Sharing With Your Non-camping/Non-riding Friends

All of us have friends who don't share our enthusiasm for the RV, OHV, or camping lifestyle. Some may have tried it and rejected it but many have never even given it a chance and thus have no idea what they're missing. It can be both rewarding and challenging to bring them along on a weekend adventure. The key to success is planning and proper preparation. You might even be surprised how well a properly presented invitation might be accepted by even your hard-code environmentalist associates, but don't count on it.  Too many of the so-called "environmentalists" I know definitely subscribe to the "don't confuse me with the facts, my mind is made up" philosophy.  Sorry, I am, admittedly, a bit cynical on this subject, but with lot of personal experience to back it up.

RV guests. One of the most comfortable ways to introduce non-camping friends is to invite them along on an RV trip. Make sure you have enough beds in your RV or bring along an extra tent. Do whatever you can to make your guests comfortable. They will not be familiar with RV systems, so take a few minutes to show them how to turn on the water pump and how to operate the toilet. Remind them that while in camp you are on battery power and to turn off lights and appliances when they are not in use, but don't be pushy about it.  Also, if you're boondocking, remind them that the water is limited and show them how to perform routine tasks without wasting water. Find out if they have any food allergies or special preferences so you can accommodate their needs and tastes as you plan your menu. Encourage them to bring along favorite games and/or music or videos. Be sure they know how to dress for the climate and activities. Have them bring along any prescription medications they need. Involve them in pre-trip preparations, menu planning, in setting up camp when you arrive, and in routine tasks like building a fire and preparing meals. Guests should consider it a kid of working vacation and not expect to be waited on hand and foot. This isn't intended to "make them pay their way".  It gives them a better sense of involvement and will help them learn what camping is all about.

Tent camping guests. Bringing guests along on a tent camping trip may require a lot of additional preparation. If you normally use a small tent, you may need a larger one or, even better, a second tent for your guests.  The second tent is probably the better idea unless you and your guests are comfortable sleeping in the same "room". They are probably not used to sleeping on the ground. If they have any back problems they may need a cot or an extra thick pad to sleep on. As mentioned above, alert them how to dress for the climate and activities and to bring any necessary prescriptions with them. Involve them as much as possible in pre-trip preparations and in setting up and running camp when you get there. Help them choose their own tent site and set up their own tent, perhaps with your guidance.  They will probably not be aware of things like making sure they sleep with their feet downhill if the round isn't level.

OHV guests. Preparing your OHV guests will require a lot more work. Be sure they are dressed appropriately and if at all possible, are wearing proper safety gear. A helmet and goggles are essential for minimum protection. Gloves and sturdy boots are highly recommended. NEVER let them ride in flip-flops, sandals, or thin tennis shoes.  Most likely you will have to provide the safety gear for them to use but they should bring their own tough jeans and sturdy shoes or boots.  Unless you have verified they are already experienced riders make sure to take the time to go over controls and help them get started. Even with adults you should sit with them to make sure they understand and can use the controls properly. Take them for a little ride and explain how things work and what you are doing as you ride. A little extra time getting them started will prevent unnecessary damage to your equipment, your relationships, and to your friends!   Let them warm up and get used to riding on level ground near camp before taking them out on the trails. And when you do go out on the trails, choose routes that will be suitable for their emerging skills. You will want to include some fun places that are interesting so they don't get bored and get a chance to see how much fun it can be, but aren't too challenging so avoid technical sections that are clearly beyond their experience. Forcing them to ride beyond their skills is a sure way to sour them completely and could result in serious accidents that would spoil everyone's whole weekend. In most of the riding areas we frequented in southern California I could always find a section of little "roller coaster" hills that made excellent skill builders and were good places for beginners to get a feel for what they were doing.  They were fun to ride without being TOO challenging.  The trails winding over and around the hills and through the bushes were interesting enough to be fun for even experienced riders without presenting a danger to novices.

Campfire protocols are probably going to be new to your guests. Take time to explain what you are doing as you prepare and use your campfire. Demonstrate proper safety procedures for cutting wood and building the fire. Explain why camp chairs should always be removed from near the fire or at least folded and laid down flat when not in use so they don't get blown into the fire. Explain to them what can and cannot be burned in the fire. Tell them not to put non-combustible items like cans and batteries in the fire and to avoid plastic bottles that can give off toxic fumes and pressurized containers (like cooking sprays and whipped cream as well as paints, lubricants, solvents, hair spray and shaving cream) which can explode. You may even have to politely guide them to avoid blocking someone else's view of the fire (and access to the warmth).  Be sure to remind them to put away their camp chairs when they leave the fire.

Keep it clean! Teach your guests by instruction and example how to keep the campsite clean. "Pack it in, pack it out" is a long time slogan of back packers and "nature freaks", but it is also a rule of thumb for RV, OHV, and tent camping activities. Provide convenient trash containers near your food preparation and dining areas. It may take extra effort if your guests include young people who may resent having to live by your rules while on "holiday", but ultimately it is worth it. Not only will it make your life easier, your guests will be learning valuable lessons and outdoor skills and ultimately, EVERYONE will have a better time.

Find out what your guests like to do and plan some activities to cater to their preferences. You may learn some new things that will become part of your regular repertoire too. If you are going to share OHV activities with them, discuss the options ahead of time and plan rides that meet their criteria and give them opportunities to develop their emerging skills and interests while experiencing the fun of OHVing.

Share teaching moments with your guests. They may enjoy impromptu astronomy lessons as you sit by the fire or may want to learn more about the flora, fauna, geology, and history of your surroundings. If you take them places you frequently go you'll probably already know the answers to most of their questions. But if you're trying someplace fairly new to you, spend some time on the Internet and bone up before you go.

Avoid "showboating".   While it is a good idea to show them just how much fun camping or OHVing can be, don't overwhelm them with your advanced skills.  Give them time to adapt to the situation and let their interest in things evolve naturally.  Demonstrating the best and safest way to negotiate an OHV trail will be more productive and appealing than showing off your skills by riding wheelies up the hill!

Share the fun!

Plan Ahead!

Planning is one of the most important tasks of any kind of RV, OHV, or camping activity.  It has been said failure to plan is planning to fail, and that is a very good axiom.  Without proper planning you are pretty much doomed to fail, especially when venturing out into the unknown -- be it your first outdoor recreation trip, camp cooking, or just about any other kind of activity.

Start by deciding where you are going and when.  Where you are going and when will determine much of what you need to prepare.  For example, a simple afternoon at the beach on a plesant summer day will required very different planning and preparation than a weekend riding OHVs or personal water craft or a week boondocking in a remote location.

Once you have decided where and when you are going you need to compile a list of what you will need for a successful outing.  Basic preparations will include transportation, shelter, food and water and whatever equipment and supplies you will need to support your planned recreational activities.  You will also need to consider an special circumstances for you and your companions, such as prescription medications, special diets, and any physical disabilities.


