Keeping your RV clean and neat inside will make it more enjoyable to use and will help retain resale value. Regular cleaning of carpets and upholstery will also help reduce wear, as embedded dirt and grit work like little grinders, cutting the threads from which the covering is made. As with many situations, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Avoid activities or bringing objects or materials into your RV that will damage upholstery, flooring, or walls. Periodically clean your upholstery and carpets and apply some "ScotchGuard" to help repel stains. Appropriate use of indoor and outdoor mats can also help prevent dirt, sand, and mud from being tracked into your RV and ruining floors. Clean up spills as soon as possible to prevent them from spreading and from causing permanent stains. Avoid spills by using unbreakable containers and making sure cabinets and the refrigerator are securely latched before hitting the road. Dirt left in upholstery and carpet can cause long term damage and not just stains that are hard to get out. Grit can actually grind away at the fibers and cause premature wear. Thoroughly vacuuming your carpet and upholstery often should be on your regular "to do" list. Using blankets or slip on seat covers is one way to protect upholstery from sunlight and excess wear. Just using reflective foam insulation panels in the windows will reduce sun damage to dashboards and upholstery and help control indoor temperatures -- keeping it cooler in summer and warmer in winter.
In camp and on the road. While there is a legitimate tendency toward the "I'm on vacation" syndrome when camping, it is still a darned good idea to keep your RV clean and orderly throughout your stay and your trip. Put things back where they belong when you are finished using them -- even if you expect to use them again later in the day. Clean up any spills immediately so they don't cause permanent stains or get spread further than necessary. Keeping things clean and orderly may seem to detract from your play time, but ultimately it will maximize it. You will be able to find what you need, when you need it instead of asking yourself "Now where the heck did I put the XXXXX?" or having to search through piles of clutter. Your RV will also be ready to roll should you need to leave unexpectedly due to a local or personal emergency. Clutter tends to beget clutter, so don't let the first stray object get things started. Clutter detracts significantly from the pleasure and convenience of using your RV. Over time you will discover the best way to organize the things you use most so they're always handy and ready to use when you want them.
Eliminate clutter. One of the first tasks is to make sure everything is properly stored and that unnecessary items are removed. It is really hard to clean counter tops, cupboards, upholstery, and floors if they are covered in stuff. We are usually better at preventing clutter in our RVs than in our homes because it tends to slide around and cause problems if we don't, but some stuff can still accumulate over time.
Routine "post trip" cleaning. You should invest a little time at the end of each trip to perform routine cleaning: sweep and mop or vacuum all the floors. Vacuum upholstered surfaces (don't forget the beds!). Wipe down the tables and counter tops. Clean the sinks and tub or shower and toilet. Many RV toilets are made of plastic which has a tendency to yellow and darken over time. You can often restore them to near new color by cleaning them with a solution of vinegar and lemon juice. Clean the stove and ovens. Clean up an spilled foods in the cabinets. Thoroughly clean the refrigerator. I like to use a window cleaner with ammonia to sanitize the fridge and help prevent the growth of mold and mildew. Also leave the door open once you've turned it off, removed the contents, and cleaned it. RV stores have little gadgets to hold the fridge door open an inch or so to allow the inside to dry thoroughly and further prevent the development mold and mild while keeping the door from swinging open. Remove the ice cube trays from the freezer or at least dump them out so they can dry. I like to store mine in my freezer at home so they're always full and ready for the next trip. Take any floor mats or rugs out and shake them, vacuum them, or beat them to remove loose dirt. Wash them if they are badly soiled. Ordinary household furniture polish is usually adequate for routine cleaning of cabinets and counters. However, there are some wooden surfaces in my RV that I like to give a little extra attention to, to keep them looking their best. For more intense treatment during annual cleaning, I use a beeswax-based cleaner and wax on all natural wood surfaces. It takes more rubbing than spray waxes but adds deeper protection and luster. My motorhome has leather captain's chairs up front, and I like to use a good leather cleaner and preservative like Leather Balm on them after each trip. This is something that might be relegated to annual maintenance, but I like the idea of keeping the leather supple as well as clean. You might want to use saddle soap for a good deep annual cleaning of leather surfaces. The dashboard is a huge expanse of vinyl. You will want to treat this frequently with appropriate detailing sprays to keep it in good condition and avoid cracks. I use the same SC-1 silicone-based detail spray I use on my dirt bikes. I have been told Armor-all and similar products are water-based and can actually contribute to drying out of vinyl surfaces requiring repeated applications to maintain appearance. Take any sheets, pillow cases, towels, etc that have been used out and wash them before returning them to the RV. Clean all glass surfaces (windows and mirrors, microwave doors, TV screens). Empty all trash cans and remove all used trash bags. Remove dirty clothing. Trash and dirty clothes left behind can perpetuate very unpleasant smells. Make sure any items you got out during the trip are returned to their proper places. Replenish any non-perishable supplies you used during the trip. Review any list you made during the trip of services, repairs, or changes of supplies and equipment (additions or deletions) you may have noted and take care of them now.
Annual Cleaning. Annual cleaning may be done as spring cleaning when you're getting your rig ready for the season or when you prep your rig for storage at the end of the season. Annual cleaning, is more intense and more detailed than routine, post-trip cleaning. Vinyl or tile floors should be stripped and re-waxed. Carpets and upholstery should be shampooed. If you don't have a carpet cleaner it will probably be well worth renting a "Rug Doctor" from your local supermarket. You may want to "flip" the mattress on your bed if you can. Not all mattresses are reversible, so make sure the bottom side matches the top before flipping it over. At the very least, it should be thoroughly vacuumed and bedspreads, comforters and sleeping bags removed and cleaned. Even if they aren't heavily soiled, they are likely to have become laden with dust and residue from your body and cooking fumes. Bedspreads,comforters, and sleeping bags might need to be dry cleaned, but sheets and pillow cases and sleeping bag liners can go in the washer. Take everything out of the cabinets and drawers and clean the drawers and cabinets with a disinfectant cleaner. If you've done your post-trip maintenance well, you shouldn't encounter any spills or leaky containers but if you do, clean up the mess thoroughly. Discard any expired or damaged food containers. If you find any unpleasant odors in your fresh water supply, you will want to add some bleach to the fresh water tank (one cup of bleach for each 60 gallons of water), then pump water through all the fixtures until you can smell the bleach at the faucets. Let it stand at least 4 hours, then drain the and flush the system. For an added measure of freshness, add some baking soda (a half cup in a gallon of water) to the fresh water tank then completing filling and flush it through the system, then drain and flush the entire system with fresh water one last time before refilling with fresh water for your next trip. There are products that can be added to the fresh water tank to help preserve the freshness, but they are normally not required unless your water source is contaminated if the tanks and system have been properly flushed. The black water tank, on the other hand, should ALWAYS get a fresh charge of holding tank chemicals as soon as it has been emptied -- unless you are winterizing your RV. Know the size of your tank in order to add the correct amount of chemicals. Too little is ineffective, too much just wastes money. Adding more with the idea that it will help cover foul odors is like pouring perfume on a pig! If the odors are getting really bad, dump and flush the tanks and start over as soon as possible.
Annual cleaning is a good time to review your on-board wardrobe. Discard any worn, torn or otherwise unusable items. Consider removing items that have not been used for a while. Are you missing anything you should have? Now would be a good time to complete your wardrobe. Check for any pest damage. Rodents and insects sometimes find clothing and other textiles to be appealing for their own residences and even for food, so inspect each item to make sure it is in good condition. It is also a good idea to make sure items you have on board still fit. We all tend to gain or lose weight at different times in our lives, so the jeans we hung in the RV 5 years ago may no longer fit. Keeping a used dryer cloth in the drawers and closet and cupboard spaces where textiles are stored has been reported to help repel pests and lend a fresh scent. This is a very easy -- and free! -- tip, and worth giving a try. The scent on unused ones may be a little strong.
Walls and ceilings. Walls and ceilings usually need little maintenance beyond regular dusting. Areas near the stove or sinks may need a little extra attention periodically to remove cooking residues or soap scum. If walls or ceilings become soiled, you should be able to clean them with a good all-purpose household cleaner. Wood paneling can then be treated with furniture polish to restore shine and provide a protective coating. Do not use furniture polish on wallpaper surfaces. Some RV ceilings are vinyl covered and can be cleaned and shined as you would the dashboard. If a wall or ceiling has become damaged -- either by impact or dry rot, the affected section may have to be be replaced. Sometimes you can simply install a new panel over a damaged one, but I wouldn't recommend this if the problem is dry rot caused by water damage. Water damaged sections should be removed, the areas behind them cleaned and sanitized and repaired, and new paneling installed. Sometimes the covering on walls and ceilings may come loose from the paneling. You may be able to reattach it by injecting glue behind it using a old livestock hypodermic needle or, if you can gain access to an edge, by gently lifting the covering and applying adhesive under it. It is usually easier to get even coverage using a spray adhesive, but take care to avoid over spray or settling of airborne adhesive on other places where you don't want it. Water stains can be hard to get out of light colored materials, but it may be worth giving it a try, especially if you can get to them before they have too much time to set. A product called Instagone is said to remove even hard water stains.
Appliances. There are really only two highly visible appliances in most RVs: the range and the refrigerator. The water heater and furnace are usually hidden in cabinets, but should not be ignored. Regular maintenance is required on all appliances to keep the functioning properly as well as looking good. RV ranges sometimes have ovens and sometimes are just cook tops. In either case, routine cleaning is needed to keep them looking good and working well. If you've been doing your post-trip clean-up properly, little cleaning will be required. The oven can be cleaned with a conventional oven cleaner. The stove top can usually be cleaned with a good all-purpose household cleaner. You may need steel wool to clean the burners. Make sure to clean the openings around the edge as well as polishing the top surface. Spills sometimes clog the openings and degrade cooking performance and efficiency. The refrigerator needs cleaning both inside and in the back. Clean the inside of the fridge with an all-purpose household cleaner. I like to finish up by wiping mine down with a good glass cleaner with ammonia to help eliminate odors and prevent mold and mildew. Be sure to clean the door seals and the surfaces they mate to in order to maintain a good seal. Open the back side of the refrigerator (on the outside of your RV) and clean dust and debris that may have accumulated in the cabinet. Carefully remove the burner assembly and clean it. Take care to reinstall it exactly in its original position. Inspect the chimney above the burner to be sure there are no bird or animal nests in it. Brush off the coils. Dirt and dust accumulated there will have a negative effect on cooling efficiency. The furnace usually needs little maintenance. Check the outside vents to be sure they are clear and free from insect or animal nests. Make sure all inside vents are clear and not covered by rugs or furniture. If you have access to heat runs through cabinets or under the dinette, make sure they aren't kinked or flattened. Servicing of the hot water heater is best done during Spring Cleaning when you are de-winterizing your RV. At this time the water heater should still be empty. Remove the plug on the outside of the water heater and run a little water into it until it drains out the opening. The opening is usually a little above the bottom of the tank so you'll need to siphon out the last little bit of water using a short piece of plastic tubing. You can also use a piece of tubing attached to an air hose to blow out the last of the water and any debris that remains in the tank. You should turn any winter bypass valves to the normal position, then allow the hot water heater to be sanitized along with the rest of your water system. Inspect the pressure relief valve on the back of the water heater. If there are signs that it has been leaking, it may need to be replaced. Inspect the burner and if there is any dirt or debris present or it appears damaged, remove it and clean and/or replace it if necessary. Turn on the main propane valve and start the water heater. It should start up quickly and should have a bright blue flame. If the flame is yellow or sputters, you may need to have it repaired and adjusted by a qualified RV technician.
Vinyl surfaces, like dashboards and seats, can benefit greatly from period cleaning and conditioning. Many owners use products such as Armorall. Personally, I prefer something called SC-1. It is a detailing spray something like Armorall, but it is silcone based instead of water based. Their advertising tag line is "New Bike In A Can". I've used it for years on my dirt bikes and it does indeed make them look like new. It also works great on dashboards and other vinyl surfaces. Just avoid using on seats because it will make them very slippery until it tries thoroughly.
Carpets should be regularly vacuumed and deep cleaned at least once a year. I keep a can of spray carpet cleaner in my motorhome for spot cleanups on the road. If carpets get faded you might be able to renew the appearance by dying them. If they are TOO badly faded or worn, they should be replaced. If replacing carpet you might want to consider using a hard surface like vinyl or laminate in the galley. It is easier to clean. But you'll still want carpet in the bedroom and perhaps on the engine cover (to insulate against both heat and sound from the motor).
Upholstered surfaces, including padded headboards, should be cleaned regularly and any tears repaired as quickly as possible to avoid additional damage. Also clean any spills or stains right away to keep them from soaking in and becoming impossible to remove. Remove the cushions from sofas etc periodically and vacuum out the debris that typically collects there. Removing spilled food remnants will minimize odors, stains, and insect infestations and you might even find some spare change!
Leather seats should be cleaned with saddle soap and rubbed with a good leather conditioner like Leather Balm. This will help keep the leather clean and soft and prevent it from drying out and cracking.
Vinyl surfaces, like seats, dashboards, etc. leach chemicals into the air that put a fog on the inside of your windows. In addition to cleaning the windows, you need to recondition the vinyl. My favorite product for that is called SC-1 from Maxim.
Cabinets and paneled wall surfaces can be cleaned and polished with household furniture polish. You should include this in at least your annual cleaning as residue from cooking vapors and dust and smoke that makes its way in from outside will accumulate and dull the appearance. Regular cleaning will make this a fairly quick and easy task, It could take some time and elbow grease if it hasn't been done in a while, but it will be well worth it.
With a little regular care, your RV interior and appliances will stay looking nice and give you many years of pleasure and will help maintain the resale value.
Keep it clean!
Information on recreational vehicles (RVs) and Off Highway Vehicles (OHVs), Camping, Sailing, and Survival
Wednesday, February 23, 2011
Maintaining Your RV's Exterior Appearance
RVs represent a substantial investment for most people, so naturally you'll want to keep yours looking as good as possible for as long as possible. Not only is it more pleasing to look at and to be seen in, it will help retain resale value if you keep it in good condition. A clean, shiny RV will also be somewhat more visible, making it a bit safer. Theoretically, a smooth, shiny, well polished surface will also offer lest wind resistance and, considering the huge surface area of most RVs, that can translate to slightly better fuel economy. Last but certainly not least, having a clean RV makes it easier to detect any developing problems such as loose fasteners, cracks, or deteriorating caulk around doors, windows, and fixtures. Besides that, they're a lot more fun to look at than a dirty, faded rig.
Sunlight is very damaging to RV surfaces. It fades and oxidizes paint, decals, and rubber and plastic trim. It damages tires. It fades and rots exposed curtains and upholstery. A key way to protect your RV is to keep it out of direct sunlight as much as possible. Carports or sheds large enough to house an RV are rather expensive, but provide the necessary protection and are convenient to use. RV covers are a less expensive, albeit more labor intensive alternative and less convenient. You will see people using cheap tarps to cover their RVs, but a good quality RV cover provides much better protection. RV covers are usually breathable so they don't promote the accumulation to of moisture like ordinary tarps can do. Tarps also tend to be more abrasive and may damage paint and other RV surfaces as the wind blows if they are wrapped or directly on the RV. It will be better for the RV if the tarp is stretched above it like an awning -- but the tarp will be more difficult to secure and more susceptible to wind. Tire covers are relatively inexpensive and easy to use and, especially given how expensive it is to replace the tires on an RV, they are a good investment.
