COVID and Camping -- Summer 2022

In most places most COVID restrictions have been lifted by now letting us get back closer to what was once normal.  Here in Oregon masks are still required in health care environments, including pharmacies as well as hospitals, clinics, doctor and dentist offices but not for other locations.  However, as new COVID cases increase there is currently talk of reinstating mask requirements indoors.  Fortunately that hasn't happened yet (mid-July) but it if the number of cases picks up again, we could see more restrictions.  I have been somewhat annoyed to see people without masks stand with a sign right at eye level telling them masks are required in that facility while all the workers and most of the people in line with them are properly wearing masks.  Yes, I know, the masks are a nuisance and inconvenience, but everyone really should make an effort to comply with posted regulations.  Think about it:  where are you most likely to encounter people with illnesses, including COVID?  Of course the answer is in health care settings!

Masks are no longer required for most outdoor activities.   That is excellent news for campers and boaters!  For the most part we can once again enjoy our outdoor recreational activities without restrictions on the number of people in our group or having to wear face masks.  I recall a while back when there were numerical restrictions on the size of gatherings I heard an amusing story.  Since normal gatherings were limited to 10 people but the limit for funerals was 30, one creative guy listed his Thanksgiving feast as a funeral for his pet turkey, allowing him to invite more than 10 people!  O admired his creativity!

With restrictions being eased, the number of COVID cases is peaking again in many areas.  If we want to reduce the chances of getting COVID, we still need to be on guard.  Avoid contact with anyone who has or is suspected to have COVID.  Maintain social distancing, even in out door situations.  Wearing an ordinary mask helps prevent you from giving COVID to someone else if you happen to have it.  Wearing a KN95 mask actually provides you some protection as well.  Even before COVID we wore KN95 masks as EMRs in our volunteer fire department when responding to medical calls where we could be exposed to any number of airborne or bloodborn infections.

If you believe you have COVID you should still quarantine yourself until you are safe to be around.  Initial quarantine for travelers was 14 days after returning from out of country or out of state but more recently it was lowered to 3 days.  Home COVID tests provided by the government let you find out right away if those unpleasant flu-like symptoms you might be having are actually COVID. If you have COVID symtpoms, stay away from other people!  You would not want to responsible for giving COVID to any of your family or friends.

COVID vaccines are working to reduce the number of deaths and hospitalizations from COVID.    The COVID vaccine may not completely guarantee you won't get COVID, but it is still a good idea to get it.  I know of a number of people who were fully vaccinated and had the booster shot and still got COVID.  However, their cases were much less onerous than unvaccinated victims.  They did not require hospitalization and recovered quickly.  I realize there are people who object the the vaccinations for legitimate religious or personal reasons.  However, I strongly urge everyone who can to get vaccinated to help reduce the chances of getting infected, to minimize the affects if you do get it, and to help reduce the overall spread of the disease.

The Bottom Line:  we should be able to go camping, boating, off-roading, and enjoy most of our favorite outdoor activities without wearing masks, at least for the time being, which is a very good thing!

Camp COVID Free!

Sleeping Pads and Mattresses for RVing, Camping, and Boating

If you go RVing, camping, or boating for more than a few hours at a time you are going to need a good place to sleep.  A comfortable bed sometimes seems like a luxury but actually it is absolutely essential.  Sure, you can push things and skip a few hours of rest now and then, but sooner or later it will catch up with you.  If you want to enjoy your outings to the fullest, figure out how to get a good night's sleep every night you are out.  And that means having a good bed!

Getting a good night's sleep when you are away from home can be challenging.  It isn't unusual to experience difficult sleeping away from home even if you are in an expensive, comfortable resort hotel with excellent beds.  The problems are greatly magnified the more different your environment is from what you are used to at home.   Sleeping in your RV, tent, or boat is going to take some getting used to and perhaps some adjustments.  Obviously the bed will be different, sometimes VERY different but there a a lot of little things like lights, sounds, and smells that might interfere with sleeping, things we normally don't even notice or think about at home.  Rain and wind on a tent or even the roof of an RV or boat cabin will be much louder and disconcerting than it is at home.  Tents flap and RVs and boats rock in the wind, something most of our homes never do.  Even strong, mature folks may find themselves cowering like they did as kids when the thunder and lightning booms and flashes.

One very common problem of sleeping in an RV, a tent, or a boat is that the bed isn't always as comfortable as the one you have at home.  It makes more sense to invest a lot of money in a good bed at home.  After all, we use it every day and spend about 1/3 of our lives in it!  We are often reluctant to spend the money to make the beds in our recreational activities as comfortable since they aren't used as often.  Limited space together with weight limitations may also restrict our choices.  As a result, we often pay the price in terms of aches and pains and fatigue that negatively impacts the activities we have so been looking forward to enjoying.

What you are sleeping on most likely has the biggest impact on how well you will sleep.  True, there are other factors such as strange noises or smells and different temperatures, but for sure you aren't going to sleep very well if your sleeping bag is right on a rough patch of ground with twigs and rocks that poke you all night or your mattress is too hard or too soft.  RV and boat mattresses are all too often designed more to conserve weight than to be good for sleeping on.  The beds in RVs and boats are often too hard (not enough padding) or too soft (too much or the wrong kind of padding).  Either way, you are not going to sleep well.  Fortunately, RV and boat mattresses can be upgraded.  Sometimes all it takes is a good mattress topper to make one of these beds more comfortable.  We typically use a 3" memory foam mattress toppers in our RVs and boats.  These tend to compensate for mattresses that are either too thin, too hard, or too soft.  Most modern memory foam products provide pretty good ventilation so they don't cause the "too warm" problems often associated with older foam mattresses.  The upgrade is well worth the investment to get a good night's sleep on outings.

For tent camping many people use sleeping pads.   Most sleeping pads are 1/2"or less thick and made of a fairly dense foam that protects against sharp debris and provides some padding beneath you.  Sleeping pads are never going to give you the same level of comfort and support you get from a thick mattress at home but they can go along way toward mitigating the problems of being on cold ground or lying on top of rough stuff.  They should be thick enough and sturdy enough to protect you from cold rough ground but light enough to be easily carried to and from your camp site.  Backpackers sometimes opt for a short pad that only reaches from shoulders to hips but longer pads will do a better job of keeping your sleeping bag (and you) up off the cold, rough ground.  If one pad isn't enough to be comfortable for you, try using two.  Air mattresses are another popular option for tent campers.  As long as you don't have a leak in the mattress they can provide several inches of comfortable support and they are adjustable.  You can add or extract air to make them harder or softer to suit your needs.  They are light weight and when deflated take a very little room for so they are good for hiking and back packing.  Most air mattresses can be fairly easily inflated simply by blowing air into them.  Manual and battery powered pumps are available if your lungs aren't up to the task.  There are even some self-inflating mattresses that expand and draw air in when they are unrolled.

The beds in RVs and boats may or may not be the same size and shape as residential mattresses.   If they are you can usually use standard sheets and blankets.  If they are not, you may have to make temporary or permanent adjustments to get your bedding to fit.  Temporary adjustments can usually be made by tucking excess material under the mattress.  Permanent changes require cutting and sewing the bedding to fit the specific mattress shape and size.  RVs sometimes have corners cut off beds to facilitate movement around the RV.  Queen and King RV beds are usually a little smaller than their residential counterparts.  Boats often have a primary bed in the bow called a V-berth.  The V-berth in our 25' sailboat is a bit wider than a queen bed at the head and only 9" wide at the foot.  Sometimes you can buy commercially made replacement mattresses to fit RVs and boats.  If you can't find one that fits you can make or have one made of foam to fit exactly.  Be sure to try out various thicknesses and densities of foam to make sure you get one that meets your personal needs.   If is too thin it won't be comfortable; if it is too thick it may take up too much room in your RV or boat.  If it is too soft it will collapse and you will end up sleeping on the hard platform beneath it.  If it s too hard, it will not let you get comfortable.  Either way, you are not going to get a good night's sleep.

Cots are a way of making sleeping in a tent a little closer to sleeping at home.  They get you up off the ground and that often makes it easier to get in and out of bed as well as keeping you off the twigs and rocks under your tent floor and off the cold ground.  That can be especially helpful for older people or people with physical disabilities that inhibit movement.  Most camp cots are made of canvas and that together with the flexing of the frame provides a little bit of springiness, but nothing close to your box springs at home.  A good sleeping pad or air mattress is will still usually be needed for comfort and the best rest.  If you have room to transport them you can even buy "real" mattresses to fit cots.

