights but haven't tried either one myself yet.  The results are not as long-lasting as buffing and polishing, but they may be good enough and last long enough to pass a state safety inspection.  Ultimately though, you want your headlights to be as clean and clear as possible for as long as possible so you can see where you are going at night!  There are often several options for replacing the bulbs in these style headlights that give you more control over the amount of light.  The best performing and longest lasting bulbs are going to cost more -- perhaps twice as much -- as standard replacement bulbs but it may be an easy way to get better (and legal) on road lighting.   When upgrading bulbs be sure the sockets and fixtures are rated to accommodate the more powerful bulbs.   Using over powered bulbs can damage the plastic lens, the reflector, and could cause the wiring to overheat and perhaps cause a fire.

Wiring is an infamous and chronic cause of poor headlight performance on motorhomes.   The problem is when manufacturers wire the headlights directly through the headlight switch.  Often the wire gauge used is barely adequate (and sometimes inadequate) for the high load headlights draw and the long wiring runs up under the dash and back sap power.  You can often get significant gains by simply installing relays to connect your headlights via heavy gauge wiring directly to the battery -- and control the relays using the original headlight switch and wiring.  That way, the heavy load appears only on heavy duty wiring directly from battery to headlights, instead of lengthy runs up through the headlight switch.  If you're not up to doing the wiring yourself you may be able to purchase ready made harnesses to convert existing switch-wired installations to more efficient relay-based wiring, but even that requires some electrical system knowledge and skills.  Directly wired headlight switches on motorhomes are more prone to failure due to the overloading the contacts because of the extra load created by the longer wiring runs and the high wattage of headlamp bulbs.

There are a variety of off -road lights available that can really light things up for you, ranging from bumper mounted driving light styles to massive roof-mounted light bars.  Your choice may depend on cost, how much light you need, and where you can mount them on your vehicle.  Most of these lights are not approved for highway use and in many jurisdictions must even be covered so they can not be used when the vehicle is on the road.

If you aren't happy with the running lights on your RV you may be able to upgrade both the headlights and the stop/tail lights.   Older incandescent headlights can usually be easily replaced with Halogen versions that are easy to install.  If you really want high performance headlights you can upgrade to HID headlights but it will require a new wiring harness and you might need professional help setting it up.  The kits usually use the original wiring harness and switch to control the new HID headlights but they need relay controlled circuits direct from the battery to run the high powered bulbs.  You may also need to consider whether the existing mounting location can withstand the additional heat produced by HID units.  LED headlights will can usually replaced existing headlights without additional wiring or concerns about excess heat since they draw less current and run cooler.

Recreational lights are usually not restricted as long as they aren't used while on the road.  Most RVs have at least one porch light near the entrance.  A popular form is one that has a built-in assist handle for climbing into the RV.  The better ones have a built-in waterproof switch so you can turn it on and off from outside the vehicle.  Others may require a separate switch, which is usually inside the vehicle.  If you don't like the light that came with your vehicle, you can usually replace it with another one for a nominal cost.  You may also want to add other lights.   I find it useful to have an exterior light on the front of my motorcycle trailer.   It illuminates the tongue and hitch for hooking up at night and gives me light for the work area on and around the tongue.  I have a bench vice mounted on my trailer tongue and a place to mount my motorcycle tire changer so the tongue frequently serves as a workshop.   Extra side-mounted lights can help illuminate your camp site for night time group activities.  Another candidate for extra lighting is the area near any outdoor shower, which are usually on the street side of an RV.  You may find it helpful to mount an indicator light inside your RV for all outside lights.  You can wire an LED in parallel with the lamp or just use a lighted switch.   All you have to do is connect the hot wire of the LED to the hot wire of the lamp and the ground to any available ground.  The small investment in time and money will avoid inadvertently leaving outside lights on and running down your batteries.   Many off highway vehicles (usually 4x4s) have multiple off-road lights mounted on the bumper or front brush guard and or the roof or roll bar.  These lights are great off-road but must never be used on the highway.

Porch lights are common on most RVs, providing illumination for unlocking the door and negotiating the steps after dark.   Unfortunately, the switch is sometimes inside the RV so that you either have to leave the light on while you're away (possibly running down your batteries) or you have to unlock the door in the dark.   A fun solution to this problem is to install a motion sensor LED light that will automatically come on when you approach your RV in the dark.  Often these are battery powered so you don't even have to run any wiring to set them up.  Replacing the incandescent bulb in the porch light with and LED bulb will let you leave the light on without as much chance of running down the batteries since LEDs draw much less power.

Entry step lights are another useful addition.  RV steps are usually painted black and are difficult to see at night.   Even with the porch light on they can be hidden in shadow. Reflective or glow-in-the dark tape can be added to highlight the edge of the steps to make them easier to see.  I use LED clearance lights to illuminate my entry steps so I can leave them on when I'm out without running down the battery.  I've left them on for an entire 4 day outing without running down my batteries.  You want to install them so they illuminate the step but don't shine out into the camp site where they may annoy you or your fellow campers.  Many RVs equipped with electric steps already have step lights.  Unless they are fairly new they are probably incandescent bulbs that will suck up a lot of energy from your batteries.  Replacing them with LED lights should be pretty easy.  Adding a step light will require installing wiring and a switch.  For the most convenience use a switch that is opened when the step is opened.  Installing a simple toggle switch will be easier, but you'll have to remember to turn in on and off.  Battery powered "tap lights" might also be an option for illuminating your steps without draining your main batteries.

Awning lights are a popular and convenient way to add illumination with ambiance to the portable patio next to your RV.  Some fancy models slide right into the awning roller tube. Others have to be attached using clips or hooks that slide into the roller tube or clamp to the awning fabric.  You can even use ID card clips, available most places that sell office supplies.  These spring loaded clips are usually easier to use than the snap-lock type clamps on standard awning clamps.  You can get a variety of light styles.  Some popular ones I've seen include miniature Coleman lanterns, American Flags, chili peppers, and colorful coach-light style lanterns.  Most require 120-volt power but some newer LED versions will run on 12 volts.  Remember, LEDs use a tiny fraction of the power of standard incandescent bulbs so if you're dry camping or just worried about draining battery power, look for LED versions.   I recently watched the installation of a fancy 7-color LED rope light under an RV awning.  It even has a remote control so you can change the color, speed, and pattern of light from the comfort of your easy chair.  It is a really neat addition but at the time it was a bit pricey -- about $100 plus installation, but I've seen some knock-off on the market around $30 since then.

Exterior cabinet lights are a real boon when you have to find something in the dark.  The most convenient ones come on automatically when you open the cabinet door but they require special switches.  You can easily install lights with built-in switches -- they might be wired into the vehicle's 12-volt system or be battery powered.  Batter powered "stick anywhere" lights can be found at hardware and building supply stores and don't need any wiring.  Just make sure you check the batteries before each trip.  If you're not using automatic switches, you'll have to remember to turn the lights off before you close the cabinet.   Otherwise you are sure to forget they are on and run down the batteries.  You might even want to wire in an indicator that is visible from the outside so you can tell when the lights are left on.  Using an illuminated switch is an easy way to do this without extra lights and wiring.  The switch itself is lighted whenever the switch is on.