Keep your RV clean. Dirt and road film build up on our RVs while traveling and even while sitting in storage. This film tends to accelerate damage to RV surfaces and, besides that, it looks ugly. Dirt acts as microscopic sanding particles at highway speeds. The film that accumulates over time also speeds deterioration of clear coats and paint by trapping UV rays. An acquaintance, who ran a body and paint shop in southern California, offered his customers a lifetime warranty on clear coat if they would just wash their cars at least twice a month. Washing an RV is much like washing a car. It's just a LOT bigger! Use good quality soap made for washing cars or RVs. Many people use dish washing detergent. It cleans OK, but it also tends to strip away the wax, so, unless stripping the wax is your intended goal, don't use dish soap. Being by rinsing off the entire rig working from the top down before applying soap and starting to scrub. Always begin by washing the roof first so any debris or dirty/soapy water can be washed off when you wash the sides. Take care when washing the roof of an RV. Not all roofs are constructed to allow full walk-on over the entire roof area. If the roof seems spongy when you step on it, try to find areas that have more internal support as you move around to clean the surface or put down a piece of plywood to distribute your weight. The types of chemicals you use to clean the roof will depend on what kind of roof surface you have. Most roofs can be safely washed with ordinary car wash soap, but some rubber roofs require special cleaners to prevent damage and restore and condition the surface. Be careful moving around on the roof. There are usually many obstacles up there you could trip over, and it is a L_O_N_G way to the ground! Watch out for vents, antennas, searchlights, storage pods, A/C units, and roof racks. Once it is clean, using a good wax goes a long way toward keeping fiberglass and painted surfaces that way and protecting the paint and decals. Wax should include UV inhibitors that help prevent sun damage. I've found I can restore the luster and shine to many painted surfaces using a Turtle Wax product called "Colorback". I've also had pretty good luck with "Speed Wax" from Maxim. Speed Wax goes on and wipes off easily. If the paint isn't TOO badly faded you can get pretty good results with minimal effort. Severely damaged paint may required polishing with rubbing compound, a tedious and time consuming, but effective process. Many RVers favor a product called "Protectall", which is easy to use and provides a slick, shiny surface and adds UV protection. It was originally developed by a chemist for use on his personal airplane to maintain the appearance and to reduce wind drag.
Sap, road tar, and bird droppings often stain our vehicles and can be very difficult to remove without damaging the finish. Specialized automotive cleaners can make the task easier but getting crap off before it has time to bake on is the best solution. Once it has dried it may have etched the surface, making it more difficult to remove and leaving a mark once it has been removed. Cleaning off stains on a daily basis when traveling in your RV isn't something most of us want to take time to do, but it can save a lot of effort down the road and perhaps even save the finish. Be very careful using any kind of abrasive cleaners or pads since they may damage the finish. Better to soak the offending spots with warm car wash solution or bug/tar remover for several minutes and wipe it with a soft cloth. You might use something like a Mr Clean Magic Eraser on stubborn spots, but be careful not to rub too hard or you may still damage the finish. Steel wool or even razor blades can be used on glass or chrome, but even the plastic scrubbers like "Scothbrite" pads can be rough enough to damage paint, clearcoat, and fiberglass. Mineral spirits can be used to remove road tar. There are specialized products for removing bugs, like the Love Bug Eraser and Prosol Bugs N All. The Love Bug Eraser is a cleaning sponge made of non-abrasive fibers. Bugs N All is a spray on cleaner that quickly softens dried bugs for easy removal. But even if you plan to use these specialty products, you'll want to get the bugs off as soon as you can so they don't adhere tightly to the surface or perhaps stain it as they decompose, especially on light colored surfaces. Using these must might make the task easy enough and fast enough to do as needed while on a trip.
Unlike automobiles, RVs have several different types of surfaces and each requires its own specific cleaners and treatments for optimum appearance. Many RVs have unpainted fiberglass siding. Some have painted aluminum. Airstream trailers use unpainted aluminum siding. Full body automotive style paint has become more popular in recent years. Full body paint jobs require the same care you would give your car. Wash and wax small sections at a time. RV roofs may be finished similar to the sides and may be made of alumninum or fiberglass, but some have rubber roofs. Make sure you know what you have and then use the appropriate cleaners, re-conditioners, and sealants for each one. If your RV has an automotive type paint you can clean, polish, and wax is like you would your car. Unfinished aluminum or fiberglass units need special cleaners and special attention. Some high quality auto polish/wax products can be used on fiberglass, especially if it has painted graphics. I like using SC-1 detail spray on vinyl graphics.
Just like washing a car, begin by spraying the entire surface with clean water to rinse away loose debris and start soaking. Use direct scrubbing with a clean, soft cloth or sponge on stubborn stains. "Black streaks" are a common ailment with many RVs, the result of water running off the roof or around caulked seams, windows and doors. Special "Black Streak Remover" is available at RV supply stores and it will make cleaning a lot easier. When scrubbing, take care that you do not have any grit or dirt on your cloth or sponge as it will scratch the surface. If you should scratch the surface in this manner, you can probably buff it out using a rubbing compound, but that is a lot of extra work, so it is better to avoid damaging the surface in the first place. Wash, rinse, and dry a section at a time, no more than 2 or 3 feet square. Trying to do too large an area at once will likely leave you with stubborn water or soap spots that have dried on the portions you did first. Use a good window cleaner to clean the windows and windshield. If your RV is subjected to hard water from sprinklers at home or in a campground, you will likely have hard water spots that are difficult to remove. Sometimes the only way to remove them is by using rubbing compound on painted or fiberglass surfaces. Exercise caution using rubbing compound on unpainted fiberglass surfaces as it may damage the surface.You may be able to clean stubborn water spots from glass and chrome using a single-edge razor blade type scraper. Wet the surface with a strong glass cleaner, vinegar, or hard water treatment solution before and after using the scraper. Wear latex or rubber gloves to protect your hands from harsh chemical cleaners. Your windows should be crystal clear when you are done, making your RV more pleasant to look at and enhancing the view from inside your RV. Having a crystal clear windshield improves your view and is safer. Even slight imperfections or streaks can refract light and create distractions or distort the view for the driver. Be sure to clean the inside too, where vapors from cooking and even from vinyl upholstery can create a dull film that is especially difficult to see through when in direct sunlight.
Some products require multiple steps, doing cleaning, polishing, and sealing in individual processes using chemicals specific to the task. This is often believed to deliver the best results but requires a lot more time and effort than a single-step product that cleans, polishes, and seals in one step. Multi-step processes obviously require more time and effort, but using products specific to each task and focusing on achieving maximum results at each step usually yields superior results. But combination products will usually give satisfactory results if used correctly in far less time, often making it more likely that we'll do the job. You may have to use one-step products more often to maintain a satisfactory appearance but the savings in having only one step may make it will worth it.
Waxing. Waxing an RV can be an intimidating task, but an essential one. Wax helps protect the paint or fiberglass surface from damaging UV rays. The surface area is huge, quite literally, hundreds of square feet. Use the same techniques to wax an RV that you use to wax your car. Do a section at a time. In the case of an RV, that might mean selecting arbitrary portions of the surface, no more than about two or three foot square at a time. I usually use windows and other exterior features to help keep define the sections and keep track of what has and hasn't been done. Keep the vehicle out of direct sunlight which will dry the wax too quickly and make it difficult to buff out. If yours is an older unit and heavily oxidized, you will want to start with a quality polish/cleaner or even rubbing compound in extreme cases, to prepare the surface for waxing. You might save some time and effort by using a quality automotive combination polish/wax product. A lot of RVers like a product called Protect-All. It was invented by a chemist to wax his private airplane. It goes on easily and protects the finish from dirt, grime, and UV rays. I have tried Protect-All and found it lived up to its advertising claims. It works on just about all RV surfaces (fiberglass, aluminum, or painted). However, when I'm dealing with heavily oxidized surfaces, I prefer something like Colorback, a popular automotive polish that removes oxidation and provides additives that help restore faded finishes. It works really well on faded paint and I've even had pretty good luck on faded decals and oxidized fiberglass. Another neat wax product is Speed Wax from Maxim. It is a one-step wax and polishing product that is easy to use and does a fair job of restoring faded paint. There are also special products designed to restore badly oxidized fiberglass surfaces which may be worth trying if your fiberglass is dull and chalky. Apply Protect-all or a good wax after any rigorous cleaning to seal and protect the surface and preserve the shine. There are products called shine boosters that can perk up the paint job between waxings. They are fairly easy to use but won't provide the depth of shine nor long lasting protection of real wax. Liquid, one step car polish and wax products are OK, but using a good paste wax after a good cleaning is even better. It takes a little more effort but it puts down a shinier and more durable finish.
Clean your wheels and tires thoroughly. Commercial tire-cleaners and coatings will give your tires a like-new appearance. A mature mechanic friend of mine suggested using brake fluid instead of tire sprays, claiming it soaks into the rubber and helps replace lost ingredients that protect the tires against sun damage and sidewall cracking. Not sure I agree. It seemed to me that it attracted dust. I prefer using a tire protectant specifically designed for that purpose, one that is buffed to a nice shine, not those you just spray and leave. While washing the wheels and tires, inspect them for any damage or excessive wear. You may not be able to detect loose lug nuts with your fingers, but if there is any wear or a shiny ring showing on the wheels around the lug nuts, they are or probably have been loose. It wouldn't be a bad idea to check the torque of all the lug nuts with a torque wrench occasionally, just to be safe. The most accurate way to ensure they are properly tightened is to use a torque wrench. Check cold tire pressure and top off any low tires. While under-inflation can be a serious problem when driving, causing handling problems, tire wear, and dangerous heat buildup, even sitting on under-inflated tires in storage can damage the tires. Bulging tires will take a "set" which creates a bumpy ride until the tire warms up and stretches back into its original shape -- if it ever does! Over-inflation will also adversely affect handling , making the vehicle feel skittish, and cause excessive wear in the middle of the tread. If your tires are wearing on both edges, you may be running them under inflated; if the wear is greater in the middle, they're over inflated. Either way you're wearing your tire out too quickly and probably experiencing unnecessary handling problems. RV tires are way too expensive to be allowed to fail prematurely! Wear only on one edge indicates an alignment problem. You'll want to correct alignment issues to prevent further tire damage and avoid handling problems.
If you have aluminum wheels, which many luxury RVs do, check to see if they are coated or uncoated before attempting to buff them out. Coated wheels should only be washed and not buffed with aggressive wheel cleaners. If you can't tell if your wheels are coated, try cleaning an unobtrusive spot with a bit of wheel cleaner. If the rag quickly turns black, the wheels are uncoated, or at least the spot you're testing is uncoated. If the rag does not turn black, your wheels are coated and you should NOT use aggressive wheel cleaners to buff them out. It will remove the protective coating and accelerate surface oxidation. Many RVs, especially older ones have wheel covers, wheel simulators, or hub caps over steel wheels. You can greatly improve the appearance of an RV by replacing old hubcaps with modern wheel simulators that give the appearance of chrome wheels. There are two styles of wheel simulators: one that snaps in place like hub caps and one that is fastened under the lug nuts. You usually only have to remove every other lug nut to install them. The snap in versions are obviously easier to install but the bolt-on style won't come off on bouncy roads.
There is usually very little chrome or "bright metal" on modern RVs, but if you do have chrome trim it can be cleaned with metal polish. You can usually remove rust spots that sometimes pit older chrome surfaces by simply rubbing them with a copper penny. The copper is hard enough to scrape away the rust but soft enough so it doesn't scratch the chrome plating. Be careful (or avoid) attempting this technique on polished aluminum as it may scratch the softer metal. Severely rusted chrome parts might have to be removed and taken to an electroplating shop to be re-chromed to restore a like new appearance. It requires a bit of work and might be somewhat expensive, but it can significantly improve the appearance and extend the usable life of an older RV. A good metal polish should restore the shine on most bright metal components, like mirrors, grills, door handles, and bumpers.
Plastic surfaces, such as taillight lens and many newer headlights may require special treatment to keep them looking -- and working -- like new. There are plastic cleaning kits available from auto supply stores you can use to clean fogged plastic headlight lenses or you can have them done at many auto repair shops or detailers. Cost of a do-it-yourself kit is typically under $10. Having a pair of headlights restored will run you $35 or so. Keeping your lenses clean is more than just cosmetic. Discolored or damaged lenses can be a safety hazard. If you have missing, cracked, or broken lenses on taillights, turn signals, or clearance lights, they are relatively easy and inexpensive to replace. Plastic headlight lenses tend to be quite expensive and difficult to replace so you'll want to keep the originals in good condition as long as you can. Fogged and faded lenses limit and distort the light pattern, significantly reducing the effective range and coverage of headlights, so you'll want to keep them crystal clear if you can! I like to use SC-1 on the all the plastic lenses to brighten and protect them and make them more resistant to sun rot, dirt, and road film after I've cleaned them.
I test all the lights whenever I wash my RV. That way, if any are in need of repair or replacement, I'll have time to take care of it before the next trip. If you find that lights aren't working yet the bulbs are good, chances are the problem is in the ground side of the circuit. You can easily test the "hot" side using a test light or a volt meter. Make sure you have a good ground for your test equipment! RVs are quite prone to grounding problems. Unlike ordinary cars and trucks whose bodies are mostly made of metal that provides a good ground for lights, RVs bodies are often made of wood and fiberglass, both good electrical insulators, so specific ground wires are required. These ground wires may become damaged from the normal twisting and vibration of the unit or the connection to light fixtures or to the vehicle ground may become loose or corroded. Correcting a faulty ground will often cure problems with several lights. Faulty grounds can cause strange symptoms, such as both stop lights blinking when one turn signal is activated. I've even seen a bad ground cause the clearance lights and front park lights to blink along with the turn signals. In this case the turn signal ground was bad and they were grounding back through the tail light circuit, which includes the clearance lights. To correct a faulty ground connection, carefully remove the screw or bolt securing the terminal. If the terminal itself is broken or badly damaged, cut it off and replace it. Clean the surface it connects to with cleaning solvent and a wire brush and/or emery cloth until it is clean and shiny before reconnecting the terminal. If you didn't replace the terminal, be sure to clean the old one thoroughly before connecting. If the connecting screw is badly rusted or corroded, replace it with a new one, preferable stainless steel so it will resist future corrosion.
When you wash your RV is also a good time to check for leaks around doors, windows, vents, etc. If you find any leaks, take appropriate measures to fix them as soon as possible. You may have to wait a day or two for the area to dry before you can make repairs, so keep a log of what you find. Also pay attention to the seams in your RV "skin". If anything is starting to come loose you will want to correct it immediately before it gets any worse. Some loose fasteners may only need to be tightened or, if the defective areas involve pop-rivets instead of screws, you may have to drill them out and replace them. Timely replacement of a few failed fasteners may prevent far more extensive and expensive repairs that will be needed if the whole component comes off! Make sure to use an appropriate sealant between mating surfaces to ensure a watertight seam. Roof vents, which are exposed to a lot of sunlight and lots of wind, are particularly prone to loosening, so pay particular attention to them. Most RV windows are doors are installed using putty tape and are often also sealed with silicone caulk. Sometimes you can clean off the old caulk and replace it to stop a leak but often you may have to remove the door or window and scrape off and replace the putty tape for a permanent repair. An RV roof and waterproofing specialist recommended the use of DAP sealer rather than ordinary household caulk. The household caulk is easier to find and less expensive, but in my experience, the DAP sealant looks and works better. Be careful to apply only enough to seal the gaps. Excessive caulk is really ugly, especially around windows, and actually won't seal as well as using the proper amount. It is normal to use copious amounts of caulk around the screws and edges of roof vents. The caulking on RV roofs typically needs to be scraped off and redone every year or two.
Repainting an RV can be an expensive project so you want to keep yours in as good as condition as possible. I saw the invoice for just a partial paint job on one of my RVs and I'm glad it was done BEFORE I bought it. The previous owner paid over $6000 to repaint just the lower 2' and one 6" band across the front! Unless the color is something you can't live with, I would always try restoring the finish using ColorBack or a similar product before resorting to repainting. I have had some success repainting stripes myself on travel trailers and truck campers. Most of each unit was white, but they each had some sections that had been a highlight color that had long since faded beyond recognition or repair. The stripes on one camper were originally a nice walnut colored wood grain finish. When I got it, they had faded to an even light brown the color of cocoa powder with the sheen (or lack thereof) of primer. These sections are usually small enough that you can mask them off and, if you have a fairly good technique with a spray can, can repaint them to give new brilliance to the RV. Preparing the surface properly is a key factor in getting good results. Dirt, grime, road tar, and all the old wax must be completely removed. Using a primer also helps to get the paint to adhere securely. Sometimes the surface is dippled. When it is, it is easier to blend paint strokes and avoid runs. If you do get runs you may be able to gently blot them away and touch up the area with another light spray. Large, completely smooth surfaces will require a more professional touch with an air powered spray gun for good results. If you doubt whether your equipment or skill will be adequate, you should probably invest in having it done by a professional. A poor paint job may look worse than the faded original, lowering both your satisfaction with the appearance and the potential resale or trade in value. I have seen RVs that were repainted using house paint and a brush and roller and they looked like crap! If that's your only alternative, don't waste your time!