Always check the weather and any local conditions before setting out on an RV or OHV adventure. Last spring three of my grown children set out on a dirt bike ride in the mountains of Utah. It was a beautiful sunny day and they were headed into an area very familiar to my eldest son, Mike. They had barely left the road on their dirt bikes when they encountered a familiar river crossing. This was one Mike had crossed many times before. However, the snow melt from the warm day had swollen it so it was much faster and much deeper than usual, although it didn't really look any different. Even so, he rode half way across without any problems. Unfortunately, the channel was deeper and faster on the second half and about half way through part two, he found the water almost up to the handlebars and the current much stronger than usual. His bike stalled out and soon he and the bike were being swept down the river in the swift, icy current. He managed to guide the bike toward a tree caught in the rocks and stopped his downstream journey. His "little" brother (14 years younger but defensive lineman of the year his senior year in high school a few years ago) saw his plight and rushed to his rescue. Between the two of them they managed to wrestle the water-logged bike ashore but it took at least a half hour of struggle against the icy, snow-melt current. The cylinder was hydraulically locked with river water so the engine would not turn over at all. They had to manually pull the bike up on its back wheel in "wheelie" position and water poured out of the exhaust pipe. They could then kick the engine over but it still wouldn't run. They ended up taking it home and spent at least two hours draining and replacing oil and gas and drying things out before they got it running again. The water-saturated engine oil looked like frothy marshmallow cream when they drained it the first few times.  A quick check with the ranger on the way in could have alterted them to the increased danger of the river crossing.

The situation could have been a LOT worse. They were lucky no one was hurt and no equipment lost. If Mike hadn't had help he would probably at least lost his bike -- and maybe his life -- in that river. You really don't want to try to hang on to 300# of motorcycle in a fast current! If his clothing had gotten caught on the bike he easily could have been dragged under or swept downstream.  Even though the outside temperature was moderate, the cold snow-melt would quickly introduce hypothermia if they were in it very long or even in wet clothing once out of the river.  Even if the water were warm, being wet could quickly create a hypothermic emergency.  You will loose heat around 25 times as fast in wet clothing, and that could be fatal if not recognized and properly addressed.

There are two lessons in this incident we should all take to heart: first and foremost, NEVER ride alone! Fortunately, they were already following this basic rule. Second, ALWAYS check local conditions before heading out on the trails. A quick check with the ranger on the way in would have alerted them that some trails were closed due to high water and other symptoms of a long winter and spring runoff and they could have avoided the whole incident. I had sent along a warning that the water crossings may be higher than usual because I had picked up on on-line weather alert for a Flood Watch due to heavy snow pack and warm temperatures in the mountains. Someday maybe they'll learn to listen to the old man! Later Mike would tell me "The funny thing is that Kristen told me as we were pulling into the parking lot that you had cautioned us about the Flood Watch. Then just minutes later I ended up falling prey to it anyway!" I'm sure Mike simply figured the river didn't look much different from other times he'd made the same crossing successfully. He crossed the first half cautiously without difficulty and the far channel looked deceptively normal -- until he found himself waist deep in it and getting an E-ticket ride downstream! Guess I might need explain what an E-ticket ride is. For the current generation, an e-ticket is nothing special, just an electronic ticket usually purchased online to an event or plane ride. My use here comes from the days, long ago, when Disneyland had various lettered tickets for their rides. The kiddie rides took A and B tickets and the E-ticket got you onto the best and most exciting adult rides.

RV and camping trips. You'll want to check weather and other conditions at your destination and along your route when planning an RV or camping trip too. Bad weather, wild fires, and even road construction can wreak havoc on an outing and turn an expected good time into a frustrating nightmare. It's well worth a few extra minutes to look up the weather on the Internet and call the local ranger station or law enforcement to be sure you won't encounter unexpected obstacles and delays. You might still choose to make your trip in inclement weather or when there is road construction, but at least you can be a little better prepared and perhaps bring an extra jacket or blanket and allow a little extra travel time.

Regular, routine preparations put you in a better position to be able to take spontaneous trips at a moment's notice. If you always clean and service your equipment at the end of each trip you'll have a good start on getting ready for the next one. Periodically invest a little time to clean and organize your tools, supplies, and equipment. Review your inventory of non-perishable supplies. If you're using an RV, keep non-perishables stocked. If you're tent camping, keep everything organized and labeled in duffle bags or plastic tubs so you can grab them and go.

Menus. You'll want to pre-plan you menus so you can be sure you have everything you need on board before you leave home. Unless you're staying in a commercial campground with a well-stocked camp store you won't be able to just pick up what you need at the last minute. Take into consideration the number of people in your group, the number of meals, and how long you're going to be out. Think about how long foods will keep and plan your meals to use up perishables early in the outing. Fresh foods should be scheduled for use in the first day or two, frozen foods will last a little longer, and canned goods should easily survive the length of any normal camping trip.

Water. If you're staying in a developed campground you'll probably have access to water but if you're boondocking, you'll have to bring enough with you to last the entire trip. If you're tent camping or have an RV with a small fresh water tank, you'll need to bring extra water. A convenient way of doing this is using portable 5-gallon water jugs available just about anywhere camping gear is sold. If you have room in the back of a truck or trailer you might bring a 55-gallon drum. There are collapsible "buckets" and roof-top bladders that can be used to transport water from a shared location to your individual camp site. These are light weight and take up little room when empty. .  I once had large military water bag.  It was made of canvas and would hold at lest a couple hundred gallons of water with handy spigots all around.  Something like that is only practical if you have way to fill it up once you get to camp and won't be moving it around.  One of my dirt biking buddies solved the problem of his teen age kids using too much water showering in camp by allowing each one a certain number of 1-gallon plastic milk jugs filled with water for their personal use. They could take as long a shower as they wanted -- but once they used up their personal allotment, they were done showering for the rest of the trip. It was surprising how adept they became at showering with as little water as possible!  All it would take was being left with shampoo in their hair or soap on their skin from running out of water once or using up a whole trip's water allotment in the first day or two for them to quickly get the idea.

Tools and equipment.  Another basic consideration for any outing is bringing along the right tools and equipment to ensure a safe and enjoyable outing.  What you need will depend on where you are going, what time of the year it is, what activities you are planning, and what kind of gear you are bringing along.   You probably don't need many extra tools for a picnic in the park (hopefully you have a basic tool kit in the trunk of your car for routine problems) but you may need more tools plus spare parts if you have other equipment, especially motorized toys such as OHVs or personal watercraft.  Think about what you might need to support what you plan to do.  Just bringing along a ball pump and needle might save the day if your volleyball or football goes flat.

While planning ahead, plan for the unplanned too. That may sound like a paradox, but having some kind of plan for emergencies will ease your mind, save you a lot of grief, and may even save your life!

Options for Powered Tent Camping

When I was growing up, the gasoline powered Coleman stove and Coleman lantern were the top of the line equipment for tent camping. Most of us cooked on the campfire and used flashlights, candles or kerosene lanterns for light. Kerosene lanterns were -- and still are -- generally less expensive and many people in my rural neighborhood used kerosene for several purposes around their ranches or farms so fuel was readily available.  Tents were mostly bulky canvas things with heavy wooden poles.  I envied the more affluent campers who brought white gas powered Coleman lanterns that produced a bright white light similar to an electric light bulb. The kerosene lanterns produced a modest orange-yellowish light that seemed (and is) dim and inferior by comparison. Some folks still use kerosene lanterns, mostly for nostalgic reasons, and they are still a viable and economical option. If you don't like the smell, run them on liquid paraffin, which is odorless, or scented lamp oil. Citronella oil helps repel insects. There is a nostalgic feeling that comes with campfire cooking, but a good camp stove gives you far greater control, is a lot easier to u use, and is ready much faster. Few of us have the patience to wait for a campfire to burn down to coals that are best for cooking, which is one reason so many marshmallows go up in flames! Camp stoves are usually less likely to be affected by fire restrictions.  Tents have come a long way.  A large family can be quite in a surprisingly light weight nylon dome tent.