General campground illumination.  You may want to bring along some portable Halogen work lights for lighting up your camp site at night.  The ones I use have folding, tripod stands that are very stable and highly adjustable.  Of course you need 120-volt AC power to run them but I managed to find one that has a 12-volt option as well as the normal 120-volt power cord.  Another option is lights equipped with spring clamps so you can clamp them to awning arms, mirrors, trees, sign posts, fences, OHVs, tables, etc.  Incandescent versions of these are inexpensive and can be found at any hardware store or home center and you could put LED bulbs in them to reduce power requirements.  And don't forget the old camp standard: the Coleman lantern.  White gas or propane powered lanterns provide bright white light about like a 100-watt bulb.  For a more rustic atmosphere, try some old fashioned kerosene lanterns.   If you don't like the smell of kerosene lanterns you can run them on scented lamp oil or unscented "liquid paraffin".  Nowadays there are also many choices for battery powered lanterns, including many LED lanterns that minimize battery drain.   Of course a primary source of traditional camp site is the camp fire.  Once you have a good campfire going you may not need any other lighting for many activities.

Searchlights and spotlights.   Roof mounted remote control search lights are popular on high-end motorhomes.  They usually have both "spot" and "flood" settings.  The spot setting is used to illuminate distant objects like signs and landmarks.  The flood setting can be used for general camp site illumination.  Manually operated spotlights on cars and pickup trucks were once pretty popular, but are quite rate these days.   Still, they can provide light up signs and landmarks to help you find your way to a remote camp at night.  They might also be used during nighttime search and rescue operations.  Hand held spotlights, both 12-volt versions that plug into your cigarette lighter and rechargeable models can approximate the function of permanently mounted spotlights without the expense or effort of what is often a difficult installation.

Creative lighting solutions.  One of my motorhomes came with a pair of bright 120-volt flood lights mounted on the curb side to illuminate the campground.  I didn't want to have to run the generator just to light things up and I wasn't very fond of poking more holes in the wall and cluttering up the outside of the RV with additional lights.  My solution: mount 12-volt light bulbs inside the existing 120-volt fixtures.   I bought a pair of 55-watt driving lights and cannibalized the sockets and bulbs from them and mounted them inside the existing 120-volt fixtures.   I then pushed the wiring through the same hole as the original wiring and hooked it up to conveniently located new switches inside. That allowed me to run the lights on either 120-volts or 12-volts as the situation demands.  For additional general campground illumination I mounted a 500-watt Halogen light on about a 5' piece of conduit connect to an old telescoping aluminum tent pole.   I clamped PVC pipe sleeves to the RV ladder.  When I need extra, broad-area lighting for group activities, I slide the tent pole through the pipe sleeves and plug the cord into an outside outlet on my RV. With the light raised about 4-5' above the roof of the RV, it provides very good general illumination for group activities.   I also mounted a simple 12-volt utility light under the hood so I could see to check the oil after dark.  It is an easy, inexpensive, and useful addition. I f you want to be really fancy you can even use a mercury or gravity switch on the hood so the light comes on automatically when you open the hood, like it does on many well-equipped automobiles.   This is another spot that is a prime candidate for an inexpensive battery powered LED "tap light".   I recently picked up a magnetic mount, battery operated light, with a remote control designed for use in above ground swimming pools.   I figure it can be attached to any metal surface, such as my truck or limited components on my RV to provide general illumination for nighttime activities. It came with a metal plate for use on Doughboy type pools that would also allow it to be installed on a tent.

Portable lights add a lot of flexibility for camp ground use.  I've tried a number of high-output battery powered spotlights, including rechargeable versions.  Some of these send out a pencil-thin beam with a range up to a mile!  There are also 12-volt versions that plug into your vehicle cigarette lighter or other 12-volt receptacle.   I always keep several ordinary flashlights in my RV and trailer.  I like to have a variety of sizes.  Full 2,3, or even 5-cell flashlights are good for many routine tasks. Smaller 3" LED lights are useful in close quarters or if you need to tuck one in your pocket to light your way back to your RV after an evening stroll if you get back late.  The big 5 D-cell lights double as tire-thumpers and would also be an effective self-defense device.

There are a variety of lantern holders that can be used to hang your gas or battery lanterns around camp.  Some are made of chain that can be wrapped around trees; some are designed to clamp to or hang from your RV awning.  I found some that consist of a tube that attaches to the side of your RV and contains a hook that slides out and connects to the top of the tube to create an arm on which to hang your lantern.   Check out the options at your favorite RV or camping store.  You might want to try out several styles.  They usually are not very expensive.  The ones designed to attach to trees usually have a light weight chain that wraps around the tree to hold the lantern hook in place.  They work well on trees and wooden poles, but usually don't cling well to metal poles.  Hangers for awnings are likely to slide into the accessory slot in the awning rail or clamp to the rafters.  Always be careful hanging a gas lantern from your awning as they generate a lot of heat, enough to damage awning fabric if left on too long.  Monitor prevailing breezes to make sure they aren't blowing the heat back under your awning or against the side of your tent or RV.

Light it up!

RV Interior Lighting Options

For many years RVs have come with 12-volt incandescent lights to illuminate the interior.  They usually use standard, single-filament automotive bulbs.  As with all incandescent bulbs, they are more efficient at producing heat than light and consume quite a bit of energy.   I've had my coach batteries run down beyond use when someone left a single light on in the bathroom for an afternoon!  Some RVs include a few 120-volt light fixtures that can be used when you are connected to shore power or running your generator.  In some units with massive battery banks and inverter, you may even be able to run 120-volt lights off the inverter.  Personally I think that is highly inefficient and would avoid it. Most RVs come with adequate lighting, but you may want additional lighting for convenience, special use, decoration, or to reduce energy consumption.

As mentioned above, incandescent 12-volt lights have been the standard for many years and are still in use in many new units.  The bulbs are typically ordinary automotive bulbs that are inexpensive and readily available.   If you already have or want to add incandescent lights to your RV, there is no strong reason not to.  There are more energy efficient choices, but you're going to pay more for them initially and the replacement bulbs are going to be more costly and more difficult to find -- but they usually last longer too. Typical RV fixtures use an 1146 automotive bulb that typically sells for under $1.00.  A single, LED kit designed to replace that 1146 bulb sells for up to $10 each, but prices are getting better so keep an eye open for good deals on LED kits.

Florescent lights have long been recommended as more energy efficient alternatives to incandescent lights.  They are usually a bit more expensive and take up more room.  Some people object to the the harsh white light.  But they do use less electricity than incandescent bulbs and do not generate as much heat.  They are most effective for general area lighting, usually as ceiling fixtures, although I have seen them installed vertically on either side of a bathroom mirror to provide effective lighting for shaving and applying makeup.