With appropriate care you can keep your RV looking good for many years. You will feel better about using it and it will retain its resale value better if it is well maintained.
Keep it clean!
Sunlight is very damaging to RV surfaces. It fades and oxidizes paint, decals, and rubber and plastic trim. It damages tires. It fades and rots exposed curtains and upholstery. A key way to protect your RV is to keep it out of direct sunlight as much as possible. Carports or sheds large enough to house an RV are rather expensive, but provide the necessary protection and are convenient to use. RV covers are a less expensive, albeit more labor intensive alternative and less convenient. You will see people using cheap tarps to cover their RVs, but a good quality RV cover provides much better protection. RV covers are usually breathable so they don't promote the accumulation to of moisture like ordinary tarps can do. Tarps also tend to be more abrasive and may damage paint and other RV surfaces as the wind blows if they are wrapped or directly on the RV. It will be better for the RV if the tarp is stretched above it like an awning -- but the tarp will be more difficult to secure and more susceptible to wind. Tire covers are relatively inexpensive and easy to use and, especially given how expensive it is to replace the tires on an RV, they are a good investment.
Keep your RV clean. Dirt and road film build up on our RVs while traveling and even while sitting in storage. This film tends to accelerate damage to RV surfaces and, besides that, it looks ugly. Dirt acts as microscopic sanding particles at highway speeds. The film that accumulates over time also speeds deterioration of clear coats and paint by trapping UV rays. An acquaintance, who ran a body and paint shop in southern California, offered his customers a lifetime warranty on clear coat if they would just wash their cars at least twice a month. Washing an RV is much like washing a car. It's just a LOT bigger! Use good quality soap made for washing cars or RVs. Many people use dish washing detergent. It cleans OK, but it also tends to strip away the wax, so, unless stripping the wax is your intended goal, don't use dish soap. Being by rinsing off the entire rig working from the top down before applying soap and starting to scrub. Always begin by washing the roof first so any debris or dirty/soapy water can be washed off when you wash the sides. Take care when washing the roof of an RV. Not all roofs are constructed to allow full walk-on over the entire roof area. If the roof seems spongy when you step on it, try to find areas that have more internal support as you move around to clean the surface or put down a piece of plywood to distribute your weight. The types of chemicals you use to clean the roof will depend on what kind of roof surface you have. Most roofs can be safely washed with ordinary car wash soap, but some rubber roofs require special cleaners to prevent damage and restore and condition the surface. Be careful moving around on the roof. There are usually many obstacles up there you could trip over, and it is a L_O_N_G way to the ground! Watch out for vents, antennas, searchlights, storage pods, A/C units, and roof racks. Once it is clean, using a good wax goes a long way toward keeping fiberglass and painted surfaces that way and protecting the paint and decals. Wax should include UV inhibitors that help prevent sun damage. I've found I can restore the luster and shine to many painted surfaces using a Turtle Wax product called "Colorback". I've also had pretty good luck with "Speed Wax" from Maxim. Speed Wax goes on and wipes off easily. If the paint isn't TOO badly faded you can get pretty good results with minimal effort. Severely damaged paint may required polishing with rubbing compound, a tedious and time consuming, but effective process. Many RVers favor a product called "Protectall", which is easy to use and provides a slick, shiny surface and adds UV protection. It was originally developed by a chemist for use on his personal airplane to maintain the appearance and to reduce wind drag.
Sap, road tar, and bird droppings often stain our vehicles and can be very difficult to remove without damaging the finish. Specialized automotive cleaners can make the task easier but getting crap off before it has time to bake on is the best solution. Once it has dried it may have etched the surface, making it more difficult to remove and leaving a mark once it has been removed. Cleaning off stains on a daily basis when traveling in your RV isn't something most of us want to take time to do, but it can save a lot of effort down the road and perhaps even save the finish. Be very careful using any kind of abrasive cleaners or pads since they may damage the finish. Better to soak the offending spots with warm car wash solution or bug/tar remover for several minutes and wipe it with a soft cloth. You might use something like a Mr Clean Magic Eraser on stubborn spots, but be careful not to rub too hard or you may still damage the finish. Steel wool or even razor blades can be used on glass or chrome, but even the plastic scrubbers like "Scothbrite" pads can be rough enough to damage paint, clearcoat, and fiberglass. Mineral spirits can be used to remove road tar. There are specialized products for removing bugs, like the Love Bug Eraser and Prosol Bugs N All. The Love Bug Eraser is a cleaning sponge made of non-abrasive fibers. Bugs N All is a spray on cleaner that quickly softens dried bugs for easy removal. But even if you plan to use these specialty products, you'll want to get the bugs off as soon as you can so they don't adhere tightly to the surface or perhaps stain it as they decompose, especially on light colored surfaces. Using these must might make the task easy enough and fast enough to do as needed while on a trip.
Unlike automobiles, RVs have several different types of surfaces and each requires its own specific cleaners and treatments for optimum appearance. Many RVs have unpainted fiberglass siding. Some have painted aluminum. Airstream trailers use unpainted aluminum siding. Full body automotive style paint has become more popular in recent years. Full body paint jobs require the same care you would give your car. Wash and wax small sections at a time. RV roofs may be finished similar to the sides and may be made of alumninum or fiberglass, but some have rubber roofs. Make sure you know what you have and then use the appropriate cleaners, re-conditioners, and sealants for each one. If your RV has an automotive type paint you can clean, polish, and wax is like you would your car. Unfinished aluminum or fiberglass units need special cleaners and special attention. Some high quality auto polish/wax products can be used on fiberglass, especially if it has painted graphics. I like using SC-1 detail spray on vinyl graphics.
Just like washing a car, begin by spraying the entire surface with clean water to rinse away loose debris and start soaking. Use direct scrubbing with a clean, soft cloth or sponge on stubborn stains. "Black streaks" are a common ailment with many RVs, the result of water running off the roof or around caulked seams, windows and doors. Special "Black Streak Remover" is available at RV supply stores and it will make cleaning a lot easier. When scrubbing, take care that you do not have any grit or dirt on your cloth or sponge as it will scratch the surface. If you should scratch the surface in this manner, you can probably buff it out using a rubbing compound, but that is a lot of extra work, so it is better to avoid damaging the surface in the first place. Wash, rinse, and dry a section at a time, no more than 2 or 3 feet square. Trying to do too large an area at once will likely leave you with stubborn water or soap spots that have dried on the portions you did first. Use a good window cleaner to clean the windows and windshield. If your RV is subjected to hard water from sprinklers at home or in a campground, you will likely have hard water spots that are difficult to remove. Sometimes the only way to remove them is by using rubbing compound on painted or fiberglass surfaces. Exercise caution using rubbing compound on unpainted fiberglass surfaces as it may damage the surface.You may be able to clean stubborn water spots from glass and chrome using a single-edge razor blade type scraper. Wet the surface with a strong glass cleaner, vinegar, or hard water treatment solution before and after using the scraper. Wear latex or rubber gloves to protect your hands from harsh chemical cleaners. Your windows should be crystal clear when you are done, making your RV more pleasant to look at and enhancing the view from inside your RV. Having a crystal clear windshield improves your view and is safer. Even slight imperfections or streaks can refract light and create distractions or distort the view for the driver. Be sure to clean the inside too, where vapors from cooking and even from vinyl upholstery can create a dull film that is especially difficult to see through when in direct sunlight.
Some products require multiple steps, doing cleaning, polishing, and sealing in individual processes using chemicals specific to the task. This is often believed to deliver the best results but requires a lot more time and effort than a single-step product that cleans, polishes, and seals in one step. Multi-step processes obviously require more time and effort, but using products specific to each task and focusing on achieving maximum results at each step usually yields superior results. But combination products will usually give satisfactory results if used correctly in far less time, often making it more likely that we'll do the job. You may have to use one-step products more often to maintain a satisfactory appearance but the savings in having only one step may make it will worth it.
Waxing. Waxing an RV can be an intimidating task, but an essential one. Wax helps protect the paint or fiberglass surface from damaging UV rays. The surface area is huge, quite literally, hundreds of square feet. Use the same techniques to wax an RV that you use to wax your car. Do a section at a time. In the case of an RV, that might mean selecting arbitrary portions of the surface, no more than about two or three foot square at a time. I usually use windows and other exterior features to help keep define the sections and keep track of what has and hasn't been done. Keep the vehicle out of direct sunlight which will dry the wax too quickly and make it difficult to buff out. If yours is an older unit and heavily oxidized, you will want to start with a quality polish/cleaner or even rubbing compound in extreme cases, to prepare the surface for waxing. You might save some time and effort by using a quality automotive combination polish/wax product. A lot of RVers like a product called Protect-All. It was invented by a chemist to wax his private airplane. It goes on easily and protects the finish from dirt, grime, and UV rays. I have tried Protect-All and found it lived up to its advertising claims. It works on just about all RV surfaces (fiberglass, aluminum, or painted). However, when I'm dealing with heavily oxidized surfaces, I prefer something like Colorback, a popular automotive polish that removes oxidation and provides additives that help restore faded finishes. It works really well on faded paint and I've even had pretty good luck on faded decals and oxidized fiberglass. Another neat wax product is Speed Wax from Maxim. It is a one-step wax and polishing product that is easy to use and does a fair job of restoring faded paint. There are also special products designed to restore badly oxidized fiberglass surfaces which may be worth trying if your fiberglass is dull and chalky. Apply Protect-all or a good wax after any rigorous cleaning to seal and protect the surface and preserve the shine. There are products called shine boosters that can perk up the paint job between waxings. They are fairly easy to use but won't provide the depth of shine nor long lasting protection of real wax. Liquid, one step car polish and wax products are OK, but using a good paste wax after a good cleaning is even better. It takes a little more effort but it puts down a shinier and more durable finish.
Clean your wheels and tires thoroughly. Commercial tire-cleaners and coatings will give your tires a like-new appearance. A mature mechanic friend of mine suggested using brake fluid instead of tire sprays, claiming it soaks into the rubber and helps replace lost ingredients that protect the tires against sun damage and sidewall cracking. Not sure I agree. It seemed to me that it attracted dust. I prefer using a tire protectant specifically designed for that purpose, one that is buffed to a nice shine, not those you just spray and leave. While washing the wheels and tires, inspect them for any damage or excessive wear. You may not be able to detect loose lug nuts with your fingers, but if there is any wear or a shiny ring showing on the wheels around the lug nuts, they are or probably have been loose. It wouldn't be a bad idea to check the torque of all the lug nuts with a torque wrench occasionally, just to be safe. The most accurate way to ensure they are properly tightened is to use a torque wrench. Check cold tire pressure and top off any low tires. While under-inflation can be a serious problem when driving, causing handling problems, tire wear, and dangerous heat buildup, even sitting on under-inflated tires in storage can damage the tires. Bulging tires will take a "set" which creates a bumpy ride until the tire warms up and stretches back into its original shape -- if it ever does! Over-inflation will also adversely affect handling , making the vehicle feel skittish, and cause excessive wear in the middle of the tread. If your tires are wearing on both edges, you may be running them under inflated; if the wear is greater in the middle, they're over inflated. Either way you're wearing your tire out too quickly and probably experiencing unnecessary handling problems. RV tires are way too expensive to be allowed to fail prematurely! Wear only on one edge indicates an alignment problem. You'll want to correct alignment issues to prevent further tire damage and avoid handling problems.
If you have aluminum wheels, which many luxury RVs do, check to see if they are coated or uncoated before attempting to buff them out. Coated wheels should only be washed and not buffed with aggressive wheel cleaners. If you can't tell if your wheels are coated, try cleaning an unobtrusive spot with a bit of wheel cleaner. If the rag quickly turns black, the wheels are uncoated, or at least the spot you're testing is uncoated. If the rag does not turn black, your wheels are coated and you should NOT use aggressive wheel cleaners to buff them out. It will remove the protective coating and accelerate surface oxidation. Many RVs, especially older ones have wheel covers, wheel simulators, or hub caps over steel wheels. You can greatly improve the appearance of an RV by replacing old hubcaps with modern wheel simulators that give the appearance of chrome wheels. There are two styles of wheel simulators: one that snaps in place like hub caps and one that is fastened under the lug nuts. You usually only have to remove every other lug nut to install them. The snap in versions are obviously easier to install but the bolt-on style won't come off on bouncy roads.
There is usually very little chrome or "bright metal" on modern RVs, but if you do have chrome trim it can be cleaned with metal polish. You can usually remove rust spots that sometimes pit older chrome surfaces by simply rubbing them with a copper penny. The copper is hard enough to scrape away the rust but soft enough so it doesn't scratch the chrome plating. Be careful (or avoid) attempting this technique on polished aluminum as it may scratch the softer metal. Severely rusted chrome parts might have to be removed and taken to an electroplating shop to be re-chromed to restore a like new appearance. It requires a bit of work and might be somewhat expensive, but it can significantly improve the appearance and extend the usable life of an older RV. A good metal polish should restore the shine on most bright metal components, like mirrors, grills, door handles, and bumpers.
Plastic surfaces, such as taillight lens and many newer headlights may require special treatment to keep them looking -- and working -- like new. There are plastic cleaning kits available from auto supply stores you can use to clean fogged plastic headlight lenses or you can have them done at many auto repair shops or detailers. Cost of a do-it-yourself kit is typically under $10. Having a pair of headlights restored will run you $35 or so. Keeping your lenses clean is more than just cosmetic. Discolored or damaged lenses can be a safety hazard. If you have missing, cracked, or broken lenses on taillights, turn signals, or clearance lights, they are relatively easy and inexpensive to replace. Plastic headlight lenses tend to be quite expensive and difficult to replace so you'll want to keep the originals in good condition as long as you can. Fogged and faded lenses limit and distort the light pattern, significantly reducing the effective range and coverage of headlights, so you'll want to keep them crystal clear if you can! I like to use SC-1 on the all the plastic lenses to brighten and protect them and make them more resistant to sun rot, dirt, and road film after I've cleaned them.
I test all the lights whenever I wash my RV. That way, if any are in need of repair or replacement, I'll have time to take care of it before the next trip. If you find that lights aren't working yet the bulbs are good, chances are the problem is in the ground side of the circuit. You can easily test the "hot" side using a test light or a volt meter. Make sure you have a good ground for your test equipment! RVs are quite prone to grounding problems. Unlike ordinary cars and trucks whose bodies are mostly made of metal that provides a good ground for lights, RVs bodies are often made of wood and fiberglass, both good electrical insulators, so specific ground wires are required. These ground wires may become damaged from the normal twisting and vibration of the unit or the connection to light fixtures or to the vehicle ground may become loose or corroded. Correcting a faulty ground will often cure problems with several lights. Faulty grounds can cause strange symptoms, such as both stop lights blinking when one turn signal is activated. I've even seen a bad ground cause the clearance lights and front park lights to blink along with the turn signals. In this case the turn signal ground was bad and they were grounding back through the tail light circuit, which includes the clearance lights. To correct a faulty ground connection, carefully remove the screw or bolt securing the terminal. If the terminal itself is broken or badly damaged, cut it off and replace it. Clean the surface it connects to with cleaning solvent and a wire brush and/or emery cloth until it is clean and shiny before reconnecting the terminal. If you didn't replace the terminal, be sure to clean the old one thoroughly before connecting. If the connecting screw is badly rusted or corroded, replace it with a new one, preferable stainless steel so it will resist future corrosion.
When you wash your RV is also a good time to check for leaks around doors, windows, vents, etc. If you find any leaks, take appropriate measures to fix them as soon as possible. You may have to wait a day or two for the area to dry before you can make repairs, so keep a log of what you find. Also pay attention to the seams in your RV "skin". If anything is starting to come loose you will want to correct it immediately before it gets any worse. Some loose fasteners may only need to be tightened or, if the defective areas involve pop-rivets instead of screws, you may have to drill them out and replace them. Timely replacement of a few failed fasteners may prevent far more extensive and expensive repairs that will be needed if the whole component comes off! Make sure to use an appropriate sealant between mating surfaces to ensure a watertight seam. Roof vents, which are exposed to a lot of sunlight and lots of wind, are particularly prone to loosening, so pay particular attention to them. Most RV windows are doors are installed using putty tape and are often also sealed with silicone caulk. Sometimes you can clean off the old caulk and replace it to stop a leak but often you may have to remove the door or window and scrape off and replace the putty tape for a permanent repair. An RV roof and waterproofing specialist recommended the use of DAP sealer rather than ordinary household caulk. The household caulk is easier to find and less expensive, but in my experience, the DAP sealant looks and works better. Be careful to apply only enough to seal the gaps. Excessive caulk is really ugly, especially around windows, and actually won't seal as well as using the proper amount. It is normal to use copious amounts of caulk around the screws and edges of roof vents. The caulking on RV roofs typically needs to be scraped off and redone every year or two.