Modern memory foam mattress toppers can be a boon for many situations.  They work especially well in RVs and boats but you might use them to good advantage when tent camping if you have enough room to cart them around.  They come in various firmnesses and thicknesses so be sure to find one that meets your needs.  Thinner pads will be lighter and easier to carry while thicker ones will be more comfortable.

Careful choice of sleeping pads or mattresses can ensure you get the best sleep possible in camp or on your boat.   The closer you can match your bed -- and in fact all your sleeping conditions -- to the environment you enjoy at home, the more comfortable you will be and the better you will sleep.

Don't just lay there!

Sunglasses for RVing, OHVing, Camping, and Boating

When we think of Personal Protective Equipment (PPE), what usually comes to mind is OHV body armor or even something like firefighter turn out gear.  However, even something as common as ordinary sunglasses can be considered PPE but are often ignored.

Sunglasses are nearly essential for just about any outdoor recreational activities.    We see a lot of sources promoting the use of sunscreen to protect our skin against cancer-causing UV light.  Our eyes are also subject to UV light and are worth protecting.   Good sunglasses are more than just a fashion accessory or comfort.  They are essential for protecting our eyes against damaging UV radiation. which in addition to being uncomfortable can cause permanent damage to our eyes.  Sunglasses can be especially useful when we are around water -- on our boats or near the ocean or a lake.  

NOTE:  sunglasses are NOT an adequate substitute for safety glasses or goggles when you need to protect your eyes from flying debris.  Sturdy sunglasses can provide some protection against flying debris like wood chips from chopping wood or sparks kicked out by a popping campfire.  They are not an adequate substitute for safety goggles, but can provide some protection.  You should still wear real safety glasses or goggles when performing any task that might generate flying debris or when riding in or on OHVs.  While sunglasses might block some things flying directly into your eyes, they lack the strength and wrap-around protection provided by safety glasses.  The primary use of sunglasses to to reduce the glare and discomfort and improve vision in bright sunlight along with protecting from UV radiation.  To many people they are also a fashion statement.

You've probably seen OHV riders wearing sunglasses instead of goggles.  Not a good idea!  You really need the extra protection of googles when riding in an open OHV.  Sunglasses provide some but not enough protection.  Sunglasses might be OK if you are in a side-by-side with a windshield, but you should always wear goggles riding a dirt bike or ATV.  I always wear goggles even in a side-by-side.  If you need dark lenses, opt for shaded or light sensitive lenses for you goggles.  Or get goggles that will fit over your sunglasses, which is also a good option for folks who wear prescription glasses.  You always want to be able to clearly see where you are going!

Polarized sunglasses have lenses that filter out reflections from horizontal surfaces such as bodies of water, paved roads, and even the hood of your vehicle.  If you are driving on icy roads you might want to see those reflections so then you might want to wear non-polarized lenses.  Polarized lenses also affect how well you can see LCD screens making it difficult or impossible to read some phone and computer screens with them on.

Sunglass lenses are available in various colors.  Lens color is more than a fashion statement.  Green lenses  provide better contrast than gray lenses and transmit color accuracy better than brown lenses. Ideal for both sunny and low-light environments, green lenses have a way of reducing glare while brightening shadows. Blue and yellow both tend to distort color perception even though yellow can help sharpen images, hence their use by hunters and shooters.  Reflective silver lenses look cool but it is the base color underneath that will affect how you see.

Sunglasses do wear out.  Some signs of wear, such as scratches, damaged ear pieces, or missing nose pads are obvious but even the polarization as well as the tint will fade over time.  On average, sunglasses should be replaced about every two years, more frequently if wear them daily in a high UV environment.

Cost.  Sunglasses can cost as little as $1.25 (at Dollar Tree) and you can spend well over $200 for high end designer glasses.  Are the expensive sunglasses really worth the extra cost?  That is a very subjective question, one that only you can answer for your own situation.  If, like me, you have a tendency to lose to break your sunglasses often, less expensive ones will lessen the financial as well if not the emotional impact of frequent loss.  More expensive sunglasses are usually made of better materials and may provide a better fit and may have more features.  Generally speaking, the lower the cost of your lenses, the fewer features you have available.  Personally, I like to have several pairs of sunglasses in different places so they are always convenient when I need them.  I keep some on my dresser, in my car and truck, in my motorhome, in my boat, and in my motorcycle trailer.  Stocking all those places with designer glasses would cost me a fortune so I tend toward the less expensive glasses that I can also replace cheaply as often as needed.  I wear them when driving, when doing yard work, and when just relaxing outdoors.  I have recently started seeing ads on TV decrying the high cost of designer sunglasses.  One begins by saying it is ironic that the most expensive part of what you are wearing is also the most fragile, at which point he removes his companions designer sunglasses and easily snaps them in half!  But even their ''affordable'''sunglasses are more than $50 a pair! Guess it beats $200 a pair!

Prescription sunglasses.  If you normally wear eye glasses you might want to consider getting prescription sunglasses for outdoor use.  There are a couple of alternatives.  One is to opt for light darkening lenses on your regular prescription glasses.  The lenses will darken in just a few seconds when exposed to bright sunlight, making them pretty good for driving.  But they are slow to lighten again when you go inside, which can be a problem if you drive into a long tunnel where you need more light.  Clip-on or flip-up sunglasses can be worn over prescription glasses.  If they contact the lenses they can scratch or rub them so always be careful putting them on and off and make sure they don't press against the prescription lens.  Sometimes, if your prescription hasn't changed too much, you can have your old prescription glasses tinted to use as sunglasses when you get new glasses.

Sunglasses usually don't fog up because we usually aren't using them in the cold, damp environments that contribute to fogging (skiing might be an exception).  If, for any reason,  you encounter fogging you might protect them with anti-fog compounds used for off-road goggles.  One of the most effective and most popular is a brand named Cat Crap.  As unappealing as the name may be, the stuff really does work.  There are also a number of anti-fog sprays and anti-fog wipes that will help keep your lenses clear but I'm told it only lasts about half an hour.  Rubbing alcohol is also said to work.  Also detergents.  Anti-fog preparations work by changing the surface tension so water vapor doesn't condense on the lens.

Cleaning sunglasses.  Like all lenses, sunglasses should never be rubbed dry.  Your best bet is to wet the each lens, add a drop of liquid soap, clean the lens, rinse it, and dry it with a soft, clean cloth.  Paper towels are usually too coarse to safely clean lenses.  Facial tissue often contains lotions that can leave deposits that fog or streak.  Even some toilet tissue is coarse enough to scratch lenses or has lotions that leave streaks.  The safest thing to use is a lens cleaning cloth designed for that purpose.  Lots of people use handkerchiefs or shirt tails but they are too coarse and over time they will scratch and dull lenses.

Sometimes you can clear scratches from sunglasses to improve clarity, but often they are probably already nearing the end of their useful life by the time they get enough scratches to become cloudy.  I have used a 3-part plastic polish successfully on googles and motorcycle face shields but have not tried them on sunglasses.  The 3-part system uses progressively finer grits for removing scratches then polishing the lenses.  Sometimes the optical departments at places like Walmart offer lens cleaning services that might be worth trying.  However, the cost might be higher than replacing cheap sunglasses.

I can see clearly now!

Off Road Riding Areas

What make a good off road riding area?  Actually there are many different type of terrain that can provide interesting off road riding experiences.  Here are some common factors to think about.  Some basic things to consider include what type of activity you will be doing (dirt bikes, ATVs, horseback riding, etc.), your level of experience (you will enjoy more difficult and challenging terrain only after you are experienced), weather (be sure to dress appropriately), and number and level of experience of riders in your group, how much time you have (limited travel time means you need a place close to home).

1.  Access to riding trails and/or open areas.  The next big necessary feature is access to good riding trails or open riding areas.  The most enjoyable outings we had in southern California were in places that provide both good trails and open riding areas.  What makes up a good trail depends on what you are riding, your level of expertise, and your expectations.  I like trail systems that provide a variety of riding experiences, some for young or novice riders and some with more technical challenges for more experienced folks.  Rolling hills can provide hours of moderate level entertainment.  Open riding areas usually offer plenty of fairly flat places for novices to learn and may often include rolling hills and sometimes even more aggressive hill climbs and technical challenges.

2.  Reasonable access to necessary resources.  The definition of both ''reasonable access'' and '' necessary resources'' will depend on the user.  For some being within an hour or so of a small town where you can get necessary supplies is enough while some folks might consider full RV hookups a must (please note that places with full RV hookups seldom have good access to riding areas!).  I had a friend whose idea of roughing it was having to ring twice for room service!