LED light fixtures are becoming more popular for use in RVs.  They use even less energy than florescent lights and the LEDs last a very long time and are less subject to breakage.   At this time they are still quite a bit more expensive to purchase than the other two options, but lifetime cost may be be lower.   You can buy LED replacements to fit in the sockets of most standard incandescent RV light fixtures.   They are a lot more expensive than ordinary automotive bulbs.   Plan on paying at least $10.00 a pair (compared to $1.00-$2.00 a pair for incandescent bulbs), but they will last for tens of thousands of hours and are not subject to vibration failures that can plague hot filaments in ordinary bulbs so you won't have to replace them as often.  They won't drain your batteries as quickly either, a significant benefit when boondocking.   Make sure you get LEDs with sufficient power for the intended use of the light.   I have found many LEDs from the auto parts store that replace as standard 1146 bulb inadequate for task lights for reading or food prep.  Still, they work well for general illumination and will save a lot of battery power.   There are brighter LEDs available, but they can cost close to $20 each!

Reading lights can be a nice touch if you need localized light for close activities like reading, knitting, hobbies, etc.   If your RV didn't come with reading lights, they can usually be added fairly easily to the bottom of an overhead cabinet above your favorite reading spot.  They are often referred to as "bullet" lights and can usually be easily aimed precisely where you need them -- much like the overhead lights on airliners.  They usually have a built-in switch or you can wire a switch nearby. Most reading lights are incandescent but LED versions may be an option if they are bright enough. Most fluorescent lights are not focused enough to work well as reading lights.

Under cabinet lights in the galley are sometimes a nice addition if you don't already have them. Shadows from cabinets and from your own body often darken the counter top if all you have are the ceiling lights. Under cabinet lights are fairly easy to install.  I would lean toward fluorescent or LED lights for efficiency unless you really need highly concentrated lights for special projects.

Accent lighting is popular on high-end units.  It may take for form of sconces, "rope" or indirect lights along the edges of the ceiling, or walkway lighting to illuminate dark hallways at night.  You can install your own walkway lighting using universal automotive license lights or LEDs.   If you choose to do this, consider using 3-way switches to allow you to turn the lights on and off from both ends of the walkway.  Ordinary single-pole/double-throw (SPDT) 12-volt toggle switches can be wired as 3-way switches.   If you don't know how to do this, check with a qualified electrician.   In one position the switch powers the light, in the other it powers the other switch.  Avoid using a switch with a "center off" option as that position will turn off the lights AND disable the other switch. Walkway lighting should be installed in cabinet walls an inch or two above the floor.   Just as in your fixed residence, sconces are sometimes used as accent lights in RVs.   I personally find they stick out too far in what is often limited space in an RV without slide outs and prefer flat fixtures mounted on the ceiling or under cabinets but you could mount flat fixtures on the wall if necessary.

Walkway lights.   Some RVs have a few walkway lights to illuminate the floor so you can find your way to the bathroom at night without having to turn on overhead lights that might disturb other sleepers.  If yours  doesn't have them, they are usually fairly easy to install near the bottom of cabinets.  Walkway lights are excellent places to use LED bulbs since you don't need bright work area lighting and they could be left on all night without too much risk of running down the batteries.  The fixtures used for walkway lights are often very similar to universal license plate lights, which could be used to add lights where you want them.

Propane lights were once common in truck campers and travel trailers but you don't usually see them in newer units.  They are usually bulkier than 12-volt fixtures so they sometimes get in the way and, of course, they need a supply line from your propane tank, which is much larger and more difficult to install than simple 12-volt wiring.  One advantage they had, at least on cooler nights, was the heat output helped keep the interior warm.   On warmer nights, that was a decided disadvantage. Of course they didn't run your batteries down.  I have often seen older units where the propane lights have been removed.  If you remove a propane light, be sure to cap and seal the gas line properly.  You don't want propane leaking into and accumulating inside your rig.  The odor is very unpleasant and the results could be explosive!  By the way, propane itself is odorless.  The bad smell comes from chemicals added during manufacturing to aid in leak detection.  The bad odor was chosen to ensure people would notice it.  You probably wouldn't object and perhaps not even notice a sweet vanilla or lavendar smell and better smelling gas would probably be mistaken for cologne or air fresheners.   If you have propane lights you can use them instead of 12-volt lights to conserve your RV batteries.  If you're thinking of adding propane lights, your best bet would be to buy a portable propane lantern rather than trying to install one connected to the propane supply in your RV.  Installing the gas line plumbing to accommodate a permanent fixture would probably be difficult, intrusive, and expensive.

Closet lighting is a nice feature of high-end units that can usually be added to any closet fairly easily. Closet lights can have a built-in switch or can be hard-wired to a convenient switch near the door. The most convenient ones have a door-activated switch so the light comes on automatically when you open the door.   If you have closet lights, either factory-installed or add-ons, keep an eye on them. Normal use plus vibration and movement of the coach can cause the switches to need adjustment.  If the switch is out of adjustment the light might not come on when you open the door -- or, worse yet, might not go off when you close the door -- and run your batteries down.  Portable, battery powered "stick on" lights are an easy way to add lighting to closets or cabinets that don't have them.   For longest life, choose those with LEDs rather than incandescent bulbs.  If you have a problem leaving closet lights on and running down your batteries, consider wiring a single 12-volt LED indicator in the line between the switch and the light and installing it so comes on whenever the switch is on. Install it so it is visible on the outside of the closet to remind you the light is on. Single 12-volt LED indicators can be purchased at Radio Shack and other electronics supply stores.

Cabinet lighting is usually only found in exterior cabinets.  General area lighting is usually adequate inside but feel free to add cabinet lighting where ever you need a little extra light to see into the corners.   Exterior cabinet lights usually are automatic so the light comes on when you open the cabinet door. The switch may be one of several styles.  There may be a plunger that is depressed to shut off the light when the door is closed or there may be toggle that is activated during opening and closing.  Another variation, used on doors hinged at the top, is a mercury switch, which consists of a small vial of mercury with electrical contacts.  When the door is opened, the mercury pools to connect the contacts.  When the door is closed, it flows to the other end of the vial, leaving the contacts open.   Lacking a mercury switch or plunger, you could install a manual switch.   I would recommend using a lighted switch so it is obvious when the light is on so you don't close the cabinet and forget to turn it off.  You might be able to buy used mercury or other "gravity" switches at an auto junk yard.   They are often used to activate the light under the hood when the hood is opened.