Repainting an RV can be an expensive project so you want to keep yours in as good as condition as possible. I saw the invoice for just a partial paint job on one of my RVs and I'm glad it was done BEFORE I bought it. The previous owner paid over $6000 to repaint just the lower 2' and one 6" band across the front! Unless the color is something you can't live with, I would always try restoring the finish using ColorBack or a similar product before resorting to repainting. I have had some success repainting stripes myself on travel trailers and truck campers. Most of each unit was white, but they each had some sections that had been a highlight color that had long since faded beyond recognition or repair. The stripes on one camper were originally a nice walnut colored wood grain finish. When I got it, they had faded to an even light brown the color of cocoa powder with the sheen (or lack thereof) of primer. These sections are usually small enough that you can mask them off and, if you have a fairly good technique with a spray can, can repaint them to give new brilliance to the RV. Preparing the surface properly is a key factor in getting good results. Dirt, grime, road tar, and all the old wax must be completely removed. Using a primer also helps to get the paint to adhere securely. Sometimes the surface is dippled. When it is, it is easier to blend paint strokes and avoid runs. If you do get runs you may be able to gently blot them away and touch up the area with another light spray. Large, completely smooth surfaces will require a more professional touch with an air powered spray gun for good results. If you doubt whether your equipment or skill will be adequate, you should probably invest in having it done by a professional. A poor paint job may look worse than the faded original, lowering both your satisfaction with the appearance and the potential resale or trade in value. I have seen RVs that were repainted using house paint and a brush and roller and they looked like crap! If that's your only alternative, don't waste your time!
With appropriate care you can keep your RV looking good for many years. You will feel better about using it and it will retain its resale value better if it is well maintained.
Keep it clean!
Tuesday, February 22, 2011
Campground Etiquette
If you are staying in a developed campground, private or public, there will usually be posted rules. But what if you are boondocking or staying in and open caming areas or a primitive BLM or Forest Service campground? Does that mean there are NO RULES? NO! Each agency has its own guidelines you must follow, many of which are specific to a particular area, and there are a number of unwritten rules you should ALWAYS observe, no matter where you are camped. Let the "Golden Rule" be your basic guide. Think about how you would like your camping neighbors to behave, and behave accordingly. Perhaps more importantly, think about how they would like YOU to behave! Most campers are pretty gregarious and but some do like their privacy and I'm sure there are times when everyone needs -- or wants --a little privacy.
Here are some general rules you should always follow. Doesn't matter if you're in a fancy campground or camped out in the boonies.
Never, ever allow raw sewage to drain from your RV onto the ground. If you are in campground with hookups or using an external sewage tank, make sure your connections are secure to avoid spills. Drain black water tanks ONLY into an approved, closed sewage tank or dump station and not into an open bucket. In some places draining gray water into an open bucket is allowed, but you will still find it more convenient, pleasant, and sanitary to drain gray water into a closed container. Camping stores sell special tanks made just for this purpose. The larger ones even have wheels to make them easier to transport to the dump station. It helps contain any foul odors and reduces the chances of spillage when you transport the container to be dumped in an approved location. I have seen campers attach a garden hose to a specially designed cap on their gray water drain valves when boondocking to allow gray water to drain out away from the vehicle into the desert or forest. This practice is unsanitary and in most places is illegal but it helps keep the gray water tank from filling as quickly, which is sometimes a major advantage when boondocking in the desert for several days. If you choose to use this method, first check the local regulations, then ensure you will not be contaminating waterways or flooding roads or trails or other campsites. Try to route it downwind so breezes don't bring the odors from your waste water back into your camp or any one else's. The cap with a hose connection is also a convenient way to drain off a bucket of gray water to use to douse your campfire without having to deal with a flood from the 3" drain. If you install an inline shut off valve on the hose before you connect it to the cap, you can easily turn the flow on and off without overfilling your bucket and spilling dirty water on the ground. Spills can create unpleasant odors near your RV, so be careful. Odors are usually not a problem when the gray water is dumped on a campfire unless the water is particularly foul to begin with. Usually the heat from the fire and/or coals will burn off any odor-producing products. Never dump black water on a campfire! If the unpleasant smell of draining it and transporting it doesn't disuade you, the stench of burning it will and it may cause strong, perhaps even violent reactions among nearby campers!
Generator usage. Developed campgrounds will usually post approved hours for running your generator. Lacking posted hours, common sense will dictate what is appropriate. Generally speaking, don't run your generator before 6:00 am (7:00 am is even better) or after 10:00 pm. However, observe the habits of your fellow campers and, if everyone has retired and shut down their generators by 8:00 pm, do the same. Running a generator too early reminds me of a tongue-in-cheek rule for suburbia: "anyone who runs a power lawnmower before noon on Saturday should have to shave with it!" Running your generator during quiet hours is a really good way to alienate yourself from your fellow campers and you may really not like the actions they may take in response to you lack of consideration.
Other noise pollution. There are other sources of noise that are obnoxious to your neighbors besides your generators. Some people don't so much listen to music as absorb it and have tendency to turn the volume up until it approaches the threshold of pain. A group of teenagers rolled into an OHV camp about 3:00 am and proceeded to blast their in-car stereos at full volume with all he doors open while they unloaded and began setting up their camp. The bass notes seemed capable of doing CPR on anyone within audio range. After enduring their unwanted "concert" for as long as I could stand it, I politely approached them and asked them to tone it down. They were surprisingly cooperative and I got applause from several other nearby campers on my way back to my RV. If you MUST have your music blasting in your ears, wear headphones! Same with your TV, especially if it is outside your RV. Kids and pets can be a source of irritation to fellow campers. Many RVers travel with their kids or grandkids and many with pets. Kids and pets have a kind of natural energy that needs room for expression. There are usually playgrounds in developed campgrounds and open areas away from camp when you are boondocking where your young folks and pets can safely play without annoying your fellow campers. There is NO NEED for them to be running and screaming in your camp and absolutely no excuse for them to encroach into other camp sites or common areas or to pester fellow campers.
Other nuisances. Cooking odors and even campfire smoke can be annoying to your fellow campers. Some people are even allergic to smoke and may become ill if exposed to it. Avoid cooking foods that produce strong odors and use only good, dry, seasoned firewood on your campfire. Never burn green wood or wood that is painted or has been treated with chemicals as green wood produces excessive smoke and treated wood can produce toxic fumes. If the smoke from your campfire is steadily blowing into someone else's RV or tent or camp site, douse the fire until the wind shifts. If you smoke, either restrict your smoking to inside your vehicle or approved Smoker's Areas or try to avoid letting your smoke intrude into another camp site or vehicle. BTW, during fire restrictions, smoking is limited to inside vehicles or other structures. If your campfire fire is upwind from someone else, it might be a good idea to put it out until the wind changes direction rather than subject them to smoke and embers blowing from your fire. If common courtesy doesn't convince you, perhaps your wallet will: should the breeze pick up embers and catch something on fire, you could find yourself liable.
Arrival and Departure times. Since the noise of driving in or starting our RVs and driving off may wake other campers, try to schedule your arrival and departure times at reasonable hours, outside of "quiet time". If you MUST arrive or depart during quiet time, minimize your impact on your fellow campers. Dim your headlights or use just your parking lights while maneuvering in your site at night and try to get in your spot as quickly as possible. Don't have someone stand outside your RV and shout instructions. If you need an outside guide to enter or leave your site, use walkie-talkies or hand signals or flashlights to communicate quietly.
OHVs. It should go without saying that you should never start your OHVs in camp during quiet time. If you must get an early start, push your OHV away from camp before you start it up. Even bikers from an outlaw motorcycle club staying at a resort where I worked extended that courtesy to the other guests, pushing their bikes some distance down the road before firing up the big "hogs". Always be considerate of your fellow campers as you ride in or out of camp. Avoid excessive noise, speed, and dust. You may be camping with other OHVers, but that is still no excuse to subject them to unnecessary noise or dust or the dangers of excessive speed. Even though they are fellow riders that may be more tolerant than non-riders, it can still be quite annoying. There is plenty of time and plenty of places to go fast once you're in an open riding area or out on the trails.
Lighting. Illuminating your campsite is often essential for late evening and night time activities. However, take care to aim your lights so they illuminate YOUR activities and not your neighbor's camp or bedroom windows. Don't leave your porch lights on all night or when you are away from your vehicle for an extending time. Some folks like to leave the porch light on so they can find their keys and see the lock when they return after dark. If you need light for these functions, carry a flashlight. Leaving your lights on will deplete your batteries and annoy your neighbors. Some exterior RV lights have switches that allow them to be turned on and off from the outside so they can be used briefly when needed. If yours does not, you may be able to replace the fixture with one that does or wire in a separate external switch so you can conveniently turn your light on and off as needed. Motion sensor lights may be another easy solution, turning on when you approach and off again when activity has ceased. I have found this to be an ideal solution and enjoy the friendly "greeeting" from my RV when returning after dark. Motion sensor lights may also provide a bit of security by exposing the presence of would be thieves and discouraging them before they strike.
Encroachment. Do not encroach on your neighbor's camp site or into the roadways or common areas. That means keep your vehicles, your equipment, your kids, your pets, your noise etc in your camp site. If your vehicle is too big for the your site, check with park management about getting a larger site. Never park on the landscaped areas -- not even your bicycles! And keep your trash under control. Wind can wreak havoc with paper plates, cups, and napkins so keep them weighted down or under control and quickly retrieve them if they do escape. Never usurp another's camp site. If there are chairs, coolers, or other equipment in a site, consider it taken and find another site unless you were specifically assigned that space by park management. If you do find someone in your assigned space, report it to the campground manager or host immediately and let them deal with the offenders.
Trash. Keep all your trash in secure trash bags or containers with lids to avoid wind or critters from spreading it all over the place. Discarded food scraps are attractive to local fauna, who will quickly destroy unattended plastic bags and scatter garbage like mini tornadoes. Most developed campgrounds will have dumpsters where you can safely dispose of your trash. If you are boondocking, you'll have to follow the backpackers rule: "Pack it in, pack it out". If your stay exceeds a day or two you may need to double bag your garbage to contain the nasty odors that tend to develop in fermenting garbage. Sometimes you can incinerate some of your trash in your campfire, but consider whether it will create obnoxious or toxic fumes and odors. Paper plates and cups are usually safe to burn, even with some food residue on them. Styrofoam and other plastic containers can generate toxic fumes and perhaps should not be burned in a campfire. NEVER put pressurized containers, such as whipped cream or cooking sprays, in a campfire. Even if the contents are not flammable, the heat can cause the container to explode, sending dangerous shrapnel flying in all directions and potentially inflicting serious damage on bystanders, vehicles, and equipment.
Firearms and fireworks. Discharging firearms or setting off fireworks is prohibited in most camp grounds, including many primitive sites on BLM or Forest Service land. In some remote locations, shooting may be allowed, but even in these situations, never discharge a firearm near other vehicles, equipment, or people. Many people enjoy sport shooting, but it should only done on a safe "range". If you are in a remote area that allows shooting, identify a safe area with a suitable backstop to set up targets and carefully mark off the area so fellow campers, hikers, or riders won't wander into danger. Remember that many firearms can shoot over great distances and make sure the area behind your targets and even behind your backstop is clear. It is always a good idea to designate a "range master" to keep an eye on both the shooters to ensure safe practices and to watch for anyone who might wander into the line of fire. The use of fireworks is governed by state and local laws and by agency regulations so be sure to know the rules for your location. Even the use of legal "safe and sane" fireworks is prohibited in most Forest Service and BLM camping areas. And just because you see others flaunting the law and setting off fireworks, doesn't mean it is OK. Fireworks present a danger of igniting unwanted fires in grass, bushes, trees, tents, and vehicles. I know of someone who had the roof of their car caved in when the casing from a large ariel "mortar" landed on it and I've seen errant fireworks shoot under vehicles where they could cause serious damage. I've also seen them burn deep holes in green lawns.
Pets. Many people like to bring their furry friends along when they go camping. Some private campgrounds allow pets and provide pet areas, some do not -- so check ahead so you don't get turned away when you are ready to turn in. Even when boondocking in remote areas you will need to control your pets, for their safety as well as out of respect for your fellow campers. Not everyone shares your love of your pets -- and some people may even have serious allergies. Keep in mind your pets may feel insecure in a strange environment, which may result in whining or other annoying behaviors. It may also affect their digestive systems and create really unpleasant problems if not properly addressed. If you are in a campground with a designated pet area, only let your pets "do their business" in the pet area and not in your camp site or any other part of the park. If you are boondocking, walk your pets out away from all vehicles. If they leave a mess where it will be a hazard to fellow campers, clean it up! Pets may become attractive prey for local predators in remote forest or desert campgrounds. Coyotes, wolves, bears, and cougars are common through much of North America and any small animal, like a cat or dog, can quickly become a tasty snack for them if left unprotected. Most domesticated animals lack the experience and their instincts may have been dulled that protect themselves from wild animals.
Reserved spaces. This is a double-edged sword. If someone has already staked out a camp site they may place camp chairs in the parking area or leave an ice chest on the picnic table. Sometimes they may even have little signs with their name designating their claims. As a courtesy, we should respect such claims and look for another site -- unless someone is trespassing on your ASSIGNED camp site. If you encounter trespassers in an assigned space, report them to the ranger or camp host rather than confronting them. It will be a lot more pleasant for everyone. The other side of this situation calls for us to be thoughtful and considerate when claiming camp sites. Check with rangers or camp hosts regarding their policy before "reserving" camp sites unofficially for your friends and family. Try to get everyone to arrive about the same time so you can all stake out your territories simultaneously. Don't "claim" a site while you tour the campground to see if there is one you like better. Try to do all of your exploring before you stake any claims. A careful review of the map when you check is usually sufficient to avoid choosing a site that wouldn't be appropriate for your needs.
Proximity to other campers will dictate some of your options and behaviors. Basically, the closer you are to someone else's RV, tent, picnic table, or campfire, the more you need to limit your impact on them. If you're camping way out in the boonies with no one else around, you'll have quite a bit of freedom. But if you're in a developed campground or camping together with a group, you'll need to take care. Being a good neighbor will usually ensure you have good neighbors.
Respect shared resources. Many times you will be sharing resources with other campers. You need to be considerate of their needs. Even when boondocking you will probably be camping in a group and may share a common campfire. Pay attention to where the smoke is blowing and avoid burning anything that creates excessive smoke or foul odors. Some places, like forest service campgrounds, have common water faucets to supply multiple camp sites. Don't monopolize the faucet filling a hundred gallon fresh water tank if there are other people waiting to use it. Common restrooms and showers in campgrounds are a major convenience for tent campers and give RVers an opportunity to enjoy more room than they typically have in their RV showers or enable more than one person to shower at the same time. A pet peeve of RV park owners is RVers who take the spare toilet paper roll from the bathrooms. That is a particularly bad idea for at least two reasons. First of all, it is stealing, plain and simple. Secondly, it is extremely inconsiderate of other users. How would YOU like to find all the toilet paper is gone when you need it? Lastly, the quality of toilet paper used in regular bathrooms isn't compatible with the holding tanks on RVs. RV toilet paper is specially made to break down in holding tanks. Regular household and commercial toilet paper doesn't break down so it can clog drain hoses and valves or accumulate inside holding tanks, contributing to inaccurate or non-existent sensor readings. In a way people who snag the spare toilet paper from the park restrooms deserve the problems it may create in their holding tanks. Speaking of toilet paper, don't you find it odd that businesses that claim their employees are their most important asset put them in open cubicles yet keep the toilet paper in locked steel boxes?
Recreational facilities are among the amenities found at many campgrounds. Keep in mind these are designed for the benefit of ALL campers and not intended for your exclusive use. Volleyball courts, tennis courts, basketball hoops, horseshoe pits, pavilions, etc must be considered community property and everyone given equitable access. It is particularly annoying when someone ties up a resource for other than its intended use for extended periods of time, like parking vehicles or putting picnic tables on the basketball court or using the horseshoe pit for a doggy toilet!