3.  Plenty of room to camp.  How much room you need will depend on the size of your group.  Solo riders  or small families need only a single campsite.  Larger groups need room for multiple individual areas and often include motorhomes, camping trailers, and tent campers.  Our Desert Rat group usually staked out a nice big area that could accommodate about a dozen rigs arranged around a central fire pit like the circling of a pioneer wagon train.

4.  Appropriate terrain for your riding style.   Options might include trails, hills, beaches, sand washes, and open riding areas.  Some areas may have trails specifically designed for specialized learning, such as beginner's trails and even rock crawler practice tracks.

5.  Access to emergency services.  We all hope we never need emergency services when we are riding our OHVs, but stuff happens.  There are accidents.  Vehicles break down.  People get sick or injured.  We run out of provisions.  Most off road riding areas will be some distance from the emergency services and stores we are used to at home.  Invest a little time familiarizing yourself with where and how to get emergency services when you go off road.  Know where you have to go to get a signal for your cell phone.  Know where to find or contact rangers or law enforcement.  We were pleased that the California City Police Department posted signs all over the open riding areas near California City with their direct phone number.  Dialing 911 in that area would connect you to the California Highway Patrol a couple of hundred miles away.  Emergency response times directly from California City were much faster.  I had a number of personal encounters with California City Police, both out on the trails and when assisting other users to get help in town and am pleased to say they were always professional, helpful, and friendly.  They even sponsored volunteer Desert Indcident Response Teams to aid lost or injured riders.

6.  Appropriate weather.   For most OHV outings we want mild temperatures and sunny skies.  For snowmobiling we need snow on the ground but not too much of it still falling.  Rain can dampen more than spirits when you are riding a dirt bike or ATV but is probably less of a problem if you have a covered side-by-side.  Most of our family outings in southern California were to parts of the Mojave Desert but sometimes, in the hottest part of the summer, we would head a little further up into the mountains to escape the heat.  We once left the valley floor at 5:00 am when it was over 100F and arrived at our campground at over 9000 feet elevation a few hours later and needed winter coats!  Desert trails in the summer are very hot and very dusty.  Forest trails were a lot more pleasant, with little dust and even some shady portions to ride through.

7.  Not TOO far from home.   Ultimately you when you go off roading you want to spend as much time as possible riding you OHV, not getting there and getting back.  But given the nature of off roading, you should probably count on at least some driving.  Many of our favorite riding areas were more than 150 miles from our home!  That meant we generally only went there on 3-day weekends or other extended outings.  You may want to find someplace closer to home where you can swing by for a quick weekend or even after work ride.  Places for short outings don't have to have all the neat features you might seek for longer excursions, but they can still be fun.  After all, dirt is dirt!

Check with local land managers like the US Forest Service, your state Forest Service, or, in Western States, the Bureau of Land Management to learn about riding areas within their jurisdictions.  Local, state, and regional OHV clubs may also be able to provide some suggestions.  You should be able to get some good ideas from the Internet.  Do an online search for ''off road riding areas near me''  You may be surprised at the resources that pop up!  Personally I prefer getting recommendations from other riders so I can learn more details about prospective areas before investing the time and fuel to go there.

Never assume it is OK to ride just because an area is remote and undeveloped.   Many such areas are private property and you would be trespassing.  Trespassers can be arrested and could face stiff fines and maybe even jail time.  Many desolate remote areas were once used for mining and you may encounter loose tailing piles and dangerous pits that can lead to accidents that damage your equipment and your body!  You may even see well used trails that trespass on private property.  Just because others are blatantly trespassing doesn't make it OK, and the useage could be from the owner or other authorized users.  If you encounter a NO TRESSPASSING or PRIVATE PROPERTY sign, stop and turn around immediately unless you have specific written permission from the owner to be there.  Written permission is usually best, in case you have to prove your right to there to law enforcement.

While we are on the subject of riding areas, we need to cover appropriate behavior.  Off road enthusiasts get blamed frequently and often erroneously for trashing off road staging areas.  I have personally been involved in a number of clean up projects, both as an organizer and a worker, and in literally every case, most of the trash we collected was from illegal dumping by nearby residents, not stuff left behind by riders.  In one case we filled a 40 yard dumpster with the junk we gathered up, which included sofas, toilets, TVs, and car parts -- not stuff anyone hauls around on their dirt bikes or ATVs!  In talking with BLM land managers in southern California and Utah I confirmed that our experience was typical.  Very little if any of the refuse collected on clean up projects is the result of off road usage.  That being said, we should still do our part to take care of the steadily diminishing riding areas we have.  Always clean up after yourself.  The Desert Rat off road group I was part of in southern California always put in some time policing the area around our camp sites and staging areas to clean up any wayward trash before departing.  It only takes 15-20 minutes to make a good pass around your campsite picking up trash and it will payoff in keeping it nice for the next visitor -- which could be you!  Sometimes we had to clean up the area when we arrived because others had left it a mess.  Another important part of appropriate behavior is complying with rules.  We may not always agree with or understand certain rather oppressive rules but blatantly defying them only strengthens the opposition and leads to even more oppressive rules and sometimes complete closure of riding areas.  When you encounter offensive rules, contact the relevant land manager to express your opposition and find out if there is any legitimate reason for the rules.  Believe it or not, land managers are tasked with actually managing the land under their jurisdiction and that means supporting all appropriate uses, not just keeping people off of it!  I have generally been very pleased with the support I have seen from US Forest Service rangers, BLM managers, and California State OHV park rangers.  I once had to coordinate a clean up project with a BLM manager whose title included CONSERVATION so I was a little intimidated to start with.  He turned out to be very helpful and surprisingly supportive of our off road activities.  He even directed the leader of an environmental group at a college near our riding area to contact me for permission to participate in our event.  It was interesting seeing off-roaders and environmentalists working side by side for a common goal.  I think both groups were kind of surprised to learn the other group was made of good people.

You will usually find some popular riding areas within a reasonable drive of almost every major population center, at least in the Western states.  These places typically are easy to find and easy to get to.  In most cases they will include trails for a variety of riding styles and skill levels.  About the only downside is there will usually be a lot of other riders unless you go during some ''off'' time, like week days or during bad weather.  Sometimes having other riders around is a good thing.  They can be a useful source of information and even help if you need it.  Just observing them can be both educational and entertaining.  There are also more remote and less used riding areas that can be a lot of fun.  If you prefer solitude when camping, these might be a better choice for you.  Just know that if if anything happens (accident, illness, injury, breakdown) you will likely be on your own for at least a while.

When you find a good riding area should you stick with it?  The answer is a definite maybe!  There are distinct advantages to riding in a familiar setting.  You aren't likely to get lost. You will know how long it will take to reach various familiar destinations so you can plan your rides efficiently.  Riding familiar territory is fun and can feel comfortable.  It is a good place to train new additions to your riding group, whether be be biologically related to you or not.   I had been the "new kid" for so long I was surprised when on one outing I discovered I was the only ''old timer'' in our group of about 6 riders.  However, exploring new trails has a very strong appeal of it's own.  New trails can yield new challenges that help you extend your skills.  New trails let you experience different opportunities to test your skills and your equipment and enjoy new scenery.  New trails lead to new destinations and often each destination has its own set of desirable attributes and advantages.  Match your choice with your wants and needs for each outing.  If you are bringing new riders you might give a preference to familiar locations where you can share your knowledge and expertise.  If you are looking for increased excitement and new experiences, consider new riding areas.  I found it a lot of fun to explore new areas with someone who had been there before.

Only you can decide what  is a good off road riding area for you. 

A Trailer For Hauling Your Camping Gear

Do you need a trailer to haul your camping gear?  Well, maybe.  Depends on your camping style, how much gear you have, how many people are in your group, what kind of vehicle you have, where you are going. what kind of activities you will be involved in, and how long you are going for.  The larger your group, the more complex your activities, and the longer you plan to be gone, the more likely you will need room to haul more stuff.  You might also need extra supplies if your destination is very remote and you won't have reasonable access to additional supplies as needed.