Typical locations for general interior lighting include the ceiling and under cabinets.  Ceiling lights provide general cabin illumination.  Under-cabinet lights illuminate work spaces like counters, tables, and reading areas.   If you aren't happy with the placement of the lights in your RV, you may be able to move them or add lights where you need them.  The main trick is going to be installing the wiring to provide power and ground.  When adding under-cabinet reading lights you can usually tap into wiring for existing under-cabinet lights.  For ceiling lights you may have to run wires across the surface and conceal them with wire-guides if you can't "snake" wire from an existing fixture to the new one.  Sometimes you can shove a piece of coat-hanger wire up through the opening for the new fixture and use it to fish wire through from an existing location, depending on the construction and type of insulation in your unit.  This won't work if there are rafters, other cross-members, or rigid foam insulation between the new and old fixtures.

Bedroom lighting.   I have not seen many RVs that come with lights that are convenient for turning on or off once you are in bed.  Ceiling lights provide ample illumination but you can't reach them once you are in bed.  Many reading lights are within easy reach when you're in bed but they are awkward to get to when you first enter the darkened bedroom.   In some cases I've installed additional lighting on or under cabinets near the bed where I can reach them without getting out of bed.  Battery powered "tap" lights are perfect for t his.  Another solution is to find a way to install a switch near the bed to control the existing fixture. You might also add some indirect lighting controlled by a switch you can reach from bed to provide a nightlight for safe movement without hurting your eyes.   I have a small light fixture with both white and blue lights we've moved from RV to RV for many years.  The blue lights provide soft "mood" illumination that is convenient for getting ready for bed without being too bright or glaring.  A convenient, but comparatively expensive solution, is remote control lighting where you can control the light using a hand-held "clicker".   There are universal 12-volt remote kits for automotive use that could be adapted.  The one's I've seen run as much as $100.00 and are rather bulky, used mostly for activating power door locks and similar devices, so they don't lend themselves to installation in a thin RV light fixture.   But if you are determined, you may find room in the ceiling above the fixture to make it work.   I found one version on Amazon.com for under $20, making this option a lot more viable but I haven't personally tested it. Remote control lights and fans are becoming a popular feature on high end units where tall ceilings put fixtures out of reach.

Bathroom lighting.  You may want to upgrade the bathroom lighting in many RVs.  While it is probably adequate for many routine tasks, it may not be sufficient for shaving and applying makeup. You may be able to add a pair of lights -- one on each side of the mirror -- to eliminate the shadows resulting from standard overhead lighting.  A small night light might be useful for late night use to avoid the pain and loss of night vision that accompanies turning on the standard lights for nocturnal visits to the john.   A little battery operated LED light, like a "tap" light, would be perfect for this.

Single LEDs can sometimes be installed to provide low, focused, energy efficient lighting for nighttime safety.  Several LEDs mounted near the floor can mark the path to the bathroom -- or to the nearest exit -- a la air liner exit lighting.  You can purchase these cheaply from Radio Shack and other electronic supply stores.  They usually install in a simple 1/4" hole and are easy to wire.  You could hook them up through a standard on-off switch or install an "electric eye" to turn them on at night and off when there is sufficient light for normal activities.  I've also used single LEDs to illuminate navigational equipment that didn't have its own back-lighting and LED-based clearance lights to illuminate the entry step.  It is nice to be able to leave the step light on without worrying about running down the batteries.  The clearance marker lights provide enough light to illuminate the steps without offensive glare into the camp site and could be run for days without depleting the battery.

There are LED replacements for votive candles that provide a soft, romantic illumination.  They are self-contained and battery powered so they required no wiring and won't run down your house batteries.  They can be used alone or will fit perfectly in any votive candle holder.  You can use them effectively where ever you need a little bit of light, such as in the bathroom at night.

Troubleshooting lighting problems.  Fortunately, 12-volt interior lighting is fairly stable.  The most common problems, burned out bulbs, are easy to detect and replace.   A second common problem is a blown fuse.  Next in line are loose connections.  Dead batteries are also all too often to blame.  If just one bulb does not light, it is probably a burned out bulb.  Pull the cover off the light and inspect the bulb.  If it is blackened inside or there are loose pieces of filament inside, it had likely failed.  You can test the bulb in another fixture that you know is working or use an ohm meter to determine if the filament is broken: a good bulb will have measurable resistance, a bad one will have infinite resistance.   If neither bulb in a single 2-bulb fixture lights and the bulbs are good, it is probably a blown fuse or a loose connection.  Always check the ground connections as well as the power leads. Loose grounds are a VERY common problem in RV wiring.   Sometimes the switch may go bad. You'll need a test light to check for a bad switch.  First verify there is power reaching the switch from the RV wiring.   Then test the output side. If your test light doesn't light up when the switch is in the ON position, the switch is bad.   If none of the lights are working, the battery may be dead or disconnected.   Some older units have a manual switch that selects either BATTERY or CITY POWER.  If the switch is in the CITY POWER position and the unit is not connected to shore power or a generator, none of the 12-volt systems, including the lights will work.   Fuses may be located in-line near the fixtures or in a central panel.   You may be able to tell if a fuse is blown by visually inspecting it, but to be sure, use a test light.   If it lights on the LINE side but not the LOAD side, the fuse is bad.

Dash lights.   You probably don't have a lot of control over dash lights, but sometimes there are options.  You may be able to replace the bulbs with colored or dyed bulbs to change the appearance. It usually isn't practical to install additional bulbs in gauges and instruments and attempting to do so could damage them.  I have had some luck installing single colored LEDs wired into the dash lights to illuminate auxiliary instruments that lacked internal lighting.

Portable lighting is always an option.  Battery powered lanterns and flashlights are the safest and easiest to use.  Gas or kerosene lanterns are alternatives, but they both consume oxygen and give off dangerous fumes so you need to use them with caution and be sure to maintain adequate ventilation.   They can be useful to  help warm small spaces since they also give off a considerable amount of heat.   A friend of mine heated his Class B van camper with a Coleman lantern.   Candles lend a romantic atmosphere, but can be a fire hazard. Smoke from candles or kerosene lanterns may soil curtains, upholstery, walls, and ceilings.  The odor from kerosene lanterns may permeate carpets, upholstery, curtains, bedding, and clothing so I avoid using kerosene inside.  You might mitigate this problem by burning scented lamp fuel or liquid paraffin.   Fragrant lamp fuels may be more pleasant than kerosene but the odor will cling to interior components long after the lamp has been extinguished so make sure you choose a fragrance you can live with long after the lamp is out.  Liquid paraffin is sometimes difficult to find and a little pricey, but it burns clean and odor free.

Solar lights are a handy addition for RVers and tent campers.   You need to remember to put them out in the sun to be charged if they are normally kept inside, but you don't have to worry about carrying extra batteries.  I've even gotten cute little solar table lamps at my local dollar store!

Let there be light!