Today there are many options for light and cooking, plus tent heaters and even portable hot water systems to add convenience and comfort to our outings. Portable generators, having become smaller, quieter, and less expensive, are also becoming more popular, allowing tent campers to enjoy electronic entertainment systems and small appliances previously only available to RVers. Many portable generators are fairly light weight and easy to transport. They are very quiet and quite fuel efficient. If you have room for them they make a good addition to a truck camper, small travel trailer, or tent camping gear.

Camp stoves. Where once the legendary Coleman gas stove dominated the scene there are now many options to choose from. Coleman has added propane powered stoves in both the 2-burner and 3-burner sizes in addition to their traditional gasoline models. There are advantages to each fuel. Propane doesn't spill. Gasoline is usually cheaper, especially if you have a dual-fuel stove that will run on ordinary unleaded gas in addition to "Coleman Fuel" or white gas. Such a stove would be a good candidate for emergency preparedness since you could siphon fuel from your vehicle if necessary. For tent camping, backpacking, or anytime space is limited, there are single-burner butane powered stoves, the camping equivalent of a "hot plate". They are compact and light weight but require special fuel cylinders about the size and shape of a can of shaving cream. The small size and relatively high cost of these fuel cylinders make them more expensive to operate and require more frequent changing of fuel cylinders than propane-powered units. There are some small single-burner propane stoves, sometimes called "grasshoppers" because of their silhouette. They usually run on the small, 1-lb propane cylinders. Extremely light weight backpacker stoves are also available. They usually run on small butane canisters and take up little space in your pack. They are suitable for preparing single servings. It would take a long time to cook a meal for a family of 4 using one of these. There are conveniently sized butane powered stoves that come in a plastic case about the same size as cordless electric drill case.  The are handy for fixing meals or hot drinks for one or two people.  For larger groups, Camp Chef offers a variety of larger propane-powered stoves with a delightful set of options including grills, griddles, and a BBQ box. These tend to be a little bulky and heavy if you have far to carry them so they're best used in car-camping or to supplement the RV lifestyle. They are especially useful if you have to prepare large quantities to feed a group. The size and BTU ratings allow you to use full-size stock pots that would overwhelm ordinary camp stoves or be difficult to manage on a campfire.  Another fairly recent addition are propane powered residential styled stoves like this one from Coleman, that look and function much like a gas range at home.  The are smaller, but have 2 or 3 burners on top and a fully functional (if a little small) oven.  They're quite a bit more expensive than the traditional camp stoves, but offer more familiarity and convenience.  They run around $250 new but I've seen used ones on ebay for as little as $100.

Tent heaters. For years the gasoline-powered Coleman infra-red heater was the standard for tent heaters.

I used one of these to heat an enclosed motorcycle heater for several years until I installed a propane furnace out of a wrecked camper. One downside is you have to plan ahead to get them going outdoors for about an hour before bringing them into the area to be heated. The style I had required you to hold it up-side-down until a dollar-size spot of wet fuel showed on the fabric dome. Then light it and wait several minutes for the flames to die down. Once the flames died down the heater could be moved inside the trailer or tent. The dome usually gave off a faint red glow when it was working.  You may have to search ebay or other online sites for "vintage coleman tent  heater" to find one for sale.  More modern, propane powered catalytic heaters are easier to ignite and use but while catalytic heaters do not give off smoke or toxic fumes, they do consume oxygen so they MUST be used with adequate ventilation. Even seasoned campers have been known to lose their lives when they forgot to leave a window open when using a tent heater. Military style tent stoves sometimes used gasoline or used motor oil or wood as fuel. You might still get your hands on one of these at a garage sale or army surplus outlet. They are usually rather heavy and bulky and can be dangerous to use if you are not familiar with their operation and follow instructions precisely. These types of stoves do give off smoke and toxic fumes and require a chimney to the outside, which presents its own hazards. The area where the stovepipe passes through the tent fabric to the outside must be fireproof. Large tent heaters are only practical in base camps where you don't have to carry them far from your vehicle. Some of the smaller propane-powered catalytic heaters might be light enough to carry in your back pack.

Illumination. The venerable Coleman lantern is still a standard fixture for most campers. Propane versions avoid the dangers of spilling liquid fuel and eliminate the need to periodically pump up the fuel pressure, but you can't easily refill them if you run out of fuel. However, they share the vulnerability of the gas lanterns in the use of silk mantles that are burned to ash to be used and are very delicate. If you are using a lantern that needs mantles, always bring a pack of a half dozen or so for a weekend outing. Your lantern will be useless without them. Battery and solar powered lanterns are becoming more popular as battery technology provides longer life and higher power and LED bulbs reduce power requirements. Battery powered lanterns eliminate the fire hazard often associated with gas or propane lanterns and therefore are ideal options in tents. However, gas and propane lanterns are also a source of heat that is sacrificed if you use battery lights. Some battery powered lanterns include remote controls so you can turn them on and off from the comfort of your sleeping bag, a very nice feature on cold nights. Some are rechargeable and can be recharged from an ordinary 120 volt AC power source or from the cigarette lighter style power receptacle in your vehicle. Some have built-in solar chargers so you can charge your lantern for free during the day and have it ready to use at night. Some use ordinary "D" or "C" cell or big square 6-volt batteries so you can just bring along plenty of spares and you'll be in good shape. The most efficient versions use LEDs instead of energy-hogging incandescent bulbs.

Larger propane cylinders can be refilled at propane sellers.  The smaller ones normally used in lanterns are usually just tossed and replaced but you can but an adapter that lets you refill them from a bulk propane cylinder, like the one used for your BBQ.  The easiest way to deal with running out of propane is to carry plenty of spare cylinders.  Stock up on them when you find them on sale.

Portable hot water heaters. These days you can buy portable hot water systems you can take tent camping. They are propane powered and usually provide enough hot water for 1-2 showers. They are too big and heavy to consider for back-packing, but if you are car-camping, they might be a nice addition. Bring along a shower enclosure and you can have an almost residential-style shower anywhere. These can be nice additions to any RV that is lacking shower facilities or if you have so many people you overwhelm the hot water heater as well as serving tent campers. Sunshowers are solar-heated bags that rely only on sun to heat the water and on gravity to feed the shower head to they are environmentally friendly and economical to use. Simply fill the bag with water, let it lie in the sun for a while. Putting in the hood or roof or your vehicle or laying it directly on hot blacktop are good options. When it has been heated to the desired temperature, simple hang it from a tree, canopy, or any convenient location. Here again,  use a portable shower enclosure for privacy.

Electricity in camp was once almost the exclusive prerogative of large motorhomes. Even few travel trailers had on-board generators in "the old days". Today many travel trailers come with generators as options or sometimes standard equipment and many more owners bring along portable units. Many portable units are also suitable for car-camping in a tent. Large motorhomes and trailers need 4000 watts or so to power roof air conditioners. Smaller units are less expensive, quieter, are easier to transport, and are more fuel efficient while providing adequate power for most camp use -- TVs, laptops, battery chargers, simple kitchen appliances like mixers and blenders, and even microwaves. Come night time, they can be used to run electric lights to illuminate your camp site as well as power entertainment systems. Modern portable generators are light weight and quiet, lending themselves well to tent camping. In a pinch you might also run a small electric heater in your tent.  Just be sure to keep away from the walls or anything else combustible.  Or hook up your electric blanket!