Campground reservations. Reservations are required at many campgrounds. Don't expect them to "make room" for you if you show up without one. You will usually be required to make a deposit when you make a reservation. Typically you will forfeit the deposit if you cancel the reservation. If you simply fail to show up, you will be liable for the full amount of the full time you reserved. If something comes up and you have to cancel or change a reservation, notify the campground as early as possible. Typically, any cancellation will forfeit the deposit (usually the first night's fee) and anything less than 7 days notice of cancellation may be charged the full amount. If you encounter these kinds of cancellation policies, the facility is not trying to rip you off. When they take your reservation they remove your site from their inventory and often turn away other requests. It is only reasonable that you pay for the site since you have prevented them from renting it to anyone else.
Camping etiquette is more about behaving responsibly and showing consideration for your fellow campers than it is about adhering to definitive and restrictive rules. To begin with, be sure to obey all posted rules. Then observe and copy good behavior by your fellow campers and avoid copying offensive or questionable actions. Oppressive rules and regulations develop as a result of repeated abuse.
Mind your manners!
Here are some general rules you should always follow. Doesn't matter if you're in a fancy campground or camped out in the boonies.
Never, ever allow raw sewage to drain from your RV onto the ground. If you are in campground with hookups or using an external sewage tank, make sure your connections are secure to avoid spills. Drain black water tanks ONLY into an approved, closed sewage tank or dump station and not into an open bucket. In some places draining gray water into an open bucket is allowed, but you will still find it more convenient, pleasant, and sanitary to drain gray water into a closed container. Camping stores sell special tanks made just for this purpose. The larger ones even have wheels to make them easier to transport to the dump station. It helps contain any foul odors and reduces the chances of spillage when you transport the container to be dumped in an approved location. I have seen campers attach a garden hose to a specially designed cap on their gray water drain valves when boondocking to allow gray water to drain out away from the vehicle into the desert or forest. This practice is unsanitary and in most places is illegal but it helps keep the gray water tank from filling as quickly, which is sometimes a major advantage when boondocking in the desert for several days. If you choose to use this method, first check the local regulations, then ensure you will not be contaminating waterways or flooding roads or trails or other campsites. Try to route it downwind so breezes don't bring the odors from your waste water back into your camp or any one else's. The cap with a hose connection is also a convenient way to drain off a bucket of gray water to use to douse your campfire without having to deal with a flood from the 3" drain. If you install an inline shut off valve on the hose before you connect it to the cap, you can easily turn the flow on and off without overfilling your bucket and spilling dirty water on the ground. Spills can create unpleasant odors near your RV, so be careful. Odors are usually not a problem when the gray water is dumped on a campfire unless the water is particularly foul to begin with. Usually the heat from the fire and/or coals will burn off any odor-producing products. Never dump black water on a campfire! If the unpleasant smell of draining it and transporting it doesn't disuade you, the stench of burning it will and it may cause strong, perhaps even violent reactions among nearby campers!
Generator usage. Developed campgrounds will usually post approved hours for running your generator. Lacking posted hours, common sense will dictate what is appropriate. Generally speaking, don't run your generator before 6:00 am (7:00 am is even better) or after 10:00 pm. However, observe the habits of your fellow campers and, if everyone has retired and shut down their generators by 8:00 pm, do the same. Running a generator too early reminds me of a tongue-in-cheek rule for suburbia: "anyone who runs a power lawnmower before noon on Saturday should have to shave with it!" Running your generator during quiet hours is a really good way to alienate yourself from your fellow campers and you may really not like the actions they may take in response to you lack of consideration.
Other noise pollution. There are other sources of noise that are obnoxious to your neighbors besides your generators. Some people don't so much listen to music as absorb it and have tendency to turn the volume up until it approaches the threshold of pain. A group of teenagers rolled into an OHV camp about 3:00 am and proceeded to blast their in-car stereos at full volume with all he doors open while they unloaded and began setting up their camp. The bass notes seemed capable of doing CPR on anyone within audio range. After enduring their unwanted "concert" for as long as I could stand it, I politely approached them and asked them to tone it down. They were surprisingly cooperative and I got applause from several other nearby campers on my way back to my RV. If you MUST have your music blasting in your ears, wear headphones! Same with your TV, especially if it is outside your RV. Kids and pets can be a source of irritation to fellow campers. Many RVers travel with their kids or grandkids and many with pets. Kids and pets have a kind of natural energy that needs room for expression. There are usually playgrounds in developed campgrounds and open areas away from camp when you are boondocking where your young folks and pets can safely play without annoying your fellow campers. There is NO NEED for them to be running and screaming in your camp and absolutely no excuse for them to encroach into other camp sites or common areas or to pester fellow campers.
Other nuisances. Cooking odors and even campfire smoke can be annoying to your fellow campers. Some people are even allergic to smoke and may become ill if exposed to it. Avoid cooking foods that produce strong odors and use only good, dry, seasoned firewood on your campfire. Never burn green wood or wood that is painted or has been treated with chemicals as green wood produces excessive smoke and treated wood can produce toxic fumes. If the smoke from your campfire is steadily blowing into someone else's RV or tent or camp site, douse the fire until the wind shifts. If you smoke, either restrict your smoking to inside your vehicle or approved Smoker's Areas or try to avoid letting your smoke intrude into another camp site or vehicle. BTW, during fire restrictions, smoking is limited to inside vehicles or other structures. If your campfire fire is upwind from someone else, it might be a good idea to put it out until the wind changes direction rather than subject them to smoke and embers blowing from your fire. If common courtesy doesn't convince you, perhaps your wallet will: should the breeze pick up embers and catch something on fire, you could find yourself liable.
Arrival and Departure times. Since the noise of driving in or starting our RVs and driving off may wake other campers, try to schedule your arrival and departure times at reasonable hours, outside of "quiet time". If you MUST arrive or depart during quiet time, minimize your impact on your fellow campers. Dim your headlights or use just your parking lights while maneuvering in your site at night and try to get in your spot as quickly as possible. Don't have someone stand outside your RV and shout instructions. If you need an outside guide to enter or leave your site, use walkie-talkies or hand signals or flashlights to communicate quietly.
OHVs. It should go without saying that you should never start your OHVs in camp during quiet time. If you must get an early start, push your OHV away from camp before you start it up. Even bikers from an outlaw motorcycle club staying at a resort where I worked extended that courtesy to the other guests, pushing their bikes some distance down the road before firing up the big "hogs". Always be considerate of your fellow campers as you ride in or out of camp. Avoid excessive noise, speed, and dust. You may be camping with other OHVers, but that is still no excuse to subject them to unnecessary noise or dust or the dangers of excessive speed. Even though they are fellow riders that may be more tolerant than non-riders, it can still be quite annoying. There is plenty of time and plenty of places to go fast once you're in an open riding area or out on the trails.
Lighting. Illuminating your campsite is often essential for late evening and night time activities. However, take care to aim your lights so they illuminate YOUR activities and not your neighbor's camp or bedroom windows. Don't leave your porch lights on all night or when you are away from your vehicle for an extending time. Some folks like to leave the porch light on so they can find their keys and see the lock when they return after dark. If you need light for these functions, carry a flashlight. Leaving your lights on will deplete your batteries and annoy your neighbors. Some exterior RV lights have switches that allow them to be turned on and off from the outside so they can be used briefly when needed. If yours does not, you may be able to replace the fixture with one that does or wire in a separate external switch so you can conveniently turn your light on and off as needed. Motion sensor lights may be another easy solution, turning on when you approach and off again when activity has ceased. I have found this to be an ideal solution and enjoy the friendly "greeeting" from my RV when returning after dark. Motion sensor lights may also provide a bit of security by exposing the presence of would be thieves and discouraging them before they strike.
Encroachment. Do not encroach on your neighbor's camp site or into the roadways or common areas. That means keep your vehicles, your equipment, your kids, your pets, your noise etc in your camp site. If your vehicle is too big for the your site, check with park management about getting a larger site. Never park on the landscaped areas -- not even your bicycles! And keep your trash under control. Wind can wreak havoc with paper plates, cups, and napkins so keep them weighted down or under control and quickly retrieve them if they do escape. Never usurp another's camp site. If there are chairs, coolers, or other equipment in a site, consider it taken and find another site unless you were specifically assigned that space by park management. If you do find someone in your assigned space, report it to the campground manager or host immediately and let them deal with the offenders.
Trash. Keep all your trash in secure trash bags or containers with lids to avoid wind or critters from spreading it all over the place. Discarded food scraps are attractive to local fauna, who will quickly destroy unattended plastic bags and scatter garbage like mini tornadoes. Most developed campgrounds will have dumpsters where you can safely dispose of your trash. If you are boondocking, you'll have to follow the backpackers rule: "Pack it in, pack it out". If your stay exceeds a day or two you may need to double bag your garbage to contain the nasty odors that tend to develop in fermenting garbage. Sometimes you can incinerate some of your trash in your campfire, but consider whether it will create obnoxious or toxic fumes and odors. Paper plates and cups are usually safe to burn, even with some food residue on them. Styrofoam and other plastic containers can generate toxic fumes and perhaps should not be burned in a campfire. NEVER put pressurized containers, such as whipped cream or cooking sprays, in a campfire. Even if the contents are not flammable, the heat can cause the container to explode, sending dangerous shrapnel flying in all directions and potentially inflicting serious damage on bystanders, vehicles, and equipment.
Firearms and fireworks. Discharging firearms or setting off fireworks is prohibited in most camp grounds, including many primitive sites on BLM or Forest Service land. In some remote locations, shooting may be allowed, but even in these situations, never discharge a firearm near other vehicles, equipment, or people. Many people enjoy sport shooting, but it should only done on a safe "range". If you are in a remote area that allows shooting, identify a safe area with a suitable backstop to set up targets and carefully mark off the area so fellow campers, hikers, or riders won't wander into danger. Remember that many firearms can shoot over great distances and make sure the area behind your targets and even behind your backstop is clear. It is always a good idea to designate a "range master" to keep an eye on both the shooters to ensure safe practices and to watch for anyone who might wander into the line of fire. The use of fireworks is governed by state and local laws and by agency regulations so be sure to know the rules for your location. Even the use of legal "safe and sane" fireworks is prohibited in most Forest Service and BLM camping areas. And just because you see others flaunting the law and setting off fireworks, doesn't mean it is OK. Fireworks present a danger of igniting unwanted fires in grass, bushes, trees, tents, and vehicles. I know of someone who had the roof of their car caved in when the casing from a large ariel "mortar" landed on it and I've seen errant fireworks shoot under vehicles where they could cause serious damage. I've also seen them burn deep holes in green lawns.
Pets. Many people like to bring their furry friends along when they go camping. Some private campgrounds allow pets and provide pet areas, some do not -- so check ahead so you don't get turned away when you are ready to turn in. Even when boondocking in remote areas you will need to control your pets, for their safety as well as out of respect for your fellow campers. Not everyone shares your love of your pets -- and some people may even have serious allergies. Keep in mind your pets may feel insecure in a strange environment, which may result in whining or other annoying behaviors. It may also affect their digestive systems and create really unpleasant problems if not properly addressed. If you are in a campground with a designated pet area, only let your pets "do their business" in the pet area and not in your camp site or any other part of the park. If you are boondocking, walk your pets out away from all vehicles. If they leave a mess where it will be a hazard to fellow campers, clean it up! Pets may become attractive prey for local predators in remote forest or desert campgrounds. Coyotes, wolves, bears, and cougars are common through much of North America and any small animal, like a cat or dog, can quickly become a tasty snack for them if left unprotected. Most domesticated animals lack the experience and their instincts may have been dulled that protect themselves from wild animals.
Reserved spaces. This is a double-edged sword. If someone has already staked out a camp site they may place camp chairs in the parking area or leave an ice chest on the picnic table. Sometimes they may even have little signs with their name designating their claims. As a courtesy, we should respect such claims and look for another site -- unless someone is trespassing on your ASSIGNED camp site. If you encounter trespassers in an assigned space, report them to the ranger or camp host rather than confronting them. It will be a lot more pleasant for everyone. The other side of this situation calls for us to be thoughtful and considerate when claiming camp sites. Check with rangers or camp hosts regarding their policy before "reserving" camp sites unofficially for your friends and family. Try to get everyone to arrive about the same time so you can all stake out your territories simultaneously. Don't "claim" a site while you tour the campground to see if there is one you like better. Try to do all of your exploring before you stake any claims. A careful review of the map when you check is usually sufficient to avoid choosing a site that wouldn't be appropriate for your needs.
Proximity to other campers will dictate some of your options and behaviors. Basically, the closer you are to someone else's RV, tent, picnic table, or campfire, the more you need to limit your impact on them. If you're camping way out in the boonies with no one else around, you'll have quite a bit of freedom. But if you're in a developed campground or camping together with a group, you'll need to take care. Being a good neighbor will usually ensure you have good neighbors.
Respect shared resources. Many times you will be sharing resources with other campers. You need to be considerate of their needs. Even when boondocking you will probably be camping in a group and may share a common campfire. Pay attention to where the smoke is blowing and avoid burning anything that creates excessive smoke or foul odors. Some places, like forest service campgrounds, have common water faucets to supply multiple camp sites. Don't monopolize the faucet filling a hundred gallon fresh water tank if there are other people waiting to use it. Common restrooms and showers in campgrounds are a major convenience for tent campers and give RVers an opportunity to enjoy more room than they typically have in their RV showers or enable more than one person to shower at the same time. A pet peeve of RV park owners is RVers who take the spare toilet paper roll from the bathrooms. That is a particularly bad idea for at least two reasons. First of all, it is stealing, plain and simple. Secondly, it is extremely inconsiderate of other users. How would YOU like to find all the toilet paper is gone when you need it? Lastly, the quality of toilet paper used in regular bathrooms isn't compatible with the holding tanks on RVs. RV toilet paper is specially made to break down in holding tanks. Regular household and commercial toilet paper doesn't break down so it can clog drain hoses and valves or accumulate inside holding tanks, contributing to inaccurate or non-existent sensor readings. In a way people who snag the spare toilet paper from the park restrooms deserve the problems it may create in their holding tanks. Speaking of toilet paper, don't you find it odd that businesses that claim their employees are their most important asset put them in open cubicles yet keep the toilet paper in locked steel boxes?
Recreational facilities are among the amenities found at many campgrounds. Keep in mind these are designed for the benefit of ALL campers and not intended for your exclusive use. Volleyball courts, tennis courts, basketball hoops, horseshoe pits, pavilions, etc must be considered community property and everyone given equitable access. It is particularly annoying when someone ties up a resource for other than its intended use for extended periods of time, like parking vehicles or putting picnic tables on the basketball court or using the horseshoe pit for a doggy toilet!
Campground reservations. Reservations are required at many campgrounds. Don't expect them to "make room" for you if you show up without one. You will usually be required to make a deposit when you make a reservation. Typically you will forfeit the deposit if you cancel the reservation. If you simply fail to show up, you will be liable for the full amount of the full time you reserved. If something comes up and you have to cancel or change a reservation, notify the campground as early as possible. Typically, any cancellation will forfeit the deposit (usually the first night's fee) and anything less than 7 days notice of cancellation may be charged the full amount. If you encounter these kinds of cancellation policies, the facility is not trying to rip you off. When they take your reservation they remove your site from their inventory and often turn away other requests. It is only reasonable that you pay for the site since you have prevented them from renting it to anyone else.
Camping etiquette is more about behaving responsibly and showing consideration for your fellow campers than it is about adhering to definitive and restrictive rules. To begin with, be sure to obey all posted rules. Then observe and copy good behavior by your fellow campers and avoid copying offensive or questionable actions. Oppressive rules and regulations develop as a result of repeated abuse.
Mind your manners!
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Negotiating Hills With Your RV
Hey, lets face it, most RVs, whether motorized or towable, are HEAVY. That means it is going to take extra effort to get them up hills and they'll often come down faster than you want them to. Like the "Little Engine That Could", you need a positive attitude -- and a few good driving skills and tricks.