Updating an Older RV

Perhaps the first question is why would anyone bother to update an older RV?   Given the bargains on late model units in today's slow economy, it might seem to make more sense to upgrade to a newer unit instead of sinking money into an older one.  That may be true, but there may still be valid reasons to update an older unit.   Sometimes it will be less expensive to update an older unit you have already paid for than to upgrade to a newer model.   Upgrades can be done in increments, as time and other resources are available, while upgrading to a newer unit usually requires a single, large expense or a commitment to years of additional payments.  Or maybe you just really like your current unit and would like to make some improvements to make it even more enjoyable.  Owners of classic motorhomes like the front wheel drive GMCs and the early Travcos may take special pride and satisfcation in their machines.  You may have seen conveniences in newer models that you could adapt to yours.  Sometimes newer appliances are also more efficient.  Or maybe you just want to update the appearance.   If you really like your existing RV you may have already customized it with features and accessories that meet your specific needs and it would be time consuming and probably expensive to repeat all the changes if you purchased a newer RV.  At one time I remember seeing offers to install slideouts on older RVs, but I don't know of anyone doing that these days. 

If you are buying your first RV and are on a limited budget, you may be able to pick up an older model for a song.  If it doesn't have any problems you can't deal with, you might save a ton of money and end up with a very unique and enjoyable rig.  A low initial purchase price may give you some extra $ for repairs, upgrades and improvements.

Financial considerations. There are many real estate studies to help us measure the value of improvements to our permanent residences but there are few if any to guide us in making wise investments in updating our RVs.   Updating an RV isn't so much about improving resale value as it is extending its useful lifetime to current owners and increasing the owner's enjoyment and convenience in using it.  If you really like your current RV and are comfortable using it and it doesn't have any major mechanical or structural flaws, you may want to explore your options to make it even more fun and extend its useful lifetime.   But don't expect to reap a big financial return on investments you make in an older unit.  Chances are you'll never recoup what you spend on updates.

Analysis will probably demonstrate that significant updating is unlikely to add enough to the resale value to make it a sound financial investment.   If a unit is in really bad shape a few well chosen, cost-effective repairs may help bring it up to market value, but major renovations and especially upgrades will almost never deliver a good monetary payback. The main payback for updating an older RV is owner satisfaction.   If you like your RV, it may be cheaper to update than to replace it -- without the risk of getting something you'll never like as well.  There may be some simple repairs and renovations that will enhance the resale appeal if not the actual value.  But don't count on making a quick buck or even breaking even on most updates!  Do count on enhancing the convenience and pleasure you get from using your RV.

If the upholstery is getting worn, having it re-done will add years of use and enjoyment and perhaps improve resale appeal even if it adds little to the actual price.  Many fabrics used in older RVs have a very dated look even if they are still in good condition.   Reupholstering the sofa and chairs will go a long way toward improving the interior appearance and extending its usable lifetime and visual appeal. The upholstery in one of my Smuggler trailers was beyond repair.  Fortunately, it was all removable cushions so I was able to simply remove them and take them in to be recovered.  I had them all recovered in a sturdy, Scotchgard protected fabric.  It looked like new inside and the seating and beds were far more comfortable.  I didn't have a particular color (other than being somewhat compatible with the existing carpet) or look I needed so my upholsterer was able to take advantage of closeout prices on a sturdy fabric that helped keep the cost down. If you can sew the new covers  yourself you can save even more.

Slip covers are not often used in RVs, but might provide a quick and inexpensive temporary solution to damaged upholstery in the living area.   Slip-on seat covers might work on the driver and co-pilot seats that often show the most wear and tear.  Plush or fleece covers can also make cold vinyl or leather seats more comfortable in winter months.

Flooring is usually a relatively easy and inexpensive update if you can do it yourself.  If your unit has linoleum or vinyl flooring you may be able to install press-and-place tile directly over the old surface for a quick and fairly inexpensive do-it-yourself upgrade.   If the old flooring is torn or worn through it should be removed and the under layment properly prepared before installing new tile or sheet goods.   A heat gun may be helpful in removing old glued down flooring.   I have used acetone to soften the residual glue and embedded backing so I could scrape it down enough to get a smooth surface.  Always ensure you have adequate ventilation when using solvents and adhesives.  If you are using sheet goods, try to remove the old flooring in one piece so you can use it as a pattern.  If that doesn't work, make a pattern from cardboard or newspaper so you can cut the new flooring exactly the first time.   Press and place tile is easier to work with than sheet goods.   If you cut one wrong you haven't wasted the whole sheet.  Carpeting is a little more difficult to install and may require some specialized tools (like "kickers") to ensure proper installation and fit.  In small, confined areas, like a little camper or trailer or a narrow hallway, you may be able to get away without having to tack the carpet into place. For larger areas and for more secure installations anywhere, use "tackless strips" along the edges or an adhesive over the entire floor to anchor the carpet.  What are the specific advantages of carpet or hard flooring?  Hard flooring is easier to clean which makes it ideal for galley and eating areas.  Carpet is warmer and softer to walk on for bedroom areas or if you just want warmer floors throughout your RV.   Carpet also provides additional insulation to prevent heat loss and reduce road noise.  If you don't have experience cutting carpet, make a pattern from newspaper or cardboard first and then cut the carpet to carefully match your pattern.  Patterns tend to "creep" so check alignment often to be sure your carpet will match your pattern and will fit properly.

A really quick and easy update is changing the bedspread and shams in the bedroom.  If you can make a bed you can easily implement this change yourself.   Select materials that match or complement the existing decor -- unless you also plan to change wallpaper, window treatments, and flooring.

Window treatments are another good candidate for updating.  Compared to some modifications they are relatively easy and inexpensive and done right will improve livability and enjoyment as well as updating the appearance.  Window treatments might include drapes, curtains, shades, or blinds or adding solar film to the windows.  For winter camping, you can use a clear stretch window covering on the outside for extra insulation if your unit doesn't already have dual pane windows.  You can also make inserts of reflective foam or "bubble" insulation to block heat in summer, hold in the heat in winter, control unwanted outside light, and ensure privacy inside.  Replacing any cracked, broken, or missing window panes kind of goes without saying and falls more into the maintenance category than upgrades -- unless you are upgrading from single to dual-pane windows.  Dual pane windows can conserve energy and improve interior comfort, but are a pretty expensive and difficult modification. However, any reasonably competent do-it-yourselfer should be able to handle the task if you can find matching sizes.  You simply remove all the screws securing the window frames, use a putty knife to loosen the "putty tape" that seals the window frame, remove the old window, apply NEW putty tape to the new window, put the new window into place, and re-install the screws.  Ideally you can purchase replacement windows the same size and shape as the old ones.   Otherwise you will have to modify the opening to fit the new windows.  If you have the right tools and know how to use them it is pretty easy to enlarge an existing opening, but very difficult to close one up to use a smaller window.   Upgrading the windows may be a pretty ambitions and expensive task if exact replacement sizes are not available, so beware.   Slight differences in the radius of the rounded corners can create major fit and installation problems resulting in unsightly patching and leaks.