Portable refrigerators. Motorhomes and travel trailers usually have propane powered refrigerators that provide performance that nearly matches that of your residential unit. Tent camping has traditionally been limited to using ice chests to preserve perishable foods and keep our drinks cold. Today there are ice chests that use theromelectric technology that can either heat or cool the chest. Most of these units run on 12-volt DC power and can be plugged into any cigarette lighter style 12-volt receptacle. Long haul truckers often use these to good advantage on the road but they can also be used in camping and avoid frequent trips to the camp store for more ice. As with an RV refrigerator, turn it on a day or two before your planned departure to get it cooled and ready to use. Keep an eye on the charge level of your batteries so you don't run down your starting battery keeping your beer cold! And periodically check the function switch to be sure it hasn't accidentally been turned from "COOL" to "WARM".

Solar and wind power. Solar panels are slowly becoming more affordable and more portable. A small solar panel for helping maintain battery charge in storage is available at automotive supply stores for under $20. You plug it into your cigarette lighter and leave it on the dashboard to provide a trickle charge to help maintain batteries during storage. These little units aren't enough to recharge depleted batteries or meet the demands in camp. Larger units are available, with enough power to run TVs and laptops, but they are still quite expensive and fairly bulky. I've seen some innovative campers set up wind generators. I haven't tried this so I can't attest to the effectiveness, but it might be worth looking into. Commercial wind generators can be quite expensive. I've seen home-made ones that use an automotive alternator that may be able to provide enough power to maintain the charge on a couple of 12-volt deep cycle batteries -- if you get enough breeze. The trick is building and then transporting the blades and support tower. The tower must be tall enough to reach the wind, sturdy enough to withstand the wind and the vibration of the alternator, and yet be light enough and able to be dismantled for transport. Plans for such home-made wind generators can be found on the Internet. Personally I would think a home-made wind generator would be better suited for a mountain cabin or emergency retreat than for tent or even RV camping.  Solar panels can be mounted on RV roofs or set up externally outside a tent or RV making them quite convenient.  Initial cost and installation is bit pricey, but once installed or set up in camp you get your energy from the sun for free!

Tent cooling. I've yet to see a practical air conditioner for tent camping, but there are plenty of battery-powered fans that can help evacuate heat from tents and provide a comfortable breeze to improve personal comfort. I have seen people spray the window screens with mist or even hang wet towels near windows to create a kind of rudimentary evaporative cooling system. If you want to try either of these techniques, take care not to let the mist or wet towels drip on your sleeping bag, clothing, or gear, or create puddles on the floor of the tent. Use your rain fly, if your tent has one, or add a tarp over the top of your tent to shade it from direct sunlight to help keep it cooler. Or just set it up where it will be shaded most of the day.  I did see plans for a tent air conditioner  Basically it is a foam ice chest, a battery powered fan, and a LOT of ice.  I don't know how well it would work and you would need a continuous supply of ice to keep it going.  I have tried small battery powered cooling units (about the size of a softball) that use specially frozen cold packs or just evaporative cooling pads and found they didn't put out enough air to be very helpful.  They might work as personal cooling systems to cool your face but they're too small to cool very much space in a tent or RV.

Power up!

RV Systems and Appliances

RVs have many systems and appliances that mimic their residential counterparts to some extent. They are a large part of the conveniences and comforts that make RVing attractive to so many of us. However, there are some differences between RV and residential systems you should be aware of. Knowing and respecting the differences can avoid frustration, poor experiences, and premature equipment failure.

RV Water systems are usually designed to approximate the comforts of home as closely as possible,but they have their limitations. The most basic system found in old time truck campers and small travel trailers had a single, manually operated faucet to deliver water to the sink from a jug or storage tank in the cabinet underneath. Waste water from the sink drained directly out through a pipe through the side of the camper and had to be collected in a bucket and carried away to be dumped.  More advanced RVs have pressurized or electrically powered water systems and hot water heaters that literally provide hot and cold running water at multiple fixtures throughout the unit at the twist of a faucet, pretty much like at home. Waste is usually collected in holding tanks so you don't have to think very much about it -- until it is time to dump the tanks.  With judicious use of water, these systems will provide performance near that which we expect at home. You probably won't have the pressure or flow you have at home, but it is usually adequate.   However, we do need to consider that our water supplies are limited when dry camping and ration water usage to make sure we have enough to last the entire trip. Don't waste water by letting it run when you're not actually using it.  Wet your hands, then turn off the water while you scrub.  Then turn it back on to rinse.  Same with the shower.  Letting it run while you're lathering up just turns precious fresh water into sewage for no reason.  Maintaining your fresh water system mostly consists of filling it before each trip. If it begins to develop a bad taste or bad odor it may need to be flushed and sanitized. There are additives you can put into your fresh water tank to help keep it fresh, but unless you fill it with contaminated water at some point, just rinsing it out and refilling it should usually be all that is necessary. Most city water supplies are already chlorinated so when you fill your fresh water tank from home or another city water source, it already contains some protection against bacteria. If you fill it from a private well with no chlorination you might want to add a little household bleach to sanitize it, but don't add too much! It shouldn't have a bleach odor at any of the fixtures. If it does, you've used too much. Drain and refill the tank. You don't need a lot of bleach to do the job. For example, the residue left in an empty gallon bleach container after it has been completely emptied is enough to protect all the water it can hold. That amounts to just a few drops per gallon. A few tablespoons of bleach, perhaps half a cup at most, should be enough for most RV fresh water tanks.  If you can taste or smell chlorine at any faucet or in your drinking water, you've used too much bleach.  You should only smell bleach at the faucets when you are sanitizing the system, not after you've flushed it and refilled it for use.

Most modern RVs have fresh water systems powered by a 12-volt water pump. The pump includes a pressure switch that automatically turns it off when there is no demand. Sometimes the frequent cycling of the pump can be annoying. An accumulator tank can reduce how often the pump has to run. This can extend pump life as well as reduce the annoying noise.  Not all pumps are compatible with accumulator tanks so check whether your's is before adding one. The water pump will also have an on/off switch. If you don't get water from your RV faucets, make sure the water pump is turned on. If the switch is on, check the fuse. Also make sure there is water in the tank. If the pump runs continuously but you don't get any water the tank is probably empty. If you get water at some fixtures but not others, the problem may be a clogged fixture. Many faucets have an external screen and flow control device mounted in the very end of the fixture. You can usually unscrew the end of the faucet and clean these to restore flow. If that doesn't work, check for kinked, flattened, or broken pipes or tubing. RV water pumps come in a variety of sizes and styles. If you add or replace your pump, make sure you get one that is rated for your application. Some pumps are designed to supply a single fixture. Larger RVs will have multi-fixture rated pumps designed to supply water to more than one fixture at once. I've tried several different styles of RV water pumps, ranging from single-fixture self-contained pumps to large pumps with external motors and belts. I have gotten the most satisfactory performance from multi-fixture Flojet diaphragm style pumps.  Typical RV water pumps deliver about 3 gallons per minute, enough for most activities but sometimes a little anemic for showers.  Some systems include an accumulation tank to reduce cycling the pump every time you open a faucet. Some pumps are not designed for use with an accumulation tank, so check the specs on yours before arbitrarily adding one. If you are using campground hook ups, make sure the faucet is turned on and the hose connecting your RV to the faucet isn't kinked or flattened. I've seen RVers park with a tire on their own water hose and then wonder why they aren't getting any water. Speaking of water hoses, use only those designated for use with potable water or drinking water and make sure they don't create a trip hazard between you RV and the faucet.  Roll out enough hose so it will lay flat between the faucet and the RV.  Roll up excess hose and store it under the RV.  This helps keep it out of the sun to prevent heating up the cold water as well as keeping it out of the way.  Some enterprising RVers even put their hose inside a soft-side cooler pouch to further protect it from unwanted heat.