One of the key factors is to not overload your vehicle. Be aware of the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of your motorhome and the Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (CVWR) any vehicle towing a trailer. Exceeding the weight capacity puts extra strain on the drive train components and especially brakes and tires, affecting safety and handling as well as longevity. Weigh your vehicle(s) at a truck scale, and, if you find you're overweight, reduce the load before you permanently damage your equipment or have a serious accident! Since water is pretty heavy, you can often reduce load by keeping your holding tanks empty and by reducing how much fresh water you are carrying. If you are headed out to boondock in a remote area, you want your fresh water tank full when you get there, but if you're headed to a campground with hookups, or even one where you can refill your water tank easily nearby, don't fill your fresh water tank more than about 1/4 full on the road -- just enough to meet your needs while en route. Unfortunately, many motorhomes come from the factory with little extra capacity for cargo. Often they are close to being over weight even before you include water and passengers so it is really easy to exceed the weight ratings. If you find yourself in that situation about all you can besides limiting what you carry around, is to buy a motorhome with greater weight ratings. Although you might be able to upgrade springs and shocks so solve some ride issues, it really isn't practical to increase the weight ratings, which take into account many factors which are basic elements of the vehicle design. While tires and springs are often the most affected by load, there are many other factors to consider, including other parts including suspension, the frame, engine, transmission, and differential which could limit the maximum weight.
There are serious consequences to attempting a hill that is too steep or too long for your vehicle. Pay attention to your vehicle. If the engine temperature starts to climb or if you feel the transmission start to slip or it begins to blow smoke, pull over before you permanently damage your engine or transmission. Repairs can be VERY costly! A lot more costly than having your RV towed to safety and repaired before major damage occurs. Of course you will have checked all the critical components at the beginning of your trip so you have confidence in your equipment when you start climbing steep hills. Remember, check all belts and hoses before each trip. Check tire pressure every day before driving. Check oil, transmission fluid, and coolant levels frequently. These routine maintenance procedures can save your trip, your vehicle, and your wallet!
If you are within acceptable weight limits, here are some tried-and-true tricks to handling the hills. First, try to "get a run at it" when you approach a hill. The more momentum (within safe limits) you have as you start up the hill, the better. This is a trick used for years by commercial truckers. If you use this trick, pay attention to the local speed limits and your speed. Its a lot better (and less expensive) to downshift going up a hill than to pay a speeding ticket! Getting a run at hills probably won't improve gas mileage because you'll use more gas accelerating as you approach the hill anyway, but it can get you over them easier without slowing traffic behind you as badly, delaying your travel, or lugging the engine and putting unnecessary strain on the drive train.
Next, don't "lug" the engine. This puts extra stress on internal components, reduces fuel economy, and slows you down. If your vehicle as a Tow/Haul option be sure to engage it for climbing and descending hills. If your vehicle has an Overdrive feature that can be disabled, do so for climbing and descending hills. If the engine is lugging, downshift to a lower gear. When downshifting, keep an eye (or an ear) on the RPMs so you don't over-rev the engine, which can be catastrophic! Also carefully watch the engine temperature gauge and pull over if your vehicle begins to overheat. Turn off the automotive air conditioner as you approach a steep hill or a long grade. You will often see signs alongside the highway to remind you to do this as you approach a long or steep grade. Don't ignore them! They're not just a ploy to make you hot and want to buy cold drinks at the next convenience store. Turning off your A/C reduces the load on the engine and eliminates the extra heat from the A/C condensor in front of the radiator. An old time trick to increase cooling capacity when climbing hills is to turn on the heater. Yeah, it won't be comfortable, but the heater core is actually little radiator that will help a little bit in reducing coolant temperature. The heat that comes into the passenger compartment is heat removed from the engine's cooling system. When listening to your engine RPMs, be aware that many RVs have a temperature controlled fan clutch on the radiator. The fan spins freely until the engine gets hot to conserve fuel, then the clutch engages to drive the fan to cool the radiator when the engine gets hot. When the fan kicks in it is usually noisy and may sound like the transmission has downshifted. If your vehicle doesn't have a tachometer to display RPM, one can usually be added and they're not terribly expensive. Could be a good investment toward avoiding catastrophic and expensive repairs. Another useful gauge on some vehicles is transmission temperature gauge. If your vehicle is equipped with one, pay attention to it and pull over before it gets to the high end of the scale. If you don't have a transmission temperature gauge, you may be able to add an aftermarket gauge. It can be a little pricey, but a lot less expensive than repairing or replacing a burned up transmission. When components inside the transmission begin slipping the friction generates a lot heat, which puts even more stress on components and reduces the proper functioning of transmission fluid. It becomes a vicious cycle in which the worse it gets, the faster it gets worse.
Don't hold up traffic! Try to maintain your speed on hills. Sometimes you won't be able to maintain speed climbing a hill with a big motorhome or towing a trailer. When this happens, do your best to keep out of the way of other vehicles. Keep as far to the right as practical. Use the "truck lane". And take advantage of turn-outs to allow traffic to pass you. Impeding traffic more than discourteous: it is dangerous and illegal. In California, for example, you are required by law to pull over if there are more than 4 vehicles behind you. Unfortunately, many drivers either don't know or don't care about this requirement. Because it is difficult to get going again on a steep hill, many drivers of large vehicle use that as an excuse not to pull over. However, not only is it inconsiderate of other drivers, it often creates a safety hazard. It is SO much better to incur the inconvenience of restarting on a hill than to cause an accident. Many times you will be able to find a place to pull over where it won't be all that difficult getting going again.
If you climb a hill, eventually you'll be coming back down, perhaps on the other side or on your return trip. A heavy RV responds very well to gravity and you may quickly find yourself traveling faster than is legal, comfortable for the driver, or safe if you don't manage your downhill speed. DO NOT RIDE THE BRAKES! Using the brakes constantly will cause rapid wear and will also to cause them to overheat and once they've overheated they become useless. Even before reaching that stage, excessive use will cause glazing that reduces the friction between the brakes and the drums or rotors, seriously reducing stopping power. Keep in mind, brakes work by converting the kinetic energy of the vehicle into heat due to the friction between the brake pads or shoes and the rotors or drums. When the capacity of the shoes or pads to absorb heat is reached, they stop working. Heat builds up in the rotors or drums, causing them to warp. Once again you may be able to downshift and let the engine help hold you back. This works well on gasoline engines and on diesels with engine or "Jake" brakes, but is not very effective on other diesels. Just watch the RPMs so you don't over-rev the engine when you drop down a gear or two. Also be aware of local noise restrictions that prohibit the use of "engine brakes".
If downshifting doesn't hold your speed within acceptable parameters, use the brakes to slow to about 10 MPH below your target speed, then let off the brakes until the vehicle reaches about 10 MPH above the desired speed. Then apply the brakes again and repeat this procedure until you are off the hill. The time between brake applications helps allow the brakes to cool and maintain effectiveness. This is much better than riding the brakes to try in vain to maintain a constant desired speed.
Of course, it is advisable to avoid unusually steep or long grades whenever you can. So check your route before you leave home and try to select destinations and routes that won't put unusual stress on your vehicle or you! Along that line, you will want to make sure you don't get into a situation where your vehicle is too big for the available road and you have no place to turn around! So PLAN AHEAD! Sometimes the only way to reach a chosen destination includes climbing a difficult hill. If you've had problems with your vehicle overheating, try to plan your trip so you encounter the hill during during a cooler part of the day or during the night.
Auxiliary cooling systems might be used to keep radiators cool on heavy rigs on steep grades. The one I've found very effective and fairly inexpensive is to install a way to spray water on the front of the radiator. You can sometimes make one using and old windshield washer system from a junk yard. The water evaporates and helps cool the radiator. I've seen water injection used on carburated engines. These water injection systems were originally intended to help clean carbon inside the heads and cylinders but drivers discovered they could also improve mileage and reduce engine temperature slightly. Make sure the factory fan (and fan clutch, if so equipped) and belts and water pump are in good condition. Many newer vehicles have electrically operated fans that are controlled by a thermostat. Make sure your wiring and connectors are all in good condition.
When we had engine problems with the pickup truck pulling our enclosed motorcycle trailer up a particularly nasty hill, we stopped and unloaded the motorcycles and rode them to the top of the hill to reduce the weight in the trailer. Since each bike weights somewhere around 300 lbs, it made a big difference to offload 3 or 4 bikes. We were in a very remote area where riding dirt bikes on the paved road wasn't likely to be a problem even though it was technically illegal. You wouldn't want to try this on a freeway or a major highway. Another time we switched the trailer from the truck to the motorhome until we reached the top of the hill.
I think I can! I think I can!
One of the key factors is to not overload your vehicle. Be aware of the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) of your motorhome and the Combined Vehicle Weight Rating (CVWR) any vehicle towing a trailer. Exceeding the weight capacity puts extra strain on the drive train components and especially brakes and tires, affecting safety and handling as well as longevity. Weigh your vehicle(s) at a truck scale, and, if you find you're overweight, reduce the load before you permanently damage your equipment or have a serious accident! Since water is pretty heavy, you can often reduce load by keeping your holding tanks empty and by reducing how much fresh water you are carrying. If you are headed out to boondock in a remote area, you want your fresh water tank full when you get there, but if you're headed to a campground with hookups, or even one where you can refill your water tank easily nearby, don't fill your fresh water tank more than about 1/4 full on the road -- just enough to meet your needs while en route. Unfortunately, many motorhomes come from the factory with little extra capacity for cargo. Often they are close to being over weight even before you include water and passengers so it is really easy to exceed the weight ratings. If you find yourself in that situation about all you can besides limiting what you carry around, is to buy a motorhome with greater weight ratings. Although you might be able to upgrade springs and shocks so solve some ride issues, it really isn't practical to increase the weight ratings, which take into account many factors which are basic elements of the vehicle design. While tires and springs are often the most affected by load, there are many other factors to consider, including other parts including suspension, the frame, engine, transmission, and differential which could limit the maximum weight.
There are serious consequences to attempting a hill that is too steep or too long for your vehicle. Pay attention to your vehicle. If the engine temperature starts to climb or if you feel the transmission start to slip or it begins to blow smoke, pull over before you permanently damage your engine or transmission. Repairs can be VERY costly! A lot more costly than having your RV towed to safety and repaired before major damage occurs. Of course you will have checked all the critical components at the beginning of your trip so you have confidence in your equipment when you start climbing steep hills. Remember, check all belts and hoses before each trip. Check tire pressure every day before driving. Check oil, transmission fluid, and coolant levels frequently. These routine maintenance procedures can save your trip, your vehicle, and your wallet!
If you are within acceptable weight limits, here are some tried-and-true tricks to handling the hills. First, try to "get a run at it" when you approach a hill. The more momentum (within safe limits) you have as you start up the hill, the better. This is a trick used for years by commercial truckers. If you use this trick, pay attention to the local speed limits and your speed. Its a lot better (and less expensive) to downshift going up a hill than to pay a speeding ticket! Getting a run at hills probably won't improve gas mileage because you'll use more gas accelerating as you approach the hill anyway, but it can get you over them easier without slowing traffic behind you as badly, delaying your travel, or lugging the engine and putting unnecessary strain on the drive train.
Next, don't "lug" the engine. This puts extra stress on internal components, reduces fuel economy, and slows you down. If your vehicle as a Tow/Haul option be sure to engage it for climbing and descending hills. If your vehicle has an Overdrive feature that can be disabled, do so for climbing and descending hills. If the engine is lugging, downshift to a lower gear. When downshifting, keep an eye (or an ear) on the RPMs so you don't over-rev the engine, which can be catastrophic! Also carefully watch the engine temperature gauge and pull over if your vehicle begins to overheat. Turn off the automotive air conditioner as you approach a steep hill or a long grade. You will often see signs alongside the highway to remind you to do this as you approach a long or steep grade. Don't ignore them! They're not just a ploy to make you hot and want to buy cold drinks at the next convenience store. Turning off your A/C reduces the load on the engine and eliminates the extra heat from the A/C condensor in front of the radiator. An old time trick to increase cooling capacity when climbing hills is to turn on the heater. Yeah, it won't be comfortable, but the heater core is actually little radiator that will help a little bit in reducing coolant temperature. The heat that comes into the passenger compartment is heat removed from the engine's cooling system. When listening to your engine RPMs, be aware that many RVs have a temperature controlled fan clutch on the radiator. The fan spins freely until the engine gets hot to conserve fuel, then the clutch engages to drive the fan to cool the radiator when the engine gets hot. When the fan kicks in it is usually noisy and may sound like the transmission has downshifted. If your vehicle doesn't have a tachometer to display RPM, one can usually be added and they're not terribly expensive. Could be a good investment toward avoiding catastrophic and expensive repairs. Another useful gauge on some vehicles is transmission temperature gauge. If your vehicle is equipped with one, pay attention to it and pull over before it gets to the high end of the scale. If you don't have a transmission temperature gauge, you may be able to add an aftermarket gauge. It can be a little pricey, but a lot less expensive than repairing or replacing a burned up transmission. When components inside the transmission begin slipping the friction generates a lot heat, which puts even more stress on components and reduces the proper functioning of transmission fluid. It becomes a vicious cycle in which the worse it gets, the faster it gets worse.
Don't hold up traffic! Try to maintain your speed on hills. Sometimes you won't be able to maintain speed climbing a hill with a big motorhome or towing a trailer. When this happens, do your best to keep out of the way of other vehicles. Keep as far to the right as practical. Use the "truck lane". And take advantage of turn-outs to allow traffic to pass you. Impeding traffic more than discourteous: it is dangerous and illegal. In California, for example, you are required by law to pull over if there are more than 4 vehicles behind you. Unfortunately, many drivers either don't know or don't care about this requirement. Because it is difficult to get going again on a steep hill, many drivers of large vehicle use that as an excuse not to pull over. However, not only is it inconsiderate of other drivers, it often creates a safety hazard. It is SO much better to incur the inconvenience of restarting on a hill than to cause an accident. Many times you will be able to find a place to pull over where it won't be all that difficult getting going again.
If you climb a hill, eventually you'll be coming back down, perhaps on the other side or on your return trip. A heavy RV responds very well to gravity and you may quickly find yourself traveling faster than is legal, comfortable for the driver, or safe if you don't manage your downhill speed. DO NOT RIDE THE BRAKES! Using the brakes constantly will cause rapid wear and will also to cause them to overheat and once they've overheated they become useless. Even before reaching that stage, excessive use will cause glazing that reduces the friction between the brakes and the drums or rotors, seriously reducing stopping power. Keep in mind, brakes work by converting the kinetic energy of the vehicle into heat due to the friction between the brake pads or shoes and the rotors or drums. When the capacity of the shoes or pads to absorb heat is reached, they stop working. Heat builds up in the rotors or drums, causing them to warp. Once again you may be able to downshift and let the engine help hold you back. This works well on gasoline engines and on diesels with engine or "Jake" brakes, but is not very effective on other diesels. Just watch the RPMs so you don't over-rev the engine when you drop down a gear or two. Also be aware of local noise restrictions that prohibit the use of "engine brakes".
If downshifting doesn't hold your speed within acceptable parameters, use the brakes to slow to about 10 MPH below your target speed, then let off the brakes until the vehicle reaches about 10 MPH above the desired speed. Then apply the brakes again and repeat this procedure until you are off the hill. The time between brake applications helps allow the brakes to cool and maintain effectiveness. This is much better than riding the brakes to try in vain to maintain a constant desired speed.
Of course, it is advisable to avoid unusually steep or long grades whenever you can. So check your route before you leave home and try to select destinations and routes that won't put unusual stress on your vehicle or you! Along that line, you will want to make sure you don't get into a situation where your vehicle is too big for the available road and you have no place to turn around! So PLAN AHEAD! Sometimes the only way to reach a chosen destination includes climbing a difficult hill. If you've had problems with your vehicle overheating, try to plan your trip so you encounter the hill during during a cooler part of the day or during the night.
Auxiliary cooling systems might be used to keep radiators cool on heavy rigs on steep grades. The one I've found very effective and fairly inexpensive is to install a way to spray water on the front of the radiator. You can sometimes make one using and old windshield washer system from a junk yard. The water evaporates and helps cool the radiator. I've seen water injection used on carburated engines. These water injection systems were originally intended to help clean carbon inside the heads and cylinders but drivers discovered they could also improve mileage and reduce engine temperature slightly. Make sure the factory fan (and fan clutch, if so equipped) and belts and water pump are in good condition. Many newer vehicles have electrically operated fans that are controlled by a thermostat. Make sure your wiring and connectors are all in good condition.