Interior lighting updates are pretty easy and relatively inexpensive.  Replacing faded and inefficient existing lights with newer ones is the easiest, but adding more lights in convenient locations is usually a viable option as well.  Cracked or discolored shades, lenses, or covers can sometimes be replaced to improve existing lights at minimal cost and effort.  You can usually tap into to existing wiring inside the bottom shelf of cabinets if yo want to add new lights.  To add new ceiling lights you may have to "fish" wiring from an existing fixture or add surface "tracks" for the wire.  Automatic closet lights are a nice addition if you don't already have them.   Replacing existing incandescent fixtures with LED models will save battery power.

Closet and cabinet improvements.  Switching closet rods from the old standard bars to rods specially designed for RVs can keep your clothes from ending up on the floor on rough roads.   Adding shelves or organizers can greatly improve the convenience and efficiency of your cabinets.  To keep hangers on ordinary rods, try stuffing a big car wash size sponge on top of the rod over the hangers to keep them from bouncing off.   Replacing missing or damaged doors can sometimes avoid the cost of replacing the cabinets.

Exterior upgrades tend to move toward the high end, but there are a few things you can do without breaking the bank.  Wheel simulators can replace aging, missing or outdated wheel covers for a few hundred dollars and they make a big difference in the appearance.  Full body paint and graphics will really make an older unit look younger, but be prepared to shell out some significant bucks, especially if you want it done right.   Just a restoration of part of the paint (the lower 2') on my 40' Holiday Rambler cost the previous owner about $6000!  Sometimes you can update the paint on faded highlight panels on campers or travel trailers yourself using spray paint.   Small panels or stripes, say up to about a foot in height, are the best candidates.  It is really hard to get even coverage on larger areas with a spray can.  Be sure you prepare the old surface according to the requirements and recommendations for the paint you'll be using.  Then mask off the adjacent areas, and repaint the stripes.  If you aren't already skilled in applying spray paint, practice on a piece of cardboard until you can get a consistently smooth application.  You may have to apply several thin coats.  A common mistake of amateurs is to apply coats that are too thick.  This often causes unsightly runs and will slow drying time, allowing dust or small insects to become embedded in the paint.   If you do get runs you can sometimes gently blot them away and then touch up the spot with fresh spray.  I don't recommend spray can painting of large sections as it is difficult to get even coverage over large areas with a spray can.   But it can be a very cost effective improvement on smaller areas.   If the original finish itself is still in fairly good condition or can be restored, you might be able to upgrade the look with more modern vinyl stripes or graphics or even just replacing faded original graphics.  By the way, you might be surprised how much better your RV will look after just a good detailing.  It may take you a whole weekend to wash and wax an RV or you might have to spend a couple hundred bucks to have it done professionally, but when it has been completed, even a dated paint job will look a lot better when it is bright and shiny.   Faded, cracked, or missing lights and lenses can be easily replaced to add a "like new" touch.  And don't forget the chrome!  Most newer RVs have little "bright metal" trim but older units that do can usually benefit from a good shining.  If the chrome is beginning to pit you may be able to remove much of the rust by rubbing it with a penny or a copper kitchen scrubber.   The copper is soft enough so it doesn't damage the chrome while hard enough to scrape away the rust.  And you can, literally, do it for pennies!  Then polish it with a good metal polish.   I've used "chrome" spray paint fairly successfully to improve the appearance of rusted chrome.   It doesn't really come out looking like chrome but it is a lot nicer than rusty spots!   If the chrome surface is severely damaged, you may be able to remove the parts and have them re-chromed. Re-chroming is an electroplating process and can be somewhat expensive, especially if you don't prep the parts first.   Some accessories, like rear view mirrors are easy to replace and not too pricey.  You may even want to look at power or heated mirrors to add convenience as well as improve appearance. Newer mirror designs may even improve safety by giving you better visibility.   Some mirrors these days have integrated turn signal indicators that help remind you when you use your turn signals and add a touch of warning for nearby drivers.

Exterior lighting can often be upgraded at nominal costs.  You might want to upgrade your standard headlights to Halogen, HID, LED or other high performance lamps or add driving lights or fog lights. The OEM headlights on many older motorhomes were installed with substandard wiring.  Upgrading the wiring and connecting them directly to the battery via relays instead of running them directly from the headlight switch will often improve brightness.   Replacing faded, broken, or missing clearance lights, parking lights, etc will improve safety as well as appearance and might save you a fix-it ticket.  I found a kit to add turning lights to one of my motorhomes.  They were wired into both the parking lights for power and the turn signals to activate the side-facing lights much like those on luxury automobiles.  Unfortunately, I haven't seen any of those around since the 1990s so I don't know if they are still available.  Docking lights are a feature on many large, high-end vehicles and can be added to just about any RV fairly easily.  They usually mount about the middle of each side to illuminate the dark area between headlights and backup lights when backing into a camp site. OEM installations are usually recessed into the wall.  You might get away with installing ordinary driving lights beneath the coach -- if you have sufficient ground clearance.  You may also want to update existing porch lights or add more at convenient locations.  Most RVs come with at least one porch light near the entrance.  Other locations I've found convenient include the front of a trailer to illuminate the tongue area and hitch and near the outside shower.  I also added some really bright flood lights (salvaged from an ambulance) to the rear and the curb side of my motorcycle trailer to facilitate after-dark bike maintenance and illuminate group activities after dark.

Furniture, such as sofas, chairs, and tables can often be replaced to improve the appearance and functionality of your RV.  If your old sofa isn't a sleeper, switching to a sleeper can add room form more guests.  Sometimes you can replace dual chairs with a sofa for even more sleeping room if your family is out growing your present rig.  Dinette cushions can be easily replaced or recovered.

Cabinets and counter tops are usually too expensive to update, but you might try painting or refinishing cabinets for a fresh look.  I would only go after the cabinets if they were really ugly or badly damaged and then probably only in an older unit where any collateral damage wouldn't affect the resale value or appeal.   Damaged or missing doors might be replaceable.  If you can't match your existing doors, perhaps you could replace them all for an updated look. You might be able to use Contact Paper to recover some cabinets and doors.   If you have cabinets that are damaged beyond repair and have to be replaced you might be able to get replacements from a junked RV at a wrecking yard or find new pre-made cabinets at a home center or building supply store.   Measure carefully to be sure they will fit and that you can get them through the RV door!   Make sure you anchor them properly, keeping in mind they will be subjected to much greater stress than they would in a fixed residence.  If counter tops are damaged you will probably need the services of a professional to replace them.   If you do have to replace counter tops you might want to consider upgrading old Formica counters to solid-surface, ceramic tile, or even granite -- if your budget can handle it.  You might be able to pick up a suitable sized piece of granite from remnants from a residential counter top shop fairly cheaply, but you will still need professional equipment and/or help to cut it and finish it to fit your RV and to install it. Replacing damaged Formica is a fairly straightforward task, but because of the precision required for proper fit and clean, smooth joints, you will probably want to have it professionally done. Sometimes you can adapt a pre-made residential countertop from a home center if you can find one the right size.  Faded Formica can be difficult to restore but I've had good luck using the same SC-1 detail spray I use on my dirt bikes.