Water filters will help ensure your water is clean and palatable.   You can use an inline filter when filling your fresh water tank or when connected to a campground faucet.  Some RVs have permanently installed water filters in the plumbing where water from both the city water inlet and the water pump have to pass through it before going to the fixtures.  In line filters are fairly inexpensive and easy to use but don't last very long and might not have the same ability to filter out contaminates (such as heavy metals) as larger filters.  The in line filters are usually about 2" in diameter and a little over a foot long, with hose connections on each end.  Connect the female fitting to the faucet and the then connect your potable water hose to the male fitting on the other end.  Water filters designed for RV use are available at RV supply stores like Camping World, but many people have had good luck (and spent less money) using residential filters from a home center or hardware store.  If you have a permanent filter on your RV, be sure to remember to drain it for winterization and to check and replace the cartridges as needed.  Some luxury motorhomes have very fancy filters with features like reverse osmosis that ensure REALLY pure water, but they tend to be rather expensive and take up valuable space.  You can use residential style filters in-line by adding appropriate hose fittings.  Because they are kind of large and bulky you may need to stand them a  crate to keep them from falling over.  This will allow you to have properly filtered water without the difficulty or expense of permanently installing the filters.  Sometimes there simply isn't any room to install permanent filters.

Pressurized water systems were used on many older travel trailers, truck campers, and even some motorhomes. The water tank on these units will be made of stainless steel instead of plastic. You fill them by attaching a garden hose like you would for a city water connection. As they fill the tank, the air in the tank is compressed and the system is pressurized and water will flow from the fixtures until the pressure fails. These systems are equipped with a Schrader valve (like a tire stem) where you can add pressure and some have auxilary air pumps to restore pressure between fill ups. In a pinch, you can attach a manual tire pump or air compressor (or gas station air hose) to the Schrader valve and add pressure. Don't over do it. You only need enough pressure to make the water flow. Over-filling can damage the plumbing.

City water hookups allow you to connect a potable water rated hose to a campground faucet. If the pressure and flow are adequate, you'll have residential quality water service in your RV. Kinks in the hose and debris in the filter-screen or aging and failing plumbing in the campground can seriously reduce performance. Always use a pressure regulator to protect your hose and your RV plumbing from unexpected high pressure surges.  Why do you need a "potable water rated" hose?  Ordinary garden hoses can leech a plastic taste into your water, especially when it is exposed to the heat of lying in the sun when no water is flowing.  Potable water hoses are usually white or light blue to make it easy to distinguish them from the garden hose you might use to flush your holding tanks.

Many RVs use polybutylene (PB) pipe for fresh water lines.  This a semi-rigid gray pipe that resembles plastic electrical conduit but is smaller and somewhat more flexible.  Generally it gives pretty good service and is even said to resist freezing but occasionally there may still be problems.  The most common source of leaks are the joints.  The pipe itself may be damaged by nails, screws, abrasion, vibration, or freezing.  The original connectors used for PB pipe are no longer manufactured, but certain PEX connectors can be used to replace leaking or damaged joints.  One of the easiest to use is the Flair-it brand of compression fittings.  Another alternative is a brass fitting called Sharkbytes.  Flair-it straight connectors might be used to repair damaged sections of PB pipe.  No matter what you use, proper preparation and installation is essential to ensure a leak free repair.  Start by carefully cutting away the damaged components.  There are specialized  cutting tools for PB that are similar to those for PVC pipe.  Lacking that you may be able to cut the pipe with a hacksaw.  In close quarters one of the cable saws designed for cutting PVC pipe might do the trick.  Make your cut as square as you can to ensure a leak-free repair.  Any time you're sawing through the pipe you will likely end up with ground up plastic inside and outside the pipe.  About the only way to get it out of the inside is to flush it out with water or blow it out with compressed air.  Residue on the outside should be wiped away before installing the new fitting.  Remove the nut from the fitting and side it onto the pipe, taking care to keep the open end where the threads are toward the place the fitting will be installed.  Press the fitting onto the pipe, then slide the nut in place and tighten it.  When the repair is complete, pressurize the line and look for any leaks.  Sometimes simply tightening the fitting a little more may take care of the problem, but be sure not to over-tighten the nut which may break or otherwise damage the connection. Some folks have had success using modern PEX piping for repairs.  For best results, look for special fittings that adapt PEX to PB.

Sanitation systems are the second component that allow us to have residential style fixtures in our RVs. Plumbing is similar to that in our homes, but the waste is captured in holding tanks. Water from sinks and sometimes the bath or shower goes into a gray water tank. Toilet waste goes into a black water tank. Sometimes the shower is also fed into the black water tank. This is done for two reasons: 1) increase the liquid in the black water tank to facilitate decomposition and dumping and 2) reduce filling the gray water tank. Residential systems are typically attached to city sewer lines (or septic tanks in rural areas) and we usually don't have to worry too much about over-filling them. RV holding tanks have very limited capacities and we definitely DO have to worry about over filling. An over filled gray water tank is an annoyance and inconvenience. An over filled black water tank is a serious problem, one that is VERY unpleasant and can create serious health hazards inside and outside your RV. Minimize holding tank usage whenever you can by taking advantage of fixed facilities in campgrounds and by limiting water use while dry camping. Black water tanks need to be regularly dumped and rinsed and treated with appropriate chemicals to keep them healthy. The chemicals help break down solid wastes and control odors. Gray water tanks usually only need to be dumped and thoroughly rinsed. However, over time an accumulation of food particles from washing dishes and from soap residue may cause odors in the gray water tank. If this happens, add some of the same holding tank chemicals you use for the black water tank to the gray water tank or buy special gray water treatment chemicals. It shouldn't take nearly as much as the black water tank to be effective.

Sewer system problems can be annoying and even unhealthy. Make sure your dump valves are completely closed and the cap is securely in place. Some dump valves hang down low behind the rear wheels and are sometimes subject to being damaged going in and out of driveways or by other obstacles you may encounter on rough or unpaved roads. Be aware of where your dump valves are and take care to avoid obstacles that might damage them. If you get some seepage through the dump valves you will need to replace the seals or the entire valves. You may notice drips from the capped dump port or you might not notice the problem until you remove the cap to dump the tanks. If the valves have been leaking, removing the cap can deliver a very unpleasant surprise, especially if it is the black water thank that was leaking! Always remove the cap slowly and carefully. Be sure the port is over the dump station sump or place a bucket or plastic dishpan under the port when removing the cap. Catching any spillage will avoid a messy clean up that you'll face if the crap flows onto the ground. Occasionally you may experience a minor drip from a loose connection on one of the sewer pipes. Sometimes the connections are secured by hose clamps and simply tightening the hose clamp may solve the problem. If there are no clamps or if tightening the clamps doesn't solve the problem you may need to have the problem diagnosed and repaired by a qualified RV technician. Any repairs beyond tightening clamps can only be done when the tanks are empty, so it is necessary to find a way to dump the tanks before attempting repairs. Faulty dump valves can usually be rebuilt or replaced by any fairly competent home mechanic. Replacing the seals solves most problems unless the valve body itself is cracked or the handle is broken. Broken components will require complete replacement of the valves. To replace the seals, remove and disassemble the valves. Remove the old seals and carefully clean the grooves in the valve before installing the new seals. Warming the new seals in hot water prior to installation may make it easier to fit and form them into place. Take care when reassembling the valves to avoid pinching or otherwise damaging the new seals. More common than leaks are odor problems. Proper dumping and rinsing of holding tanks and use of appropriate chemicals will prevent most problems. If you smell sewer odors when driving with the windows open, try closing the windows. Sometimes air passing over the windows will create a partial vaccum inside the RV, drawing odors up through the toilet or the plumbing. Make sure you have a water seal in the toilet (keep the deep well of the toilet about half full). Another common source of odors from the gray water tank is a relief valve. If the odors are strongest inside a bathroom or kitchen cabinet, the relief valve is probably the source. It is supposed to be a one-way valve to allow air into the drains to avoid sucking all the water out of the P-traps. If the valve gets stuck open it can allow odors to waft back up into the unit. A stuck valve can sometimes be cleared by lightly tapping the valve body, but take care not to hit it too hard. It is made of plastic and if you crack it you'll have more than unpleasant odors to deal with. If light tapping doesn't solve the problem you may have to replace the valve. If you are familiar with PVC plumbing you should be able to cut out the old valve and plumb in a new one. If you aren't comfortable with how to do this, have it done by a qualified RV technician.