If you normally go camping in a motorhome, camping trailer, or truck camper, you probably won't need a utility trailer to haul your camping gear.  You can usually stow everything you need in your rig.  But sometimes you may want to bring along more stuff than you have room for in your normal recreational vehicle.  Having more people than usual or going on a longer trip than usual typically requires bringing along more stuff.   In such cases or if you are a tent camper and don't have a large vehicle to transport your gear, you will probably want to consider buying or making a light-weight utility trailer to tote your stuff around.  Pickups, vans, and large SUVs might have enough capacity but ordinary passenger cars, especially the small, compact, fuel efficient ones we generally prefer for daily drivers, will probably need extra cargo carrying space.

Even if you are a tent camper you may or may not need a trailer to haul your camping gear.  If you drive a large SUV or a pickup truck you probably have all the room you need to transport your normal camping equipment.  Even a station wagon or a full-size sedan may be adequate.  However, in these days of steadily increasing fuel prices you may choose a smaller, more fuel-efficient vehicle for your daily driver.  Or if your family or regular camping group is large your gear might not fit in any vehicle, especially a smaller one.   If either is the case, you might need a small, light-weight trailer to transport your camping gear.  When I was a teen our family of 4 went camping in a '57 Hudson with sleeper seats and were quite comfortable for several days of travel and camping in and around Yellowstone Park and everything we needed fit comfortably in the trunk.  The same trip in a regular passenger car a year or so later required motel stops.

Some alternatives to a trailer might include a roof top carrier or hitch-mounted cargo rack or box.  If you have a vehicle with a roof rack you may be able to carry a lot of the bulky, lighter weight items like sleeping bags in a waterproof cargo bag secured to the roof rack. If you live in an area that gets little rain you might get way without covering your cargo, but whether you use a cargo carrier or a tarp it is still a good idea to cover the load to protect it from sunlight, wind, possible rain, and prying eyes.  Simply keeping things out of sight can provide a certain level of  "security by obscurity" and reduce thefts of opportunity.  Whenever you haul cargo outside your vehicle make sure it is securely anchored so it doesn't blow or bounce off during travel.  Avoid putting heavy items on roof racks.  Getting it up and down risks injury and having heavy loads up high can affect vehicle handling and could damage the roof.

A lightweight utility trailer isn't hard to come by.  Many home centers sell small trailers for home use and for transporting lawn mowers and other power yard equipment.  If you have a bent for do-it-yourself projects you can build your own trailer using trailer kits like those available at Harbor Freight.  They have kits for different size trailers.  A popular size is 48"x96", just right for a single sheet of 3/4" plywood to make the floor.  It is small enough and light enough to be pulled by a small vehicle yet large enough to carry almost all the camping gear you will need for the average family.  Flat bed trailers or utility trailers or even enclosed box trailers are all good possibilities.  What you choose will depend on your individual needs, budget, and availability.  Flat beds make it easy to load and unload wheeled toys.  Utility trailers help keep things secure in transit without having to tie them down.   You may be able to tarp both flat bed trailers and utility trailers to protect your gear against sun and rain.   Enclosed trailers provide the most security for your gear on the road and in camp and provide convenient extra protection against the weather.  You can often find small, inexpensive trailers for sale on craigslist.org.  I have used old tent trailers that were repurposed as motorcycle or utility trailers.  You might pick up an older tent trailer with a ruined tent pretty cheap (maybe even free!) and strip it down to make a utility trailer.

I have a camping trailer that started life as an Apache tent trailer.  Someone before me had completely gutted the little trailer to turn it into a utility trailer.  I actually got it for free on craigslist.  It needed a little work (including a LOT of cleaning and a new paint job to match our Jeep) and I upgraded from 10" wheels and tires to 12" for extra road clearance and an added safety margin.  One advantage to this particular trailer is that is has a clam-shell top that completely closes it during travel.  On one of our first trips we encountered very heavy rain.  So heavy there was about 2" of standing water on the freeway on a 6% grade!  Once out of the storm we pulled off the freeway and opened the clam-shell to access and mitigate the damage and were pleasantly surprised to find only 2 or 3 drops had gotten inside!  The clam-shell can even be locked for extra security.  It also gives us a convenience place to haul and store our camping equipment so it saves storage space in the garage and is always ready to go.

Packing your camping trailer may take some fore-thought and a little practice.    Basically you will want to load the heaviest components over the axle but you will need to maintain a certain amount of weight on the tongue to keep the connection secure and to avoid swaying.  Tongue weight for most small trailers should be in the range of 200-300 lbs but ultimately will depend on the overall trailer weight and how the load is distributed.   If there isn't enough tongue weight on the hitch (shoot for about 10% of the total loaded weight) the trailer may sway back and forth, kind of like the tail wagging the dog.  If there is too much weight on the tongue (more than about 15%) your vehicle may become less responsive, especially when turning and braking.  You may have to take your loaded trailer to a weigh station to find out how much it weighs.  You might be able to use a home bathroom scale to weigh the tongue, but use caution.  If it is too heavy for the scale you can damage the scale.  Trailer sway can be a serious problem.  My family and I have experienced at least two significant accidents due to excessive sway.  In one case the 28' toy hauler trailer  my son was pulling was too big and too heavy for the 1/2  ton pickup pulling it when it got caught in heavy crosswinds.  The other problem occurred when one of the bunk boards holding our sailboat broke, dumping the boat onto one of the fenders and crushing it down onto the tire so it created excessive drag on one side causing the trailer to sway.

Plastic tubs are a good way to pack and organize the things you put into your trailer.  Things like tents, sleeping bags, stoves, and camp chairs can usually be loaded in their own factory bags or even as is but cooking gear, provisions, linens, and clothing will be safer and easier to manage in plastic tubs.  I prefer translucent tubs so I can sort of see what is inside.  If you use opaque tubs you might want to label each one with what is inside to make it faster and easier to locate stuff in camp.

If you store your camping gear at home in your camping trailer be sure you remove perishable items between trips.  Putting perishables in a separate plastic tub makes this a lot easier.  Also make sure all your equipment is cleaned up before putting it away.  Left over food scraps will attract all kinds of pests, from microbes to raccoons and bears.  Microbes will turn scraps into nasty rotten messes and larger pests can do considerable damage to your gear and maybe even your trailer.  Bears have even been know to break into locked cars in search of food.  Animals in search of food may not be able to smell the difference between a few leftover crumbs and a whole sandwich, so cleaning everything up is critical!

Camping trailers can sometimes find additional uses in camp.  Once the gear has been unloaded you might put up a pipe frame to support a tarp over the top of an open trailer to provide a nice kind of pavilion to keep you out of the sun and rain and up off wet ground.  Some people even add sides or set up a free-standing tent in the trailer and use it as an off-the-ground shelter.   Not quite as complete as a tent trailer, but a step above sleeping on the ground.  You probably should not plan to cook in it, just as you normally would not cook in your tent, but it can make a safe and comfortable place to get out of the weather and for sleeping and to protect your personal gear.  Sometimes even an empty utility trailer makes a good playpen for younger children you might want to keep up off the ground and away from snakes and insects on the ground in many remote campgrounds.  You can install an awning on a box trailer to provide patio shade and protection from light rain in camp.  For an economy awning you might make your own using an inexpensive tarp and arms made from PVC pipe.  Similar canopies can be installed over the bed of open trailers.

If you use an open utility trailer you will want to tarp it to protect your gear against rain.  Having it tarped also provides a little bit of "security by obscurity" by keep your desirable items out of sight, reducing the chance of some passerby helping themselves to your property and helps minimize getting dust and dirt in your gear.  If you haven a enclosed trailer (like our little Apache trailer or a box trailer) you might even use the trailer for permanent storage at home.  Not only does that save space in your garage, shed, or basement, it keeps everything all packed and ready for your next trip.  Be sure you have a tongue lock or other security so it can't be easily stolen!

Some accessories you might want to add to your camping trailer might include a portable toilet (Portpotti) and a chuck box.  Portable toilets will give you comfortable sanitation where ever you go and a chuck box makes a good portable kitchen for use in camp.  A camping trailer may also give you room to carry extra tools you might need in camp or on the road.   I have a large, heavy-duty vinyl bag I use to carry firewood.  Firewood can also be carried in a box or even laid loose where ever there is extra room between items in your trailer, but having it in its own container keeps things cleaner and makes the wood easier to collect for your campfire.  Having a trailer may give you room to carry cots to make sleeping more comfortable.