Appliances can be updated to replace damaged, defective, unattractive, or inefficient models in older units.   Or you might just want to have some of the features of newer models.   But, unless you have ready access to used units in good condition, this can be an expensive upgrade, especially if you try to replace them all at once.   If your appliances still function properly, consider a good cleaning and perhaps painting before costly replacement.  Be sure to use special appliance paint for best results and appropriate durability.  Stoves, ovens, range hoods, and painted refrigerators are all candidates for this.  Some refrigerators have a replaceable front panel to change the color or texture.  These panels can sometimes be refinished or covered with Contact Paper or wall paper for a new and fresh look if replacement panels are no longer available.  My dad removed the damaged and dated wallpaper covering from a fridge panel, then cleaned and varnished the underlying plywood panel. The result was a rather spectacular natural wood finish that blended with the rest of the paneled interior!  You may be able to add a roof air conditioner to a unit that didn't have one.  I once got one salvaged from a motorhome in a junkyard for just $100 to install on my enclosed motorcycle trailer. New ones will cost many times that.  Some motorhomes and trailers were pre-wired for air conditioners, making the installation fairly easy.  If yours was not pre-wired you'll have to run 120-volt wiring for the roof A/C and will probably have to add a breaker in the panel for it.  If you are not familiar with electrical wiring it is best to have this done by a professional -- a licensed electrician or a competent RV technician.  Roof A/Cs are usually designed to fit the same 14"x14" opening as a standard roof vent. Before adding a heavy A/C to the roof of your RV, check to see if it will support the load. You may have to remove an existing vent to inspect the supporting structure around the opening. If there is no supporting structure, consult a competent RV technician to see if adequate support can be added to ensure the heavy A/C unit doesn't come crashing down and bring a good part of the roof with it.  Stoves/ovens, water heaters, furnaces, and refrigerators are, of course, also candidates to be upgraded.  Try to find units with the same dimensions as the originals to minimize the amount of structural or cosmetic modifications needed for the change over.  Of course, if one of your goals is a larger fridge or bigger furnace, you will have to modify the surrounding cabinets to accommodate the new units.   Because of technological advances, you may be able to improve performance or capacity within the same footprint as the original models, so shop around.  If you do a lot of winter camping and your current furnace is inadequate, consider adding a second furnace. You will probably have to sacrifice some cabinet space, but it will be well worth it.   Be sure you understand all the installation requirements or hire a professional to assist you.  Improper installation could result in fire or an explosion.  A popular alternative to a second furnace is a catalytic heater. These are especially good for boondocking since they don't have a fan to consume battery power. Other popular appliances in newer units include ice makers and counter-top food processors.  These are not cheap upgrades but they do add convenience and functionality so they are worth considering -- especially if you can get your hands on some good used equipment at a reasonable price.  One way to get used equipment is to buy a "donor" vehicle, a used or salvage motorhome or trailer that has appliances or fixtures you can scavenge for your RV. I've seen fairly late model salvage travel trailers offered for as little as $100.

Entertainment systems.  Many new luxury RVs come with elaborate home theater systems.  Older units can often benefit from the addition of a simple radio/cassette/CD player or a portable TV.   If you have the cabinet space to spare and the budget, you can install permanent entertainment options to fit your wants and needs.   I found it convenient to use a combination DVD/VCR unit in my motorhome.  It saves space and simplifies wiring and switching between sources.  These days you may also need a digital converter if your TV isn't digital ready.  A "batwing" roof antenna usually does a pretty good job of grabbing over-the-air TV signals.  There are digital upgrades that can be installed on older antennas if necessary.   For the ultimate viewing choices, consider a satellite receiver system.  These are fairly expensive and require a monthly fee to the satellite provider. Satellite antenna options include portable models you set on the ground or on a table and permanent, roof-mounted dishes.   The ultimate antenna can even be used on the road and automatically re-aligns itself as you drive, but these are very expensive.  Modern flat screen TVs with built in DVD players are reasonably priced and and be installed just about anywhere.  The are much lighter and used much less electricity than the older CRT models.

A generator is a desirable addition if you don't already have one.  You'll need to find an appropriate place to mount it.   It will have to be in an exterior cabinet that is sealed against fumes entering the coach.  It should also be well insulated to minimize noise levels inside the coach.  You may have to add insulation to achieve satisfactory results.  On travel trailers you may be able to mount it on the tongue or build a rack on the back bumper.  Other considerations include access to the fuel supply and wiring to feed the power to the coach's existing 120-volt system -- or wiring your own system if there is none in place to start with.  The simplest way to connect a generator is to wire it to a receptacle in the power cord storage compartment where you can plug in the existing shore power line.   Buying a used generator in good condition can save you hundreds of dollars. so check out your favorite sources -- local classified ads, ebay, cragislist, and local junk yards.   For even more convenience, consider connecting the generator through an automatic transfer switch.  Then you don't have to plug and unplug the shore power line each time you want to use the generator.  You will want to select a generator whose fuel supply is compatible with the fuel your vehicle already uses.  Options include gasoline, diesel, and propane powered generators. Some diesel powered motorhomes use propane powered generators and they are also a good choice for trailers, which don't have a source of motor fuel.

Automatic transfer switches are a nice addition if you don't already have one.  These devices sense when the generator is running and automatically switch from shore power to generator power.   If you already have a generator but have to plug and unplug your shore power line when using it, adding an automatic transfer switch may be a viable option.  You can expect to pay $100 to $300 for one and, unless you are a qualified electrician, may have to have it professionally installed to ensure safety and proper operation.

Upgrades that add comfort and driving enjoyment may not be readily visible to the average on-looker but are still often worth considering for owner comfort and satisfaction.   Perhaps one of the most frequent changes are suspension improvements.  This could be as simple as replacing worn shock absorbers with better quality units or as complex and expensive as upgrading the entire suspension and adding anti-sway bars.  Just replacing worn-out shocks can significantly improve the ride and handling of older units.  I've seen owners add shock absorbers to travel trailers that didn't have any to reduce how much things get tossed around inside on rough roads and reduce the jerking on the tow vehicle.  When I broke a spring on one of my "Smuggler" trailers, I replaced and upgraded both springs to enhance the load bearing capacity of the suspension.  You should always replace both springs if one breaks to maintain even weight distribution and performance.   Upgrading my springs gave me a little extra ground clearance on desert roads and negotiating in and out of primitive camp sites as well as increased carrying capacity and a better ride.   A major consideration when replacing springs are the dimensions -- the overall length and the width of the leaves and the mounting eye. You may need different sized U-bolts to mount the new springs. It is a very good idea to use new U-bolts anyway, even if the old ones will still fit. The old ones will have been stretched and stressed by torquing and use.  A well advertised option is the addition or air bags to increase weight capacities and stiffen suspension to improve handling.  This can be very effective in many situations but I urge you to use caution.   I have seen airbag installations that resulted in bending the motorhome frame because they altered the weight distribution.  The bags were mounted directly over the rear axle where the frame was the weakest and became the primary load bearing point.  OEM airbag installations often reinforce the frame to avoid this problem.   I had an aeronautical stress engineer evaluate the specifications for the frame on my motorhome and found out with air bags installed a drop of as little as 1.5", such as is often found where driveways meet the street, would be enough to bend the frame!  Sometimes you can have old springs "re-arced" to restore near original performance.  You might also be able to have one or more leafs added to existing springs to give added ride height and load capacity.