Full hookups in an RV park can be confusing to some people. New users often think they can simply hook up the sewer hoses and use the facilities as if they were at home. It doesn't work that way, especially in the black water system for the toilet. If the dump valves are left open, liquid drains away and solid wastes in either the gray or black water systems, can get left behind, creating deposits that affect performance and create foul odors. When using hookups, fill your tanks about 1/2 to 3/4 full before opening the valves and dumping them. That usually provides enough pressure and flow to flush out solid wastes as well as giving holding tank chemicals time to break them down.  It is especially important to keep the black water valve closed until the tank is about half full.  Otherwise the crap may pile up on the bottom of the tank and eventually clog the toilet!  Some people leave the gray water valve open, but it makes more sense to me to also leave it closed until to time to dump so it can flush the hose after dumping the black water tank.

You RV toilet looks a lot like the one at home, but there are significant differences. First, instead of a tank that stores 3-5 gallons of water for flushing, it flushes with water sprayed directly into the bowl from the fresh water supply. This saves a lot of water, but it sometimes means you need to take a little extra time to clean the bowl. Keep a toilet brush handy or even a stick you can use to wipe; use toilet paper on the stick to wipe down the surfaces. This simple task will help keep your toilet cleaner and odor free. An RV toilet is usually flushed by a foot pedal instead of a lever. The foot lever opens the door in the bottom of the toilet and activates the water flow. Press it all the way down to allow waste to drop into the holding tanks. You have to learn to balance conserving water with using enough so that solids don't build up under the toilet.  I suggest that, as a minimum, fill the hole in the bottom of the toilet before flushing any solids.  If you find you're getting build up below the toilet, use more water.   Holding it down part way will allow water to continue to flow after the door is closed so you can clean the bowl and leave a few inches of water in the well at the bottom to ensure a seal against holding tank odors. Cleaning the toilet can be done much as you would at home, but most RV toilets are made of plastic instead of china so avoid caustic cleaners and harsh cleansers. Soft-scrub cleansers, like BonAmi and Barkeepers Friend, are OK for stubborn stains, but don't rub too much. If you do you'll damage the surface and the stains will get worse over time. You might also try cleaning discolored toilets and toilet seats with a paste made from vinegar and soda.  The seal on the door in the bottom needs to be cleaned periodically too. Shut off the water supply (turn off the pump or shut off the faucet for the city water connection). Press the flushing pedal all the way down and carefully clean the seal. Some new toilets come with a specially designed brush. If you don't have one, an old toothbrush or grout brush can be used. I have seen people clean the groove in the seal using a bent coat hanger. If you have to resort to this method, make sure there are no sharp edges on the wire and be VERY careful not to damage the seal. Clean the edges of the sliding door as well and make sure there is no debris in the seal or on the door before you close/release the pedal. You may need a helper to turn on the water for you for rinsing before you release the pedal. If you don't have a helper, prepare ahead by bringing a bottle or pitcher of water to use for rinsing. The plastic lid on RV toilets are subject to fading and discoloration. Fellow RVers have offered a number of tips for keeping them looking good. Routine cleaning with a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser is said to be a good preventative measure. For those that are too faded to be cleaned, you might restore the finish by painting the lid with vinyl plastic paint, available in hardware stores and home centers. Be sure to remove and previous waxes or other coatings and prepare the surface according the instructions on the can.  Cracked or broken lids and seats should be replaced although small fractures might sometimes be successfully repaired using plastic-solvent type glue, a process known as chemical welding.

Most RV water heaters function very much like residential heaters but are much smaller. Homes typically have one or more 50 gallon water heaters. Most RVs have single units with a capacity of 6 to 10 gallons.  There are also "on demand" heaters that can provide continuous hot water, but they are not typical.  Ordinary tank style heaters can be replaced with tankless, on demand heaters, but they are relatively expensive --at least 2 or 3 times the cost of a standard replacement heater.  Most all RV water heaters run on propane. Some have auxiliary electric heating elements to help reduce propane consumption when connected to shore power or running the generator. Some have instant water heaters that quickly heat water on demand instead of keeping a tank of water heated. Instant water heaters may run on propane or electricity. Two advantages of instant water heaters are 1) they only consume energy when there is a demand for hot water and 2) they can deliver a continuous supply of hot water as long as there is water and energy to run them. Some RVs use hot water from the engine to pre-heat the water in the hot water heater.  Its a really useful feature, but not often found.  The primary maintenance for tank style water heaters is to make sure the burner is clean and properly adjusted. The flame should be large and blue. If it sputters or is yellow, the burner needs to be cleaned and/or adjusted. Most RV water heaters have a sacrificial rod mounted on the inside of the drain plug. This rod is designed to absorb the chemical action that would corrode the tank. It should be checked periodically and replaced when 75% of the material is gone. The biggest difference between RV and home water heaters is capacity so you'll need to ration or limit hot water usage. Do NOT waste water, especially hot water, rinsing dishes. Wipe them off with paper towels or used paper napkins or old newspaper before washing. Don't waste water by letting it just run while washing your hands, brushing your teeth, or showering. Turn it on only when needed to get wet or to rinse off soap. Don't let it run while you are shampooing or scrubbing. One trick is to save water in a plastic dishpan while running the shower to get it warm and use that for other tasks, such as rinsing dishes. Some innovative motorhome manufacturers connect the heater hoses from the engine to pre-warm the hot water tank during travel. Kind of a clever idea. You pretty much always have hot water on the road and when you arrive at camp -- and at no additional energy cost!  If you live where you get freezing weather, a water heater bypass system will simplify winterization and save 6-10 gallons of antifreeze.  Just remember to turn the valves back to normal before you try to use the water heater again next spring.  You could damage the water heater if you turn it on when it is empty.