Loading your trailer.  I talked a little bit a few paragraphs above about using plastic tubs to load and organize your camping trailer.  The other thing you will want to do is put the things you need to get to first when you get to camp where they are easily accessible.  Normally you will probably want get out your tent and camp chairs first, perhaps along with a canopy or dining fly for shade.  Sleeping bags should go into the tent once it is set up.  All your kitchen gear and supplies should be easy to get to because you may very well be more than ready for a good meal after your travels.  Lanterns and flashlights should be close at hand in case you arrive at your destination after dark.  Heavy tools usually find a good home somewhere near the bottom of things and often kind of out of the way since you probably won't be using them right away or often.   While placement for convenience is important, it should never override the need to load the trailer for correct balance and a proper tongue weight.d  Also make sure things are loaded so any shift during travel won't damage items or the trailer.

Used trailers can be a good option.  Few of us get to go camping as often as we would like and even personal utility trailers probably get little use so used trailers and likely to still have plenty of miles left in them.  Check out your local craigslist to look for bargains in your area.  Things to check will be tires, brakes (if so equipped), hitch, lights, safety chains, springs, an door/tailgate latches.  Tires will often look very good but may have ''aged out'', so check the date of manufacture.  Tires typically have a maximum usable life of around 6-10 years, depending on how they have been stored or protected.  If you are looking at box trailers, also look for any signs of leakage.  Check to make sure the floor is solid.  Used trailers might have been commercially made or homemade.  Homemade trailers can be very good trailers but you may want to pay special attention to how they are constructed.  A popular option for homemade utility trailers is to mount an old pick up bed on an axle.  The axle may be a trailer axle or an old car axle.  Old car axles are very sturdy but also add a lot of weight.  Commercial axles come in different weight ratings so make sure the axle is strong enough to handle the weight of your trailer and anything you plan to haul in it.  Most single axles are rated at 3500 lbs but you can find heavier duty models.  My custom made enclosed motorcycle trailer is on a single axle that has a 5500 lb rating.  You want to be sure whatever you buy will have the capacity you need (cubic feet of storage and weight rating) to handle whatever you need it to carry.  In most cases, almost any trailer is going to have more than enough capacity to haul all the camping equipment you need for the average family.  If you plan to haul ATVs or any other large, heavy pieces of equipment or have an unusually large family or regular camping group, you may need a larger trailer.  I once picked up an old 19'construction office trailer to haul camping equipment and dirt bikes.  It was big, ugly and heavy but it was cheap and it did the job.

Make sure the vehicle you use to tow your trailer is properly configured with a correct hitch for the trailer weight, has adequate power, tires, and suspension, and has appropriate connections for trailer lights and safety chains.  Trailer brakes may be required on heavier trailers, along with brake controllers on the tow vehicle.  Surge brakes are an alternative that provides self-contained brakes on moderate sized trailers.  Surge brakes use a special, articulated hitch on the tongue that pushes a rod into a brake master cylinder to apply the brakes on the trailer whenever the trailer pushes against the hitch as the tow vehicle slows or stops.

Small, light-weight trailers may or may not have to be licensed.  Some states required ALL trailers to be licensed, but some only require licenses on trailers over a certain loaded weight.  An unlicensed trailer may save you annual registration fees, but having it licensed may guard against theft or make it easier to identify and reclaim your trailer if it is stolen.  Normally if you are towing an unlicensed trailer with a licensed vehicle from the state of residence where the trailer license is not required, you will not need to have a license even a state where residents are required to license all trailers.  However, having the license might prevent you from getting pulled over from time to time when driving out of your state since local law enforcement might not know your home state regulations.  You may be able to defend against a traffic ticket but avoiding the potential problems in the first place might well be worth the modest cost of registering the trailer, even it isn't required in your home state.

Haul away!

Waiting for OHV Trails To Open

As the weather gets better it becomes increasingly tempting to hit the trails in our OHVs.  However, those who manage our off road riding areas may not agree with us yet.  You may still see some or maybe even a lot of seasonally closed trails for a while.  While it may be tempting to bypass the CLOSED signs and keep going, it definitely is NOT a good idea!  Doing so may subject you to expensive fines, poor riding conditions, damage to your equipment, and you may cause the trail to be permanently closed!  Often the trail within view of the CLOSED sign looks just fine, but further along there may be downed trees, washouts, or muddy sections that pose threats to your travel and your equipment as well as to the environment.  Negotiating around those obstacles can do irreparable damage to the environment an the trail.   As anxious as we are to get out and get riding, it will be better for everyone in the long run, if we pay attention to seasonal closures.  A little patience will be rewarded with better, safer riding conditions and less negative results to the environment and to continued access.

As an off road enthusiast you are, no doubt,  used to encountering CLOSED signs on some trails.   Trails may be seasonally or permanently closed.  Either way it is a frustration for OHV riders.  Often is is tempting to find a way around the CLOSED signs and blockades, especially if the trail looks OK for a ways beyond the closed sign.  As tempting as that is, is is NOT a good idea for at least a couple of good reasons.  In the first place, ignoring CLOSED signs will very likely result in further closures and more stringent ways of blocking access.   Secondly, seasonally closed trails are closed because they aren't suitable for use yet, usually due to residual snow or mud.  Riding trails too soon will result in unnecessary damage that may trigger permanent closure and often leads to difficult riding conditions that can damage your equipment or cause injuries to riders.  I personally know a rider who ignored closed signs on a trail with river crossings one spring and nearly lost his off road motorcycle when it was swept out from under him and carried way down stream.  Upon dragging it from the river it took hours of disassembling the engine to clear the hydrolock and dry it out enough to run again.  The river crossing looked normal, but the clean, clear water was actually a lot deeper and a lot faster than usual and the rangers knew it, hence the warning signs.

I once spent a weekend working with an off road group in California installing CLOSED signs on some quite popular trails around Randsburg, California.   Sound a little out of place for an OHV organization to install closed signs, but in reality the group was working to keep the riding area open.  By closing some trails and directing traffic to others we were able to avoid having then entire area shut down permanently!  It was a good example of OHV users and land use managers working together to appropriately manage the resources, quite a pleasant departure from the normal knee-jerk reaction of arbitrary closures often triggered by those who oppose off road activity.

CLOSED signs often don't make any sense at all, at least to OHV riders.  I once rode more than 7 miles down a sand wash on my dirt bike with sides too steep to ride out of before encountering a CLOSED sign in the middle of nowhere!   Made no sense whatever.  Frankly we weren't too worried about damaging the sand wash.   Even a light rain would erase months of OHV riding.  If it were actually in danger of being damaged by riding, why wasn't it closed at the beginning and not 7 miles down the wash?  I expect riders turning around at the sign and riding back out the way they came would have done more damage than riders continuing to the natural end of the wash.  I definitely saw mountain trails totally destroyed when the meandering boundaries of a new wilderness area cut off a number of looping trails, forcing riders to backtrack.  Before long the beautiful, pristine, single track trails that had been used successfully and frequently for more than 40 years became whooped-out, double-track roads due to excessive two-way traffic.  I must give credit to the forest service rangers who petitioned for California "green-sticker" funds to create new loops outside the wilderness area.  BTW, that same wilderness had 55,000 acres burned to a crisp in its first year or two of existence from a forest fire caused by a card-carrying Sierra clubber burning her toilet paper!  Why the heck was she doing that in the first place?  It must also be noted that there were exactly zero forest fires in more than 40 years the area was open to OHV riding.

CLOSED signs are a nemesis to all OHV riders.  But seasonal closures are there to protect and maintain our trails.  Please recognize that seasonal closures are normal and necessary and should always be respected.  When you encounter permanently close trails make note of them and contact the relevant land manager to see what, if anything, can be done.  I was told managers sometimes receive a mandate to close a certain number of trails or miles of trails and it essentially is done as a paper exercise without anyone inspecting the trails or making any attempt to determine if they are frequently used.  They just arbitrarily mark off a certain number of trails or miles of trails on a map to comply with the order, without ANY consideration of current use or environmental impact.  Sometimes you can work with land managers to reopen popular trails.  The best way to do so is to present as much evidence as possible regarding the popularity and safety of the trails.  I have seen trails in the bottom of sand washes closed to supposedly reduce erosion when a single rain does far more damage than years of off road use.  Sometimes pointing that out to land managers along with justifying the need for the trails to connect popular destinations is enough to get them to take a second look.  It is also helpful if you are prepared to trade some alternate routes  for closure that may be less desirable or may even be more environmentally sensitive.  When you come across seasonally closed trails, turn around!  You may want to contact the land manager to see if there is any trail work you could help with to speed opening of trails, but don't blithely go around or ride past CLOSED signs.  Doing so is likely to result in problems for you and your machine and for the future of the trail.