Performance enhancements.  Who wouldn't like to pull up hills more easily or maintain highway speeds on grades?  Or get better gas mileage?   Some vehicles lend themselves well to performance upgrades, some do not.  Banks Engineering provides a proprietary "Power Pack" system that can be used on many popular chassis to improve air intake and exhaust performance, usually delivering gains in both performance and fuel economy.   However, increases in performance usually come at the expense of higher fuel consumption and improved mileage usually means reduced performance. The manufacturer's warranty on many newer engines prohibit any modifications and some modifications may seriously reduce engine life expectancy, so be cautious about making any changes to your vehicle's engine.   Improvements in intake and exhaust as well as upgrades in computer chips for modern engines can make significant power and fuel economy gains, but make sure your engine can handle the load and the modifications don't invalidate any warranty.   Calculate the fuel savings to determine the "pay back" time for the cost of performance enhancements to see if they will be economically viable.  Many improvements are so costly you may never get it back in fuel savings unless you drive a lot!

Mechanical upgrades.  Unless you have a major problem with the power train you probably won't want to attempt any significant mechanical upgrades.   If you have engine problems and would like more power you might consider installing a larger engine. Another option is to make internal improvements when rebuilding your engine.  When the Chevrolet 454 engine in my Class A Suncrest began knocking and required a rebuild, we upgraded the pistons and added an "RV" camshaft to improve performance.   I would probably not have made those upgrades if I wasn't already rebuilding the engine.  Sometimes a worn out or defective engine can be replaced with a good used or rebuilt motor.  Upgrading to a larger motor or converting from gas to diesel are often a lot of work and are usually cost prohibitive.   Other things you might consider are adding an overdrive/underdrive unit like Gear-Vendors to give you more options in gear ratio for either higher highway speeds and improved mileage or lower ratios for more pulling power.  Upgrading from drum to disc brakes adds a measure of safety and peace of mind but the task is quite daunting and expensive.    Some home hot-rod modifications like swapping carburetors and intake manifolds might be worth considering, but perform enough due diligence and research to make sure they will be worth the effort and that you will have realistic expectations for the results.   Some engine modifications will invalidate your warranty, if you have one and may cause problems passing emissions test where such tests are required.   Intake and exhaust enhancements, like Banks PowerPack kits, are popular ways to improve performance, if there is a kit available to fit your engine.

Replacing original equipment parts can be problematic on older units.  Exact replacement parts may be hard to find, perhaps even impossible.  You may have some luck and junk yards or on ebay. There are also salvage yards that specialize in RVs and companies that stock old parts so be sure to check the Internet for possible sources. You'll be surprised what you can find among "NOS" -- New Old Stock parts.  When you can't find an exact replacement, you may have to convert to the closest modern equivalent.  Taillight assemblies may have to be totally replaced if you can't find replacements for damaged lenses.  You may be forced to replace missing or broken windows with the closest size you can find.  If you have damaged exterior panels you may have to replace entire sections when you can't match the pattern and texture of the original to achieve a good cosmetic repair. In a pinch, a small area of damage might be covered by a "fake" vent panel.  Choose a standard residential flat furnace wall vent big enough to hide the damage and paint it to match your unit.

Fun stuff!  Fun additions such as awnings, outside BBQs and outside showers can add fun and livability to your RV.  Screen rooms or "add-a-room" enclosures can enhance the utility of your patio awning.   If you frequently engage in activities after dark, you might improve the exterior lighting on your rig.   I added a bright white light salvaged from an ambulance to my enclosed motorcycle trailer to make night time maintenance tasks easier.  A matching light on the side of my motorhome illuminated the entire "circle of wagons" for evening group activities.  Some campers like to fly flags on their rigs, either as sign of their patriotic nature or a club or group identifier.  Small flags can be temporarily mounted in brackets mounted to the side of your RV.   Larger flags can be flown from flagpoles.   Mine mounts in a pipe welded to the tongue of my motorcycle trailer.  Portable flagpoles are available with a base you drive one of your tires onto and can fly your favorite flag(s) high above the vehicle roof.  There are fancy LED powered star burst lights you can mount on your flagpole to help guide late arrivals to your camp site at night.   I found a 12-volt powered fan that mounts in the accessory rail on my patio awning to provide a pleasant breeze under the awning.   There are at least two kinds of devices designed to fit into the accessory rail and attach lights, shades, banners, etc. One style is a series of "S" hooks with plastic tabs that slide into the awning rail.   Another has clamps like those on suspenders to clip to the awning and grab banners and shades.

Many of today's RVs have slide outs that greatly expand and improve the living space in camp. It is possible to have a slide out added to some older RVs but it is usually not cost effective.  Count on something on the order of $2000 a foot!  That's right, not $200, but $2000 a foot.  Adding a 14' slide out to an existing RV can cost around $28,000. You'd have to REALLY love your old RV and REALLY want a slide out to justify spending that kind of money.  And unless you are already an engineer and trained RV technician, this kind of upgrade will require professional engineering and installation.  If you really wants a slide out it will probably be less expensive to sell or trade your current RV for one with a slide.   Even with professional installation, adding a slide to an older RV may be problematic since the body and frame wasn't designed to handle the additional stress that slides create and it may be difficult or even impossible to do an adequate retrofit.

Bargain updates.  To maximize the value and minimize the cost, look for bargains on materials and appliances for your updates.   Used or discontinued RV appliances and furniture are often available on ebay and other online selling sites or even from your local RV store at reduced prices.  You may be able to purchase a cheap wrecked vehicle to serve as a donor for appliances and accessories.   Keep an eye on closeouts at your local home center for things you can use in your RV.  Limit your changes to things you can do yourself to eliminate paying premium rates for professional installation services.  If you have an update you really want but don't feel qualified to tackle yourself, shop around for advice and estimates.  Feel free to send me an inquiry.   If I don't already have any useful information,  I'll research it and let you know.

The most cost effective updates are those you can do yourself with minimal materials.  A thorough detailing will take a lot of elbow grease and, to make it easier and do it right, you may have to invest in some specialized cleaners but it may deliver the best return on investment.  You'll feel better using a clean, well kept RV and it will have better sales appeal and resale value.  Along those lines, replacing damaged or discolored vent and A/C covers and clearance lights are also among good things to do.  The "Blue Book" values are based on units in fairly good condition and any damaged vents or lenses will result in a downgraded rating, reducing the curb appeal and the trade-in or potential sales value.

Update and away!