When we had engine problems with the pickup truck pulling our enclosed motorcycle trailer up a particularly nasty hill, we stopped and unloaded the motorcycles and rode them to the top of the hill to reduce the weight in the trailer. Since each bike weights somewhere around 300 lbs, it made a big difference to offload 3 or 4 bikes. We were in a very remote area where riding dirt bikes on the paved road wasn't likely to be a problem even though it was technically illegal. You wouldn't want to try this on a freeway or a major highway. Another time we switched the trailer from the truck to the motorhome until we reached the top of the hill.
I think I can! I think I can!
Transporting your OHVs
In a previous post [Toy Haulers or Sport Utility Recreational Vehicles (SURVs)] we talked briefly about toy haulers, a great way to transport your OHVs. But that is by far not the only option. And it is certainly not the least expensive! When we first started out dirt biking, we mounted simple "basket" carriers on the front and rear bumpers of our Class C motorhome and lifted the dirt bikes into the carriers. Not the easiest or the most convenient option, but one of the least expensive and the load carrying capacity is limited. Many riders haul their toys in the back of a pickup truck. My daughter used her little S-10 pickup to haul her bike to her races. With the addition of a truck tent and it little camping gear it was also her home at the track. One of my dirt bike mentors hauled his bikes in a full size pickup and pulled a 23' travel trailer behind it. Not a bad option and it fit his family of 4 perfectly. There are also racks that slide into a Class III hitch receiver that can carry one or two dirt bikes or one ATV behind any vehicle with a suitable hitch. It is definitely easier to load a bike onto one of these racks (you can improvise a ramp if it doesn't have one) than lifting them into the basket carriers. Not having a trailer makes negotiating service stations and supermarket parking lots easier, but limits the size, weight, and number of vehicles and amount of tools, supplies, and gear you can carry. As the number of riders in our family outgrew two dirt bikes, we graduated to pulling a trailer. Our first "motorcycle" trailer had begun life as a Nimrod tent trailer. Everything that once made it a tent trailer was long gone. All that remained was the floor, running gear, and the 18" steel walls so it resembled a common utility trailer. The rear wall had been cut out and replaced with a hinged expanded metal ramp for loading the bikes. Eventually our family of 8 outgrew even that and by then we wanted an enclosed trailer so we'd have some place to get the bikes in out of the weather when they needed repairs during an outing and a place to store tools, spare parts, and riding gear that had grown to exceed the capacity of the footlocker in the front of the little trailer. For a while we towed an old construction office trailer that hauled 8 bikes and all our tools, spare parts, and gear, and served as a motorcycle shed at home. It did the job and the only real problem with this solution was it was BIG and HEAVY and UGLY. . It was like towing around a huge anchor all the time! It only cost a few hundred bucks, so it wasn't a big investment, but it sure affected the performance and mileage of our motorhome! I was able to lighten the load a little by removing two or three layers of asphalt tile from the floor and replacing it with vinyl sheeting. Somewhere along the line we acquired a little 4-rail trailer that would haul 4 dirt bikes. It would suffice for short outings when only part of the family was able to go and for ferrying a few bikes back and forth to the shop. With a family of 8 we soon needed more sleeping space too. Eventually we bought our first Smuggler. Even though it was only a 16 footer, it served our family well for many years, hauling bikes and tools and spare parts and gear and providing additional sleeping capacity once we got to camp. It was outfitted much like a low-end truck camper, with a sink, icebox, and stove, and sofa beds, but no sanitary facilities and no furnace. For several years we heated it with a Coleman catalytic tent heater. If you choose to use a catalytic heater, make sure you have adequate ventilation. They don't give off toxic fumes, but they do consume oxygen and you can suffocate if you share an enclosed space with one for too long. Eventually I picked up a furnace out of a truck camper in a junk yard and installed it. Because it came with a stove/oven, it already a propane tank. The furnace was a lot more convenient and efficient to use than the catalytic heater and made the trailer very comfortable on cold nights. Sometimes we even fired it up on cold days so we'd have a warm place to change in and out of our riding gear. I don't like to change in the motorhome because the latches on riding boots tend to scratch cabinets and tear upholstery and riding gear gets pretty dirty, something that is all too easily transferred to carpets and upholstery. Not only did the Smuggler haul our dirt bikes in it, it provided permanent storage for all of our gear, supplies, tools, and spare parts -- and made comfortable bedroom for 2-4 of the kids in camp. After several years of faithful service from the 16 footer, I found a 20' Smuggler. It was very similar to the 16 footer, but it came from the factory with a furnace, a shower, a gas refrigerator, and a hot water heater so it enhanced our extended living space for our dirt bike trips and made the boys more comfortable. The extra propane and water were a boon on extended desert outings. It didn't have a toilet or built in holding tanks but with the addition of a porta-potty, it was self-contained enough for limited outings for part of our family without having to drive the big motorhome. It towed easily behind our 3/4" ton pickup.
Utility trailers may be a fairly inexpensive way to transport your toys -- and you may be able to use them for other things as well. Some utility trailers are made from the bed of a pickup truck. Another popular option are flatbed "landscape" trailers, originally designed to haul riding lawn mowers etc. Just be sure to tie down your OHVs securely so they don't shift or fall off during travel. And be sure to purchase one of sufficient load capacity to handle the weight of your toys. If you opt for an open trailer you will need a footlocker or other closed container to haul your riding gear -- or keep it in your tow vehicle. I've seen people add a canopy to their flatbeds in camp to turn them into portable shaded patios in camp.
One fairly inexpensive and light weight option for a single motocycle is a trailer hitch mount carrier that holds the front wheel. You need only lift the front wheel into the carrier so its pretty easy to use. However, the rear wheel of the motorcycle remains on the ground so it will wear the rear tire while towing the bike. Hitch mounts are a pretty good options for bringing a street bike along for local use, but running the knobbies on dirt bike tires on the pavement is going to cause a lot of premature wear.
A 3 or 4 rail motorcycle trailer provides a very light weight solution to hauling dirt bikes. The only drawback to this style of trailer is the lack of anyplace to carry fuel, tools, spare parts, and riding gear, although some are equipped with a cargo locker on the tongue that will accommodate some of your stuff. A lot of riders simply tie down their tool box, gas cans, and gear bags between the vehicles, but that, of course, leaves them exposed to weather and may invite people you routinely exercise the "five-finger discount" to make off with your stuff.
Enclosed trailers protect your equipment during transport and can be locked to secure your stuff in camp --or while you're shopping in Walmart along the way. Some people even use them to store their toys at home and they are usually a good place to keep riding gear, tools, and spare parts at home. I like taking the bikes out at home so I can move around freely in the trailer to clean and maintain riding gear, tools and other equipment. Having a weatherproof place to work on vehicles in camp is really nice. Nice way to make productive use of what could otherwise be down time during bad weather. Just getting up out of the dirt saves a lot of hassle, like looking for dropped fasteners or contaminating dropped parts in the dirt and having a place to work on them during bad weather is close to heavenly, especially if you've ever had to try to work on your ride(s) in the rain or wind!
Regardless of the style you choose, there are two major weight considerations you must address. First is the carrying capacity of the trailer. I once loaned my 3-rail trailer to someone to transport a large street bike and it came back with the loading ramp and one of the rails badly bent because the bike was way over the design limit for the trailer and the ramp. Check out the axle weight rating and the tire weight rating to be sure you don't overload your trailer. An overloaded trailer will likely damage the suspension and may create handling problems. Overloaded tires are likely to overheat, causing a blowout. The second weight to consider is the combined weight of the trailer and everything you load in or on it. Make sure you do not exceed the towing capacity or the Combined Gross Vehicle Rating (CGVR) for what you'll be towing it with. If you keep your load within the weight ratings for the trailer and for the tow vehicle you shouldn't have any towing problems. If you feel the trailer swaying behind your tow vehicle you might want to consider adding an anti-sway bar. They mount between the hitch on the vehicle and the tongue of the trailer and provide resistance to keep the trailer from swinging back and forth so easily.
Eventually I bought what has become our ultimate motorcycle trailer. It was custom built by an engineer and dirt bike enthusiast on a 5500 pound single axle. It was just a shell when I bought it, with a nice Kennedy toolbox and a counter across the front end. I added a sink, additional shelving, and closet rods to hang our gear. I wired it for convenient 12-volt and 120 volt lighting and outlets. Eventually I added a roof air conditioner (that can only be used when the trailer is plugged into a dedicated circuit I had to add to my motorhome to power it), vinyl tile floor, and an awning. I built special racks to hold the gas cans near the rear ramp door and installed a rack to hang tie downs when they aren't in use. I found a good way to keep our boots organized and keep them from drooping while in storage. I mounted some 6" spring clamps (found at hardware stores and home centers) and clip the back of the top of the boot in the clamp lifting the soles off the floor. The boots don't fold over and they stay put, even when the trailer is bounced around off-road. I use similar 3" clamps to hold my knee braces. I am a bit lazy and don't like pumping up tires with a manual tire pump so I added an air compressor and installed fittings at convenient locations inside and outside the trailer. Fellow riders have said it looks like a motorcycle shop on wheels! Building it and using it has been almost as much fun as riding and having tools and spare parts has saved more than one outing for my family and our riding companions.
There are many other ways to transport your OHVs. As mentioned before, one of my dirt bike mentors had a pickup truck and a 23' travel trailer. The bikes rode in the back of the truck and when he arrived in camp he unhitched the trailer and leveled it, then unloaded the bikes. Another rider and his wife had a camper on a 4x4 pickup and towed a small 3-rail trailer for many years before graduating to a 14" enclosed utility trailer. If you have ATVs you'll need a pickup truck or a flatbed trailer or enclosed utility trailer to haul them around. You might haul a single ATV or a couple of dirt bikes on a hitch-mounted rack. Enclosed trailers have both advantages and disadvantages. One of the advantages is they protect from weather and prying eyes and theft while enroute and give you a cozy place to make repairs on your toys where you can be out of the wind and rain or sun and out of the dirt! And you can store your tools, gear, and spare parts in them at home so its all ready to go at a moment's notice. About the only downside is they are more expensive, heavier and often have more wind resistance than an open trailer, both of which can affect tow vehicle mileage and performance. Personally, I find the convenience well worth the impact on mileage and performance. Actually, I'm not sure the trailer has had much of an impact on my motorhome mileage, although I do sometimes notice a change in performance when climbing steep hills. My big Class A seems to be locked in at 7 mpg -- towing or solo, up hill, down hill, head winds, cross winds, sitting in a parking lot! Many people use a flatbed "landscape" utility trailer to haul dirt bikes and ATVs and snowmobiles. They are comparatively inexpensive and light weight. Two-, three-, or four-rail trailers are lightweight alternatives for hauling dirt bikes and some ATVs. However, I REALLY like having an enclosed trailer to organize and protect tools, gear, and spare parts and give me a place to work on the bikes in camp that is out of the weather and out of the dirt. I can keep all my gear, tools, and spare parts in the trailer so its ready to go without a lot of scrounging up stuff.
If you already have a big pickup or SUV with good towing capacity, purchasing a toy hauler or a travel trailer may be the most inexpensive way to get you and your toys to and from where you can ride and provide comfortable accommodations for you and your family. A toyhauler gives you both living space for you and garage space for hauling your OHVs, tools, and riding gear.
There are a few motorhomes that have a garage for toys, but they aren't as common as trailers and are quite expensive. If you come across one at a good price, it would be convenient, especially if you travel in states like California and Oregon that have a 55 miles speed limit for vehicles pulling trailers.
In some states it is legal to tow a trailer behind a trailer. In these locations you may see boats and/or motorcycle trailers being towed behind a travel trailer towed by a pickup or SUV. If your state does not permit double trailers, you can still put a rack on the back of your travel trailer to haul your toys. Just be careful to watch the hitch weight. Hanging too much weight on the back of a trailer can make the tongue weight dangerously light, affecting handling and safety. If you run into this problem, but still have towing capacity and hauling capacity in your trailer, try loading the trailer heavy in the front to compensate for the toys on the back. In some states a non-articulated trailer is considered part of the vehicle it is attached to and not a second trailer. I've seen non-articulated, one-wheel trailers adapted to haul motorcycles attached to the back of travel trailers even in California, where towing multiple trailers is prohibited. The front of the one wheel trailer is attached in two places so it functions like an extension of the larger trailer rather than a separate trailer.
I have seen devices that slide into the hitch receiver and hold the front wheel of motorcycle and leave the rear wheel on the road. These off-load a lot of the weight that hauling them on a rack with both wheels off the ground if your vehicle has limited towing capacity and hitch weight restrictions, but you'll put a lot of miles on that rear tire -- and off-road tires don't typically stand up well to a lot of pavement and high speed and may be illegal in some places. These are usually used to transport big street bikes rather than off-road machines.
Motorcycles pulling motorcycles? I've even seen guys rig up a way to tow their dirt bikes behind their street bikes on a small single-rail trailer or loaded on top of one of those little fiberglass motorcycle trailers. I think if I were in that situation I might opt for a dual sport bike I could ride on the street and in the dirt instead of having two bikes to maintain. But many people prefer keeping them separate as dual sports tend to be a compromise that aren't as good on the highway as road bikes and not as good on the trails as dirt bikes. Still, unless you're in professional competition, dual sport bikes are usually good enough for most people.
Be sure to check out what other riders are doing. You will learn some neat tricks for hauling your toys and stuff and get some idea of what will be the best solution for you. Many of the ideas I eventually incorporated into my current dirt bike trailer and my motorhome came from what I saw other riders doing. For example, a fellow-rider had built an ice-chest into the seating in his trailer. I found an ice chest that would fit into unused space under the seat in the dinette in my motorhome. Now we have extra capacity for cold drinks -- always a useful and welcome thing for desert dirt bike outings in the summertime! Fixed chocks secure the front wheels of dirt bikes for secure travel, but they consume otherwise usable floor space and become trip hazards when not in use. Removable chocks are a bit more expensive than their fixed counterparts, but are well worth it. Most are made of steel tubing and slide into special mounts installed in the floor. I found some that are made of steel channels that fold down flat into the floor of my dirt bike trailer and open up to the correct angle to hold the front tires and provide a slot for the tires to drop into when in used. Before I found those, I made my own home-made removable chocks by mounting the fixed part of door chain locks on the floor and mounting the right size, large-head screws into the bottom of inexpensive plastic automobile wheel chocks. When I needed the chocks, I just slid them into the floor mounts. In camp I could remove them and store them out of the way. I liked the way one creative rider used his loading ramp vertically, to keep the rear wheel of his dirt bike secure in his trailer. It attached to fixed mounts on the floor and ceiling with the channel cradling the back of the rear tire.
Flooring options. If you have an enclosed motorcycle trailer, you have several choices for flooring. When I bought my current trailer, the floor was unfinished plywood. I painted the plywood floor of my trailer with garage floor paint. A few years later I covered it with black and white checkered vinyl tile. Solid vinyl or linoleum sheet goods would be more durable. Spilled fuel or lubricants can seep through the seams of tile and loosen the adhesive. Since both the painted wooden floor and the vinyl tile tend to be quite cold to stand on when changing in and out of riding gear, I picked up an area rug that closely fits the open floor space so we have a soft, warm place to stand while changing. When it comes time to load the bikes, we roll up the rug and stow in on top of one of the fender wells and secure it to the wall with bungee cords. You may find just using a small accent rug or a bath mat gives you a place to stand and takes up less room. Bath mats are usually very soft and have a non-skid backing so they are ideal -- and inexpensive. When they get dirty, you can just throw them in the washing machine. You might also toss them in your gear bag so you can use them if you're going out without your trailer.