RV stoves may or may not include an oven. They work very much like residential gas stoves only smaller.  They may have from 1 to 4 burners.   Some have electronic ignition systems but many have to be lit with a match or lighter. Light your match or lighter first and then hold it near the burner while turning on the gas. Turning on the gas first may release excess gas into the living space, resulting in an explosion when you attempt to light the stove. Some RV cook tops keep a pilot light going after you shut off the burner so you can restart the burner without needing a match or lighter. If yours has pilot lights, make sure the pilot lights are out before filling the gas or propane tank.  RV ovens are smaller than the ones at home and usually lack the timers often found on residential ovens. Keep the size in mind when purchasing your Thanksgiving turkey to make sure it will fit! Maintenance mostly consists of cleaning the stove top, burners, and oven. The oven can be cleaned with ordinary household oven cleaner. Use an all-purpose household cleaner on the stove top. If you have stubborn deposits, be careful not to damage the surface by rubbing too hard with steel wool or plastic scrubbers. "0000" steel wool works pretty well on stainless steel if used carefully but can easily damage painted or porcelain surfaces. Better to apply a strong cleaner and let it soak for a while. Make sure all the openings around the burner are kept clean. Clogged openings will significantly reduce burner function and efficiency. Not only will this increase cooking times and gas consumption, it may create unhealthy fumes. By the way, you may have heard you can clean and polish stainless steel appliances with vegetable oil.  Don't do it!  It may leave nice shine when you put it on but it soon becomes a rancid residue that will be difficult to remove.  If someone in your household has already done this, it will take a strong kitchen degreaser and a lot of elbow grease to get back down to the native shine.  I picked up some all purpose wipes at my local dollar store that also worked pretty well, but it still takes a lot of elbow grease to get that crap off.

Microwave/convection ovens are quite popular in modern RVs. In most cases they are essentially the same as residential units, but may be smaller than the one you're used to at home. They require 120-volt AC power so you need to be connected to shore power or have your generator running or have an inverter and a massive battery bank to use them. Maintenance consists mostly of keeping them clean, same as at home. They will NOT function well on low voltage, which is often a common problem in older campgrounds or if the on board generator isn't adjusted properly. They may not function properly on cheap inverters that use "modified sine wave" power. Units designed for RV use will generally last longer than residential units installed in RVs. They are usually designed to withstand vibration and power fluctuations common in RVs better than residential models. Some microwaves come with special RV installation kits that make them more suitable.  The installation kits usually include baffles to help vent heat properly and a facia that both holds the oven in place and give it a nice, finished appearance.

RV refrigerators are usually gas absorption models. They operate differently from home models that typically use electrically powered compressors to power the cooling units. You may find it curious that your RV refrigerator is actually cooled by a flame! Unlike a compressor driven system, it has no moving parts. If you really want to know how that works, look up "absorption refrigeration" on Google or Yahoo.   Some large luxury motorhomes these days use a regular residential refrigerator.  That means you have to be connected to park power or running your generator to use them, unless you they run off of an inverter backed up by a HUGE battery bank.  Your RV fridge should function pretty much like the one at home to make ice, keep frozen foods frozen, and keep perishable foods at a safe temperature. To take best advantage of your RV fridge and avoid things inside it getting too warm, limit opening the door(s) as much as possible. There are cooling fans that can be added to increase the efficiency of the outside coils and fans to help circulate air inside the unit. I like using a solar-powered outside fan since it doesn't draw any battery power. You can buy replacement roof vents for most refrigerators that include a solar powered exhaust fan.  There are also battery-powered fans (brand name Fridge-Mate) to circulate the air inside the fridge. These are available both as self-contained units powered by a couple of "D" batteries and as hard-wired units that connect to your RV's 12-volt power supply. Don't over-pack your fridge. If things are too tightly packed, the air cannot circulate and you will have hot and cold spots -- some items in the fridge may freeze while others spoil. Just like your hot water heater, the burner assembly needs to be kept clean and properly adjusted. The burner assembly is accessed through an exterior panel behind the refrigerator. Most modern RV refrigerators have electronic ignitions controlled by a computer board. Older models may have a pilot light that must be manually ignited. Always follow the manufacturer's instructions when lighting pilot lights. Failing to do so can result in fire and/or explosion. My father-in-law lost his eyebrows and his enthusiasm for camping when he tried re-lighting a pilot light too quickly.  If you find your fridge isn't keeping things cold enough check the temperature setting knob and turn it to a colder setting.  If there is a lot of frost buildup you'll need to defrost the unit to improve efficiency.  Minimize opening the door and let hot foods cool before you put them inside.  Poor performance and excessive frost build up may indicate a bad door seal.  Close a one dollar bill or similar paper in the door at various places all around.  If it falls out or comes out without any resistance, the seal may be faulty.  You should be able to feel a little resistance when you try to pull it out if the seal is closing correctly.  Replacement seals are available for most RV refrigerators.

Defrosting your RV refrigerator. Most RV refrigerators are not frost free and will need defrosting periodically, especially at the end of a trip when you store your RV again. How quickly frost develops depends on several factors, including humidity, how much high moisture food you put in it, and how often the door is opened and for how long. Avoid opening the door or keeping it open when you can. That will reduce frost in the freezer and preserve the temperature in the refrigerator cabinet for better performance too. If the frost in the freezer compartment gets to be 1/4" deep or thicker, you need to defrost it to ensure proper performance. NEVER use sharp tools to scrape away the frost. You can puncture the cooling lines. If you smell ammonia, you have a leak in the cooling system. That will probably require having the entire cooling system replaced. Don't use a hair dryer or heat gun to melt the frost in your freezer compartment. It can melt plastic and even warp metal parts. Allow it to defrost gradually. Check for frost often and won't wait until it gets much beyond 1/4" before defrosting. The task will be faster and easier and your fridge will work better. Keep an eye on the "run off" as the frost melts. It should be caught in a tray beneath the freezer compartment. If it overflows, you're going to have a mess!  If you need to accelerate melting, place a pan of warm water in the freezer compartment.

RV Furnaces operate pretty much the same as your home furnace but they are limited by availability of both propane and 12-volt electric power. Most modern RV furnaces have electronic ignition systems so all you have to do is turn on the switch and set the thermostat. Some older units have pilot lights you have to light manually. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully when lighting pilot lights. My father-in-law burned off his eye brows when trying to light the furnace in an older motorhome when he became impatient and tried re-lighting too soon instead of waiting the recommended 5 minutes between attempts. Fortunately his eyebrows and his ego were the only casualties of his experience. Others have not been so lucky and have lost their RVs and even their lives. Some older units may be "convection" furnaces that don't have 12-volt fans. They don't distribute the heat as effectively but they don't run your batteries down either. RV furnaces require little routine maintenance. Make sure all the vents are kept clear -- outside vents supply air to the burner and allow the hot byproducts of combustion to escape. Inside vents deliver warm air throughout the RV. Any blocked vent can have a negative effect on both furnace efficiency, performance, and safety. If you wake up in the middle of the night and your furnace fan is running constantly but blowing cold air, you may have run out of propane or, interestingly enough, your batteries may be low. When the batteries get low, the electronic controls don't work right and the fan will continue to run after the burner has shut off and further deplete your batteries. If this happens on a regular basis you need to upgrade your battery bank, reduce your furnace use, or add some auxiliary heat.