Ride respectfully!

OHV's in Snow or Ice

Maybe May is not the right time to be talking about running OHVs on snow and ice, but it does give is time to think it over and prepare for it for next winter.  And you may still encounter snow and ice at some elevations in the mountains for several weeks to come.  I am still seeing winter weather advisories with up to 12" of snow forecast above 4500' in the Cascades through May 29 here in Oregon.  If you've never ridden or driven on snow and ice, coming up on it unexpectedly on a road or trail can be scary and dangerous.

Most OHVs (with the exception of snowmobiles) are not typically intended or equipped for operation in snow or ice.  Most dirt bikes, ATVs, and side-by-sides are well designed for use on dirt and rocky trails.  However, because of the extended and remote locations some OHV outings take us to, you could run into to snow or ice on the roads and trails.  We usually avoid riding dirt bikes and even ATVs in winter conditions.  For the most part you want to avoid operating two wheeled OHVs in snow or on ice unless they have been specially equipped and you are properly trained and prepared.  4WD ATVs and side-by-sides do better in snow and ice, so much so that you can even get snowplows for them to clear your driveway.

Side-by-sides usually have 4WD and can operate fairly safely and successfully in a lot of conditions.  Having 4WD and usually having fairly aggressive tires gives them pretty good traction in snow but they can suffer many of the problems we have with highway vehicles on icy surfaces.  If the snow gets deep enough it is going to inhibit or stall our side-by-sides.   Snow deep enough can be impossible to push through and even fairly moderate amounts, like a foot or so, can be enough to cause the bodies of side-by-sides (and even other larger, heavier vehicles) to float enough to lose traction.  Like ATVs, side-by-sides can make good snowplows for your driveways.

ATVs, also commonly known as four wheelers, with 4WD are also quite agile in moderate amounts of snow.  But they will face insurmountable problems when the snow is deep enough to block their progress and are subject to the same problems on ice as any other vehicles.

Dirt bikes are the least capable of all motorized OHVs on snow and ice.  Folks who plan to ride through snow often equip their tires with steel spikes to improve traction.  However, even with spikes, dirt bikes are not all that well suited to riding in snow or on ice.  There are track conversions for dirt bikes that would make them work better in snow but they are quite expensive.

Snowmobiles are, of course, designed to operate on the snow and are usually very good at it.  However, even they can run into situations where the snow exceeds their capabilities.  Snowmobiles may be configured in different ways to maximize performance on trails or in powder snow.  When riding a snowmobile, make sure you know what yours is configured for.  Trail machines will not do well off-trail in deep powder snow.  

Tracked vehicles generally fair better in snow and ice than wheeled vehicles.   The Cushman Trackster, for example,  a popular tracked off road vehicle for a time was quite agile in snow.  They were manufactured and sold from about 1969 to 1974.   There are still a few around if you are lucky enough to find one.  These days you can also purchase track kits to fit almost any kind of OHV, from dirt bikes to Jeeps.

Some common dangers for any OHV when riding in the snow include deep drifts and hidden obstacles.  Hidden obstacle might include logs, stumps, disabled vehicles, rocks, and ditches, streams, ponds, or depressions filled with snow.  Snowmobiles are fairly heavy and will sink deep where skiers and snowboarders can skim over the surface.  Tracked vehicles can sometimes ride over the top of deep snow while wheeled vehicles tend to dig into deep snow.  Avoid riding or driving on ice over the top of lakes or rivers unless you are absolutely sure the ice is thick enough to support your vehicle.  Liquid water beneath ice will never be colder than 32 degrees and can partially melt and/or erode the ice until it can't support the weight of passing vehicles.  Ice should be at least 4" thick to walk on and 12-15" thick to drive on.

If you know you are going to be riding in snow make whatever preparations and  take whatever precautions you can.  Preparations might include special tires, spikes, or tire chains along with dressing for the weather and carrying extra supplies in case you get stuck or stranded.  Precautions will include paying special attention to where you are going to avoid drifts and hidden obstacles and driving cautiously and appropriately.   Sometimes there will be hints of hidden obstacles -- mounds of snow over logs and stumps or depressions over ditches or holes in the ground.  Sometimes those indicators might look like fun things to explore, but it would be a good idea to approach them initially with caution, perhaps even use a stick or something to probe them before attempt to run your vehicle over them.  Learn what you can about the trails you plan to traverse so you can anticipate and prepare for as many problems as you can.  Stream crossings or places a trail passes through rock slides can present particularly menacing problems if you hit them without warning.

If you suddenly get caught in a snow storm or a trail climbs up into a snowy area  slow down enough to be able to properly evaluate the trail ahead of you.  You don''t want to slow down too much because often you need to maintain a certain amount of momentum to keep going through snow.  Consider turning around and heading back to camp if you encounter unexpected snow on the trail.  There are very few rides, other than rescue missions, that might warrant forging ahead through dangerous snowy conditions.  Even rescue missions might need to be aborted if things get too bad or you will become another part of the problem instead of being part of the solution.  Turning back before it is too late may be the best thing you could ever do.  Staying out in cold conditions too long will risk injury or even death from exposure or hypothermia, especially if you are in or on an open vehicle.

If your vehicle gets stuck or breaks down you might find yourself stranded for a while.  It is always good to have some extra supplies to fall back on if this happens.  Some things to consider are blankets, extra clothes, matches or lighters, first aid supplies, food, and water.

Be sure to dress for the weather whenever you might be operating your OHV in snow or icy conditions.   Start by dressing in layers and be sure to protect your extremities -- hands, feet, ears and nose -- since they are most susceptible to the cold.  Stay dry!  You will lose body heat about 25 times faster if you are wet!  Warm gloves will be essential for operating your OHV but make sure they aren't TOO bulky as that can negatively affect your ability to control the vehicle.  Chemical hand warmer packs are fairly cheap and are easy to use to help keep your hands and feet warm.

Have fun and stay safe!

Driving an RV or Tow Vehicle in the Snow

 

Driving in snow might not seem too relevant this time of year (May), but here in the Cascades in Oregon we are still having winter weather with snow as low as 2000' and heavy snow above 4,000' through Memorial Day weekend. That means anyone heading over any of the mountain passes could still encounter heavy snow.

Most of us would probably prefer not to drive our RVs or pull our trailers in the snow. Usually we prefer warmer weather for all of our outdoor recreation but sometimes we might get caught in an unexpected snow storm.  Of course, folks involved with winter sports may choose to drive in the snow for snowmobiling, skiing, snowboarding, ice fishing, and snow camping.

Snow and the ice that often accompanies weather cold enough for snow reduces the grip our tires have on the road to near zero.  Just wet roads have only half the traction of dry ones.  Snow and ice can reduce the grip to near zero.  Even a  few inches of snow can make road surfaces so slippery we might have trouble even getting out of our own driveways!  Our vehicles are totally dependent on the tires gripping the road for acceleration, stopping, and turning --  when they loose grip, we loose control.

It should go without saying that you should never use your cruise control when driving on slick roads.   Many drivers enjoy the extra comfort and alleged fuel savings associated with using cruise control, but using it when driving on snow or ice is a recipe for disaster.  You need all the sensitivity to vehicle behavior and control you can get.  You don't want cruise control suddenly boosting acceleration and causing your wheels to spin or even causing you to totally lose control of the vehicle!

A second problem associated with driving in snow is getting stuck.  While deep drifts are possible on many roads, it doesn't take really deep snow to trap a vehicle.  I even had a 4WD SUV stuck in about 1 foot of snow in my driveway because it was enough that the pan under the body basically floated the SU until the tires couldn't get enough traction to move it.  You can encounter drifts even on well-plowed and well-traveled highways when the winds are strong enough.  I once encountered snow drifts 3' deep as part of a convoy driving down from a mountaintop military installation.  I was only 3rd behind the snow plow, but we were driving in a blizzard with lots of falling snow and high winds that created drifts faster than the plow could cut through them.  One of the keys to getting through deep snow is to maintain momentum.  You don't need to be moving fast but it helps if you can keep moving.  Avoid deep snow if you can.  Even with 4WD, which is pretty rare on motorhomes but can be found more often on vans, pickups, and SUVs, pushing through really deep snow can be difficult if not impossible.  