Fuel storage. For any type of off highway vehicles you will need to transport fuel. This is usually done using plastic gas cans or traditional "gerry" cans. I like the plastic "motocross" style gas cans. They are square and don't tip as easily as the narrow oblong "gerry" cans. I prefer the translucent ones so I can see the fuel level inside. Some fancy toy haulers have built in gas tanks to fuel the generator AND provide fuel for your toys, with a nozzle that works kind of like pumping gas at the gas station. Another option is a gravity fuel system where the tank is mounted on the roof or ceiling. I built gas can racks onto the floor of my motorcycle trailer just inside the rear ramp door. The cans don't slide around or tip over and they are conveniently located for filling and for use. The racks are made of 2x4s on edge screwed up through the floor. I put an eye bolt on each end and thread a tie down through the handles on the gas cans for extra security. I would prefer to carry fuel outside, but keeping the gas cans properly closed and secured so they don't tip over doesn't present any more risk than the fuel in the tanks of the dirt bikes. You should always make sure your enclosed trailer is well ventilated so any fuel escaping from gas tanks or fuel containers doesn't create a problem. A good place to transport gas cans is on the tongue or on a rack attached to the back bumper. Both of these locations place the fuel outside where fumes won't accumulate, but it does leave them more susceptible to theft. Even if your cans are securely locked someone might siphon out your expensive fuel. If you do carry your fuel inside your toy hauler, make sure you have adequate ventilation. I always leave the windows and roof vent open an inch or so to get some cross ventilation. Gasoline fumes are extremely volatile! Liquid fuel is pretty stable. I've seen demonstrations where a match was thrown into an open 1-gallon can filled with gas and the match went out. Do the same with only an inch of liquid fuel in the bottom and the upper part will be filled with fumes and you'll get a rather spectacular explosion! You definitely don't want your trailer to fill up with fumes! Open the roof vent an inch or two and leave at least one window open a little to provide cross ventilation to draw out any fumes from gas cans or the fuel tanks on your vehicles.
Other types of OHVs, like jet skies and snowmobiles, will have different transportation needs. Jet skis will need to be on a submersible trailer so you can launch them into the water. Enclosed trailers are not usually good options for jet skis. Snowmobile trailers often have pointed front ends with doors in the side of the point to allow the snowmobiles to be driven out instead of having to be backed out. Unlike ATVs, which are often loaded tilted back at an angle with their front wheels off the floor to get more vehicles in less floor space or dirt bikes that can be loaded very close to each other, snowmobiles require a lot of flat floor space. If you have sufficient room, a snowmobile trailer can be set up much like a dirt bike trailer to haul your tools, spare parts, and riding gear. Given the climate for snowmobiling you might want to add a furnace or propane heater to make the trailer more comfortable for working on your machines or just changing in and out of your snowmobile riding gear. Because a water tank will freeze, you probably won't want to install a water system in a snowmobile trailer. If you use the same trailer for summer outings and do have a water system be sure to drain it and properly winterize the system before freezing weather sets in or install some kind of heating system to prevent it from freezing. There are thermostatically controlled tank heating pads that run on both 120-volt ac and 12-volt dc current.
Happy hauling!
Utility trailers may be a fairly inexpensive way to transport your toys -- and you may be able to use them for other things as well. Some utility trailers are made from the bed of a pickup truck. Another popular option are flatbed "landscape" trailers, originally designed to haul riding lawn mowers etc. Just be sure to tie down your OHVs securely so they don't shift or fall off during travel. And be sure to purchase one of sufficient load capacity to handle the weight of your toys. If you opt for an open trailer you will need a footlocker or other closed container to haul your riding gear -- or keep it in your tow vehicle. I've seen people add a canopy to their flatbeds in camp to turn them into portable shaded patios in camp.
One fairly inexpensive and light weight option for a single motocycle is a trailer hitch mount carrier that holds the front wheel. You need only lift the front wheel into the carrier so its pretty easy to use. However, the rear wheel of the motorcycle remains on the ground so it will wear the rear tire while towing the bike. Hitch mounts are a pretty good options for bringing a street bike along for local use, but running the knobbies on dirt bike tires on the pavement is going to cause a lot of premature wear.
A 3 or 4 rail motorcycle trailer provides a very light weight solution to hauling dirt bikes. The only drawback to this style of trailer is the lack of anyplace to carry fuel, tools, spare parts, and riding gear, although some are equipped with a cargo locker on the tongue that will accommodate some of your stuff. A lot of riders simply tie down their tool box, gas cans, and gear bags between the vehicles, but that, of course, leaves them exposed to weather and may invite people you routinely exercise the "five-finger discount" to make off with your stuff.
Enclosed trailers protect your equipment during transport and can be locked to secure your stuff in camp --or while you're shopping in Walmart along the way. Some people even use them to store their toys at home and they are usually a good place to keep riding gear, tools, and spare parts at home. I like taking the bikes out at home so I can move around freely in the trailer to clean and maintain riding gear, tools and other equipment. Having a weatherproof place to work on vehicles in camp is really nice. Nice way to make productive use of what could otherwise be down time during bad weather. Just getting up out of the dirt saves a lot of hassle, like looking for dropped fasteners or contaminating dropped parts in the dirt and having a place to work on them during bad weather is close to heavenly, especially if you've ever had to try to work on your ride(s) in the rain or wind!
Regardless of the style you choose, there are two major weight considerations you must address. First is the carrying capacity of the trailer. I once loaned my 3-rail trailer to someone to transport a large street bike and it came back with the loading ramp and one of the rails badly bent because the bike was way over the design limit for the trailer and the ramp. Check out the axle weight rating and the tire weight rating to be sure you don't overload your trailer. An overloaded trailer will likely damage the suspension and may create handling problems. Overloaded tires are likely to overheat, causing a blowout. The second weight to consider is the combined weight of the trailer and everything you load in or on it. Make sure you do not exceed the towing capacity or the Combined Gross Vehicle Rating (CGVR) for what you'll be towing it with. If you keep your load within the weight ratings for the trailer and for the tow vehicle you shouldn't have any towing problems. If you feel the trailer swaying behind your tow vehicle you might want to consider adding an anti-sway bar. They mount between the hitch on the vehicle and the tongue of the trailer and provide resistance to keep the trailer from swinging back and forth so easily.
Eventually I bought what has become our ultimate motorcycle trailer. It was custom built by an engineer and dirt bike enthusiast on a 5500 pound single axle. It was just a shell when I bought it, with a nice Kennedy toolbox and a counter across the front end. I added a sink, additional shelving, and closet rods to hang our gear. I wired it for convenient 12-volt and 120 volt lighting and outlets. Eventually I added a roof air conditioner (that can only be used when the trailer is plugged into a dedicated circuit I had to add to my motorhome to power it), vinyl tile floor, and an awning. I built special racks to hold the gas cans near the rear ramp door and installed a rack to hang tie downs when they aren't in use. I found a good way to keep our boots organized and keep them from drooping while in storage. I mounted some 6" spring clamps (found at hardware stores and home centers) and clip the back of the top of the boot in the clamp lifting the soles off the floor. The boots don't fold over and they stay put, even when the trailer is bounced around off-road. I use similar 3" clamps to hold my knee braces. I am a bit lazy and don't like pumping up tires with a manual tire pump so I added an air compressor and installed fittings at convenient locations inside and outside the trailer. Fellow riders have said it looks like a motorcycle shop on wheels! Building it and using it has been almost as much fun as riding and having tools and spare parts has saved more than one outing for my family and our riding companions.
There are many other ways to transport your OHVs. As mentioned before, one of my dirt bike mentors had a pickup truck and a 23' travel trailer. The bikes rode in the back of the truck and when he arrived in camp he unhitched the trailer and leveled it, then unloaded the bikes. Another rider and his wife had a camper on a 4x4 pickup and towed a small 3-rail trailer for many years before graduating to a 14" enclosed utility trailer. If you have ATVs you'll need a pickup truck or a flatbed trailer or enclosed utility trailer to haul them around. You might haul a single ATV or a couple of dirt bikes on a hitch-mounted rack. Enclosed trailers have both advantages and disadvantages. One of the advantages is they protect from weather and prying eyes and theft while enroute and give you a cozy place to make repairs on your toys where you can be out of the wind and rain or sun and out of the dirt! And you can store your tools, gear, and spare parts in them at home so its all ready to go at a moment's notice. About the only downside is they are more expensive, heavier and often have more wind resistance than an open trailer, both of which can affect tow vehicle mileage and performance. Personally, I find the convenience well worth the impact on mileage and performance. Actually, I'm not sure the trailer has had much of an impact on my motorhome mileage, although I do sometimes notice a change in performance when climbing steep hills. My big Class A seems to be locked in at 7 mpg -- towing or solo, up hill, down hill, head winds, cross winds, sitting in a parking lot! Many people use a flatbed "landscape" utility trailer to haul dirt bikes and ATVs and snowmobiles. They are comparatively inexpensive and light weight. Two-, three-, or four-rail trailers are lightweight alternatives for hauling dirt bikes and some ATVs. However, I REALLY like having an enclosed trailer to organize and protect tools, gear, and spare parts and give me a place to work on the bikes in camp that is out of the weather and out of the dirt. I can keep all my gear, tools, and spare parts in the trailer so its ready to go without a lot of scrounging up stuff.
If you already have a big pickup or SUV with good towing capacity, purchasing a toy hauler or a travel trailer may be the most inexpensive way to get you and your toys to and from where you can ride and provide comfortable accommodations for you and your family. A toyhauler gives you both living space for you and garage space for hauling your OHVs, tools, and riding gear.
There are a few motorhomes that have a garage for toys, but they aren't as common as trailers and are quite expensive. If you come across one at a good price, it would be convenient, especially if you travel in states like California and Oregon that have a 55 miles speed limit for vehicles pulling trailers.
In some states it is legal to tow a trailer behind a trailer. In these locations you may see boats and/or motorcycle trailers being towed behind a travel trailer towed by a pickup or SUV. If your state does not permit double trailers, you can still put a rack on the back of your travel trailer to haul your toys. Just be careful to watch the hitch weight. Hanging too much weight on the back of a trailer can make the tongue weight dangerously light, affecting handling and safety. If you run into this problem, but still have towing capacity and hauling capacity in your trailer, try loading the trailer heavy in the front to compensate for the toys on the back. In some states a non-articulated trailer is considered part of the vehicle it is attached to and not a second trailer. I've seen non-articulated, one-wheel trailers adapted to haul motorcycles attached to the back of travel trailers even in California, where towing multiple trailers is prohibited. The front of the one wheel trailer is attached in two places so it functions like an extension of the larger trailer rather than a separate trailer.
I have seen devices that slide into the hitch receiver and hold the front wheel of motorcycle and leave the rear wheel on the road. These off-load a lot of the weight that hauling them on a rack with both wheels off the ground if your vehicle has limited towing capacity and hitch weight restrictions, but you'll put a lot of miles on that rear tire -- and off-road tires don't typically stand up well to a lot of pavement and high speed and may be illegal in some places. These are usually used to transport big street bikes rather than off-road machines.
Motorcycles pulling motorcycles? I've even seen guys rig up a way to tow their dirt bikes behind their street bikes on a small single-rail trailer or loaded on top of one of those little fiberglass motorcycle trailers. I think if I were in that situation I might opt for a dual sport bike I could ride on the street and in the dirt instead of having two bikes to maintain. But many people prefer keeping them separate as dual sports tend to be a compromise that aren't as good on the highway as road bikes and not as good on the trails as dirt bikes. Still, unless you're in professional competition, dual sport bikes are usually good enough for most people.
Be sure to check out what other riders are doing. You will learn some neat tricks for hauling your toys and stuff and get some idea of what will be the best solution for you. Many of the ideas I eventually incorporated into my current dirt bike trailer and my motorhome came from what I saw other riders doing. For example, a fellow-rider had built an ice-chest into the seating in his trailer. I found an ice chest that would fit into unused space under the seat in the dinette in my motorhome. Now we have extra capacity for cold drinks -- always a useful and welcome thing for desert dirt bike outings in the summertime! Fixed chocks secure the front wheels of dirt bikes for secure travel, but they consume otherwise usable floor space and become trip hazards when not in use. Removable chocks are a bit more expensive than their fixed counterparts, but are well worth it. Most are made of steel tubing and slide into special mounts installed in the floor. I found some that are made of steel channels that fold down flat into the floor of my dirt bike trailer and open up to the correct angle to hold the front tires and provide a slot for the tires to drop into when in used. Before I found those, I made my own home-made removable chocks by mounting the fixed part of door chain locks on the floor and mounting the right size, large-head screws into the bottom of inexpensive plastic automobile wheel chocks. When I needed the chocks, I just slid them into the floor mounts. In camp I could remove them and store them out of the way. I liked the way one creative rider used his loading ramp vertically, to keep the rear wheel of his dirt bike secure in his trailer. It attached to fixed mounts on the floor and ceiling with the channel cradling the back of the rear tire.
Flooring options. If you have an enclosed motorcycle trailer, you have several choices for flooring. When I bought my current trailer, the floor was unfinished plywood. I painted the plywood floor of my trailer with garage floor paint. A few years later I covered it with black and white checkered vinyl tile. Solid vinyl or linoleum sheet goods would be more durable. Spilled fuel or lubricants can seep through the seams of tile and loosen the adhesive. Since both the painted wooden floor and the vinyl tile tend to be quite cold to stand on when changing in and out of riding gear, I picked up an area rug that closely fits the open floor space so we have a soft, warm place to stand while changing. When it comes time to load the bikes, we roll up the rug and stow in on top of one of the fender wells and secure it to the wall with bungee cords. You may find just using a small accent rug or a bath mat gives you a place to stand and takes up less room. Bath mats are usually very soft and have a non-skid backing so they are ideal -- and inexpensive. When they get dirty, you can just throw them in the washing machine. You might also toss them in your gear bag so you can use them if you're going out without your trailer.
Fuel storage. For any type of off highway vehicles you will need to transport fuel. This is usually done using plastic gas cans or traditional "gerry" cans. I like the plastic "motocross" style gas cans. They are square and don't tip as easily as the narrow oblong "gerry" cans. I prefer the translucent ones so I can see the fuel level inside. Some fancy toy haulers have built in gas tanks to fuel the generator AND provide fuel for your toys, with a nozzle that works kind of like pumping gas at the gas station. Another option is a gravity fuel system where the tank is mounted on the roof or ceiling. I built gas can racks onto the floor of my motorcycle trailer just inside the rear ramp door. The cans don't slide around or tip over and they are conveniently located for filling and for use. The racks are made of 2x4s on edge screwed up through the floor. I put an eye bolt on each end and thread a tie down through the handles on the gas cans for extra security. I would prefer to carry fuel outside, but keeping the gas cans properly closed and secured so they don't tip over doesn't present any more risk than the fuel in the tanks of the dirt bikes. You should always make sure your enclosed trailer is well ventilated so any fuel escaping from gas tanks or fuel containers doesn't create a problem. A good place to transport gas cans is on the tongue or on a rack attached to the back bumper. Both of these locations place the fuel outside where fumes won't accumulate, but it does leave them more susceptible to theft. Even if your cans are securely locked someone might siphon out your expensive fuel. If you do carry your fuel inside your toy hauler, make sure you have adequate ventilation. I always leave the windows and roof vent open an inch or so to get some cross ventilation. Gasoline fumes are extremely volatile! Liquid fuel is pretty stable. I've seen demonstrations where a match was thrown into an open 1-gallon can filled with gas and the match went out. Do the same with only an inch of liquid fuel in the bottom and the upper part will be filled with fumes and you'll get a rather spectacular explosion! You definitely don't want your trailer to fill up with fumes! Open the roof vent an inch or two and leave at least one window open a little to provide cross ventilation to draw out any fumes from gas cans or the fuel tanks on your vehicles.
Other types of OHVs, like jet skies and snowmobiles, will have different transportation needs. Jet skis will need to be on a submersible trailer so you can launch them into the water. Enclosed trailers are not usually good options for jet skis. Snowmobile trailers often have pointed front ends with doors in the side of the point to allow the snowmobiles to be driven out instead of having to be backed out. Unlike ATVs, which are often loaded tilted back at an angle with their front wheels off the floor to get more vehicles in less floor space or dirt bikes that can be loaded very close to each other, snowmobiles require a lot of flat floor space. If you have sufficient room, a snowmobile trailer can be set up much like a dirt bike trailer to haul your tools, spare parts, and riding gear. Given the climate for snowmobiling you might want to add a furnace or propane heater to make the trailer more comfortable for working on your machines or just changing in and out of your snowmobile riding gear. Because a water tank will freeze, you probably won't want to install a water system in a snowmobile trailer. If you use the same trailer for summer outings and do have a water system be sure to drain it and properly winterize the system before freezing weather sets in or install some kind of heating system to prevent it from freezing. There are thermostatically controlled tank heating pads that run on both 120-volt ac and 12-volt dc current.
Happy hauling!
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