RV Air conditioning systems may include both dash and roof A/C units. Dash air in a motorhome (or tow vehicle) is the same as that in your car and runs off the vehicle engine. Dash air in a motorhome provides comfort for the driver and copilot while on the road but is not enough to cool the entire coach. Roof A/C units run off 120-volt electric power, from campgrounds or your on board generator. Traditionally these blow cold air directly into the coach interior through adjustable vents on the inside face plate of the unit. More recently, ducted versions have come into usage that direct the cold air more efficiently to various parts of the RV. No matter which style you have, you will want to minimize the load to conserve energy and maximize comfort. Keep doors and windows closed. Keep drapes, curtains, or shades closed. Use reflective foam insulation to cover windows and windshields to keep out heat and sunlight. A/C maintenance mainly consists of cleaning the inside filters (most units have an easily accessible foam pad behind the vents) and keeping the outside condenser fins (looks like a silver radiator) clean and straight. Bent or dirty fins can restrict airflow and decrease efficiency and performance. Some older units have motor bearings that need to be oiled but most modern systems have sealed bearings. You can run your generator and use your roof A/C while traveling to maintain comfort on the road.

An alternative to air conditioning sometimes found in RVs is an evaporative cooler.   They are lighter than 120-volt A/C units and run solely on 12-volt power -- plus water.  Be aware they don't work well in high humidity or when the outside temperature is below about 85°F.  The water reservoir in some models is subject to spilling over during sharp turns and dousing the occupants.  If that happens about all out can do is turn off the water supply and drain the reservoir so it is empty while traveling -- and forgo the cooling.

12-volt electrical systems power most of the lights and appliances inside your RV. Your furnace fan and water pump both run on 12-volt electric power. This power comes from three sources: your RV automotive alternator, 12-volt batteries, or via the converter from 120-volt power via your shore cable or your RV generator. One other option is solar panels.  Motorhomes are usually set up with two battery systems: one for starting the vehicle engine and a second bank of one or more batteries to power the coach. Both sets of batteries are charged by the vehicle alternator when the engine is running. The house batteries in a travel trailer may be charged by the vehicle alternator if the trailer connection is wired for it. If you have a trailer and/or tow vehicle without this feature, it can be added at a modest cost. Anytime you have two battery systems there should be a battery isolator to allow the vehicle alternator to charge both systems but to prevent the coach from drawing down the starting battery. I have seen motorhomes with three or more batteries: a vehicle starting battery (or battery bank), a generator starting battery, and a coach battery bank, but most have just two: vehicle and coach. A nice feature is an "Emergency Start" switch that temporarily connects both systems together. This can be used to start the generator if the coach batteries are too discharged to do it or to start the engine if the starting battery is weak. When you have multiple battery banks you should have  a battery isolator to keep the battery banks from scavenging power from each other but still allowing all batteries to be charged by the vehicle alternator.  The battery isolator allows current to flow from the alternator to all the batteries, but keeps the load for each battery bank separate so you don't run down your starting battery using 12-volt lights and appliances in your coach.  Maintenance of your 12-volt system will focus on keeping the batteries and connections in good condition and fully charged. See my previous post on Battery Maintenance for particulars. There will usually be one or more 12 volt outlets where you can plug in fans, phone chargers, and other accessories. If you don't have any, or they are not conveniently located, you can usually add them as needed.

120-volt electric systems power a variety of things in our RVs. 120-volt power comes from your shore power cord when hookups are available or from your on board generator when boondocking or on the road. Roof A/C systems are the primary system that runs directly on 120-volt power. 120-volt power also feeds the converter that converts it to 12-volt power to run lights, etc. Most converters also have a battery charger circuit that helps recharge RV batteries, but these chargers are not usually very powerful or efficient. It is often better to buy an automatic automotive style charger and set it up to charge your batteries whenever you have 120-volt power available. Some advanced converters and inverters have good multi-stage chargers that do a much better job of re-charging and maintaining batteries. A third source of limited 120-volt power is the inverter. This a device that converts 12-volt DC power into 120-volt AC power. There are small, portable inverters that plug into a 12-volt, cigarette lighter type receptacle, and if they are of an appropriate capacity and the vehicle wiring is adequate can power radios, computers, etc. Larger units, up to say, 2000 watts, are permanently mounted in some RVs and can power larger 120-volt equipment and appliances. Just remember they are drawing down your batteries, so unless you have a HUGE house battery bank, you can run your batteries down rather quickly using inverter power. I would definitely NOT recommend using inverter power to run 120-volt lights. It would be very inefficient. It is handy to run a can opener, blender, or hand mixer for a short time, when you don't want to or can't run your generator. TVs and other entertainment systems usually draw too much power for it to be practical to run them off an inverter for extended periods unless your battery bank was specifically designed to meet that kind of power demand but they can be handy for short periods of use. If your motorhome or trailer is not equipped with an on-board generator there are portable generators you can purchase, if you have room to transport them. One possible advantage to a portable unit over an on-board generator may be the ability to move the generator some distance from the coach to reduce noise and exhaust pollution inside. Just make sure you aren't intruding into someone else's space!

Some large luxury RVs have even more residential style appointments, such as dishwasher, trash compactors. ice makers,  washer/dryer setups, and refrigerators.  Usually the only special considerations are limited size and the need to keep an eye on consumption of resources (water and power).  There is a growing trend to using residential style electric refrigerators in large luxury RVs.  These units are usually equipped with a large battery bank and a high watt inverter.  You may have trouble finding a place for enough batteries to retrofit an older RV for this option.

Entertainment systems could be as simple as an AM radio or as sophisticated as a complete home entertainment system. I upgraded the AM/FM radio in my truck camper to an AM/FM Stereo/Cassette player with built in equalizer. My Class A motorhome has two TVS, with external over-the-air and satellite antennas and a combo VCR/DVD player. It also has a port to attach cable TV if it is available in a commercial campground. Many high end motorhomes and trailers have home theater systems that rival anything you'd find in an upscale residence. Your main consideration in using entertainment systems will probably power consumption.  Satellite systems can be added to just about any RV.  The easiest and least expensive systems are portable systems that you set up outside when you arrive at your camp site.  Next are roof mounted antennas that you align once the RV is stationary.  For the ultimate in convenience and access, there are roof-mounted systems that automatically track the signal and can be used while traveling.  Of course, these fancy automated systems are quite a bit more expensive than the other options.  With any satellite antenna you'll need a receiver and a subscription to a satellite service like Dish Network or Direct TV.  It may be possible to temporarily move your home receiver to your RV, but it is a lot more convenient if you have a dedicated receiver in your RV.  You can usually get special "pay-as-you-go" accounts to use with your RV so you're not paying for your subscription all the time, even when you RV is sitting unused at home.

Backup cameras are found on some RVs, usually on large luxury motorhomes.   Modern systems may even include side mounted cameras that are automatically activated when the turn signals are used.  Backup cameras are essential on large diesel pushers that have no rear window but are great asset when backing just about any RV.  There are backup obstacle detection systems that use a technology similar to radar or sonar to detect obstacles and sound a warning.  Given the limited view behind most RVs, any kind of camera or warning system would be advantageous.  Modern technology even offers wireless cameras that don't require running a wire from the camera to the monitor, making installation very easy.  If you don't have one, it is a good idea to have a person act as a ground guide when you're backing up to prevent accidents.

Camping with full hookups will affect how you use your on board systems. Having shore power eliminates the need to run your generator and lets you use your lights and appliances without fear of running down your batteries. Being connected to city water means you don't have to run your 12-volt pump and that your water supply is more or less endless. Being connected to a sewer at an RV site makes sanitation easier, but you can't just hook up the hoses and forget about it. The black water tank should be allowed to fill about half way and then dumped. It isn't a bad idea to do the same with the gray water tank but it isn't as critical. If you leave the valves open, any liquids will drain away and leave solids to dry out and stick in your holding tank. So, even with full hookups, you will need to monitor holding tank usage.

Go ahead! Rough it easy!