Tire chains can sometimes be enough to cut through snow.  Make sure they fit your vehicle and are properly installed to avoid serious damage to your vehicle.  Driving with tires chains requires you to drive slower.  There are debates about whether to put chains on the front or rear of 4WD vehicles.  My recommendation is to install them on both for best results in snow.  You only need them on the driving wheels on 2WD vehicles.  Front wheel drive vehicles usually get better traction than rear wheel drive and having tire chains on front wheel drive helps with steering as well as traction.  Tire chains can also help on thick ice, but have a limited affect on black ice and can sometimes actually reduce traction if you end up sliding on the chains when a rubber tire might provide a better grip.  Always take care when installing tire chains.  First, make sure your vehicle is safely out of traffic.  One way to install chains is to lay them out in front or back of the tires, drive on to them, then wrap them around the tires and secure them in place.  Sometimes the wheel wells do not provide enough clearance to get your hands in to handle the chains.  In that case you may have to jack up the vehicle to lift the body enough for you to install the chains.  Be sure to set the parking brake and chock the wheels before using the jack.  Close clearances  may preclude the use of tire chains as the chains will fly up a little off the tires when in use, even when fully tightened.  Make sure you have enough clearance!

In some cases local laws may allow you to use traction tires or 4WD in lieu of tire chains.  A few places in the United States may even require traction tires.  Be sure that you know the restrictions for each snowy location you drive in and that your vehicle is properly equipped.  Traction tires are not simply snow tires or all terrain tires.  They are specially constructed for maximum traction in snow and ice and are labeled.  Traction tires are labeled with a mountain/snowflake symbol like one of these molded into the sidewall:

                   

 

 Another major problem when driving is snow is visibility.  Falling and blowing snow can seriously inhibit visibility -- both what you can see and who can see you!  Sometimes it gets bad enough to create what they call a white out where it is literally impossible to even tell up from down, let alone distinguish any landmarks or read road signs.  When that happens your best bet is to find a safe place to pull over where you are out of traffic and wait for it to clear up enough to see where you are going.  If possible put out some road flares or other warning devices and leave your flashers on so approaching vehicles don't run into you.  Falling and blowing snow often sticks to road signs so they become unreadable.  In such cases it is really helpful if you have some kind of GPS device to aide you in navigation since you won't be able to read speed limits, curves, exits, or distance signs.  When falling or blowing snow makes hard for you to see the road it also makes hard for other drivers to see you.  Turn on you lights to make your vehicle a little it more visible through the snow.  Don't use your high beams in snow when it gets dark as the snow will reflect a lot of light back at you and make it even harder for you to see.  Using high beams to make your vehicle more visible during daylight hours is OK, but remember to dim your lights for approaching vehicles.  You want them to see your vehicle but you don't want your bright lights to impact their vision.

Windshield washers can help keep your windshield clear but you MUST use freeze-protected washer solution.   Even if it stays warm enough where the reservoir is located to keep it from freezing unprotected solution will freeze instantly when sprayed and spread on cold glass.  If it does get cold enough to freeze the reservoir it will probably crack and be destroyed.

Unless you grew up where you had snowy winters you probably don't have much experience driving on snowy or icey roads.   I am grateful that I did grow up in a  real 4-season climate and began learning snow driving techniques from my Dad long before I ever got behind the wheel.  If you have any opportunities to practice driving in the snow in controlled conditions, jump on it!  There really is no substitute for hands-on experience.  You don't want your first run in the snow to be somewhere where everything is unfamiliar and out of your control.  

Anytime you have reduced road friction or reduced visibility (rain, sleet, snow) you need to slow down and allow yourself more time for just about every maneuver.    Spinning tires will make it take longer to get your vehicle moving.  Slippery surfaces will make it much, much harder stopping your vehicle.  Slick roads and turn ordinary curves into potential slide outs and dangerous death traps.  Modern ABS braking systems are helpful.  Before ABS we learned to pump the brakes so the wheels had a chance to turn now and then instead of locking up.  Once the wheels are locked up you have NO steering!  That little patch of rubber on the road has no sense of direction and your vehicle will continue moving in whatever direction inertia takes it.

Driving in snow increases the probability of being stranded AND increase the consequences if you are.  Always wear warm coats and carry extra coats and/or blankets and winter gloves.  Bring along some high-energy snacks and plenty of drinking water.  Make sure your provisions are protected from freezing.  A good first aid kit should be something you always have in your vehicle.  Same with road flares.  Road flares can not only be used to warn other drivers so they don't run into your parked vehicle they can be used to help direct traffic and used to start fires if you need to get warm.

If stranded, stay in your vehicle if you can.  I have heard warnings that ordinary cars and trucks loose heat rapidly and you shouldn't stay in them if stranded in the snow.  But think about it:  are you better off in your vehicle out of the wind and snow or stumbling around outside in the weather?  In addition, your vehicle will usually at least start off a lot warmer than it is outside.  Snow covering your vehicle will also act as insulation, just like an Eskimo's igloo.  In fact 1 foot of snow provides as much insulation as the R-13 fiberglass insulation in the walls of your home.  Staying in your vehicle is especially helpful when there is more than one person as the enclosed space captures and allows you to share body heat, which you definitely could not do outside.  The human body creates about as much heat as a 100 watt incandescent light bulb.  To give you some idea how helpful that is, 100 watt bulbs are often used in residential pump houses to prevent well pumps from freezing.  If your vehicle is an an unsafe position you may need to abandon it in favor of a safer place to wait things out.  If you do, try to leave information in your vehicle about who you are, how many of you there are, what you are wearing, and where (at least what direction) you are planning to go.  Chances are rescuers will find your vehicle before they find you out in the storm and the more information they have the easier it will be for them to find you.

Dress for the weather whenever traveling in winter conditions.  Dress in layers, starting with thermal underwear and warm socks.  Be sure to include a waterproof or at least water resistant outer layer.  Most waterproof garments also offer pretty good wind protection.  Include warm gloves and a baclacava or face mask in your preparations, even if you don't need them while driving as you might need them if you get stranded or have to leave your vehicle.

Driving in snow is no picnic, not even in your daily driver, let alone a big rig of some kind.  But, if  you are out in the snow, you probably weren't planning on a picnic anyway!  If you have to drive in the snow, take steps to make sure both you and your vehicle are properly prepared for it.  Yes, people have perished in snow storms.  You want to do everything you can to avoid them and to be prepared to drive safely and survive in them if you have to.

S'now picnic out there!

Driving an RV or Tow Vehicle in the Rain

Driving in the rain isn't fun and can be especially nerve wracking if you are driving a larger, heavier vehicle than you normally drive, including RVs, truck campers, and vehicles towing trailers.  In the olden days of open touring cars or horse-drawn wagons and buggies, you could pretty much count on getting soaked when traveling in the rain.  Today's modern vehicles have eliminated that problem, giving us warm, dry, spaces in even the heaviest of downpours. But driving in the rain still has its threats.

First of all, wet pavement has a coefficient of friction (what makes your tires grip the road) 50% less than dry pavement.   The friction between the tires and the road is the limiting factor for how fast drag racers can go.  It is also the most important thing for handling any vehicle, any time.  Half the friction means your won't have as much control as you normally would.  Tires will spin easier when attempting to accelerate and stopping will take a lot more space and you are more likely to slide out on turns.  That means you need to slow down!  Also watch for puddles on the road.  They can grab your tires and alter the path of your vehicle if you aren't prepared for them.  They can also slow you down and will throw up a big rooster tail that can affect the vision of nearby drivers.  When your front wheels hit puddles they can throw muddy water up on to your own windshield, negatively affecting your vision too. It is really hard to manage where you are going when you can't see where you are going!

Rain and the spray kicked up by other vehicles can affect visibility, making it harder to see obstacles down the road.  It is not a bad idea to turn you headlights on when driving in the rain.  Water on the roads can make it harder to see lane markings and puddles can hide potholes with sharp edges that can damage tires.  Having good windshield wipers is a must.  Most wiper systems offer multiple speeds so select the one that gives you the best view of the road.  Sometimes a slower speed actually gives you a clearer view than running them at full speed all the time.  A lot of modern systems include variable delay timers that let you adjust the speed from very slow (for mist and very light rain) in increments to account for different amounts of precipitation.

Because RVs, truck campers, and vehicles towing trailers are bigger and heavier than our normal daily drivers we need to take that into consideration when driving in rain.  Make allowances for slower acceleration, lower turning speeds, and longer stopping distances.  Part of that simply means slowing down but it also means giving yourself more preparation time for each maneuver.  Realize that other vehicles behavior will also be affected by the road conditions so they will not be able to swerve, change lanes, slow, or stop as quickly as they normally would on dry pavement.  Give yourself plenty of room when pulling out into to traffic and begin stopping long before you come to a STOP light or sign.

One of the worst situations you might encounter is a light rain after a long dry period.  Oil and grease dripping from vehicles builds up on the road and a light rain sits on top of it making it very slick.  It also creates nasty spray that can foul your windshield and damage your wipers.  Heavy rain eventually washes away a lot of the spilled grease and oil.

Windshield washers are almost essential when driving in traffic.  The polluted road spray from tires often results in smears on you windshield and windshield washers can help remove it.  In cold weather you want freeze protected fluid.  In the summer you can use ordinary water but commercial windshield wiper solvent will do a better job cleaning road spray and even removing bugs.

Rain behaves differently in different locations.  You are probably pretty familiar with the quirks of rain in your neighborhood but it is a good idea to talk to someone who knows the area when you are driving in other places.  Sometimes a gas station attendant or a clerk in a convenience store can give you an idea of what to expect but rangers or law enforcement officers are usually more reliable sources.  Some places are subject to very hard, very local squalls that weather forecasts probably won't predict.  Mountains often create their own weather that can be very different from the general regional forecast.  Knowing what to expect can help you prepare for it.

Thunderstorms often generate especially heavy rain and sometimes hail.  You usually don''t have to be too worried about lightning hitting your vehicle, although high-profile vehicles like RVs and trailers are more likely to get hit than smaller cars.  Some people think your rubber tires protect you from lightning.  That is not true!  Lightning can arc across thousands of feet of air from cloud to ground.  The few inches of rubber between your vehicle and the road is nothing!  What does protect you is the steel frame of your vehicle which conducts a lightning strike around you and into the ground if it occurs.  Avoid touching any metal parts of your vehicle when driving in a thunderstorm.  Also, keep an eye on  tall trees, radio towers, and light posts near the highway as they can ''attract'' lightning and could fall into your path.  Trees hit by lightning can literally explode, throwing lots of debris that could injure you if you are unprotected.  Some folks like to seek shelter under a freeway over crossing during thunderstorms but always be sure you have sufficient clearance for tall vehicles and park out of traffic lanes.

Do not use your cruise control when driving in the rain.   It can misinterpret loss of traction and react in a way that cause you to use control.  You may have heard this before and not believed it.  This it NOT a "fake news" idea.  Check it out on Snopes.

Driving in rain at night further complicates things because the wet roads will reflect you headlights differently than dry roads, making it more difficult to recognize even familiar characteristics of the highway.  On top of that, your headlights may not seem to reach as far because the light is scattered differently by the wet surfaces.  There are night driving glasses that claim to improve your night vision, but you should be careful about using them to be sure they do make it easier for YOU to see at night.

Keep the shiney side up!

Nylon Webbing for OHVing, RVing, Camping, and Boating

Nylon webbing is useful for OHVing, Rving, camping, and boating.  It is light weight but very strong.  Typical 1" nylon webbing can be rated as high as 4,000 lbs.  It is available in a variety of colors so you can choose a color you like and can use different colors for different applications.  Different brands, sizes, and qualities of webbing may have different strength ratings so be sure to choose webbing that is sufficiently strong for your application.  1" webbing is often used for tie downs and load-securing ratchets straps.  You will also see heavier webbing used for tow straps, snatch straps, and heavy-duty ratchet straps.  I use 2 1/2" ratchet straps to secure my 25' sailboat to its trailer.

Most tie downs for OHVs are made of nylon webbing.   They may have simple friction catches or ratchets.  Simple catches are usually appropriate for dirt bikes and ATVs where ratchet straps may over-compress and damage the suspension while tied down if over tightened.  Tie downs come with "S" hooks on both ends to easily attach them to anchor points.  You can also loop the webbing around larger contact points and run the webbing back through the "S" hook if needed.  To avoid marring the surface of handle bars you can get "soft shackles" which are nylon web  that wraps around the handle bars and you attach the "S"hooks to loops on the end.  Some higher end tie downs come with their own built in soft shackles.  Strong 1" nylon straps, even your regular tie downs, make good tow straps for dirt bikes and most ATVs.  Side-by-sides may require a sturdier tow or snatch strap.  Dune buggies, Jeeps, and other larger 4x4s will definitely need an appropriately sized tow strap, tow rope, or tow chain.

Many RVs have roof racks to carry additional cargo.  Whenever you put something up on the roof of your RV you want to make sure it is secure.  Nylon ratchet straps are a good way to do this, just don't over-tighten them or you may damage the roof rack, the roof, or the load.  Here again, 1"straps are usually more than adequate.

Ratchet straps normally used to secure loads on pickups and utility trailers are usually 1"straps.  Pay attention to the rated strength when you purchase ratchet straps.  The rating takes into consideration all the components:  the nylon strap, the stitching, the hooks, and the hardware.  If you cut or break the strap you may able to repair it if you are comfortable doing the necessary sewing.  Choose replacement webbing that is at least as strong as the original and used appropriately sized UV resistant thread and a box stitch for webbing to secure the webbing to hooks and anchor points.  You can purchase bulk webbing online or at most fabric stores.  I get mine from a discount store for just ten cents foot, much less than even buying it direct from the factory!

A fairly new and convenient invention are self-storing ratchet straps.  As you might expect, they are a bit more expensive than regular ratchet straps but are spring loaded to take up the slack for you instead of having to pull it all through the hub of the ratchet.  I haven't used them yet, but the reviews I have seen have been pretty favorable.  I suspect the mechanisms will be slightly heavier than ordinary ratchet mechanisms and might get in the way in some tight applications.

Campers find nylons straps useful for securing tents, sleeping bags and back packs.  Many bags for tents and sleeping bags even come with nylon straps sewn to the bags for convenience but you can add your own or use free-standing nylon straps anytime.  You can buy straps with buckles or just tie them around your bundle.  Buckles are usually easier to fasten and unfasten and allow the straps to lie flat.

I use nylon webbing for sail ties on my sailboat.  I use different colors for different length sail ties to make it easier to quickly locate the right one for each position for securing the mainsail to the boom for temporary storage.  Sail ties an also be used to tame excess halyards and dock lines and the secure loads on deck and in the cabin and storage compartments.  Sail ties have a loop in one end, usually made with a twist to make it easier to get your hand in.  Normally they do not have an metal hooks because those could chafe and damage sails and sail covers.  You can thread the loose end through the loop to pull the strap tight around the sail, then tie it off securely.

As mentioned above, I use 2 1/2" ratchet straps to secure my 25' sailboat to its trailer.  They hold it down nicely and the wider straps spread the load to avoid excess pressure on point of contact with the fiberglass hull.  If you use ratchet straps to tie down your boat, make sure you don't crank them down too tight.  It is too easy to put enough tension on them to crack fiberglass or dent aluminum hulls.  I once noticed tiny stress cracks forming under the heavy duty straps on my sailboat.

As a volunteer firefighter I have roll of 1" nylon webbing in one of the pockets of my turn out gear.  Just about all firefighters do.  We can use the webbing to help move an injured or unconscious victim, to lift tools up a ladder, or even to help us make an emergency escape out a window.

Nylon webbing or straps is not usually used for guy lines for tents or awnings but it can be.   It is often stronger than most of the light weight ropes usually used in such applications.  It also has the advantage of being wider and more easily seen so you aren't as likely to run into them or trip over them.  You might find ratchet straps useful as guy lines on really large, heavy tents.  On occasion I have used ratchet straps to secure the awning on my motorcycle trailer.  The ratchet straps allow me to easily pull the awning taught.  If you do use ratchet straps in this way, take care not to over-tighten them as they can easily damage the awning or attachment hardware.  The only possible downside I see to using straps as guy lines is they might flutter in the wind, which can be annoying and the vibration can sometimes cause them to loosen.

Webbing used to used a lot on aluminum-framed camp chairs.   Most camp chairs these days are bag chairs with cloth seating and backrests but you can still find aluminum-framed chairs here and there.  The webbing strips are usually about 2-2 1/2" wide and made of some kind of fiberglass or plastic material, not usually the kind of heavy duty nylon you find in tie downs and ratchet straps.  If you have any of these old chairs you might still be able to get replacement web kits for them.  I have even seen kits on amazon.com. In a pinch you might be able to re-web your chairs with sturdy nylon webbing and they would probably last a very long time.  It would make the chairs a bit heavier and they might be warmer to sit in than the original webbing.  That might be nice in cold weather but less comfortable on most warm summer days in camp.

Good web to get caught in!